Life's Little Adventures

Stratford-upon-Avon, England

Sooner or later, just about everyone who visits England makes the journey to Stratford. Here's an easy way of doing it yourself, taken directly from my guidebook Daytrips London and updated to 2009 for inclusion in the 2010 Eighth Edition.

Trip 40

*Stratford-upon-Avon

As someone once remarked, there's no business like show business. That, put simply, is what Stratford-upon-Avon is all about. The whole town is one vast theater, entertaining thousands of visitors a day. Despite this, it has miraculously managed to avoid the worst of tourism's trappings and still retains a quite genuine charm. Just about everyone who goes there enjoys the experience.

William Shakespeare was born in Stratford in 1564. This is also where he lived a great deal of his life and where he died in 1616. Many of the buildings associated with the Bard have been lovingly preserved and may be visited. The Royal Shakespeare Theatre, one of the greatest anywhere, is beautifully situated on the banks of the quiet Avon. There are several others attractions, some relating to Shakespeare and others not, but perhaps in the long run it is simply the atmosphere of this delightful old market town that is so memorable.

The best way to savor Stratford is to stay overnight and perhaps take in a performance at the theater. Those with cars will find that it makes an ideal base for exploring the Midlands and the Cotswolds. If you can't do this, however, a daytrip from London is still very enjoyable.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains depart London's Paddington and Marylebone stations several times in the morning for Stratford-upon-Avon. Journey times vary between 2 and 2½ hours. Return trains operate until late evening.

Those staying over for a few days can take advantage of the Shakespeare Country Explorer, a one- or four-day combination deal that includes round-trip rail travel from London’s Paddington or Marylebone stations to Leamington Spa, Warwick, Warwick Parkway, or Stratford-upon-Avon, and locl travel between those towns. These tickets are sold at both Paddington and Marylebone stations in London.

 

Special Packages including rail and/or coach transportation, overnight accommodations, theater tickets, and dinner are available through travel agents in London and elsewhere.

By Car, take the A40 and M40 to Junction 15, then the A46 to Stratford-upon-Avon, which is 96 miles northwest of London.

PRACTICALITIES:

The major sights in Stratford are open daily except on December 25 and 26, with generally longer hours from April through October. A colorful outdoor market is held on Fridays at the square joining Greenhill and Wood streets. Visitors coming out of season will avoid the tourist throngs. The local Tourist Information Centre,  T: (0870) 160-7930, W: shakespeare-country.co.uk, is at Bridgefoot, between the canal and the bridge. You might ask them about renting a bicycle for a spin in the country.

VAQAS City Sightseeing operates a convenient hop-on, hop-off open-top double-decker bus service on a circular route connecting all of the tourist sights in and around Stratford-upon-Avon. These run very frequently from the tourist office, all year round. One-day, unlimited use tickets cost £££. T: (01789) 299-123, W: citysightseeing-stratford.com.

Stratford is in the county of Warwickshire, and has a population of about 22,000.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

There are plenty of good restaurants and pubs in Stratford, including:

(List being revised for 2010 edition)

Click on map to enlarge

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

 

Leave the train station (1) and follow the map to that most logical of beginnings:

*SHAKESPEARE’S BIRTHPLACE (2), T: (01789) 204-016, W: shakespeare.org.uk. Open Jan.-March and Nov.-Dec., Mon.-Sun. 10-4; Apr.-Oct., Mon.-Sun. 10-5. £££. A reduced price joint ticket covering the three in-town “Shakespeare Properties” is available: £££. Another combination covers these plus Anne Hathaway’s Cottage and Mary Arden’s House: ££££. All properties are partially handicap accessible, but inquiries should be made first.

Shakespeare's Birthplace is actually two houses joined together, the eastern half having been his father's shop and the western half the family residence. To the left of it is the modern Shakespeare Centre, which houses exhibitions, a library, and a study center. Enter this and wander through the delightful garden, complete with flowers, shrubs, and trees mentioned in his plays. The well-marked trail then takes you into the old house itself, where you will visit the bedroom in which Shakespeare was presumably born on or about April 23, 1564. The entire house is furnished as it might have been in his youth, including an interesting period kitchen and an oak-beamed living room.

Return on Henley Street, walk down Bridge Street, and turn right at Waterside. Stroll through Bancroft Gardens, going past the canal basin and locks. Overlooking this pleasant scene is the Gower Memorial, a life-size bronze statue of the Bard with figures of Hamlet, Lady Macbeth, Falstaff, and Prince Hal. The tourist office is nearby, as is Cox’s Yard (3). This complex on the banks of the River Avon is complete with shops, a micro brewery, a pub, and restaurants.

 

Continue on and cross the footbridge over the Avon (4), a span formerly used by the horse-drawn tramway that once connected Stratford with Moreton-in-Marsh. From here you will have a beautiful view of the river and the modern Royal Shakespeare Theatre. The 15th-century Clopton Bridge with its 14 arches, to the left, still carries heavy traffic.

Return and walk over to the Royal Shakespeare Theatre (5).  Built in 1932 to replace a smaller 19th-century theater that burned down, its performances of Shakespearian plays are world-famous. Although tickets should be booked well in advance, they are frequently available on the day of performance. The attached RSC Collection has interesting mementoes of theatrical personalities and other Shakespeariana. NOTE that the Theatre is presently closed for restoration and will re-open in 2010. Meanwhile, the closeby Courtyard Theatre of 2006 presents the shows. T: (0844) 800-1110, W: rsc.org.uk. Restaurants. Bars. Gift shops. 

Continue on to *Holy Trinity Church (6), the scene of Shakespeare's baptism in 1564 and burial in 1616. Copies of the church registers showing both events are on display. His tomb is inscribed with the famous lines ending in “and curst be he that moves my bones.” There are a few other interesting items in this 14th-century church, particularly the humorous misericords under the choir seats. T: (01789) 266-316. Open March and Oct., Mon.-Sat. 9-5, Sun. 12:30-5; April-Sept., Mon.-Sat. 8:30-6, Sun. 12:30-5; Nov.-Feb. Mon.-Sat. 9-4, Sun. 12:30-5. Closed Good Friday, Christmas Day, Dec. 26, New Year's Day. Church free. Donation to view tomb ₤.

Hall's Croft (7) on Old Town is the next stop. This splendid Tudor house was the home of Shakespeare's eldest daughter, Susanna, and her husband, Dr. John Hall. Its interior is well worth visiting for a glimpse of how a prosperous doctor's family lived in those days. Be sure to see the dispensary with its surgical instruments, herbs, and potions. A stroll through the garden in the rear is a delight. T: (01789) 204-016. Open April-Oct., daily 10-5; Nov.-March, daily 11-4. Town House Ticket includes 3 other Shakespeare properties, see Birthplace above Restaurant and tea room.

Turn right on Church Street and pass, on the right, the King Edward VI Grammar School, where the young Shakespeare learned his “small Latin and less Greek.” Adjoining this is the 15th-century Guild Chapel with its noted fresco of the Last Judgement above the chancel arch. Just beyond, on Chapel Street, is the site of Shakespeare's own home, New Place (8), which he purchased in 1597 and in which he died in 1616. Its last owner, disturbed by tourists, demolished it in 1759; today only the foundations and garden remain. These can be reached by going through the New Place Museum in the former home of Thomas Nash, who was married to Shakespeare's granddaughter, Elizabeth Hall. Open same times as Hall’s Croft, above. ££. See Shakespeare’s Birthplace, above, for details on reduced-price combination tickets.

Harvard House (9) has nothing to do with the Bard, but a lot to do with Harvard University. This outstanding example of a half-timbered Elizabethan structure was the home of the mother of John Harvard, whose donations helped found the famous institution in the U.S.A. Its richly decorated interior, filled with pewter from Roman times to the Victorian era, may be visited. T: (01789) 204-016. Opening times vary. ₤, free to holders of combo ticket.

