Life's Little Adventures

Piber Stud Farm, Austria

Equestrians and other horse lovers will thoroughly enjoy this daytrip to the home of fabulous Lipizzaner stallions, taken straight from the pages of my recent guidebook Daytrips Austria.

 

For those traveling from Vienna, Graz can be reached in 2-1/2 hours by train.

 

Trip 13

Piber Stud Farm

and Bärnbach

A Daytrip from Graz

Fans of Vienna’s acclaimed Spanish Riding School may want to make the Stud Farm at Piber their first choice for an easy daytrip out of Graz. This is the home of the fabulous Lipizzaner stallions, where they are bred and where they are raised before journeying to Vienna for training and exhibition. Visitors to the farm are treated to an introductory video, a museum, and finally a tour of the stables. With luck, you might see a stud presentation. In any case, if you like horses, you will love this place.

While there, two other villages in the immediate vicinity offer their own attractions. Köflach has a modest museum of local life, while Bärnbach has an amazing church completely redone by the contemporary Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser as well as a renowned glass-blowing factory that can be toured.

Although this trip can be made by public transportation, doing so involves either a few miles of walking, or the use of local cabs and infrequent buses. You will be much better off driving there.

 GETTING THERE:

By Car, take the A-2 to the Mooskirchen exit, the local roads for about 10 miles to Köflach. From there it’s about two miles north along Piberstrasse to the stud farm. For Bärnbach, head east about two miles, passing the church and then the glass-making center.

By Train or Bus, take the private GKB railway/bus service  from Graz (main station) to Köflach, then walk two miles north to Piber. Walk again to Bärnbach, then to its train station. Either train or bus runs more-or-less hourly on Mondays through Saturdays, and less often on Sundays and holidays. Schedules at W: GKB.at. The same tickets are valid for both the GKB trains and buses.

PRACTICALITIES:

The Stud Farm at Piber is open daily, and visitors should arrive between 9 and 2:30 in April-Oct.; 11-1:30 in Nov.-March. The Glass Center is open from March through December, Monday through Saturdays. Some useful websites to check are: piber.com, Lipizzanerheimat.at, and stoelzle.at.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Caballero (in Piber Castle, at the stud farm) Luxurious dining on Spanish and Austrian cuisine. T: (3144) 3323-170. €€€

Gasthof Bardel (Fesselweg 1, by the stud farm at Piber) Simple Austrian country cooking, convenient location. T: (03144) 34-22. €

Ratskeller Bärnbach (Schulstrasse 1, near the church in Bärnbach) Austrian food, served indoors or out.  T: (03142) 620-20. €

Alten Lind (Haupstrasse 1 in Bärnbach) A good-value choice for local dishes. X: Mon. T: (03142) 615-00. €

 

 

LOCAL ATTRACTIONS:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Whether you come by car, train, or bus, your visit begins in the village of Köflach (1). While there, you might want to visit the small Museum der Stadt Köflach with its exhibits of local life including the interior of an old-time farmhouse. Bahnhofplatz, T: (03144) 251-970. Opening times vary. Donation.

Now drive or hike about two miles northeast on Piberstrasse to the number one attraction:

*FEDERAL STUD IN PIBER (Bundesgestüt Piber) (2), T: (03144) 33-23, W: piber.com. Open April through Oct., daily 9-5:30; Nov.-March, 9-11 and 1:30-4. €€€.

Dating from the early 18th century, the stud farm originally raised horses for the Austrian military. The famed Lipizzaner breed came from elsewhere, Lipizza in what is now Slovenia. When the Austro-Hungarian Empire was disbanded following World War I and Slovenia made a part of the newly-created Yugoslavia, the horses were brought here as both the climate and terrain were similar to that of Lipizza. Put under German control during World War II, they were shipped west and kept there until 1952 to prevent their falling into Russian hands.

Some 40 foals are born each year, but only a few of these stallions are chosen for training at the Spanish Riding School in Vienna. Later, they return to Piber for breeding. Some of the others are sold as the stud farm actually produces too many horses, so if you’re in the market, here’s the place to look! An unusual feature of the gentle Lipizzaners is that they are born dark and do not acquire their distinctive white coats until they are about four to ten years old.

A small country road leads in about two miles to the village of Bärnbach. You will soon come to the fantastic St. Barbara Kirche (3), an unbelievable sight right on the main road. Until 1987 this was just another country church, but then the town commissioned the controversial Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser (1928-2000) to redo the whole structure in his inimitable manner. Its exterior is a series of curving shapes with brilliant colors and abstract religious symbolisms, while the interior continues the theme without losing its identity as a place of worship. A leaflet available inside explains the meaning behind all the strange sights. Piberstrasse, T: (03142) 625-81. Open daily. Donation.

Bärnbach has long been noted as a center of glass-making, a tradition that continues today. Be sure to visit the Stölzle Glas Center (4), where you can watch glass-blowers at work, tour the factory, and see the museum. Hochtregisterstasse 1, T: (03142) 629-50, W: stoelzle.at. Open March through December, Mon.-Fri. 9-5, Sat. 9-1; also on Sun. and holidays from May-Oct., 9-1. €€.

From here you can drive back to Graz, take the GKB bus from the town center, or walk a mile and a half out Dr. Niederdorfer Strasse past the train tracks, then take a left to the GKB train station.

