Life's Little Adventures

Austria's Greatest Alpine Lake

Here's yet another SAMPLE ENTRY from my current app "Innsbruck Travel: the City & the Alps." The complete app for the iPad, iPhone, and iPod Touch may be downloaded at Apple's iTunes App Store. This app takes you to many unusual places within daytrip range of Innsbruck, and within the city itself, along with the popular favorites. It is also available on Google's App Store for download to most Android devices under the name "Innsbruck & the Alps."

Exploring the Achensee

Here's a one-day trip from Innsbruck that's easy to do but packs a lot of alpine experiences into a single passage.

It begins by riding a small 19th-century steam-operated cogwheel train through gorgeous countryside to one of the most fabulous lakes anywhere.

There you ascend by cable car to the top of a 6,000-foot mountain and perhaps take a short trail walk with sweeping vistas, or even try your hand at paragliding.

To finish off a fun-filled day you board a boat for a two-hour cruise to lakeside villages and return, with the opportunity for dinner onboard. After that, it's back the way you came.

The Achensee is the largest lake in the Tirol, with crystal-clear mountain water that's nearly pure enough to drink without treatment. It is sometimes referred to as the "Fjord of the Alps" as it lies at the bottom of a deep valley surrounded by rugged snow-covered peaks.

This complete trip can only be taken between the beginning of May and the end of October, when both the steam train and the boats operate. Otherwise, you could drive or take buses the entire way, but that's not nearly as much fun.

Watch your time carefully so you don't miss the last connection back to Jenbach.

There are numerous places for lunch around Maurach, the upper station of the Rohan cable car, and on board the lake steamer. All serve typical Tyrolean dishes, or just coffee, cakes, and other refreshments.

Trains depart Innsbruck's main station quite frequently for the short ride to Jenbach, which takes no more than 30 minutes. Return service operates until late evening.

By Car, take the A-12 highway 22 miles (35 km) northeast to Jenbach, then north a few blocks on Achenseestrasse and right on Bahnhofstrasse. There you'll find the Achenseebahn station to the right.

TOUR:

Touch photo in upper left. It will then fill the screen and morph into a DIAGRAM MAP. Touch this to remain on screen, and again to exit. NUMBERS on the map correspond to numbers in the text.

[Names in BOLD FACE CAPITAL LETTERS are actually links to separate entries within the app to those attractions. These links do not function on this blog, nor are the photos and additional practical information posted here].

Begin at the Achenseebahn station (1), next to Jenbach's regular train station. Here you purchase a combo ticket valid for the cogwheel train, cable cars, and boats, then board the ancient ACHENSEEBAHN steam train for a 35-minute ride to Maurach.

From the Maurach stop (2) it is only a short walk to the Rofan Seilbahn (3), a cable car that takes you right up to the ROFANSPITZE (4), where you can take an easy hike along the mountain top, engage in the thrilling sport of paragliding, enjoy the view from the Eagle's Nest, or just have lunch at one of several mountain inns.

Returning to the valley, either re-board the cog train or walk to Seespitz (5), the lakeside terminus of the rail line. Here you board a lake steamer for the one-hour ACHENSEE CRUISE to Scholastica (6), and another one-hour ride back to Seespitz, followed by the steam train back to Jenbach. Meals are available on board the boats.

NEARBY SITE:

SCHLOSS TRATZBERG (7) lies a short ride west of Jenbach. Dating from at least 1149 and presented in a fairytale manner, this is one of the best-preserved medieval castles in Austria.

CONTINUE on to "Life's Little Adventures" for MORE free chapters!

Exploring Provins: a Day Trip from Paris

This is a SAMPLE ENTRY from my current app "Paris Travel: the City & Great Day Trips." The complete app for the iPad, iPhone, and iPod Touch may be downloaded at Apple's iTunes App Store. This app takes you to many unusual places within daytrip range of Paris, along with the popular favorites. It is also available on Google's App Store for download to most Android devices under the name "Paris Day Trips Travel Guide."

 

A Distant Echo of a Bygone Age

Another one of those intriguing medieval towns that somehow get overlooked, Provins can be a real charmer. Once the third-largest city in France (after Paris and Rouen), it is now a pleasant backwater with distant echoes of a long-ago past.

This is a place for quiet contemplation far from the madding crowds, where vestiges of the early Middle Ages have survived intact.

