Life's Little Adventures

Our Photo Studio, Part XV

WHY WE HAD TO BE IN NEW YORK

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For our photo studio there was no other choice, at least not in America. Even though the city was rapidly sinking into bankruptcy at the time (mid-1970s), we had to hang on until conditions improved. There was a reason why the top publishing and broadcasting businesses were headquartered in New York and not in, say, Los Angeles.

Talent was that reason. Concentrated talent. Lots of it, in all related fields, and all within minutes of each other. Where else could we find such a selection of top models, artists, designers, stylists, and other skills practically next door? If you operated outside the city — or even outside of midtown Manhattan — you would have to pay traveling time, if you could get them to come at all. And then there was the vast number of available locations, to say nothing of professional photographic services such as overnight Kodachrome film processing or the easy rental of highly specialized equipment. Another plus was the number of qualified freelance assistants on call, ready to help when you needed them. And if your studio was not quite large enough for a particular job, there were several rental studios that were more than adequate.

The photo above was taken from the entrance to our studio on Fifth Avenue.

I learned about this early on, in the late 1960s, when we had a huge catalog job to do in Los Angeles, one that would take over a week of shooting. There was no way we could afford to bring New York models along with us, so we counted on the leading local model agency, and held "casting sessions" at the Beverly Hills Hotel. Now, the models there were certainly pretty and may have been very good at acting, but they were more "girl next door" than "high fashion." The resulting pictures, shot on location anywhere from Palm Springs to Topanga Canyon, were perfectly okay for the purpose, but nothing we would want in our portfolio.

Actually, at the peak of the mid-1970's fiscal crisis we momentarily entertained the thought of moving to nearby New Jersey, probably Jersey City or Hoboken. That idea quickly vanished, but I did briefly investigate the possibility of Long Island City, a part of Queens that is just across the East River from midtown Manhattan. It was only one stop from Grand Central on the number 7 subway, was relatively quiet and free of crime, and had plenty of old industrial buildings available for cheap rent. But then we realized that no one really wanted to travel beyond the area bordered by the East River, East 60th Street, Sixth Avenue, and East 14th Street. Unless, of course, it was to an exotic location for a few days.

Yes, there were plenty of reasons why our studio HAD to be in New York City's Manhattan. PLUS…there was also the sheer joy of living in such an exciting place, always filled with an almost electric energy.

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Gloucester, England

I've begun work on updating my travel guidebook Daytrips London for an eighth edition. Here's a sample chapter that's already been revised. Download it, print it out, and use it on your next trip to London.

*Meanwhile, the Seventh Edition of 2003 is still available on Amazon.com — and it really isn't all that out of date. Check the most recent reviews.

Trip 36

Gloucester

Always an appealing place, the ancient river port of Gloucester is even more enticing since its decaying docks were transformed into a modern tourist attraction. Once-decrepit warehouses and quays now house the marvelous National Waterways Museum, while other Victorian industrial structures became museums, cafés, antique shops, and a shopping centre. Equally attractive is the 11th-century cathedral with its delightfully cluttered interior, fan-vaulted cloisters, and Perpendicular tower. The surrounding neighborhood preserves a bygone charm that is among the most inviting in England.

Gloucester's Roman origins are obvious from its street layout. Glevum, as it was then called, was founded during the 1st century A.D. to protect the lowest practical crossing of the River Severn, and later used as a colony for retired Roman soldiers. During the Middle Ages it became an important place with frequent visits by royalty. Later a major industrial and shipping centre, Gloucester is today being discovered by tourists looking for new sites to explore. Its name, incidentally, is pronounced "Glo'ster."

GETTING THERE:

Trains depart London's Paddington Station several times in the morning for the two-hour ride to Gloucester [GCR]. Some are direct express trains, but others require a change at Swindon or Bristol Parkway. The route takes you through the scenic Cotswolds. CLICK HERE for current schedules, entering London Paddington [PAD] as your departure point.

By Car, Gloucester is 106 miles (170 km) west of London. Take the M1 to Junction 15 at Swindon, then the A419 to Cirencester and the A417 into Gloucester.

PRACTICALITIES:

Gloucester's major attractions are open daily, but lesser ones close on Sundays and/or Mondays. Boat trips around the harbor are offered from Easter to October. The local Tourist Information Centre, T: (01452) 396-572, is at 28 Southgate Street in the center of town. Gloucester is the county town of Gloucestershire, and has a population of about 114,000.

FOOD AND DRINK:

There are several inexpensive tourist restaurants and pubs near the cathedral and around the docks. Among your best choices are:

Cathedral Coffee Shop (in the cathedral cloisters) Light lunches and snacks. £

Dick Whittington's (100 Westgate St., opposite the folk museum) A popular old pub with a good selection of lunch dishes. T: (01452) 502-039. £

Good Food Coffee Shop (in the Gloucester Docks Antiques Centre) A convenient place for light lunches and teas. £

Ye Olde Fish Shoppe (8 Hare St., 2 blocks east of the cathedral) A fish-and-chips place that's been around for centuries. T: (01452) 522-502. X: Sun. £

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leave the Train Station (1) and follow the route on the map through a modern shopping district to St. Michael's Tower (2), a handsome 15th-century structure that was once part of a medieval church. It is located at The Cross, the meeting point of Gloucester's four main streets for nearly two millennia.