Text and map copyright © 2008 by Earl Steinbicker. Photos copyright © Tourismusverband Lipizzanerheimat.

Other Daytrips in Austria on this blog are: Burgenland, Eisriesenwelt, Hallein, Hallstatt, Hafelekar (Innsbruck), Salzburg, Schneeberg, Wachau Valley, Kahlenburg Heights (Vienna).

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The Avedon Years, Part XLIII

When Photography Became Art 

 

 Richard Avedon (1923-2004) was the first photographer to be widely recognized as a true artist in the sense that painters and sculptors are. Works by other photographers have of course been exhibited in major art museums for decades, but only as an adjunct to the museums' serious collections.

Oddly, back in the early 1960s I discussed this with him, and he opined that photographers were artisans and not really to be considered in the same league as, say, Picasso. This belief began to change in 1962 when he mounted his first museum exhibition, at the Smithsonian's Arts and Industries Building in Washington D.C. His second book, Nothing Personal, in 1964 was a turning point although it was savaged by critics who scoffed at the idea of fashion photographers having anything serious to say. 

Still, Avedon's reputation as a major creative force in American art rested almost solely on his portraiture. He himself believed that to be his legacy, and his fashion work as a diversion that earned him money. Which brings us to the current exhibition at the International Center of Photography in New York City, billed as Avedon Fashion 1944-2000. Running from May 15 through September 6, 2009, it removes any doubt that fashion pictures can be just as worthy of being called "art" as portraits, reportage, landscapes, or what have you. 

In my opinion, Avedon's fashion photography — especially the earlier work up until the mid-1960s — outshines even the best of his portraits and will be remembered long after the subjects of his politically-charged portraits have fallen into the dustbin of history.

 

Perhaps the most iconic of his fashion images are those of Dovima and the Elephants (above), a series with different gowns shot at the Cirque d'Hiver (Winter Circus) in Paris in August 1955 for the Harper's Bazaar Fall Collections issue. The fashions were by Dior. Although I was his second assistant at that time, I was unhappily not present on this job — only the number one guy (Frank Finocchio) got the coveted annual Paris assignment. It was shot using natural overhead skylight with an 8x10 Deardorff camera. Dovima was one of Avedon's favorite models and was great fun to be around. Her real name was Dorothy Virginia Margaret Juba, which she shortened to Dovima. Born in 1927 and raised in Queens, New York, she had an accent that many a comedian would have died for.

 

Another one of his favorite models was Susy Parker, whose face graced his photos for quite a few years. This shot was taken in the old Harper's Bazaar studio on Rue Jean-Goujon in Paris, which was replaced in 1965 with a new one that I helped design. In this, the old studio, the cramped darkroom of the world's master printer, André Gremola, was just behind the background wall. This shot was also done with an 8x10 Deardorff camera.

By the early 1960s Avedon was becoming increasingly disenchanted with the fashion world. Not fashion photography per se, but the people who inhabit the strange world of haute-couture. Along with his co-conspirator Marvin Israel (1924-1984), who at the time was the Art Director of Harper's Bazaar, he made his bold statement while photographing the 1962 Fall Collections in Paris. I was the prime assistant on all of these shoots and still have vivid memories of it — especially the celebratory late-night dinner after it was all over, with Dick and his wife Evie, Mike, Susy, Marvin, and myself. 

Instead of the usual romantic studio or location shots, the pair presented fashions in the context of a gossip column inspired by the steamy affairs between Elizabeth Taylor and Richard Burton during shooting of the movie Cleopatra. Here are some of the results: 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

He never got away with that again. And Marvin was replaced as Bazaar's Art Director soon afterwards. The memory of this just won't go away, in fact I was interviewed about it by the BBC in London in August 2008 — and again in February 2009 for a leading American arts magazine.

Most of the time, however, his fashion photography was just plain elegant, as in the image on the left of model Carmen skipping along the streets of Paris, obviously inspired by the work of the 1930's photographer Martin Munkácsi.

This is only a tiny hint at what visitors to the museum will find; after all, it covers some 56 years of fashion photography, with over 200 photographs on display. Check it out here.

 And while you're at it, find out about the many books and videos devoted to his art.

 

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York, England

Here's a really exciting Daytrip for railpass holders visiting London, who'll get their money's worth on this lengthy excursion. It's taken from my guidebook Daytrips London — which is presently being totally revised for a new Eighth Edition due in 2010. In the meantime, the current Seventh Edition remains valid.

 

Trip 47

*York

Two hundred miles may seem like a long way to go for a daytrip, but York is really worth it. Incredibly, the train ride there takes less than two hours, zipping along at up to 140 mph! And if you're driving, why not stay overnight and explore the city at a more leisurely pace? Either way, York also makes a wonderful stopover en route to Scotland or the North of England.

The ancient Britons called it Caer Ebrauc, but York was really established in AD 71 by the Romans. Their fortress, known as Eboracum, became the headquarters of the Sixth Legion. The emperor Hadrian visited in AD 121, and Constantine the Great was proclaimed Emperor of Rome there in 306. After the fall of the empire and a dark era of destruction, York reemerged as the Saxon town of Eoforwic, playing a prominent part in the spread of Christianity and learning. In 867 it fell to the Vikings and acquired the named Jorvik, which lasted until 944 when it became part of the Anglo-Saxon kingdom of England.

