Life's Little Adventures

WHY DAYTRIPS?

My style of independent travel goes all the way back to my military service in Japan during the 1950s. Actually, my first memory of a one-day trip from home was even earlier, when my dad took me to the New York World's Fair in 1939 — where I marveled at those wonders to come. There were other early trips, too, usually by trolley car, bus, or steam train as we didn't have a car during the Great Depression or World War II.

A trip to England in 1975 really changed my life. I was over there on an ill-conceived quest to try my hand at movie making when I discovered that writing about travel destinations was much more to my liking than filming them. This got me started on the Great Trips / Europe project of creating brochure-guides for one-day adventures, described elsewhere on this blog.

Out of that experience came the opportunity to write travel guide books with a daytrips theme for a long-established New York publisher, Hastings House.

This is how I make the point in my Daytrips guidebooks:

"The word "Daytrip" may not have made it into dictionaries yet, but for experienced independent travelers it represents the easiest, most natural, and often the least expensive approach to exploring a fresh new destination from a fixed base, such as a major city.

While not the answer to every travel situation, daytrips offer significant advantages over point-to-point touring following a set plan. Here are a dozen good reasons for considering the daytrip approach:

1. Freedom from the constraints of a fixed itinerary. You can go wherever you feel like going whenever the mood strikes you.
2. Freedom from the burden of luggage. Your bags remain in your hotel while you run around with only a guidebook and camera.
3. Freedom from the anxiety of reservation foul-ups. You don't have to worry each day about whether that night's lodging will actually materialize.
4. The flexibility of making last-minute changes to allow for unexpected weather, serendipitous discoveries, changing interests, new-found passions, and so on.
5. The flexibility to take breaks from sightseeing whenever you feel tired or bored, without upsetting a planned itinerary. Why not sleep late in your base city for a change?
6. The opportunity to sample different travel experiences without committing more than a day to them.
7. The opportunity to become a "temporary resident" of your base city. By staying there for a week or so you can get to know it in depth, becoming familiar with the local restaurants, shops, theaters, night life, and other attractions — enjoying them as a native would.
8. The convenience of not having to hunt for a hotel each day, along with the security of knowing that a familiar room is waiting back in your base city.
9. The convenience of not having to pack and unpack your bags each day. Your clothes can hang in a closet where they belong, or even be sent out for cleaning.
10. The convenience (and security!) of having a fixed address in your base city, where friends, relatives, and business associates can reach you in an emergency. It is often difficult to contact anyone who changes hotels daily.
11. The economy of staying at one hotel on a discounted longer-term basis, especially with airline package plans. You can make reservations for your base city without sacrificing any flexibility at all.
12. The economy of getting the most value out of a railpass. Daytripping is ideally suited to rail travel since the best train service operates out of base-city hubs. This is especially true in Europe.

Above all, daytrips ease the transition from tourist to accomplished traveler. Even if this is your first trip abroad, you can probably handle an uncomplicated one-day excursion on your own. The confidence gained will help immensely when you tackle more complex destinations, freeing you from the limitations of guided tours and putting you in complete control of your own trip."

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Zaanse Schans, Holland

Off to Amsterdam? Want to visit some real working windmills? Why not take this easy, short little daytrip to nearby Zaanse Schans — as described in my guidebook Daytrips Holland, Belgium & Luxembourg. Print it out, take it along, and enjoy. Better still, buy the book and enjoy unusual sights all over the Benelux countries.

Trip 6

Zaanse Schans

You don't have to go far from Amsterdam to see working windmills in a setting of preserved quaintness. The Zaanse Schans is an extremely popular destination for visitors in search of a bit of Oud Holland, all neatly packaged and ready to be enjoyed. At first, this may seem like the ultimate Dutch tourist trap, but it can also be a lot of fun and should not be missed.

