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Lüneburg, Germany

Heading for Northern Germany? Here's a easy daytrip from Hamburg that really brings the Middle Ages to life, taken from my guidebooks Daytrips Germany (7th Edition) and Daytrips Berlin and Northern Germany. Enjoy!

Trip 18

Lüneburg

A Daytrip from Hamburg

It was salt that made Lüneburg rich. This well-preserved medieval town dates from the discovery of its saline springs at least a thousand years ago. In those days salt was needed for food preservation, especially in Scandinavia — which has no deposits of its own and borders on a distinctly un-briny sea, the Baltic. From Lüneburg, the Old Salt Road led to Lübeck, where the white gold was put on ships headed for ports as distant as Russia.

Lüneburg joined the Hanseatic League in the 14th century and became immensely wealthy. Fine homes, churches, and public buildings were constructed, mostly of brick. Then, in the 16th century, trade began to decline. After that the town remained a poor, backwater place until fairly recent times, when new industry and the development of its spa brought a measure of prosperity. Today, the town remains much as it was in the 15th and 16th centuries, a living museum of life in the late Middle Ages. This trip can be combined in the same day with one to Celle.

GETTING THERE:

Trains depart Hamburg's main station frequently for the half-hour trip to Lüneburg. These same trains can also be boarded a few minutes earlier at Hamburg's Altona and Dammtor stations. Return service operates until late evening.

By Car, Lüneburg is 58 km (36 miles) southeast of Hamburg via the A-7 Autobahn and the B-4 road.

PRACTICALITIES:

Lüneburg may be visited at any time, but avoid coming on a Monday if you want to see the museums. The local Tourist Information Office (Lüneburg Marketing GmbH), T: (04131) 207-6620, W: lueneburg.de, is in the Rathaus on the Market Square. Lüneburg has a population of about 70,000.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

Some choice restaurants are:

Hotel Bergström (by the Old Mill at the Old port) International cuisine in a most romantic setting. T: (04131) 30-80. €€ and €€€

Ratskeller (in the Rathaus on the Market Square) Local specialties highlight a well-rounded menu, served in an Old-World atmosphere. T: (04131) 317-57. X: Wed. €€

Bremer Hof (Lüner Str. 13, a block east of St. Nikolaikirche) Comfortable dining in an old hotel. T: (04131) 22-40. €€

Kronen Brauhaus (Heiligengeiststr. 39, 3 blocks west of St. Johanniskirche) A popular brewery restaurant with a beer garden. T: (04131) 71-32-00. € and €€

Brau-und-Tafelhaus Mälzer (Heiligengeiststr. 43, 3 blocks west of St. Johanniskirche) Meats, pastas, and beer, beer, beer — indoors or outdoors. T: (04131) 47777-240. € and €€

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leave the train station (1) and follow the map to the colorful *Old Port (2) in the Wasserviertel quarter on the Ilmenau River. On your left, looking like a fantastic bird, is the Alter Kran (Old Crane), a strange wooden contraption built in 1797. Similar cranes have stood here since at least the 14th century. There are some ancient warehouses in the same area and, across the harbor, a group of 16th-century merchants' houses. Stroll along Am Fischmarkt and cross the tiny footbridge over the millstream. One of the old watermills here is now part of a major hotel.

Walk straight ahead and turn right on Rotehahnstrasse. Midway down the block, at number 14, is the Roter Hahn (3), a medieval old-folks' home. Step into its very lovely courtyard, then continue on to the St.-Nikolaikirche (St. Nicholas' Church) (4), consecrated in 1409 and noted for its star-vaulted ceiling.

A left on Bardowicker Strasse leads to the Marktplatz (Market Place) (5), with its Luna Fountain of 1530. Outdoor farmers' markets are held here on Wednesdays and Saturdays. The splendid *Rathaus (Town Hall), facing the square, has an ornately decorated façade. Actually a complex of buildings dating from the 13th through the 18th centuries, it is considered to be among the finest in Germany. Guided tours through its magnificent interior are held daily. For specific times, ask at the tourist office located on the side facing the square.