Stroll down Westgate Street and turn right into College Court, leading to:

*GLOUCESTER CATHEDRAL (3), T: (01452) 528-095. Open daily 7:30-6. Requested donation ££. Whispering Gallery £. Tower tours, Wed.-Fri. at 2:30; Sat. & holidays at 1:30 and 2:30. ££. Guided tours on request. Evensong Mon.-Fri. at 5:30, Sat. at 4, Sun. at 3. Book shop. Coffee shop.

Gloucester Cathedral (photo, above) is a wonderful accumulation of styles evolved over the centuries, filled to the brim with interesting little details. Begun as a Norman abbey in 1089, it was the site of Henry III's coronation in 1216 — the only time since the Conquest that an English monarch was crowned outside of Westminster. Its importance increased again in 1327 when the abbey accepted for burial the body of Edward II, which some other churches had refused. This made it a place of pilgrimage for supporters of the beleagured, deposed, and murdered monarch. It also brought in considerable wealth, largely spent on rebuilding much of the abbey in the new, rather elegant, Perpendicular style of the 15th century. Barely a century later, in 1541, the abbey gained cathedral status after Henry VIII settled his dispute with the Pope by declaring England Protestant. Inside, the Nave is still basically sturdy Norman although it sports an Early English ceiling of 1242. Americans might want to search along its north aisle for the memorial to John Stafford Smith (1750-1836), a minor English composer who wrote a tune that later became the Star-Spangled Banner. Exceptionally grandiose, the Choir was rebuilt by Edward III to honor his martyred father, whose lovely *Tomb graces the north side of the adjacent presbytery. While there, take a look at the intricately-carved wooden choirstalls and misericords of 1350. Beyond, at the far east end, the late-15th-century *Lady Chapel represents the final development of the Perpendicular style in all its splendor.

If the interior looks familiar even though you've never been here before, you may have seen it on the silver screen as a major setting for the Harry Potter movies, where it served as the Hogwarts School.

For many visitors, however, the cathedral's chief glory is its *Cloister, reached vis the north side. Dating from the mid-14th century, its renowned fan vaulting is the earliest known example of this art in the nation.

Leave the cathedral precincts via College Street and turn right onto Westgate. The Gloucester Folk Museum (4), housed in half-timbered Tudor buildings, presents an engrossing introduction to Gloucester's past. Exhibits here include re-created workshops (photo, right), artifacts of everyday life, a Victorian schoolroom, agricultural items, and the like. T: (01452) 396-868. Open Tues.-Sat. 10-5. Free. Shop.

Using the map as a guide, thread your way south toward the docks. Along the way you'll pass the Blackfriars Priory (5), founded in 1239 and disbanded in the mid-16th century after the Reformation. Later used as a house and workshop, parts of it eventually became a church and a school. The site, still the most complete Dominican friary in England, can only be seen from the outside, except on infrequent guided tours.

Continue on to the Soldiers of Gloucestershire Museum (6), whose entrance faces the docks just south of Commercial Road. Fans of military museums will enjoy a visit to this exhibition, which goes far beyond the usual old medals and moth-eaten uniforms. T: (01452) 522-682. Open Tues.-Sun., Bank Holiday Mon., and Mon. in June-Sept., 10-5. ££. Gift shop.

You are now in the heart of the historic *Gloucester Docks (photo, above), where restored sailing vessels and Victorian warehouses keep the city's maritime heritage very much alive. England's most inland port is located on the River Severn and is also connected directly with the sea by canal. Although shipping here dates from as early as Roman times, Gloucester really became an important port in 1580 when Queen Elizabeth I granted it permission to engage in foreign trade.

Amble along the waterfront to the Mariners' Chapel (7), built in 1849 to provide a place of worship for visiting sailors. Take a look inside, then stroll over to Gloucester's second great attraction, the:

*NATIONAL WATERWAYS MUSEUM (8), T: (01452) 318-200. Open April-Oct., daily 10-5; Nov.-March, daily 11-4. Closed Dec. 25-26, Jan. 1. Last admission at 4 or 3. £££, includes a boat trip. Café. Shop.

Occupying the largest warehouse of the docks, this thoroughly enjoyable museum (photo, left) brings two centuries of inland canal and river transportation to life once again with boats, working artifacts, interactive displays, and the like. Outside, you can board several of the vessels, take a short *cruise, watch demonstrations of bygone trades, ride a horse-drawn cart, or relax at a waterside café.

Cross the swing bridge and walk past the Merchant's Quay Shopping Centre, making your way across a lock gate to the Antiques Centre (9). Housed in a restored 19th-century warehouse, the centre gathers together some 70 small antique dealers in an almost Dickensian atmosphere. T: (01452 ( 529-716. Open daily. Free entry weekdays, small charge on weekends and holidays. Café.

The shortest route back to the train station takes you past the City Museum and Art Gallery (10), a venerable institution that tells the story of Gloucester from prehistoric to Victorian times. All kinds of things are displayed here, including dinosaur bones, a Roman archaeological site, medieval artifacts, period furniture, a living aquarium and beehive, and paintings. T: (01452) 396-131. Open Tues.-Sat. 10-5. £.

Text, photos, and map Copyright © 2003 by Earl Steinbicker. Updated to October 2007.

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More Journeys Along the Silk Road

THE MUSICAL ADVENTURE CONTINUES

Back in February of this year I added a post to this blog about cellist Yo-Yo Ma and his Silk Road Project. Now there's a new release, and it's a good one.