As the Zaan region, just northwest of Amsterdam, developed industrially its traditional buildings were in danger of being lost forever. Fortunately, some of Holland's precious heritage was saved in the 1950s by the Zaanse Schans Foundation, which moved an assortment of old windmills, houses, and other interesting structures to a 20-acre site on the banks of the Zaan River. Restored to their 18th-century appearance, the houses are not just an outdoor museum — indeed, most of them are actually lived in today, bringing real life to what would otherwise be only another tourist attraction. Some of the working windmills as well as all of the craft shops and small museums may be visited.

This trip can easily be combined in the same day with one to Alkmaar, described in the next chapter. They are both on the same rail line.

GETTING THERE:

Trains, bound for Alkmaar, depart Amsterdam's Centraal Station at frequent intervals for the 16-minute ride to Koog-Zaandijk, which is just a short walk from the site. Be sure to get on a local train (stoptrein). Return service operates until late evening.

By Car, leave Amsterdam via the Coen Tunnel and take the A-8 and A-7 motorways past Zaandam in the direction of Purmerend, then follow signs to Zaanse Schans. The total distance from central Amsterdam is 16 km (10 miles). Parking at the site is free for the first 30 minutes, then € for the next hour and €€ thereafter.

PRACTICALITIES:

The Zaanse Schans site is always open, and admission to it is free. Most of the attractions there are open Tuesdays through Sundays, with some also open on Mondays. The hours from March through October are 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. During the winter most sights are open only on weekends. If you combine this daytrip with Alkmaar, you may prefer to go on a Friday, in which case you should see Alkmaar first.

For further information contact the site's Visitor Center, T: (075) 616-8218. Practical information is available at W: zaanseschans.nl. Windmill fanciers might check out W: zaansemolen.nl.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Two good places to eat within the Zaanse Schans site are:

De Hoop Op d'Swarte Walvis (along Kalverringdijk, the main street) Superb French dining in an 18th-century house. Reservations preferred, T: (075) 616-5629. X: Sat. lunch, Sun. lunch. €€€ and €€€+

De Kraai (at the east end of the site) All sorts of pancakes, some with meat or cheese, along with sandwiches and drinks. Self-service in a colorful old warehouse, outdoor tables available. T: (075) 615-6403. X: winter. €

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Begin at the Koog-Zaandijk Station (1) and follow the signs to Zaanse Schans, a walk of about ten minutes. Those coming by car should park at the eastern end of the site itself and adjust the walk accordingly.

Kalverringdijk is the main street of the village. On the left as you enter there is an attractive French-style garden with a small tea pavilion, now a Pewter Shop in which visitors can watch pewter objects being handcrafted. The house next to it was originally a workshop from the 17th century, and now houses a fascinating Clock Museum (2), where you can examine antique timepieces from around the world and particularly from this part of Holland. T: (075) 617-9769. €. Museum Card holders free.

Adjacent to this is a 19th-century Grocery Store (3), operated as a small museum. Step inside to see (and smell!) how food was sold in the days before supermarkets. Continue on past several other old houses and the noted restaurant "De Hoop Op d'Swarte Walvis," an 18th-century structure once used as an orphanage. Near the end of the row is Het Noorderhuis (4), a merchant's house built in 1670. Its interior is filled with antique room settings complete with figures in period costumes, and may be visited. T: (075) 617-3237. €, Museum Card holders free.

Boat Trips on the Zaan River, going past a nice variety of windmills and lasting about 50 minutes, may be taken from the Pier (5). T: (075) 614-6762. Operates March through Oct., Tues.-Sun. €. Close to this is an 18th-century windmill, De Huisman, first built to grind snuff and later used for making mustard. A shop inside sells the mustard in an assortment of lovely containers.

From here, a row of windmills stretches along the river. The first of these, De Poelenburg, was built in 1869 to saw wood. €. A much older one, called *De Kat (6) and originally built elsewhere in the region in 1696, still grinds pigments for paints. You are welcome to climb all over its interior and watch the process at work. T: (075) 621-0477. €. Beyond it is a mill used to extract oil from grains. Known as De Zoeker (7), it is also open to visitors. T: (075) 628-7942. €. Another mill that can be visited is De Bonte Hen, just to the north. The mills extending beyond this are in various states of reconstruction.

