Life's Little Adventures

Netherlands Open-Air Museum

Heading for Amsterdam? Here's a Dutch Treat that's sure to please, taken from the pages of my guidebook Daytrips Holland, Belgium & Luxembourg, Fourth Edition.

Trip 21

A Daytrip from Amsterdam

Netherlands Open-Air Museum at Arnhem

Outdoor folk museums have become increasingly popular in Europe and throughout the world as more of the countryside succumbs to modern development and the traditional ways of life disappear. In many cases they are the only realistic way of saving a nation's domestic heritage from being paved over to make way for yet more shopping malls. Typically, threatened structures ranging from thatched farm cottages to early industrial buildings are moved into a protected park setting and reassembled in village groupings according to the region they represent. Trained personnel, often in folk costumes, carry on the old crafts and farm the fields in the traditional way, while reconstructed country inns continue to serve age-old recipes. A visit to one of the better open-air museums can be a lot of fun, and may be the only chance you'll ever get to experience some aspects of the Old World.

There are several open-air museums in Holland, notably at Zaanse Schans and Enkhuizen, but this one, at Arnhem, is by far the largest and most complete. Spread over an area of about 75 acres, it was begun in 1912 and now contains roughly 100 structures. All of these have been restored to their original appearance, and many are filled with period furnishings. Besides the farmhouses and barns, there are workshops, windmills, bridges, inns, a school, a church, and even some urban buildings.

The museum suggests several routes; the one described here is a modified version of them. In addition to walking, there are historic trams operating all over the park that you can ride. At the entrance pavilion is a special exhibition called the HollandRama, showing regional costumes and historical material. Food and drinks are offered at several places along the way, as are rest rooms.

By getting off to an early start, it is entirely possible to combine this trip in the same day with one to the Hoge Veluwe National Park with its famous Kröller-Müller Museum. This is described in the next chapter. To do this by public transportation, you must first return to the bus stop in front of the Arnhem train station. Those with cars can drive directly there.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains leave Amsterdam's Centraal Station frequently for the 68-minute ride to Arnhem. A few require a change at Utrecht. In addition to the regular IC expresses, there are slightly faster ICE trains that require a supplementary fare. Return service operates until late evening. Schedules at W: ns.nl.

By Car, head south from Amsterdam on the A-2 highway past Utrecht, then take the A-12 east to the Arnhem-Apeldoorn exit and follow local signs to the Openlucht Museum. The total distance is 99 km (62 miles).

PRACTICALITIES:

The museum is open daily from April through October, with a variable winter season. Good weather is essential for enjoyment of this trip. The Tourist Office in Arnhem (VVV), T: (0900) 1122344 (toll call) or W: vvvarnhem.nl, is at Stationsplein 13, by the station.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

There are several places to eat and drink at the outdoor museum as well as restaurants and cafés in Arnhem. Some choices are:

AT THE MUSEUM:

Café (at the entrance pavilion) Sandwiches and light refreshments. €

De Hanekamp (near the far end) Pancakes and snacks. €

Kasteeboerderij (by the lake) A self-service restaurant with full meals. € and €€

IN ARNHEM:

Hotel Haarhuis (1 Stationsplein, across from the station) Good-value meals in a small hotel.  (026) 442-7441. €€

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

The easiest way to get from the Arnhem Train Station to the open-air museum is to take bus number 3 in the direction of Alteveer. During the summer months there is also the direct bus number 13. Both depart fre-quently from the square in front of the station, and the ride takes 10 minutes. Otherwise, it's a 2½-mile taxi ride or walk.

*NETHERLANDS OPEN-AIR MUSEUM (Nederlands Openlucht Museum) (1–18),  Schelmseweg 89, Arnhem, T: (026) 357-6111 or W: openluchtmuseum.nl. Open April through October, daily 10-5, variable schedule in winter. Museum Card accepted. €€€, includes HollandRama. Historic trams provide transportation in the park. An illustrated guide booklet in English is sold at the gate.

At the entrance (1) is an exhibition pavilion called HollandRama, where you can see regional costumes, historic material, and special shows in a multimedia spectacular. Just beyond this turn left and stroll down to the Horse-Drawn Oil Mill (2) from the province of Gelderland. Converted from a farmhouse around 1830, it was used to extract lighting and cooking oils by crushing seeds such as rape or flax. Close to this is a small thatched-roof Veluwe Farmhouse (3) from around 1850, whose furnished interior may be visited.

The route now passes a small exhibition of beekeeping on the way to the Betuwe Farmhouse (4), a rather large structure originally built in 1646. Also from Gelderland Province, it has an attached barn and a nicely-furnished interior.

Return past the bees and turn left to the romantically sited Farmhouse from Giethoorn (5) (photo, top of page), which of course is partially surrounded by water. Built in 1832, much of it was used for the storage of hay, with attractive living quarters at one end. Down the road from it stands the large Staphorst Farmhouse (6), a type still found in that conservative part of Holland. Most of this is devoted to the storage of hay, but the small living quarters are beautifully decorated with tiles and painted furniture. Behind it is the Farmhouse with a Pyramid Roof, erected in 1745 in North Holland province, and associated with the making of Edam cheeses.

The route now enters a small village over a typical wooden drawbridge (photo, above) from around 1800. The Merchant's House (7) from Koog on the Zaan (near Zaanse Schans) partially dates from 1686 and has the sort of com-fortable interior favored by the 19th-century bourgeoisie. Adjacent to this is a tradesman's house from the same area, which now serves as a souvenir shop.

Turn left and stroll through the village to the Fisherman's Cottage from Marken (8), which is similar to the ones you find today on the island in the IJsselmeer just north of Amsterdam. Its tiny interior has excellent exam-ples of the traditional cupboard beds then popular in the north.

Continue on past an early-!9th-century Laundry (9) that was brought here from an area near Haarlem. Close to it is a refreshment stand, where you can take a break before admiring the unusual Post Windmill (10). This was once used to grind grain in North Holland, and parts of it are over 300 years old.

The Paper Mill from the Veluwe (11) (photo, above) is in a beautifully wooded location between two ponds. Powered by an overshot waterwheel, its mechanisms still work and are used to give demonstrations of hand paper-making.

Although it is a re-creation and not an original, the Parlor from Hindeloopen (12) is quite interesting for the stylized painted furniture that has come to be associated with that former Zuider Zee town.

Now follow the map past the lovely Herb Garden to the Frisian Farmstead (13), whose rather elegant living quarters reflect the prosperity of that dairy region. Near this is the Farmhouse from Beerta (14), an area in Groningen province. Its living section has been restored to the state it was in around 1935, after electrification provided such luxuries as lighting, kitchen appliances, and a radio. In contrast, the Drenthe Farmhouse (15) is a large but rather primitive affair dating from around 1700.

Continue on to the De Hanekamp Inn (16), an 18th-century country inn from Zwolle. It now functions as a delightful café for museum visitors, with both indoor and outdoor tables.

Limburg province, in the south and much hillier than the rest of Holland, is represented by the Krawinkel Farmstead (17) and other nearby structures. From here the route passes a grouping of various Windmills (18) (photo, left) on the way back to the entrance.

Text, map, and drawbridge photo copyright © 2006 by Earl Steinbicker, updated to 2009.

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Chantilly, France

Visitors to Paris should not miss this really simple one-day outing, taken directly from the pages of my guidebook, Daytrips France, 6th Edition.

Trip 11

A Daytrip from Paris

Chantilly

The Île-de-France region is justly renowned for its many splendid châteaux. Some of these, especially Versailles, are monumental in scope while others, such as Fontainebleau, leave the visitor endowed with an immensely satisfying sense of history. For sheer beauty, however, the dream-like Château of Chantilly is by far the most outstanding. Many even consider it to be the loveliest in all France. This is surely reason enough to make the easy daytrip, but Chantilly gilds the lily with yet more sumptuous attractions. There are enchanted gardens, a magnificent forest, one of the nation's best art museums, stables that resemble a palace, a world-famous racetrack, a great horse training center and — of course — the delicious whipped cream and black lace for which the town is noted.

