Life's Little Adventures

Converting Color Photos to Black & White

You may have wondered why some of my older travel pictures are in Black & White. It's because that's what I needed for my Great Trips / Europe project, and for my Daytrips books. Up until the late 1980s It was exceedingly difficult and expensive to convert color to B&W, and the results were often not very good. The cost of printing books in color was prohibitive for the limited distribution involved. On top of that, I loved B&W work ever since getting my own darkroom way back in 1946, and later working as an assistant to the famous photographer Richard Avedon.

So, up until 1989 I took most of my travel pictures on B&W film, using good old Tri-X at first and later switching to Ilford HP5 and Kodak T-MAX 400 when those became available. These I developed in D-76 and printed on Ilford Multigrade paper, all in the kitchen of my New York apartment after I left my studio business in 1979.

Conversions involved making a special monochrome negative from the color transparency, then making and overlaying masking films to tone down highlights and increase shadow details, and to cope with the contrast problem. This didn't always work well.

All that changed in 1989 when Kodak introduced its EKTAR color negative films, available in ISO speeds of 25, 125, and 1000. These emulsions were designed for professional use and yielded both high-quality color prints via either the "C" or dye transfer processes, as well as quite good B&W prints — the latter using Panalure panchromatic paper in total darkness. This meant that photographers could have their cake and eat it too. I began experimenting with this in the fall of 1989, and then used it as my exclusive color/B&W film until it was replaced by Kodak's Royal Gold line in 1994. Today, nearly all color negative (print) films can yield acceptable B&W images.

But why even bother? Both color slides or negatives and color prints are easily scanned into a computer program such as Adobe Photoshop and manipulated there. The latest CS3 version supposedly is very good at this and allows the greyscale monochrome density of each of the three primary and three secondary colors to be adjusted individually. I have not tried this; in fact I find that Photoshop Elements is good enough for my present needs, and is much easier to use.

And of course most photos today are shot with digital cameras to begin with.

Why Walking Tours?

According to the health "experts," I should have perished long ago. But I'm still here, 73 years young and still in excellent shape. And I've never been seriously sick.

When I was a kid, back in the 1930s and 40s, we used to play with lead toys, little balls of mercury, and fistfuls of fluffy asbestos. And we ate lots of candy, soda, and hot dogs. Not exactly "healthy" living. To make matters worse, I started smoking as a teenager and didn't stop until my mid-50s. And then there's all that lovely beer.

So why am I still around?

BECAUSE I WALK.

I have always walked a lot as a kid, from the Appalachian Trail to the streets of Manhattan. To and from school, even when high school was well over two miles each way. When I moved to New York City in 1952 I quickly discovered that walking was often the best way to get around.

So when I started writing travel guides in the mid-1970s it was only natural that I organize them around walking tours. Not only is walking a key to good health, not only is it economical, but it is also the very best way of experiencing a destination. At a walking pace you can absorb the ambiance of a place more completely than when traveling in a car, bus, or even on a bicycle. And you get to meet more people.

Walking not only keeps me healthy, it also makes me happy — as seen in this very recent drawing of me by my nephew's 6-year-old daughter Haley, which really captures my spirit. Picasso could not have done better.

All it takes is decent footwear, which needn't cost much. In this regard I am partial to walking sneakers by New Balance, mostly because I have very wide feet, and because they last practically forever.

The only other thing needed is, of course, a place to walk. Fortunately, my town in the suburbs of Philadelphia has some really good trails. The top photo shows one of these, on which I walk several miles nearly every day, usually keeping up a 4 mph pace. That's my fellow walker Charlie just ahead.

By the way, I do not advocate that we go back to playing with lead, mercury, or asbestos — or eating junk food, smoking or overindulgence in booze. These are of course very unhealthy and must be avoided. It's just that they didn't manage to kill me, largely because I made up for their destructiveness by daily exercise in walking.

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LUTHERSTADT WITTENBERG, GERMANY

Here's a free sample chapter from my new travel guidebook, Daytrips Berlin and Northern Germany — now available on Amazon.com.

Trip 11

Lutherstadt Wittenberg

Wittenberg is famous for only one thing, and that one thing draws visitors by the thousands from all over the world. From 1508 to 1546 it was the home of Martin Luther — the place where he taught, where he preached, where he defied the church, and where he allegedly nailed those 95 theses to the castle door. So much does his memory dominate this small town in Saxony-Anhalt that its official name is actually "Lutherstadt Wittenberg." Not even the atheistic communist regime of East Germany was able to eradicate his influence; in fact they more or less adopted him as a "hero of the common folk."