Adjacent to this are two other buildings of similar style and age, one of them being the well-known Garrick Inn, named for the actor David Garrick who organized the first Shakespeare Festival here in 1769.

While in Stratford you will probably want to see:

 *ANNE HATHAWAY’S COTTAGE (10), T: (01789) 204-016, W: shakespeare.org.uk. Open same times as Shakespeare’s Birthplace, above. ££. See Shakespeare’s Birthplace, above, for details on reduced-price combination tickets.

This is certainly one of the prettiest (and most visited) sights in England. The home of Shakespeare's wife before their marriage, this 16th-century thatched-roof farmhouse is set in gorgeous surroundings. The furnishings are fairly authentic as the cottage remained in her family until late Victorian times. Located in the nearby hamlet of Shottery, about one mile from Stratford, it is easily reached by bus from Bridge Street or, better still, by rented bicycle, or on foot via a country path that begins at Evesham Place. The route is well marked and is shown on the map and its insert. Return by way of the other path to Alcester Road and the train station.

ADDITIONAL ATTRACTION:

Too far to walk to, but reachable by car, bus, bicycle, taxi, or the sightseeing bus, is the renowned:

MARY ARDEN’S HOUSE and THE SHAKESPEARE COUNTRYSIDE MUSEUM (11), Wilmcote, T: (01789) 204-016, W: shakespeare.org.uk. Open April-Oct., daily 10-5; Nov.-March, daily 10-4. £££. See Shakespeare’s Birthplace, above, for information about reduced-price combination tickets. Café.

Mary Arden, Shakespeare’s mother, is believed to have lived here before she married John Shakespeare and moved to Stratford-upon-Avon. Located some three miles northwest of Stratford, this Tudor farmstead continued farming operations into the 20th century and was purchased by the Shakespeare Birthplace Trust in 1930. The farm buildings making up the museum include a dovecote, barns, a second farmhouse, and a working blacksmith’s forge. There are displays of rural life in the area from Shakespeare’s time to the near-present, rare breeds of farm animals, falconry demonstrations, and a variety of events such as sheep shearing.

Copyright © 2003 by Earl Steinbicker, updated to 2009.

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CHECK OUT Daytrips London by clicking on its title in the box below (left), or on the Buy button to purchase. For more about Shakespeare, check out this recent biography by a noted scholar, in the box to the right.

Last Year at Marienbad Redux

People either hate or love this hypnotic 1961 movie — there is no middle ground. It has long been regarded by some as the highest of high art, by others as the most pretentious p.o.s. ever made. Until now, there was little possibility of checking it out for yourself as it was only available on a badly-made VHS tape or the even worse DVD derived from that tape. BUT NOW (summer 2009) the good folks at Criterion have fully restored it on a stunning two-disc set with beautiful, haunting images composed with rich, silky blacks and luminous whites. Fans of black-and-white photography will thrill to the tonalities here, even if the plot escapes them. Reminiscent of 1930's fashion photography (think Chanel), it features exquisite lighting and careful compositions. All of the dialog is in French with English subtitles, and the original name of the film is L' Année dernière à Marienbad.

The story, such as it is, depends completely on the viewer's imagination and participation as a co-author. You only get out of it what you put in. If, like me, you are content with absorbing waves of gorgeous images enhanced by an appropriate musical score, you won't need a plot. Otherwise, it might go something like this: Character X, a handsome male member of Europe's idle rich, meets Character A, a stunning young lady at an unnamed aristocratic spa rich in baroque décor (photo, above). He tries to convince her that they met before, possibly last year, at another spa, perhaps Marienbad (now Mariánské Lázne), and they possibly had an affair. Enter Character M, who might be A's husband, or lover, or not. An allegorical game, at which M could lose but never does, may or may not play a pivotal role.

Past and present, memory and reality, fact and fiction are juxtaposed without transition or explanation. So, it's up to the viewer to make some sense out of it, or just lay back and let the haunting images wash all over you.   

I saw this film at a small art house in Greenwich Village on, I believe, West 8th Street between Fifth and Sixth avenues, in 1961 or possibly '62. Soon after that I purchased a book (photo, left) of the text for the film for the princely sum of $1.95. Although quite battered, I still treasure it.

Finding myself in Munich a few years later, I visited Schloss Nymphenburg, where much of the 1960 filming was done, especially the famous scene in the gardens (photo, below) in which the trees, statues, and other fixtures cast no shadows while the people cast long ones. How this was done is quite simple; it was shot at high noon and the actor's shadows were painted on the walkways. Obviously, the actors could not move, and the scene is quite short. At the time I was playing with a new toy, a Fuji Single 8 movie camera loaded with grainy black-and-white film, attempting to capture some of the old magic.

The new (2009) Criterion set contains a second disc featuring recent interviews with director Alain Resnais and others, a half-hour "making of" documentary, a critical analysis, and two short earlier films by the same director.

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You can rent this new restoration from Netflix or, better still, purchase it from Amazon. For more details and reviews (both good and bad), click on its title in the box below (left), or on the Buy button to purchase.

There is also a relatively new (2008) book in English describing the making of the film, its reception, and so on. Click on its title in the box below (right) to find out more:

Flipping for the Flip

Just a few weeks ago I purchased a tiny Flip Video Camera from Amazon.com at a very attractive price. This was a completely whimsical move as I thought that anything this small and simple could only be a toy. To my surprise, it actually produces good-quality images and quite decent sound when played back on a computer or TV set.

About the size of a small cell phone, it easily fits in a shirt pocket. There are virtually no controls, just a start/stop button and a little bit of digital zoom. For super steadiness, however, there is a conventional tripod socket. An internal USB plug connects it to a computer, and there is an output jack for viewing on a TV set. It is amazingly sensitive in low light situations. The built-in microphone however is only really effective at short range — conversations ten feet or so away just become background buzz.

One problem with the ultra-compact design is the lack of a viewfinder. Both aiming, composing, and keeping track of whether it is actually recording, the length in seconds of scenes, when it has stopped recording, and the amount of available memory left are all displayed on the rear LCD screen. This can be difficult to see in bright light situations. I have experimented with using the Hoodman attachment to my Fuji digital still camera to overcome this. It works well, but is a bit clumsy. The photo on the right is me pointing the Flip into a mirror. I cropped the sides off to fit the space.

The real beauty of this tiny camera is that it can always be with you, ready to instantly record life's little adventures— those unexpected events that just pop up without warning. Its close-focus and low-light capabilities make it ideal for taking notes, complete with sound and color. And if it ever goes "dead," it can be revived by inserting fresh AA batteries, available everywhere. 

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To find out more about it, click on its name just under its picture in the box below. Be aware that there are several different models at different prices and with different capabilities, but this link will let you check out each one by navigating and clicking. You should also check the various comments and star ratings given to it on the Amazon site by users.

 

NEWS! Another similar camera with more advanced features has been announced by Kodak. Although not available until September 1, 2009, it can be checked out by clicking on its name (not the buy button) in the box below:

The Chiemsee, Germany

From the pages of my guidebooks Daytrips Germany and the more compact Daytrips Bavaria, here's an easy do-it-yourself trip from Munich that features a lake cruise, a ride on a steam train, and a visit to one of Europe's most fabulous palaces — crazy King Ludwig's incomparable Herrenchiemsee.

