Life's Little Adventures

Rye, England

A few days ago I was watching some old British TV comedies from the 1980s on Netflix DVDs when I recognized the locations of all the scenes in the Mapp and Lucia series. They were in one of my favorite English towns, Rye — a gorgeous old port that I had included in my Daytrips London guidebook. So here is that chapter from that book. Enjoy!

Trip 16

*Rye

A relic from the Middle Ages, the once-great seaport of Rye got stranded when its harbor silted up in the 16th century. Today, only small craft can sail the two miles up the River Rother to the town's quayside. In a way this is fortunate, as it left England with a well-preserved port that still clings to its salty past. Rye is alive with the smell of the sea, and working fishermen still walk its ancient streets, side by side with their many visitors. For tourists, it easily ranks as one of the most enjoyable towns in Britain.

GETTING THERE:

Trains depart London's Charing Cross or Victoria stations frequently for either Ashford or Hastings, where you change to a local for Rye. The total journey takes less than two hours. Return trains run until mid-evening, with reduced service on Sundays and holidays. Current schedules and routes are available on the web at nationalrail.co.uk.

By Car, the shortest route is to take the A21 from London to Flimwell and change to the A268. Rye is 63 miles (100 km) southeast of London.

PRACTICALITIES:

Rye may be savored on a fine day in any season. The local Tourist Information Centre, T: (01797) 226-696 or W: visitrye.co.uk, is at The Quay in the Heritage Centre. They offer an audio walking tour of the town, available in English and other languages. Outdoor markets operate on Thursdays near the train station. The annual Rye Festival, held for two weeks in early September, offers music, literary events, films, visual arts, workshops, and children's events, W: ryefestival.co.uk. Rye is in the county of East Sussex and has a population of about 4,500.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Rye has plenty of quaint old inns, tea shoppes, and pubs. Some choices are:

Flushing Inn (Market St., near the Town Hall) A 15th-century inn noted for its seafood. T: (01797) 223-292, W: theflushinginn.com. X: Mon. eve., Tues. £££

Mermaid Inn (Mermaid St.) An old smugglers' haunt from the 15th century. T: (01797) 223-065, W: mermaidinn.com. £££

Fletcher's House (Lion St., just north of St. Mary's Church) Enjoy meals in an historic medieval house. T: (01797) 222-227. X: weekdays. ££

The Lemon Grass (1 Tower St., just outside the Land Gate) Tasty Thai cuisine; seafood, meat, poultry, or vegetarian. T: (01797) 222-327. ££

Ypres Castle (Gun Garden, below Ypres Tower) A cozy pub with good lunches and a great view. Dine indoors or in the garden. T: (01797) 223-248, W: yprescastleinn.co.uk. £ and ££

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leaving the Train Station (1), walk straight ahead and turn left on Cinque Ports Street. In a few yards you will pass remnants of the original 14th-century town walls, just behind a parking lot. The Land Gate (2) is the only remaining town gate of the three that once protected Rye. It was probably constructed about 1340 and originally contained machinery for a drawbridge across the town ditch.

Walk uphill along Hilder's Cliff, enjoying marvelous views across the Romney Marsh. Much of this lowland was once an open ocean, but that was before the sea receded as the River Rother silted up and the tides washed countless pebbles onto the shore.

Make a right down Conduit Hill to the Augustine Friary (3), commonly known as The Monastery. Originally built in 1379, it served as a refuge for persecuted French Huguenots in the 16th century. Today it houses a pottery that's open to the public. Now return to High Street and follow it to the Old Grammar School, erected in 1636 and immortalized by Thackeray. Opposite this is the 400-year-old George Hotel.

A left onto Lion Street leads past Fletcher's House, once a vicarage and now a restaurant. The dramatist John Fletcher was born here in 1579. At the corner of Market Street stands the Town Hall (4), which contains some interesting artifacts including the gruesome gibbet cage with the remains of a notorious 18th-century murderer who was executed in the town.