Return to the village and turn left on Zeilenmakerspad (Sailmaker's path). Passing the oldest house at Zaanse Schans, built for a Zaandam merchant in 1623 and now home to an antiques shop, you will soon come to the Bakery (8). Beginning as a private house in 1658, it was converted to make bread in 1753 and is now restored as a small museum. Note the outdoor toilet over a ditch in its rear — those canal waters were not always so clean!

On your left is the Cheese Farm (9), where they sell good homemade cheese. Yes, you can taste some. Continue on past the small drainage windmill, which still functions, and cross a tiny lift bridge. You are now at the eastern end of the site, where a café and self-service restaurant occupies a complex of old structures, along with gift shops. The Wooden Shoe Workshop (10) is sure to have a pair of clogs in your size, should you feel so inclined.

Beyond this, across the parking lot, stands the striking new Zaans Museum. Here the whole saga of Europe's oldest industrial area comes to life through artifacts, reconstructions, videos, and other modern presentations. T: (075) 616-2862. Open Tues.-Sat. 10-5, Sun. noon-5. €, Museum Cards accepted. Café.

Return via a path called De Kwakels, along which is an old shipyard. It is now only a short walk back to the station or parking lot.

Copyright © 2006 Earl Steinbicker.

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MORE free Holland Daytrip chapters from the book: Hoorn & The Historic Triangle, Volendam, Marken & Edam.

RETURN to Free Daytrips Chapters Index.

Helsingør & Helsingborg

A ONE-DAY TRIP FROM COPENHAGEN

One of the last of my brochure-guides from the Great Trips / Europe project describes this do-it-yourself Little Adventure to Helsingør in Denmark and Helsingborg in Sweden. Although dating from 1980, this daytrip can still be done today after checking current information on the website links given at the bottom of this posting.

Here's the original 1980 text:

"Trip 154"

"INTRODUCTION:"

"To be or not to be in Helsingør — that is the question. With apologies to the Bard, the problem is whether its castle was actually the home of his unhappy Prince of Denmark. Its answer is of course not — the Hamlet we know existed only in fiction. The fortress of Helsingør, however, was well known to English sailors in Shakespeare's time who, dropping the H, commonly called it Elsinore. Even if the connection is tenuous, the fact remains that a more perfect locale for the drama is almost unthinkable. One look at its outer bastions is all you need to almost see the beckoning ghost of the king."

"There are other reasons to make this trip as well. The twin towns of Helsingør and Helsingborg have a long history dating back to medieval days and both are remarkably well preserved. Taking the international ferry between them is a pleasant adventure in itself. The walk on the Swedish side reveals many of the subtle ways in which that country's lifestyle differs from the Dane's. From the top of Kärnan tower you will gain, besides an unparalleled panorama of sea and land, an instant appreciation of the strategic value these narrow straits played in history. The wealth of Denmark, which often occupied both sides of the water, was very much dependent on the tolls it collected from merchant ships sailing the Øresund sound between the 15th and 19th centuries. This in turn brought an early prosperity to both towns, endowing them with particularly attractive reminders of the past."

"TRANSPORTATION:"

"Frequent trains depart Copenhagen's Central Station at about 30 minute intervals for the less-than'50-minute ride to Helsignør, making reference to a schedule unnecessary. Return trains operate until about midnight."

"Upon arrival at Helsignør go immediately to the adjoining ferry terminal and board the connecting boat to Helsingborg in Sweden, a ride of about 20 minutes. The voyage is covered by the Eurailpass if you have one, otherwise purchase a ticket. The ferry departs every 15 minutes."

"By car, Helsignør is a fast 28 miles from Copenhagen on the E4 (A3) highway."

"TIME AND WEATHER:"

"The best time of year for this trip is between the beginning of May and the end of September, when the days are longer and the weather generally fair. The castle, however, can be quite crowded during July and August, particularly on weekends. From October through April the castle closes earlier, but you can still see everything if you get off to an early start. All of the major sights are open daily. It is a wise idea to bring along a small umbrella just in case."