Wittenberg began as a fortress around 1130, and achieved town status in 1293. Its university was formed in 1502, becoming a center of European intellectual life during the time of Martin Luther and Philipp Melanchthon, but later merged with nearby Halle University as Wittenberg increasingly became a backwater place. Today, its historic core is a beautifully preserved bit of the past attracting a great many tourists and church groups, while the newer sections have been prospering since reunification.

GETTING THERE:

Trains of the IC and ICE classes leave Berlin's Hauptbahnhof Station at about one-hour intervals for the 40-minute run to Lutherstadt Wittenberg, with return until mid-evening. There are also slower (and cheaper) trains of the RE class that take a bit over an hour.

By Car, Wittenberg lies about 108 km (67 miles) southwest of Berlin. Take the A-9 (E-51) Autobahn south to Coswig, then the B-187 east. Park as close to Lutherhalle as possible.

PRACTICALITIES:

Some sights are closed on Mondays between November and March. The Tourist Information Office (Wittenberg-Information), T: (03491) 498-610, W: wittenberg.de, is at Schlossplatz 2. Wittenberg has a population of about 47,000.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Heavily touristed Wittenberg abounds in places to eat. Here are a few good choices:

Schlosskeller (Schlossplatz 1, behind the Schlosskirche) Dining in a cavernous cellar deep below the ancient castle, very atmospheric and tasty. T: (03491) 480-805. €€

Brauhaus (Markt 6, on the Market Place) Local dishes and freshly-brewed beer, indoors or out. T: (03491) 433-130. € and €€

Kartoffelhaus (Schlossstrasse 2, near the Market Place) Serves a variety of tasty potato-based dishes. T: (03491) 411-200. €

Click on map to enlarge

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Those coming by rail will begin at the train station (Bahnhof Lutherstadt Wittenberg) (1), located outside the town proper but within walking distance. Just beyond the railroad underpass, on the right, stands the so-called Luther Oak (Luthereiche) (2). Planted in the 19th century, it commemorates Luther's public burning of the Bull of Excommunication on December 10th, 1520. Although this action is historically documented, its exact location is not, so the tree may or may not be in the right place.

Stroll a few yards up Collegienstrasse to the:

*LUTHERHALLE (3), T: (03491) 420-30, W: martinluther.de. Open April-Oct., daily 9-6; Nov.-March, Tues.-Sun. 10-5. €.

This is the former Augustinian monastery (photo, above) in which Luther lived in 1508 and from 1511 until his death in 1546. Although the monastery was closed in 1522, Luther continued to reside here (with his wife and family since 1525), and in 1532 the building was given to him as a present. His heirs sold it to the University in 1546, who used it until 1816, after which it housed a theological training college and later a free school for the poor. Since 1883 the structure has been occupied by the Museum for the History of the Reformation (Reformationsgeschichtliches Museum). Luther's living quarters have been preserved, and there are numerous artifacts relating to him. Among the treasures are paintings by Lucas Cranach the Elder (portrait of Luther, above) and other artists of the German Renaissance, early Bibles, exhibits devoted to Luther's monumental translation of the Bible into German, and much documentary evidence of the turmoil he created.

A few yards up Collegienstrasse stands the:

MELANCHTHONHAUS (4), T: (03491) 403-279, W: martinluther.de. Open April-Oct., daily 9-6; Nov.-March, Tues.-Sun. 10-5. €.

Luther's closest colleague Philipp Melanchthon lived here from 1536 until his death in 1560. His actual family name was Schwarzend, but he adopted the Greek translation of that when he became a professor of Greek at Wittenberg in 1519. Melanchthon's influence on the Reformation was considerable as he was a far more tolerant man than Luther, able to reconcile differences between factions and bring about a measure of Christian unity. The house, given to him as a gift by the local ruler, is quite handsome and today houses both memorabilia of his life and a small museum of local history.

Follow the map to the Town Church (Stadtkirche St. Marien) (5) (photo, above), a triple-aisle Gothic structure begun around 1280 and modified over the years. Martin Luther preached here frequently, and it was here that he was wed and had his children baptized. His marriage, in 1525, was quite a daring act for a monk, especially as his bride was a nun. The most striking item in the church is its *Reformation Altarpiece, an unusual triptych by Lucas Cranach the Elder, the famous artist and friend of Luther. The center panel of this masterpiece depicts the Last Supper, with Jesus and the twelve apostles seated around a circular table, portraying Luther as the twelfth disciple. The bottom panel shows Luther preaching from a pulpit, with the crucified Christ in front of him.