Trip 19

The Chiemsee

The enchanting Chiemsee, Bavaria's largest lake, lies just north of the Alps within easy reach of Munich. It was on an island in these idyllic waters that Ludwig II, the unbalanced "Dream King," built a Teutonic version of Versailles as his final castle. He was not the first to appreciate the lonely beauty of this spot, however. As far back as 782 a Benedictine convent was founded on a neighboring island; its 15th-century replacement remains there to this day, as does an old fishing community that is fast becoming a modest resort. Between the nearby town of Prien and the ferry dock a 19th-century narrow-gauge steam train shuttles enthusiastic visitors out for a day of fun, sun, and exploration.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains depart Munich's main station several times in the morning for the one-hour ride to Prien, the starting point of this trip. Return service operates until mid-evening.

By Car, the Chiemsee is 85 km (54 miles) southeast of Munich via the A-8 Autobahn. Use the Bernau exit and follow signs for Prien, parking at the ferry dock.

PRACTICALITIES:

The best time to visit the Chiemsee is between late May and late September, when boats are frequent and the steam train operates. The castle is open daily all year round, except for a few major holidays. Some boats operate during the off-season. Good weather will greatly enhance this trip. The local Tourist Information Office (Kur-und-Tourismusbüro), T: (08051) 690-50, W: prien.chiemsee.de, is at Altes Rathaus Strasse 11, near the train station in Prien.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

Some choice restaurants and cafés are:

AT STOCK-HAFEN:

    Reinhart (Seestr. 117, near the pier) Rustic country charm. T: (08051) 694-401. X: Feb.-March. €€

Luitpold am See (Seestr. 110, near the pier) Indoor/outdoor dining by the lake. T: (08051) 609-100. X: Mon. €€

Neuer am See (Seestr. 104, near the pier) Snacks and meals by the lake. T: (08051) 609-960. X: Oct.-April. € and €€

ON HERRENINSEL:

Schlosshotel Herrenchiemsee (by the Altes Schloss) Noted for its fish dishes, also has outdoor tables and a café. T: (08051) 690-30. €€

Café Ludwig II (in the Schloss Herrenchiemsee) Light meals and snacks on the terrace. T: (08051) €

ON FRAUENINSEL:

Zur Linde (near the pier) A gasthof from the 14th century. T: (08054) 903-66. X: Jan. to mid-March. €€

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Begin at the Prien Train Station (1). From there you can get to the ferry pier (Stock-Hafen) by either the 19th-century *Chiemsee Bahn steam train departing from the adjacent station, or by bus, depending on which is running at the moment. Just follow the crowds — they're going to the same place. T: (08051) 60-90, W: chiemsee-schifffahrt.de. €.  A combination round-trip ticket for the steam train or bus plus the ferry rides is available, €€. If you decide to walk, or are driving, just follow Seestrasse for about one mile.

Ferries for the two islands depart from the Stock-Hafen Pier (2), and are timed to meet the arrival of trains and buses. Boat tickets are also sold there.

The Chiemsee (pronounced keem-zay) covers an area of over 31 square miles and has three islands; one of which, Krautinsel, is uninhabited. Of the other two, Herreninsel (Men's Island) has had a monastery since the Middle Ages, and Fraueninsel (Ladies' Island) a nunnery since 782. According to legend, Krautinsel (Vegetable Island) was the spot where the monks and nuns got together, at least to grow veggies.

The boat ride to Herreninsel takes only 15 minutes. Upon arrival at its landing stage (3), purchase your palace ticket (also valid for Altes Schloss) and walk uphill (or take the horse-drawn coach, €) to the 17th-century Altes Schloss (4), once the home of Augustinian canons. There is an attractive outdoor café and restaurant in its precincts. There is also the Museum im Alten Schloss, where the 1,200-year history of the island is recounted. Open daily Apr.-Sept., 9-6; Oct. 10-5:45; Nov.-March 10-4:45. €, included with palace. From here a path leads through the woods, opening suddenly to reveal the palace in all its splendor.

King Ludwig II of Bavaria was just about the strangest monarch ever to rule a European country. Born centuries too late, he lived in a sheltered dreamworld of his own making. In the end, events swept him aside and he died tragically at the age of 40. The legacy he left behind, from the operas of Richard Wagner to the fantastic castles dotting the Bavarian landscape, has, however, greatly enriched all of Western civilization.

Rising before you is the:

*PALACE OF HERRENCHIEMSEE (5), T: (08051) 688-70, W: herren-chiemsee.de. Open April-Sept., daily 9-6; Oct., daily 9:40-5; Nov.-March, daily 9:40-4. Closed Jan. 1, Shrove Tues., Dec. 24, 25, 31. €€.

The Palace of Herrenchiemsee was Ludwig's final paean to an age that vanished long before he was born. Ludwig purchased the island, a religious center until 1803, as the site for his Teutonic Versailles. Louis XIV of France had long been his idol, and he made two visits to Paris to study the palace of the "Sun King." The similarity between the two buildings, while striking, is only superficial — most of the interior decoration at Herrenchiemsee is distinctly German. Construction began in 1878 and continued until 1885, when funds gave out. Ludwig occupied the unfinished Schloss on only one occasion, and then for only 10 days. This was in the fall of 1885. Less than a year later he was deposed, and afterwards found drowned in Lake Starnberg.

The interior of the palace is simply incredible. To see it you will have to join one of the very frequent guided tours, some of which are in English. An illustrated booklet describing the entire palace is available at the entrance, where there is also a small museum devoted to Ludwig's life.

Leaving the palace, walk straight ahead to the Latona Fountain (6), which erupts into jets of water at frequent intervals. From here stroll back to the landing stage and board the next boat for Fraueninsel. Ask to make sure that you are on the right boat, as some go to other points on the lake.

Arriving at the Fraueninsel landing stage (7), recheck the posted schedule to determine just how much time can be spent there. Turn left and walk around the Benedictine nunnery, founded in 782 and rebuilt several times. Its Abbey Church (8), dating from the 13th and 15th centuries and combining Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque elements, is very well worth a visit. W: frauenwoerth.de.

Besides the convent, Fraueninsel is essentially a fishing village, albeit one that is rapidly being taken over by vacationers. A circular stroll around its perimeter reveals an oasis of quiet beauty with a panorama of mountains to the south, a perfect spot to relax at one of the outdoor cafés before returning to Stock-Hafen, Prien, and Munich.

If you have time left in Prien, you might want to visit the town's Folk Museum (Heimatmuseum) in an old farmhouse at Friedhofweg 2, about three blocks west of the train station. Open Wed.-Sat., 10-12 and 2-5, with shorter times in winter. €.

Text, map, and palace photo copyright © 2009 by Earl Steinbicker.

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Shanklin, Isle of Wight, England

Here's another sample chapter from my guidebook Daytrips London, Seventh Edition. This has been updated in preparation for an eighth edition due in 2010.

Trip 26

Shanklin

(Isle of Wight)

A Daytrip from London

Just off the southern coast of England lies the Isle of Wight, a delightful island whose bracing air and spectacular scenery combine to form an unusual and very enjoyable daytrip destination. A favorite holiday retreat ever since the days of Queen Victoria, it remains relatively unknown to foreign travelers. Although the Isle of Wight shares a common heritage with the rest of England, its friendly people regard themselves as somehow different from the mainlanders. Here, British sophistication yields to simpler charms and London seems far away.

GETTING THERE:

Trains leave London's Waterloo Station hourly for Portsmouth Harbour Station, the ride taking about 1½ hours. On arrival there, follow the crowds to the pier, a part of the station complex, and board the Wightlink ferry to Ryde. BritRail Passes are not accepted on the boat, so you may have to buy a ticket. Fifteen minutes later you will disembark at Ryde Pier Head. Get on the waiting train marked for Shanklin and take it as far as Sandown, a ride of 17 minutes. You will probably be returning from Shanklin, so be sure to get a round-trip ticket from London to there if you do not have a BritRail Pass. Combined tickets including the ferry, and also for the I.O.W. Steam Railway are available. Check the return schedule on arrival to avoid missing the last evening connection back to London. Rail schedules at W: nationalrail.co.uk. Photo of ferry courtesy of IW Council, www.islandbreaks.co.uk.