"FOOD AND DRINK:"

"The lunch hour will probably fall between the end of the Helsingborg walk and the start of that in Helsingør. Fortunately, there is a fairly good selection of restaurants  near both of these places, with the widest choice being around the Stegade in Helsingør. Be sure to eat before going to Kronborg Castle as you will find little there to appease the appetite."

"FORMALITIES:"

"Bring your passport on this trip since it ventures into Sweden. Change at least a little money into Swedish Kronor, which is worth a bit more than the Danish Kroner. This can be done on the ferry or upon arrival."

"THE WALK — HELSINGBORD:"

Click on map to enlarge

"Upon disembarking at the ferry terminal (Färjestaden) (1) go through customs and walk straight ahead into the handsome Town Hall (Radhus) (2) of 1897. At this point turn right and follow Järnvägsgatan past docks until you get to a park on the left. Turn up Trädgardsgatan and make another left into Södra Storgatan, which leads to St. Mary's Church (Maria Kyrkan) (3). Originally built of sandstone in the Romanesque style during the 13th century, it was heavily reconstructed as a Gothic brick church in the 15th. The interior is noted for its magnificent altarpiece dating to 1450 as well as its late Renaissance pulpit of 1615."

"Continuing straight ahead, the street becomes Norra Storgatan, which has several fascinating old houses. At its end is the noted Jacob Hansens Hus (4) of 1641, the oldest half-timbered house in town. Opposite this is a small square with a fountain in memory of the famous 16th-century Danish astronomer Tycho Brahe, who lived in Helsingbord."

"Turn right up Langvinkelsgatan until you get to a tiny alleyway on the right called Kärngränden. This leads to the Kärnan (5), a 126-foot-high fortified tower erected in the 14th century. Once part of a vast fortress begun in the 11th century, Kärnan is all that remains of Helsingbord's medieval defenses. It is one of the most outstanding buildings from the Middle Ages remaining in Scandinavia. The interior rooms, including a kitchen and a chapel, are quite interesting, while the view from the top across the sound is breathtaking."

"Stroll through Slottshagen Park and make a left onto Bergaliden, which becomes Kopparmöllegatan. Follow this modern street to Hälsovägen where you again turn left and descend along a busy thoroughfare going through Oresund Park. At the bottom you will pass a strikingly contemporary theater and impressive concert hall. A final left there onto Drottninggatan will return you to the Town Hall (2), just a few steps from the ferry terminal (1). Board the boat of the SJ line — the one you came over on — and return to Denmark."

"THE WALK — HELSINGØR:"

"Arriving at the ferry terminal (6), turn right and walk along Havnegade past the shipyards. Make a right onto Kronborgvej. To your left you will see Grønnehave Station (7) from which vintage steam train excursions depart on Sundays in summer."

"Continue along the same road to the entrance of Kronborg Castle (8), The Elsinore of Shakespearean fame. This is the most magnificent Renaissance building in all Scandinavia. On its site King Eric of Pomerania built, around 1425, an earlier fortress to impose his newly established toll on ships passing through the straits. Parts of this are incorporated in the foundations of the present structure. In 1574 construction was begun on the castle we see today, which was completed in 1585. A terrible fire in 1629 swept through most of it, causing considerable damage. Restoration following the original plans was started a few years later. The interior, however, reflected the tastes of that time, as it still does. Two years of occupation by the Swedes starting in 1658 resulted in further changes. Throughout the 18th century the outer bastions were enlarged and in 1785 the castle became a military installation; a role it was to play until 1922. Since then, Kronborg has been renovated to as close an approximation of its original state as possible."

"Upon entering the castle, buy a combination ticket for the State Apartments, Casements, and Maritime Museum. Although sparsely furnished, the Apartments (9) are very interesting. Be sure to see the Great Hall on the third floor, the largest such room in northern Europe. The Chapel in the south wing was spared from the flames of 1629 and preserves its 16th-century appointments. The highlight of the visit is a descent unto the Casements (10), which can be seen only on a guided tour. Groups are taken at frequent intervals through the dark dungeons and underground passageways, stopping to examine the statue of Ogier the Dane (photo, right) who, according to legend, will spring to life should Denmark ever be invaded. Ogier must have been asleep in 1940. When you return to the courtyard, drop in at the Maritime Museum (11) in the north wing. Here you will find fascinating displays relating to Denmark's long history of shipping, trade, and colonization. No tour of the castle is complete without a stroll along the Outer Bastions (12) that the ghost allegedly appeared to Hamlet, a scene very easy to reconstruct in your mind's eye."