Chantilly has an illustrious history going back to a Roman named Cantilius. The present château — actually two separate châteaux joined by a common entrance — is the fifth on the same site. Its larger part, the impossibly romantic Grand Château, is a late-19th-century pastiche while the older Petit Château dates from the 16th century. It was here that a well-known event (or story!) occurred in 1671, when Louis XIV came calling for a three-day visit — along with five thousand of his retainers. The greatest chef in France at the time, François Vatel, was employed at the château and had to feed all those hungry mouths on virtually no notice. Things went wrong and finally, when the promised fish failed to arrive in time, the overwrought Vatel ended it all with a sword thrust through his body.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains leave Nord Station in Paris almost hourly for the 30-minute ride to Chantilly-Gouvieux. Return service operates until early evening. There are also slightly slower trains on the RER commuter service.

By Car, leave Paris on the A-1 Autoroute, switching to the N-l near St.-Denis and then to the N-16. Chantilly is about 40 km (25 miles) north of Paris.

PRACTICALITIES:

Good weather is essential for a visit to Chantilly. Avoid coming on a Tuesday, when nearly everything is closed. The local tourist information office, T: 03-4467-3737, W: chantilly-tourisme.com, is at 60 Avenue du Maréchal-Joffre, between the train station and the town. Bicycles may be rented nearby. Chantilly has a population of about 11,000.

FOOD AND DRINK:

There are several good restaurants and cafés between the train station and the château. At the attractions themselves, some choices are:

Les Goûtes Champêtres (at Le Hameau, in the park of the château) Lunch in the gardens, or just a dessert with real Chantilly cream. X: mid-Nov. to mid-March. €€ and €€€

Carrousel Restaurant (at the Grandes Écuries) Lunches in the elegant courtyard of the Horse Museum. T: 03-4457-1977. X: Tues., weekdays in winter. €€

La Capitainerie (in the château) A self-service cafeteria for light lunches. T: 03-4457-1589. X: Tues. €

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leave the Chantilly-Gouvieux train station (1) and follow the map to the Hippodrome (racetrack) (2), where the prestigious Prix de Diane and Prix du Jockey Club races are run on the first and second Sundays of June. This beautifully situated course has been attracting Paris society since 1836. Continue on to the:

*CHÂTEAU DE CHANTILLY (3), T: 03-4462-6262, W: chateaudechantilly.com. Open March–Oct., Wed.–Mon., 10–6; shorter hours Nov.–March. Closed Tues. Last entry 45 minutes before closing. Park open every day. Château and park: €€, park only: €.

Chantilly’s magnificent château rises from the middle of a tiny lake like a fantastic scene from a fairy tale. As a special treat and for a small extra charge, you can ride on the Hydrophile, an electric boat on the Grand Canal that operates from April through October. 

Cross the bridge and enter the Musée Condé, a museum that occupies the entire château. The sumptuous collection of art, along with the estate, was bequeathed to the Institut de France in 1897 by its last owner, the Duke of Aumale, fifth son of Louis-Philippe, the last king of France. A guide booklet in English is available at the entrance.

The rooms to your right, in the Grand Château, contain the picture galleries and may be seen at your own leisure. Laid out in a charming 19th-century style, the walls are covered from top to bottom with an amazingly good collection of canvases. To see the rest of the château you will have to take a guided tour, included in the admission price. Don't miss the private apartments in the Petit Château, especially the Chapel and the Library, whose greatest treasure is the *Trés Riches Heures du Duc de Berry, one of the greatest masterpieces of the Middle Ages. Because of its fragile condition, this is rarely exhibited, but copies are on display.

Leave the château and walk straight ahead into the park. Once in the woods, turn right and follow the map past the tiny Chapel of St. Paul to the Maison de Sylvie (4), a house with a long history of romantic affairs. The paths now lead through an enchanted forest, complete with statuary in little clearing, to Le Hameau (5), a rustic hamlet where the nobility played at being peasants. This was the prototype for Marie-Antoinette's famous hameau at Versailles. Continue around to the formal gardens and waterways (6) designed by that great landscape artist, André Le Nôtre, who was also largely responsible for the gardens at Versailles.

The picturesque Jardin Anglais (English Gardens) (7) come as a great contrast. Stroll through them to the Ile d'Amour (8), an idyllic little island, then continue on to the Jeu de Paume (9), which is sometimes open.

One last sight remains at Chantilly, just outside the palace precincts. This is the Grandes Écuries (10), a stable built like a fabulous palace. The story is told about the Duke of Bourbon, owner of the château during the early 18th century, having this luxurious barn erected because he expected to be reincarnated as a horse and wanted to assure his future comfort. Whether this event actually occurred is not known, but the posh interiors are open to visitors as the Musée Vivant du Cheval (Living Museum of the Horse). Demonstrations of dressage, a great treat, are given several times daily. T: 03-4457-4040, W: musee-vivant-du-cheval.fr. Open April–Oct., Wed.–Fri. 10:30–5:30, Sat.–Sun. & holidays 10:30–6; Nov.–March, Wed.–Fri. 2–5, Sat.–Sun. & holidays 10:30–5:30. €€.

Text, maps and B&W photos copyright © 2005 by Earl Steinbicker. Top color photo by Tango7174, used under GNU Free Documentation License.

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A Fond Farewell To Kodachrome

After a 74-year run, Kodak's classic color film is being retired. For good. And with honors. I will miss it.

This, even though I haven't used any in nearly three decades. 

Kodachrome images of my childhood from the late 1930s still survive with all their bright, saturated colors intact. I grew up with this stuff in the 1940s and 50s, and used vast quantities of it during my previous career as a professional photographer. Photos I took of Japan during my stint in the U.S. Army from 1957 through 59 are as good today as the day they were taken, long after slides on other color films have faded.

To fully appreciate Kodachrome's incredible quality and its impact on the world of images you must dig a little into the history of color photography. Although experiments in adding hues to photos began in the 1840s, the first commercially viable process was Autochrome, invented by the Lumìere brothers of France in 1903. This was soon followed by another French system, Dufaycolor, in 1908. Both were "additive" processes made up of microscopic bits of solid colors deposited on a glass plate. By 1932 these emulsions became available on a flexible film base, suitable for use in movies and regular amateur cameras. While the resultant photos could be quite lovely, they fell apart when substantially enlarged as the individual color dots became apparent. The glass plates also required a great deal of exposure and were difficult to view. 

In the mid-1920s two professional musicians who were long fascinated by the idea of color photography, violinist Leopold Godowsky Jr. and pianist Leopold Mannes, met an important scientist employed by Kodak. He arranged for them to be financed in their experiments, which by 1930 had led to a viable two-color movie film. They then became employees of Kodak and by 1935 had perfected Kodachrome, a three-color "subtractive" process that consisted of three Black & White emulsion layers, each representing a primary color. These were then dyed during development. This singular fact is what has for 74 years given Kodachrome such pure colors and such longevity. It also made Kodachrome incredibly complex to process, a service that for years could only be done by Kodak itself, and later by only a few laboratories.

The new Kodachrome was first marketed in 1935 in the 16mm home movie format, and in 1936 in 8mm as well as in 35mm and 828 roll-film sizes for amateur still photography (photo, left). Later it also became available as 120 roll film and 4x5 sheet film for professional use. Initially it had a "speed" equivalent of ISO 8 in today's terms, but later versions had "speeds" of 25, 40, 64, and 200.

One frame of 35mm Kodachrome, when digitally scanned, contains the equivalent of 20 megapixels of data, resulting in an exceptionally high-definition image suitable for considerable enlargement. This, and the purity of its colors, is why it became a favorite among professional photographers.

Over the years, however, other color films by Kodak, Agfa, Fuji and others had improved to the point of being almost (but not quite!) as good. These could be easily processed by the user or by small local labs. Consequently, Kodachrome sales declined — and then came the digital revolution. Yesterday, on June 22 2009, Kodak announced that no more will be made and that current stocks should last until about Fall of this year. Processing will be available until the end of 2010.

