Life's Little Adventures

Austria's Greatest Alpine Lake

Here's yet another SAMPLE ENTRY from my current app "Innsbruck Travel: the City & the Alps." The complete app for the iPad, iPhone, and iPod Touch may be downloaded at Apple's iTunes App Store. This app takes you to many unusual places within daytrip range of Innsbruck, and within the city itself, along with the popular favorites. It is also available on Google's App Store for download to most Android devices under the name "Innsbruck & the Alps."

Exploring the Achensee

Here's a one-day trip from Innsbruck that's easy to do but packs a lot of alpine experiences into a single passage.

It begins by riding a small 19th-century steam-operated cogwheel train through gorgeous countryside to one of the most fabulous lakes anywhere.

There you ascend by cable car to the top of a 6,000-foot mountain and perhaps take a short trail walk with sweeping vistas, or even try your hand at paragliding.

To finish off a fun-filled day you board a boat for a two-hour cruise to lakeside villages and return, with the opportunity for dinner onboard. After that, it's back the way you came.

The Achensee is the largest lake in the Tirol, with crystal-clear mountain water that's nearly pure enough to drink without treatment. It is sometimes referred to as the "Fjord of the Alps" as it lies at the bottom of a deep valley surrounded by rugged snow-covered peaks.

This complete trip can only be taken between the beginning of May and the end of October, when both the steam train and the boats operate. Otherwise, you could drive or take buses the entire way, but that's not nearly as much fun.

Watch your time carefully so you don't miss the last connection back to Jenbach.

There are numerous places for lunch around Maurach, the upper station of the Rohan cable car, and on board the lake steamer. All serve typical Tyrolean dishes, or just coffee, cakes, and other refreshments.

Trains depart Innsbruck's main station quite frequently for the short ride to Jenbach, which takes no more than 30 minutes. Return service operates until late evening.

By Car, take the A-12 highway 22 miles (35 km) northeast to Jenbach, then north a few blocks on Achenseestrasse and right on Bahnhofstrasse. There you'll find the Achenseebahn station to the right.

TOUR:

Touch photo in upper left. It will then fill the screen and morph into a DIAGRAM MAP. Touch this to remain on screen, and again to exit. NUMBERS on the map correspond to numbers in the text.

[Names in BOLD FACE CAPITAL LETTERS are actually links to separate entries within the app to those attractions. These links do not function on this blog, nor are the photos and additional practical information posted here].

Begin at the Achenseebahn station (1), next to Jenbach's regular train station. Here you purchase a combo ticket valid for the cogwheel train, cable cars, and boats, then board the ancient ACHENSEEBAHN steam train for a 35-minute ride to Maurach.

From the Maurach stop (2) it is only a short walk to the Rofan Seilbahn (3), a cable car that takes you right up to the ROFANSPITZE (4), where you can take an easy hike along the mountain top, engage in the thrilling sport of paragliding, enjoy the view from the Eagle's Nest, or just have lunch at one of several mountain inns.

Returning to the valley, either re-board the cog train or walk to Seespitz (5), the lakeside terminus of the rail line. Here you board a lake steamer for the one-hour ACHENSEE CRUISE to Scholastica (6), and another one-hour ride back to Seespitz, followed by the steam train back to Jenbach. Meals are available on board the boats.

NEARBY SITE:

SCHLOSS TRATZBERG (7) lies a short ride west of Jenbach. Dating from at least 1149 and presented in a fairytale manner, this is one of the best-preserved medieval castles in Austria.

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Exploring Faversham: a Daytrip from London

This is a SAMPLE ENTRY from my current app "London Travel: a Guide to Great Day Trips." The complete app for the iPad, iPhone, and iPod Touch may be downloaded at Apple's iTunes App Store. This app takes you to many unusual places within daytrip range of London, along with the popular favorites. It is also available on Google's App Store for download to most Android devices under the name "London's Backyard."

 

A Delightfully Unpretentious Country Town

Located at the end of a tidal creek, the ancient port of Faversham has remained a delightfully unpretentious little town for over a thousand years. Relatively few tourists venture this way, but those who do are enchanted by its simple charms.

Settlements existed on this site since prehistoric times, with Faversham being mentioned in a charter of AD 811. It became a town of some importance during the Middle Ages, when many of its present structures were built. Along with Dover, Rye, and a few other towns, it was a member of the Cinque Ports confederation, owing allegiance only to the Crown.

Despite this heritage, the town is not another preserved relic of the past but a growing community with its own thriving industries. A visit to Faversham makes a refreshing change from the usual tourist circuit and can easily be combined with one to Canterbury.

Trains depart London's Victoria Station [VIC] at least twice an hour for the 77-minute ride to Faversham [FAV]. Return service operates until late evening.

By Car, Faversham is 49 miles southeast of London via the A3 and M2 highways.

Good weather is essential for this outdoor trip. A colorful outdoor market is held on Tuesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. The local Tourist Information Centre is in the Fleur de Lis Heritage Centre at 11 Preston Street.

Annual events include a Classic Car Rally in May, a Hop Festival in early September, and a Carnival in mid-October. Ask at the Tourist Centre for current details, or check their website.

Commemorative plaques and viewpoint keys have been installed in the town, helping to bring history to life. An excellent guide to these can be downloaded from their website.

Faversham is in the county of Kent and has a population of about 18,000.

