Life's Little Adventures

Wells, England

Here's another sample chapter from my guidebook Daytrips London.

Trip 32

Wells

Completely dominated by its marvelous cathedral, England’s smallest city has a timeless beauty that is rare, even in this lovely land. Other cathedral towns have grown and become worldly while Wells slept right through the turmoil of history. Its medieval ecclesiastical complex remains complete and untouched, the largest and best preserved in the country. A delight to explore on foot, Wells is the perfect place to become involved with the Middle Ages.

Just two miles away, reached by road or, better still, a tranquil woodland path, is Wookey Hole, a great cave where early man lived over 2,000 years ago. A tour through its subterranean chambers combined with a visit to Wells makes this a very satisfying daytrip.

GETTING THERE:

Trains depart London's Paddington station at half-hour intervals for the 80-minute ride to Bath Spa, where you change to bus number 173 for Wells. This leaves from the Bath bus station, just one block away. Service to Wells operates hourly (every three hours on Sundays and holidays), taking a leisurely 80 minutes to cover the 20-mile distance through lovely villages and down country lanes. Schedules at W: travelinesw.com. Be sure to check the return schedule.

By Car, take the M4 to junction 18, then head south on the A4 to Bath. Change here to the A39 for Wells, which is 132 miles west of London.

PRACTICALITIES:

This trip may be made at any time, but note that transportation is reduced on Sundays and holidays. The Bishop’s Palace and Gardens are open daily from Easter through October, and on Wednesdays through Sundays in November & December. Good weather is essential if you intend to walk to Wookey Hole. A colorful outdoor market is held in Wells on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Some shops close early on Wednesdays.

The local tourist office, T:(01749) 672-552, W: wellstourism.com, is in the Town Hall on Market Place. Ask them about getting to Wookey Hole.

FOOD AND DRINK:

There are many old inns and pubs in Wells, mostly in the Market Place and on High and Sadler streets. Out at Wookey Hole there is a cafeteria, in addition to a nearby pub. Some good places to eat in Wells are:

The Swan (11 Sadler St., just west of the cathedral) Fine dining in a 15th-century building, now a small hotel. T: (01749) 836-300. ££

Crown (Market Place) A 15th-century inn associated with William Penn. T: (01749) 673-457. ££

Undercroft Restaurant (in the Bishop’s Palace) Snacks or full lunches in the medieval undercroft or out on the garden terrace. £ and ££

The Good Earth (4 Priory Rd., south of the bus station) Vegetarian health food in a rustic environment. T: (01749) 678-600. X: Sun. £

The Cloisters (in the cathedral cloister) Light lunches. T: (01749) 676-543. £

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leave the bus station (1) in Wells and follow the map to the Market Place (2), where an outdoor market is held on Wednesdays and Saturdays from 8:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. The tourist office is nearby.

Penniless Porch, where alms were once distributed, leads to:

*WELLS CATHEDRAL (3) (photo, above), T: (01749) 674-483, W: wellscathedral.org.uk. Open daily 7-7, closing at 6 in Oct.-March. Suggested donation Adults £5.50, Concessions £4, Children £2.50. Tours. Photo/Video permit £3. Gift shop. Restaurant.

A church has stood here since AD 704, but the present structure was begun about 1180. Its astonishing *west front is from the mid-l3th century and is decorated with 297 medieval statues, all that remain of the original 400. At one time these were brightly colored, but weather has taken its toll over the centuries. It is still possibly the finest collection of sculpture from the Middle Ages in England.

Enter the nave and examine the remarkable inverted arch under the central tower. This was erected in the 14th century to support the newly completed tower, which was already collapsing. Unique in the world of Gothic design, it has done its job well. There is a marvelous *clock in the north transept that dates from 1392 and gives an animated performance as it strikes the hour. A spectacular stone staircase nearby leads to the Chapter House, one of the finest examples of its style in the country. Continue on through the choir to see the east window, which has some unusual old glass.

A stroll through the 15th-century cloisters will bring you to the grounds of the Bishop's Palace (4), one of the oldest inhabited houses in England. The strong walls and surrounding moat were added in the 14th century to protect the bishop from rioting townspeople. Be sure to cross the drawbridge, visit the palace, and then walk out to the gardens. St. Andrew's Well provides the setting for an almost magically serene *view (photo, above) of the cathedral. T: (01749) 678-691, W: bishopspalacewells.co.uk. Open Easter through Oct., Sun.-Fri. 10:30-6; and Nov.-Dec., Wed.-Sun. 10:30-4:30. X: Mon.-Tues. Combined admission for palace and gardens: Adults £5, Concessions £4, Children £1.