So, thank you, Kodachrome, for all the wonderful color you brought into our lives.

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Canterbury, England

This sample chapter is taken from the current edition of Daytrips London and has been updated for inclusion in the next edition due in 2010. It has a new map and a slightly revised walking tour.

Trip 13

A Daytrip from London

*Canterbury

Over two thousand years of history made their mark on Canterbury, a magnet for countless pilgrimages since the 12th century. St. Augustine established the Christian Church in England here as far back as AD 597, and in 1170 the martyr Thomas à Becket was murdered in its cathedral. As a convenient place to ford the River Stour, Canterbury was a strategic settlement ever since the Iron Age. The Romans, calling the place Durovernum, made it an important center of trade in the 1st century AD. During Anglo-Saxon times its status increased as the name changed to Cantwarabyrig, and it became the capital of the Kingdom of Kent. Much of Canterbury's colorful past remains intact today, despite the ravages of Cromwell's troops and the bombs of World War II.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains to Canterbury East Station, operated by Southeastern, depart from Victoria Station in London at least hourly, the run taking about 90 minutes. Be sure to get on the right car, as some trains split en route. Return service operates until late evening. Southeastern also operates similar service from London’s Charing Cross and Waterloo stations, going to Canterbury West Station, near the West Gate, and also to Canterbury East Station. These are slightly slower. Schedules at W: railtrack.co.uk.

By Car, Canterbury is 58 miles southeast of London via the A2 and M2 highways.

PRACTICALITIES:

Any day is a good day to visit Canterbury, bearing in mind that some minor sights are closed on Sundays. The Canterbury Information Centre, T: (01227) 378-100, W: canterbury.co.uk, is at 12/13 Sun Street, The Butter Market, opposite the cathedral’s main entrance. You might ask there about renting a bicycle in town as this is good cycling country. Canterbury is in the county of Kent, and has a population of about 38,670.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

Having attracted pilgrims and their modern counterparts since the Middle Ages, Canterbury has no shortage of restaurants and pubs in all price ranges. Some good choices for lunch are:

[this list is currently being revised for the new edition]

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leaving Canterbury East Station (1), cross the footbridge over the A-2 highway and turn right on the ancient city walls. Those arriving at Canterbury West Station br should adjust their route accordingly. Dating from the 13th and 14th centuries, these bastions were built atop Roman foundations. To your left is Dane John Gardens (2), a pleasant 18th-century park with a strange mound of unexplained but probably prehistoric origin. There's a view if you climb to the top. Continue along the walls and turn left by the bus station onto St. George's Street. The tower on the right is all that remains of St. George's Church, where Christopher Marlowe was baptized in 1564.

St. George's Street soon becomes High Street. Stroll down this and make a left onto St. Margaret's Street. Before exploring the town, why not brush up on your Chaucer (and have some fun!) at the:

*CANTERBURY TALES (3), T: (01227) 479-227, W: canterburytales.org.uk. Open daily except Christmas, Dec. 26, New Year's Day, 10-5 (4:30 in winter). £££.

This popular attraction is a marvelous walk-through re-creation of the famous medieval pilgrimage. Here animated figures, light, sound, and even smells bring to life the Knight's Tale, the bawdy Miller's Tale, the fanciful Wife of Bath's Tale, and all those other stories you remember so well from schooldays. A great introduction to the town, and now for the real thing:

Retrace your steps and head up narrow Mercery Lane, the traditional pilgrim's approach to the cathedral. During medieval days this was lined with stalls selling healing water from Becket's Well, medallions of St. Thomas, and other mementoes of the pilgrimage. At its far end is the Butter Market, an ancient center of trade. The magnificent Christchurch Gate (4), opposite, dates from the early 16th century and is the main entrance to the cathedral precinct.

 Pass through the gate and enter the grounds of:

*CANTERBURY CATHEDRAL (5), T: (01227) 762-862, W: canterbury-cathedral.org. Open Mon.Sat. 9-5:30, closing at 5 in winter; Sun. 12:30-2 and 4:30-5:30. Closed Good Friday, Dec. 24, 25. Guided tours available. ₤₤.

Canterbury Cathedral is the mother church of the Anglican faith throughout the world. For centuries it has been a center of pilgrimage and in a sense still is, although today's visitors are more likely to be tourists. Neither the largest, the tallest, nor the most beautiful of English cathedrals, it nevertheless has an attraction that is second to none.

A cathedral was built on this site by St. Augustine, the first Archbishop of Canterbury, in 602. This lasted until 1067, when it burned down. The present structure was begun in 1070 and completed in 1503, although little of the earlier work remains.

Enter the cathedral by way of the southwest porch. The lofty nave was built in the Perpendicular style during the 14th century, replacing an inadequate Norman original. Above the crossing you can see up the entire height of the magnificent Bell Harry Tower, whose bell is rung every evening and tolled on the death of a sovereign or an archbishop. A flight of steps to the right of the screen leads to the elevated Choir, one of the longest in England.

Behind the High Altar is the Trinity Chapel, which held Becket's tomb until Henry VIII had it demolished and the bones scattered in 1538. The tomb of the only king to be buried at Canterbury, Henry IV, and that of Edward, the Black Prince, are also in this chapel. At the extreme east end is a circular chapel known as the Corona, or Becket's Crown. The marble chair in its center is used for the enthronement of every archbishop.

The north aisle leads past the choir to the northwest transept, the scene of the martyrdom. It was here that Archbishop Thomas à Becket was murdered on December 29, 1170 (image, right). The four knights who committed the deed thought they were carrying out the desire of their king, Henry II, although his part in it is disputed by historians. Henry certainly had reason to get rid of “this turbulent priest,” his former friend and ally who had challenged the power of the State. Whatever the rationale behind the killing, it led to the canonization of Becket, the chastisement of Henry II, the role of Canterbury as a place of pilgrimage, and helped further the cause of individual freedom.

The spacious Crypt is the oldest part of the cathedral, dating from Norman times. Along its south aisle there is a Huguenot chapel where services in French are still held. Becket was first buried at the east end, which was also the scene of Henry II's penance.

Stroll into the early-15th-century Cloisters by way of the northwest transept. Adjoining it is the Chapter House and Library. Follow the passageway and turn left into the grounds of the King's School (6). Although it was refounded by Henry VIII, the school claims an ancestry going back to the time of St. Augustine, which would make it the oldest in England. The 12th-century Norman staircase near the northwest corner of the Green Court is superb, as are the views of the cathedral from this point.

Returning, bear left and walk around the rear of the cathedral to the Kent War Memorial Gardens. Go through the gate in the far corner and follow the map to the ruins of St. Augustine's Abbey (7). Originally founded in 598 and rebuilt several times since, it was destroyed by Henry VIII following the Reformation. Excavations revealed the layout of several buildings including the church, monk's dormitory, kitchen, refectory, and cloisters. A new museum of artifacts found during excavations has recently been added, and the admission price includes an interactive audio tour of the ruins. T: (01227) 767-345, W: english-heritage.org.uk. Open April-Sept. daily 10–6; Oct. daily 10-5; Nov.-March daily 10-4. Closed Dec. 25, Jan. 1, Mon. in off-season. ₤₤.

From here you might want to make an interesting little side trip. Walk back around St. Augustine's and turn left on Monastery Street, then left again on Longport. Just past the jail make another left to St. Martin's Church (8), said to be the oldest church in England to remain in use. Parts of it date from before the time of St. Augustine and were used by Queen Bertha, Christian wife of pagan King Ethelbert. Explore the interior, noting in particular the Saxon font, then stroll through the tranquil graveyard. T: (01227) 453-469, W: martinpaul.org. Open Tues., Thurs., Sat. 11-4, closing at 3 in winter. Donation welcome. 