FOOD & DRINK:

Faversham is famous for its brewery, Shepherd Neame, which was founded here in 1698, is the oldest in Britain, and still makes what is called "real ale." Their Visitor Centre at 10 Court Street offers brewery tours on select days, T: (01797) 542-016, W: shepherdneame.co.uk. Advance booking is recommended. Two-hour tours with tasting cost £11.50 for adults, £10.50 for seniors, and £9 for children 12-17.

Some choice places to eat are:

FAVERSHAM KEBAB HOUSE

CHINA VILLAGE

PHOENIX TAVERN & RESTAURANT

ALBION TAVERNA

THE SUN INN

TOUR:

Touch photo in upper left. It will then fill the screen and morph into a DIAGRAM MAP. Touch that to remain on screen, THEN slide a finger from right to left to enjoy more photographic views. NUMBERS on the map correspond to numbers in the text. NOTE that on this map north points to the left in order to conserve space.

[Names in BOLD FACE CAPITAL LETTERS are actually links to separate entries within the app to those attractions. These links do not function on this blog, nor are the photos and additional practical information posted here].

Leave the train station (1) and walk down Preston Street to the tourist office and museum. The Fleur de Lis Heritage Centre (2) provides an excellent introduction to Faversham's past and present. The former 15th-century inn that houses it also contains the FLEUR DE LIS MUSEUM AND GALLERY.

Continue down Preston Street, turning left on Market Street. It was in the house at number 12 that King James II was held prisoner by local fishermen when he tried to flee the country in 1688.

In a few yards you will come to the Guildhall (3), a rather elegant Georgian building set atop 16th-century pillars. An open-air market is held under this on Tuesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. Established in 1086, it is the oldest market in Kent, and a wonderful place to meet the locals. Note the interesting town pump at the rear.

Court Street contains many fine 17th- and 18th-century houses. Follow it to Church Street and turn right to the parish church of St. Mary of Charity (4), which has a particularly elegant, and very rare, crown spire. It dates mostly from around 1320, though the nave is mainly 18th-century, with one Norman bay. The grotesque misericords in the choir are among the finest in England. Other features unusual for a parish church are the aisled transepts and the 14th-century frescoed pillar. This is actually the second-largest parish church in Kent, and larger than some of Britain's smaller cathedrals. Stroll around the churchyard, then follow the footpath to Abbey Place, passing the 16th-century Old Grammar School.

The famous 15th-century Arden's House on the southeast corner of Abbey Place was the scene of a notorious murder in 1551, which became the basis for the first play in English to use a contemporary event as its theme. Published in 1592, Arden of Feversham is still in the national repertory.

Abbey Street is lined with well-preserved houses dating from the 16th and 17th centuries. Turn right on it and walk down to Standard Quay (5).

Going past old warehouses, follow the creek until you come to a former warehouse, now beautifully converted to office use. All along here you will see old sailing barges, some of which are restored as houseboats, and which still take place in sailing barge races in the summer.

The sailing barge GRETA of 1892 may be chartered for trips by groups of up to 12; individuals can be fit in with groups if space permits. Make advance reservations at T: (07711) 657-919, W: greta1892. co.uk.

Now return to Abbey Street and make a right at Quay Lane. Cross the bridge by the brewery and walk out along Front Brents, from which you get a colorful view of the tiny waterway. Faversham's prosperity has always been closely linked with the creek, and 350 years ago it was England's main wool-exporting port, with busy trade to the Netherlands.

From here follow the map past the austere 12th-century Davington Church and down to Stonebridge Pond (6). Local streets opposite lead to the restored CHART GUNPOWDER MILLS (7).

Return to the pond and turn right on West Street. In a short distance this becomes a charming pedestrians-only street leading back to the Guildhall.

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Exploring the Wachau

This is a sample entry from my current app Vienna Travel: the City & Great Day Trips. The complete app for the iPad, iPhone, and iPod Touch may be downloaded Free at Apple's iTunes App Store. It is also available for $2.99 on Google Play for Android devices, where it is known as Vienna & Beyond Travel Guide. This app takes you to many unusual places within daytrip range of Vienna, along with the popular favorites.

Names in BOLD FACE CAPITAL LETTERS are actually links to separate entries for those attractions, which are not included on this blog. They are not functional on this blog entry, nor are all of the photos and maps included.

 

A Leisurely One-Day Trip Down the Danube

The Danube may not be blue but it certainly is beautiful, especially in the mountainous section near Vienna known as the Wachau.

For thousands of years this liquid highway has seen the migrations of numerous peoples who have left behind a treasury of historic sites. A cruise along its spectacular scenery is a journey through European history. Abbeys and castles, vineyards and farmlands dot the Danube's banks as it cuts a nearly 1,800-mile-long path from the Black Forest to the Black Sea. By using a combination of trains and boat visitors to Vienna can leisurely explore one of its most magnificent lengths in a single day — and still be back in the capital in time for dinner. This is truly an excursion you won't soon forget.

Trains depart Vienna's Westbahnhof several times in the morning for Melk, a ride of about an hour. Some may require a change at St. Pölten. Returning after the boat ride, there are hourly trains from Dürnstein to Krems, and trains from Krems to Vienna's Franz-Josefs-Bahnhof. If this station is out of the way for you, you can get off at Heiligenstadt instead, and there transfer to a subway to the center of town. Check current schedules at oebb.at.

