Life's Little Adventures

Two Musical Views of America

Quite by chance I stumbled across an extraordinary musical adventure at the local Borders' three-day sale of any three CDs for a very favorable price. This was just a week ago, and I rushed out to grab some bargains.

One of the selections I made was truly amazing. Recorded last year (2006) by the BBC Symphony led by the composer, The Dharma at Big Sur and My Father Knew Charles Ives by John Adams is the kind of music you can listen to over and over again.

On opening the packaging around what was supposedly a single disc (and priced as such), I was surprised to find two discs — one for each of the compositions. This seemed silly as the total musical content was less than one hour, and both works could easily have fit on the same disc. On listening, however, it all made sense. These are two very different compositions, and need to be heard separately — even at different times.

John Adams has long been my second favorite among contemporary American composers of serious music (my first favorite remains Philip Glass), and I especially love Adams' 1985 opera Nixon in China as well as his whimsical Short Ride in a Fast Machine of 1986.

The first work, The Dharma at Big Sur, is a concerto featuring a stunning performance on the electric violin by Tracy Silverman, whose unusual tuning and soulful playing makes this an unforgettable masterpiece. Evoking the sun-and-surf lifestyle of the California coast, it sometimes breaks into an Indian raga with touches of modern jazz. Typical of Adams' work, it clearly recalls other American composers, in this case Lou Harrison and Terry Riley.

Moving from the Pacific to the East Coast, the second composition, My Father Knew Charles Ives, is an hommage to the Yankee composer of Three Places in New England. Ives' technique of musical collage is put to good use here, depicting in sound the small towns, lakes and mountains of the place where Adams was born and raised. Even if his father never actually knew Ives.

All in all, a most worthwhile purchase.

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My Army Experiences, Part XI

Previously on this thread...

One of the great things about being in the U.S. Army stationed in Japan in the 1950s was the opportunity for some really neat Little Adventures. I've already posted about our trips to Kyoto, Nikko, Mount Fuji, and a few other places. Here's another one:

It's August 1958 and I'm assigned to JCRC-J, an ASA communications unit located at North Camp Drake, just outside Tokyo. I've got a week off, and so does an old high school friend named Carl Rice who was stationed on the southern island of Kyushu. So we decided to meet at his post near Fukuoka and then travel by train and boat around both Kyushu and Shikoku.

I made the long journey from Tokyo to Fukuoka by train, and slept most of the way. There was, however, one startling sight. As we passed through Hiroshima I happened to look out to the right just in time to see the infamous A-Bomb Dome, the ruins of a former commercial building that was the only structure left partially standing after the devastating attack of August 6, 1945. Some 200,000 people, mostly civilians, perished on that fateful day.

Arriving at Fukuoka, I met Carl and we took off by train for a few days of exploring.

First stop was Nagasaki, which had been destroyed by an atomic bomb just thirteen years earlier — almost to the day. Surprisingly, much of this city had survived the devastation, protected by steep hills that reminded me of San Francisco. We stayed at an old inn in one of those narrow valleys, and visited several historic buildings, including the so-called "Madame Butterfly House." Built in 1863 for a British merchant named Thomas Glover, it is said to have inspired the setting for Puccini's tragic opera. The view of the harbor from here is breathtaking.

Another nearby site we visited was the Oura Catholic Church of 1865, the oldest Gothic building in the country. It was dedicated to the Christian martyrs who were crucified by the Japanese government in 1597 for their religious beliefs.

No trip to Nagasaki would be complete without a visit to Peace Park, which marks the very epicenter of the atomic bomb blast of August 9, 1945. A black column points up to the exact spot where the bomb detonated, while a rather hideous huge statue (photo, left) of a man pointing to the sky sends the same message. A nearby museum displays artifacts of the event, including a disturbing section of a bridge into whose concrete side entire bodies of humans were burned.

From Nagasaki we took an old steam train (photo, right) through the countryside to the hot-spring resort of Beppu on the Inland Sea. At that time steam trains were still very common throughout Japan, so we quickly learned to close the windows every time we came to a tunnel.

Arriving in Beppu, we checked into a ryokan inn that had its own hot springs and gardens. Getting into the restful spirit of the place, we quickly changed into yukatas (a type of lightweight cotton kimono) and replaced our socks and shoes with geta, a kind of wooden sandal that makes you two inches taller and raises you above the muddy footpath. It is very easy to trip while wearing these, but we eventually got the hang of it. After a stroll through the bubbling hot springs and an encounter with a fierce devil of a statue (photo, below), we had a sukiyaki dinner and a few drinks before taking baths in the healing waters and going to bed on futons.

The next day we boarded an overnight steamer for the voyage to Takamatsu on the island of Shikoku, which took us right through the heart of the legendary Inland Sea. A band played as the boat pulled away from the pier, and everyone waved sayonara to Kyushu. Feeling flush, we had opted for a first class cabin in lieu of the steerage hold, and spent several hours in the top deck lounge. With the dawn came some fabulous views, and a somewhat hungover me (photo, left) hanging onto the railing.

Arriving at Takamatsu in the morning, we checked into a hotel and made arangements for a guided bus tour of the sights. This went well as we visited the world-famous Ritsurin-Koen Gardens, begun in the 17th century as a summer retreat for a ruling clan. Another stop was at the 16th-century Tamanojo Castle (photo, below), home of that same clan.

Then we were taken to a hilltop plateau with nearly a hundred temples. I thought we would just visit one or two, but no — the tour kept going on and on, in Japanese of course. The extensive views across the Inland Sea made it all worthwhile depite the boredom of one temple after another. The photo below shows Carl having his picture taken by the tour guide, with others in the group standing around.

The next morning we took a ferry to the main island of Honshu, where Carl got a train back to Fukuoka and I headed north on another train to Tokyo.

NOTE: Some of the photos were taken on a dubious local film that faded badly after nearly fifty years of improper storage. I tried to repair the damage as best I could in Photoshop Elements, but they are still much less than perfect.

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HOORN AND THE HISTORIC TRIANGLE, HOLLAND

Taken directly from the 2006 edition of my guidebook Daytrips Holland, Belgium & Luxembourg, here's a most enjoyable Little Adventure that can easily be done from Amsterdam in a single day. Enjoy!