Returning to town via Longport and Church Street, walk down Burgate and turn left into Butchery Lane. The Canterbury Roman Museum (9) lies buried beneath a modern shopping centre, at the actual level of the Roman town. Incorporating remains of an excavated Roman villa from around AD 100, it uses modern techniques to re-create life here some 1,500 years ago. T: (01227) 785-575, W: canterbury-museums.co.uk. Open Mon.-Sat. 10-4, and on Sun. in June-Sept., 1:30-4. Closed Good Friday and Christmas week. ₤₤. 

Continuing along High Street, you will pass Queen Elizabeth's Guest Chamber, a Tudor house on the left in which the queen entertained her French suitor, the Duke of Alençon. It is now a café. Farther along on the right is the Canterbury Royal Museum and Art Gallery (10), otherwise known as the Beaney Institute. It has a fine collection of Roman and other antiquities as well as local art and regimental history.  Closed for restoration until about 2011. 

Amble down St. Peter's Street to the Westgate (11). Built in the late 14th century, this imposing fortification once guarded the western approach to Canterbury. Its upper floor served as the city jail until 1829, and now houses a museum of arms and torture instruments. There is a superb view from the top. T: (01227) 452-747, W: canterbury-museums.co.uk. Open Sat. only, 11-12:30 and 1:30-3:30. ₤.

A stroll through Westgate Gardens is very inviting. Return along St. Peter's Street to the Eastbridge Hospital (12), a well-preserved 12th-century hostel for poor pilgrims. Its crypt, chapel, and hall may be visited. T: (01227) 471-688, W: eastbridgehospital.org.uk. Open Mon.-Sat. 10-5. Closed Sun., Good Friday, Christmas week. £.

Turn right on Stour Street and then right again into a tiny lane marked “to Greyfriars.” Follow the path onto a small island. The extremely picturesque 13th-century Greyfriars (13) (photo, left) is all that remains of the first Franciscan friary in England. From inside you can get a feeling of what monastic life in medieval Canterbury was like. T: (01227) 462-395. Open Easter through late Sept., Mon.-Sat. 2-4. Free.

Just beyond this, also on Stour Street, is the Poor Priests' Hospital (14). This 14th-century hostel now houses the Museum of Canterbury, where the latest techniques are used to re-create the city's past, from Roman times to the near-present. T: (01227) 452-747, W: canterbury-museums.co.uk. Open Mon.-Sat. 11-4, and on Sun. from June through Sept., 1:30-4. £₤.

Follow the map back to the station via Castle Street. At its end, opposite the city wall, are the ruins of an 11th-century Norman Castle (15). Never very effective as a defensive bastion, it was later used as a jail, a coal dump, and a water tank.

Cross Castle Street and turn left at the city walls, taking the overpass to the station.

Text and map copyright © 2003 by Earl Steinbicker, updated to 2009.

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The Avedon Years, Part XLIV

Think Pink — The

Making of Funny Face

Some movies were never destined for greatness, yet remain highly enjoyable and can be watched over and over again, only getting better with age. Such is the case with Funny Face, a 1957 flick inspired by Richard Avedon’s photographic career. Although only 32 at the time, Dick was already famous as the star photographer for Harper’s Bazaar magazine. So it was only natural that Hollywood director Stanley Donen based his fashion-fantasy musical on Avedon, even though the resemblance was more in spirit than in fact.

Avedon was hired by Paramount as a consultant on the film, and also had quite a bit to say about which stars would appear in it. He once commented on Fred Astaire playing the role of fashion photographer “Dick Avery” by saying “It’s all very strange. I’d learned how to be me by pretending to be him and then I had to teach him to pretend to be me.” Astaire was Avedon’s childhood idol, so it was no surprise that the dancer was chosen for the part despite being some thirty years older than his co-star Audrey Hepburn in the romantic comedy.

Funny Face began in 1927 as a Broadway Musical starring Fred and Adele Astaire, with music by George and Ira Gershwin. Although the 1957 movie had a completely different story line, both the spirit, the title, and four of the songs are taken directly from the Broadway show.

CLICK on photos to see them supersized

In a previous entry I described our 1955 trip to San Francisco to do a cosmetic ad for Helena Rubinstein featuring supermodel Susy Parker with the Dave Brubeck Quartet. A second, and more important, part of that trip was a meeting between Avedon and movie director Stanley Donen (born 1924) about a proposed romantic musical comedy inspired by the former’s life in fashion photography. As a result of this meeting I drove Dick and his wife Evie along with Donen and his wife, actress Marion Marshall, to the Hearst Castle at San Simeon for further discussions. 

Since Dick was associated with the Hearst Corporation as a result of his work for Harper’s Bazaar, he had wangled an invitation to use the castle for the meeting. William Randolph Hearst was already dead and the family seldom used the place, which they later gave to the State of California as a tourist attraction. The photo above was taken by Stanley Donen in the castle, showing Avedon (standing), me (seated, puffing on pipe), and Mrs. Donen. During the first hours there, Dick shot some historic pictures of the estate to present to the Hearst family. 

As an accomplished film director, Stanley Donen was most intrigued by this estate being the “real” home of Citizen Kane, a classic 1941 movie by Orson Welles that had been removed from circulation years earlier for legal and financial reasons, as it was thought to portray Hearst in a scandalous light. None of us had ever seen it, and Donen — especially — thought that, perversely, a print just might be hidden away in the estate’s theater. We searched the projection room, but no such luck.

After discussions had reached an agreement, I drove our whole gang south to Los Angeles, dropping them off in Bel Air. From there I drove to Beverly Hills, where I stayed for two days before flying back to New York with the precious film from the San Francisco sitting.

Despite the disparity in ages, Avedon insisted on having his idol Fred Astaire play opposite his muse, Audrey Hepburn. This actually worked out very well and he fit the part better than any other male dancer including the obvious first choice, Gene Kelly. The screenplay was written by Avedon’s friend, playwright Leonard Gershe (1922-2002).  

The story, such as it is, opens with a scene in the New York offices of "Quality," a ficticious slick fashion magazine obviously based on Harper's Bazaar. The head fashion editor, "Maggie Prescott" (photo, left), played wonderfully by Kay Thompson, is a dead ringer for Bazaar's very own Diana Vreeland. After dictating that all the world's women wear pink, she confides that she herself "wouldn't be caught dead in it." Her next inspiration was to depict intellectual women wearing smart designs by leading designers. 

For this the whole gang, "Maggie," her fawning assistants, photographer "Dick Avery," and the model "Marion," played by real model Dovima, race down to Greenwich Village and invade a dusty bookstore specializing in odd works by obscure philosophers. The store clerk, "Jo Stockton," played by Audrey Hepburn, appears in the corner of one of the pictures. Back at the office, "Avery" suggests that "Jo" has real charm and would make a great model, despite her "funny face." Later, "Avery" does a song-and-dance in the darkroom with her (photo, left), convincing her that she should go to Paris with them.

So it's off to Paris with "Jo," whose real motivation in going is to meet with her idol, "Professor Emile Flostre" and discuss his theories of "Empathicalism." Arriving at Orly Airport (photo, right), they each take off on their own to see the town before settling down to modeling and photography. This results in wonderful scenes, great music, and some stunning split-screen cinematography. 

Then it's down to work photographing the creations of couturier "Paul Duval," a character based on real-life Hubert de Givency — who actually designed all of Audrey Hepburn's Paris costumes (photo, left). But "Jo" was more interested in meeting "Professor Flostre," leading her to overlook some of her responsibilities, such as being there when needed. This leads "Dick" and "Maggie" to pose as beatniks and tear around the Latin Quarter in a strange little car (photo, right) in search of "Flostre" and "Jo." Turns out that "Flostre" is interested in more than philosophy, and "Jo" realizes what a mess she's gotten herself into. After a song-and-dance routine (photo, below), "Maggie" and "Dick" rescue her, "Dick" and "Jo" fall in love, and everything heads to a romantic, happy ending.

Of course, all of this is silly fluff — but that's exactly what makes it so much fun!   