Now follow the map to the Michaeliskirche (St. Michael's Church)(6) on Johann-Sebastian-Bach-Platz, where the great composer is supposed to have gotten his start as a boy soprano at the age of 15. It was built between 1376 and 1418 as a Benedictine convent.

From here you can make a pleasant side trip to the Kalkberg (7), a small mound that offers a good view of the town. Originally some 70 meters high, it has shrunk to 57 meters as a result of gypsum mining. A 13th-century fortress stood here until 1371.

Continue down Auf der Altstadt and Schlägertwiete. This ancient part of town has slowly subsided as the salt deposits below were worked until recent decades. Some of the houses lean at odd angles, and cracks develop in their walls. An interesting little side trip can be made to the former salt works, now home to the:

DEUTSCHES SALZMUSEUM (8), T: (04131) 450-65, W: salzmuseum.de. Open May-Sept., Mon.-Fri. 9-5, weekends 10-5; rest of year daily 10-5. €.

Here you can learn everything you ever wanted to know about this precious mineral, and see how it was refined throughout the ages.

Heiligengeiststrasse leads to the Brauereimuseum (9), where beer has been brewed from 1485 until recently. It's free, so pop in for a look. T: (04131) 448-04. Open Tues.-Sun. 1-4:30. Another nearby attraction, on Ritterstrasse, is the Ostpreussisches Landesmuseum (10), which explores the history and culture of East Prussia. T: (04131) 759-950, W: ostpreussisches-landesmuseum.de. Open Tues.-Sun. 10-5. €.

You are now at Am Sande, a large open area lined with some beautiful old buildings. The most outstanding of these is the St. Johannis-Kirche (St. John's Church) (11), a 14th-century brick structure with a slightly skewed tower. Go inside for a look at the fine altarpiece and choir stalls, and especially at the partly 16th-century "Bach" organ.

At this point you might want to amble around the picturesque streets between here and the market place, or follow the map to the Museum für das Fürstentum Lüneburg (Museum of the Principality of Lüneburg) (12), whose superb displays are concerned with local history and culture. T: (04131) 438-91, W: museum-lueneburg.de. Open Tues.-Fri. 10-4; and on weekends from 11-5. €. The train station is only a few blocks away.

Text and map copyright © 2009 by Earl Steinbicker. Photos courtesy of Lüneburg Tourist Office.

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Bamberg, Germany

Beer lovers, rejoice! Bamberg's citizens down more of the brew than anyone else. And there's a lot more to enjoy in the beautifully-preserved corner of Bavaria. I've been featuring it in my travel guidebook Daytrips Germany ever since the first edition way back in 1984, and the place remains as enjoyable as ever. 

Trip 16

Bamberg

A Daytrip from Munich

Of all the medieval cities in Germany, Bamberg stands out as perhaps the one least touched by the ravages of war. Well over a thousand years of history enrich this ancient ecclesiastical and commercial center in Upper Franconia. It is a place filled with picturesque corners, charming waterfront houses and narrow, winding streets, as well as magnificent churches whose spires cap the seven hills on which it is built.

Although this area has been settled since the late Stone Age, the earliest documented reference to Castrum Babenberg, as it was then called, dates from AD 902. Bamberg was well established as a center of learning before the 12th century. Despite occupation by the Swedes during the Thirty Years War, the town was spared the destruction of the Reformation and remained true to the Catholic faith. It was not until 1802 that it was secularized and made a part of Bavaria. Industrialization began in the late 19th century, but this took place at the eastern end of town, well away from its ancient core. Bamberg survived World War II virtually unscathed, and today offers visitors a chance to experience a city whose fabric has remained intact for centuries.

This trip can also be made from other bases such as Nürnberg or Würzburg.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains leave Munich's main station about hourly for the 2½-hour trip to Bamberg, which may require a change at Nürnberg. Return connections run until mid-evening.