From the south corner of the moat make a right on Silver Street to the early-15th-century Bishop's Barn (5). Return along the moat and turn left on Tor Street. Another left at St. Andrew's Street leads to Vicar's Close (6), a 14th-century lane of immense charm — reputed to be the oldest inhabited medieval street in Europe — that is connected to the cathedral by a bridge over the Chain Gate.

Beyond the archway lies the Wells Museum (7) on Cathedral Green. Prehistoric artifacts from Wookey Hole and other nearby caves are featured in its splendid collection, along with natural displays and local bygones. T: (01749) 673-477. Open Mon.-Sat. 11-5, Sun. 11-4. 

At this point you may be interested in an invigorating hike to Wookey Hole, two miles away. If your feet are not up to it but you would still like to go, you can take one of the hourly buses from the bus station (1), or a taxi. Those with cars should leave via Wookey Hole Road. On foot you could, of course, follow that same road, but there is a much better scenic route via a series of woodland paths. The map shows how to get out of town, and from there the route is well marked. Half of the distance is uphill, rewarding your efforts with glorious vistas. It may be wise to ask at the tourist office about trail conditions before setting out. The round trip from Wells, including seeing the caves, will take about three hours.

WOOKEY HOLE CAVES (8), Wookey Hole, Somerset, T: (01749) 672-243, W: wookey.co.uk. Open daily Apr.-Oct., 10-5 (last cave tour); Nov.-March 10-4 (last cave tour). Adults £15, Concessions and children £10. Gift shops, restaurant, cafés. Partialy handicapped accessible, but not in caves.

Wookey Hole is more than a little commercialized. This is not a serious detraction from its splendors, and may actually make the visit more fun. You will be taken through the *caves by an experienced guide who is knowledgeable in their history and legends, especially that of the witch of the Dark Ages, who was turned to stone by a monk sent in to exorcize her spirit. Near the exit there is an old paper mill (photo, below) that is now a part of the complex. Demonstrations of hand paper-making are given almost continuously. Other parts of the mill are devoted to a fascinating collection of early penny arcade amusements, a Magical Mirror Maze, and a Museum of the Caves. There is also a working waterwheel.

Returning to Wells, there are two more places you may want to visit. The Almshouses (9) on Chamberlain Street date from the 15th century. St. Cuthbert's (10), one block away, is a parish church from the same era. It has quite an interesting interior and deserves to be seen.

Text and map copyright © 2003 by Earl Steinbicker, updated to 2009.

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The Avedon Years, Part XLVII

A wonderful article about Richard Avedon, focusing mainly on the time when he was solely responsible for creating an entire issue of Harper's Bazaar magazine back in 1965, is featured in the current (December 2009) issue of Vanity Fair magazine. 

This lengthy and well-illustrated piece was written by David Michaelis, who had previously authored full biographies of N.C. Wyeth and Charles Schulz, and appears on pages 184 through 202. Of the eleven photos included, I was the prime assistant on these four:

• Page 196, portrait of Beatle Paul McCartney in a NASA spacesuit, London 1965.
• Page 194, Avedon at work photographing civil rights marchers, Atlanta 1963.
• Page 199, Harper's Bazaar April 1965 cover, with Jean Shrimpton and blinking eye (photo, right).
• Page 202, Paparazzi scene at Maxim's with Suzy Parker and Mike Nichols, Paris 1962.

Earlier this year I was interviewed by the author for this article, "The Now of Avedon," and have been eagerly awaiting it, especially as I am mentioned briefly on page 200 in connection with a strange event in London involving Richard Avedon and Beatle Ringo Starr. Eventually, hopefully late next year, all will be told in a book I'm currently writing. In the meantime, as chapters are completed I'll post some of them on my other website. Visit it at:

www.assistingavedon.com

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Ipswich, England

This revised sample chapter is from the forthcoming eighth edition of my travel guidebook Daytrips From London, available in mid-2010.