Continue on to the nearby Market Place (Markt) (6) (photo, above), a large open square fronted by the impressive 16th-century Town Hall (Rathaus). Inside, there is an exhibition of 20th-century biblical art by such talents as Picasso, Chagal, and Beckmann. Open Tues.-Sun. 10-5. €.

In front of this are two large, canopied statues — one of Luther and the other of Melanchthon. Leading off from the south side, at Schlossstrasse 1, is the home of the artist Lucas Cranach the Elder, who was also the mayor of Wittenberg. Stroll down into the courtyard (7), where Cranach had his workshop and apothecary.

Schlossstrasse leads to the Palace Church (Schlosskirche) (8), one of the few remaining parts of the former palace complex. It was to the door here that Martin Luther supposedly nailed his famous 95 Theses condemning the doctrine of indulgences on October 31, 1517. Whether this actually happened is uncertain, but the original door has long been replaced with a bronze one inscribed with the full text in Latin. The church, the site of the first Protestant service ever, also contains the tombs of both Luther and Melanchthon. The church tower, 288 feet high, is topped with a crown-shaped dome under which is inscribed the opening words of that famous Lutheran hymn, A Mighty Fortress is Our God. It may be climbed for a good view, should you have the energy left. T: (03491) 402-585. Church open daily 10-6. Free. Tower open Mon.-Fri., noon-4; weekends 10-5. €.

Behind the Palace Church stand what remains of the once-great palace, built at the beginning of the 16th century. In its courtyard is another attraction, the Schlosskeller, a colorful cellar restaurant where you can stop for a drink or a meal before heading back to the station.

Copyright © 2008 by Earl Steinbicker.

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Great Trips #160: Odense, Denmark

Although I wrote this piece some 27 years ago, Odense remains a great daytrip option for anyone visiting Copenhagen. In fact, it is better now since the Great Belt Bridge was opened in 1997 — dramatically cutting the travel time to under an hour and a half. What follows is an exact copy of the original Great Trips / Europe text from 1980; if you take this trip today you should check the new, vastly improved transportation details, as well as costs and opening times. The attractions remain basically the same.

Odense, Denmark

A One-Day Trip From Copenhagen

Text, map, and photos copyright © 1980 Earl Steinbicker

"INTRODUCTION:"

"If being Hans Christian Andersen's birthplace was the only claim to fame that Odense possessed it would still be worth a visit. As it is, however, Denmark's third-largest city has enough other attractions to make for a very adventurous daytrip out of Copenhagen. First, there is the journey itself — getting there is half the fun, involving an hour's boat ride in each direction. Then there is Den Fynske Landsby, a fabulous reconstruction of an 18th-century rural village filled with old mills and picturesque farm houses. No child's fairytale world would be complete without a model railroad, and this Odense has too, in the form of the Danish State Railway Museum. In addition, there is a great cathedral, several good museums, colorful old neighborhoods, and excellent restaurants."

"Odense, whose name derives from that of the Nordic god of war, Odin, dates back to at least the 10th century. In 1086, King Canute of Denmark was murdered here by peasants angry at a tax increase. His canonization in 1101 as St. Canute has long made Odense a religious center. Its prosperity declined sharply following the Swedish War of 1658, and economic recovery did not begin until the next century when King Frederik IV built a castle in the center of town. The opening of a ship canal linking Odense with the sea in 1804 has created an industrial center that grew from a population of barely 6,000 in 1801 to nearly 200,000 today. Despite a bustling metropolitan atmosphere, prosperous Odense has kept much of its past intact, making it a thoroughly delightful city to explore on foot."

"TRANSPORTATION:"

"From Copenhagen's Central Station take either the 7:15, 8:00, or 8:15 AM train to Odense, getting there at 9:51, 10:55, or 10:51 AM respectively. The 7:15 and 8:15 departures do not operate on Sundays or holidays. All of these trains follow the Great Belt route and require advance reservations, even with a railpass. You should take care of this at least a day in advance; at the same time also make a return reservation. Since Odense is on the island of Funen (Fyn) the trains are put aboard a large ferry for the one-hour ride between Korsør and Nyborg. During this time you can go up to the main deck and have a snack or meal at either the cafeteria or dining salon while enjoying the scenic cruise."

"Return trains leave Odense at 5:16, 6:15, 7:22, 8:16, and 8:22 PM, getting to Copenhagen 2½ to 3 hours later. Those marked "L" (for Lyntog) are the fastest. It is important to reconfirm the schedules when you make your reservations at Copenhagen's station as they are subject to change."