By Car, follow the A3 from London to Portsmouth Harbour, a distance of 71 miles. Continue on by passenger ferry and rail or bus, as above. It is impractical to take a car to the Isle of Wight for only one day.

PRACTICALITIES:

The Isle of Wight is most attractive between mid-spring and early fall. Good weather is absolutely essential to enjoyment of this trip.

The local tourist office for Shanklin is at 67 High Street, near the Old Village, T: (01983) 862-942. For the island in general contact Isle of Wight Tourism, County Hall, Newport, I.O.W. PO30 1UD, T: (01983) 813-813, W: islandbreaks.co.uk. Ferry schedules are available at T: (0871) 376-1000, W: wightlink.co.uk. 

FOOD AND DRINK:

Being a popular tourist area, the Isle of Wight is well endowed with restaurants and pubs. Some choice establishments in Shanklin are:

[list is being revised for new edition]

Click on map to enlarge.

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Arriving by ferry at Ryde Pierhead (1), board one of the vintage London Underground cars that serve on the I.O.W. Electric Railway, W: island-line.co.uk, and ride it as far as Sandown Station (2). From there walk straight ahead down Station Avenue and make a right on Albert Road. This leads to The Esplanade, a road built atop a sea wall, which is crowded with vacationers during the season. The beach here is perhaps the best in England, with fine sand and a long, gradual slope. Ahead lies the Pier (3), an attractive modern structure; a stroll to its far end will reward you with a lovely panorama of sea, cliffs, and rolling hills.

Just beyond the pier turn right off The Esplanade and climb Ferncliff Crescent, which begins as steps. At the top make a left into Battery Gardens (4). Amble through this to Cliff Walk and follow the trail that leads to Shanklin. For the next 1½ miles the pathway, sometimes becoming a road, clings to the upper edge of a steep precipice. Far below, tiny bathing huts make a tenuous hold on the narrow strip of sand between sea and cliff. Midway, you will pass the settlement of Lake. Shanklin now opens into view and beyond it lie the hills that define the southern end of Sandown Bay.

 

Photo of Old Village courtesy of IW Council, www.islandbreaks.co.uk

At Shanklin, continue along the Cliff Walk to the Cliff Lift and turn right on Palmerston Road, following it to the center of town. At High Street make a left, passing the tourist office, and step right out of the present century. The Old Village (5), oozing with quaintness, is just about everyone's vision of that imagined England of long ago. Thatched-roof cottages line the streets, many of them now restaurants, pubs, and gift shops. A more romantic place to stop for lunch could hardly be desired.

Continue straight ahead on Church Road to the Old Parish Church of St. Blasius (6), one of the most beautifully situated country churches you'll ever encounter. Architecturally undistinguished and of uncer-tain age — parts of it may date from the 14th century — it nevertheless works a strange charm on the visitor. Be sure to see its interior and graveyard.

Return on Church Road and turn right on Priory Road, then left on Popham Road to Rylstone Public Park (7). This lovely spot of sylvan splendor overlooking the sea is a delight to explore and the perfect place to sit down for a rest.

From here, Chine Hollow leads to the upper entrance of:

*SHANKLIN CHINE (8), T: (01983) 866-145, W: shanklinchine.co.uk. Open April-June, daily 10-5; July to mid-Sept., daily 10-10; mid-Sept. through Oct., daily 10-5. ££. Tea garden. Gift shop.

 

Once notorious as the haunt of smugglers, Shanklin Chine descends into a deep and narrow ravine with plunging waterfalls. The word chine is peculiar to this area and derives from the Anglo-Saxon cine, meaning fissure. A path leads through the heavily wooded glen, passing a stone bridge, an aviary, a Heritage Centre, and a Victorian tea garden along the way. Following the right-hand trail after a fork near the lower end will reveal traces of Pluto, a secret pipeline built during World War II, which carried fuel from England across the channel to the Normandy beachhead.

At the end, where the stream runs into the sea, turn left and climb up onto The Esplanade, a road along the beach. From here you can follow the map to Shanklin Station (9) and begin the return journey. The nearby lift will save an uphill climb. Runs daily Easter to Oct. If you would rather walk some more, a particularly nice route to follow is along the beach to Sandown. There is a surfaced path going all the way.

 

ADDITIONAL ATTRACTION:

Photo of Steam Railway courtesy of IW Council, www.islandbreaks.co.uk.

I.O.W. STEAM RAILWAY (10), T: (01983) 882-204, W: island-line.co.uk, and click on "Steam Railway" in left column. Operates many days in April and Oct.-Dec.; most days in May-June and Sept.; daily in July-Aug. Check website for exact times and fares, or ask locally. 

Railfans, and many normal people as well, can enjoy a ride on the restored I.O.W. Steam Railway, departing from the Smallbrook Junction station of the I.O.W. Electric Railway, three stops south of the Ryde Pierhead station. This could be done either at the beginning or the end of your Isle of Wight daytrip.

Locomotives on the vintage trains date back as far as 1876; passengers cars from as far back as 1864! A wide variety of antique equipment is used, and rides can be made in either Third or First class — at different prices, of course.

Text and map copyright © 2003 by Earl Steinbicker, updated to 2009.

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The Wendelstein Mountain, Germany

Trip 22

The Wendelstein

A Daytrip from Munich

Towering at some 6,000 feet, the Wendelstein may not be the highest peak in the Bavarian Alps, but it does provide the focus for a very enjoyable daytrip. Münchners have been reveling in the view from its summit ever since Germany's first alpine rack railway was built there in 1912. A cable car down its other side has since been added, making possible an exciting circular tour. Add to this the charming small resort of Bayrischzell and you have the makings of a fun-filled day in the mountains.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains leave Munich's main station several times in the morning for the 90-minute ride direct to Bayrischzell. Those making the full circular trip will be returning via Brannenburg, from which trains to Munich run until early evening. Some of these require a change at Rosenheim. If you decide against making the full circuit you can return from Osterhofen as late as early evening. Be sure to check the schedules very carefully; they vary on weekends and holidays. Schedules are at W: bahn.de.

By Car, Bayrischzell is 77 km (48 miles) southeast of Munich. Take the A-8 Autobahn to the Irschenberg exit and head south on local roads past Schliersee to Bayrischzell. It is not very practical to make the full circular tour by car, although there is limited bus service (May to September only) from Brannenburg back to Osterhofen.

PRACTICALITIES:

Good weather is absolutely essential for this trip as it involves a few miles of pleasant country walking, except for those who are driving. The cable car and rack railway operate all year round, except for two weeks in mid-April. Bayrischzell has a local Tourist Information Office (Kurverwaltung), T: (08023) 648, W: bayrischzell.de, at Kirchplatz 2. The permanent population of Bayrischzell is about 1,600.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

Zur Post (Schulstr. 3 in Bayrischzell) An alpine hotel noted for its cooking. T: (08023) 819-710. X: Tues. in April, May & Oct. €€

Hotel Wendelstein (Ursprungstr. 1 in Bayrischzell) An inn with good-value meals in a beer garden. T: (08023) 808-90. X: Mon., Nov. to mid-Dec. € and €€

Wendelsteinhaus (at the top of the cable car) Meals, snacks or drinks with a view, indoors or out, full service or self-service. T: (08023) 404. €, €€ and €€€

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Begin at the Bayrischzell train station (1). Tourist information is available at the Kur office near the church to the left. You might want to pick up a large-scale map (Wanderkarte) of the area before setting out. The pretty village is small enough to explore in a half-hour or so, and has a good selection of restaurants and cafés.

From Bayrischzell you can walk along a lovely trail (sign-posted as Route K5) just north of the railway line to the cable car station in Osterhofen (2), a distance of just under two miles. It is also possible to get there by train, bus, taxi, car, or bike.