Boats operated by the DDSG line depart Melk at 11 a.m. or 1:30 p.m. for the cruise downstream to Dürnstein or Krems. Get current information online at ddsg-blue-danube.at.

A bargain Kombi-Ticket is available that covers the train and boat, as well as the Abbey of Melk and a museum in Krems. This can be purchased at the ticket windows in the Vienna Westbahnhof or from major tourist information offices. More information at ddsg-blue-danube.at.

By Car, you will have to forego the boat ride and drive from Melk to Dürnstein and/or Krems instead. Take the A-1 Autobahn west from Vienna to Melk, then cross the river nearby at Emmersdorf and take the B-3 road along the north bank of the Danube to Dürnstein and Krems. The same road continues back to Vienna. The total round trip is about 112 miles (180 km).

This trip requires good weather, and should be taken between April and October, when the boats operate and the abbey is open. Boats on this route operate from late April through late September, and with limited service from early to late April and late September to early November.

Visits to the Abbey at Melk are by advance reservation tours only from about November until mid-March, but open the rest of the year without reservations (although these are still recommended for guided tours).

Recommended restaurants on this route are:

TOM'S MELK

STIFTSRESTAURANT

ALTE POST

RATHAUSKELLER

To see DIAGRAM MAPS of this tour just touch the photo in the upper left. It will then fill the screen and morph into an area map. Touch that to keep it on the screen. Touch again for a map of Melk, THEN slide a finger from right to left for more photos. Touch in upper left to return to text. NUMBERS on the DIAGRAM MAPS correspond to numbers in the text.

Attractions mentioned in BOLD CAPITAL letters have their own entries with complete details. Touch to open.

Begin at the train station in Melk (1), then walk down Bahnhofstrasse to Kirchplatz, which has a fine 15th-century parish church. From here the narrow Kirchengasse leads through buildings to the main street, Hauptstrasse. Turn right and stroll through Rathausplatz (2), then climb Stiftsweg to the famous MELK ABBEY (3).

Return via Stiftsweg to Rathausplatz with its 16th-century Town Hall. From here the medieval Sterngasse, the oldest street in Melk, winds its way over to Hauptplatz (4). All along this route you will pass many fine old buildings, some dating from the 16th century.

At Felserweg make a right and continue to the waterfront, once the Danube itself but now just an arm of the great river. Turning right, go past the little bridge and the base of the abbey to the Pier (Lokal Schiffstation) (5) from which you board the boat for either Dürnstein or Krems.

The boat takes a leisurely 80 minutes to cover the 17-mile stretch to Dürnstein, making one stop along the way. Sleepy villages and gentle vineyards line the river's banks as the ruins of ancient castles on the hills remind us of the days when the Danube was the favorite route of marauding Eastern hordes. Evidence of man's earliest existence in these parts was found in Willendorf in the form of a tiny Venus statuette, which dates back to at least 20,000 B.C.  and is now displayed at the Natural History Museum in Vienna.

After a sharp bend in the river the boat arrives at Dürnstein, probably the prettiest little town on the Danube. Leaving the pier (6), climb the steep path inside a tunnel and turn left on Haupstrasse. At its end is an early-17th-century castle, now an elegant hotel. Beyond this, to the right, are remains of the Bürgerturm (7) and walls leading up to the ancient castle atop the hill. These date from at least the 12th century. Note how the main road along the north bank of the Danube tunnels under Dürnstein at this point, exiting at the other end of town near the train station. The railroad tracks take a similar route. These arrangements do much to preserve the tranquility of the old town by avoiding through traffic.

Return along the charming Hauptstrasse to the late-Gothic Town Hall (Rathaus) (8), which has a tourist information office, and turn right. A few steps down, on the right, is the entrance to the CHORHERRENSTIFT (9).

Leaving the monastery, return to Hauptstrasse and turn right. Just before the town gate make a left into the picturesque old cemetery (10) with its interesting 14th-century charnel house and Gothic church. Now pass through the Kremser Tor (11) gate and turn left. The street leads up the hill past houses and vineyards. At its end a path continues, following the old town walls, to the ruins of Dürnstein Castle (Kuenringerburg) (12).

It was here, in 1192-93 that King Richard the Lionhearted of England was held prisoner by the Duke of Babenburg following his return from the Third Crusade. While still in Palestein the proud king had insulted the duke's honor and upon returning to the Continent was captured near Vienna. According to popular legend his whereabouts were discovered by his faithful troubadur, Blondel, who wandered through the Wachau Valley singing songs that could only be known by an Englishman. At Dürnstein Castle Blondel heard a second stanza of the same song coming from within the walls, thus revealing the place of captivity. An enormous ransom was negotiated and King Richard moved to another castle in the German Rhineland before being set free.

After exploring the ruins, return via the well-worn woodland path that follows the town side of the walls. This brings you back on Hauptstrasse. Checking the time against the train schedule, you may find that you have a half-hour or so left before departure, in which case a visit to one of the wine gardens would be a pleasant way to end your day in Dürnstein. Then follow Hauptstrasse through the gate and stroll down past the intersection with the main road. Just beyond here, to the left, is the Train Station (Bahnhof) (13). Take the train to Krems and either change there to a connecting train for Vienna or, if time permits, explore this delightful old wine town.