Being a major production from Paramount, Funny Face was shot entirely in their proprietary VistaVision process. This high-resolution widescreen system used conventional 35mm motion picture film stock, running horizontally rather than vertically, with an 8-sprocket image measuring a wide 18.3mm x 36mm. It was developed by Paramount in 1954 to compete with  CinemaScope, which used an anamorphic lens to compress widescreen images onto a conventional 4-sprocket 35mm frame running vertically, with an image size of 18.6mm x 21.95mm. VistaVision was quite superior in picture quality but expensive to produce as it used twice as much film stock. It also required a lot of light to maintain depth-of-field, as the larger image size needed longer focal-length lenses and consequently smaller f/stops to keep both foreground and background in common focus. Another drawback was the reluctance on the part of theater owners to purchase the special projectors needed. Paramount overcame this by making compressed release prints that ran on conventional projectors equipped with anamorphic lenses. 

Doing this resulted in loss of image quality, but it was still a bit better than rival systems. The last motion picture shot entirely in VistaVision was in 1961, after which Paramount switched to the anamorphic Panavision. VistaVision was still used for some special effects scenes until being replaced by digital imagery in the early 21st century. 

Strangely, Funny Face was really an MGM movie produced and distributed by rival Paramount. MGM owned the rights to the story, and nearly all of the major creative staff including director Stanley Donen were under contract to them. Fred Astaire was freelancing at the time and owed Paramount a film. Hepburn was Paramount's most valuable star, so in no way would they release her to MGM. Consequently the whole project had to move over to Paramount, as Avedon was insistent on having both Astaire and Hepburn in "his" film.

Filming began in April 1956 and concluded that July.  Prior to that time Dick made a trip to Hollywood in his role as consultant, and again when filming began. He also traveled to Paris in late April to oversee the location shooting there. The photo on the right shows him with Fred Astaire in the Tuileries with a strange French view camera, not the Deardorff he always used at the time. The TLR camera dangling from Astaire's neck isn't a Rolleiflex, either. Sadly, I was not present on any of these shooting days or on the later ones during June and July in Hollywood. The editing was done that Fall, with Avedon present in Los Angeles on October 19-20, November 10-11, and November 14-17; but by that time I had already been drafted into the U.S. Army. Dick wrote to me during basic training offering to arrange a private showing in New York before the premiere if I could get off, although I had to decline rather than go AWOL.

Funny Face was released on VHS Video tape in 1995, and again in 2001. That same year it was also released on DVD, and an improved 50th Anniversary DVD in 2007. In 2009 a 2-disc DVD set including many extras was released as part of the Paramount Centennial Collection. 

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Lake Starnberg, Germany

This sample chapter appears in two of my recent guidebooks: the compact Daytrips Bavaria and the more complete Daytrips Germany, 7th Edition. This is an especially easy outing for visitors to Munich, and a most enjoyable one in good weather.

Trip 3

A Daytrip From Munich

Lake Starnberg

Long a popular playground for the people of Munich, Lake Starnberg is a delightful daytrip destination within sight of the Alps. Its particular attraction, beyond natural beauty, lies in the fact that it is so easy to reach. Only a half-hour ride from the city by commuter train or car, the lake has a good boat service that carries visitors onwards to lovely, secluded villages.

Royalty has been drawn to these shores for centuries. The castle at Berg, still a residence of the Wittelsbachs, was always a favorite of King Ludwig II. It was here, too, that his bizarre life ended in tragedy. The artistic collaboration between Ludwig and the composer Richard Wagner was first realized at Starnberg, with many later scenes in their strange relationship taking place nearby.

For travelers, the Lake Starnberg region offers a wonderful alternative to staying in Munich. A wide choice of accommodations, at prices often well below those in the city, is available through the local tourist office in Starnberg.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains to Starnberg leave frequently from the lower level of Munich's main station. They may also be boarded at other S-Bahn stations, including those under Marienplatz or Karlsplatz. Take route S-6 in the direction of Tutzing for the half-hour ride to Starnberg. Those without railpasses should follow the ticketing instructions on page 00.

By Car, Starnberg is some 26 km (16 miles) southwest of Munich on the A-95 Autobahn.

PRACTICALITIES:

This trip is most pleasant on a fine, warm day in summer; and is well suited for weekend travel. The local Tourist Information Office (Verkehrsamt) in Starnberg is at Wittelsbacherstrasse 2c, T: (08151) 90-60-0, W: sta5.de. The town of Starnberg has a population of about 22,500.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

IN STARNBERG:

Seerestaurant Undosa (Seepromenade 1, on the lake) A big, lively restaurant, indoors and outdoors. T: (08151) 998-930, W: undosa.de. €€

Ristorante Al Gallo Nero (in Seehof Hotel, Bahnhofsplatz 4, by the station) Italian cuisine, with an outdoor café. T: (08151) 22-21. €€

Kðnigswasser (Maximilianstr, 2B, near the station) Light meals and snacks. T: (08151) 444-088. €

AROUND THE LAKE:

Strandhotel Schloss Berg (Seestr. 17, by the dock in Berg) A lovely, quiet hotel at the edge of the lake, with indoor and outdoor dining. T: (08151) 96-30. €€

Seehotel Leoni (Assenbucherstr. 44, by the dock at Leoni) A modern lakeside hotel with a restaurant and outdoor dining. Continental cuisine. T: (08151) 50-60, W: seehotel-leoni.com. €€ and €€€

Tutzinger Biergarten (Midgardstr. 3-5, Tutzing) A charming lakeside beer garden with light meals. T: (08158) 1216. €

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leave the Starnberg train station (1) and stroll over to the pier, just a few yards away. Study the posted boat schedule and decide whether to take a ride to Berg now, or see the town of Starnberg first. If you choose the latter, continue up Wittelsbacher Strasse past the tourist office to Kirchplatz, where the parish church is located. Boat schedules at W: seenschifffahrt.de.

Cross Hauptstrasse and follow the map past the town hall, climbing uphill to the 16th-century Castle (2) around which the town developed. This is now occupied by government offices, but you can poke your head in for a look. Just beyond the Schloss there is a beautiful garden with fine views of the lake and the distant Alps.

Schlossbergstrasse leads over a boldly designed arch to the St.-Josef-Kirche, an enchanting 18th-century rococo church typical of Bavarian villages. Its interior is well worth a visit, especially for the high altar. 

Return to lakeside via the Günther Steig, Achheimstrasse, and Bahnhofstrasse. Turn right just before the railway to the Museum Starnberger See (3). Originally located in a charming early-16th-century log-built house, one of the oldest structures of its kind in Germany, it has recently overflowed into an adjuacent modern structure. On display here are exhibits on anything having to do with the lake district, from history to culture to nature. T: (08151) 4477-570, W: museum-starnberger-see.de. Open Tues.-Sun. 10-5. €.

From here you can take a lovely stroll along the lakeside promenade (4). There are several outdoor cafés and restaurants along the way, as well as places where you can rent electric boats quite reasonably. This may be a more intriguing idea than the boat ride.

Walk back to the pier (1) and board the boat. The short round-trip cruise (Nördliche-Rundfahrt) goes to Berg and Leoni before returning to Starnberg and takes about an hour, not including stopovers. The *longer round-trip (Grosse-Rundfahrt) covers the entire 12-mile length of the lake, stopping at Berg, Leoni, Possenhofen, Tutzing, Ammerland, Bernried, Ambach, and Seeshaupt; and then makes the same halts on the way back. This takes a total of about three hours, again not counting any stopovers. T: (08151) 8061, W: seenschifffahrt.de. Boats operate from May through mid-Oct. €€ and €€€.

A highly recommended trip is to take the boat to Berg, walk a bit over a mile to Leoni, then either return to Starnberg or continue on the long cruise. If you do the latter you can get off at Possenhofen or Tutzing and catch an S-Bahn train back to Munich rather than return to Starnberg.