Additional sample chapters from the same book are also on this blog:

Bokrijk, Belgium

Zaanse Schans, Holland

Vianden, Luxembourg

And on my publisher's blog:

Volendam, Marken & Edam, Holland

Trip 4

Hoorn and the Historic Triangle

Here is an easy and thoroughly enjoyable daytrip that is just filled with sun and fun. You can travel by train or car to the historic port of Hoorn, then ride an ancient steam train through the lovely North Holland landscape to Medemblik, where you board an excursion boat to Enkhuizen. From there it's a short train ride back to Hoorn, a most delightful place to explore on foot.

Known as the "Historic Triangle" (Historische Driehoek), this rich argricultural area is loaded with memories of the former Zuider Zee, the arm of the North Sea that became the landlocked IJsselmeer. Many of its traditions may be probed at the Westfries Museum in Hoorn, while the magnificent and truly fascinating outdoor museum at Enkhuizen — described in the next chapter — brings the rural past to life. This later attraction could be included on this trip instead, by cutting both walking tours short and eliminating the museum in Hoorn.

First settled in the early 14th century, Hoorn was a major port for international trade until the late 17th century. It gave its name to Cape Horn, the southernmost tip of South America, which was discovered in 1616 by the locally-born navigator Willem Schouten. This was an important center of the Dutch East Indies Company, which brought about the prosperity so clearly seen in the town's many old buildings. Alas, as trade increased, so did the draught of the ships needed to carry the goods. The local waters are relatively shallow and subject to silting, and so the maritime trade gradually moved to deeper ports. One of the most attractive towns in Holland, Hoorn thrives today as a regional shopping and yachting center.

GETTING THERE:

Trains, marked for Enkhuizen, depart Amsterdam's Centraal Station at half-hour intervals for the 36-minute ride to Hoorn. Return service operates until late evening.

By Car, the most attractive route to follow from central Amsterdam is through the Ij Tunnel, then the N-10 and N-247 roads north by way of Edam to Hoorn. It may be slightly faster to take the A-7/E-22 motorway instead. In either case, the distance is about 40 km (25 miles).

PRACTICALITIES:

This trip may be taken on any day during July and August, on Tuesdays through Sundays during April-June and September-October, or on weekends during January-March and November-December. The "Historic Triangle" steam train and boat combination does not operate at other times. To avoid disappointment you should check first with the information office in Amsterdam's Centraal Station, or with the museum in Hoorn. Good weather is essential, as is an early start — around 8 a.m. at the latest.

The Tourist Office (VVV) in Hoorn, T: (072) 511-4284 (toll call), is at Veemarkt 4, three blocks south of the train station. Current schedules for the "Historic Triangle" combination can be had at T: (0229) 214-862.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Snacks and drinks are available on both the steam train and the boat. Restaurant choices for Enkhuizen are noted in the next chapter. Some good restaurants in Hoorn are:

Brasserie Bontekoe (Nieuwendam 1, near the Binnenhaven) Tavern cuisine in a 17th-century warehouse. T: (0229) 217-324. €€

De Waag (Rode Steen 8, near the Westfries Museum) Light lunches, plus full French and seafood specialties in the evenings. T: (0229) 215-195. € and €€

Azië (49 Veemarkt, a block south of the train station) Superb Chinese cuisine, with a good-value lunch. T: (0229) 218-555. € and €€

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Begin your tour at the Hoorn Train Station (1), where you cross a pedestrian bridge over the tracks to the:

*MUSEUM STOOMTRAM HOORN-MEDEMBLIK (Museum Steam Train) (2), T: (0229) 214-862. Operates daily July-Aug.; Tues.-Sun. in April-June and Sept.-Oct.; and on weekends in Jan.-March and Nov.-Dec. Closed on some holidays. Combination steam train and boat fare €€€€.

There is a great deal of intriguing activity here as locomotives and open-ended cars, some a century old, are shunted about. Buy a combination ticket for the *steam train and boat (combi stoomtram + boot) and study the printed schedule (in English) carefully. These rides are privately operated and are not covered by any railpass.

You will probably have time before departure to enjoy visiting the yards and special steam exhibitions. No one seems to mind your walking around on the tracks or even in the train sheds and machine shops. This is a very popular outing with Dutch families, so expect to run into hordes of little children.

Now board the ancient train and take delight in the passing countryside. The ride to Medemblik takes about one hour, and there is a primitive bar car to help you pass the time. Upon arrival at Medemblik Station (3), walk straight ahead down the main street to the harbor (4), where you will find the large excursion boat (probably the M.S. Friesland) that will take you to Enkhuizen. This delightful cruise on the IJsselmeer tales about 75 minutes. Again, snacks and drinks are available.

From the Enkhuizen Pier (5) it is only a few steps to the train station, where there are frequent trains back to Hoorn. While here, however, you might want to explore one or more of the outstanding attractions this town is famous for. You will find a full description of these, along with a map, in the next chapter. Remember that a stop here will most likely eliminate the possibility of a visit to the Westfries Museum in Hoorn.

Return to Hoorn by train and begin your walking tour of the old port town by following the map to the Town Hall (Stadhuis) (6), a lovely twin-gabled building from 1613. Continue down Nieustraat past the enormous Grote Kerk, a 19th-century church that has been strangely converted into shops. Kerkstraat leads to Rode Steen, the town's main square (photo, below). Named after the red stone that was once a place of public execution, this large open square is surrounded by exquisite old buildings.

One of these structures, the highly-ornate 17th-century Staten College (State Council) is now the home of the Westfries Museum (7). Step inside to witness the wealth this town once possessed. Sumptuous furniture, paintings, weapons, ship models, and anything else associated with the history of the region — they're all there, all displayed in elegant surroundings. T: (0229) 280-028. Open Mon.-Fri. 11-5, Sat.-Sun. 2-5. Museum Cards accepted. €.

On the opposite side of the square is the Waag, an especially nice weighhouse from 1609. Stroll down Grote Oost past the Oosterkerk, a Gothic church founded in 1450. Its stained-glass window from 1620 depicts a famous naval battle. Turn right at Slapershaven and amble along the picturesque harbor, busy with pleasure boats. The early-16th-century Hoofdtoren (8) was a part of the old fortifications and sports a delicate belfry from 1651. From here you may want to just wander around and soak up the delicious atmosphere before returning to the train station and Amsterdam.