"By car the distance is about 100 miles each way, takes almost 3½ hours, and requires advance ferry reservations which can be made at the Copenhagen station. Follow the A-1 (E-66) route, going by way of Roskilde, Ringsted, Halsskov, and Knudshoved, all the way to Odense, parking in the center of town."

"TIME AND WEATHER:"

"This trip is best made between April and September, when the days are long enough to see it all. From August 15 to the end of September the Funen Village closes at 5:30 PM. St. Canute's Cathedral is open every day except that on Sundays visits are limited to 11:30 AM - 12:30 PM. During the winter season most of the attractions have greatly curtailed hours, which should be checked at the tourist office aside of the Copenhagen station before deciding to go. Heavy traffic can be expected along the entire route on weekends in summer. Weather conditions are rather unpredictable, so it is a wise idea to bring along an umbrella. A little rain, should it fall, will not stop you from enjoying this trip."

"FOOD AND DRINK"

"You will find a wide selection of restaurants along the entire walking route, with a particularly charming one opposite the Andersen House (3) and another by the entrance to the Funen Village (8). Prices are moderate at both of these. For a faster or smaller lunch, the Magasin Department Store (11) offers a nice cafeteria. On the way back to Copenhagen you can have an excellent dinner in the main dining salon aboard the ferry if you hurry up to it as soon as the train is put on, getting there before the mob of hungry Danes."

Click on map to enlarge.

"THE WALK:"

"Arriving at the train station (1) in Odense, head directly to the Danish State Railway Museum (DSB Jernbanemuseum) (2), which is part of the station complex. Housed in a former locomotive shed, the collection of historic rolling stock dating back to the 1850s as well as the model train layout, reconstructed signal tower, and other railway paraphernalia, will be fascinating to anyone with the slightest interest in trains. An English-language description of each major display is available along with an illustrated catalog at nominal cost."

"Return to the station proper and exit from its front door. Crossing the main street, enter the park opposite and stroll through it until you come to the 18th-century castle of King Frederik IV, which today houses county offices. Now turn left and then right onto Nørregade. At Gravens make another left and cross the busy T.B. Thriges Gade, entering the pedestrians-only Hans Jensen Straede. You have stepped out of the present and into a heavily restored old part of town, once a poor neighborhood but now a rather chic place to live."

"At the corner of Bangs Boder is located the supposed Birthplace of Hans Christian Andersen (3), the number-one tourist attraction of Odense. In it and an adjoining building you will be treated to a vast collection of memorabilia and scenes of his remarkable life. Affectionately known to the Danes simply as H.C. Andersen, the national hero was born in 1805, the son of a cobbler and a washerwoman. The family later moved to even poorer lodgings on Munkemøllestraede (7), which you can also visit, where the young Andersen remained until he set out to seek his fortune in Copenhagen at the tender age of fourteen."

"Walk down Bangs Boder, through very charming surroundings, and turn left into Sortebrødre Torv, then right on Møtestraede to the Møntergården Museum (4) on Overgade. This grouping of fine old buildings dating from the 16th and 17th centuries today re-creates the interior settings of Odense as it was in the past. Stroll through its rooms and return to Overgade, following this to Paaskestraede. At number 19, on the corner, is the school that H.C. Andersen attended as a child."

"Turn left on Paaskestraede for one block, then right onto Adelgade, which leads to Albani Torv. Just beyond is Flak Haven, an open square in front of the Town Hall (Rådhus) (5). The front façade of this highly unusual structure was built in 1883 as a facsimile of the medieval Palazzo Pubblico in Siena; the rest of the building is an outstanding example of modern Danish architecture erected in 1955. If you have the time be sure to take a look at its sumptuous interior."

"Across the square is Denmark's finest Gothic church and the oldest building in Odense, St. Canute's Cathedral (Sankt Knuds Kirke) (6), built of brick in the 13th century. In its crypt you can view the bones of St. Canute himself in a glass-covered reliquary; the fatal skull fracture caused by a stone-throwing mob of angry farmers in 1086 being easily visible. The cathedral's greatest treasure, however, is the extremely intricate gold altarpiece carved by Claus Berg in 1526."

"Leaving the Cathedral, walk through Klingenberg and down Sct. Knuds Kirkestraede to Munkemøllestraede, onto which you turn left. At number 3-5 is Hans Christian Andersen's Childhood Home (7). The great writer of fairy tales lived in these humble rooms with his impoverished parents between the ages of 2 and 14. Many of the events that shaped his future destiny took place in this tiny abode, now a museum devoted to his formative years. It will only take a few minutes to see, but the experience can be quite touching."