By Car from Munich, take the A-9 Autobahn to Nürnberg, then the A-73 to Bamberg. Bamberg is 232 km (143) miles north of Munich.

PRACTICALITIES:

Bamberg is compact and can be comfortably explored in any season. Some of its sights are closed on Mondays, Tuesdays, and holidays. The local Tourist Information Office (Tourismus & Kongress Service), T: (0951) 2976-200, W: bamberg.info, is at Geyerswörthstrasse 3, 3 blocks southeast of the Altes Rathaus. You might consider purchasing their Bamberg Card, which covers local buses, a guided tour, and entry to selected museums. Bamberg has a population of about 70,000.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

The most famous specialty of Bamberg is its unique Rauchbier (smoked beer), an acquired taste definitely worth trying. Its regular beers are superb, and its citizens probably quaff more of the suds than anyone else on Earth. Some recommended restaurants are:

Weinhaus Messerschmitt (Langestr. 41, 3 blocks northeast of the E.T.A. Hoffmann House) A romantic medieval inn run by the same family since 1832. Excellent dining room. For reservations T: (0951) 297-800. €€€

Brauereigaststätte Schlenkerla (Dominikerstr. 6, 2 blocks west of the Altes Rathaus) The place for Rauchbier, a rustic old beer hall with a boisterous crowd and hearty food. The name, Schlenkerla, incidentally, implies “tipsy.” T: (0951) 560-60. X: Tues. €

Klosterbräu (Obere Mühlbrücke, by the bridge near Mühlwörth) Simple local dishes and fresh local beer. T: (0951) 522-65. €

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

 Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leave the train station (1) and follow the map to the Kettenbrücke, a bridge spanning the Regnitz. You will probably see barge traffic on the river, as Bamberg is a major inland port. Cross the bridge and continue on Hauptwachstrasse.

Walk straight ahead past Maximiliansplatz, with its "new" town hall and market place, and into the delightful Grüner Markt (2). This large open square, dominated by the Baroque St. Martin's Church and the 17th-century Neptune Fountain, is reserved for pedestrians.

Obstmarkt leads to the Untere Brücke, a bridge over the left arm of the Regnitz. In the center of this stands the *Altes Rathaus (photo, top of page) (3), easily the most remarkable old town hall in Germany. Its extraordinary position in the middle of the river was determined by the local politics of the Middle Ages. At that time it had to administer both the ecclesiastical and civic halves of the city without showing preference for either, hence the truly mid-stream stance. Originally built in the 15th century, it was heavily reconstructed in the rococo style during the 18th. Among other things, the Old Town Hall now houses the noted Ludwig Collection of Baroque Porcelain and Faience. T: (0951) 871-871. Open Tues.-Sun. 9:30-4:30. €. Looking downstream, you will have a good view of the colorful fishermen's houses along the Regnitz, an area known as Klein-Venedig (Little Venice).

After crossing the river, make the first left and then another left onto the Obere Brücke, which goes through the Old Town Hall, allowing a more detailed examination. Return to the left bank and stroll to a small footbridge from which you will have the best possible view of the Altes Rathaus and the 17th-century half-timbered building curiously attached to it.

On the other side make a right at Geyerswörth Castle, built in 1585 as the town residence of the prince-bishop. Continue along to the next bridge and turn right. Midway across this you can stroll out on Untere Mühlbrücke for a wonderful view.

Now follow the map through the Old Town to Domplatz, one of the most attractive public squares in Germany. The *Cathedral (Dom) (photo, above) (4), first consecrated in 1012 by Emperor Heinrich II, was rebuilt in its present form during the 13th century after two fires destroyed the original structure. It contains the only tomb of a pope in Germany, that of Clement II, who died in 1047 and is buried in the west chancel. The cathedral is exceptionally rich in works of art, the most renowned of which is the *Bamberger Rider (photo, left), a 13th-century equestrian statue of a king by an unknown sculptor. Just to the right of this is the elaborate *Sarcophagus of Emperor Heinrich II and his wife Kunigunda, carved in 1513 by Tilman Riemenschneider. Another masterpiece, on the west wall of the south transept, is the Marien Altar by Veit Stoss. The Diocesan Museum, adjacent to the cathedral, contains many more treasures, including the imperial cloak of Heinrich II and the robes of Pope Clement II.