William the Conqueror marched north to York following the Norman Conquest; putting down all revolts, scorching the earth around him, and building the inevitable castle. The city flourished as a religious center during the 13th century, but entered a period of decline in the 16th after Henry VIII put an end to the Church's power. Although little affected by the Industrial Revolution, York came back to life with the arrival of the railways in the 1830s, and has prospered ever since as a major communications center. For visitors, however, its chief attraction is its magnificently preserved past, those ancient stones that still bring to life the Roman, Viking, medieval, and later eras.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains operated by National Express and Grand Central Rail depart London's King's Cross Station at least hourly for the less-than-two-hour ride to York. Return trains operate until mid-evening; service is reduced on Sundays and holidays.

By Car, York is about 200 miles north of London. Take the M1 beyond Leeds, then the A64 into York. It is advisable to use the Park & Ride facility along the A64 at Askham Bar, taking the bus from there into the city. 

PRACTICALITIES:

Most of the attractions in York are open daily throughout the year, but some close or have shorter hours on Sundays and/or holidays. The local Tourist Information Centre, T: (01904) 550099, W: visityork.org, is in the DeGrey Rooms on Exhibition Square near Bootham Bar. There is also a handy branch in the train station. Either can help you find accommodations should you decide to stay overnight. Ask them about the economical York Pass, available for one, two, or three days.

York is in the county of North Yorkshire and has a population of 181,000.

FOOD AND DRINK:

York abounds in colorful, inexpensive restaurants and pubs. Some good choices for lunch are:

19 Grape Lane (19 Grape Lane, 2 blocks south of York Minster) Light, high-quality English lunches, both traditional and contemporary. T: (01904) 636-366. X: Sun. ££

Betty's (6 St. Helens Sq., 3 blocks southwest of York Minster) A traditional tea room with old-fashioned home cooking. T: (01904) 659-142. £

Plunket's (9 High Petergate, just south of York Minster) A friendly place for modern dishes, including Mexican and American Southwest specialties. There is an outdoor patio in season. T: (01904) 637-722. £

Ye Olde Starre Inn (40 Stonegate, 2 blocks southwest of York Minster) Traditional pub food in a Victorian setting, with an outdoor beer garden. T: (01904) 623-063. £

Oscars Wine Bar & Bistro (8 Little Stonegate, 2 blocks south of York Minster) A wide variety of creative dishes, including vegetarian, served indoors or in a courtyard. T: (01904) 652-002. £

 

Click on map to enlarge

 

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leaving the train station (1), you may prefer to begin with a nearby major attraction, or to save this treat for the end of the tour. Either way, don’t miss the:

*NATIONAL RAILWAY MUSEUM (2), Leeman Rd., York, T: (08448) 153-139, W: nrm.org.uk. Open daily 10-6. Closed Dec. 24-26. Free except for special events. Restaurant. Café. Gift shop. 

 

Located in refurbished railway buildings, this is the largest museum of its kind it Britain and probably the best in the world. Anyone who loves old trains will be absolutely mesmerized by the displays, ranging from a working replica of the 1829 Rocket to the Eurostar of today. Included are Queen Victoria’s private cars, the world’s fastest steam engine, and many, many others, exhibited both indoors and out in the yards. Allow plenty of time for this magnificent attraction.

Return via Leeman Road and, passing through the city walls, turn left on Station Road. Cross over the River Ouse on Lendal Bridge, then make a left into Museum Gardens, which you may want to visit. On your right is the Multangular Tower (3), a corner of the original Roman walls. Its lower 19 feet date from about AD 300, while the upper parts are medieval. A path to the left leads to the Hospitum (4), a 16th-century guest house of St. Mary's Abbey. Extensive archaeological collections are displayed on its two floors. Continuing along the path, you'll soon come to the ruins of the Abbey (5) itself, once the most important Benedictine monastery in the North of England. Next to this is the Yorkshire Museum (6), featuring splendid galleries of Anglo-Saxon and Viking life along with other ancient diggings. Its most important treasure is the famous *Middleham Jewel, a 15th-century gold pendant fitted with a whopper of a sapphire. There are also excellent special exhibitions. T: (01904) 687-687, W: yorkshiremuseum.org.uk. Open daily 10-5, closed Dec. 24-26, Jan. 1. Free. 

Leave the gardens by the same gate and turn left on Museum Street. Another left at St. Leonard's takes you past the tourist office and the York Art Gallery on Exhibition Square, where you can see some six centuries of European paintings.  T: (01904) 687-687. Open daily 10-5. Free. Museum shop.

Facing this is Bootham Bar (7), a defensive bastion dating from early Norman times. Cross the intersection and climb the steps to the top of the City Walls. From here the walk reveals wonderful glimpses of the Minster and its gardens. Descend at the next gate, medieval Monk Bar (8), and stroll down busy Goodramgate. The ending -gate, incidentally, is an old Viking word for street.