"At this point you can choose whether to walk or take a bus to the next destination, the Funen Village. If you opt for the bus, return to Flak Haven and board the number 2 bus across the street from the Cathedral (6), telling the driver to let you off at Den Fynske Landsby. On the other hand, should you decide to walk the two miles, go down the street to Klosterbakken, turn right and follow it as it becomes Filosofgangen to the boat landing at Munke Mose. From here turn left into the park and follow the map all the way."

"Arriving at the Funen Village (Den Fynske Landsby) (8), one of the largest open-air museums in Denmark, pay the small admission charge and enter into an enchanting world of old-time rural life. An English-language booklet that completely describes each of the twenty-odd buildings is available at nominal cost. Your first destination should be straight ahead to the Water Mill and Wind Mill (cover photo) (9), behind which there is an amphitheater used for concerts, folk dancing, and - you guessed it - presentations of Andersen's stories."

"From here amble down the main road past all sorts of old farm structures, the interiors of which can be visited. At the end is a fascinating Brickworks (10) re-creating an early industry of Funen. All of the buildings in the village are authentic although they have been moved there from other parts of the island in an effort to save for posterity a heritage that was rapidly disappearing."

"Return, via the number 2 bus or on foot, to Flak Haven. Just beyond the large Magasin Department Store is an old commercial area (11) whose beautifully-restored streets are lined with interesting shops, restaurants, and outdoor cafés; the perfect place to end your visit. Walk down Pogestraede, turn right on Klaregade, and right again onto Vestergade. When you are finished looking about, follow Jernbanegade back to the train station for the departure for which you have made reservations."

Again, remember that this was written in 1980 and that some of the practical information has changed in the years since. This is especially true of transportation — now much, much faster if not as much fun.

Return to the Great Trips / Europe index page.

The Avedon Years, Part XIX

Personal Life

My association with Richard Avedon began in September 1952, just weeks after my 18th birthday. I was not really a regular employee, but rather a sort of apprentice or trainee, earning only a token amount until I learned enough to be of value. In the meantime he was my mentor, teaching me more than I could ever have learned had I chosen college instead. In a way this was advantageous, as the informal relationship allowed me an inside glimpse into the personal life of a great master.

In the Fall of 1952 (or possibly early '53) Dick (as he wanted to be called) happened to mention to me that he had paid a lot of money for a custom hi-fi sound system and that it never worked well (or at all), and that the guy who sold it to him had vanished. I immediately volunteered my services since I had built a component system myself a year or so earlier while still in high school. So I was invited over to his townhouse on Beekman Place to check the thing out.

What a place that was! He, his wife Evelyn, and infant son John occupied the most exquisite home I had ever seen. The first floor had a large kitchen (the domain of their cook), an entrance room with a spiral staircase, a formal dining room, and an opening into a rear garden. All of this on a low hill at the east end of 50th Street, overlooking the East River, just up from the United Nations.

Up the spiral staircase was another gathering room, and to the front a fabulous living room filled with original art. Picassos. Braques. And others. He explained to me that he had learned his sense of taste from Diana Vreeland, then the fashion editor of Harper's Bazaar, later with Vogue, and finally a division head at New York's Metropolitan Museum of Art. This sense of style was still apparent in his last home, above his studio on East 75th Street off First Avenue, which can be seen by clicking here. I have never been to this apartment, but the vibes from the photos are very, very familiar.

In the library beyond this was the recalcitrant hi-fi. After a quick test, I decided that it was hopeless. Only the speakers were okay. So with his money I purchased and installed a good amplifier and a Garrard record changer. Problem solved, and brownie points for me.

In the summer of 1953 he had rented a country home in Connecticut in addition to the Manhattan townhouse. Since I was a good driver and he was a truly awful one, I got to take him there and help set the place up. The biggest problem was with the five-foot-high bronze statue of a dancing Etruscan nude by Marino Marini that resided in the Beekman Place garden. He wanted to plant it in the country garden. Well, the two of us wrestled it into the back of a station wagon and luckily got it there in one piece. Later that night he drove me to the Westport train station so I could return to the city. Two days later I returned by train and drove him back to the Madison Avenue studio. This was repeated a few times until he left for the Paris Collections in July. Incidentally, as far as I know he never again tried living the country life — except for the Hamptons, which is hardly country.

By the time I returned in late 1959 after my army service, he and his family had moved into a large apartment on Park Avenue at about 65th Street. Alas, the lovely Beekman Place house had been torn down to make way for a nondescript apartment building.