Recorded in April, 2007 in Chicago's historic Orchestra Hall with the Chicago Symphony Orchestra and a live audience, New Impossibilities further extends the scope of crossover music. Ancient tonalities and strange instruments from the Eastern world mix with modern techniques such as sampling from the Western classics, with a result that is sometimes astonishing. Bits of it can be heard for free online at Amazon.com and SilkRoadProject.org.

Founded in 1998 by the acclaimed cellist Yo-Yo Ma, this non-profit organization promotes multicultural collaboration among artists of the different cultures that line the ancient Silk Road. This network of trade routes ran, both by land and by sea, through southern Asia, limking Xi'an in China with the Mediterranean World. Dating from at least the time of the ancient Romans, it stretched over a length of some 8,000 kilometers (5,000) miles.

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RÜDESHEIM & BINGEN, GERMANY

My new guidebook, Daytrips in Germany's Rhineland, has been selling fairly well on Amazon, so I'd like to celebrate by offering another free chapter. This one is easy to reach from the Frankfurt area, and will be enjoyed by anyone who loves good wine.

That's the title page on the right. The little map on it shows all of the daytrip destinations.

Trip 5

Rüdesheim & Bingen

Wine lovers will rejoice in a trip to Rüdesheim, Germany's favorite wine village. The vintages have been flowing there for some two thousand years, ever since the Romans settled the area and began growing grapes. You can have a wonderful time sampling the result — some of Germany's (and the world's) best white wines — or in just exploring this delightful town and its surroundings. Whatever you do, you won't be alone. Rüdesheim is very popular with tourists from all over the globe, but you'll be seeing a whole lot more than most of them on this do-it-yourself daytrip.

The suggested tour begins in the neighboring village of Assmannshausen and includes a ride across the Rhine to Bingen for an encounter with Hildegard. If these don't interest you, it is entirely possible to spend the whole day in Rüdesheim and not get bored. Tipsy perhaps, but not bored.

GETTING THERE:

Trains depart Frankfurt's main station for Rüdesheim several times each morning, some from the main level and some from the lower S-Bahn level. In addition, there are trains and buses from Wiesbaden, which is easily reached by S-Bahn commuter trains. The direct trip takes about one hour. Return service operates until mid-evening. Be sure to check the schedules carefully, especially to determine whether the train you want also stops in Assmannshausen. If not, it is only a short distance by bus or taxi from Rüdesheim.

By Car, leave Frankfurt on the A-66 Autobahn and stay on it past Wiesbaden to Eltville. From there take the B-42 road into Rüdesheim, which is about 72 km (45 miles) west of Frankfurt.

PRACTICALITIES:

This trip should be taken between April and the end of October, when all of the attractions are open. Good weather is essential. The Tourist Information Office (Verkehrsamt) for Rüdesheim, T: (06722) 194-33, is at Geisenheimer Strasse 22, east of Hahnenstrasse. In Bingen, they are at Rheinkai 21, T: (06721) 184-205.

FOOD AND DRINK:

There is an extremely wide selection of places to eat and drink in the Rüdesheim area. A few are:

IN ASSMANNSHAUSEN:

Krone (Rheinuferstr. 10, near the train station) An old inn overlooking the Rhine; classic German cuisine. T: (06722) 40-30. €€€

Altes Haus (Lorcherstr. 8, a block northwest of the chair lift lower station) An historic 16th-century inn with good food. T: (06722) 403-50. €€

NEAR THE NIEDERWALD MONUMENT:

Jagdschloss Niederwald (near the top of the chair lift) A ducal hunting lodge featuring traditional wild game and other dishes. T: (06722) 710-60. X: Jan. to Feb. €€€

IN RÜDESHEIM:

Traube-Aumüller (Rheinstr. 6, near the Brömserburg Castle) A good choice in a touristy location. T: (06722) 91-40. X: Dec.-Feb. €€

Zum Bären (Schmidtstr. 24, a block east of the market place) Good-value international and regional cooking. T: (06722) 902-50. €€

Rüdesheimer Schloss (on the Drosselgasse) Local dishes and wines in an 18th-century tavern, with good-value lunches. T: (06722) 90-500. X: Jan.-Feb. € and €€

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Those making the complete tour should begin at the train station in Assmannshausen (1). Follow the map through this romantic old village, whose existence was first documented in 1108. Oddly enough, it is the home of Germany's best red wines. The narrow streets lead past several half-timbered houses and an interesting late-Gothic church to the chair lift (Seilbahn) (2). Purchase a combination ticket to Rüdesheim and be seated for a comfortable ride to the Niederwald. Along the way you will have superb high-level views across the Rhine Valley (photo, above).

Getting off at the top, walk around past the Jagdschloss (3), a former hunting lodge of the dukes of Nassau. It is now a very attractive castle-hotel and restaurant complete with another panoramic vista. From here take a leisurely stroll of about one-half mile or so along a forest road to the Niederwald Denkmal (4) (engraving from 1877, left), one of the most colossal monuments in Germany. A late-19th-century expression of overblown nationalism, its heroic figure of Germania symbolizes the unification of Germany in 1871 and is still deeply revered by the German people — although to foreign eyes it may seem somewhat amusing. The enormous bronze relief depicting military heros surrounding Kaiser Wilhelm I and Bismarck, incidentally, faces France. There is a fabulous view across the Rhine.