A right on College Street takes you past St. William's College (9), built in 1453 as a lodging for the Minster's chantry priests. It now serves as a general meeting place. Step through the doorway and enter the picturesque quadrangle, then continue on to the Treasurer's House (10). This 17th-century mansion, once the home of the Minster's treasurer, is well worth a visit for its gorgeous interior. T: (01904) 624-247, W: nationaltrust.org.uk. Open March through Oct., Sat.-Thurs., 11-4:30; Nov., Sat.-Thurs. 11-3 . Closed Fri., Dec.-Feb. ££. Tea room. Art gallery. 

A pathway leads through Dean's Park to the front entrance of:

*YORK MINSTER (11), T: (01904) 557-200, W: yorkminster.org. Open Mon.-Sat. 9-5; Sun. noon-3:45. Evensong Mon.-Fri. at 5, Sat.-Sun. at 4. Entrance ££. Foundations, Crypt, Treasury, Chapter House £, Tower: £, Everyplace ticket ££. The Foundations, Chapter House, and Tower are closed on Sun. mornings. Tea Rooms. Gift shop.

 

Both a cathedral and a minster, York Minster — the Cathedral Church of St. Peter —is the largest Gothic church in Britain. It stands on the site of the Roman military headquarters and of several earlier churches. The present structure was begun in 1220, requiring some 250 years to build. As you stroll around its spacious interior, be sure to see the *Chapter House just off the north transept, a wonder of medieval architecture whose conical roof spans a great distance without central support. Also in the north transept is the famous *Five Sisters Window — five giant lancets of 13th-century grisaille glass — and an astronomical clock of more recent date. Beyond the choir are several interesting chapels and the monumental Great East Window that celebrates the beginning and end of time in over 2,000 square feet of medieval stained glass.

While in the cathedral, you may want to climb 275 steps up the central tower for a bird's-eye view of the city. Another fascinating sight is the Foundations and Treasury, a spin-off of restoration work on the cathedral's foundations. Enter it by way of a staircase in the south transept. Here you can walk among the remains of the earlier churches and the Roman headquarters as well as see many of the Minster's treasures.

Leaving the Minster through the south doorway, make a left on Low Petergate, the Via Principalis of Roman York. At Goodramgate, turn left for a few yards and visit Holy Trinity Church (12), a small and extremely picturesque 14th-century church, now seldom used. Its box pews and Jacobean altar are quite interesting. T: (01904) 613-451, W: yorkholytrinity.org.uk. Open Tues.-Sat. 10-4. Closed Dec. 23-Jan. 7, Mon. Free.

 

 

Then cross King's Square and enter the *Shambles (photo, above) (13), one of the best-preserved medieval streets in Europe. Once the street of butchers, its overhanging, timbered buildings now house antique shops, booksellers, and similar enterprises.

At the end turn right onto Pavement, then make a left on Piccadilly, which leads to the Merchant Adventurer's Hall (14), built in the 14th century by the city's wealthiest trade guild. Visit the Great Hall and the Undercroft, where guild pensioners lived in cubicles as late as the 19th century. T: (01904) 654-818, W: theyorkcompany.co.uk. Open April through Sept., Mon.-Thurs. 9-5, Fri.-Sat. 9-3:30, Sun. noon-4; Oct.-March, Mon.-Sat. 9-3:30. £. 

Return on Piccadilly, turning left onto Coppergate, and visit the *Jorvik Viking Centre (15). Excavations here in recent years have unearthed the original Viking city of Jorvik, dating from the 10th century. Many of its buildings, now located beneath a modern shopping center, have been faithfully re-created. Together with Viking figures, sound effects, and even smells, these offer an opportunity to experience a glimpse of life in an age long past as you glide by in your magic timecar. At the end, you’ll see an actual dig, visit a lab where artifacts are studied, and enter a gallery filled with the actual objects of a thousand years ago. T: (01904) 615-505, W: jorvik-viking-centre.co.uk.  Open April-Oct., daily 10-5; Nov.-March daily 10-4. Closed Christmas Day. £££. Gift shop.

Stroll down to the Fairfax House (16), described as one of the finest 18th-century townhouses in England. Its sumptuously restored interior is filled with period furniture and clocks, and is a treat for the connoisseur. T: (01904) 655-543, W: fairfaxhouse.co.uk. Open March-Dec., Mon.-Thurs. and Sat. 11-4:30 Sun. 1:30-4:30. ££. 

Continue on to Clifford's Tower (17), a defensive fortification built in the 13th century to replace an earlier one erected by William the Conqueror. In 1684 an explosion blew the roof off, and it remains in that condition today. You can climb to the top for a nice view. T: (01904) 646-940, W: english-heritage.org.uk. Open April-Sept., daily 10-6; Oct. daily 10-5; Nov.-March, daily 10-4. ££. 

Just across the square is the:

*YORK CASTLE MUSEUM (18), T: (01904) 687-687, W: yorkcastlemuseum.org.uk. Open daily 9:30-5. £££.

The York Castle Museum is among the most extraordinary folk museums in the world and a must for every visitor to York. Allow plenty of time to see it, even at the expense of skipping other sights. Housed in two former prisons, the museum displays a nearly endless succession of rooms, buildings, and even entire streets of bygone eras, each stuffed to overflowing with just about every item imaginable. A working outdoor watermill on the River Foss is part of it, as is the untouched condemned cell of the old prison. The route through the museum is very well laid out — just follow it and you won't miss a thing.