Krems an der Donau, to use its full name, is a gorgeous town filled with Baroque and Renaissance treasures. It is joined to the neighboring village of Stein by a tiny settlement called Und, giving rise to the local saying that Krems Und Stein sind drei Städte, a puzzling statement that translates to "Krems and Stein are three towns." You can ponder this while sampling some of the local wines, produced here since time immemorial.

Walk straight ahead from the train station (14) and turn left onto Untere Landstrasse, in the heart of a pedestrian zone. Above this is Pfarrplatz and the Baroque St. Veit Church, behind which stands the 15th-century Piaristenkirche with its Gothic vaulting and Baroque interior. The Weinstadt Museum (15) has displays on local wine making and the local wine trade.

Now find your way back to the train station and board the next train to Vienna.

The entry on the actual app "Vienna: the City & Great Day Trips" contains more photos, maps, and entries for major attractions, along with eleven more daytrip destinations in and around Vienna. Download it Free to your iPad, iPhone, or iPod Touch at Apple's iTunes App Store. It is also available as "Vienna & Beyond Travel Guide" at $2.99 for Android devices at Google's App Play Store. 

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Katz's Deli

The other day a friend and I became ravenously hungry for a really good Rueben sandwich, a treat that is difficult to find here in the Philadelphia suburbs. Okay, you can get a good one locally, but not a really, really, superlatively good one. One that just oozes Russian dressing, melted Swiss cheese, sauerkraut, and plenty of sliced corned beef — all between freshly baked rye bread.

 

So we headed over to New York City, to its Lower East Side, and thence to Katz’s Deli on East Houston Street. Long a favorite of both New Yorkers and in-the-know visitors, Katz’s has been at that location since 1888 and is widely considered to be among the city’s best sandwich joints.  A visit there is a real experience, one that is quite rare in this age of chain eateries whose only interest is the bottom line.

Not that Katz’s is especially cheap. It isn’t. Nor is it fancy or even comfortable. Upon entering the premises you are handed a ticket, which you present at each food station as you assemble your meal. On this is kept a running total, which you present to the cashier on the way out, making payment there.

 

 During World War II Katz’s advertised with the phrase “Send a Salami to Your Boy in the Army,” a tradition they still honor with free shipping to overseas U.S. military addresses including Iraq and Afghanistan. Another catch phrase from the 1950s became part of a popular Tom Lehrer song with the words “Remember Mommy, I’m off to get a Commie, so send me a salami, and try to smile somehow.” 

Well, we didn't get a commie, but we did smile after sharing that delicious Reuben (way too big for one person!) and washing it down with two large beers.

www.katzdeli.com

The top photo is by Ernesto Andrade via Wikipedia Creative Commons. The other snaps are by me.

 

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Another Stroll Into the Past …

 McSorley's on East 7th Street. That's Charlie and John on the right.

… With a Delicious Ending.

9 a.m., Wednesday, April 21, 2010. My friend Charlie Reilly and I took off from suburban Philadelphia by car to Hamilton, N.J., where we boarded a Jersey Transit commuter train to New York City's Penn Station. Incredibly, every paved parking spot at the station was already filled, so we had to park in an old overspill lot. When we asked the conductor why so many people were heading for the Big Apple he replied "because it's Wednesday." It turned out that Wednesday is Matinée Day on Broadway, attracting thousands of Jersey housewives.

Once there, we took a Fifth Avenue bus past my old studio down to Washington Square, where by prearrangement we met Charlie's friend, John. From there we more-or-less followed a variation of the route I described in my 2004 guidebook, Daytrips New York. 

After soaking up the atmosphere of Greenwich Village we headed over to the less-explored East Village, following The Bowery up to Astor Place and the old Cooper Union building of 1859. It was here, on February 27, 1860, in the Great Hall, that Abraham Lincoln delivered the historic anti-slavery speech that won him the presidency later that year. The very next day following our walk another president spoke here. That was Barack Obama, who addressed a group of Wall Street bankers, chiding them for their "failure of responsibility" and calling for tighter regulation of their industry. Lincoln and Obama were not the only presidents to have given speeches in this room — others include Grant, Cleveland, Taft, Teddy Roosevelt, Wilson, and Clinton.

By now we were hungry and, more to the point, thirsty. Fortunately, just around the corner from Cooper Union stands the world-famous McSorley's Old Ale House, here since 1854 and virtually unchanged since then. Oh, they do allow women in now, following a 1970 lawsuit. Tradition has it that Honest Abe imbibed here after his famous speech.

McSorley's serves their own ale, and only their own ale, dark or light, two mugs at a time. The prices are quite reasonable, but don't ask for any other beverage because they don't have it. They do have food, a selection of inexpensive sandwiches and hot meals from a daily menu on a chalkboard.

Ten dark ales coming up … our table was the one to the right, but that's not us. This photo was swiped from Wikipedia..

Prohibition, that vile social "reform" of the 1920s, hardly affected McSorley's, which continued to serve their own ale as if nothing had happened. The fact that this was a popular hangout for politicians probably helped avoid police raids. Back then it was brewed in the basement; today it's made by a major brewery and sold in bottles throughout the nation.

With an atmosphere reminiscent of Olde New York, McSorley's walls are covered with faded memorabilia, none of which has been removed since 1910. The floors are still covered with sawdust, the waiters and bartenders still emphatically Irish. And the suds, called "the ale which never lets you grow old," by the poet e.e. cummings, remains unchanged to this day. 