Take the nearby cable car (Seilbahn) down across the vineyards to its lower station (5) in Rüdesheim. Make a right on Oberstrasse to the Brömserhof (6), an aristocratic residence dating from 1542. The interior now features a curious exhibition known as Siegfried's Mechanical Music Cabinet, a collection of antique self-playing musical instruments. T: (06722) 492-17. Open March to Dec., daily 10-6. €€.

Nearby is the Mittelalterliches Foltermuseum (Medieval Torture Museum), where you can delight in the imaginative use of torture during the Inquisition and other dark periods of history. Oberstr. 49-51, T: (06722) 475-10. Open April-Nov., daily 10-6. €.

Rüdesheim is world-famous for the Drosselgasse (photo, above), a narrow lane that is usually jam-packed with hundreds of thirsty visitors. You may want to return here later to relax in one of its many colorful wine taverns. Until then, however, there are several other worthwhile sights.

Continue to the bottom and turn left on Rheinstrasse, passing the tourist office. The Marktplatz (Market Place) has an interesting 14th-century parish church. At the eastern end of the Rheinstrasse is the Adlerturm (Eagle's Tower) (7), built in the 15th century as part of the medieval defense fortifications. Return along the bank of the Rhine to the:

*BRÖMSERBURG (8), T: (06722) 23-48. Open mid-March through Oct., daily 10-6, last admission at 5:15. €.

Formerly a refuge for the archbishops of Mainz, this ancient castle (old engraving, above) built on late-Roman foundations between the 11th and 14th centuries now houses the *Rheingau Wine Museum, a must-see for any visitor to Rüdesheim. Displays here cover the entire scope of wine-making — and drinking — down through the ages.

A short stroll along the river brings you to the passenger ferry dock (Personenfähre) (9). From here you can take a quick boat ride to Bingen, just across the Rhine. This was once the home of Hildegard von Bingen, the 12th-century composer whose works have become so popular in recent years.

Leave the Bingen ferry landing (10) and follow the map past the tourist office up to Burg Klopp (11), a heavily rebuilt castle whose origins probably date from the Roman era. There is an exceptionally good view of the Rhine Valley from here. Head downhill on Salzstrasse and turn left on Hindenburganlage to the:

HISTORICAL MUSEUM — HILDEGARD VON BINGEN (12), T: (06721) 990-655. Open Tues.-Sun. 10-5. €.

Bingen's favorite personality, the visionary, scholar, abbess, healer, writer, and composer Hildegard von Bingen, lived from 1098 until 1179; a life filled with remarkable achievement. Her legacy is celebrated in this riverside museum, whose other attractions include a collection of 2nd-century Roman doctor's instruments and a survey of the entire Rhine Romantic epoch.

Return to the ferry dock and Rüdesheim. The train station is just across from the dock, but you will most likely want to enjoy a bit of wine sampling along the Drosselgasse before heading back to Frankfurt.

Text and maps copyright © 2007 by Earl Steinbicker. Color photos courtesy of the Rüdesheim Tourist Office.

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Daytrips in Germany's Rhineland, along with its companion books Daytrips Bavaria and another unfinished one on Berlin and Northern Germany, replace Daytrips Germany, which was putting on weight from all that Bratwurst und Bier. They are more compact and easier to carry, yet contain more useful information and are in general easier to use. They also have all-new digitally-created maps for each and every destination.

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Our Photo Studio, Part XIV

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WORKING ON A MOVIE SET FOR TWA

That logo on the right was the reason why my business partner and I traveled to Los Angeles for an unusual photographic assignment way back in the mid-1970s. TWA, at that time a really major airline, was just changing their graphics and the way their planes were decorated. They had already shot the new TV commercials on a soundstage at the historic Culver Studios using plywood-and-plastic mockups of the new plane interiors, and now it was our turn to do the still photography. We had never worked on a soundstage before, and very rarely in a union shop — so this was to be a whole new Little Adventure.

First, a lttle background about the Culver Studios. Located in the Culver City section of Los Angeles, just south of the Santa Monica Freeway, the historic studio complex first opened in 1918. In 1924 it became the De Mille Studios, home of those movie extravaganzas of Cecil B. De Mille, and in 1928 a merger changed the name to RKO. By 1935 the studios were known as Selznick International, producing such all-time favorite flicks as King Kong, A Star Is Born, Citizen Kane, and Gone With The Wind. Its Colonial-style administration building of 1919 (photo, left) is still a striking sight, easily visible from Washington Boulevard. The giant Sony Studios (formerly M-G-M), just south of Culver Studios, were once part of the same complex and now offer studio tours. Culver Studios themselves are rented out to film makers for independent productions. Some 14 sound stages are available, ranging in size from about 3,000 to 17,000 square feet.

At that time, one of the larger stages was filled with airliner interior mockups, used for both feature films and commercials. The newest of these was a plywood-and-plastic Boeing 747, painted in TWA's brand-new color scheme and with the new logo. What was really strange about it was when you climbed the forward spiral staircase that was supposed to lead to the upstairs lounge, you walked out onto a pile of wood. There was also a Lockheed L-1011 done up the same way. The interiors were actually quite convincing, as they had to be for still photography.