Walk across the square to the:

NEUE RESIDENZ (New Residence) (5), T: (0951) 519-390. Open April-Sept., daily 9-6; Oct.-March 10-4, closed on some holidays. €.

This massive Baroque structure was erected between 1697 and 1703 for the very wealthy Prince-Bishop Franz von Schönborn. Step inside for a look at the magnificent Kaisersaal (Emperor's Room) and the luxurious apartments of the prince-bishops. There is also a splendid art gallery with pictures ranging from the Middle Ages to the 18th century. While there, be sure to get out into the Rose Garden for a superb view of the town.

Across from this is the Reiche Tor, a richly ornamented gate leading into the Alte Hofhaltung (Old Imperial Court) (photo, above) (6), one of the most enchanting sights in Bamberg. The grandiose, quiet inner courtyard is surrounded by half-timbered buildings and the remains of the old Diet Hall, which was used as the seat of local government for over 500 years after 1085. One wing now houses the Historisches Museum, with its exhibitions on the history and culture of Bamberg and Upper Franconia. T: (0951) 871-142, Open May-Oct., Tues.-Sun. 9-5. €.

A gate at the rear of the courtyard opens into Domstrasse. From here follow the map to St. Michael's Church (7), part of a former Benedictine abbey originally founded in the 17th century. Inside, there are several interesting things to see, particularly the Tomb of St. Otto behind the high altar. Crawling through the hole in this is, according to local tradition, a sure cure for lumbago. The ceiling is also unusual, featuring paintings of over 600 different medicinal herbs. As you leave the church, turn right and amble out to the terrace, which offers a wonderful view of the surrounding countryside.

The same monastic complex also houses the:

FRÄNKISCHES BRAUEREIMUSEUM (Franconian Brewery Museum) (7), T: (0951) 530-16. Open April-Oct., Wed.-Sun. 1-5, closed Good Friday. €.

Here is where the local art of making great beer is explored. This is particularly appropriate in a town whose average citizen consumes some 330 liters of beer a year, the world's record.

The route back to the Old Town takes you by the 14th-century Obere Pfarre (Upper Parish Church) (8), considered by many to be Bamberg's finest Gothic structure. Turn right on Judenstrasse and take a look at the Böttinger House (9), one of the finest examples of a private mansion in the Baroque style. Built in 1713, it was the winter residence of the court privy councilor Böttinger, who thought of himself as the supreme ruler of Bamberg — although Prince-Bishop von Schönborn entertained similar notions. Böttinger also had another mansion, this one for summer use, just a stone's throw away on the Regnitz.

Walk along the narrow Concordiastrasse for a block, then turn left and cross the tiny footbridge. In this area there are several old mills that have been converted into homes. An alleyway on the other side leads to the Mühlwörth, with an interesting view of Böttinger's other palace, the Concordia House (10) on the water's edge. Continue on past the locks of the former Ludwig Canal (11) for a short distance, then return and cross the Nonnenbrücke. Along the water, to the left, you can see two interesting old cranes.

The very narrow E.T.A. Hoffmann House (12) on Schillerplatz was the home of that great romantic writer from 1808 to 1813. It was his stories that formed the basis for Offenbach's opera The Tales of Hoffmann. The house may be visited from May-Oct., Tues.-Fri. 4-6 p.m., and on weekends from 10-to noon. €. Now follow the map back to the train station.