Disembarking at Berg (5), walk up Wittelsbacher Strasse past Berg Castle, a favorite residence of King Ludwig II. This is where he spent his last captive hours after being deposed in 1886. It is still occupied by the family and cannot be visited. From here a path, Am Hofgarten, leads through the woods to the Votive Chapel erected in his honor. At the water's edge a cross marks the spot where the young monarch's body was found along with that of his doctor. Both drowned under highly mysterious circumstances, possibly murder but more likely a struggle to escape followed by suicide. Completely out of touch with reality, Ludwig's dream world was shattered and he had nothing more to live for.

Following the path to Leoni (6), you can either take a boat back to Starnberg or continue on the long cruise. Suggestions for a stop along the way include Possenhofen (7), where Ludwig's distant cousin, the empress Elisabeth of Austria, spent much of her time. At one point he was engaged to her younger sister Sophie, but this was hastily terminated by the king as the actual date drew near.

From here the boat passes the Roseninsel, a tiny island where Ludwig had yet another castle, and where some of his affairs took place. Tutzing (8), a quiet resort, is the last stop on the lake to be served by S-Bahn commuter trains. Those venturing beyond will have to return by boat. Three other interesting halts are at Ammerland (9), an ancient fishing village with a castle; and Bernried, with its stunning new:

*BUCHHEIM MUSEUM (10), Am Hirschgarten 1, Bernried, T: (08158) 997-060, W: buchheimmuseum.de. Open Tues.-Sun. 10-6, closing at 5 Nov.-March. Restaurant. Café. €€. There is a direct “Phantasie” boat from Starnberg May-Oct., Tues.-Sun., departing Starnberg at 12:30, 2:45, and 5. Combination boat fare and entrance €€€.

Calling itself a Museum of the Imagination, the Buchheim displays a fantastic collection of German Expressionist art, especially that of the Brücke movement. Some of the artists represented include Dix, Beckmann, and Schmitt-Rotluff.

 

The last stop is at Seeshaupt, the southern end of the lake, practically next door to the Alps.

Text and map copyright © 2007, 2009 by Earl Steinbicker. Top photo by Alexander Z., used under GNU Free Documentation License. Bottom photo courtesy of Touismusverband Starnberger Fünf-Seen-Land.

Other entries on this blog about King Ludwig II are: Bayreuth, Neuschwanstein, and Nymphenburg.

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Norwich, England

Here's another complete chapter from my guidebook Daytrips London, 7th Edition, updated to 2009 for inclusion in an 8th Edition due in 2010.

Trip 55

*Norwich

A Daytrip from London

Norwich lives in a curious time warp where the past keeps bumping into the present. Essentially a medieval city of great distinction, its twisting, cobbled lanes are charged with the vitality of modern living. It has all the expected features of an English country town; a massive castle, a splendid cathedral, and more ancient churches than anyone would care to count. Its narrow streets run every which way and make about as much sense as the meanderings of a drunken cow. Yet somehow it all seems to work, for Norwich is truly alive and ready to step into the future.

Located in a loop of the River Wensum some 20 miles from the sea, Norwich began as an Anglo-Saxon settlement that by the 9th century was already trading with the Continent. Destroyed by the Danes in 1004, it was soon rebuilt by the Normans and has prospered ever since. When its wool industry declined it took to other pursuits such as brewing, metalworking, food processing, shoemaking, and insurance. Norwich has always adapted to changing times, and in the process has never lost sight of its heritage.

The city’s name, incidentally, is pronounced NOR-rich.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains operated by National Express depart London's Liverpool Street Station twice an hour for the under-two-hour ride to Norwich, with return trains operating until mid-evening. Service is reduced on Sundays and holidays. For schedules W: nationalrail.co.uk.

By Car, Norwich is 109 miles northeast of London. Take the M11 to Great Chesterford, then the A11.

PRACTICALITIES:

Norwich may be visited at any time of the year, but avoid coming on a Sunday or Monday, when some of the sights are closed. The local Tourist Information Centre, T: (01603) 727-927, W: visitnorwich.co.uk, is in The Forum on Millennium Plain, just south of Market Place. Norwich is in the county of Norfolk, and has a population of about 132,000.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

There are numerous pubs and restaurants along nearly all of the walking route. A few choices are:

Adlard’s (79 Upper St. Giles St., 4 blocks west of City Hall) Norwich’s best restaurant features contemporary cuisine in an elegant modern setting. Reserve, T: (01603) 633-522. X: Sun., Mon. lunch. £££

 Maid's Head Hotel (Tombland, near the cathedral) In business for over 700 years on the same site, this old hotel has two fine restaurants. T: (01603) 209-955. ££ and £££

Pinocchio’s (11 St. Benedict’s St., 2 blocks north of City Hall) A busy Italian brasserie with a large menu. T: (01603) 613-318. X: Sun., Mon. lunch. ££

Ribs of Beef (24 Wensum St., near the river, northwest of the cathedral) An Edwardian pub with river views and lunches. T: (01603) 619-517. £ and ££

Adam and Eve Pub (Bishopgate, northwest of the cathedral) Pub grub at Norwich’s oldest drinking establishment, reportedly established in 1249. T: (01603) 667-423. £

Britons Arms Coffee House (9 Elm Hill, between the cathedral and St. Peter Hungate) Light lunches in the quaintest of cottages. T: (01603) 623-367. X: Sun. £

The Waffle House (39 St. Giles St., a block west of City Hall) A huge variety of waffles stuffed with meats, cheeses, veggies, or whatever. Very popular. T: (01603) 612-790. £

Assembly House (Theatre St., south of the Market Place) Inexpensive cafeteria meals in an elegant Georgian structure. T: (01603) 626-402. X: Sun. £

    Click on map to enlarge

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leave the train station (1) and follow the map to Tombland, a delightful open square. Pass through the Erpingham Gate of 1420 and visit:

*NORWICH CATHEDRAL (2), T: (01603) 218-300, W: cathedral.org.uk. Open daily 7:30 a.m. to 6 p.m. Evensong Mon.-Fri. at 5:15, Sat. and Sun. at 3:30. Suggested donation ££. Café. Gift shop. Tours.

Begun in 1096, this is, with the exception of Durham, the most completely Norman cathedral in England. Its spire towers to a lofty 315 feet, exceeded in height only by that of Salisbury. The most magnificent view is of its east end, which is supported by majestic flying buttresses.

Enter the exceptionally long nave (photo, right) and look up at the marvelous *roof bosses. These tell the story of both Testaments, but make it clear only to those with eagle eyes or binoculars as they are 70 feet above your head. The choir has some extremely good wood carvings, especially on the *misericords. The ancient Bishop's Throne, behind the high altar, is older than the cathedral itself and probably dates from the 8th century. Stroll past the rounded apse, paying attention to the lovely St. Luke's Chapel, and then go out into the cloisters. These contain some wonderfully sculpted *bosses, even better than those in the nave.

Leave the cathedral via the south transept and follow the map through its lovely close to Pull's Ferry (3). Built in the 15th century, this was once a water gate from which a canal ran to the cathedral. Stroll along the riverside walk past the playing field. There is a beautiful view of the cathedral from here and, with luck, perhaps a cricket match in progress. Continue on past the 13th-century Bishop Bridge, one of the oldest spans in England still in use. Cow Tower, just as ancient, guards a bend in the river. The path ends at the Adam and Eve pub, which claims to have been here since 1249. Walk down Palace Street and return to Tombland.

Elm Hill (4) (photo, left) is the most delightful street in Norwich. The quaint medieval houses lining this cobbled lane have all been restored and are now used as antique shops, art galleries, restaurants, and the like. Be sure to stroll down the alleyways that lead between the buildings. Probably the oldest structure here is the Britons Arms, a 15th-century timbered building with a thatched roof.

Take a look down Princes Street, then turn right and stroll over to the Bridewell Museum (5). Housed in a 16th-century merchant's home later used as a prison for tramps and beggars, the museum features intriguing displays of local crafts and industries. T: (01603) 129-127. Open Tues.-Fri. 10-4:30, Sat. 10-5. £.