We flew to Los Angeles on a TWA L-1011 (photo above, with the new livery)along with the client and an art director, and checked into a Culver City hotel. Along with our cameras and lenses we also brought our own Balcar studio strobe lights as this is what was needed for the slow Kodachrome film we used — movies and TV employ tungsten lighting that would have been be useless to us. On a union set — which this most definitely was — we could not touch our own lights, let alone plug them in. This all had to be done through a hierarchy of union grips; we had to tell the foreman what we wanted done, then he had a grip do it. I could have done this myself with one hand in about two seconds. Oh well, it keeps people employed. How thankful I was that the still photography industry in New York was not unionized. At least we could handle our own cameras!

We had a dressing room set up for the models, who were local TWA employees recruited for their fleeting moment of fame. Once dressed, they were positioned inside the cabin mockup, and we had some wall segments removed to make way for the lights and cameras. This is the way they do it in Hollywood. The proceedings took all day, and then began the night work.

It seems that as of that day, only one actual TWA plane had been repainted with the new color scheme. And that one aircraft — a 747 — was landing that very night at Los Angeles LAX, but had to leave early the next morning. We could get pictures inside it that just could not be done in the sound stage mockup. But it was already dark, and they wanted sunlight streaming in the windows. How to work this?

Liberating a pile of white bedsheets from our hotel rooms, we headed down to the airport. I then climbed up on the wing of this 747 and, using gaffer tape, spread the bedsheets over the outside of the windows in the section over the wing. This would diffuse the bright strobe lights that I positioned outside on the wing. Then photography on the inside could begin. The first Polaroids (used to check the lighting and exposure) showed that everything was working just fine, and the finished photos actually looked like they were taken on a sunny day high above the clouds.

One last job, around 6 a.m., was a photo of people checking in at the terminal. After that, we went back to the hotel (with the purloined bedsheets) for a well-deserved snooze. And then back to New York.

A few days later this same plane made a visit to New York's JFK airport during daylight hours, so we rushed out there to do exterior photography on the tarmac. Within a week or so another plane, an L-1011, had been redecorated and was briefly available at Newark's EWR airport, so we finished the whole assignment there.

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INNSBRUCK MOUNTAIN WALK

Great Trips #158 — A One-Day Mountain Hike From Innsbruck

It's July 1979 and I'm in Innsbruck, Austria, gathering material for my "Great Trips / Europe" program. What I discovered was a relatively easy but thoroughly enjoyable 8-mile hike high in the Alps. This is what I wrote about it way back then:

NOTE: Although written 27 years ago, most of the information here is probably valid — still, if you intend to take this Little Adventure yourself you should check with the local tourist office first. I have deleted information regarding taking this daytrip from Munich, which was completely out of date.

The photos are in glorious Black & White because that's what I needed back then. I tried to add a little sepia to enhance them.

INTRODUCTION:

"Glorious mountains are what the Tirol is all about, and it is to them that you should head for a wonderful odyssey into this remarkable land. This daytrip from Innsbruck is a relatively easy ramble across a fantastic landscape far above the cares of the ordinary world, winding up in the splendid old village of Hall. Along the way you will pass some of the sites of the 1964 and 1976 Winter Olympics, ride a cable car to the top of a mountain, walk for over two hours along a gentle path with spectacular vistas, have lunch at a rustic alpine inn, descend on a chairlift, stroll through unspoiled countryside, cross the Inn River on a wooden covered bridge and, finally, explore one of the most charming little towns that Austria has to offer. If you love the out-of-doors but have been a bit hesitant about just marching off into the Alps by yourself, this pleasant excursion may well be the most memorable highlight of your visit to the Tirol."

TRANSPORTATION:

"From Innsbruck, begin at the main train station (Hauptbahnhof) (1) about 9 a.m. and follow the directions in THE TRIP section below."

[Travel information from Munich was no longer valid and was deleted]

TIME AND WEATHER:

"A clear, warm day between June and mid-October is essential for enjoyment of this trip. Since you will be walking at an altitude of nearly seven thousand feet, you can expect it to be a great deal cooler along the trail than it was in Innsbruck. You may, in fact, encounter a little leftover snow, even in August. This trip may be taken any day of the week, although the cable car can be a bit crowded on Sundays."

FOOD AND DRINK:

"Expect to find generous portions of inexpensive mountain type food at either of the alpine inns (4) and (5) near the end of your first walk. By this I mean meals of the pea soup, sausage, and beer variety; delicious and filling after the hike, but simply served in a rustic atmosphere.."

"At day's end, in the picturesque village of Hall, there are several nice outdoor cafés at which to relax before returning to Innsbruck."

WHAT TO BRING:

"A jacket or sweater is absolutely necessary on this trip, even if it is 90 degrees in the shade in Innsbruck. You won't be sorry if you bring both. A folding umbrella could be helpful should the weather change. Comfortable walking shoes are also required, although mountain boots are not necessary as the trail is well surfaced."

THE TRIP:

"From the front of Innsbruck's main train station (Hauptbahnhof) (1) take the "J" line bus, which departs every half-hour on the half and full hour, to the lower station of the Patscherkofel Cable Car (2) just above the resort village of Igls."

"You will pass various Olympic installations along the way, notably the ice stadium and ski jumps. Although this route may seem short on the map, it is very steep and not really suitable for walking. Once there, purchase a one-way ticket to the top of the mountain and board the large cable car. As it ascends the mountain  keep a lookout on the left for the spectacular Olympic bobsled run. Just beyond this, at Heiligwasser, you disembark and change to another cable car, which takes you to the Patscherkofel Berghotel (3), the starting point of our walk."