Beyond this, stroll north on Tower and Clifford streets past several commercial attractions, including the spine-chilling York Dungeon (19). Like its London counterpart, the Dungeon does its best to scare patrons with a the darker side of English history. Catch the plague! Follow a highwayman to the gallows! Meet up with ghosts of Roman legionnaires! T: (01904) 632-599, W: thedungeons.com. Open April-Sept., 10:30-5, Oct., Feb., March, 10:30-4:30, Nov.-Jan. 11-4. £££.

Cross the Ouse Bridge and follow Micklegate to Micklegate Bar (20), a Norman archway from which the heads of traitors were once displayed. A walk from here along the top of the city walls will return you to the train station, which also houses the entertaining York Model Railway should you have a wait for your real train.

Copyright © 2003 by Earl Steinbicker, updated to 2009

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Füssen and Neuschwanstein, Germany

 

Nearly everyone who visits Bavaria goes to see Crazy Ludwig's castle at Neuschwanstein — mostly on guided tours. Here's a better way to do it on your own, taken directly from the latest editions of my guidebooks Daytrips Germany and Daytrips Bavaria.

 

 Trip 9

 

*Füssen and Neuschwanstein

 

A Daytrip from Munich

The most instantly recognized symbol of Germany is undoubtedly Neuschwanstein, a sight that graces the covers of numerous guidebooks, brochures, and travel posters. Everything a fairytale castle should be, "mad" King Ludwig II's most spectacular creation has even served as a model for Disneyland.

While countless tourists trek through it every year, relatively few visit the neighboring castle of Hohenschwangau — in which Ludwig was actually raised — and only a small minority venture down the road to the delightful frontier town of Füssen. This trip combines all three for an exciting day filled with memorable sights, far more than you would get on a guided bus tour.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains leave Munich's main station hourly for either Buchloe, where you change to a local for Füssen, or direct to Füssen. Check the schedule. Return service operates until mid evening. The journey takes about 2 hours each way.

By Car, leave Munich on the B-12 road, going west to Landsberg, then turn south on the B-17 to Hohenschwangau and Füssen for a total distance of 120 km (75 miles).

PRACTICALITIES:

The Royal Castles are open all year round, but are more crowded on weekends during the tourist season. There is a Tourist Information Office (Kurverwaltung) in Füssen at Kaiser-Maximilian-Platz, 3 blocks east of the station, T: (08362) 938-50, W: fuessen.de. Bicycles can be rented near the station all year round. Füssen has a population of about 14,000.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

Restaurants near the Royal Castles tend to be touristy, with better values in Füssen. Some good choices are:

IN FÜSSEN:

Gasthaus zum Schwanen (Brotmarkt 4, near Kloster St. Mang) Bavarian and Swabian dishes in a cozy setting. T: (08362) 61-74. X: Mon., mid-Jan. through mid-March. €

Gasthof zum Hechten (Ritterstr. 6, by the castle) An old favorite inn with Bavarian and Swabian dishes. T: (08362) 916-00. €

IN HOHENSCHANGAU:

Müller (Alpseestr. 14, near the bus stop) Country-style dining. T: (08362) 819-90. X: early Jan. through early March. €€€

Lisl und Jägerhaus (Neuschwanstein Str. 1, just south of the bus stop) Local and Continental cuisine. T: (08362) 88-70. €€

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leave the Füssen train station (1) and walk over to the bus stop across the street. Check the posted schedule of service to Hohenschwangau, also called Königsschlösser or Royal Castles. From this you can determine the amount of time available for exploring Füssen, allowing at least three hours for Neuschwanstein and Hohenschwangau castles.

Stroll down Bahnhofstrasse to Kaiser-Maximilian-Platz, where the tourist office is located. From here turn right on Reichenstrasse, a charming pedestrians-only street lined with outdoor cafés, which leads to Kloster St. Mang (2). This former Benedictine abbey was founded in the 8th century and rebuilt during the 18th. It now serves as the town hall and contains a small museum. In the courtyard is the Chapel of St. Anne, noted for its unusual Totentanz (Dance of Death) painting from 1602, and the parish church with its ancient 9th-century crypt.

Climb uphill to the Hohes Schloss (Castle) (3), once a residence of the bishops of Augsburg, who claimed it after Emperor Heinrich VII forfeited on a loan they had made to him. The present structure, curiously painted, dates from the 13th and 16th centuries. Long before that, in the 3rd century AD, the Romans had a castle on the same site to protect their Via Claudia road that ran from Verona to Augsburg. The splendid Knights' Hall and other rooms, now an art museum, may be visited. T: (08362) 903-146. Open Apr.-Oct., Tues.-Sun. 11-4; Nov.-March, Tues.-Sun. 2-4. €.

Now follow the map to the Lech Waterfall (4), a very beautiful spot just yards from the Austrian border. Cross the Maxsteg footbridge over the cascade and return via Tiroler Strasse. Once across the main bridge, bear right onto Brotmarkt and Brunnengasse, then return to the bus stop.

Board the bus to Hohenschwangau (Königsschlösser), a distance of about two miles. You could, of course, walk or drive there instead, or even rent a bike near the station. Check the posted return bus schedule upon arrival and purchase your tickets at the booth on Alpseestrasse.