ADDITIONAL ATTRACTION:

Hoorn has another nearby museum that might interest you. The Museum van de Twintigste Eeuw (Museum of the Twentieth Century) celebrates a hundred years of local life at Bierkade 4. T: (0229) 214-001. Open Tues.-Fri. 10-5, Sat.-Sun. noon-5. €.

Text, maps & B&W photos copyright © 2006 by Earl Steinbicker. Partially updated to 2007, with new color map drawn for this blog.

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Cell Phones and Me

I've been using cell phones since the mid-1990s, but long before that there were car phones that worked on an entirely different system. These were installed in vehicles and had a transmitter in the trunk and an external antenna at the end of a pole mounted on the rear fender. They had a range of about 40 miles from the land stations, which were situated in heavily-populated areas. The rental location vans that we used for photography outside of our New York studio had them, as did rental limos and executive cars. But they were a pain to use. First, you had to find a clear channel by trying all the buttons, then you tried to raise an operator who connected you to your party. This worked pretty well close to our Manhattan base, but less well in other areas. In the Hamptons we drove to the top of a hill near Southampton from which we could connect with the operator in New London, Connecticut. In New Hope, Pennsylvania, we had to go through an operator in Trenton, New Jersey. I never even tried to receive calls, although it could be done.

In the late 1970s we tried a hand-held portable unit. It worked, but was too expensive so we didn't make the purchase.

Then, in the 1980s the cellular system was introduced. This was an incredibly vast improvement, but by then I had left the photo business and no longer needed one all that badly. So I waited until the price came down, which it did.

Since the mid-1990s I have had several cell phones, with several service providers. But I was paying for a lot more capacity than I actually used or needed.

So in mid-2006 I decided to rationalize and find a service that fit my limited needs without waste. I only make or receive a few calls a week, so subscription services with monthly charges no longer made sense. What I needed was a pre-paid service without a contract or monthly charge. After investigating several service providers, I cancelled my Cingular account and got a Tracfone.

I've been quite happy with this as it always works well, and have used it in several different states for both local and long-distance calls without extra charges. In fact, for me it has proven to be quite economical. If you'd like to check this out, just click the TracFone logo near the bottom of the left-hand column. In full disclosure: If you purchase one of these phones through this link, I receive a small commission to help defray the cost of running this blog. Thank you.

DAYTRIPS BERLIN & NORTHERN GERMANY

Daytrips Berlin and Northern Germany is now available on Amazon.com. To celebrate, I'm posting here a sample chapter about a daytrip that's really easy to take as it's just outside Berlin on the commuter rail line. Much of this material was in my 2002 book, Daytrips Germany, but has been expanded and brought up to date.

Here it is:

Trip 7

*Sans Souci Park and the Royal Palaces

San Souci means "without a care," and that's how King Frederick II, known as the "Great," liked to live at his sumptuous complex of palaces on the outskirts of Potsdam, in what had been East Germany. The name refers not only to the most lavish of the palaces but also to the 716-acre park itself, which is fairly riddled with an intriguing assortment of highly unusual buildings.

Both the park and most of its palace structures were created for Frederick the Great, the enlightened despot who ruled Prussia from 1740 until his death in 1786. He selected this site as his summer residence in preference to the ancestral palaces in Berlin, following a precedent set by his ancestor Frederick William, the "Great Elector," who had built a palace in Potsdam as early as 1660. Frederick the Great's successors, however, showed little interest in Sans Souci until the middle of the 19th century, when Frederick William IV added several dreamily romantic buildings to complete the park's ensemble.

Sans Souci should be seen in its totality rather than as a visit to just one or two of the palaces, as all of its components work together beautifully to form one harmonious whole. Exploring it at a leisurely pace will take the better part of a day, so it is best not to attempt combining a visit here with one to adjacent Potsdam.

GETTING THERE:

S-Bahn commuter trains on route S-7 connect central Berlin with Potsdam-Stadt, the end of the S-Bahn line. From here you can take public bus number 695 to Sans Souci. A Berlin Welcome Card is valid for the enture trip. You could also walk from the station to Sans Souci, a distance of 1½ miles, following either route on the first map.

By Car, head to the southwest corner of Berlin on the A-115 Autobahn (Avus), then turn right at Wannsee on the Königstrasse into Potsdam. The total distance is about 24 km (15 miles). Follow the first map to Sans Souci.

PRACTICALITIES:

Sans Souci Park is open daily throughout the year, although most of its attractions are closed on Mondays. The local Tourist Information Office (Potsdam Tourismus Service), T: (0331) 275-580, is at Brandenburger Strasse 3, near the Brandenburger Tor in Potsdam. Sans Souci Park has its own visitor center, T: (0331) 969-4202, in the Historische Mühle windmill behind Schloss Sanssouci.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Two restaurants and cafés in the park are:

Mövenpick (at the Historische Mühle windmill behind Schloss Sanssouci) Creative German and Continental dishes, indoors, outdoors, or in the beer garden. T: (0331) 281-493. €, €€, and €€€.

Café im Drachenhaus (near the northwest corner of the park) An historic structure in the shape of a Chinese pagoda, with a full-service indoor café and outdoor tables. Light meals and drinks. T: (0331) 505-3808. € and €€.

Adjacent Potsdam town has many places to eat, see page 00.

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leave the Potsdam-Stadt S-Bahn Station (1) and take bus number 695 to the Main Entrance (3) of Sans Souci Park, on Schopenhauerstrasse. If you decide to walk the 1½-mile distance, refer to the map above. Two routes are shown, the lower goes past a few museums, the upper one through a shopping district. Both merge at the Brandenburger Tor (2), a triumphal archway dating from 1770, when Potsdam was both a royal seat and a garrison town. Enter the park and turn right at the elegantly terraced vineyards. There, rising in front of you, is:

*SCHLOSS SANSSOUCI (Sans Souci Palace) (4), T: (0331) 969-4190. Tours April-Oct., Tues.-Sun. 9-5; Nov.-March, Tues.-Sun. 9-4. €€. The tickets are for tours at specific times, so be sure to get yours early.