Text, map, and B&W photo copyright © 2009 by Earl Steinbicker

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Hastings, England

Here's another chapter from my travel guidebook Daytrips London, which I'm currently revising for a 2010 Eighth Edition. Enjoy: 

Trip 19

Hastings

An intriguing combination of past and present, Hastings has managed to maintain its heritage while serving as a popular resort. In a sense it is really two towns split neatly down the middle.

With origins going back to the 7th century, Hastings became one of the Cinque Ports during the time of Edward the Confessor. It had a harbor then, which silted up during the 12th century, never to be successfully rebuilt. William the Conqueror invaded the town in 1066 after landing his Norman troops at nearby Pevensey Bay. The famous Battle of Hastings was fought a few days later on a hill six miles to the northwest, the site of today's village of Battle. During the Hundred Years War of the 14th century the town was repeatedly pillaged by the French. It survived as a fishing village, a role it still plays, and in the 19th century became the seaside resort it is today. Although some of its past glory has sadly faded, enough of interest remains to make this indeed a worthwhile daytrip.

This trip can easily be combined with one to either Rye, Battle, or Tunbridge Wells as there are excellent rail and road connections.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains to Hastings, operated by Southeastern, leave from London's Charing Cross Station at frequent intervals. The journey takes about 90 minutes, and return service operates until late evening. Some require a change enroute.

By Car, Hastings is 63 miles (100 km) southeast of London via the A21 highway.

PRACTICALITIES:

Being a seaside resort, Hastings is best visited during the summer, although the main attractions are open all year round. Good weather is essential to enjoy this trip fully.

The local tourist office, T: (01424) 781-111, W: www.visit1066country.com/hastings/, is by the Town Hall on Queens Square. Hastings is in the county of East Sussex and has a population of about 86,000.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

There are numerous tourist eateries all along the walking route, including:

This list is being revised for a new edition.

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leaving the train station (1), follow Havelock Road and Castle Street to Marine Parade. Continue up George Street to the West Hill Lift (photo, right), which will spare you a climb to the castle. Operates Apr.-Oct. daily 10:30-5:30; Nov.-March daily 11-4. ₤. From the top of the hill, bear left to the cliff overlooking the beach for a marvelous view and the:

1066 STORY in HASTINGS CASTLE (2), West Hill, T: (01424) 781-111, W: sugglersadventure.co.uk. Open Easter-Oct., daily 11-5; Oct.. to Easter 11-4. ₤₤, combination ticket with Smugglers Adventure (below) available.

Hastings Castle was built by William the Conqueror shortly after the Battle of Hastings. Now little more than a romantic ruin, it is still very much worth exploring. Be sure to visit the 1066 Story, where those dramatic events of long ago are brought to life with modern audiovisual technology — all inside a re-created medieval siege tent.

Stroll over to the:

SMUGGLERS ADVENTURE in ST. CLEMENT’S CAVES (3), West Hill, T: (01424) 422-964, W: sugglersadventure.co.uk. Open daily 10-5:30. Closed Dec. 25-26. £££.

St. Clement's Caves are an extensive and somewhat bizarre network of rambling subterranean passages, partly natural and partly man-made. They were used in centuries past by smugglers, a drama recalled today in the Smugglers’ Adventure exhibition deep within the labyrinth. The adventure walk encounters over 50 life-size figures in re-created settings, complete with sound effects and a few surprises. There is also a museum and a video theater. 

The most interesting part of Hastings is its Old Town, a picturesque fishermen's quarter of narrow streets and ancient buildings. Descend into it via Exmouth Place and turn left on Hill Street. St. Clement's Church (4) dates from the 14th century. Two cannon balls are lodged in the south wall of its tower, the one on the right being the result of a French bombardment in the late 17th century. The other one was put there just to balance things off. Inside, there are some fine stained-glass windows and two superb old brasses.