Those making the circular tour should purchase a combination ticket for the cable car and rack railway to Brannenburg. If you would rather return to Munich from Osterhofen you can get a round-trip cable car ticket (Berg und Talfahrt) instead. Board the cable car (Seilbahn) for the eight-minute ride to the top. T: (08034) 30-80, W: wendelsteinbahn.de. Roundtrip €€€. Roundtrip including bus back to Osterhofen €€€€.

From the upper station (3) you can stroll out on a terrace for a fabulous view of the Alps and the Chiemsee far below. Food and drinks with a view are offered at the Wendelsteinhaus. There is an attractive chapel nearby, the highest in Germany, which dates from 1718. Just below this is the entrance to the 600-foot-long cave (Höhle), giving you a chance to explore the insides of the mountain. Trails lead in several directions, the most interesting of which climbs to the solar observatory at the summit (6,035 feet above sea level). Be sure to visit the Geo-Park (photo, below).

The rack railway (Zahnradbahn) to Brannenburg leaves from a station nearby. Those making the circular trip should board it for the delightful half-hour descent to the valley station (4). From here it is possible to get one of the infrequent buses (May-September only) back to Osterhofen, or walk a little less than two miles to the Brannenburg train station (5) and take a train from there to Munich. Some of these require a change at Rosenheim.

Text and map copyright © 2009 by Earl Steinbicker. Photos courtesy of Bayrischzell Tourist Office.

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Bletchley Park, England

A new addition to the forthcoming Eighth Edition of my guidebook Daytrips London is this easy and yet intriguing visit to Bletchley Park, a once top-secret hideaway where the Allies' best codecrackers deciphered Nazi communications by breaking the Enigma ciphers. What fascinated me about this place was my Cold War service in the former U.S. Army Security Agency, which did similar work from1945 through 1976.

Trip 00

A Daytrip From London

Bletchley Park

Enigma: Someting that is not easily explained or understood.

Many of the deepest secrets of World War II are revealed at this rather nondescript estate north of London, where British and American cryptographers decoded the most sensitive Nazi and Japanese communications and played a critical part in the ultimate Allied victories. Military history buffs will love this place, as will anyone fascinated by computers. Not only was this a top-secret intelligence center, but it was also home to the world's first digital computer, which has recently been replicated. Conveniently, the National Museum of Computing is here as well.

 

This is also the best place to learn about the fabled ENIGMA machine and its big brother, the LORENZ — Hitler's secret weapons that could have won him mastery over Europe had not the specialists at Bletchley done their jobs so well. 

Bletchley is part of the modern "New Town" of Milton Keynes, created in 1967 at a point midway between London, Birmingham, Cambridge, and Oxford. UNLIKE other Daytrip destinations, it is not configured as a suggested walking tour since everything is in one place. The text below simply describes what there is to see and experience.

GETTING THERE:

Trains operated by Silverlink depart London's Euston Station frequently for the 40-minute ride to Bletchley, with returns until mid-evening. Schedules at W: nationalrail.co.uk. Bletchley Station is very close to the estate.

By Car, take the A5 north to the A4146, exit marked Bletchley/Fenny Stratford. At the next big roundabout make a left onto a dual highway. When you pass under a railway bridge, follow signs to the Railway Station, making a right onto Sherwood Drive. Bletchley Park is on the left shortly. Those using Satellite-Navigation should enter Sherwood Drive, Bletchley as the destination. Bletchley Park is about 60 miles (97 km) northwest of London.

PRACTICALITIES:

Bletchley Park is open daily except December 24, 25, 26, and New Year's Day. The National Museum of Computing, also on the same grounds and same admission ticket, is however only open on Thursdays and Saturdays at the present time. Visitors should wear sensible clothes and footwear as some outdoor walking is involved. Dogs are not allowed, except for guide dogs. The site is fully handicap-accessible; wheelchairs are provided with advance reservation. There are no restrictions on photography or videoing. Further information is on the web at W: bletchleypark.org, tnmoc.org, and destinationmiltonkeynes.co.uk.

FOOD AND DRINK:

The Galley Bar & Restaurant (in Hut 4 in the park) A full range of meals, snacks, and drinks are served in a restored WWII codebreaking hut. £ and ££

There are also a few pubs nearby on Buckingham Road.

WHAT TO SEE:

BLETCHLEY PARK, Sherwood Drive, Bletchley, Milton Keynes, T: (01908) 640-404, W: bletchleypark.org. Open April-Oct., Mon.-Fri. 9:30-5, Sat.-Sun. 10:30-5; Nov.-March, daily 10:30-4. ££.

Begin at the Block-B Exhibition Centre, housed in an original wartime building. This is where you can get a good introduction to the processes of communications interception, decryption, translation, interpretation, and analysis — the very heart of intelligence gathering that was so vital to winning the war. Surely, the most famous item here is the Nazi ENIGMA machine (photo, right), an electro-mechanical device that uses a series of rotating wheels to scramble plaintext messages into incoherent ciphertext. There were billions and billions of possible combinations, so the system was considered to be absolutely secure to all except another Enigma macine with exactly the same settings. There was a weak point, however. Any letter of the alphabet could represent any other letter, EXCEPT itself. That clue, and work done by Polish mathematicians before the war enabled the Bletchley codebreakers to crack the Enigma code early on, giving the Allies a big advantage that probably shortened the war by two years and saved countless lives. 

Much of the Enigma codecracking was done on the Bombe machine, developed here by mathematicians Alan Turing (considered to be the "father" of digital computing) and Gordon Welchman. Some 200 of these were built, and all destroyed after the war for security reasons. One is presently being rebuilt at Bletchley.

There are displays of similar machines dating from the 1920s to the 1970s, from Britain, U.S.A., Germany, Russia, Sweden, and Switzerland.

Also to be seen in Block B is an exhibition of life in the Home Front during the war, memories of combat by the local regiment, Toys and Memorabilia from the era, a living history of the German 65th Nachrichten Abteilung signals group, and B.P. Station X, an amateur radio station using vintage equipment.

Leaving Block B, the Garage contains vintage cars from the era, some of which have been featured in movies. Likewise, the period Post Office has a collection of stamps, secret undercover mail, and a gift shop.

Hut 1 is devoted to the Diplomatic Wireless Service, whose original equipment was used here during WWII to transmit and receive secret ULTRA and DIPLOMATIC messages. This is open on weekends only.

The Churchill Collection features memorabilia of the great wartime Prime Minister, who described the folks at Bletchley as "The geese that laid golden eggs — but never cackled." Open weekends plus Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Fridays from noon to 4.

In the mood for a walk? The American Garden Trail starts from in front of the mansion and wanders around the grounds — all the while celebrating the ties at Bletchley between the British and Americans who served there.

Block H is home to:

THE NATIONAL MUSEUM OF COMPUTING, T: (07939) 471-765, W: tnmoc.org. Open Thurs. and Sat., 1-5. Admission included with Bletchley Park.

The history of computers from the 1940s to the present day is covered in a sizeable collection of machines big and small. What is regarded as the world's first semi-programmable computer, the Colossus, was developed here and aided greatly in breaking the Nazi LORENZ codes, which were even more complex than the ENIGMA's. This machine is presently being reconstructed here. Visitors can operate many of the computers as a hands-on experience.

Text and map copyright © 2009 Earl Steinbicker.

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There are many books on the subject of codebreaking at Bletchley — you might begin by checking out the ones listed below, which leads to still more choices:

Walking The High Line to the Chelsea Piers

New York City's latest attraction just opened on June 8, 2009, so naturally I had to give it a try. Imagine an elevated park, 30 feet above street level, winding its way through Lower Manhattan and piercing right through buildings. That's The High Line, and it's quite an accomplishment.