Sans Souci was completed in 1747 and is still regarded as one of the finest rococo structures in Germany. Its low, single-story design and massive central dome were based on a sketch by Frederick the Great himself. This philosopher-king, very much a product of the 18th-century Enlightenment, was deeply involved with the arts and was both a talented composer and a noted flutist. He was also a friend of the French writer Voltaire, who lived in the Potsdam Town Palace from 1750 until 1753. Frederick is best known, however, as a brilliant military commander who kept his nation at war throughout most of his long reign, usually victoriously. It was said that he transformed Prussia from "a country with an army into an army with a country."

Walk around the palace to its entrance, framed by a semi-circular colonnade, from which there is a superb view of fake ruins atop a distant hilltop. *Guided tours through the magnificent interior of Sans Souci are conducted a frequent intervals.

Just east of the palace, at a slightly lower level, is the Bildergalerie (Picture Gallery) (5) with its marvelous collection of Renaissance and Baroque paintings by such masters as Caravaggio, Rubens, and van Dyck. Completed in 1764, it is thought to be the first building ever erected for the sole purpose of housing paintings. Its brilliant rococo interior has been well restored, with the pictures hung in the original old-fashioned manner. T: (0331) 969-4181. Open mid-May through mid-October, Tues.-Sun. 10-5. €.

Return to the palace and continue on to the Neue Kammern (New Chambers) (6), just a few steps to the west. This was the palace's guest house since 1774. Open mid-May to mid-October, Tues.-Sun. 10-5; April to mid-May, weekends only 10-5. €.

Now follow the map through the Northern Gardens to the Orangerie (7), a late addition to the park that was completed in 1860 for King Frederick William IV. Designed to shelter delicate plants during the winter, this pseudo-Renaissance building is over a thousand feet long and contains apartments intended to house the king's sister and her husband, Czar Nicholas I, on their visits to Potsdam. You can climb the tower for a grand *view, and examine the 47 fake Raphael paintings in the hall. Open mid-May to mid-Oct., Tues.-Sun. 10-5. €.

A short stroll west through the woods brings you to the Drachenhaus (Dragon House) (8), a strange pagoda-like structure erected in 1770 as the royal winegrower's home. Happily, it now serves as a café, with additional tables outside. Just uphill from this is the restored Belvedere, a handsome classical structure from which you can enjoy sweeping views across the park. It also dates from 1770.

Turn south and follow a trail past the 18th-century Temple of Antiquity (9), a tiny imitation of the Pantheon in Rome. Just beyond it stands the grandiose:

*NEUES PALAIS (New Palace) (10), T: (0331) 969-4255. Open April-Oct., Sat.-Thurs. 9-5; Nov.-March, Sat.-Thurs. 9-4. €€.

The New Palace was built for Frederick the Great as a demonstration of Prussia's power and wealth after the end of the Seven Years War in 1763. Intended as a guest palace for visiting royalty, it was instead used as a summer residence by members of the royal family. You can visit the sumptuous interiors, including the fantastic Grotto Hall, on your own or on guided tours all year round. An illustrated guide brochure in English is available.

Walk east from the south wing to the Freundschaftstempel (Temple of Friendship) (11) of 1768, a circular Greek-style structure whose Corinthian columns bear reliefs of famous pairs of friends from ancient times. It is dedicated to the memory of Frederick the Great's favorite sister, Princess Wilhelmina of Bayreuth.

Continue on to Schloss Charlottenhof (12), a small palace in the style of an Italian villa. It was built in 1826 for the crown prince, who became King Frederick William IV in 1840 and later went insane when he realized that the age of feudalism was over, even in Prussia. The landscaped grounds around the palace are quite lovely, and the restrained interior may be seen on guided tours. T: (0331) 969-4228. Tours mid-May through mid-October, Tues.-Sun. 10-5. €€.

The path leads next to the nearby Römische Bäder (13), a highly romantic ensemble of fake Roman baths at the end of an artificial lake. The group includes the Italianate home of the court gardener, and is usually open during the same times as Schloss Charlottenhof.

Stroll across the tiny stream at the Meierei, an Italian-style dairy of 1832, and follow around to the incredible *Chinesisches Haus (Chinese House) (14), a dream-like circular structure from 1757. Its gilded walls support a tent-shaped roof whose cupola is topped with a golden mandarin sitting under a parasol. The gilded sculptures on the porch are fantastic, and inside there is a collection of Chinese and Japanese porcelains. T: (0331) 969-4222. Open mid-May through mid-October, Tues.-Sun. 10-5. €.

From here you can return to the park entrance or, better, wander around the park and discover some of its many hidden surprises.

Copyright © 2008 by Earl Steinbicker, with color added.

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Our Photo Studio, Part XVI

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OUR FIRST PHOTO ASSIGNMENT IN EUROPE

Summer, 1967. It's been 19 months since we started our very own studio in New York City, and both my business partner, Jim Houghton, and I really needed a little vacation after all the trials and tribulations of beginning a new venture. Luck was with us. Our sales rep, Art Aaron, brought in a nice little job to do in Germany, Italy, and Austria. It wouldn't pay much more than the cost of doing it, but business was — as always — slow at this time of year, and we needed the break. So we said yes.

The job was for Opera News Magazine, published by the Metropolitan Opera Guild of New York. They wanted us to capture in photos the very essence of three operas that were soon to be performed at the Met. These were: Hänsel und Gretel by Humperdinck, Roméo et Juliette by Gounod, and Luisa Miller by Verdi. What was wanted were atmospheric renderings of the appropriate settings, namely the Black Forest of Germany, Verona in Italy, and the Tyrol in Austria.

We began by flying Lufthansa to Stuttgart, where we rented a smallish Mercedes from Hertz and headed south into the heart of the Black Forest, Germany's renowned Schwarzwald. As soon as we encountered really dense woods we pulled over and took photos while daylight was still with us. After that we found an inn for the night, had dinner, and braved the forest spirits by taking scary pictures by flash in the dark. No evil witch appeared, and not a gingerbread house was in sight, but all-in-all it was full of the primeval realm of nature that so permeates this fantasy tale of little Hänsel and his sister Gretel lost in the woods.