In a few more steps you will come to *St. Mary's Church (5), first erected between 1150 and 1300. Facing the top of Lion Street is the *Church Clock, the oldest in England still functioning with its original works. Two figures above the clock strike the quarter hours but not the hours. A plaque between them proclaims "For our time is a very shadow that passeth away." Climbing to the top of the *Tower is well worth the effort. An extremely narrow staircase leads to the bell-ringing room where various combinations of "changes" are posted. In the same room is the venerable clock mechanism, complete with an 18-foot-long pendulum. A ladder goes to the bell room itself, and another to the roof, from which there's an unsurpassed *view of the entire area. A visit to the church interior is also worthwhile. T: (01797) 222-430. Tower open Mon.-Wed. and Fri. 9-6; Thurs. 10:40-6; Sat. 9-5:30; Sun. 11:40-5:30. ££.

Across from the churchyard stands a curious oval-shaped brick water reservoir, built in 1735 but no longer used. Bear right and stroll down to Ypres Tower (6) (photo, above). Pronounced by the locals as Wipers, this is the oldest existing structure in town. Largely unchanged since it was first constructed as a defensive fortification around 1249, it ceased to have any military value in later years and became home to one John de Ypres. The town bought it back in 1513 for use as a jail, a function it served until 1865. Now part of the Rye Castle Museum, the tower houses artifacts related to smuggling, law and order, and iron work. There is a good view from its terrace. Just below this is the Gun Garden, an emplacement for artillery pieces that once defended England's shores. The rest of the museum is located nearby, on East Street. Here you can see local pottery, Rye's old fire engine, fashions from the past, model ships, and much more from the town's illustrious past. T: (01797) 226-728, W: ryemuseum.co.uk. Open April-Oct., Thurs.-Mon. 10:30-1 and 2-5. Closed Tues. and Wed., and Nov.-March. Combined admission ££.

Walk down lovely, cobbled Church Square. This soon becomes Watchbell Street, whose name derives from the warning bell once housed there. Along the way you'll pass a Spanish-style Catholic church. At the end is the Lookout, overseeing the harbor.

Traders Passage leads to *Mermaid Street (photo, above), quite possibly the most picturesque thoroughfare in all England. Go uphill to the Mermaid Inn (7), a famous hiding place for smugglers and highwaymen, first built in the late 15th century and much altered over the years. It is now a hotel and restaurant, the perfect spot for a refreshment break. Walk through a passage into the courtyard for a look.

Continue up Mermaid Street and turn right on West Street. Here, where the street bends, is the Lamb House (8), formerly the residence of the Lamb family, which for a long time provided several of Rye's mayors. Henry James lived in this house from 1897 until 1916, writing several of his best-known novels here. A later occupant was the writer E.F. Benson, whose Mapp & Lucia stories are set in the fictional town of Tilling — which all his fans know is really Rye. It is now owned by the National Trust. T: (01580) 762-334, W: nationaltrust.org.uk. Open April-Oct., Thurs. and Sat. only, 2-6, last admission at 5:30. ££.

Stroll back down West Street to High Street and turn left to The Mint, then make a right turn into Needles Passage. This narrow path takes you through a gap in the old Town Wall and down a few steps. Follow the map down Wish Street and turn left just before the bridge, leading onto The Strand. Here you'll find an interesting group of 19th-century warehouses (9) bearing testament to the town's past as a trading port. One of these houses the Heritage Centre and Tourist Office, as well as the acclaimed Story of Rye, a highly entertaining sound-and-light show enveloping a three-dimensional model of the town. Another attraction is the Old Pier Working Models, a collection of antique penny-arcade amusements that you can operate. T: (01797) 226-696, W: ryeheritage.co.uk. Open daily 9-5:30, 10-4 in the off-season. ££.

Before leaving Rye, you might want to take a delightful stroll in the countryside. From the bridge at the foot of Wish Street it is only about 1½ miles to Camber Castle (10), built by Henry VIII in the 16th century to keep the Pope out. Just follow the map to the public footpath along the River Brede, a well-marked trail leading through pleasant sheep-grazing land. The walk is worthwhile even if the castle is closed. T: (01797) 223-862, W: english-heritage.org.uk. Castle open July through Sept., weekends only, 2-5, last admission at 4:30. £.

Copyright © 2003 Earl Steinbicker. Updated to 2008.

I've replaced the B&W photos in the book with newer color photos obtained from the Rye Tourist Office, colored the map, and updated the factual information.

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Stoke Bruerne, England

A Peaceful Walk Along A Rural Canal

Back in 1977 I began my Great Trips / Europe project with this brochure-guide describing an adventurous but not-too-difficult hike along an old canal towpath to a gorgeous village in England. The same trip is still possible today, with only a few minor changes. And don't wear your best shoes, because the towpath is unpaved and can be a bit muddy at times.

