Great Trips #160: Odense, Denmark

Although I wrote this piece some 27 years ago, Odense remains a great daytrip option for anyone visiting Copenhagen. In fact, it is better now since the Great Belt Bridge was opened in 1997 — dramatically cutting the travel time to under an hour and a half. What follows is an exact copy of the original Great Trips / Europe text from 1980; if you take this trip today you should check the new, vastly improved transportation details, as well as costs and opening times. The attractions remain basically the same.

Odense, Denmark

A One-Day Trip From Copenhagen

Text, map, and photos copyright © 1980 Earl Steinbicker

"INTRODUCTION:"

"If being Hans Christian Andersen's birthplace was the only claim to fame that Odense possessed it would still be worth a visit. As it is, however, Denmark's third-largest city has enough other attractions to make for a very adventurous daytrip out of Copenhagen. First, there is the journey itself — getting there is half the fun, involving an hour's boat ride in each direction. Then there is Den Fynske Landsby, a fabulous reconstruction of an 18th-century rural village filled with old mills and picturesque farm houses. No child's fairytale world would be complete without a model railroad, and this Odense has too, in the form of the Danish State Railway Museum. In addition, there is a great cathedral, several good museums, colorful old neighborhoods, and excellent restaurants."

"Odense, whose name derives from that of the Nordic god of war, Odin, dates back to at least the 10th century. In 1086, King Canute of Denmark was murdered here by peasants angry at a tax increase. His canonization in 1101 as St. Canute has long made Odense a religious center. Its prosperity declined sharply following the Swedish War of 1658, and economic recovery did not begin until the next century when King Frederik IV built a castle in the center of town. The opening of a ship canal linking Odense with the sea in 1804 has created an industrial center that grew from a population of barely 6,000 in 1801 to nearly 200,000 today. Despite a bustling metropolitan atmosphere, prosperous Odense has kept much of its past intact, making it a thoroughly delightful city to explore on foot."

"TRANSPORTATION:"

"From Copenhagen's Central Station take either the 7:15, 8:00, or 8:15 AM train to Odense, getting there at 9:51, 10:55, or 10:51 AM respectively. The 7:15 and 8:15 departures do not operate on Sundays or holidays. All of these trains follow the Great Belt route and require advance reservations, even with a railpass. You should take care of this at least a day in advance; at the same time also make a return reservation. Since Odense is on the island of Funen (Fyn) the trains are put aboard a large ferry for the one-hour ride between Korsør and Nyborg. During this time you can go up to the main deck and have a snack or meal at either the cafeteria or dining salon while enjoying the scenic cruise."

"Return trains leave Odense at 5:16, 6:15, 7:22, 8:16, and 8:22 PM, getting to Copenhagen 2½ to 3 hours later. Those marked "L" (for Lyntog) are the fastest. It is important to reconfirm the schedules when you make your reservations at Copenhagen's station as they are subject to change."

"By car the distance is about 100 miles each way, takes almost 3½ hours, and requires advance ferry reservations which can be made at the Copenhagen station. Follow the A-1 (E-66) route, going by way of Roskilde, Ringsted, Halsskov, and Knudshoved, all the way to Odense, parking in the center of town."

"TIME AND WEATHER:"

"This trip is best made between April and September, when the days are long enough to see it all. From August 15 to the end of September the Funen Village closes at 5:30 PM. St. Canute's Cathedral is open every day except that on Sundays visits are limited to 11:30 AM - 12:30 PM. During the winter season most of the attractions have greatly curtailed hours, which should be checked at the tourist office aside of the Copenhagen station before deciding to go. Heavy traffic can be expected along the entire route on weekends in summer. Weather conditions are rather unpredictable, so it is a wise idea to bring along an umbrella. A little rain, should it fall, will not stop you from enjoying this trip."

"FOOD AND DRINK"

"You will find a wide selection of restaurants along the entire walking route, with a particularly charming one opposite the Andersen House (3) and another by the entrance to the Funen Village (8). Prices are moderate at both of these. For a faster or smaller lunch, the Magasin Department Store (11) offers a nice cafeteria. On the way back to Copenhagen you can have an excellent dinner in the main dining salon aboard the ferry if you hurry up to it as soon as the train is put on, getting there before the mob of hungry Danes."

Click on map to enlarge.

"THE WALK:"

"Arriving at the train station (1) in Odense, head directly to the Danish State Railway Museum (DSB Jernbanemuseum) (2), which is part of the station complex. Housed in a former locomotive shed, the collection of historic rolling stock dating back to the 1850s as well as the model train layout, reconstructed signal tower, and other railway paraphernalia, will be fascinating to anyone with the slightest interest in trains. An English-language description of each major display is available along with an illustrated catalog at nominal cost."