"Saying farewell to Kronborg and the drama so long associated with it, return along Kronborgveg to Kongensgade and turn left into St. Annagade. To your left is the Carmelite Monastery (Von Frue Kloster) (13), founded in 1430. Enter the gate and wander around its quietly picturesque precincts. While there, pay a visit to the Church of St. Mary. The famous 17th-century composer Diderik Buxtehude was organist here between 1660 and 1668. He was born a few blocks away in 1637, the son of the organist at St. Olaf's."

"Some very narrow and charming streets follow. Turn left immediately and then right onto Kirkestraede. This brings you to St. Olaf's Cathedral (Sankt Olai Kirke) (14), built in 1521 on the site of a 12th-century church. Follow St. Olaigade to Bjergegade and turn right. In a block you will come to Helsingør's main market square, the Axeltorv. At its far end make a left on Kampergade, then right onto Stjernegade. This entire route is lined with fascinating old buildings and courtyards. Again reaching St. Olaigade, turn right to Fiolgade, taking it to the pedestrians-only Stengade. A left here reveals a very well-preserved street which now serves as a shopping area. All along it are numerous cafés and restaurants at which to sit down and relax after a busy day's exploration. When you are ready to return to Copenhagen, take the narrow Brostraede to an open square called Tolbod Plads, across from which is the Train Station (15)."

Copyright © 1980 Earl Steinbicker.

Although written nearly 30 years ago, this trip can still be made with only minor changes. Note that the original guide of 1980 used the alternative spelling of Hälsingbord for the Swedish town. Here I use the preferred spelling. For up-to-date information check the following websites:

For train schedules: W: dsb.dk

For rail passes: W: scanrail.com

For information about the castle: W: kronborgslot.dk

For tourist information about Denmark: W: visitdenmark.com

For information about Scandinavia: W: goscandinavia.com

RETURN TO GREAT TRIPS / EUROPE INDEX

The Avedon Years, Part XXIII

Photographing Hair in the Sun

Continuing on the subject of Richard Avedon's commercial work is this  reminiscence of the trips we took for one of his major advertising clients, Clairol hair products. It was work like this that made possible his world-famous portraiture by providing the income that supported it.

The first such trip that I was involved with as studio manager was in December 1962, and it took us to Phoenix, Arizona for about a week. What was needed for glowing hair shots, besides abundant daylight, was dry air so that the styles would stay in place long enough. Working in a damp place like Florida would have been distastrous. We also needed pure sunlight, unfiltered by pollution or atmosphere, since color accuracy was absolutely critical. Hair is a tricky thing to photograph as it has a mirror-like surface that reflects whatever is around it.

Arriving a few days early at the Mountain Shadows resort in Paradise Valley, between Phoenix and Scottsdale, we had some fun before the work began. Dick always wanted to visit Frank Lloyd Wright's architectural studios and school at Taliesin West (photo, right) in Scottsdale, so I drove him there and we got a private tour. It was here that some of Wright's greatest works were designed, including the Guggenheim Museum in New York.

He also heard about a wonderful opportunity for horseback riding in the desert, and made arrangements. A group of us took off long before dawn, driving across miles of unpaved desert roads to an isolated cabin lit only by kerosene lamps. There we were met by our cowboy guide, and had a real manly breakfast of steak and brandy. At the first light of day we mounted our horses. I had only been on one of these beasts once before, and didn't really know how to drive it. Nevermind. The horse knew the way, and showed me who was boss by getting as close as possible to every cactus plant we passed, short of stabbing me with those prickly needles. But we survived, and it was great fun. The photo above shows part of our group at the crack of dawn. The one below shows the country we rode through. I snapped this from horseback as the sun rose.