Walk down to High Street and turn left to the Old Town Hall, now the Old Town Hall Museum (5). Life-size mannequins provide a touch of the past while other displays are concerned with the Battle of Hastings, the story of the Cinque Ports, and smuggling — once a major vocation in these parts. T: (0845) 274-1053, W: hmag.org.uk. Open April-Sept., Mon.-Sat. 10-5, Sun. 11-5; Oct.-March, Mon.-Fri. 10-4, Sat.-Sun. 11-4. Donation.

Continuing up High Street with its Tudor homes on the left, you will come to the Stables Theatre, which at one time housed horses for the 18th-century Old Hastings House at the top of the street.

Return by way of All Saints' Street. Destroyed by the French in 1377, All Saints' Church was rebuilt in the 15th century. Inside, there is a well-preserved mural from that time depicting the Last Judgement. Farther along, on the left, is the Piece of Cheese, a peculiar wedge-shaped house that resembles its name.

Probably the best-known sight in Hastings is of its Net Shops (photo, above)(6), an extraordinary group of tall black wooden sheds used by fishermen to store their nets. The unusual shape, unchanged since Elizabethan times, was dictated by high rents on the available ground between the sea and cliff. Next to this is the fish market, a place where local fish-ermen sell the day's catch right off the boat.

The Fishermen's Museum (7) on Rock-a-Nore Road houses the Enterprise, the last fishing vessel to be built in Hastings before the local shipyards closed in 1909. It is typical of the luggers, a style of wide boats with thick bottoms designed to be beached in these harborless waters. Like most of the Hastings luggers, she ferried men back from Dunkirk in that heroic rescue of 1940. There are other fascinating items in the museum as well. T: (01424) 461-446, W: hastingsfish.co.uk. Open April-Oct., daily 10-5; Nov.-March, daily 10-4. Donation. 

Just up the road a few yards is the Shipwreck & Coastal Heritage Centre (8), where over 3,000 years of maritime history are illustrated with exhibitions of underwater treasures. There is a spectacular audiovisual show and working radar equipment allowing you to monitor shipping activity in the English Channel. T: (01424) 437-452, W: shipwreckheritage.org.uk. Open April-Oct., daily 10:30-5, Oct.-April, daily 11-4. Donation.

Nearly adjacent to this is the Blue Reef Aquarium (9), one of those modern aquariums where you can walk below the sea without getting wet — and look up at the sharks. There’s also a touch pool, a seabed, a sea lab, a show, and more. T: (01424) 718-776. Open daily 10-5:30. Closed Dec. 24-26. ££₤.  

From here you can stroll back along the shore. The character quickly changes to that of a resort as you pass a small boating lake and amusement area.

The Museum and Art Gallery (10), on the way back to the train station, is worth a stop. It has interesting collections of Sussex ironwork, local ceramics, and a fantastic pavilion from a 19th-century Indian Colonial palace. T: (0845) 274-1052, W: hmag.org.uk. Open April-Sept., Mon.-Sat. 10-5, Sun. 11-5; Oct.-March, Mon.-Fri. 10-4, Sat.-Sun. 11-4. Donation.

From here it is only a short stroll back to the train station.

Text and map copyright © 2003 by Earl Steinbicker, updated to 2009.

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I Love Chrome!

Yes, I really love chrome. Google's Chrome web browser, that is. For me, it works much better than the competition, including the latest version of Internet Explorer. What is especially nice is the minimalist approach it takes, doing away with the visual clutter that plagues other browsers. Chrome is also reportedly faster and more secure, but these measurements don't concern me. I'm certainly no technical genius, nor in any way a nerd, but I do appreciate something that works well even for a complete novice.

Much more information and evaluation is available on Wikipedia. Clicky. 

On top of that it's free, and free is good. Click here to try it.

The more people use Chrome, the more likely it is that webmasters will optimize their sites for it.

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The Avedon Years, Part XLVI

AT LAST! A new website devoted entirely to my experiences in assisting the renowned photographer Richard Avedon is just now up and running. Much more will be added in the coming weeks. Visit it at:

www.assistingavedon.com

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