The small text insert on the left is from the first page of the photo essay as it appeared in the December 23, 1967 issue, just in time for Christmas.

Above is another page of the four-page essay. After getting enough pictures we headed south to Baden-Baden for lunch, then a long drive to Interlaken in Switzerland, where we stayed the night. What do you do in Switzerland besides climb mountains? Why, look for watches. I bought a huge diving watch, which looked cool even though I don't dive.

The next day we drove to Luzern, where we again stayed the night before taking off for Italy. That route took us south to a point near Göschenen, where the car had to be put on a train to pass through the St. Gotthard Tunnel under the Alps. Emerging at Airola, we rejoined the E-9 highway past Lugano, Como, and into Milan. By this time it was quite late at night, so we took the first hotel we saw.

From Milan we took the Autostrada to Verona to capture scenes from Roméo et Juliette, which the town is full of even though the story is pure fiction. The photo above was a grab shot — we were seated at this café having a pizza as the lovers strolled by. Moral: Always keep your camera at the ready. Jim shot this one with his Leica M2 — small, silent, unobtrusive. Tri-X B&W film.

Even though Romeo and Juliette never actually existed, you can see the famous balcony, his house, and even her tomb. These shots are part of a four-page spread that appeared in the April 13, 1968 issue.

Next stop was Austria's Tyrol, the setting of Verdi's seldom-performed opera Luisa Miller. On the way we made a lunch stop in Venice, right on the Grand Canal, and then headed north to Cortina d'Ampezzo, high in the Italian Alps. After a good night's sleep at this ski resort, we continued into Austria around Lienz.

Rural scenes abounded as we headed towards the Grossglockner Pass, which climbs some 8,370 feet on its 29-mile sky-high crossing of the Alps. So we got our photos of alpine bliss, complete with cows. Unhappily, I can't find any of these and so can't post any here. Lunch was taken outdoors at the impossibly picturesque village of Heiligenblut, where we finished the assignment before continuing north for a little vacation.

Pressing on past Salzburg, we turned west on the Autobahn to Munich, where we got a room for the night and visited the Hofbräuhaus for some tasty beer. The next morning it was off to Stuttgart to return the car and get a flight to Paris. After a few days we met up with friends who were going to London, so we joined them and spent nearly a week in South Kensington and Chelsea. After that it was back to New York to develop the film and get back to work.

Ah, that was a nice assignment, if not a very profitable one.

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The Fun Of Blogging

TYPEPAD HAS MADE MY LIFE MORE INTERESTING

Back in the Spring of 2006 I read one of those "Dummies" books about blogging and decided that even a technically-challenged person like me could do it. Among the various service providers and plans described, Typepad seemed to be the best fit for me — both featurewise and costwise. So I signed up for a free trial.

Am I ever glad that I did!

Getting started was amazingly simple. They do all of the nasty tech stuff like HTML; all I do is type and use the mouse. It couldn't be easier. And when I did have a question that wasn't in their "Knowledge Base," I just typed it in and got an E-mail back the next day patiently explaining all.

On September 1st of this year they made this blog a "Featured Weblog," which resulted in thousands and thousands of more hits. As a result I have been reunited with some of my old army buddies from the 1950s, with business associates from the 60s, and with other old friends. It has also helped sell my books, which makes me happy.

Anyway, if I can do it anyone can. If you'd like to try, just go to near the bottom of the left-hand column and click on the red TypePad button for more information about their free trial.

Keep on bloggin'

Pennsylvania's Amish Countryside

A Daytrip Into The Distant Past

Usually I write about Daytrips in Europe, but this time I've selected one right here in my own backyard. Well, almost — it's about a 60-mile drive from my home. This is a really relaxing, laid-back tour through pastoral countryside, just an hour's journey from Philadelphia. Along the way you'll meet some truly fascinating folks and experience a bit of an unusual life style.

This self-guided trip was taken directly from the pages of my Daytrips Pennsylvania Dutch Country & Philadelphia guidebook, but updated with color added. It can also be done by bicycle. Don't forget to bring along a hearty appetite!

This is a cow

Heart of the Amish Countryside

Click on underlined items for links to their websites.

From the sublimely bucolic to the ridiculously tacky, this drive covers a wide, wide range of Pennsylvania Dutch Country experiences — all within a short distance of Lancaster, and completely feasible as a daytrip from Philadelphia. Along the way you'll encounter some of the most gorgeous scenery in the world, which more than compensates for the patches of shameless tourist traps near the beginning and end. Even scattered among these lurk some real gems that are just too good to miss.

Relax, take it easy, and drive slow. There are quite a few attractions along the way, but none as important as the setting itself. Why not pull over to the side of the road and take a walk along country lanes, drinking in the delicious sights and exchanging greetings with the friendly folks you'll meet? And for that matter, why stick to the suggested route? Driving down some of the side roads may lead to serendipitous discoveries — especially north of Route PA-340. For the physically ambitious, this trip makes a wonderful bicycle excursion. The terrain is rolling, with a few moderate hills, and for the most part traffic is light.

GETTING THERE:

The starting point of this 25-mile-long scenic drive is about 11 miles southeast of Lancaster, along US-30 just east of Paradise. From Philadelphia, take US-30 west for about 58 miles, expecting congestion in the last few miles around Gap and Kinzers.

PRACTICALITIES:

Good weather is absolutely essential for this largely outdoor trip. Weekdays are preferred, as you'll encounter less traffic in the tourist areas. Several of the best attractions are closed on Sundays, and many in the off-season. Check the individual listings, remembering that the drive itself is the main attraction.

You may well encounter more horse-drawn buggies and farm vehicles than cars, so drive slowly and very, very carefully. Passing on the narrow roads should be done with great caution, being careful not to "spook" the horses by blowing your horn.

Taking photographs of Amish people in which they can be recognized is a violation of their religious beliefs concerning graven images, and is highly offensive. Please respect their privacy and avoid trespassing on their land.