The town's decline began as early as the 13th century. Before that, Provins was the capital of Brie, seat of the Counts of Champagne, and the site of major fairs famed throughout Europe.

It has a curious connection with English history. During the 13th century it was ruled by Edmund, Duke of Lancaster, who adopted as his own the famous red rose of Provins — later to become a symbol in the War of the Roses. Both the plague and the Hundred Years War took their toll, but it was the growing importance of nearby Paris that contributed most to the downfall of this once-great city.

Provins is built on two levels. The lower town (Ville Basse) is reawakening with renewed prosperity, while the upper town (Ville Haute), perched high on a promontory overlooking the Brie plain, slumbers on amid ruined memories. Both have their fascinations, and both are covered on the suggested walking tour.

Trains depart Gare de l'Est station in Paris hourly for the 80-minute ride to Provins. Return service operates until early evening.

By Car, leave Paris on the A4 highway, switching quickly to the N4, then finally the D231 south into Provins. The total distance is about 85 km (53 miles) southeast of Paris.

Good weather is essntial for this largely outdoor trip. The famous Tour de César is open every day except Christmas and New Year's, but some of the other attractions tend to operate on weekends only, except on summer school holidays, when they are open daily.

The Tourist Office offers a "passport" valid for all four sites, which saves a few euros and gives discounts on other attractions such as weekend medieval reenactments.

Provins offers a nice variety of restaurants along the walking route. Some suggestions are:

AU VIEUX REMPARTS

RESTAURANT ROSALIE

TOUR:

Touch photo in upper left. It will then fill the screen and morph into a DIAGRAM MAP. Touch that to remain on screen, THEN slide a finger from right to left to see more photos. Touch in upper left to return to text. Numbers on the map correspond to numbers in the text.

[Names in BOLD FACE CAPITAL LETTERS are actually links to separate entries within the app to those attractions. These links do not function on this blog, nor are the photos and additional practical information posted here].

Leaving the train staion (1), turn left on Ave. Jean Jaurés, then right across a stream and onto Rue Aristide Briand. Crossing another stream bear left on Rue Fourtier Masson and head straight ahead to the upper town, ascending by a curving street and some steps. The climb is rather steep, but manageable and highly worthwhile. One there, step into the Jardin des Brébans for a nice view, then stroll over to the TOUR DE CÉSAR (2).

The Church of St.-Quiriance (3), equally ancient, is just a few steps away. Originally planned to be much larger, its choir, apse, and transepts were the only parts completed before the days of prosperity ran out for Provins. Its interior is quite impressive, and should not be missed if the door is open.

Stroll over to the MAISON ROMANE (4) on Rue du Palais.

Continue up past Place du Châtel to the GRANGE AUX DÎMES (5).

Now follow Rue de Jouy to the Porte de Jouy (6), a medieval gate in the still-extant town walls. Turn right and follow the inside of the ramparts for a short distance, then return and pass through the gate. A country lane leads to the left along the massive fortifications.

Re-enter the town through the 12th-century Porte St.-Jean (7), another fortified gate, and return on Rue St.-Jean to Place du Châtel. From here walk downhill to the HÔTEL DIEU (8).

You have now returned to the lower town. Stroll along Rue du Val and Rue de la Cordonnerie to the Church of St.-Ayoul (9), once the center of a cult around which the Ville Basse developed. Destroyed by fire in the 12th century, the church was soon rebuilt and features some truly outstanding sculptures along with other works of art. Presently closed for restoration.

From here it is a short walk back to the station.

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Exploring the Zirbenweg

Spending the Day Above the Clouds

Glorious mountains are what the Tirol is all about, and it is to this Zirbenweg Mountain Walk that you should head for a wonderful odyssey into a remarkable land. This day trip from Innsbruck is a relatively easy ramble across a fantastic landscape far above the cares of the ordinary world, winding up in the splendid old town of Hall.

Along the way you will pass some sites of the 1964 and 1976 Winter Olympics, ride a cable car to the top of a mountain, walk for over two hours along a gentle path with spectacular vistas, have lunch at a rustic alpine inn, descend on a chairlift, stroll through unspoiled countryside, cross the Inn river on a covered wooden bridge and, finally, explore one of the most charming little towns that Austria has to offer.