"Leaving the terrace of the hotel, at an altitude of 6,435 feet, follow the footpath marked Zirbenweg to the left in the direction of Tulfeinalm and Glungezer Hütte. This section of the trail is identified as Path #32, although the number changes later. The total walk to our first destination, Tulfeinalm (4), will take a little over two hours. Distances on alpine trails are commonly marked in terms of time rather than linear measurement; thus 2½ Std. (Stunde) refers to hours, not kilometers. A good walker will probably do better than the indicated time."

"The relatively level trail continues along the ridge of a high mountain with glorious panoramic vistas up and down the Inn Valley. Cows and goats, their clanging bells filling the air with music, can be seen grazing alongside the path. Presently you will reach a fork at which Path #32 is marked for Meissner Haus. Rather than take this, remain on the Zirbenweg, which bears left and is shown as Path #48. Gradually the trail enters a lovely pine forest still sheltering — in shaded spots — patches of last winter's snow, even in the height of summer."

"All along the walk you will meet other hikers who, if they are Austrian (as most are), will greet you with a friendly Grüss Gott, meaning "good day" in the local dialect. Just smile and try to repeat the phrase back to them."

"Still in the forest, a branch trail leads off to both sides. Avoid the one marked to Glungezer Hütte and stay with the Zirbenweg, following the signs to Tulfeinalm. From here on, the trail no longer has a number, Path #48 having turned down the mountain. Soon it crosses the tiny Lavierenbach brook. The first leg of our trip is almost over now. In only a few hundred yards you will come to the Tulfeinalm (4) where a rustic climber's hut offers hearty food at very reasonable prices. You can either eat here or at another similar place halfway down the mountain."

"On a small mound a few yards from the hut is the upper station of the Glungezer Sesselbahn. Buy a one-way ticket to Tulfes, seat yourself as gracefully as possible on the moving chairlift, and descend to the midway station, Halsmarter (5). The ride is surprisingly enjoyable and not in the least bit scary. Still, if you don't care for chairlifts, there is a dirt road paralleling it all the way down, which can easily be walked. Getting off at Halsmater, you will find another hut with good food and, delightfully, an outdoor café at which to relax and enjoy the sun-filled view."

"Continue on the second stage of the chairlift all the way to Tulfes (6). In the center of that village there is a bus stop (Haltstelle) from which you can get a ride to Hall-in-Tirol. A schedule is posted at the chairlift station. It is, however, far more interesting to walk the few miles. Follow the road downhill and, just before the first big bend to the left, turn right onto a path marked Fussweg nach Hall. This trail will again cross the main road. If you are really worn out by now take the paved road to the right. Otherwise, continue on the path, which goes a bit uphill, then down to the river. "

"Along the way the trail sometimes becomes a dirt road, even paved at points, goes through farms, forests, and crosses a fence. The first tiny settlement is called Gasteig. At the next one, Taschenlehen, be on the lookout for a path with a well-hidden sign marked for Hall. This is just before a short row of houses. It will lead you down under the Autobahn and onto a covered wooden bridge (7) crossing the Inn River."

"Emerging at the far end of this unusual span, you are now at Hall-in-Tirol, sometimes known as Solbad Hall, our final destination and one of the loveliest towns in Austria. Continue straight ahead on the Münzergasse to Burg Hasegg, an old castle from the Middle Ages. Opposite it, on the left, is the Münzerturm (8). Built around 1450, this brick tower has housed the Ducal Mint since 1477 and may be visited. It was here that the early Taler coins, forerunner of our dollars, were struck. In those days Hall was a very wealthy place, its prosperity derived from the salt mines and river navigation. It was also a notorious pleasure center for those wishing to escape the rigid life of Innsbruck."

"A short stroll beyond will take you to Unterer Stadtplatz. From here the Schweighofstiege steps lead to Eugenstrasse, at which you turn right to the Damenstift (9), a ladies' abbey founded in 1567. Walk through the Stiftsplatz and make a left onto Rosengasse. Just a few steps farther and you are in the marvelously picturesque Oberer Stadtplatz (10), a scene right out of a child's fairytale. The 13th-century parish church of St. Nikolaus, which dominates the square, is a visual fantasy. Opposite it is the 16th-century Town Hall (Rathaus), in front of which there is most conveniently placed an outdoor café, the perfect spot at which to end you day's ramblings."

"After exploring some of the narrow alleyways radiating from this gorgeous spot, head down the Langer Graben at the rear of the church and return to Unterer Stadtplatz. From here you can, if you wish, get a bus for the very short trip back to Innsbruck. If you would rather take the train, or if you are returning directly to Munich, follow the map to the train station (Bahnhof) (11), just a few blocks away."

Copyright © 1980 by Earl Steinbicker.

Please remember that this was written 27 years ago, before I was taught how to write by the editors at Hastings House. I apologize for any bad grammar and especially for the excessive use of adjectives. Some of the facts have no doubt changed over the years, so check first if you intend to take this daytrip yourself.

CLICK HERE for the whole Great Trips / Europe story.

Trier, Germany

To celebrate my newest guidebook, Daytrips in Germany's Rhineland, here is one entire chapter from the book — this one about a visit to Germany's Roman past in beautifully preserved Trier. Although written as a daytrip from Frankfurt, it can just easily be taken from Cologne or Düsseldorf, and much more easily from nearby Luxembourg City.