Return to St. Andrew's Street and turn left to the Strangers' Hall Museum (6), a complex, rambling structure that dates in part from 1320 and was also once a merchant's house. Since 1922 this has been the city's museum of domestic life, with exhibits covering a range of decor and furnishings from early Tudor to late Victorian times. The building itself is well worth the visit, and the displays within are absolutely first rate. T: (01603) 667-229. Open Wed.-Sat. 10:30-4:30. Closed Christmas to mid-Feb. £.

Walk over to the Market Place (7), bounded on the north by the 15th-century Guildhall, presently home of Caley’s Tea Rooms, and to the west by the overpowering City Hall of 1938. A colorful outdoor market has been held here since the Middle Ages, a tradition that continues every day except Sundays. If you visit only one other church besides the cathedral, be sure to make it St. Peter Mancroft (8), the most outstanding in Norwich. Located just south of the market, this splendid 15th-century parish church is noted for its fine hammerbeam ceiling and the medieval stained glass in its east window.

Just west of this stands The Forum, a stunning new structure housing the tourist office, a library, a heritage center, restaurants, shops, BBC studios, and more. It is also home to the U.S.A.A.F. Memorial Library, devoted to the memory of the American airmen stationed nearby during World War II.

It is only a short stroll to the Assembly House (9), a graceful Georgian structure whose interior preserves the flavor of the 19th century. Now used for civic and cultural functions, it may be visited and is also a good place for inexpensive meals or elegant teas.

Follow the map back to the east end of Market Place and turn right through Royal Arcade, passing the unusual Colman’s Mustard Shop & Museum, celebrating the long history of one of Norwich’s most famous products. Open Mon.-Sat., 9:30-5. Free.

Continue on to:

 *NORWICH CASTLE (10), T:(01603) 764-385. Open Mon.-Fri. 10-4:30, Sat. 10-5, Sun. 1-5, remaining open later during summer holidays. Admission price varies by sections visited; ££ to £££. Café. Gift shop.

Norwich Castle was begun by Henry I about 1130 on a lofty mound overlooking the city. Heavily altered, it was used as a prison until 1887 and is now a museum of  major importance. The superb collections range from art, particularly that of the Norwich School, to local archaeology, natural history, and social history. Don't miss taking one of the spine-chilling Dungeon Tours, which include a steep climb to the battlements followed by a descent into the hellish prison dungeons (photo, right). Recent additions include interactive hands-on displays of Norman history along with a section devoted to East Anglia’s own Queen Boadicea, whose Iceni tribe ravaged the Romans in AD 60. You can even test-drive a reproduction of her chariot.

From here it's an easy walk back to the station.

Copyright © 2003 by Earl Steinbicker, updated to 2009.

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1066 — William the Conqueror at Pevensey, England

From Extraordinary Places ... Close to London by Elizabeth Wallace, another chapter in the saga of the Norman Conquest. The author has graciously allowed me to post these on my blog.

Pevensey

The comet streaked through the sky on April 24, 1066, and stayed in the night sky for 7 days. The monks called it cometa, the hairy star, but King Harold and the Witan believed it was a bad omen and that they were doomed. The Anglo-Saxon Chronicles mentions this event as William the Conqueror, otherwise known as the Duke of Normandy, amassed an army to invade England and take the crown he believed had been unjustly refused him. It would be the last time England was invaded and conquered, changing the course of history and the life of every Briton.

The key events that led to the invasion of England during the year of 1066 varies from Anglo-Saxon and Norman accounts but one thing is clear: William believed the crown of England was his and his alone. There is some evidence to suggest that Harold had met with William years earlier and implied that William’s claim was appropriate since he was a distant cousin of King Edward the Confessor, whose marriage to Edith was childless. In any event, it had been clearly understood by William that he would inherit the crown when Edward died. 

As King Edward lay dying on January 4, 1066, passing in and out of delirium, the Witan, a group of wise men that advised the king, pondered an heir. They believed their prayers had been answered when the king took Harold Godwin’s hand and proclaimed, “…I also commend to you those men who have left their lands for love of me…” he then gave instructions for his burial. The comment could have meant he intended Harold to continue his lifelong devotion to the crown but the Witan seized the opportunity to place an Englishman on the throne. They prepared for the coronation the following day. It was be a short and turbulent reign that ended on the battlefield ten months later.

The news of Edward the Confessor’s death and the hasty coronation of King Harold spread quickly across the channel. It is said that William was infuriated as he received the news and shut himself away for days as he pondered what should be done. He had made it known throughout Normandy that he would be crowned King of England and now that the crown had been refused him, he would be seen as a weak and ineffective leader. 

During the next few weeks, envoys were dispatched back and forth across the channel suggesting the coronation had been a terrible mistake and that he, William, was ready to assume the responsibility of the monarchy. He reminded Harold that he had sworn on holy relics of his intention of placing William on the throne of England, but these pleas went unanswered.

The Normans were a particularly fierce and combative people. William’s father, Robert I, Duke of Normandy, saw to it that his illegitimate young son, born as the result of his relationship with Arletta, the daughter of a tanner, would be trained as a skilled knight. 

William (image, left) was born in either 1027 or 1028. It is said that he was a difficult young man who often challenged authoritative figures. When he was very young, his father left Normandy to fight in the Holy Land. Before he departed, he spoke to his counsel and advised them that his son William was the rightful heir to the title of Duke of Normandy and although he was small, he would grow into a fine and worthy leader. He must have seen his own fate because he died on route to the Holy Land and young William inherited the title of Duke of Normandy.

The following years in Normandy were turbulent times and, with no strong leader to guide them, the barons took full advantage of the chaos. They began building personal armies to protect themselves and their assets. Influential families sent their sons off early in their lives to be trained as hardened knights, but most of them had no formal education and were illiterate. William’s family protected him by placing him with various family members at secret locations. He bloomed early and showed an interest in politics and military affairs, taking the Truce of God when he was 14 years old. The Truce of God was a prelude to knighthood where specific guidelines of chivalry and honor were learned and sworn to uphold. He was knighted when he was only 16 years of age.

William distinguished himself as he fought for the King of France as his vassal. He showed that he was a ruthless and cruel man capable of inflicting terrible punishment on those who opposed him. Although illiterate, he was an extraordinary military tactician, which was not lost on the king. Over the following decades William became a strong leader and was well regarded by the knights of Normandy.

During this relatively harsh and combative time in Normandy, the English people had led a contented life under the reign of Edward the Confessor, who was not a strong monarch and left the guidance of the country in Harold’s care. The people were reluctant to fight even if the king demanded it, as they had grown accustomed to living in harmony with their neighbors.

The Anglo-Saxons had laws that they firmly believed no man was above, even the king himself. There were also severe laws regarding weaponry such as the use of the bow and arrow. It was seen as a gentleman’s sport and, therefore, not suitable for the regular soldier. The English soldiers fought hand-to-hand combat with swords and axes; even their horses were no more than shaggy ponies, normally used to carrying loads.

The Anglo-Saxon Chronicles and the Bayeux Tapestry describe the weeks following Harold’s coronation. It is said that William sulked for some time and then decided he would attack England and seize the crown for himself. The chronicles describe how he courted the sympathetic barons of Normandy with promises of untold wealth if they joined him with their armies. Many agreed to accompany him, and he began to build an armada of considerable size, but some were skeptical since an endeavor of this magnitude had never been attempted. Crossing the channel was difficult under the best weather conditions, but to cross with thousands of men, their specially bred stallions, armory, food and water seemed ridiculous to contemplate.

It is not known whether William was aware that the Viking King of Norway, Harald Hardrada, also intended to invade Britain before the winter. It was September 25 and both invading armies were restless and eager for battle. Winter was looming and unless the weather turned in their favor soon, they would have to retreat and wait until the spring. 