Trip 53

Ipswich

Step out of the train station at Ipswich and you might at first wonder what brought you here. Initial impressions, however, can be misleading as this ancient town does have plenty of character and a peculiar charm that slowly takes hold as you stroll its venerable streets. A visit to Ipswich will be appreciated by those who value living atmosphere above preserved quaintness.

Located ten miles inland at the navigable head of the Orwell estuary, Ipswich was first settled in prehistoric times. It became the important Anglo-Saxon port of Gipeswic as early as the 7th century. Trade expanded under Norman rule, and the town was granted a charter by King John in 1199. Ipswich flourished through the 16th century, when a decline set in that was not reversed until Victorian days. Since then, it has continued to grow as a prosperous seaport and regional center.

This trip may easily be combined in the same day with one to Woodbridge or Colchester, or less easily with Bury St. Edmunds.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains operated by National Express East Anglia depart London's Liverpool Street Station frequently for the 70-minute ride to Ipswich, with returns until late evening. Service is greatly reduced on Sundays and holidays.

By Car, Ipswich is 74 miles northeast of London via the A12.

PRACTICALITIES:

Ipswich should really be seen on a Saturday or weekday, when its streets are alive with activity. The Ipswich Museum is closed on Sundays and Mondays. The local Tourist Information Centre, T: (01473) 258-070, W: visit-ipswich.com, is in St. Stephen's Church on St. Stephen’s Lane, adjacent to the Buttermarket Shopping Centre. Ask them about short cruises on the River Orwell, operated from around Easter through September, the Ipswich Transport Museum, guided walking tours, and the open-top bus tour. Ipswich is in the county of Suffolk, and has a population of nearly 130,000.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

Ipswich enjoys a number of colorful pubs, and some good restaurants as well. A few choices are:

The Galley (25 St. Nicholas St., a block east of the Unitarian Meeting House) Excellent International cuisine, including game, seafood and lobster. T: (01473) 281-131, W: galley.uk.com. X: Sun., Bank Holidays. £££

Dhaka (6 Orwell Pl., 3 blocks north of the Old Custom House) Noted for its fine Indian cuisine. T: (01473) 251-397, W: thedhaka.co.uk. ££

[More coming]

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leaving the train station (1), cross the River Orwell and follow Princes Street to Franciscan Way. Use the underground passage to cross this busy intersection, then turn right to the Willis Building of 1975, a highly successful curved curtain wall of tinted reflective glass that represents the best in modern British architecture. Adjacent to this, and in complete contrast but blending well with it, is the Unitarian Meeting House (2) of 1699, one of the earliest nonconformist chapels in England. If the door facing Friars Street is open, you might want to take a look at the lovely interior with its fine pulpit attributed to Grinling Gibbons, its box pews, and its 17th-century Dutch chandelier.

Follow the map to Westgate Street. A short side trip can be made up High Street to the Ipswich Museum (3), which features collections of local archaeology, geology, and natural history — all refreshingly displayed in a rather old-fashioned manner. Its noted Roman Villa Gallery of costumed figures in authentic Roman room settings is highly worthwhile. T: (01473) 213-761. Open Tues.-Sat., 10-5. Closed Good Friday, Dec. 24-26, Jan. 1. Free. Gift shop.

The pedestrians-only Westgate Street leads to Corn Hill (circa 1800 drawing, above) (4). Mostly Victorian in character, this large open square is dominated on the south by the imposing Town Hall of 1867, and by the ornate Post Office of 1880.

Stroll down Tavern Street and turn left on Tower Street. The civic church of St. Mary-le-Tower (5) has an unusually tall spire and some good carved woodwork inside. Continue on to St. Margaret's Church (6), a richly detailed 15th-century flint structure considered to be the finest church in town.

A path leads into one of the best public parks in England, and to what is undoubtedly the most notable attraction of Ipswich, *Christchurch Mansion (7). Begun in 1548, this elegant country house features many period rooms filled with antiques dating from Tudor to Victorian times, and with paintings by such local Suffolk artists as Gainsborough and Constable. Don't miss the interesting kitchen and laundry. T: (01473) 253-246. Open daily 10-5. Closed Jan. 1, Good Friday, and Dec. 24-26. Free.

The route now takes you down Soane, Northgate, and Upper Brook streets to another famous sight, the *Ancient House (photo, above) (8) on Butter Market. Also known as Sparrowe's House and just about as picturesque as a house can be, this magnificent example of a 16th-century timber-framed building is profusely decorated with extraordinary carvings in high relief.