How did this come about? Its history actually goes all the way back to 1849, when the Hudson River Railroad ran a street-level line to the junction of Chambers and Hudson streets. Its locomotives tended to frighten horses, so each train was preceeded by a man on horseback blowing a horn. As the city grew and motor traffic replaced horses, this became more than a nuisance and a very real safety concern. By the late 1920s congestion had become so bad that it was decided to elevate the rail line, then owned by the New York Central Railroad. This work was completed in the mid-1930s and continued operation until 1980. After that, it was abandoned and slowly reverted to nature. Slated for demolition, the High Line was saved by activist citizens and in 2006 restoration by the city began.

A friend and I began our walk at the southern terminus, Gansevoort Street at Washington Street, in the heart of the historic Meatpacking District. We got there from Penn Station via the 8th Avenue subway to 14th Street, then walked three blocks to the southwest. The line south of here had previously been demolished. Here, a stairway (photo, above) leads up to the park with its magnificent views across the Hudson River to Hoboken, New Jersey.

The map above shows both the currently opened section, from Gansevoort Street north to 20th Street, and the section north of that to 30th Street which should open next year. Another section, from 30th Street northwest by the Penn Station Rail Yards is under negotiation with its owners, the CSX railroad.

Leaving Gansevoort Street (photo, above), we climbed the stairway (there are also elevators at 14th and 16th streets) some thirty feet to the linear park. From here a paved pedestrian walkway leads north to the end, bordered on the sides by remnants of the abandoned rail line. Between the tracks grow flowers, plants, and even trees (photo, right). Volunteer gardeners were busy at work making it even more attractive.

Oddly, the High Line passes through several buildings along the way. Most of these were once industrial structures and warehouses, with rail sidings leading in at the third-floor level. Some of them have recently been converted into highly desirable loft apartments, and others into art galleries.

At 15th Street the trail cuts through the old Chelsea Market Building, formerly a Nabisco factory. Beyond this is the Northern Spur, where a side track went into a meat warehouse. It is now a horticultural preserve.

The High Line crosses Tenth Avenue around 17th Street, and a section of the structure has been lowered in steps to form a viewing platform looking out across the midtown skyline. A glass wall prevents those carried away by the view from falling off and tumbling down to the streets below.

Plans are afoot to build a grand staircase at 18th Street, leading down to a public plaza. Above this, a cantilevered snackbar will hover above the site. 

Strolling through the Chelsea Grasslands leads to the present northern terminus at 20th Street. Beyond this, the High Line is still under development and should open in 2010. Another friend, reached by cell phone, joined us nearby.

From here it is only a short walk across Eleventh Avenue to the famous Chelsea Piers. Built in the early 1900s to accomodate ocean liners, the piers have a colorful history. This was the destination in 1912 of the Titanic, which of course sank on its maiden voyage, and it was here that its 706 survivors arrived aboard the RMS Carpathia. Three years later the RMS Lusitania (photo, right) sailed from these piers on its fateful journey to England. It was torpedoed by the German Navy off the coast of Ireland with great loss of life, an event that hastened America's entry into World War I.

In the mid-1930s passenger ships were moved north to new, larger piers around 50th Street, and the Chelsea Piers reduced to cargo handling as well as World War II troop ships. Nearly demolished in the early 1990s, they were saved by the abandonment of the Westway Project, and now form a major sports and entertainment complex.

We ended our day of exploring the High Line and Chelsea Piers by visiting a few of the sports facilities spread over 28 acres above the Hudson River. Among the many activities available are gymnastics, soccer, basketball, rock climbing, a golf driving range, health club, and more. But after shooting a few hoops my companions agreed with me that a visit to the Chelsea Brewing Company at the southern end of the complex was in order. There we had sandwiches and a variety of craft beers brewed on the spot before returning to Penn Station for the train ride home. 

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The Wienerwald, Austria

Ah, the Vienna Woods — the perfect daytrip from the Austrian capital. Explore it on your own by following these pages from my recent guidebook, Daytrips Austria. Enjoy!

Trip 5

The

Wienerwald

A Daytrip from Vienna

Vienna is indeed fortunate to have its beloved Wienerwald (Vienna Woods), an area of forested hills that form the northeastern end of the Alps. From here comes the city’s fresh air and clean water, and to here flock its inhabitants on weekend escapes. Besides natural beauty, the region boasts quaint villages, an historic abbey, the site of a romantic tragedy, one of Europe’s oldest spa towns, and plenty of rustic wine taverns where you can end your day sampling the new vintage.

You’ll need a car to do this trip in its entirety, and if you’re trying the wine you’ll also need a designated driver. There is, however, some limited bus service to the major sites, and the spa town of Baden-bei-Wien is easily reached from Vienna by streetcar or train – and the wine town of Gumpoldskirchen by train.

 

GETTING  THERE:

By Car, Head south from Vienna on the B-12 road, starting as Breitenfurter Strasse just southeast of Schönbrunn. Turn left at the sign for Perchtoldsdorf Zentrum and follow “Zentrum” signs into the center of Perchtoldsdorf. After seeing that town return to the B-12 and continue south, following directions in the text. Taken in its entirety, this trip is about 50 miles (80 km) roundtrip from central Vienna.

Public Transportation is really practical only to the towns of Baden and Gumpoldskirchen. For Baden, the easiest way is to take the Badener Bahn (Lokalbahn) streetcar that runs frequently from the Opera in Vienna. This is privately owned and does not accept passes. Otherwise, take a commuter train from Vienna’s Südbahnhof, which also stops at Gumpoldskirchen.

PRACTICALITIES:

This trip may be taken on nearly any day in fine weather, bearing in mind that the Beethoven House and some other attractions in Baden are closed on Mondays. The Tourist Information Office in Baden is located at Brusattiplatz 3 at Leopoldsbad, T: (02252) 2260-0600, W: baden.com/english.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Café Sauerhof (Wilburgstr. 11 in Baden, 5 blocks southwest of the Beethoven House, in the Hotel Sauerhof) Quality café food, featuring a Sunday brunch from Sept.-June. T: (02252) 412-51-0, W: sauerhof.at. €€€

Rudolfshof (Am Gamingerberg, above the Kurpark in Baden) Regional cuisine or just snacks in an old hunting lodge. T: (02252) 209-203. X: Tues., also Wed. in off-season. €€ 

Café Damals (Rathausgasse 3 in Baden, by the Beethoven House) Local dishes in an attractive courtyard. T: (02252) 426-86. X: Sun. €

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Just beyond Vienna, a side road leads southeast from the B-12 into the historic old town of Perchtoldsdorf (1), otherwise known as Petersdorf. Around its central market place (Markt) stands an unusual fortified tower, or keep, of 1465, noted for its steep roof and corner turrets. Close to this is the Pfarrkirche (parish church) of 1340, where a massacre of its  congregation by invading Turks took place in 1683. Memories of this, and other horrors of that time, are kept alive in the small Türkenmuseum (Turkish Museum) located in the nearby 15th-century Rathaus (town hall). Tragedy of another kind is remembered by the Pestsäule (plague column), created in 1713 by the famous architect J.B. Fischer von Erlach.

Return to the B-12 road and continue south, following the map past Sulz-im-Wienerwald and Sittendorf until you come to the entrance, on the left, of Naturpark Sparbach (2). Long a summer retreat for Vienna’s citizens, this nature reserve features woodland paths, game enclosures, a lake, and a children’s zoo. T: (02237) 7611, W: naturparke.at. Open April-Oct., daily 9-6; Nov. and Jan.-March weekends only, 10 to 3, 4, 5, or 6 depending on month. €.