Finally, we got to work. Our locations for photography, as I remember, were around the grand old Arizona Biltmore Hotel in Phoenix and in a public park. All of the work was done with Rolleiflex 2.8 TLR cameras loaded with 120 size Ektachrome film. The emulsions had been carefully tested by our color lab before the trip, as different batches of this film varied slightly in color balance and were effected by aging. White reflectors were used to control the daylight, and exposures determined by a Norwood Director meter.

The badly damaged photo above was snapped by Avedon during a lunch break. The guy at the bottom is the famed hairstylist Enrico Caruso. Behind him, from left, are assistant Jim Houghton (who later became my business partner), me, and the art director from the ad agency, whose name I have forgotten. I do remember asking him why we were being so extravagant with the client's money, and he answered that if we didn't spend it the budget for the next trip would be lower! Oh, those were the days!

The next trip for the same client took us to Las Vegas, again for the dry desert air and plentiful sunshine. We stayed at The Sands, long associated with the Rat Pack and sadly torn down a few years ago. Our first full day there was spent sitting around the pool, practicing a sure-fire system of winning at Blackjack. I memorized all the moves, then tried my luck in the casino that evening. And wound up two hundred dollars ahead! In those days they didn't use chips; instead it was done with those big old silver dollars, so my pockets were really bulging with the night's winnings. Sadly, I lost it all the next evening, but at least broke even and had two nights of free drinks.

Wherever we went on location, if there was a Trader Vic's restaurant we had to visit it. Avedon  just loved the tacky atmosphere, the phony "Polynesian" dishes, and the crazy rum drinks. Like the others we went to in San Francisco, Palm Springs, Miami and elsewhere, this one was dripping in South Seas decor and bird-call music. After that we took in a floor show at The Sands.

A local mob boss invited Dick to his home. He was a bit nervous about this but also excited, so he went. I drove him there and met the gang. As it turned out they were very cordial, and treated him as a celebrity.

After a few days, work began. Not in town, but well out in the desert. Again, we used Rolleis loaded with Ektachrome film, and controlled the light with white reflectors. Assisting us on this trip was Richard Kaperka, who had previously worked for Irving Penn. Others present, besides the models and art director, were Dick's wife Evelyn, his sales representative Laura Kanelous, and her husband John.

Everything turned out well on both trips, but after that budgets were reduced and trips became more spartan. A few years later, after Jim and I formed our own studio, we did a lot of studio work for Clairol, mostly for use on their packaging. This continued for 8 or 10 years. Then the company was bought out by a major pharmaceutical firm — one that had accountants who demanded that photographers bid for the work. The low bid was for far less than we could profitably work for, so it was goodbye to a good client. It was great while it lasted.

MORE ABOUT AVEDON'S ADVERTISING PHOTOGRAPHY

NEXT ON THIS THREAD

RETURN to the Avedon Years Index.

Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany

Here's another chapter from my recent guidebook, Daytrips Bavaria. This one ties in nicely with two others already posted on this blog that describe Little Adventures atop Germany's highest mountain and a nearby musical town on the Austrian border.

Trip 6

Garmisch-Partenkirchen

It was the Winter Olympics of 1936 that made Garmisch-Partenkirchen famous. Formerly two separate resort towns, they were merged for that event and have shared the unwieldy name ever since. Neatly split down the middle by the Partnach stream, with Garmisch to the west and Partenkirchen — once the Roman settlement of Parthanum — to the east, the combined entity has become Germany's leading center for winter sports. Today, most people just call it "Garmisch," as will this book.

Mountains are what Garmisch is all about. The town lies in a broad, flat valley at the foot of the higest peak in Germany, the Zugspitze, and is surrounded on all sides by towering Alps, whose bases literally run right into the village streets. Despite immense popularity, Garmisch remains remarkably unspoiled in its easygoing Bavarian manner.

By getting off to a very early start and cutting the tour short, it is possible to combine this trip in the same day with the one to the Zugspitze, covered in the next chapter. With its wide range of accommodations, the town also makes an excellent base for daytrips to Oberammergau, Mittenwald, or Füssen, all served by local buses.