Just around the corner is the new Arras Square, named after the city in northern France. The Tourist Information Centre (9) is located here in the medieval St. Stephen's Church, while around it stands the very modern Buttermarket Shopping Centre. Cross through this and follow the map towards the river, passing some beautiful old houses en route. The passageway between numbers 9 and 13 on St. Peter's Street is particularly interesting. Turn left on College Street and examine Wolsey's Gate (10), all that remains of a college begun in 1528 by Cardinal Wolsey, a local butcher's son who rose to the very top, only to fall again when Henry VIII tired of his manipulations.

Continue on to the Old Custom House (photo, above) (11) on the quay. Always a busy scene, the colorful waterfront is a fascinating place to explore before returning to the station. Short cruises on the River Orwell are available here.

ADDITIONAL ATTRACTION:

The Ipswich Transport Museum (12), reached by local bus on route 2 (weekdays; Sundays use routes 74-79 to Felixstowe railway bridge); or by car to Felixstowe Road and Cobham Road, about two miles southeast of the Old Custom House, is housed in a former trolley depot. Its large collection includes old buses, trams, trucks, fire engines, bicycles, and a host of other vintage vehicles either manufactured or used in the Ipswich area. T: (01473) 715-666, W: ipswichtransportmuseum.co.uk. Open school holidays, Mon.-Fri. 1-4; and on Sundays and bank holidays from early April to the end of November, 11-4. Tea room. Gift shop. ££.

Copyright © 2009 by Earl Steinbicker

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Woodstock, England

Another selection from my travel guidebook Daytrips London is this easy and very popular outing to one of the grandest of grand palaces anywhere — Blenheim, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill.

Trip 38

Woodstock

Blenheim Palace is the attraction that brings thousands of visitors from all over the globe to the ancient town of Woodstock. One of the greatest of England's stately homes, it was built in the early 18th century as a fitting tribute to John Churchill, the first duke of Marlborough, who routed the French and Bavarians at the Battle of Blenheim in 1704. Before this, the vast property on which it sits was a royal hunting preserve. A manor house existed on the site since at least the time of Æthelred the Unready, everyone's favorite Saxon king. Henry I made great improvements, and his mansion remained a residence of royalty down through Tudor days. By the time Blenheim Palace was built, however, the old structure had almost fallen to ruin and all traces of it were demolished.

Woodstock itself originally grew up to service the royal manor. Several inns were established for this purpose, and today continue to provide hospitality to the many visitors who come to see Blenheim Palace. There is also a fine museum of rural life, an interesting church, and lovely old streets lined with picturesque buildings.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains depart London's Paddington Station frequently for the one-hour trip to Oxford, where you change to local bus S3. Train schedules at W: firstgreatwestern.co.uk. There is also excellent bus (coach) service from London's Victoria Coach Station to Oxford, taking about 1½ hours, W: oxfordtube.com. Local buses leave from various points in Oxford, including the train station. This service changes frequently, so check with the Oxford Tourist Centre (see page 000) for current details. The bus ride from Oxford to Woodstock takes less than 30 minutes. Schedules at W: stagecoachbus.com/timetables/S3.

By Car, Woodstock is 64 miles northwest of London. Take the A40 and M40 to Oxford, then continue on the A44 to Woodstock.

PRACTICALITIES:

Blenheim Palace is open daily from mid-February through October, and on Wednesdays to Sundays from November until mid-December. Fine weather will make this trip much more enjoyable. Some online information is available at W: woodstock-oxfordshire.com. Woodstock is in the county of Oxfordshire, and has a population of about 3,000.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

The town of Woodstock has quite a few inns, pubs, and restaurants, including:

Feathers (Market St.) Elegant, dressy dining with French overtones in a small hotel. For reservations T: (01993) 812-291. £££

The Bear (Park St.) A coaching inn from the 16th century. T: (0870) 400-8202. £££

Brothertons Brasserie (1 High St.) Light meals with a creative touch. T: (01993) 811-114. £ and ££

Black Prince (Manor Rd., just north along Oxford St.) A popular local pub with good food. T: (01993) 811-530. £

Blenheim Palace offers several places for a full meal or just a snack, including an inexpensive cafeteria.