McSorley's old motto, "Good Ale, Raw Onions and No Ladies," however, is no longer in effect following a 1970 court ruling concerning gender discrimination. Its remaining mottos are "Be Good or Be Gone" and "We Were Here Before You Were Born."

The definitive book about McSorley's (and a few other New York oddities) was written in 1943 by Joseph Mitchell under the title McSorley's Wonderful Saloon. It is still in print and available on Amazon (see below). To learn more check out McSorley's own website (click here).

 Thirst sated, we wandered through Cooper Square, passing Lafayette Street and Broadway to LaGuardia Place, where we stopped at an outdoor café for a final libation before returning to Penn Station and home. Near the café stood a statue honoring the "Little Flower," Fiorello H. LaGuardia, New York's exceedingly colorful mayor from 1934 to 1945. That's him on the right.

Text, top 2 photos and bottom photo copyright © 2010 Earl Steinbicker

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Bamberg, Germany

Beer lovers, rejoice! Bamberg's citizens down more of the brew than anyone else. And there's a lot more to enjoy in the beautifully-preserved corner of Bavaria. I've been featuring it in my travel guidebook Daytrips Germany ever since the first edition way back in 1984, and the place remains as enjoyable as ever. 

Trip 16

Bamberg

A Daytrip from Munich

Of all the medieval cities in Germany, Bamberg stands out as perhaps the one least touched by the ravages of war. Well over a thousand years of history enrich this ancient ecclesiastical and commercial center in Upper Franconia. It is a place filled with picturesque corners, charming waterfront houses and narrow, winding streets, as well as magnificent churches whose spires cap the seven hills on which it is built.

Although this area has been settled since the late Stone Age, the earliest documented reference to Castrum Babenberg, as it was then called, dates from AD 902. Bamberg was well established as a center of learning before the 12th century. Despite occupation by the Swedes during the Thirty Years War, the town was spared the destruction of the Reformation and remained true to the Catholic faith. It was not until 1802 that it was secularized and made a part of Bavaria. Industrialization began in the late 19th century, but this took place at the eastern end of town, well away from its ancient core. Bamberg survived World War II virtually unscathed, and today offers visitors a chance to experience a city whose fabric has remained intact for centuries.

This trip can also be made from other bases such as Nürnberg or Würzburg.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains leave Munich's main station about hourly for the 2½-hour trip to Bamberg, which may require a change at Nürnberg. Return connections run until mid-evening.

By Car from Munich, take the A-9 Autobahn to Nürnberg, then the A-73 to Bamberg. Bamberg is 232 km (143) miles north of Munich.

PRACTICALITIES:

Bamberg is compact and can be comfortably explored in any season. Some of its sights are closed on Mondays, Tuesdays, and holidays. The local Tourist Information Office (Tourismus & Kongress Service), T: (0951) 2976-200, W: bamberg.info, is at Geyerswörthstrasse 3, 3 blocks southeast of the Altes Rathaus. You might consider purchasing their Bamberg Card, which covers local buses, a guided tour, and entry to selected museums. Bamberg has a population of about 70,000.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

The most famous specialty of Bamberg is its unique Rauchbier (smoked beer), an acquired taste definitely worth trying. Its regular beers are superb, and its citizens probably quaff more of the suds than anyone else on Earth. Some recommended restaurants are:

Weinhaus Messerschmitt (Langestr. 41, 3 blocks northeast of the E.T.A. Hoffmann House) A romantic medieval inn run by the same family since 1832. Excellent dining room. For reservations T: (0951) 297-800. €€€

Brauereigaststätte Schlenkerla (Dominikerstr. 6, 2 blocks west of the Altes Rathaus) The place for Rauchbier, a rustic old beer hall with a boisterous crowd and hearty food. The name, Schlenkerla, incidentally, implies “tipsy.” T: (0951) 560-60. X: Tues. €

Klosterbräu (Obere Mühlbrücke, by the bridge near Mühlwörth) Simple local dishes and fresh local beer. T: (0951) 522-65. €

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

 Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leave the train station (1) and follow the map to the Kettenbrücke, a bridge spanning the Regnitz. You will probably see barge traffic on the river, as Bamberg is a major inland port. Cross the bridge and continue on Hauptwachstrasse.

Walk straight ahead past Maximiliansplatz, with its "new" town hall and market place, and into the delightful Grüner Markt (2). This large open square, dominated by the Baroque St. Martin's Church and the 17th-century Neptune Fountain, is reserved for pedestrians.

Obstmarkt leads to the Untere Brücke, a bridge over the left arm of the Regnitz. In the center of this stands the *Altes Rathaus (photo, top of page) (3), easily the most remarkable old town hall in Germany. Its extraordinary position in the middle of the river was determined by the local politics of the Middle Ages. At that time it had to administer both the ecclesiastical and civic halves of the city without showing preference for either, hence the truly mid-stream stance. Originally built in the 15th century, it was heavily reconstructed in the rococo style during the 18th. Among other things, the Old Town Hall now houses the noted Ludwig Collection of Baroque Porcelain and Faience. T: (0951) 871-871. Open Tues.-Sun. 9:30-4:30. €. Looking downstream, you will have a good view of the colorful fishermen's houses along the Regnitz, an area known as Klein-Venedig (Little Venice).

After crossing the river, make the first left and then another left onto the Obere Brücke, which goes through the Old Town Hall, allowing a more detailed examination. Return to the left bank and stroll to a small footbridge from which you will have the best possible view of the Altes Rathaus and the 17th-century half-timbered building curiously attached to it.