GETTING THERE:

Trains depart Munich's main station hourly for the 90-minute trip to Garmisch-Partenkirchen, with return service until mid-evening.

By Car, Garmisch-Partenkirchen is 89 km (55 miles) south of Munich via the A-95 Autobahn and the B-2 road.

PRACTICALITIES:

The resort is open all year round, but the Partnachklamm may be closed after a heavy snow or spring melt. Those making this walk should be prepared to get a trifle wet, and need suitable shoes. They might also want to bring along a folding umbrella and a small flashlight. The mountains can be chilly, even in summer. The local Tourist Information Office (Verkehrsamt) T: (08821) 180-700, W: garmisch-partenkirchen.de, is at Richard-Strauss-Platz 2, in the center of Garmisch near the casino. Garmisch has a population of about 27,000.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Some good restaurants are:

Reindl's Restaurant of the Partenkirchner Hof (Bahnhofstr. 15, 2 blocks east of the station) Well known for its international European cuisine. Dress up and reserve, T: (08821) 943-870. X: mid-Nov. to mid-Dec. €€€

Mühlenstube (Hotel Obermühle, 4 blocks west of the casino) A dining room famous for its seafood. Reservations advised. T: (08821) 70-40. €€€

Gasthof Fraundorfer (ludwigstr. 24, near the Folk Museum) A rustic Bavarian inn, somewhat touristy but fun. T: (08821) 92-70. X: Tues., Wed. lunch. €€

Spago (Partnachstr. 50, 2 blocks northeast of the station) Modern Italian, Mediterranean, and International cuisine, with good-value lunch specials, all in a casual setting. T: (08821) 966-555. € and €€

Hofbräustüberl (Chamonixstr. 2, between the station and the tourist office) Meaty Bavarian dishes, indoors or out. T: (08821) 717-16. €

There are also several inexpensive, rustic places along the way to the Partnachklamm, and a pleasant café atop the Wank.

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leave the Train Station (1) and follow the map along the Partnach stream to the Olympic Ski Stadium (2). Accommodating about 80,000 spectators, this gigantic outdoor structure was built by the Nazi regime as a showcase. Removing the swastikas did little to improve the architecture, but functionally it is still excellent and remains in use every winter. The outdated ski jump was demolished in April 2007 and will be replaced with a new one in 2008. Entry is free.

Follow the road leading away from town for an easy and pleasurable walk in the woods to the dramatic Partnachklamm, one of the most memorable sights in the Bavarian Alps. In about one mile, level all the way, you will come to the tiny Graseckbahn cable car (3). Ride this to its upper station, near which refreshments are available. Note that it is also possible to enter the Partnachklamm from this lower level without using the cable car.

Cross the terrace and continue along a trail with spectacular views, then descend a steep path to the upper end of the *Partnachklamm (4). This wildly romantic gorge, only a few feet wide but up to 263 feet deep, is filled with torrents of rushing white water. A narrow footpath with guardrails has been carved from the sheer rock sides, at times tunneling through impossible passages. You'll get a little wet, but that's a small price to pay for such a breathtaking experience. Closed during spring melt and in heavy snow. €.

Leaving the gorge will put you back on the forest road to the Olympic Ski Stadium. Return there and either walk or take a bus to the Werdenfels Folk Museum (Heimatmuseum) (5) on Ludwigstrasse, where you can see an exhibition of mountain life in olden times. T: (08821) 21-34. Open Tues.-Fri., 10-1 and 3-6; weekends 10-1. €.

Now follow the map to the early-18th-century Pilgrimage Church of St. Anton (6), going past some remarkable Stations of the Cross along the hilly path. The interior of this chapel, with its frescoed oval dome and elaborate plaster work, is quite attractive and well worth the climb. On the way in you will pass a touching display of plaques, some with photographs, in memory of local sons who never returned from the last two wars.