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Begin your visit at the bus stop (1) on Oxford Street opposite the Marlborough Arms Hotel and follow the map down Market and Park streets to the entrance of the Blenheim Palace grounds. The Triumphal Arch (2), designed in 1723 by Nicholas Hawksmoor as a monument to the first duke of Marlborough, is a fitting introduction to so grandiose a place. On your right is a lake created in 1764 by the renowned landscape architect Lancelot “Capability” Brown.

*BLENHEIM PALACE (3), T: (01993) 811-325, W: blenheimpalace.com. Open mid-February through Oct., daily 10:30-5:30; November through mid-December, Wed.-Sun. 10:30-5:30. Last admission at 4:45. £££. Park open all year, daily 9-5. Park only ££. Frequent events. Food service.

Blenheim Palace has been continuously occupied by the dukes of Marlborough since it was begun by Sir John Vanbrugh in the early 18th century as a gift from Queen Anne. Sir Winston Churchill, grandson of the seventh duke, was born here in 1874 and is buried nearby at Bladon Church. There is an exhibition of his personal belongings in the palace, which remains home to the present (11th) duke. To see its magnificent interior you can either take one of the frequent guided tours, lasting about an hour, or wander through on your own.

Be sure to explore at least part of the palace grounds after seeing the interior. The Butterfly House, where exotic tropical butterflies live in a virtually natural habitat, is another attraction included in the entrance fee. You can get to it by miniature railway or on foot. Close to this is the Marlborough Maze (4), the world's largest symbolic hedge maze.

A pleasant way to return to Woodstock is to follow the route on the map (photo, above). The Grand Bridge (5), an extravagant span over what was then only a creek, was part of Vanbrugh's original design. Most of it is now under water. The land just beyond it was the site of the old Woodstock Manor, for centuries a country residence for England's kings and queens.

Back in the village, stroll down Park Street and visit the small but interesting Oxfordshire Museum (6), which features displays of local life through the centuries along with temporary exhibitions. It is located in the historic Fletchers House, which also has a small Tourist Office and a coffee shop. T: (01993) 811-456, W: oxfordshire.gov.uk/the_oxfordshire_museum.

The town stocks (image, right), outside the museum, have holes for five legs. Was this a joke or did Woodstock have an unusual number of one-legged culprits? The Church (7) is often overlooked but is actually a fascinating study in changing styles, ranging from Norman to Perpendicular. Beyond this, the village offers several interesting shops and some very appealing pubs in which to relax.

Text and map copyright © 2009 by Earl Steinbicker.

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"Oji Campu" Page 7

Remember that scruffy Oji Station of the 1950s? The one that us army guys at Tokyo's "Oji Campu" used? Has it ever changed! Here's a link to a fantastic 360° panoramic view of the neighborhood that goes round and round, up and down, in and out, by clicking on its navigation control near the upper left.. It's too big a file for my blog, but just click on the link below and enjoy!

 http://www.360cities.net/image/oji-station-tokyo-japan

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Arundel, England

 

This little do-it-yourself adventure in England is taken from my guidebook Daytrips London, and updated for the forthcoming Eighth Edition.

Trip 22

Arundel

Like a vision from a fairy tale, the picture-book town of Arundel nestles snugly at the base of its massive castle. Both date from the time of the Norman Conquest, and possibly even earlier. Arundel was mentioned in the Domesday Book of 1086 as a port of some consequence, which it remained throughout the Middle Ages. There is still a good deal of boating activity on its river, the Arun, which flows into the sea at nearby Littlehampton. Delightful country walks can be made along its banks and to the Arundel Wetlands Centre, or through peaceful Arundel Park. Those preferring more sedentary activities will find excellent antique and crafts shops, charming pubs, and a  small museum. The main attraction remains, of course the castle — one of the finest in all England.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains to Arundel leave hourly from London's Victoria Station. The journey takes about 90 minutes, with return services until mid-evening.

 By Car, Arundel is 56 miles south of London via the A24 and A29 roads.

PRACTICALITIES:

Avoid coming on a Monday (except in August) or between early November and the end of March, when the castle is closed. The local Tourist Information Centre, T: (01903) 882-268, W: sussexbythesea.com, is at 1-3 Crown Yard Mews on River Road. Arundel is in the county of West Sussex, and has a population of about 3,000.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Among the many restaurants, pubs, and tea rooms are:

Listings are being updated for the new edition.