In the summer of 1960 (or '61) he wanted to expose his young son John to a real bit of American history, and asked me to take them on a weekend drive to Valley Forge, Gettysburg (photo, left), and Washington D.C. I got to act as tour guide and teacher as well as driver, and it was quite enjoyable. After I became studio manager in 1962 the three of us went on another, longer non-photographic trip. This was to Miami Beach, where Dick and I sat around the pool drawing up a new business plan for the studio. Johnny was interested in space flight, so Dick used his connections to arrange for a private tour of Cape Canaveral, near Melbourne. This was long before the space center opened up to the public. An Air Force Captain met us at the gate and showed us the control rooms, then took us right up to some missiles.

Shortly before I left his studio in 1965 to form my own, Avedon and family once again moved, this time into a townhouse on Riverview Terrace at the end of East 58th Street, overlooking the East River and practically next to the Queensboro Bridge.

After that, I had little contact with him other than some visits to the studio at 110 East 58th Street and a few phone calls. I truly regret not having seen him again before his death in 2004.

Continue on this thread.

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Moret-sur-Loing, France

My first trip to Moret-sur-Loing, way back in May of1977, was a memorable affair. So much so that some seven years later I felt compelled to revisit this delightful bit of the Old World not far from Paris. At that time I was checking out the world of the Impressionist painters for a new book I was writing, Daytrips France. My wanderings past the old canal locks took me to an unexpected sight, the one-time home of French Premier Georges Clemenceau. A notice by the gate invited visitors in, and I was greeted by none other than Madame Clemenceau, the elderly daughter-in-law of the great wartime leader. She showed me around, and produced a snapshot of the Premier with U.S. President Wilson taken after the end of World War I.

Anyway, this is what I wrote about it in Daytrips France, taken from the sixth edition of 2005. Some of the practical information may have changed since then, but I doubt it.

Trip 9

Moret-sur-Loing

Although it has long been a favorite weekend retreat for Parisians, Moret-sur-Loing has yet to be discovered by foreign visitors. This deliciously picturesque old town on the meandering Loing River looks like a scene from an Impressionist painting, and in fact is one. The noted artist Alfred Sisley spent the latter years of his life here, immortalizing for all time its narrow streets, quaint church, delightful bridge, and charming watermills.

Moret was a strategically important border fortress as early as the 12th century, when it protected the Île-de-France from the counts of Champagne. Many of its original structures still exist, preserved amid a medieval atmosphere virtually unmatched elsewhere in the region.

A daytrip to Moret can be combined quite easily with one to Fontainebleau, just 10 km (6 miles) away on the same rail line. If you are driving, you could easily visit Vaux-le-Vicomte, a fabulous château just outside Melun, instead. This is briefly described on page 78. Those going to Moret only will find that it makes a good afternoon trip.

GETTING THERE:

Trains leave Gare de Lyon in Paris fairly frequently for Moret-Véneux-les-Sablons Station, usually stopping at Fontainebleau en route. The trip takes less than one hour. Return service operates until mid-evening. Although Moret is a very small town, it is also an important rail junction, with trains to and from Paris using different, widely spaced platforms. Be careful to note the correct one on the departure board.

By Car, the quickest route is to follow the directions to Fontainebleau (page 92), then take the N-6 into Moret, which is about 74 km (46 miles) southeast of Paris.

PRACTICALITIES:

Moret can be enjoyed at any time in good weather, particularly on weekends. Son et Lumiére spectacles are held on Saturday nights in summer — check the tourist office for details. The tourist office, T: 01-6070-4166, W: moret-sur-loing.fr, is located at 55 Rue Grande, near the Porte de Samois.

FOOD AND DRINK:

There are a number of charming restaurants, mostly located near the bridge. Some choices are:

Auberge de la Palete (Av. Jean-Jaurès, on way to station) A well-recommended inn. T: 01-6-70-5072. X: Tues. eve., Wed., early Apr., late Aug. €€

Rôtisserie du Bon Abri (90 Av. de Fontainebleau, in nearby Véneux-les-Sablons, not far from the train station) An excellent choice. T: 01-6070-5540. X: Sun. eve., Mon. €€

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

The Moret-Véneux-les-Sablons Train Station (1) is nearly a mile from the town proper. You could call for a taxi, although the walk is rather pleasant. Enter the Old Town through the 12th-century Porte de Samois gate (2), near the tourist office. Continue down Rue Grande where, opposite the war memorial park, you will pass the house where Napoleon spent the last night on his return from Elba. Turn right into a passageway leading to a courtyard behind the town hall. Here stands the so-called Maison François I (3), a splendid Renaissance façade built in 1527 and later moved, stone by stone, to Paris, where it remained until 1956. It was then returned to Moret. Back on the Rue Grande there are two fine Renaissance houses at numbers 28 and 30.