Daytrips in Germany's Rhineland, along with its companion books Daytrips Bavaria and another unfinished one on Berlin and Eastern/Northern Germany, replace Daytrips Germany, which was putting on weight from all that Bratwurst und Bier. They are more compact and easier to carry, yet contain more useful information and are in general easier to use. They also have all-new digitally-created maps for each and every destination.

Trip 7

*Trier

The greatest collection of Roman remains to be found anywhere north of the Alps is in Trier, which bills itself as Germany's oldest city. According to an ancient legend, this was founded around 2000 BC by Trebeta, son of Semiramis, the Queen of Assyria. Historians say otherwise, although arachaeological digs do reveal some trace of human habitation dating from that era. What is actually documented is that the city, then called August Treverorum, was established in 16 BC by the Roman emperor Augustus near the site of an earlier Celtic settlement.

Whatever its true age, Trier is certainly a fascinating place. Several of its Roman structures remain in use today, along with well-preserved buildings from just about every era since. For centuries this city was among the most important in Europe; at one time second only to Rome. Those days have long since ended, and Trier is now a relatively minor provincial place. Although it is quite some distance from Frankfurt, its attractions are so compelling that a journey is more than worthwhile.

GETTING THERE:

Trains of the IC class depart Frankfurt's main station at least hourly for Koblenz, where you change to a regular or ICE train to Trier. The total journey takes under three hours, and follows an exceptionally beautiful route along the Rhine and Mosel rivers. Return service operates until mid-evening.

By Car, leave Frankfurt on the A-66 Autobahn, then take the A-3 north past Limburg and head west on the A-48 to the Trier exit. The total distance is about 192 km (120 miles).

PRACTICALITIES:

Trier can be visited in any season, but note that a few attractions are closed on Mondays from November through March. The local Tourist Information Office, T: (0651) 978-080, is next to the Porta Nigra. Trier has a population of about 100,000.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Trier is heavily touristed, so it has plenty of restaurants and cafés. Some choices are:

Schlemmereule (Domfriedhof 1B, opposite the cathedral) Elegant gourmet dining in a contemporary setting, with superb wines. Reserve at T: (0651) 736-16. X: Tues. €€€+

Palais Kesselstatt (Liebfrauenstr. 10, across from the Liebfrauenkirche) An elegant wine restaurant in a Baroque setting, with light cuisine and garden dining available. T: (0651) 402-04. X: Mon., Jan. €€€

Zum Domstein (Hauptmarkt 5) Popular for its local specialties, with a superb collection of Mosel, Saar, and Ruwer wines. T: (0651) 744-90. €€

Weinstube Palais Kesselstatt (Liebfrauenstr. 10, across from the Liebfrauenkirche) Under the same management as the Palais Kesselstatt (above), this less-expensive bistro offers superb local cuisine, light meals, and very good wines. T: (0651) 411-78. X: Jan. €€

Walderdorff's Vinothek-Café-Club (Domfriedhof 1A, opposite the cathedral) Light lunches or full meals and great wines in a 19th-century palace. T: (0651) 9946-9210. € and €€

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leave the main train station (Hauptbahnhof) (1) and walk down Bahnhofstrasse and Theodor-Heuss-Allee to the ancient:

*PORTA NIGRA (2), T: (0651) 442-62. Open daily 9-6, closing earlier in winter. €. A joint ticket covering all of the Roman sites is available, €€.

This is the very symbol of Trier and one of the finest Roman relics anywhere. Built towards the end of the 2nd century AD as a massive fortified gate, it was converted into a church about 1040 and restored to its original appearance by Napoleon after 1804, when Trier was a part of France. No mortar was used in its construction; instead, the stone blocks are joined by iron clamps. The name, meaning black gate, derives from its present color — the result of centuries of pollution. Stroll through the inner courtyard, where unsuspecting enemies could be trapped from all sides.

Adjoining this is the Simeonstift, a former priests' residence from the 11th century that now houses the tourist office and the Städtisches Museum. The latter is devoted primarily to the history of Trier from prehistoric to modern times. T: (0651) 718-1459. €. Reopening in 2007.

Walk down Simeonstrasse past the very unusual Dreikönigenhaus at number 19, a nobleman's town residence dating from 1230. Note the strange location of its original entrance — at an upper level where it could only be reached by a retractable ladder, a safety feature in those days of unrest.

Continue on to the *Hauptmarkt (3) (photo at top of page). The stone cross in its center was erected in 958 as a symbol of the city's right to hold a market. Near this stands a lovely 16th-century fountain, while the entire busy scene is dominated by the Gothic Church of St. Gangolf. One particularly outstanding building is the Steipe, a colorful 15th-century banqueting hall that now houses a wonderful toy museum, which you can visit later. It was rebuilt after total destruction in World War II.

Now turn down Sternstrasse to the:

*CATHEDRAL (Dom) (4), T: (0651) 979-0790. Open daily 6:30-6, closing at 5:30 in winter. No visitors during services. Free.

This powerful fortress-like structure dates in part from Roman times. Over the centuries it was enlarged and rebuilt several times, the most visible changes having occurred during the 12th century. Its interior is an engaging mixture of Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque styles. Don't miss the Treasury (Domschatzmuseum) to the right of the high altar. Among its treasures are the 10th-century Altar of St. Andrew, one of the great masterpieces of the Ottonian period. The precious Holy Robe, supposedly worn by Christ at His trial, is only shown on very rare occasions. Treasury open Mon.-Sat. 10-5, and on Sun. and holidays 2-5, with shorter hours in winter. €.