From the Hohenschwangau bus stop (5) it is a fairly steep climb via a woodland trail to Neuschwanstein Castle, with park benches provided en route. This can be avoided by taking one of the rather touristy horse-drawn carriages, or by a special bus (still requiring a little uphill trek), both of which start from a point opposite the bus stop, next to the parking lot. At the top of the climb, just below the castle, there is a restaurant and outdoor café where you can rest before tackling the main attraction.

 

View from Neuschwanstein Castle

*NEUSCHWANSTEIN CASTLE (6), T: (08362) 930-830, W: ticket-center-hohenschwangau.de. Tours April-Sept., daily 9-6; Oct.-March, daily 10-4. Closed Jan 1, Shrove Tues., Nov. 1, Dec. 24, 25, 31. Tickets are for timed mandatory tours in English or German, with audio devices for other languages. Visitors must be at the castle entrance at the specified time. Handicap assistance available on Wed. only by advance arrangement. €€.

 

Neuschwanstein Castle is pure fantasy. By comparison, King Ludwig II's other creations of Linderhof and Herrenchiemsee, although wildly extravagant, have at least some basis in reality — other kings have built lavish palaces for themselves before. For this one, however, there is no model except possibly the Wartburg in Thuringia. Ludwig was obsessed with strange notions of a transfigured past whose gods, knights, and swans form the hazy bedrock of Wagnerian opera. Completely withdrawn from the industrial world of the 19th century, this lonely monarch wrapped himself in a cloud of long-forgotten dreams, of which Neuschwanstein is simply the most spectacular manifestation. Painting of Ludwig arriving at Neuschwanstein, right.

 

The castle, rising from a rocky crag high above the Pöllat gorge, was designed by a theatrical scene-painter employed by the court. This was Ludwig's first creation, begun in 1869, but it remained unfinished at the time of his death 17 years later. He lived there for a total of 170 days, and it was from there that he was taken into custody after being declared insane. The young king's life ended tragically in the waters of Lake Starnberg the very next day.

 

Painting of Ludwig in 1887, left.

 

Enter the castle and join one of the very frequent guided tours, many of which are in English. Unlike the rococo fantasies of his later structures, Neuschwanstein is heavily Teutonic, with wall murals depicting those heroic sagas so dear to the hearts of Wagnerians.

After the tour you may want to take a short but invigorating walk to the *Marienbrücke (7) for some truly splendid views. Return to the bottom of the hill and visit:

HOHENSCHWANGU CASTLE (8), T: (08362) 930-830. Tours April-Sept., daily 9-6; Oct.-March, daily 10-4, closed Dec 24. €€.

 

Despite its excessive decoration, this Schloss (photo, left) has a homely, lived-in feel about it. Dating from the 12th century, it was heavily reconstructed by Ludwig's father, Maximilian II. The future king spent much of his youth here and was undoubtedly influenced by its dreamy, romantic atmosphere. It was here, too, that he entertained the composer Richard Wagner, who milked him for all he was worth.

From here, stroll down to the Pindarplatz (9) for another gorgeous view across the Alpsee, then return to the bus stop (5) and Füssen.

 

Text and map copyright © 2009 Earl Steinbicker

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The Avedon Years, Part XLII

Paying for Portraits?

To the very best of my knowledge, no one ever paid the renowned photographer Richard Avedon (1923-2004) to take their portrait. He would never have accepted any arrangement in which the sitter was also the client. To have done so would have compromised his total control of the situation, which for him would have been intolerable.

During the time that I assisted him (1952-57 and 1959-65) all of the portraits that he did — and there were many — were either for his personal satisfaction or commissioned by magazines for editorial use. Many of these later found their way into leading museums and photographic books, where they delight and enlighten audiences today.

Avedon chose his subjects carefully; they did not choose him. He also began by studying all he could find about them, deciding how he would portray them, and then inviting them to appear before his lens. Very few turned down these invitations despite his growing reputation for often producing less-than-flattering images. To have been photographed by Avedon was to have "arrived." 

In some ways, Avedon was more a psychologist than a photographer, and that is exactly why it is still so difficult to duplicate his "style." No combination of cameras, lighting, lenses, or films does the trick. He was even able to get results using coin-operated "Photomat" booths or even snapshot cameras! His true genius was an innate ability to manipulate people with a presence that was at once friendly and yet intimidating. 

Ah, that ubiquitous white background. It was, of course, there to isolate the sitter from their environment and present them in stark reality. Earlier in his career he often portrayed subjects in the context of their lives, as do most other photographers, but slowly began using the simplicity of a neutral white background and letting their own true personalities be revealed — for better or for worse, with no distracting props or settings. He had gained experience at this early on as he spent the wartime years in the Merchant Marine taking "mug shots" of sailors for ID records.

Among his many photographic books, three that are strictly of portraits rather than mixed with fashion and reportage are: Richard Avedon Portraits (2002), In The American West (2005), and Portraits of Power (2008).

 

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Bluebell Railway, England

Railfans Rejoice! One of the world's very best preserved steam railway lines is within easy reach of London, and you can have a fun day riding it. I first visited this line in the summer of 1975 with the idea of filming it for a proposed travel documentary series on cable TV. That fell through, but the idea reappeared in my Great Trips guides in the late 70s, and later in my Daytrips London guidebook in 1982. What follows is from my brand new 2011 Daytrips From London guidebook

 

 

Trip 20

A Daytrip from London

Bluebell

 

The glorious Age of Steam is alive and well on the Bluebell Railway! People who love old trains will rejoice in this delightful trip as they ride across unspoiled countryside in antique coaches hauled by locomotives that date as far back as 1872.