Sources of current information, both online and by phone, are given at the end of this posting.

"INTRODUCTION:"

"The canals of England are currently enjoying a resurgence of popularity unkown since the last century, not as the commercial carriers of old but as a watery two-thousand-mile-long linear park for pleasure boaters, fishermen, and just plain walkers alike. Preservation societies and government agencies have recently restored much of the system, creating a pleasant amenity to the English countryside where we can go back in time to a simpler age. The walk described here, although nearly nine miles long, is virtually level and presents an unusual variety of sights such as locks, wharfs, bridges, an aqueduct, a tunnel, passing boats and, finally, the very charming village of Stoke Bruerne, home of the Waterways Museum. Its proximity to London makes this an ideal daytrip for anyone interested in exploring the largely unspoiled rural England of a century ago."

"Stoke Bruerne (pronounced Stoke Brewin) is possibly the best example of a true canal village in England. It lies on the Grand Union Canal, which links London with the Midlands. Begun in 1793 to eliminate deficiencies in the earlier Oxford Canal — River Thames route, the waterway was completed by 1800 except for the Blisworth Tunnel at Stoke Bruerne, which took another five years."

"The canal prospered for another forty years until the coming of the railroads forced its decline. From these changing conditions a gypsy way of life evolved among the canal people, still reflected in the colorful decoration of the narrow boats seen today. An attempt at modernization was started in 1929 following the amalgamation of several canals into the Grand Union. In 1948 the transport structure of Great Britain was nationalized, including the canals which continued their decline in usefulness. It was not until the environmental spirit of the 1960s that these inland waterways were seen as an asset in ways other than commercial haulage. Today much of the system has been restored to a state of tranquil beauty far surpassing that of any time in its past."

"TRANSPORTATION:"

"From London's Euston Station take either the 8:05, 8:05, or 10:05 train to Wolverton (not to be confused eith Wolverhampton). These trains are marked for Birmingham via Northampton. The run takes about one hour." (NOTE: check new, more frequent, faster schedule with website at bottom of post). "If you plan on coming back from Northampton and do not have a BritRail Pass, buy an economical Awayday Return to Northampton and just get off at Wolverton. These schedules are slightly modified on Sundays."

"The walk from Wolverton to Stoke Bruerne will take about three hours and you will need at least two hours to have lunch and see the museum. It is therefore wise to get off to as early a start as possible."

"Buses leave Stoke Bruerne (stop marked on map) for Wolverton at 2:58 PM Monday through Saturday and for Northampton at 3:26 PM on Sundays only. There is no later bus service. If you would like to stay longer you can call for a taxi from Northampton, which is only a few miles away. The pay phone in the parking lot of The Boat Inn has the numbers for the various cab companies, or you could ask for this information at the museum or pub. Taxis have the advantage of taking you right to the train station in Northampton, as opposed to the bus, which requires a ten-minute walk from the terminal to the train. Buses to Wolverton stop right at the station. There are hourly departures from both Northampton and Wolverton (same line) for London."

"As always, it is best to check these schedules before departing as they may change slightly. Current bus schedules are posted at the Wolverton bus stop and at the bus stop for Wolverton in Stoke Bruerne." (NOTE: bus information has changed in the years since this was written. Sources of current information are at the bottom of this post).

"TIME AND WEATHER:"

"A nice, sunny day is essential to fully enjoy this trip. It is equally important that it does not follow several days of rain as the towpath can get muddy in spots. Weekends, especially Sundays, bring out the most boats and people, lending a festive air to the entire route. Remember that the pubs close at 2 PM, so if you arrive at Stoke Bruerne after that you will have a more limited choice of places to eat and none at all to drink." (NOTE: pub times have changed since this was published, less limited now. Check website below). "The Waterways Museum is open daily from Easter to October and every day except Mondays and major holidays the rest of the year." (NOTE: check website at the end of this post for current information).

"FOOD AND DRINK:"

"You will pass several canalside pubs along the walk, which are indicated on the map. The Boat Inn in Stoke Bruerne is a very colorful pub with good food and lots of atmosphere. In addition, the village features an excellent restaurant and two tea shops, all grouped around the locks and museum. Another idea would be to bring a picnic lunch and eat along the way."