Stroll straight ahead through the venerable 12th-century Porte de Bourgogne gate (4). From here a famous bridge spans the Loing River. Midstream, on either side, are two striking old mills, now private residences. Once across, make a left into the park (5) on the river's edge where you can enjoy the romantic view captured in Sisley's renowned painting, The Bridge at Moret, displayed in the Orsay Museum in Paris (image below).

Follow the map past locks on the Burgundy Canal to the former Home of Georges Clemenceau (La Grange Batelière) (6). Designed as a retirement place by the eminent French premier shortly before his death, this intimate, very personal and extremely charming small house (interior photo, right)was occupied by his son until 1964. This may or may not be open to visitors — check with the tourist office.

Return across the bridge and follow Rue de la Tannerie to the ancient Castle Keep (Donjon) (8) on Rue du Donjon. Built in 1128, it was used for several months as a prison for Nicolas Fouquet, Louis XIV's finance minister who amassed a great fortune at the State's expense.

At number 9 Rue du Donjon is the House (8) where the artist Alfred Sisley spent the last years of his life. One of the pioneers of Impressionism, he showed little aptitude in promoting his work and died in poverty. Ironically, his paintings now hang in the world's greatest museums.

Stroll through the evocative narrow alleyways in the immediate area, then continue on to the magnificent Gothic Church of Notre-Dame (9) (photo, right). Begun in 1166 on a site consecrated by Thomas à Becket, the Archbishop of Canterbury, construction continued until the 15th century, when its Flamboyant porch was added. The church is quite interesting to visit — its flying buttresses dramatic in their upward surge. To the right of the church, in an old timbered house, nuns once sold their famous Sucres d'Orge, the barley-sugar specialty of Moret. The nuns are gone, but the candy is still available at several shops in town. Just around the corner, at 5 Rue du Puits du Four, a small museum has opened celebrating the candies and offering a taste. T: 01-6070-3563. Open April-Oct., 3-7. €.

Follow the map via Rue Grande and make the first possible turn through an old building to the river's edge. Wander along to some old fortifications (10) that are now parts of houses, then return to Rue Grande and the station.

Text, map, and photo copyright © 2005 by Earl Steinbicker.

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Hallein, Austria

SILENT NIGHT AND THE SALT MINES

Here's another finished chapter from my forthcoming guidebook Daytrips Austria, due out in 2008. Previous ones were to Hallstatt and Salzburg.

Trip 00

Hallein

A Daytrip from Salzburg

It's only a few minutes from Salzburg, but the ancient town of Hallein is a long way removed in the type of experiences it offers. You can plunge deep into the bowels of the Earth while exploring a salt mine that has been worked since Neolithic times, visit a prehistoric farm before seeing a remarkable museum of Celtic antiquities, and even trace the origin of that most beloved of Christmas carols, "Silent Night."

Hallein owes both its history and its very name to salt, the prefix "hal" being an ancient Celtic word for the mineral. It developed during the Middle Ages as a place where precious salt was extracted from brine coming down from the hillside mines. Some of its medieval past remains intact, while many of the narrow streets are still lined with 17th- and 18th-century houses. Next to the 15th-century parish church is the home and grave of the composer Franz-Xaver Gruber (1787-1863), whose one famous work is still sung by millions the world over.

GETTING THERE:

Trains leave Salzburg frequently for the short 20-minute ride to Hallein. Some of these are expresses, others second-class locals. Return service operates until late evening. For those without railpasses, an all-inclusive Salz Erlebnis Ticket is available that covers the train, bus, salt mines, and museum. A similar ticket is available at the Hallein station for those who used a railpass.

Buses depart frequently from the square in front of Salzburg's train station for Hallein, a ride of 40 minutes. Get off at the Hallein train station. Returns run until mid-evening.

By Car, leave Salzburg on the A-10 (toll) to the Hallein exit, then follow signs through town and uphill to the Salzwelten Salzburg — Bad Dürrnberg, a total distance of about 17 km (11 miles). Upon returning downhill to the town of Hallein, park on the Pernerinsel Island near the train station and tourist office. An alternative free route from Salzburg is to take the B-160 road past Hellbrunn and continue south on the B-159 to Hellein.

