Moret-sur-Loing, France

My first trip to Moret-sur-Loing, way back in May of 1977, was a memorable affair. So much so that some seven years later I felt compelled to revisit this delightful bit of the Old World not far from Paris. At that time I was checking out the world of the Impressionist painters for a new book I was writing, Daytrips France. My wanderings past the old canal locks took me to an unexpected sight, the one-time home of French Premier Georges Clemenceau. A notice by the gate invited visitors in, and I was greeted by none other than Madame Clemenceau, the elderly daughter-in-law of the great wartime leader. She showed me around, and produced a snapshot of the Premier with U.S. President Wilson taken after the end of World War I.

Anyway, this is what I wrote about it in the 6th edition of Daytrips France. 

Trip 9

A Daytrip from Paris

Moret-sur-Loing

Although it has long been a favorite weekend retreat for Parisians, Moret-sur-Loing has yet to be discovered by foreign visitors. This deliciously picturesque old town on the meandering Loing River looks like a scene from an Impressionist painting, and in fact is one. The noted artist Alfred Sisley spent the latter years of his life here, immortalizing for all time its narrow streets, quaint church, delightful bridge, and charming watermills.

Moret was a strategically important border fortress as early as the 12th century, when it protected the Île-de-France from the counts of Champagne. Many of its original structures still exist, preserved amid a medieval atmosphere virtually unmatched elsewhere in the region.

A daytrip to Moret can be combined quite easily with one to Fontainebleau, just 10 km (6 miles) away on the same rail line. If you are driving, you could easily visit Vaux-le-Vicomte, a fabulous château just outside Melun, instead. This is briefly described on page 78. Those going to Moret only will find that it makes a good afternoon trip.

GETTING THERE:

Trains leave Gare de Lyon in Paris fairly frequently for Moret-Véneux-les-Sablons Station, usually stopping at Fontainebleau en route. The trip takes less than one hour. Return service operates until mid-evening. Although Moret is a very small town, it is also an important rail junction, with trains to and from Paris using different, widely spaced platforms. Be careful to note the correct one on the departure board.

By Car, the quickest route is to follow the directions to Fontainebleau (page 92), then take the N-6 into Moret, which is about 74 km (46 miles) southeast of Paris.

PRACTICALITIES:

Moret can be enjoyed at any time in good weather, particularly on weekends. Son et Lumiére spectacles are held on Saturday nights in summer — check the tourist office for details. The tourist office, T: 01-6070-4166, W: moret-sur-loing.fr, is located at 55 Rue Grande, near the Porte de Samois.

FOOD AND DRINK:

There are a number of charming restaurants, mostly located near the bridge. Some choices are:

Auberge de la Palete (Av. Jean-Jaurès, on way to station) A well-recommended inn. T: 01-6-70-5072. X: Tues. eve., Wed., early Apr., late Aug. €€

Rôtisserie du Bon Abri (90 Av. de Fontainebleau, in nearby Véneux-les-Sablons, not far from the train station) An excellent choice. T: 01-6070-5540. X: Sun. eve., Mon. €€

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

The Moret-Véneux-les-Sablons Train Station (1) is nearly a mile from the town proper. You could call for a taxi, although the walk is rather pleasant. Enter the Old Town through the 12th-century Porte de Samois gate (2), near the tourist office. Continue down Rue Grande where, opposite the war memorial park, you will pass the house where Napoleon spent the last night on his return from Elba. Turn right into a passageway leading to a courtyard behind the town hall. Here stands the so-called Maison François I (3), a splendid Renaissance façade built in 1527 and later moved, stone by stone, to Paris, where it remained until 1956. It was then returned to Moret. Back on the Rue Grande there are two fine Renaissance houses at numbers 28 and 30.

Stroll straight ahead through the venerable 12th-century Porte de Bourgogne gate (4). From here a famous bridge spans the Loing River. Midstream, on either side, are two striking old mills, now private residences. Once across, make a left into the park (5) on the river's edge where you can enjoy the romantic view captured in Sisley's renowned painting, The Bridge at Moret, displayed in the Orsay Museum in Paris (image below).

Follow the map past locks on the Burgundy Canal to the former Home of Georges Clemenceau (La Grange Batelière) (6). Designed as a retirement place by the eminent French premier shortly before his death, this intimate, very personal and extremely charming small house (interior photo, right)was occupied by his son until 1964. This may or may not be open to visitors — check with the tourist office.

Return across the bridge and follow Rue de la Tannerie to the ancient Castle Keep (Donjon) (8) on Rue du Donjon. Built in 1128, it was used for several months as a prison for Nicolas Fouquet, Louis XIV's finance minister who amassed a great fortune at the State's expense.

At number 9 Rue du Donjon is the House (8) where the artist Alfred Sisley spent the last years of his life. One of the pioneers of Impressionism, he showed little aptitude in promoting his work and died in poverty. Ironically, his paintings now hang in the world's greatest museums.