Regional information is available from the Pennsylvania Dutch Convention & Visitors Bureau, just east of Lancaster at 501 Greenfield Road (at US-30), Lancaster, PA 17601, T: 717-299-8901 or 1-800-723-8824.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Pennsylvania Dutch cuisine means hearty servings of "comfort" foods like your great-grandmother used to make, often in large restaurants with communal seating and frequently no menus. This "family style" dining is just that — you sit with strangers, pass around the overflowing dishes, take all you want of whatever you want, and generally have a good time. Some establishments offer buffet or à la carte service at private tables instead. Be sure to try the shoofly pie — "chust this once." Most restaurants do not serve liquor, and some are closed on Sundays. Among the better choices are:

Plain & Fancy Farm (PA-340, 2 miles east of Bird-in-Hand) Fixed-price PA-Dutch meals served family-style in a large barn. Reduced prices for children. No menu. Reservations suggested, T: 717-768-4400. $$

Good "N" Plenty (PA-896, a half-mile south of PA-340, at Smoketown) An enormous family-style restaurant with copious servings of PA-Dutch favorites. Reduced prices for children. T: 717-394-7111. X: Sun. $$

Miller's Smorgasbord (US-30, east of the intersection with N. Ronks Rd.) A fixed-price buffet with all you can eat. Special prices for children. In business since 1929. Reservations are accepted, T: 717-687-6621. $$

Bird-in-Hand Family Restaurant (PA-30 near Ronks Rd., Bird-in-Hand) PA-Dutch home cooking from both smorgasbord and menu, with a kid's buffet in the shape of Noah's Ark. X: Sun. T: 717-768-1500. $

For something different, you might try the restaurants in nearby Strasburg.

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Where better to begin your trip than in Paradise (1)? Head about a mile east along US-30 from this small town, and turn north on Belmont Road. Suddenly, in just yards, all of the traffic and tourist traps disappear and you're out in the real countryside. Soon you'll come to Paradise Bridge (2), a delightful covered bridge built in 1893, also known as the Leaman Place or Eshelman's Mill Bridge. Before crossing it, pull over to the side of the road, get out, and wait for the first horse-drawn buggy to come along. You won't have to wait long. What an idyllic scene!

Ahead lies the village of Intercourse (3), whose curious name raises a few eyebrows — especially as the road from it leads to Paradise. Actually, its name probably refers to its location at the junction of what in the early 19th century were two main highways. In the mid-1950s an attempt was made to change the name, and a decade later a pornorgraphy publisher attempted to use it as a mailing address. Fortunately, both schemes failed. Once a delightful Amish settlement, Intercourse is today overrun with quaint gifte shoppes, but it does have at least one place of compelling interest, namely:

THE OLD COUNTRY STORE, Route 340, Intercourse, PA 17534, T: 1-800-828-8218. Open Mon.-Sat., 9-5, remaining open until 6:30 from June-Oct. Closed Sun., New Year's, Thanksgiving, Christmas. Free. Book shop. Craft shop.

You might want to visit this historic country store for two reasons. First, to shop for genuine local items created by Amish and Mennonite craftspersons, and second to visit the free People's Place Quilt Museum on the second floor. Here you can examine changing exhibitions of unique Amish and Mennonite quilts, mostly dating from the 19th and early 20th centuries. The store itself was established in 1833 and rebuilt in 1881 after a disastrous fire. Be sure to stroll the outdoor Story Walk on the west side of the building, which explains local history.

Poke around the other shops of Intercourse, then head north on PA-772 (Newport Road), following the map and occasionally making diversions from it as the mood strikes you. Continue north on Hess Road, turning left on East Eby Road. Here, on the right, you'll come to an old Amish Cemetery (4), whose gravestones can be read by peering over the fence. Turn right (south) on Stumptown Road, which soon brings you to the utterly delightful little hamlet of Mascot (5).

Right at the intersection, a dam backs up the water of Mill Creek to provide water power for the local mill, as Amish lads fish in the stream. There's even a free place to park here, and not a commercial establishment in sight. But there are two marvelous free attractions:

*MASCOT ROLLER MILLS, Ronks, PA, T: 717-656-7616. Open May-Oct., Mon.-Sat. 9-4. Free.

Almost too picturesque to believe, the old Mascot Mill was built of stone in 1760 and continued operations until 1977. It was owned by three generations of the Ressler family from 1864 until the retirement of W. Franklin Ressler, who with his sister created the Ressler Mill Foundation to preserve this rural heritage for all time. A large enough endowment was left to pay for restoration, maintenance, and guides — which is why everything here is free. Stop in, watch the video, enjoy a demonstration of the working machinery, and examine the colorful old Mascot Post Office, unchanged since 1934.

The *Ressler Family House, next door to the mill, is equally intriguing, and is also open to visitors as part of the same foundation. It, too, is miraculously free. Everything here is as it was; simple, practical, and well-loved by the many generations of the same family. Be sure to take the tour as this is the kind of place that's all too seldom encountered.

Continue west on Stumptown Road, making a left onto Gibbons Road at an especially attractive farm, and another left onto Beechdale Road. In about a half-mile, turn left again on Church Road, and left yet again on Weavertown Road. Finally, a right onto North Harvest Road brings you to the Old Philadelphia Pike, PA-340. To the left is the:

AMISH EXPERIENCE THEATER & AMISH COUNTRY HOMESTEAD (6), 3121 Old Philadelphia Pike, Bird-in-Hand, PA 17505, T: 717-768-3600. Open daily April-Nov., weekends Dec.-March, closed Thanksgiving and Christmas. Theater open daily April-Dec., weekends Jan.-March. Homestead: Adults $7.95, children (4-12) $4.95. Theater: Adults $8.95, children (4-12) $5.95. Bargain combo tickets available.

Here visitors can discover how the Old Order Amish live today, without electricity but with surprising adaptations to contemporary life. The replica Homestead is authentically furnished, and affords a glimpse into a world you could hardly penetrate otherwise. The adjacent Amish Experience Theater tells the story of these remarkable people through the medium of a 30-minute multimedia production, intermingled with the drama of a modern Amish teenager's quest to discover himself.

Bird-in-Hand (7), which got its name from the sign of an early inn, is the next village. Just west of it is Abe's Buggy Rides (8), a concession that has been offering short two-mile rides in Amish horse-drawn buggies for over 35 years. T: 717-392-1794. Open Mon.-Sat., 8-dusk. Adults $10, children (3-12) $5.