The Philosophenweg, a trail with stunning views of the Alps, leads to the Schützenhaus. From there take a steep but short footpath to the lower station of the Wankbahn cable car (7). Board one of the small cabins for a lift up the mountain, but don't get off at the first stop. Stay on all the way to the Wank Summit (8) for the most glorious panorama possible of the Zugspitze and the Wetterstein range towering over a toy-like Garmisch, safely nestled in its valley below. There is a sunny outdoor café to help you enjoy the scene even more. T: (08821) 797-979. Operates daily 9-5, closed in winter except Christmas to New Year's Day. Summer season begins late April. Roundtrip fare: €€€.

There are several easy trails of about one mile along the ridge, offering great views and a chance for a nice walk.

At 5,850 feet, the summit is a center for the thrilling sport of hang gliding. This is a fast way down for some brave souls, but you will probably prefer to return on the cable car.

Leave the lower station and follow the map through Partenkirchen and into Garmisch. A path along the Garmisch stream brings you to the Kurpark, from which it is a short stroll to the Old Church (Alte Kirche) (9). Located in a picturesque district, its origins may predate the spread of Christianity into this area. Or at least according to local tradition. Some of the mural paintings date as far back as the 13th century. The church itself was originally Romanesque, but later rebuilt in the Gothic style.

Take a look down Frühlingstrasse, a colorful street of quaint chalets. Straight ahead, at Zoeppritzstrasse 42, is the villa of the composer Richard Strauss, who died in Garmisch in 1949.

Along the way back to the station, you might want to stop at the Casino (Spielbank) (10) for a fling with Lady Luck, where games of roulette, blackjack, and poker begin at 3 p.m. For the less wealthy there are slot machines, and you don't even have to dress up. Alternatively, visit the Olympic Ice Sports Center (11), which seats 12,000 spectators under one roof and is the largest in Europe. Close to this and adjacent to the train station is the Zugspitz Bahnhof (12), from which private cog-wheel trains depart for an excursion up the Zugspitze Mountain by train and cable car, as described in the next chapter.

Copyright © 2007 by Earl Steinbicker. Color added to map for web use. Color photos courtesy of Garmisch-Partenkirchen Tourist Office.

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The Avedon Years, Part XXII

AVEDON'S OTHER SIDE

Richard Avedon (1923-2004) is world renowned for his amazing portait and fashion photography, yet there was more to his talent than that fame suggests. Specifically, how did he ever afford to take those fantastic pictures? He was not born super rich, and most of the photographs for which he is remembered probably cost more to take than they ever earned. As his onetime assistant (1952-56 and 1960-62) and studio manager (1962-65), I was well aware of the expenses involved.

For example, in 1962 Dick and I flew to London, stayed a few days, hired a research assistant, rented lighting equipment, and drove to a remote corner of Wales — all to take a portrait of philosopher Bertrand Russell. On another occasion we flew to Palm Springs and checked into a luxury resort for several days to do a single portrait of former president Eisenhower. These are just a few examples of the costs involved when the subject could not (or would not) come to his New York studio, as frequently happened.

The overhead on those midtown Manhattan studios was not cheap, either. Besides himself, we usually had a staff of about six: three assistants, a secretary, a receptionist, and a bookkeeper. Sometimes more. About 5,000 square feet of choice real estate cost a little bit, too.

Many of his most famous works during that time were published by Harper's Bazaar magazine, which really never paid very well  —  usually nowhere near covering the costs involved.

So how did he do it?

Advertising. That's how.

Avedon was a genius at advertising photography, and a good businessman to boot. During the time I was there most of our activities centered on commercial work. This paid the bills and allowed him to do what he loved most — portraiture and fashion photography. His roster of clients included such brands as Revlon, Helene Rubenstein, Clairol, Maidenform, Hertz Car Rental, and DuPont. Especially DuPont, which had a long-running program of subsidized advertising for clothing manufacturers who used fabrics made from their chemicals. It seemed we were doing these nearly every week. The photo on the right shows Dick positioning a model for a Helene Rubenstein ad, which I snapped at Round Hill in Jamaica.

So, those stunning images gracing museums around the world were really made possible by the grubby hands of commerce!

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