Harold heard that the Vikings had landed on the East Coast of England while he was in London and so set off at once, marching 195 miles north to Stamford Bridge. Harold and his men were victorious but they had little time to celebrate, as news came that William had landed at Pevensey. Harold immediately turned his army around and fast-marched them southward for a distance of 250 miles. The trek was accomplished in 13 days, an unbelievable military maneuver. During this time it was learned that William had the blessing of the church, and that the pope had excommunicated Harold. This lay heavily on Harold’s shoulders, and it is believed that a change came over him as he traveled to Pevensey.

After landing at Pevensey, William marched his men six miles inland and camped for the night. It is said that William’s army spent the evening in prayer while Harold’s men drank beer, told stories and sang songs. At dawn the following morning on October 14, 1066, the two armies faced each other. Harold had the logistical advantage atop the Senlac ridge and had a larger army. The Norman soldiers fought as they had in Normandy; their expert archers filled the skies with waves of arrows that pierced the English troops’ armor and they dropped by the hundreds. Still, the English army would not be deterred and they continued to move forward mounting a counterattack. Several Norman knights on horseback turned as if in retreat and some of Harold’s men foolishly pursued them, leaving their posts unguarded. William immediately saw the tactical advantage and instructed others to do likewise causing more disruption to the English troops as they left their flanks unguarded. 

The battle continued for the whole day and it is said the English were brave and met their death honorably. In a recent article in the Daily Mail, William was quoted as saying, “They stood firmly, as if fixed to the ground, the dead by falling, seemed to move more than the living.” King Harold died alongside his men from an arrow in the eye and was then cut to ribbons by Norman knights because he was unable to defend himself. 

William was crowned King of England on Christmas Day 1066, and he swore, as part of the coronation oath, to preserve the “good and ancient laws” of the Anglo-Saxon kings. Part of those laws was the tradition of calling several men to swear an oath endorsing a litigant’s claim. This, in turn, developed into the jury system we see today.

William had promised himself that if he defeated Harold, he would build an abbey in his opponent’s honor. After the triumphant battle, he kept his promise and built an abbey at Battle on the site where Harold lost his life. The two men were of similar age and it is believed they liked and respected each other. However, records tell us that William did not like the English people or the countryside and never tried to learn their language. He honored his commitment to the knights of Normandy who followed him into battle by awarding them various parts of England. They became the new gentry, married Anglo-Saxon women and settled down to a less combative life.

The Domesday Book (compilation of which began in 1086) documented every village, inhabitant, cattle and building upon which a tax could be levied. The sheriff collected the taxes that were presented to the Treasurer on a table covered with a checkered cloth, eventually leading to the title of Chancellor of the Exchequer used today. The people of England were so afraid of the information collected in the book that they called it The Domesday Book after God’s final day of judgment.

William spent very little time in the country after the invasion, preferring to leave the administration to his half brother, Bishop Odo. He returned to Normandy and fought with the king whom he had served as a vassal.

It is suggested by chronicles of the day that William was unhappy at the outcome of the battle with Harold, and that he was impressed with the loyalty and dedication of the men to their king. William had conquered Britain but not the people who remained defiant and stubborn. On his deathbed, he repented his treatment of the English people but they would never forgive him and his cruel punishment. Although they refused to speak French and assimilate Norman customs, their lives were never the same.

What to see and do today:

Pevensey Castle

The strategic location of Pevensey was not lost on William the Conqueror or the Romans before him. The castle was one of many Shore Forts that were built by the Romans throughout England, and William simply used what was left of the castle for his own purposes. He gave the stronghold to Bishop Odo, who built a castle of his own within the walls of the Roman structure. 

The castle walls are more than 12 feet thick in places and there are still walls over 20 feet high today, giving an excellent idea of what the castle would have looked like a 1,000 years ago. Pevensey castle has a moat that made a frontal attack and underground assault almost impossible. The most common way to attack an apparently impregnable castle was be to mine underground. The men were called sappers or miners who tunneled towards the castle wall or tower, shoring the tunnel as they went with posts impregnated with hog grease. Once the tunnel was completed, the posts and other combustible materials were set alight; causing an inferno that would collapse the wall or tower and provide access to the castle.

 

The village of Pevensey is small, with several half-timbered and flint houses. In addition to being an ancient town mentioned in the Domesday Book, the Romans inhabited the town between A.D. 250 and 300. When the Romans abandoned the village around A.D. 408, the Anglo-Saxons seized the castle.

Open: Daily 10:00 a.m. until 5:00 p.m. from March to October and from October to March from Wednesday until Sunday 10:00 a.m. until 5:00 p.m.

The Tudor Mint House (Antique Shop)

The mint stands close to the walls of the castle and is believed to be where the first coins were struck during William’s reign. It is also mentioned in the Domesday Book. The original building is rumored to have had a secret passage that led from the castle to the mint as men carried the products back and forth. Coins were struck at this site through the reigns of William the Conqueror, William Rufus, Henry I and King Stephen from 1076 until 1154. Several of the coins minted at this location are exhibited at the British Museum and other museums around the country. 

The present building was built in 1342 and is a splendid half-timbered house with dark red tiles and overhanging eaves. It is rumored to be haunted by a young woman who was the mistress of Thomas Dight, who rented the house. Dight returned home unexpectedly one evening to find his lady in the arms of another. Retribution was swift and the poor girl died slowly and painfully; it is her ghost that appears dressed in a close-fitted dress and a ruffle around her neck. 

The Old Mint Antique Shop is one of the largest wholesale antique distributors in the country, and they ship worldwide. They have approximately 10,000 items in the shop and warehouse behind the property. The merchandise changes frequently and offers a wide display of antiques of every kind.

Telephone: (0) 762337. Address: High Street, Pevensey.

 

Court House and Gaol

It is said to be the smallest town hall in England, with the gaol on the ground floor and the courtroom above. The courthouse is now a museum and is only open at special times for viewing. Call for details.

Telephone: (0) 1323 411400. Eastbourne Tourist Information Center.

1066 Walks

The 1066 walk from Pevensey Castle via Battle and on to Rye is a 31-mile hike through the countryside that William himself walked after he landed at Pevensey. The walk can be broken into smaller segments with refreshments or even accommodations en route. There are several brochures available from the tourism office that advises walkers of the points of historic interest, flora and wildlife.

Telephone: (0) 1424 781111. Hastings Tourist Information Center.

Food for thought:

The Smugglers Inn

The Smugglers Inn was built in 1541 on the main road in Pevensey. It is listed on the official ghost tour of Pevensey but the landlord has never seen a ghost. The inn has retained the character and charm of centuries passed with low ceilings, heavily wooden beams and two fireplaces. It is decorated with traditional horse brasses, unusual china plates and accessories. The inn serves a wonderful roast dinner on Sundays as well as a varied menu throughout the week. It is a favorite for the local people in winter, with a roaring fireplace, and in summer when the beer garden is used.

Telephone: (0) 1323 762112. Address: High Street, Pevensey.

If you decide to stay:

The Smugglers Inn

The Smugglers Inn has three guest bedrooms, all with bathrooms en suite, tea or coffee facilities and televisions in each room. The rooms are decorated in a soft, comfortable style and kept in character with the low ceilings, small windows and wood-beamed ceilings and walls. A traditional English breakfast is served each morning and an evening meal can be arranged on request.

Telephone: (0) 1323 762112. Address: High Street, Pevensey.

How to get there:

There is direct train service from London Victoria to Pevensey. Travel time is approximately 1 hour and 45 minutes.

By car: Take A21 south out of London to Hastings. In Hastings take A259 west directly to Pevensey. Pevensey is approximately 63 miles away from central London.

Text Copyright © 2004 by Elizabeth Wallace

Photos of Pevensey Castle and Pevensey High Street are by Brian Voon Yee Yap, used under GNU Free Documentation License.

More can be found on Elizabeth's website: extraordinaryplaces.blogspot.com

OTHER PLACES close to London on this blog include: Battle, Bluebell Railway, Cookham, Docklands, Faversham, Pluckley, Richmond, Romney, Hythe & Dymchurch, Royal Tunbridge Wells, Rye, Windsor & Eton. Click on names to open files.

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