No mere amusement, the Bluebell was a working standard-gauge branch line from 1882 until 1958, when it closed for economic and political reasons. Preservation by a dedicated band of amateurs began the following year, and since 1960 the railway has become one of the most popular attractions in southeastern England. Being a non-profit organization, staffed largely by volunteers, has allowed it to devote much of its income to improvements. The Bluebell's growing collection of locomotives is equaled only by the National Railway Museum in York. Not only is the rolling stock collection growing, but so is the railway itself as it pushes north to East Grinstead where it will once again connect with Southern main line service to London. It now operates trains as far as Kingscote station, just a mile and a half from the ultimate goal, offering an 18-mile round trip. For a special treat, the Bluebell also features the Golden Arrow Pullman, a train of genuine Pullman cars dating from 1924, which must be booked in advance.

As an extra bonus, the National Trust's magnificent 18th-century Sheffield Park Garden is within easy walking distance of the Bluebell's southern terminus.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains operated by Southern depart London's Victoria Station frequently for the 55-minute ride to East Grinstead. From there, the Bluebell Railway operates bus service 473 to and from Kingscote Station, connecting with Bluebell trains. A joint ticket from London is available. On the few weekends when this is not running you can take public bus 270 from East Grinstead to Horsted Keynes instead, but this is slow and not recommended. NOTE: The extension of Bluebell tracks and rail service to East Grinstead should be completed sometime in 2010 or so, after which the bus will no longer be needed. It is best to check schedules online at SouthernRailway.com or by phone at (08451) 27-29-20. 

By Car, take the A23 and A22 south from London, going past East Grinstead, then the A275 to Sheffield Park Station and do the train trip in reverse as there is no parking at Kingscote. The total distance is about 45 miles. Going by car is preferred as it gives you more scheduling options.

PRACTICALITIES:

Open all year, the Bluebell Railway operates daily from May through October and during local school holidays; and on weekends throughout the year. Sheffield Park Station is open for viewing even when there are no trains running, daily 11 to 4, except Christmas Day. For current schedules check their website at Bluebell-Railway.co.uk or phone (08125) 720-800. For Golden Arrow Pullman information or reservations, T: (01825) 722-801 or check the website.

It's a good idea to check the website prior to your visit as schedules vary quite a bit, and different vintage locomotives and cars are used on different days. This way you can choose a date that features the equipment you're most interested in and, if you're coming by train, a date when the connecting bus from East Grinstead operates.

Fares vary according to distance and class of service, ranging from ₤₤ to ₤₤₤₤ for roundtrips. There is a bargain family rate, and a bargain combination fare that includes transport by rail and bus from London’s Victoria Station. Also offered is a combination ticket with Sheffield Park Gardens, below. BritRail passes are not accepted on the steam line.

The Bluebell Railway is partially handicap accessible, although it is best to inquire in advance about specific needs. Dogs are welcome everywhere except in food service areas, and have their own tickets. Smoking is not allowed anywhere. There is a dress code for Golden Arrow Pullman service.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

Complete inexpensive meals and snacks are available in the Puffers Restaurant (£), and snacks and real ale at the Bessemer Arms Pub (₤), both at Sheffield Park Station. The wonderful Victorian Refreshment Room (£) on platform 2 at Horsted Keynes Station serves draft beer and other beverages along with snacks. With advance reservations, you can dine aboard the luxurious Golden Arrow Pullman (£££).

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

 

Those coming by train will begin at Southern Railway's East Grinstead Station (1). A Bluebell Railway bus leaves from the front of the station, connecting with Bluebell steam trains. This takes you two miles to Kingscote Station (2), built in the Victorian style in 1882, abandoned in 1958, and lovingly restored in 1993. NOTE that by sometime in 2010 or so the Bluebell Railway will extend all the way to East Grinstead, directly connecting there with the Southern Railway from London. 

 

Board the train and enjoy the nine-mile *ride to Sheffield Park, the southern end of the line. Along the way you will pass the site of the former West Hoathly station before plunging into the half-mile-long Sharpthorne Tunnel (3). Next stop is Horsted Keynes (4) (photo, above), a former junction station where two lines met, and the northern terminus of the Bluebell from 1960 until 1992. There is often activity here as cars are shunted about. The carriage shed is usually busy with restoration projects on the large stock of vintage coaches. Other old cars are parked on sidings near the station; some of these may be inspected.

The journey continues to *Sheffield Park Station (5) (photo, left), the headquarters of the railway. You may visit its locomotive sheds, which house a large collection of steam engines ranging in age from over 130 years old to some built as late as 1958. On the far platform is a museum of railway relics. Those coming by car will begin their trip here at Sheffield Park, doing it in reverse.

While here, you may be interested in taking a half-mile walk to the Sheffield Park Garden (6), a lovely place with rare trees and shrubs spaced among four lakes at different levels. It was laid out by the famous landscape architect Capability Brown during the 18th century and is especially noted for its rhododendrons and azaleas in May and June, as well as for its water lilies, daffodils, bluebells, gentians, and autumn colors. T: (01825) 790-0231, W: nationaltrust.org.uk. Open March-Dec., Tues.-Sun. 10:30-5:30 or dusk; Jan.-Feb. weekends only, 10:30-4 or dusk. Open Bank Holiday Mondays. Last admission an hour before closing. ££.