Crossing the A-21 Autobahn, turn right on the B-11 road and head south to:

STIFT HEILIGENKREUZ (Heiligenkreuz Abbey) (3), T: (02258) 8703, W: stift-heiligenkreuz.at. Tours at 10, 11, 2, 3, 4 daily; no 10 a.m. tour on Sun. Wine cellar. Restaurant. €€.

Photo of Abbey (above) © Stift-Heiligenkreuz

Begun in 1133, Austria’s oldest Cistercian abbey takes its name from a relic of the True Cross given to it in the 12th century. The Cistercian order was founded in France in the late 11th century as a reformation of the older orders; originally it featured severe austerity, but this has mellowed over the years. Tours visit the Trinity Column in the courtyard, followed by the 12th-century *Abbey Church itself. The nave of this is starkly Romanesque, but opens into a Gothic choir with lovely stained-glass windows. The Cloister marks the transition from the Romanesque into the Gothic, with an interesting nine-sided fountain room and Renaissance basin. The Babenburgs, who ruled Austria from 976 until 1246, have their tombs in the Chapter House along with their likenesses. Other rooms to see include St. Anne’s Chapel, the Chapel of the Dead, the Fraterie, and the Sacristy.

Continue west on the B-11, soon turning left for Mayerling. (4). This hamlet is better known for a sensational tragedy of forbidden love and suicide that rocked the nation in 1889 than for anything you can actually see; still it attracts countless visitors to this day. Long hushed up by the Imperial Family and cloaked in mystery, the story goes more or less like this: Archduke Rudolf, the 30-year-old heir to the throne of Austria-Hungary, was disliked by the aristocracy for his liberal politics, disbelief in religion, womanizing, drinking, and other unsavory practices. Although married at the time to Stephanie of Belgium, he began an affair with the 17-year-old Baroness Maria Vetsera. His father, the stern Emperor Franz-Joseph, tried to put an end to this by making threats, which only drove Rudolph to despair. The Archduke then fled with Maria to his hunting lodge at Mayerling, where two days later they were both found dead of gunshots. What was probably a double suicide (or a murder followed by suicide?) was quickly covered up by the family; only in recent decades have some of the facts become known. The hunting lodge was demolished on orders of the emperor, and replaced with a Carmelite Convent whose chapel covers the site of the bedroom where the tragedy took place. This and adjoining rooms containing mementoes may be visited. T: (02258) 8703-2275. Open daily 9-noon and 2-6. €.

Head east on the B-210 road to the classic old spa town of Baden-bei-Wien (5)-(9), usually just called Baden. This is a wonderful place to just stroll around in, taking in the ambiance, as well as visiting a few of the sights. Tourist Office, Brusattiplatz 3, T: (02252) 2260-0600, W: baden.com/english.

What better place to begin exploring Baden than at its Kurpark (5)? Enjoy a delightful walk through this manicured park, possibly stopping at the bandstand, where free spa concerts are given from May through September, every day except Mondays, in the late afternoon. After checking your watch against the flower clock, you might want to try your luck at the Casino, whose gaming tables open at 3. For more casual gaming, the slots open at 1. Either way, you must be at least 19 and must show ID.

Meander down Theresiengasse to Hauptplatz, an elegant square embellished with the inevitable Dreifaltigkeitssäule (Trinity Column), a feature common to many an Austrian town. Opposite this is the impressive Rathaus (town hall) of 1815, and right around the corner is the:

BEETHOVENHAUS (6), Rathausgasse 10, T: (02252) 8680-0230. Open Tues.-Fri. 4-6, weekends and holidays 10-12 and 4-6. €.

Ludwig van Beethoven (painting, left), who lived at what seem to be countless addresses in and around Vienna, called these small digs home on several occasions, and it was here that he completed much of his Missa Solemnis as well as the towering Ninth Symphony between 1821 and 1823. Although the furnishings are sparse (photo, below), this is a must-see for all admirers of his music.

Time permitting, there are several other attractions in Baden in addition to the hot-spring spa facilities that made the town famous since the time of the ancient Romans. These include the Emperor Franz-Joseph Museum (7), devoted mostly to local folk art and artifacts. T: (02252) 411-00. Open April-Oct., Tues.-Sun. and holidays 2-6. 11-5. €. Another site of local interest is the Rollett Museum (8), which covers Baden’s long history along with a miscellaneous collection of such oddities as human skulls used in the “science” of phrenology. T: (02252) 482-55. Open Wed.-Mon. 3-6. €. Gardeners will enjoy a visit to the Rosarium (9) in Doblhoff Park, where some 25,000 roses bloom over an area of 3.5 acres. This is especially attractive in June; ask at the tourist office for specific details.

Depart Baden and head north on the B-212 road to Gumpoldskirchen (10), a charming village filled with inviting Heurigen — those simple wine taverns where local families dispense their own Heuriger (new wine) at rustic tables, usually in a vine-covered courtyard and often with simple musical accompaniment. This is great and inexpensive fun-filled way to end your day – just wander around to find a place that appeals to you. 

Copyright © 2008 by Earl Steinbicker

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Salisbury & Stonehenge, England

Here's a trip into the mysterious past that also explores one of England's prettiest towns, taken from the pages of my guidebook Daytrips London and updated to 2009 in preparation for a new Eighth Edition.

I took the Black & White photo (in text below) of Stonehenge in the mid-1970s, when visitors could still walk right up to the stones and commune with them. Today this requires advance reservations via their website and can only be done during hours when the site is closed to the public. 

Trip 29

A Daytrip from London

*Salisbury

and 

Stonehenge

The cathedral city of Salisbury is a relative newcomer as English towns go; having been first settled in 1220 when the local bishop moved his cathedral down from the hilltop stronghold known as Sarum. Dating from prehistoric times, this earlier site was of great importance to the Romans, who called it Sorviodunum. Later becoming the Saxon settlement of Searoburh, it acquired a Norman castle and a cathedral during the 11th century. Frequent clashes between the clergy and the military, as well as harsh conditions imposed by a dry, windswept location, led to the establishment of a new town in the more hospitable meadows along the River Avon, just two miles to the south. After this, Old Sarum gradually died out. Its abandoned cathedral was demolished in 1331 and the stones reused for building a wall around the new town's cathedral close. By the 16th century the site was completely deserted although, as the rottenest of the Rotten Boroughs, it continued to send two members to Parliament until 1832.

 

The new town of Salisbury has always been a peaceful place that escaped the vicissitudes of history. Since its cathedral was one of the few to be based on a chapter of secular canons rather than a monastery, it quickly became a worldly center with all of the features of a thriving provincial capital. Salisbury today is an extraordinarily beautiful town made all the more fascinating by its proximity to the mysterious Stonehenge, one of England's most popular tourist attractions.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains operated by South West Trains depart London's Waterloo Station frequently for the 1½-hour ride to Salisbury, with return service operating until mid-evening. Schedules are reduced on Sundays and holidays. Schedules at W: southwesttrains.co.uk. There is bus service for Stonehenge from Salisbury.

By Car, Salisbury is 91 miles southwest of London via the M3, A303, and A30 highways. To get to Stonehenge, take the A345 north to Amesbury, then the A303 and A344 west to the site. Stonehenge is about 10 miles from Salisbury. Old Sarum is along the way, about two miles north of Salisbury on the A345.

PRACTICALITIES:

Salisbury may be visited on any day, although some sights are closed on Sundays. The local Tourist Information Centre, T: (01722) 334-956, W: visitsalisbury.com, is on Fish Row behind the Guildhall on Market Place. During summer there is a branch office in the train station. A colorful outdoor market is held there on Tuesdays and Saturdays until mid-afternoon. Salisbury is in the county of Wiltshire, and has a population of about 39,000.