"WHAT TO BRING:"

"You will need a pair of sturdy shoes for this walk. While most of the towpath is well surfaced, a few less frequented sections are a bit rough. Remember that the walk is nearly nine miles long, so keep the weight to an absolute minimum. A folding umbrella is always a good idea in England, no matter how sunny the day appears."

"THE WALK:"

"Leaving the train station at Wolverton (1), turn right over the canal (no access here) and continue along Stratford Road with the British Engineering Works on your right. You will go along a red brick wall for several blocks to the first right turn, a footpath marked Bridleway. Take this to a bridge over the canal, which you cross, then go down a staircase and around under the bridge onto the towpath. The canal will be on your left."

"Soon you will reach the Great Ouse Aqueduct (2), a cast-iron trough on stone pillars which carries the canal and towpath across the River Ouse. Originally, nine locks took the canal down to the river level and back up the other side, but this was an awkward arrangement and was replaced in 1805 by a brick aqueduct which collapsed in 1808. The present structure dates from 1811."

"The first lock (3) you come to is near Cosgrove. Just past this the derelict Stratford and Buckingham Branch Canal takes off to the left. Follow the main canal to the right. In a few hundred yards you will reach the village of Cosgrove (4) with its old warehouse, now a boatyard, on the opposite bank. There is a damp pedestrian tunnel at this point, should you care to visit the Barley Mow pub across the waterway."

"Solomon's Bridge (5), a peculiar Gothic span over the canal which dates from 1800, is unique among canal bridges for its solitary splendor. Follow the towpath across it to the other side of the canal, which is now on your right. From here until Stoke Bruerne you will be walking through a remote section with little sign of civilization. The next bridge is at Castlethorpe Wharf, where the Navigation Inn has food and drink. The towpath again crosses the bridge and the canal is now on your left."

"Here begins a long stretch with occasional farms the only sight other than the peaceful water and light boat traffic. The bridges you come to are sometimes numbered on plaques at the apex of their arches. These numbers are indicated on the map. Most of them just link farms fields on opposite sides and do not carry roads. Just beyond the far bank lie the villages of Yardley Gibbon and Grafton Regis (6). At bridge number 55 the seven-lock, 56-foot climb to Stoke Bruerne begins. You again cross to the other side. The Stoke Bruerne Locks (7) are the scene of much activity as a constant stream of pleasure boats work their way through. The operation of the locks, all manual, is fascinating to watch."

"At the top of the locks, beyond a double-arched bridge, is the village of Stoke Bruerne. Opposite the top lock there is a side lock with a boat permanently resting on a weighing scale, once used to determine tolls. The device is not, however, in situ, having been moved here from another canal. On the right is the Waterways Museum (8), housed in an old three-story mill, whose exhibits bring to life the rich history of England's canals. At least an hour will be needed to see it properly. Adjacent to it is a museum shop, a tea room, and a restaurant. The Boat Inn, a colorful old pub on the other side, once served as a social center for the canal people. Today it features simple meals and real ale, making it very popular with pleasure boaters. There is also an adjoining tea room for snacks. Short boat rides are available here in the summer."

"Stroll north along the towpath for a few blocks to the entrance of the Blisworth Tunnel (9), which is the longest still in use on the entire English canal system. Nearly two miles of dark, damp tunnel must be endured by boaters heading north from here. It has no towpath, so you cannot enter its depths. Boats at one time were "legged" through by men lying on wings attached to each side of the vessel and propelling it forward by pushing their feet against the walls of the tunnel, a terrifying process which took several hours. The shed by the portal was used as a resting place for horses and "leggers" alike."

"Stroll back past the museum to either the bus stop (10) or to the pay phone near the pub from which you can call for a taxi to Northampton."

Copyright © 1977, 1981 Earl Steinbicker.

The map and three small B&W photos were scanned from the brochure-guide as I have not yet been able to locate the original material. The top photo, taken from my original B&W photo, had some color tinting added for atmosphere.

Although some of the practical information has changed since 1981, it is still perfectly possible to make this Little Adventure. For current information, contact the following websites:

Museum: nwm.org.uk/stoke/, Phone 01604-862229

Pub: boatinn.co.uk, Phone 01604-862428

Train schedules: nationalrail.co.uk. Enter from: London Euston, to: Wolverton, and your time frame.