Text and maps copyright © 2011 Earl Steinbicker.

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Mountains

Several of the postings on this blog are are about glorious mountains:

Appalachian Trail, Pennsylvania. A 1950 adventure with three friends from school, in which we covered some 50 miles of woodland across Pennsylvania in nearly a week.

Berchtesgaden, Germany. The castle, the salt mines, Germany's most beautiful lake, snow-capped Alps, and the famous Eagle's Nest — all together in one easy daytrip from either Munich or Salzburg.

Eisriesenwelt, Austria. The world's largest perpetually-frozen ice cave can be explored on this easy daytrip from Salzburg.

Fuji, Japan. Our overnight experiences in climbing Japan's Mount Fuji back in 1959.

Füssen and Neuschwanstein, Germany. THE dream castle to end all castles was built high in the Bavarian Alps by crazy King Ludwig II in the 19th century. A daytrip from Munich.

Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany. Explore an alpine village at the foot of Germany's highest mountain, and wander through a whitewater ravine in this daytrip from Munich.

Innsbruck - Ascent of the Hafelekar, Austria. An easy but exciting mountain adventure in the Alps. 

Innsbruck Mountain Walk, Austria. An east hike in the Austrian Alps, now included in Daytrips Austria.

Kitzbühel, Austria. One of the world's leading winter resorts is equally attractive in warmer seasons. An easy daytrip from Innsbruck.

Mittenwald, Germany. One of Bavaria's most enchanting towns is easily seen on a daytrip from either Munich or Innsbruck. FRom watching violins being made to ascending a spectacular mountain to wandering through a whitewater gorge, there's planty to see and do.

New York's Adirondacks. Camping at Mount Marcy, then in the Catskills.

Nikko, Japan. We climb to the sacred shrines and then take in the natural splendors of Lake Chuzenji.

Rocky Mountain High, Colorado. A 2007 journey through Colorado's Rocky Mountains.

Schneeberg, Austria. Ride up Vienna's "Snow Mountain" on an ancient steam train, then hike to the summit for a view.

Vaduz, Liechtenstein. This easy daytrip takes you from Zurich to an adventurous mountain hike above the capital of a tiny nation.

Var Valley, France. Ride a narrow-gauge train from Nice on the Riviera to the lower Alps, stopping at a mountain resort and a walled town with a castle.

Wendelstein, Germany. This roundtrip by rail or car from Munich includes an alpine village, a cable car up a mountain, a cave, some nice hikes, and a cog-wheel train down the mountain.

Zugspitze, Germany. One of the classic daytrips in Germany is an excursion to the top of Germany's highest peak.

 

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Railfan Adventures

 

A growing number of postings on this blog describe intriguing journeys by historic trains in both Europe and the U.S.A., along with visits to train museums and model exhibitions. Here they are, just click to open them:

 

Bluebell Railway, England: Europe's largest standard-gauge preserved all-steam railway offers a wide variety of experiences. A daytrip from London.

Ffestiniog Railway, Wales: A narrow-gauge steam ride through the mountains of North Wales, for visitors to that land or a very long daytrip from London.

Hoorn, Holland: Ride an ancient steam train across the North Holland landscape, then travel by boat on the IJsselmeer. A daytrip from Amsterdam.

I.O.W. Steam Railway, England. A small country line on the Isle of Wight, with equipment dating back as far as 1876.

Mariazell, Austria. Get there on a very old narrow-gauge mountain rail line, then visit the lake on the world's oldest remaining steam tram.

Miniatur-Wunderland, Germany. The world's greatest model train exhibition is in Hamburg, Germany.

My N-Gauge Railway Model: Re-creating the German Railways in miniature.

New York City's High Line: The trains no longer run, but the tracks are still there, right next to the new elevated hiking trail that cuts through Manhattan's Lower West Side.

Rocky Mountain Ski Train: Ride high through the Rockies from Denver to Winter Park.

Romney, Hythe & Dymchurch Railway, England: Ride a miniature steam train to a seaside nuclear station, a daytrip from London.

York, England: Home of the National Railway Museum, considered to be the best train museum anywhere. Get there from London by High Speed rail.

Schneeberg, Austria: Ride up Vienna's "Snow Mountain" on a narrow-gauge rack-rail steam train, then hike to the summit for a view.

Spa Valley Railway, England. Ride 3.5 or more miles through the Kentish countryside in ancient coaches hauled by primitive steam engines. Board at Royal Tunbridge Wells, a short ride from London.

Strasburg, Pennsylvania, U.S.A: Ride the Strasburg Rail Road behind steam, visit the state train museum, and have fun at the model train exhibition. A daytrip from Philadelphia.

Var Valley, France: Leave Nice on a narrow-gauge commuter train that takes you along a narrow valley into the lower Alps.

Lansdale, Pennsylvania, U.S.A. Memories of the former Liberty Bell Limited, an interurban trolley car that ran from Allentown to Philadelphia from 1900-1951.

More coming, stay tuned.

 

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