Continue west, turning south on Oakview Road. Make a left onto US-30, a congested highway lined with outlet shops, fast-food eateries, strip malls, tourist traps of the worst kind, and — incredibly — on the right, the Mennonite Information Center (9), where you can learn more about the Amish and Mennonite ways of life. The center also offers a short film about the Mennonites, and tour guides who can lead you (in your car) to many out-of-the-way places not spoiled by commercialism. Adjacent to the center is the Hebrew Tabernacle Reproduction, an actual-size model of the ancient Tabernacle of Jerusalem described in the Bible, including the *Ark of the Covenant. 2209 Mill Stream Rd., Lancaster, PA 17602, T: 717-299-0954. Open April-Oct., Mon.-Sat. 8-5; Nov.-March, Mon.-Sat. 8:30-4:30. Center free, tabernacle tours: Adults $6, seniors $5.50, children (7-12) $3.50. Tour guides $36 for 2 hours, each additional hour $12, reservations T: 1-800-858-8320.

Down the road is the Dutch Wonderland Amusement Park (10), where the kids can have fun after all this sightseeing. Continuing east on US-30 brings you to a final attraction, the:

AMISH FARM AND HOUSE (11), 2395 Lincoln Hwy. East (US-30), Lancaster, PA 17602, T: 717-394-6185. Open daily all year, 8:30-6 in summer, until 5 in spring and fall, closing at 4 in winter. Closed Christmas. Adults $7.25, seniors (60+) $6.50, children (5-11) $4.75. Gift shop. Snacks.

You won't meet any Amish at this commercial attraction, but otherwise it's a quite authentic presentation of their rural ways of life. Visits begin with a lecture and tour of the 10-room farmhouse, built around 1805 and simply furnished in the Old-Order Amish tradition. You can then explore the 25-acre farm with its barn, windmill, waterwheels, spring house, chicken coop, corn crib, lime kiln, blacksmith shop, and more. Live animals and growing crops add to the interest, as does the small museum.

Copyright © 2000 by Earl Steinbicker, updated in 2007, slightly modified for web use and with color added.

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GAUDI'S BARCELONA

Great Trips #24 — A One-Day Walk Exploring The Work Of A Great Architect

Flash back to May 3, 1977. I've just arrived in Barcelona, Spain, to gather new material for my "Great Trips/Europe" program. The overnight train ride from Marseille was uneventful except for the change of track gauge at the Spanish border, and I was soon installed in Room 204 of the Hotel Montecarlo on the Rambla Estudios.

Something (perhaps a little weird) in me had long had a fascination for the strange architecture of Antonio Gaudi, whose best works are scattered around central Barcelona and can be experienced in a single day. This is what I wrote about it way back then:

NOTE: Although written over 30 years ago, most of the material is probably still valid — but if you intend to take this trip yourself you should check with the tourist office first concerning such matters as opening times. The photos are in glorious Black & White because that's what I needed at the time.

"INTRODUCTION:"

"Walk around in Barcelona and inevitably you will come across some very strange buildings, creations out of a surrealist dream combining what could be described as organic form realized in texture and color. These are the works of the great Catalan genius (some would say madman) Antonio Gaudi, the architect who first anticipated Art Nouveau and then surpassed it. Not often do we get a chance to explore the accomplishments of a major talent in a single day, but with Gaudi this is possible. Practically all of his important works are right here in Barcelona and can be seen on foot in the space of a few hours. The tour described will take you to his most outstanding structures, some of which can be visited in detail"

"To understand Gaudi, if that is possible at all, you must first understand that he was a Catalan, which is something apart from being a Spaniard. The people of Catalonia, of which Barcelona is the capital, have their own language, their own culture and history as well as a fierce sense of independence. Gaudi was a politically outspoken separationist who hardly ever ventured beyond Catalonia and, even though he understood it, refused to speak Spanish."

"Born Antonio Gaudi i Cornet on June 25 1852 of humble parentage in the southern Catalonian town of Reus, he worked his way through the Barcelona School of Architecture, getting his degree in 1878. By that time he was already well established as a result of an apprenticeship with several important builders. His showcase designs for the Paris Exposition of 1878 brought him to the attention of Eusebio Güell, a wealthy Catalonian industrialist who became his patron and financier. Through the Güell family he made the right social connections, which landed him choice commissions. In 1884 he began his major work, the Expiatory Temple of the Holy Family (Sagrada Familia), to which he devoted his entire later life and which remains unfinished today."

"From the talented social climber of his early years, Gaudi slowly became a religious zealot, abandoning most of the material wealth that was his for the asking. He was always well known and liked by the people of Barcelona, who regarded him as somewhat of a saint. Never married, he lived with his aged father (his mother, brother and sister having died during his youth) until the latter's death in 1907."

"Gaudi also became in some respects an eccentric. Once a dandy, he was careless in his dress and although he lived in a beautiful house (which today is a museum), he lived there without style. His frugality, vegetarianism and religious devotion set him apart from the society which made his work possible."

"In the end, it was his slovenly appearance which caused his death. On June 7th 1926, while walking to church, he was struck by a trolley car. Unrecognized and taken for an indigent, he was left on the street to die. At last removed to the paupers' ward of a hospital where friends finally found him, Gaudi's life was beyond saving. All Barcelona mourned the loss (his funeral procession was nearly a half-mile long) and later went through bouts of self-incrimination at the social injustice their attitudes had caused. A great talent was forever lost although his spirit lives on in the continuing construction of that supreme achievement, the Sagrada Familia."

"Today, people come to Barcelona from all over the world to experience the work of Antonio Gaudi. His structures transcend style as few buildings do. They incorporate the very spirit of human existence within their undulating and welcoming shapes. What we have to learn from him is not what buildings should necessarily look like, but how they might fit into the real needs of humans everywhere."

"TIME AND WEATHER:"

"Good weather would be very welcome on this mostly outdoor trip. The views from Parque Güell and the towers of the Sagrada Familia across the Mediterranean are spectacular when the air is clear. The Gaudi Museum is open on Sundays and Holidays only, from 12 noon to 2 PM and again from 4 PM to 7 PM. The museum is quite small and a visit there is not really necessary for the understanding of his work if you cannot make the trip on a Sunday."