Stroll through the evocative narrow alleyways in the immediate area, then continue on to the magnificent Gothic Church of Notre-Dame (9) (photo, right). Begun in 1166 on a site consecrated by Thomas à Becket, the Archbishop of Canterbury, construction continued until the 15th century, when its Flamboyant porch was added. The church is quite interesting to visit — its flying buttresses dramatic in their upward surge. To the right of the church, in an old timbered house, nuns once sold their famous Sucres d'Orge, the barley-sugar specialty of Moret. The nuns are gone, but the candy is still available at several shops in town. Just around the corner, at 5 Rue du Puits du Four, a small museum has opened celebrating the candies and offering a taste. T: 01-6070-3563. Open April-Oct., 3-7. €.

Follow the map via Rue Grande and make the first possible turn through an old building to the river's edge. Wander along to some old fortifications (10) that are now parts of houses, then return to Rue Grande and the station.

Text, map, and photo copyright © 2005 by Earl Steinbicker.

 

New link added Dec. 26, 2011:

ATTENTION owners of the iPad, iPhone, and iPodTouch:

An up-to-date, interactive, greatly improved version of this daytrip and many others near Paris is now available for use on iDevices. To sample free them download the FREE travel app SUTRO WORLD (click), which allows you to try out over 300 of the very best travel apps anywhere. Listings are arranged by region. For mine, touch "Europe" and then scan down to "Paris Day Trips: A Travel Guide." Open that, then touch words in bold face blue to explore further. If you like what you see, click on the low, low price in the upper right corner to begin a quick download to your Apple iDevice. It's that easy. 

 

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Comments

[Evelyn Wallace]

Hi Earl!
What a coincidence! I happened to be researching castles in the Seine et Marne region and I wanted to see if I could find something on Francois I Maison! Here it is.
I hope you don't mind if I use the "antiqued" photo of the town to put in the photos of my blog. Photos of the Ile de France region are rather scarce. Sisley also happens to be my favorite impressionist!
Thanks so much!

[antipodeesse]

Hello Earl.

I am a New Zealander, lucky enough to have lived in Moret for 12 years. I very much enjoyed reading your description of my little town. I sometimes take its beauty for granted and forget how lovely it really is, until I see it through a newcomer's eyes once again!

[David Robson]

I first visited Moret in 1971,quite by chance.Rather weirdly I felt an affinity to the place,totally inexplicable! Years later I became interested in the French Impressionists,and became particularly drawn to Alfred Sisley.Upon reading more about him I learned to my puzzlement that he had lived the last decade of his life in Moret.I determined to revisit.In 2004 I made it,and spent happy and inspiring times in and about the town.Visited Sisleys house and the church,and also sisleys grave.I also achived my ambition to paint on the site of some of the great 'sisleys'.That winter I visited the Musee D'orsay,and saw the wonderful sisleys therin.Moret is a strange and wonderful place.Sisley was a beautiful artist.

[Jeff]

I lived in the Fontainebleau area for four years 2002-2006, due to a relocation for my job. Moret-sur-Loing is a great town. I've spent many days hanging out in the town. Another village everyone should check out if they have time visiting the Fontainebleau area, is Milly-la-Foret. Every Thursday they have a market day in a medieval market hall, which is a very neat thing to see.

[Rick Meredith]

Earl,

Just happened upon your page, what a flashback! I lived in Fontainbleau from '63 to '67 and visited Moret often. I learned to fly at a small arifield near there. We often ate at the inn overlooking the river while the older local women did their laundry - in the river!

[Judy Kronheim Blackman]

I lived in Moret until 1957. At that time, it was most famous as a prison for the mixed race illegitimate child of one of the kings - I think it was one of the Charles but do not hold me to it. The child was kept in the tower of the river bridge. There was a cage that looked to be made of railroad ties. I understand the child died quite young and was cared for by a nurse. The tower room was kept open and anyone could walk up but there was some vandalism so by 1957, the key was kept by the cafe/bar next door. The owner told me the history. If you go to the postoffice, there is a heraldic emblem over the door with a black child's head amongst other items. I was a teen then and used to go up and look out over the river and ponder whatever possessed royalty to hide this infant in a cage. Every town has an unusual history and Moret is no exception.

[Tom Aguirre]

I lived in Moret-sur-Loing from 1958-60. As a lad of 12, I spent many happy hours fishing the Loing and exploring the town. I watched Prudent Zanaroff paint river scenes and saw Gypsies camping by their wagons during the summer. Moret changed my outlook on life!

I went back after many years with my wife in 2008 & 2009. I was sad to see that the river was polluted and virtually bereft of fish. Also, the French beret is almost never seen, not only in Moret but most of France.

Happily, though much remains charming and I hope to go back again and again. Vive les Moretains!