"Return to the station proper and exit from its front door. Crossing the main street, enter the park opposite and stroll through it until you come to the 18th-century castle of King Frederik IV, which today houses county offices. Now turn left and then right onto Nørregade. At Gravens make another left and cross the busy T.B. Thriges Gade, entering the pedestrians-only Hans Jensen Straede. You have stepped out of the present and into a heavily restored old part of town, once a poor neighborhood but now a rather chic place to live."

"At the corner of Bangs Boder is located the supposed Birthplace of Hans Christian Andersen (3), the number-one tourist attraction of Odense. In it and an adjoining building you will be treated to a vast collection of memorabilia and scenes of his remarkable life. Affectionately known to the Danes simply as H.C. Andersen, the national hero was born in 1805, the son of a cobbler and a washerwoman. The family later moved to even poorer lodgings on Munkemøllestraede (7), which you can also visit, where the young Andersen remained until he set out to seek his fortune in Copenhagen at the tender age of fourteen."

"Walk down Bangs Boder, through very charming surroundings, and turn left into Sortebrødre Torv, then right on Møtestraede to the Møntergården Museum (4) on Overgade. This grouping of fine old buildings dating from the 16th and 17th centuries today re-creates the interior settings of Odense as it was in the past. Stroll through its rooms and return to Overgade, following this to Paaskestraede. At number 19, on the corner, is the school that H.C. Andersen attended as a child."

"Turn left on Paaskestraede for one block, then right onto Adelgade, which leads to Albani Torv. Just beyond is Flak Haven, an open square in front of the Town Hall (Rådhus) (5). The front façade of this highly unusual structure was built in 1883 as a facsimile of the medieval Palazzo Pubblico in Siena; the rest of the building is an outstanding example of modern Danish architecture erected in 1955. If you have the time be sure to take a look at its sumptuous interior."

"Across the square is Denmark's finest Gothic church and the oldest building in Odense, St. Canute's Cathedral (Sankt Knuds Kirke) (6), built of brick in the 13th century. In its crypt you can view the bones of St. Canute himself in a glass-covered reliquary; the fatal skull fracture caused by a stone-throwing mob of angry farmers in 1086 being easily visible. The cathedral's greatest treasure, however, is the extremely intricate gold altarpiece carved by Claus Berg in 1526."

"Leaving the Cathedral, walk through Klingenberg and down Sct. Knuds Kirkestraede to Munkemøllestraede, onto which you turn left. At number 3-5 is Hans Christian Andersen's Childhood Home (7). The great writer of fairy tales lived in these humble rooms with his impoverished parents between the ages of 2 and 14. Many of the events that shaped his future destiny took place in this tiny abode, now a museum devoted to his formative years. It will only take a few minutes to see, but the experience can be quite touching."

"At this point you can choose whether to walk or take a bus to the next destination, the Funen Village. If you opt for the bus, return to Flak Haven and board the number 2 bus across the street from the Cathedral (6), telling the driver to let you off at Den Fynske Landsby. On the other hand, should you decide to walk the two miles, go down the street to Klosterbakken, turn right and follow it as it becomes Filosofgangen to the boat landing at Munke Mose. From here turn left into the park and follow the map all the way."

"Arriving at the Funen Village (Den Fynske Landsby) (8), one of the largest open-air museums in Denmark, pay the small admission charge and enter into an enchanting world of old-time rural life. An English-language booklet that completely describes each of the twenty-odd buildings is available at nominal cost. Your first destination should be straight ahead to the Water Mill and Wind Mill (cover photo) (9), behind which there is an amphitheater used for concerts, folk dancing, and - you guessed it - presentations of Andersen's stories."

"From here amble down the main road past all sorts of old farm structures, the interiors of which can be visited. At the end is a fascinating Brickworks (10) re-creating an early industry of Funen. All of the buildings in the village are authentic although they have been moved there from other parts of the island in an effort to save for posterity a heritage that was rapidly disappearing."

"Return, via the number 2 bus or on foot, to Flak Haven. Just beyond the large Magasin Department Store is an old commercial area (11) whose beautifully-restored streets are lined with interesting shops, restaurants, and outdoor cafés; the perfect place to end your visit. Walk down Pogestraede, turn right on Klaregade, and right again onto Vestergade. When you are finished looking about, follow Jernbanegade back to the train station for the departure for which you have made reservations."

Again, remember that this was written in 1980 and that some of the practical information has changed in the years since. This is especially true of transportation — now much, much faster if not as much fun.

 

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Comments

[lieben]

Interessante Informationen.

[Anna Elmhorst]

Great information. I am researching my ancestors and found that one of them lived in Odense in the mid 1700's at the military garrison (St. Hans). Do you recall seeing/hearing about the garrison when you were there?

[Earl Steinbicker]

No, I don't recall that. Thanks for your comment.