CLICK HERE for another canal posting in England on this blog.

RETURN to Great Trips / Europe index.

My Army Experiences, Part XIII

Previously on this thread.

THE JOYS OF BASIC TRAINING

January 15, 1957 was the day I began my service in the U.S. Army. At that time we had this little thing called the Draft, which required all fit males in America to serve at least two years in the military — except those, of course, who found ways out of it. Most did not, and most completed their duty. Since I qualified for a high security clearance, I choose to enlist directly into the secretive Army Security Agency (ASA) for three years instead of two years in the Infantry (or whatever). I never regretted that choice.

Until that fateful day I had an exciting job in New York that I hated to leave, but as there was no choice I returned to my parents' home in Allentown, Pennsylvania just before Christmas for a few weeks of fun before putting on the uniform.

All new recruits and draftees began their service with Basic Training. Mine was at lovely Fort Jackson, South Carolina, just outside the state capital of Columbia, and lasted until March 23, 1957 — just a bit over two months of rigorous experiences. This is how I remember it, over 50 years later:

A high-school friend named Vince was called up at the same time, and we went through Basic together. It began with a train ride from Philadelphia to Washington, which was blanketed in snow at the time. With several hours to kill, we hit the bars near Union Station before boarding the midnight train, a slow sleeper to Columbia SC.

Arriving the next morning, my first impression of this southern city was not a good one. Right at the end of the station platform were two drinking fountains; one nice and the other a primitive mess. The messy one was labeled "Colored." Remember, this was 1957, years before the civil rights movement.

A bus took us to Fort Jackson, where we pledged allegiance and then had our first taste of army chow. The mess hall was like a very basic cafeteria. Above the serving line was a large sign that ordered "Take All You Want — Eat All You Take." The food was actually not too bad, or maybe I was just super hungry. Next, we were taken to another building where we shorn of hair, stripped naked, deloused, and issued uniforms. After which we were assigned to a training unit — mine was Company B, Eighth Battalion, Second Training Regiment.

The barracks that we would call home for the next nine weeks looked like those in the photo above. These were pre-World War II wooden buildings that each housed about a hundred guys. The double-decker bunks were close together, allowing absolutely no privacy at any time. Especially in the latrine, where the toilet bowls were lined up next to each other with no separating panels at all. Well, I thought, grin and bear it, it will all be over soon enough.

One of our first lessons was familiarization with the standard infantry weapon of the time, the M-1 30-calibre rifle, often known as the Garand after its inventor. Besides learning to take care of it, and eventually to shoot it, we also had to be careful NEVER TO CALL IT A GUN. Doing so resulted in the cruelest of penalties — having to stand in front of the company and, pointing to the rife, repeating "This Is My Rife...," then pointing to your crotch and saying "...This Is My Gun," followed by "This Is For Killing," and "This Is For Fun."

Soon we went for a long hike, weighted down with a full pack and rifle. That's me on the left, marching through the sandy pine barrens of Fort Jackson on a cold winter's day back in 1957. Every once in a while we would stop for a five-minute smoke break. At that time nearly everyone smoked, and cigarettes cost only 10¢ a pack at the PX. And there were free ones in the C-Ration meal kits, except they were Lucky Strikes in the Green pack — making them of pre-World-War-II vintage.

Marching, military drill, and physical training wasn't much fun, but it was probably good for us. We did a lot of it those first few weeks. There was also the confidence course, which taught physical prowess, coordination, and endurance by climbing over obstacles and maintaining balance on narrow, elevated logs. And the hated gas drill, where we inched our way through gas-filled rooms while wearing gas masks.

For me, the best part was on the firing range. I was a photographer before being drafted, and photographers usually are good marksmen as they already know how to concentrate on a subject (target), hold a camera (rifle) steady, and gently squeeze the shutter button (trigger). The first actual firing began on the range, with relatively close targets, then progressed to greater distances and finally to simulated combat. The photo to the right shows members of our Company B in transition firing. That's me on the right, yapping away on the field telephone.