Stroll through the cloisters, then visit the adjacent Liebfrauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) (5). The earliest Gothic church in Germany, it was built in the form of a Greek cross during the 13th century, and is noted for its elegant interior. Open daily 7:30-6, closing at 5:30 in winter. No visitors during services. Free.

Closeby, on Windstrasse, is the:

BISCHÖFLICHES MUSEUM (6), T: (0651) 710-5255. Open Mon.-Sat. 9-5, Sun. and holidays 1-5, with shorter hours and closed Mon. in winter. €.

On display here are some fascinating 4th-century ceiling paintings from the palace of the Roman emperor Constantine, discovered under the cathedral in 1945. There are also several medieval statues and other pieces of ancient religious art.

The enormous Palastaula (Basilika) (7), not far away, is the only surviving part of Constantine's great imperial palace. Once the throne room of the emperor, this colossal structure from about AD 310 now sees service as a Protestant church. Take a look inside, then walk around to the adjoining Palace of the Electors, and 18th-century rococo building presently used for government offices.

Paths through the palace gardens lead to the:

RHEINISCHES LANDESMUSEUM (Rhineland Museum) (8), T: (0651) 977-40. Open Mon.-Fri. 9:30-5, Sat. and Sun. 10:30-5. Closed Mon. in winter. €.

The Rhineland Museum features what is probably the best collection of Roman antiquities in Germany. Allow plenty of time to take it all in, from gold coins to mosaics to huge monuments. The displays also feature archaeological finds dating from prehistory as well as a rich selection of medieval art. There is an attractive museum café facing the gardens, a fine place for a light lunch.

From here you may want to make a short side trip to the:

AMPHITHEATER (9) (photo, above), T: (0651) 754-24. Open daily 9-6, closing earlier in winter. €. Combo ticket with other Roman sites available, €€.

Over 20,000 spectators once jammed the terraces of the oldest Roman structure in Trier to watch the gladiators fight, a form of spectacle that continued into the Christian era. Be sure to climb down into the cellars under the arena, and examine the side chambers that served as cages. Much of the stone work was exploited as a quarry during the Middle Ages, but enough remains to imagine yourself back in the 1st century AD, when it was built.

A stroll down Olewiger Strasse brings you to the:

*KAISERTHERMEN (Imperial Baths) (photo, above) (10), T: (0651) 730-10. Open daily 9-6, closing earlier in winter. €. Joint ticket with other sites available, €€.

Not much of this extraordinary 4th-century structure remains above ground, but the maze of passageways below is fantastic and well worth exploring. The baths were established by the emperor Constantine and were among the largest in the entire Roman Empire. Strangely enough, they were never completed nor used for their intended purpose.

If you're still bursting with energy, you might want to walk down to the Mosel River to see a few more sights, otherwise you can save some steps by following the map back into town via Neustrasse and Brückenstrasse.

The long route takes you first to the 2nd-century Barbarathermen (11) on Südallee. These Roman baths were used for several centuries and were once the largest in the world. What little remains of their past glory is in derelict condition and requires a vivid imagination to visualize, although the effect of really ruined ruins can be quite romantic. Take a look from the street before deciding to enter. Presently closed for major repairs.

The Römerbrücke (Roman Bridge) (12) is just a few steps away. Its stone piers were built in the 2nd century AD and still carry the weight of heavy traffic. The upper parts, originally of wood, were replaced with masonry arches during the 14th century, and again in the 18th. Walk down steps to a path along the Mosel River and follow it past the Zoll Kran (Customs Crane), dating from 1774, and the Alter Kran (Old Crane) (13), which goes all the way back to 1413. Both are in excellent condition, and the latter's treadmill can be seen by peeking in the window. The busy adjacent street, Krahnenufer, is difficult to cross here, so walk north to the traffic light and return to Krahnenstrasse, which you follow into town.

Of all the people born in Trier, the one who had the greatest impact on society was undoubtedly Karl Marx, who lived from 1818 until 1883. His birthplace at Brückenstrasse 10 is open as the:

KARL MARX HAUS (14) (photo, opposite), T: (0651) 970-680. Open April-Oct., daily 10-6; Nov.-March, Tues.-Sun. 10-1 and 2-5, Mon. 2-6. €.

Both the life of communism's prophet and the worldwide spread of socialism is traced in minute detail in this historic site. Perhaps you can find a clue, in the memorabilia or in the house itself, as to why Marx was so tragically mistaken in his understanding of how the world works. It's worth a try.

End your tour on a brighter note by returning via the 11th-century Frankenturm at Dietrichstrasse 5 — one of the oldest surviving dwellings in Germany — to the Hauptmarkt and paying a visit to the joyful:

SPIELZEUGMUSEUM (Toy Museum) (15), Hauptmarkt 14, T: (0651) 758-50. Open April-Dec., daily 11-6; Jan.-March, Tues.-Sun. 11-5. €.

Although some of the toys are antiques, the majority are of recent enough vintage to evoke childhood memories. Hidden away is a display of toys from the Third Reich, including a miniature tin Hitler riding in an open Mercedes! There is, of course, an entire world of miniature railways, lots of dolls, model cars, tin figures, and other delights.

Text and map copyright © 2007 by Earl Steinbicker. Photos courtesy of Trier Tourist Office.

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