The Wilts & Dorset Bus Company operates a special bus to Stonehenge, half-hourly in summer and less frequently in the other seasons. These depart from the train station and then from the bus station on Endless St., the cost being ₤₤₤ including entrance to the site. T: (01983) 827005, W: thestonehengetour.info.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

The town is famous for its ancient pubs. Some of the best of these, and restaurants too, are:

[list is being updated for the new eighth edition]

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Depending on your arrival time, it is probably best to head out for Stonehenge immediately, getting there before the crowds get too thick. Special buses operated by Wilts & Dorset leave from the train station (1) frequently in season, less frequently in the off-season, and also from the bus station near the Market Place (11). For details see “Practicalities,” above. Those driving their own cars should just follow the directions in “Getting There,” above.

 *STONEHENGE (2), near Amesbury, T: (0870) 333-1181, W: english-heritage.org.uk. Open daily 9:30-6, 9-7 from June-Aug. Closed Dec. 24, 25. ££. Snack bar. Gift shop. Audio tour.

Stonehenge is a massive circular group of standing stones, erected in several stages between the Late Neolithic and Middle Bronze ages. It seems to have been a temple of sorts, but anything beyond that is speculation. What is truly marvelous about the place is that you can believe anything you want about it, no matter how outrageous, and no one can prove you wrong. Go right ahead and indulge your imagination. Perhaps Merlin really did build it by magic, or maybe it actually was an astronomical observatory, or even a temple of the Druids. Who knows? One thing is certain, however. What you get out of it is what you put in. To approach this site without preparation is to see a pile of rocks and little else. Pamphlets explaining some of the theories are sold near the entrance, although advance homework will make you visit more rewarding. Currently, there are plans afoot to move the A344 highway and the visitor center some distance from the site, restoring some of Stonehenge’s mysterious natural setting by perhaps 2012. Much of this can be explored now on the many walking trails.

On the way back you should try to make a stop at the ruins of Old Sarum, the original Salisbury, described in the introductory paragraph above. From there return to the train station and start exploring “new” Salisbury.

Leaving the train station (1), walk down to the River Nadder and cross it on a footbridge. A footpath from here leads through delightful countryside to the ancient Harnham Mill (3) (photo, left), parts of which may date from the 13th century. Now an inn, its bucolic setting is a scene right out of a Constable landscape. All along the way there are wonderful views of the cathedral.

Return to Queen Elizabeth Gardens (4) and follow the map across the 15th-century Crane Bridge. Turn right at High Street and stroll through North Gate (5), a 14th-century structure that once protected the bishops from rebellious citizens. The Mompesson House (6) on Choristers' Green, built in 1701, has an exquisite Queen Anne interior with notable plasterwork and an elegant carved oak staircase. There is also a delightful walled garden. Today, Mompesson House is owned by the National Trust. T: (01722) 335-659, W: nationaltrust.org.uk. Open mid-March through Oct., Sat.-Wed., 11-5. Last admission at 4:30. ££, garden only ₤. 

From here it’s only steps to:

*SALISBURY CATHEDRAL (7), The Close, T: (01722) 555-120, W: salisburycathedral.org.uk. Open daily 7:15-6:15, remaining open until 8:15 from June-Aug. Donation: ££. Tours. Gift shop. Cafeteria.

Salisbury Cathedral (photo, right) was built over a very short time span, from 1220 to 1258, which accounts for its remarkable architectural unity. It is the purest example of the Early English style to be found anywhere in the kingdom. The graceful tower was added a century later and, at 404 feet, is the loftiest spire built during the medieval period.

At first glance, its interior seems somewhat disappointing for so majestic a structure. This is due to an overzealous spring housecleaning in the 18th century that stripped it of much of the medieval clutter that make other churches so fascinating. Yet, there are many interesting things to see, starting with the 14th-century clock mechanism at the west end of the north aisle. Still in operating condition, it is thought to be the oldest in England and perhaps in the world. The West Window contains some good 13th-century stained glass, as does the Lady Chapel at the east end.

Stroll out into the Cloisters, the largest in England, and visit the adjoining *Chapter House, whose treasures include one of the four existing original copies of the Magna Carta, as well as 13th-century sculptures illustrating scenes from the Old Testament. Roof and tower tours, offering great views, are held several times a day.

A stroll around Cathedral Close makes a pleasant break before continuing on. The Bishop's Palace, now occupied by the Cathedral School, and the Old Deanery are particularly fine 13th-century buildings within the precincts. Be sure to visit the Salisbury and South Wiltshire Museum (8) in the King's House along West Walk. Its displays include models and relics from Stonehenge and Old Sarum, along with items of local history, porcelains, 17th-century rooms, an old doctor’s office, clothing, Turner watercolors, and the like. T: (01722) 332-151, W: salisburymuseum.org.uk. Open Mon.-Sat. 10-5, and on Sun. in July and Aug., 2-5. ££. Restaurant.

You may also be interested in seeing The Wardrobe (9), a military museum of the Royal Gloucestershire, Berkshire and Wiltshire Regiment. Recalling life in a county regiment, it is located in another nearby historic house and features beautiful waterside gardens. T: (01722) 419-419, W: thewardrobe.org.uk. Open April-Oct., daily 10-4; Feb.-March and Nov. Tues.-Sun. 10-5. ££. Tea room with light lunches.

Follow North Walk to the Malmesbury House (10), an historic mansion that grew out of a 13th-century canonry. Now restored to its 18th-century splendor, it played a role in the Civil War and was home to a direct ancestor of the present queen. Charles II stayed here, as did the composer Handel, whose ghost (or perhaps someone else’s) still haunts the premises. Visits, with or without apparitions, may be made by prior arrangement. T: (01722) 327-027.

 

Handel gave his first public concert in England in a room above the adjacent St. Ann's Gate. Pass under this and turn left on St. John's Street, following the map to the Market Place (11). Markets have been held here twice a week since 1361, a custom that continues today.

Cut through to Silver Street. The beautiful hexagonal Poultry Cross (12) was first mentioned in 1335 as the spot where poultry was sold. Around the corner, approached through alleyways, is St. Thomas's Church (13), one of the most interesting buildings in Salisbury. Founded in honor of Thomas à Becket about 1220, it was rebuilt in the 15th century and has a marvelous medieval fresco known as the Doom Painting, depicting the Last Judgement, above its chancel arch. This was whitewashed over during the Reformation and not rediscovered until the 19th century. The colorful area around the church is the perfect spot to wind up your tour.

If you decided not to go to Stonehenge, you might want instead to visit:

*WILTON HOUSE (14), Wilton, Salisbury, T: (01722) 746-720, W: wiltonhouse.com. Located 2½ miles west of Salisbury on the A30. Frequent bus service from central Salisbury on routes 60 or 61 (hourly on Sun.), or drive or take a taxi there. Open May-Aug., Sun.-Thurs., noon-5, last admission at 4. £££. Cafeteria.

One of England's most attractive stately homes, Wilton (old engraving, left) is filled with outstanding art and has acres and acres of lovely gardens. Henry VIII gave the first Wilton House to William Herbert in 1541, who soon thereafter became the Earl of Pembroke. Destroyed by fire, it was rebuilt by the great architect Inigo Jones for the fifth earl. The present resident is the 18th Earl of Pembroke. Visits begin with a video, followed by a tour of the kitchen. Shakespeare dedicated the first folio of his plays to the third earl, so there’s a statue of him in the hall. Wilton’s most noted sight is the extravagant *Double Cube Room with its vast Van Dyke portrait of the Pembroke family. There is an American connection here as well, as this is where General Eisenhower planned much of the Normandy invasion of 1944. On the lighter side, check out the delightful display of some 200 costumed teddy bears in their own miniature house and stables. Don’t miss the amazing *Palladian Bridge, spanning the River Nadder in the landscaped parkland. If some of this looks familiar, it should because many movies and TV specials have been filmed here — and still are.

Copyright © 2003 by Earl Steinbicker, updated to 2009.

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