On the other side make a right at Geyerswörth Castle, built in 1585 as the town residence of the prince-bishop. Continue along to the next bridge and turn right. Midway across this you can stroll out on Untere Mühlbrücke for a wonderful view.

Now follow the map through the Old Town to Domplatz, one of the most attractive public squares in Germany. The *Cathedral (Dom) (photo, above) (4), first consecrated in 1012 by Emperor Heinrich II, was rebuilt in its present form during the 13th century after two fires destroyed the original structure. It contains the only tomb of a pope in Germany, that of Clement II, who died in 1047 and is buried in the west chancel. The cathedral is exceptionally rich in works of art, the most renowned of which is the *Bamberger Rider (photo, left), a 13th-century equestrian statue of a king by an unknown sculptor. Just to the right of this is the elaborate *Sarcophagus of Emperor Heinrich II and his wife Kunigunda, carved in 1513 by Tilman Riemenschneider. Another masterpiece, on the west wall of the south transept, is the Marien Altar by Veit Stoss. The Diocesan Museum, adjacent to the cathedral, contains many more treasures, including the imperial cloak of Heinrich II and the robes of Pope Clement II.

Walk across the square to the:

NEUE RESIDENZ (New Residence) (5), T: (0951) 519-390. Open April-Sept., daily 9-6; Oct.-March 10-4, closed on some holidays. €.

This massive Baroque structure was erected between 1697 and 1703 for the very wealthy Prince-Bishop Franz von Schönborn. Step inside for a look at the magnificent Kaisersaal (Emperor's Room) and the luxurious apartments of the prince-bishops. There is also a splendid art gallery with pictures ranging from the Middle Ages to the 18th century. While there, be sure to get out into the Rose Garden for a superb view of the town.

Across from this is the Reiche Tor, a richly ornamented gate leading into the Alte Hofhaltung (Old Imperial Court) (photo, above) (6), one of the most enchanting sights in Bamberg. The grandiose, quiet inner courtyard is surrounded by half-timbered buildings and the remains of the old Diet Hall, which was used as the seat of local government for over 500 years after 1085. One wing now houses the Historisches Museum, with its exhibitions on the history and culture of Bamberg and Upper Franconia. T: (0951) 871-142, Open May-Oct., Tues.-Sun. 9-5. €.

A gate at the rear of the courtyard opens into Domstrasse. From here follow the map to St. Michael's Church (7), part of a former Benedictine abbey originally founded in the 17th century. Inside, there are several interesting things to see, particularly the Tomb of St. Otto behind the high altar. Crawling through the hole in this is, according to local tradition, a sure cure for lumbago. The ceiling is also unusual, featuring paintings of over 600 different medicinal herbs. As you leave the church, turn right and amble out to the terrace, which offers a wonderful view of the surrounding countryside.

The same monastic complex also houses the:

FRÄNKISCHES BRAUEREIMUSEUM (Franconian Brewery Museum) (7), T: (0951) 530-16. Open April-Oct., Wed.-Sun. 1-5, closed Good Friday. €.

Here is where the local art of making great beer is explored. This is particularly appropriate in a town whose average citizen consumes some 330 liters of beer a year, the world's record.

The route back to the Old Town takes you by the 14th-century Obere Pfarre (Upper Parish Church) (8), considered by many to be Bamberg's finest Gothic structure. Turn right on Judenstrasse and take a look at the Böttinger House (9), one of the finest examples of a private mansion in the Baroque style. Built in 1713, it was the winter residence of the court privy councilor Böttinger, who thought of himself as the supreme ruler of Bamberg — although Prince-Bishop von Schönborn entertained similar notions. Böttinger also had another mansion, this one for summer use, just a stone's throw away on the Regnitz.

Walk along the narrow Concordiastrasse for a block, then turn left and cross the tiny footbridge. In this area there are several old mills that have been converted into homes. An alleyway on the other side leads to the Mühlwörth, with an interesting view of Böttinger's other palace, the Concordia House (10) on the water's edge. Continue on past the locks of the former Ludwig Canal (11) for a short distance, then return and cross the Nonnenbrücke. Along the water, to the left, you can see two interesting old cranes.

The very narrow E.T.A. Hoffmann House (12) on Schillerplatz was the home of that great romantic writer from 1808 to 1813. It was his stories that formed the basis for Offenbach's opera The Tales of Hoffmann. The house may be visited from May-Oct., Tues.-Fri. 4-6 p.m., and on weekends from 10-to noon. €. Now follow the map back to the train station.

Text, map, and B&W photo copyright © 2009 by Earl Steinbicker

 

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Beers and Wines

All throughout this blog there are references to beer and wine, two of the great joys of life. The most significant postings are listed below — just click on their titles to read. Prosit!

Bamberg, Germany: Germany's highest beer consumption, home to a great beer museum, and home to the famous Rauchbier.

Bokrijk, Belgium: The Flemish Open-Air Museum serves real country beers at outdoor tables as horse-drawn wagons go past.

Faversham, England: Tour the famous Shepherd Neame Brewery and sample their "real Ales," then explore the delightfully unpretentious little town not far from London.

Germany's Ammersee & Andechs Beer: Germany's finest is made by monks on a hill south of Munich, and served in their beerhall.