PRACTICALITIES:

All attractions are open daily all year round. Bring along a light sweater or jacket as the salt mine is chilly, and wear sensible shoes. The mine is not recommended for handicapped persons, and children under the age of four are not admitted. The local Tourist Information Office, T: (06245) 853-94, W: hallein.com, is on Pernerinsel Island at Maultorpromenade 6, near the parking lot and the train station.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Stadtkrug (Thunstr., near Unterer Markt) A good value in traditional Austrian dishes. T: (06245) 83-085. X: Sat., Sun. lunch. € and €€

Papaya (Griesplatz 8, a few blocks southeast of Unterer Platz) International dishes for a young crowd. T: (06245)88-505. X: Sun. in winter. € and €€

Sun-Ly China Restaurant (Dr. A.-Eder-Str. 6, just north of Unterer Markt) Chinese cuisine, with lunch specials. T: (06245) 83-247. €

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leave the train station (1) and board the bus to Salzwelten Salzburg — Bad Dürrnberg, the salt mines up on the mountain. Those coming by car can drive directly there by following signs.

The main attraction of Hallein is the:

*SALZWELTEN SALZBURG — BAD DÜRRNBERG (Salt Mines) (2), W: salzwelten.at. Open daily April-Oct. 9-5; Nov.-March 10-3. Tours take about 90 minutes. Adults €€€€, children 7-15 and students €€€, children 4-6 €€. Family plans offered. Admission includes the Celtic Village plus the Keltenmuseum and Stille Nacht Museum in Hallein. Children under 4 not allowed, unsuitable for handicapped persons.

Here you'll join a group, which enters a changing room and is issued protective clothing for the subterranean trek. The group then goes to the mine shaft and boards electric wagons, which carry you underground as far as the salt deposits. From there on the tour is on foot, mostly some 3,000 feet beneath Germany as this mine works the same deposits as the famous mine in the nearby Bavarian town of Berchtesgaden. There are stops at displays explaining how the salt is extracted, and at dioramas depicting Celtic miners at work in the Dürrnberg mines as early as 700 B.C., along with artifacts of their early religion. Don't miss the famous Mann in Salz, a prehistoric corpse perfectly preserved in salt and discovered in 1616.

Descending to the lower levels is exciting as you travel rapidly downwards through the mountain on polished wooden slides, followed by a boat ride on an underground salt lake along the way. The visit ends with another electric wagon ride back to daylight. Salt mining operations ceased here in 1989; it is now strictly a show mine.

You might want to take a break at one of the simple outdoor cafés near the mine entrance, where you can sit down with a drink or light meal and enjoy the mountain view.

Just above the mine entrance is a reconstructed prehistoric Celtic Farm Village (Keltendorf Bad Dürrnberg) (3) in the style of about 500 B.C., complete with a prince's burial site. A detailed English explanation of everything is available on request. Open same time as the mines. Admission is included with the salt mine.

Continue steeply uphill to the early-17th-century Pilgrimage Church of Maria Dürrnberg (4), constructed in 1596 of the same local pink marble that is still quarried today.

Nearby is the Kurgarten (5), a lovely garden with one of those strange open pavilions called Gradierwerke where you march around a covered track breathing salt-air fumes that are supposed to be good for your health. It's free, so try it. There are instructions in English.

Return steeply downhill by bus or with your own car (cars should park near the tourist office and saline works (8)) to Hallein and follow the map through the old part of town to the Stadtpfarrkirche (parish church) (6), where Franz-Xaver Gruber, the composer of "Silent Night," was organist for 28 years in the mid-19th century. His organ is still in use, and his house next door now houses the Stille Nacht Museum, filled with memorabilia including the original guitar used in the first performance back in 1818. W: stillenachthallein.at. Open Jan.-Advent, daily 3-5; Advent-Dec. 11-5. In front of this is his grave, a national shrine of sorts, and nearby a plaque in English placed there in 1934 by the schoolteachers of Los Angeles, honoring his "Universal Message of Peace and Good Will."

The route on the map takes you through the picturesque Altstadt to the:

*KELTENMUSEUM (Celtic Museum) (7). Pflegerplatz 5, T: (06245) 807-83, W: keltenmuseum.at. Open daily 9-5. Admission included with salt mine; otherwise €€.

Hallein's superb and quite modern museum features displays of local life among prehistoric Celts, the salt trade through the ages, and regional folklore. Among the outstanding exhibits are an Iron-Age grave complete with skeleton, a diorama of prehistoric salt mining techniques, tools, implements, and jewelry; plus room interiors and costumes from the 19th century.

The best way back to the station takes you past the Saline Works (8), where brine was converted into salt on a island in the Salzach River, the tourist office, the car parking lot, and through the Town Park.

Text originally copyrighted © 1992 by Earl Steinbicker, and substantially revised in 2007 with a new map.

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