"FOOD AND DRINK:"

"The best places for lunch are along the Ramblas and the upper part of the Paseo de Gracia. There is very little to choose from in the vicinity of the Sagrada Familia. At the Parque Güell there are two snackbars, one by the entrance and another with outdoor tables on the terrace near the famous benches."

"THE WALK:"

"Your walking tour begins at the foot of the Ramblas, an elegant tree-lined avenue leading from the harbor through the old part of Barcelona to the edge of the modern section. At the Conde del Asalto make a left a few yards to the Güell Palace (1), a townhouse Gaudi designed for his patron, Eusebio Güell, in 1886. The building now houses the Museum of Scenic Art (open weekdays except Mondays, 11 AM to 2 PM and 6 PM to 8 PM; Sundays and holidays from 11 AM to 2 PM only), which affords you the opportunity to explore its interior. Also located here is the office of the Amigos de Gaudi, an international organization devoted to further understanding of Gaudi's work. If you are interested enough, they may be able to help you in obtaining permission to visit some of Gaudi's buildings which are closed to the public, although most of these are located in remote parts of Barcelona and getting to them would require a car. While in the Güell Palace, note in particular the entrance vestibule with its demounting steps for guests arriving by carriage. From here a spiral ramp leads to stables in the basement."

"Now head back to the Ramblas, crossing it and continuing straight ahead to the Plaza Real (2). The four lamp posts in the square are among Gaudi's earliest work, dating from 1878, the year he graduated from architectural school."

"Returning to the Ramblas, turn right and follow it to the Plaza de Catalûna which you walk around until you get to the Paseo de Gracia. Continue along this spacious boulevard to the intersection Calle de Aragon. The second building in from the near left is the Casa Batilo (3), a more mature work which clearly shows Gaudi's style in a very developed stage. By the time he built this (1904), he was already at the height of public recognition and had no trouble getting his own way in æsthetic matters."

"A few blocks further along the Paseo de Gracia will bring you to the Casa Mila (4), located on the far right corner at the intersection of Calle de Provenza. Otherwise known as La Pedrera (the quarry) for its mountainous appearance, this apartment building is Gaudi's best known work aside from his great church. Like the previous Casa Batilo, it is a private building which is not open to casual visitors. You can, however, enter the courtyard and part of the basement in which are located several shops."

"Follow along the Calle de Provenza, crossing the Avenida del Generalisimo Franco, and continue to the Sagrada Familia (5) (Expiatory Temple of the Holy Family), Gaudi's greatest achievement and today virtually the symbol of Barcelona. Ground for this was broken in 1882 under a different architect. After a dispute, the work was turned over to the young Gaudi in 1884, who continued to work on it until his death in 1926. From about 1910 on, Gaudi's entire creative energies were directed to this one project."

"The surprising thing about the church, especially to one who has only seen photos of it, is the state of incompleteness. The towers we know from pictures (photo, right) are only those of the Nativity Transept; the front ones are to be much larger. Actually an active construction site, a visit here us just about the only opportunity we may ever have to witness the building of a vast cathedral. Forgotten for a time during Spain's political troubles during the thirties and heavily damaged by the Civil War in 1936, work on it has been going on at a brisk pace with the idea of completing the other (Passion) transept in time for the Universal Exhibition of 1982. Gaudi's plans are being followed although there is some question as to the legitimacy of doing so as he himself usually ignored his own blueprints and improvised on the spot."

"You can visit the crypt, in which Gaudi is buried, and climb to the top of the two completed towers for a marvelous view. There are scale models of the original plans and a bookstore selling various literature on Gaudi's work. Aside from that, there is the fascination of just watching the craftsmen at their ancient and tedious tasks. The church is open during normal working hours."

"From here it is a long walk, and an uphill one at that, to the next stop. This will take you through an interesting variety of neighborhoods, although if you're not quite up to the hike you can ride there vis subway or taxi. The directions for the subway (Metro) are as follow: Get on at the Sagrada Familia stop next to the church and ride Line V in the direction of Pubilla Casas to the second stop, Diagonal. Here change to Line III, which you ride to the end station, Lesseps. From there follow the map for the short uphill walk to Güell Park. If you are going to walk all the way from the church (3 km, uphill), the map indicates the best route."

"Parque Güell (6) was intended to be a model housing development. Again financed by his patron, Eusebio Güell, it failed to attract buyers and only two houses were ever built, neither designed by Gaudi. His genius lay in the concept and layout of the plots, roadways, pathways and in the brilliantly executed public areas. These include the two buildings at the entrance, the staircase (photo, above) and the covered market area above which is an open-air platform bounded by the famous serpentine bench, originally intended to be a Greek theater. The roadway winds around, clinging to the shape of the hillside while the pedestrian path takes an independent course, occasionally going under the road in a series of marvelous galleries."

"Gaudi's designs were by this time entirely organic. Having observed that there are no straight lines in nature, he provided none in the park. His ideas neither imitated nature nor stylized it; rather, they are completely human shapes which complement the natural world."

"The house in which Gaudi lived from 1906 until his death in 1926 is in the park and is now the Gaudi Museum (7), which is worth a visit if it is open. Since the late twenties Parque Güell has been a public park operated by the City of Barcelona."

"Now follow the map downhill past the Lesseps subway stop to the Casa Vincens (8) on the Calle Carolinas. This was one of his earliest works, begun in 1878. What we see was heavily modified in 1926 following Gaudi's advice. The style, still related in many ways to Spanish Mudejar (hybrid Moslem), anticipated Art Nouveau and provided inspiration for many other architects."

"The Gaudi trip is now completed. There are several other buildings, which are described in the literature available at the Sagrada Familia bookstore, but they are more of interest to dedicated Gaudi fans than to the general traveler. From here you can follow the Calle Mayor de Gracia and Paseo de Gracia downhill to the start of your trip, get on the subway at Fontana (Line III follows down the Ramblas) or take a taxi back to your hotel."

Copyright © 1978 by Earl Steinbicker.

WELL, THERE YOU HAVE IT. It wasn't until five years later when my editor at Hastings House taught me the difference between that and which, further and farther and how to use hyphens, that my grammar improved, at least a little. So please pardon the grammatical errors in the above post. My bad.

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