For simulated combat we used blanks instead of real bullets. These stung a bit if you got hit, but were otherwise harmless. It was loads of fun, just like being a little kid again. Until, that is, I made a bad mistake. I was to attack with a rifle grenade, which was an explosive missile stuck on the end of the rifle barrel. Shooting it required holding the rifle in a certain position so as not to get hit with the recoil. But in the heat of battle I held it up tp my eye, as with regular ammunition, and fired. The result was a badly bruised face and one black eye. This did not get me out of pressing on, however.

One fine winter day in February we went on bivouac, otherwise known as camping in the woods. Having been a Boy Scout, I was familiar with this, but here we did not have real tents. Instead, we had "shelter halves." This was just a piece of canvas which, when joined to another one, could be used as a crude, makeshift shelter (photo, left). Fortunately, my shelter mate was smart enough to dig a small ditch around our "tent," just in case it rained. It poured that night, and then the temperature fell to below freezing and the water turned to ice. But we were snug and dry inside. For breakfast that morning we had C-rations — cold canned spaghetti.

The infiltration course was the scariest and most thrilling event in the whole nine weeks. Adding to the drama was the fact that it took place on a dark and rainy night. In this course, you climb up out of a trench and crawl uphill in the mud, sometimes through barbed wire, being VERY careful not to raise your head. Why not? Because right above you is live machine-gun fire. At the top, safely beyond the machine guns, are "enemy" entrenchments, into which you toss a hand grenade, which goes boom. Lots of fun, if a bit messy.

Toward the end we were allowed a weekend pass, which meant going to nearby Columbia, the state capital of South Carolina. A friend and I took a bus there, hit the bars on the main drag, and stayed overnight at a nice hotel next to the Capitol building, I believe it was called the Wade Hampton or something like that. The only booze we could get on post was 3.2 beer, so this trip was a treat.

The only worry that I had all this time was that my security clearance would not be approved, meaning three years in the infantry instead of the Security Agency. But it came through with no problem.

Alas, all good things must come to an end. On March 23rd, 1957, we departed Fort Jackson and flew to Washington, then I continued on to Allentown PA for a short rest before driving north to Fort Devens, just outside of Boston, for further assignment within the Agency.

ONWARD to What We Wore: Fashions in the army.

CLICK HERE to return to my Military Service index.

ÈZE, FRANCE

Here's an pleasure-filled daytrip for anyone heading to the French Riviera and staying in or around Nice or Monaco. It is taken from the Sixth Edition of my 2005 guidebook Daytrips France, and slightly updated.

Trip 38

Èze

Looking down from a rocky perch high above the Mediterranean, the incredibly picturesque village of Èze draws a steady stream of visitors to its enchanted site. Add to the spectacular setting the fact that it's right on the main road linking Nice with Monaco and you have the makings of a classic tourist trap. Fortunately, Èze survives the onslaught with grace and offers many hidden charms to those who will seek them out.

Èze's history goes back to pre-Roman times, when it was an ancient Ligurian oppidum, most likely established by the Phoenicians. A Roman highway, the Haraklean Way, passed by here as the area entered into four centuries of peace under the Pax Romana. During the Dark Ages Èze,weakened by famine and plague, was taken over by the Saracens, whose rule lasted into the 10th century. Following liberation under William, Count of Provence, the village prospered and in 1860 became a part of France.

There are no famous sights or great museums in Èze, just the delightful medieval pedestrian lanes carved into the rocky mountainside, the ancient stone buildings and, above all, the fantastic views over the Mediterranean. This is the perfect place to unwind, perhaps sitting at a café and absorbing the atmosphere, or visiting the many tiny craftsmen's shops in search of an unusual souvenir.

GETTING THERE:

Buses depart the bus station (Gare Routière) on Boulevard Jean-Jaurès in Nice fairly frequently for Èze, a stop on the route to Monaco. Be sure to get one bound for Èze-Village, not Èze-Bord-de-Mer (Èze-sur-Mer), and try to sit on the right-hand side of the bus to enjoy the spectacular views.

Trains connect Èze-sur-Mer, a sea-level village well below the hill town, with Nice and virtually all other places along the Riviera, at frequent intervals. From there you would have to climb up some 1,200 feet on a rocky path, or take a roundabout route by bus or cab. You might want to return this way, however.

By Car, Èze is about 11 km (7 miles) northeast of Nice on the N-7 Moyenne Corniche road. Traffic is often congested along here, so allow enough time — and enjoy the fantastic views. There is a large parking lot at the entrance to the village.