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leaving the train station (1), turn left and follow The Causeway and Queen Street to the River Arun. Because the main part of castle does not open until noon, you might want to begin with a short country walk of a bit over one mile.

To do this, cross the bridge and turn right on Mill Road, passing a parking lot. Continue on until you come to a recreation ground on the right. Just beyond this turn right on a well-defined track that leads to the river, then turn right and follow the embankment with its gorgeous views of town and castle. Back near the bridge are the ruins of the Dominican Priory (2), founded in the mid-13th century for preaching friars near the bridge and market place where townspeople came together. Nearby, in temporary quarters, is the Arundel Museum and Heritage Centre, featuring displays of bygone times with models, tools, weapons, clothes, photographs and the like. T: (01903) 88-23-04, W: arundelmuseum.org.uk. Open mid-March through late Oct., daily, 11-3. £. A new museum building is to be located closeby.

Follow the map uphill to:

*ARUNDEL CASTLE (3), T: (01903) 883-136, W: arundelcastle.org. Open Tues.-Sun. (plus Mon. in Aug.), first Sat. in April to first Sun. in November., grounds at 10, keep at 11, interior at noon. Closes at 5. Last admission at 4. ££₤. Restaurant. Gift shop. Enter castle via drawbridge.

Arundel Castle is everything a great fortress should be. Built in the late 11th century, it was besieged by Henry I in 1102 and again by King Stephen in 1139. After severe damage caused by Parliamentary forces during the Civil War in 1643, it fell into a dilapidated state until restoration began in the 18th century. What you see today is mostly a romantic Victorian vision, a stately home with all the trappings of a medieval stronghold. Throughout most of its history, the castle has been the seat of the dukes of Norfolk and their ancestors, the Fitzalans. This family, among the highest nobility in England, has always remained Roman Catholic despite centuries of persecution, a fact that explains much of what you'll see in Arundel.

Enter the castle grounds via Lower Lodge in Mill Road and follow the signed route up the driveway. Enter the castle itself via an iron gateway and a flight of steps. The immense *Barons' Hall features some interesting paintings, including a portrait by Van Dyck. The route leads past the Dining Room and the drawing room, which has an appealing lived-in quality and several fine portraits by Gainsborough, Reynolds, and Van Dyck. The elaborate bed in the Victoria Room was made for the queen's visit in 1846. From here you go through the handsome Library and several smaller rooms to an exit near the keep the shop and restaurant.

Before or after touring the main castle building, you might want to climb the steps of the 12th-century Keep, which was occupied only during a siege. A banner is flown from its top whenever the duke is in residence.

Before leaving the castle grounds, take a walk over to the 14th-century Fitzalan Chapel (4). Many of the earls of Arundel and dukes of Norfolk are buried here. A wrought-iron grill and glass wall separates this Catholic chapel from the Anglican parish church, another part of the same building.

Exit through the gate and stroll up London Road. On your right is the Protestant part of the church, which makes an interesting contrast and should be visited.

Just beyond this stands the Roman Catholic Cathedral of Our Lady and St. Philip Howard (5), begun in a grandiose French Gothic style in 1869 as a parish church. It became a cathedral only in 1965, when a new bishopric was created for the region. Inside is the tomb of the 13th Earl of Arundel, canonized in 1970 as Saint Philip, who died in the Tower of London in 1595 for the crime of praying for the success of the Spanish Armada. Other features of the cathedral include its attractive rose window above the west door, and its fine stone carvings throughout. T: (01903) 882-297. Open daily 9-6, or dusk when earlier. Free. 

Follow the map to the spooky Ghost Experience (6), in the underground prison cells of the old Town Hall, where ghosts of former inmates tell their tales. Open daily, 10-6, ££. T: (01903) 889-821, W: arundelghostexperience.com. 

Two other places in Arundel may interest you, both just off the map but within easy walking distance along Mill Road (7). They are Arundel Park, a gorgeous 1,100-acre spread of natural beauty beginning at Swanbourne Lake, and the Arundel Wetland Centre where you can observe a great variety of exotic wildfowl from around the world in natural environments from hidden vantage points. The latter is open daily from 9:30–5:30, closing at 4:30 p.m. in winter. Last admission an hour before closing. Closed Christmas Day. ££₤. Restaurant. Gift shop. Picnic facilities. T: (01903) 883-355, W: wwt.org.uk.

Text and map copyright © 2009 by Earl Steinbicker

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