If you love the out-of-doors but have been a bit hesitant about just marching off into the Alps by yourself, this pleasant excursion may well be the most memorable highlight of your visit to the Tirol.

For a DIAGRAM MAP of this trip's routes, touch the photo at the top left of the screen. It will momentarily fill the screen, then the first part of the DIAGRAM will appear. Quickly touch that and it will remain on screen for you to examine. Move your finger from right to left on the screen to see more of the map. NUMBERS on the map correspond to numbers in the text.

From Innsbruck, take either tram 6 or bus J to the suburb of Igls and walk a short distance to the base station of the cable car, marked Patscherkofel Seilbahn. It is also possible to take a taxi there. You will be returning to Innsbruck by a completely different route, so do not drive to Igls unless you want to skip Hall and take a bus from Tulfes back to Igls.

A clear, warm day between May and late September is essential for enjoyment of this trip. Since you will be walking at an altitude of nearly 7,000 feet, you can expect it to be a great deal cooler along the trail than it was in Innsbruck. You may, in fact, encounter a little leftover snow, even in August. The trip may be taken any dayt of the week, although the cable cars can be a bit crowded on Sundays.

A jacket or sweater is absolutely necessary on this trip, even if it is 90°F in the shade in town. You won't be sorry if you bring both. A folding umbrella could be helpful should the weather change. Comfortable walking shoes are also required, although mountain boots are not necessary as the trail is well surfaced.

The total hiking distance is about 8 miles (13 km), level all the way. Nearly half of this can be eliminated by taking a bus on the last leg.

Names in BOLD FACE CAPITAL LETTERS are actually links to separate entries for those attractions. Those links are internal on the app and do not function on this blog.

Places to eat include:

PANORAMA RESTAURANT

GLUNGEZERHÜTTE

ALPENGASTHOF HALSMARTER

TULFERHÜTTE

TOUR:

From the front of Innsbruck's main train station (Hauptbahnhof) (1) take the #6 tram, which departs hourly; OR from Innsbruck's Marktplatz or Lanjdesmuseum take the J bus. Either will take you to the resort village of Igls. Although this route may seem short on the map, it is very steep and not really suitable for walking. You will pass various Olympic installations along the way, notably the ice stadium and ski jumps.

Once in Igls, walk uphill to the lower station of the Patscherkofel Cable Car (2), purchase a one-way ticket (Bergfahrt) to the top and board the large cable car. As it ascends the mountain, keep a lookout on the left for the spectacular Olympic bobsled run. Just beyond this, at Heiligwasser, you disembark and change to another cable car that takes you to the Panorama Restaurant (3) at Patscherkofel, the starting point of the walk.

You are now at an altitude of 6,435 feet. Follow the footpath marked Zirbenweg to the left in the direction of Tulfeinalm and Glungezer Witte. This section of the trail is identified as path #32, although the number changes later.

The total walk to the first destination, Tulfeinalm (4), will take a little over two hours. Distances on alpine trails are commonly marked in terms of time rather than linear measurement; thus 2½ Std. (stunde) refers to hours, not kilometers. A good walker will probably do betterr than the indicated time.

The relatively level trail continues along the ridge of a high mountain with glorious panoramic views up and down the Inn Valley. Cows and goasts, their clanging bells filling the air with music, can be seen grazing along the path.

Presently you will reach a fork at which path #32 is marked for Meissner Haus. Rather than take this, remain on the Zirbenweg, which bears left and is shown as path #48. Gradually the trail enters a lovely pine forest still sheltering — in shaded spots — some patches of last winter's snow, even in the height of summer.

All along the walk you will meet other hikers who, if they are Austrian (as most are), will greet you with a friendly Grüss Gott, meaning "good day" in the local dialect. Just smile and try to repeat the phrase back to them.

Still in the forest, a branch trail leads off to both sides. Avoid the one marked to Glungezer Hütte and stay on the Zirbenweg, following the signs to Tulfeinalm.

From here the trail no longer has a number, path #48 having turned down the mountain. Soon it crosses the tiny Lavierenbach brook. The first leg of your trip is almost over now. 

In only a few yards you will come to the Tulfeinalm (4) where a rustic climbers' hut offers heart food at reasonable prices. You can either eat here or at another similar place halfway down the mountain.