Aerial view (above) courtesy of Office Municipal du Tourisme d'Èze

PRACTICALITIES:

Good weather is essential for enjoyment of this trip, which can be made on any day or in any season. The local Tourist Office, T: 04-9341-2600 or W: eze-riviera.com, is by the parking lot .

FOOD AND DRINK:

You won't go hungry — or thirsty — in Èze, given its numerous restaurants and cafés. Just a few of the better choices are:

Le Remparts, Château de la Chèvre d'Or (Rue Barri, near the southeast corner of the village. Renowned for its regional cuisine in a pretty setting. Lunch only in high season, reservations needed, T: 04-9210-6666. €€€+

Le Grill du Château (Rue Barri, as above) The slightly less expensive restaurant of the renowned Château de la Chèvre d'Or. Reserve, T: 04-9341-0017. X: Sun. eve., Mon., mid-Feb. to early March. €€€

Troubador (Rue Barri, near the southeast corner of the village) Traditional French cuisine in a typical 16th-century house. Reserve, T: 04-9341-1903. X: Mon., mid-Nov. to late Dec. €€ and €€€

Bistrot Loumiri (Ave. Jardin Exotique, on the way into the village) A good-value choice. Reservations suggested, T: 04-9341-1642. X: Mon.-Tues. in winter. €€

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Whether you came by bus or by car, you'll be starting out at the parking lot at Place Général de Gaulle (1). From here it's an uphill stroll along Avenue du Jardin Exotique and into Èze-Village, as the upper town is properly known. The sole entrance is by the ancient 14th-century Fortified Gateway (Porte Fortifiée). Continue on through the tiny, stepped stone streets, turning right onto Rue du Brec, becoming Rue de l'Eglise. This leads to the Parish Church (2), reconstructed in the Classical style in 1772. Within its Baroque interior is a fine statue of the Assumption as well as a remarkable baptismal font. A reliquary below the altar contains the remains of Saint Germain, a martyr of the 4th century.

Return on Rue du Brec, passing the Local History Museum (3), a tiny place that is open only on request, T: 04-9210-6060. Now follow Rue Principale to Place du Planet, where you'll find the historic White Penitents' Chapel (4). Dating from the 14th century, it was the meeting place of the White Penitents brotherhood, who for centuries took care of burying Èze's dead, as well as taking care of its needy. The simple interior is decorated with fine religious art, both medieval and contemporary.

Now follow the route through the narrow alleyways, heading uphill to the famous *Tropical Gardens (Jardin Exotique) (5). Suspended some 1,400 feet above the blue Mediterranean, the garden offers a breathtaking *panorama over the tiled rooftops, the sea, and much of the Riviera. Established in 1949 around the ruins of a 14th-century castle that was destroyed in 1706 on orders from Louis XIV, the gardens are filled with many varieties of cacti and succulents, mostly from the Americas. T: 04-9341-1030. Open July-Aug., daily 9 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Sept.-June, daily 9 to 6 or 7. €.

Wander down through the village, picking your way through the tiny passageways and passing several craftsmen's shops, art galleries, boutiques, and souvenir shops. You'll also pass some inviting restaurants and cafés, many of which offer wonderful views from their outdoor terraces.

Before leaving Èze, you may wish to visit one of its perfume establishments. Parfumerie Fragonard (6), near the parking lot, has a perfume factory as well as a shop, both open to the public. T: 04-9341-0505 or W: fragonard.com. Visits April-Oct., daily, 8:30-6:30; Nov.-March, daily 8:30-noon and 2-6. Free.

If you came by bus — and didn't buy a round-trip ticket — you may prefer to return by train instead. The Sentier Frédéric-Nietzsche (7) is a steep woodland path leading sharply down to the station at Èze-sur-Mer, from which trains run frequently to Nice and practically anywhere else on the Riviera. The great German philosopher Frederic Nietzsche worked out his masterpiece, Thus Spake Zarathustra, while hiking this trail; perhaps you'll be similarly inspired. Parts of it are rocky, so be sure you have adequate shoes, and allow a full hour for the 1,200-foot descent.

Copyright © 2005 by Earl Steinbicker, and slightly modified and updated for web use, with color added.