Lüneburg, Germany. Visit the town's old Brauereimuseum, where beer has been brewed since 1485, then enjoy a glass or two of Krone Bier!

McSorley's Old Ale House: New York's oldest Irish pub serves their own ale, and only their own ale, in this East Village landmark.

Northern Burgenland, Austria: The tasty wines of the Neusiedler See district are best appreciated in the delightful village of Rust.

Rüdesheim & Bingen, Germany: Germany's favorite wine village has been pressing the grapes for well over two thousand years. There's even an old castle with a wine museum!

Salzburg, Austria: End your tour at the Stielkeller beerhall overlooking the city, then visit Stiegl's Brauwelt to explore the history of brewing.

Strasburg, Pennsylvania: After a day with the old trains and a visit to the Amish Village, repair to the Twin Brook Winery for some local vintages.  

The Beers of Oji: Celebrating the wonderful beers we devoured while serving in the U.S. Army in Japan during the 1950s.

Vienna's Kahlenberg Heights: End your day in one of the many wine taverns of Grinzing and Heiligenstadt with a glass or two of the local new wine.

Wachau Valley, Austria: Float down the Danube and explore Krems, a gorgeous old wine town with the Weinstadt Museum and a Weingut where you can sample the local vintages.

MORE TO COME AS I DIG THROUGH THE FILES!

 

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The Beers of Oji

  It's been said that an army marches on its stomach. How true. In the case of us ASA guys at Oji Camp in the 1950s those stomachs were often filled with beer, glorious beer. On post, at the EM club (photo, right), we could get the best of European brews for 25 cents a bottle, served with live entertainment. Needless to say, we took full advantage of that bargain. Pictured below are some of the brands they stocked:

 

 

These are labels that I pulled off the wet bottles way back when. A bit ratty from age, but still a nice keepsake. My favorite was San Miguel, which was not European but came from Manila in the Philippines. Years later I also encountered the same brand in Madrid, Spain.I was also fond of Holsten Lager from Hamburg in Germany.

Things were a bit different out on the local Japanese economy, where the following brews were usually served at such places as the Germania, just off the Ginza in downtown Tolkyo:

 

 

And who could forget Sapporo, that tasty brew from frozen Hokkaido? Sadly, I don't have a label for it, just memories.

They were all delicious.

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RÜDESHEIM & BINGEN, GERMANY

My new guidebook, Daytrips in Germany's Rhineland, has been selling fairly well on Amazon, so I'd like to celebrate by offering another free chapter. This one is easy to reach from the Frankfurt area, and will be enjoyed by anyone who loves good wine.

CLICK below to find out more about the book at Amazon.com:

Daytrips in Germany's Rhineland: 25 one day adventures from Frankfurt and other bases throughout all of Germany's Rhineland and beyond

That's the title page on the right. The little map on it shows all of the daytrip destinations.

Trip 5

Rüdesheim & Bingen

Wine lovers will rejoice in a trip to Rüdesheim, Germany's favorite wine village. The vintages have been flowing there for some two thousand years, ever since the Romans settled the area and began growing grapes. You can have a wonderful time sampling the result — some of Germany's (and the world's) best white wines — or in just exploring this delightful town and its surroundings. Whatever you do, you won't be alone. Rüdesheim is very popular with tourists from all over the globe, but you'll be seeing a whole lot more than most of them on this do-it-yourself daytrip.

The suggested tour begins in the neighboring village of Assmannshausen and includes a ride across the Rhine to Bingen for an encounter with Hildegard. If these don't interest you, it is entirely possible to spend the whole day in Rüdesheim and not get bored. Tipsy perhaps, but not bored.

GETTING THERE:

Trains depart Frankfurt's main station for Rüdesheim several times each morning, some from the main level and some from the lower S-Bahn level. In addition, there are trains and buses from Wiesbaden, which is easily reached by S-Bahn commuter trains. The direct trip takes about one hour. Return service operates until mid-evening. Be sure to check the schedules carefully, especially to determine whether the train you want also stops in Assmannshausen. If not, it is only a short distance by bus or taxi from Rüdesheim.

By Car, leave Frankfurt on the A-66 Autobahn and stay on it past Wiesbaden to Eltville. From there take the B-42 road into Rüdesheim, which is about 72 km (45 miles) west of Frankfurt.

PRACTICALITIES:

This trip should be taken between April and the end of October, when all of the attractions are open. Good weather is essential. The Tourist Information Office (Verkehrsamt) for Rüdesheim, T: (06722) 194-33, is at Geisenheimer Strasse 22, east of Hahnenstrasse. In Bingen, they are at Rheinkai 21, T: (06721) 184-205.