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The Avedon Years, Part XXI

AVEDON'S STUDIOS

Earlier posts on this blog discuss Avedon's lighting methods, cameras, darkroom techniques and other related subjects. Now we move on to the spaces where he worked:

During the times that I assisted him, Richard Avedon had three studios in New York City. When I began, in September of 1952, he was still at 640 Madison Avenue, between 59th and 60th streets. The photo above is of that building in the 1930s, seen from the northeast corner of 60th Street and Madison Avenue. His studio was on the second floor, near the southwest corner, facing the interior courtyard. It looked the same in 1952. I don't know when he first moved in there, or much about its earlier history other than that it was once occupied by a famous fashion photographer whose name I have forgotten. The building, of early 1930's vintage, was a full block long but only two stories high. This arrangement was apparently common in New York during the Great Depression, and these buildings were called "taxpayers" as the modest rents in those lean years barely covered the maintenance costs and property taxes. The ground floor was occupied by a movie theater, a cafeteria, and several retail shops. The plan was to add additional floors when prosperity returned. But by the mid-1950s the building was obsolete and was torn down to make way for a high-rise office tower.

The diagram below shows the floor layout of Avedon's studio at 640 Madison Avenue. It is drawn from memory and is not to scale, but I am certain that it is pretty accurate. If anyone reading this can add more material, I would be deeply grateful.

In the diagram above, the numbered rooms were used as:

1. Reception. There was a "butterfly" chair and director's chairs. My father waited here as I was interviewed by Avedon in May 1952, at age 17.

1a. Office, the province of his secretary Polly Hatch.

2. The studio. There was a skylight as shown, and a huge electric panel feeding the 5,000-watt Saltzman lights. The little alcove in the rear was storage for background papers. The photo on the right shows Avedon working under the skylight in 1953.

2a. Dressing room.

3. Avedon's personal room, with couch, chairs, table, record player, etc. It was flooded with daylight from the courtyard window. This is where I was interviewed.

4. Office of Avedon's representative, Laura Kanelous.

5. Work area, where negatives were numbered, prints mounted, and so on.

5a. Film darkroom, where B&W film was processed. 

5b. Print darkroom, fitted with an Omega D-2 4x5 enlarger, and an Elwood 8x10 enlarger.

Sometime in early 1954, or possibly in late '53, studio manager Frank Finocchio and I rode the Third Avenue El down to 49th Street to look at a large loft space above Manny Wolf's Restaurant. The building on Madison Avenue was scheduled to come down, and Avedon needed a new place. The El itself was also soon to be demolished. Pity. Anyway, this space at the northeast corner of Third Avenue and 49th Street was perfect. I believe that this building is still there, at least it was the last time I strolled by.

NEXT TIME, I'll describe the 203 East 49th Street studio.

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Pink Floyd Fan, Part II

CLICK HERE for the earlier post on Pink Floyd

I've recently discovered a DVD that spreads considerable light on the early days of the band, especially on their relationship with Syd Barrett. Although first issued in 2005, this newer 2007 two-disc edition contains several hours of additional raw, unedited material — most of which was left out of the initial documentary.

The stunning cover design by artist Mark Wilkinson, an image (above) right out of the psychedelic 1960s, sets the tone for this trip back in time.

This is truly a must-have for really devoted Floyd fans, although others may find that it contains more than they ever wanted to know. There are extensive interviews with band members Roger Waters, David Gilmour, Nick Mason, and Rick Wright — as well as with friends, managers, and lovers who were close to Syd. There are also clips from home movies, TV appearances, band posters, and other memorabilia along with a biography text.

The original documentary, on Disc One, is only 49 minutes long, but provides an exhilarating journey into the creation of their first album, The Piper at the Gates of Dawn. The cover design (image, right) of that 1967 album truly belongs to the psychedelic era — back then even I had a prismatic camera lens attachment that did the same thing!

Syd Barrett (1946-2006) was really the heart and soul of the Pink Floyd. A founding member back in 1965, he gave it their distinctive musical direction as well as their name. Increasing mental instability along with his reported use of LSD led to his leaving the band in 1968, to be replaced by his friend David Gilmour. For the next few years he pursued a solo career, and then retired to his home in Cambridge. There he returned to his original art of painting, along with gardening, and there he died of cancer at age 60 on July 7, 2006.

A quite thorough biography can be found on Wikipedia.

Return to Part I.