FOOD AND DRINK:

There is an extremely wide selection of places to eat and drink in the Rüdesheim area. A few are:

IN ASSMANNSHAUSEN:

Krone (Rheinuferstr. 10, near the train station) An old inn overlooking the Rhine; classic German cuisine. T: (06722) 40-30. €€€

Altes Haus (Lorcherstr. 8, a block northwest of the chair lift lower station) An historic 16th-century inn with good food. T: (06722) 403-50. €€

NEAR THE NIEDERWALD MONUMENT:

Jagdschloss Niederwald (near the top of the chair lift) A ducal hunting lodge featuring traditional wild game and other dishes. T: (06722) 710-60. X: Jan. to Feb. €€€

IN RÜDESHEIM:

Traube-Aumüller (Rheinstr. 6, near the Brömserburg Castle) A good choice in a touristy location. T: (06722) 91-40. X: Dec.-Feb. €€

Zum Bären (Schmidtstr. 24, a block east of the market place) Good-value international and regional cooking. T: (06722) 902-50. €€

Rüdesheimer Schloss (on the Drosselgasse) Local dishes and wines in an 18th-century tavern, with good-value lunches. T: (06722) 90-500. X: Jan.-Feb. € and €€

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Those making the complete tour should begin at the train station in Assmannshausen (1). Follow the map through this romantic old village, whose existence was first documented in 1108. Oddly enough, it is the home of Germany's best red wines. The narrow streets lead past several half-timbered houses and an interesting late-Gothic church to the chair lift (Seilbahn) (2). Purchase a combination ticket to Rüdesheim and be seated for a comfortable ride to the Niederwald. Along the way you will have superb high-level views across the Rhine Valley (photo, above).

Getting off at the top, walk around past the Jagdschloss (3), a former hunting lodge of the dukes of Nassau. It is now a very attractive castle-hotel and restaurant complete with another panoramic vista. From here take a leisurely stroll of about one-half mile or so along a forest road to the Niederwald Denkmal (4) (engraving from 1877, left), one of the most colossal monuments in Germany. A late-19th-century expression of overblown nationalism, its heroic figure of Germania symbolizes the unification of Germany in 1871 and is still deeply revered by the German people — although to foreign eyes it may seem somewhat amusing. The enormous bronze relief depicting military heros surrounding Kaiser Wilhelm I and Bismarck, incidentally, faces France. There is a fabulous view across the Rhine.

Take the nearby cable car (Seilbahn) down across the vineyards to its lower station (5) in Rüdesheim. Make a right on Oberstrasse to the Brömserhof (6), an aristocratic residence dating from 1542. The interior now features a curious exhibition known as Siegfried's Mechanical Music Cabinet, a collection of antique self-playing musical instruments. T: (06722) 492-17. Open March to Dec., daily 10-6. €€.

Nearby is the Mittelalterliches Foltermuseum (Medieval Torture Museum), where you can delight in the imaginative use of torture during the Inquisition and other dark periods of history. Oberstr. 49-51, T: (06722) 475-10. Open April-Nov., daily 10-6. €.

Rüdesheim is world-famous for the Drosselgasse (photo, above), a narrow lane that is usually jam-packed with hundreds of thirsty visitors. You may want to return here later to relax in one of its many colorful wine taverns. Until then, however, there are several other worthwhile sights.

Continue to the bottom and turn left on Rheinstrasse, passing the tourist office. The Marktplatz (Market Place) has an interesting 14th-century parish church. At the eastern end of the Rheinstrasse is the Adlerturm (Eagle's Tower) (7), built in the 15th century as part of the medieval defense fortifications. Return along the bank of the Rhine to the:

*BRÖMSERBURG (8), T: (06722) 23-48. Open mid-March through Oct., daily 10-6, last admission at 5:15. €.

Formerly a refuge for the archbishops of Mainz, this ancient castle (old engraving, above) built on late-Roman foundations between the 11th and 14th centuries now houses the *Rheingau Wine Museum, a must-see for any visitor to Rüdesheim. Displays here cover the entire scope of wine-making — and drinking — down through the ages.

A short stroll along the river brings you to the passenger ferry dock (Personenfähre) (9). From here you can take a quick boat ride to Bingen, just across the Rhine. This was once the home of Hildegard von Bingen, the 12th-century composer whose works have become so popular in recent years.

Leave the Bingen ferry landing (10) and follow the map past the tourist office up to Burg Klopp (11), a heavily rebuilt castle whose origins probably date from the Roman era. There is an exceptionally good view of the Rhine Valley from here. Head downhill on Salzstrasse and turn left on Hindenburganlage to the:

HISTORICAL MUSEUM — HILDEGARD VON BINGEN (12), T: (06721) 990-655. Open Tues.-Sun. 10-5. €.

Bingen's favorite personality, the visionary, scholar, abbess, healer, writer, and composer Hildegard von Bingen, lived from 1098 until 1179; a life filled with remarkable achievement. Her legacy is celebrated in this riverside museum, whose other attractions include a collection of 2nd-century Roman doctor's instruments and a survey of the entire Rhine Romantic epoch.

Return to the ferry dock and Rüdesheim. The train station is just across from the dock, but you will most likely want to enjoy a bit of wine sampling along the Drosselgasse before heading back to Frankfurt.

Text and maps copyright © 2007 by Earl Steinbicker. Color photos courtesy of the Rüdesheim Tourist Office.

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NEW for 2009: The Seventh Edition of Daytrips Germany contains the Rüdesheim trip along with 62 other one-day adventures throughout all of Germany. Check it out at Amazon.com by clicking below, along with these other related offerings:

MY NEW BOOK

DAYTRIPS BAVARIA

My Daytrips Germany book, which went through six editions since 1983, was putting on weight from all that bratwurst und bier — so I decided to divide it into three regional books. The first two of these are now out and available.

These new books are smaller and easier to carry, have more practical information than the previous one, and have all-new, clear, digitally-created local street maps for each and every one of the 23 daytrips — so you can hardly get lost. Also featured are restaurant suggestions, complete travel information, local history and attractions. All of the daytrips can comfortably be made from Munich or other nearby bases, by either rail or car.

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