On a small mound a few yards from the hut is the upper station of the Glungezer Sesselbahn. Buy a one-way ticket to Tulfes, seat yourself as gracefully as possible on the moving chairlift, and descend to the midway station, Halsmarter.

The ride is surprisingly enjoyable and not in the least bit scary. Still, if you don't care for chairlifts, there is a dirt road paralleling it all the way down which can easily be walked.

Getting off at Halsmarter (5), you will find another hut with good food and, delightfully, an outdoor café at which to relax and enjoy the sun-filled view.

Continue on the second stahe of the chairlift all the way to Tulfes (6). In the center of that village there is a bus stop (Haltstelle) from which you can get a ride to Hall-in-Tirol. A schedule is posted at thge chairlift stations. It is, however, far more interesting to walk the few miles.

Follow the road downhill and, just before the first big bend to the left, turn right onto a path marked Fussweg noch Hall. This trail will again cross the main road. If you are really worn out by now take the paved road to the right. Otherwise, continue on the path, which goes a bit uphill, then down to the river.

Along the way the trail sometimes becomes a dirt road, even paved at points, goes through farms, forests, and crosses a fence. The first tiny settlement is called Gasteig. At the next one, Taschenlehen, be on the lookout for a path with a well-hidden sign marked for Hall. This is just before a short row of houses. It will lead you down under the Autobahn and onto a covered wooden pedestrian bridge (7) crossing the Inn River.

Emerging from the far end of this unusual span, you are now in Hall-in-Tirol, sometimes known as Solbad Hall, the final destination and one of the loveliest towns in Austria. Continue straight ahead on Münzergasse to BURG HASEGG (8), an old castle from the Middle Ages. (Touch for link to separate entry).

In former days Hall was a very wealthy place, its prosperity derived from the salt mines and river navigation. It was also a notorious pleasure center for those wishing to escape the rigid life of Innsbruck. A short stroll will take you to Unterer Stadtplatz. From here the Scheighofstiege steps lead to Eugenstrasse, at which you turn right to the Damenstift (9), a ladies' abbey founded in 1567. Walk through the Stiftsplatz and make a left onto Rodengasse.

Just a few steps farther and you are in the marvelously picturesque Oberer Stadtplatz (10), a scene right out of a child's fairytale. The 13th-century parish church of St. Nikolaus, dominating the square, is a visual fantasy. Opposite it is the 16th-century town hall (Rathaus), in front of which is a convenient outdoor café, the perfect spot at which to end your day's ramblings. 

Head down Langer Graben at the rear of the church and return to Unterer Stadtplatz. From here you can take a bus for the short trip back to Innsbruck. If you'd rather take the none-too-frequent local train, the station (Bahnhof) (11) is just a few blocks away.

To see the rest of this and other trips download the entire Innsbruck Travel app onto your iPad, iPhone, or iPod Touch at Apple's iTunes app store. Owners of Android devices can download it as Innsbruck & the Alps at Google's app store.

Exploring the Wachau

This is a sample entry from my current app Vienna Travel: the City & Great Day Trips. The complete app for the iPad, iPhone, and iPod Touch may be downloaded Free at Apple's iTunes App Store. It is also available for $2.99 on Google Play for Android devices, where it is known as Vienna & Beyond Travel Guide. This app takes you to many unusual places within daytrip range of Vienna, along with the popular favorites.

Names in BOLD FACE CAPITAL LETTERS are actually links to separate entries for those attractions, which are not included on this blog. They are not functional on this blog entry, nor are all of the photos and maps included.

 

A Leisurely One-Day Trip Down the Danube

The Danube may not be blue but it certainly is beautiful, especially in the mountainous section near Vienna known as the Wachau.

For thousands of years this liquid highway has seen the migrations of numerous peoples who have left behind a treasury of historic sites. A cruise along its spectacular scenery is a journey through European history. Abbeys and castles, vineyards and farmlands dot the Danube's banks as it cuts a nearly 1,800-mile-long path from the Black Forest to the Black Sea. By using a combination of trains and boat visitors to Vienna can leisurely explore one of its most magnificent lengths in a single day — and still be back in the capital in time for dinner. This is truly an excursion you won't soon forget.

Trains depart Vienna's Westbahnhof several times in the morning for Melk, a ride of about an hour. Some may require a change at St. Pölten. Returning after the boat ride, there are hourly trains from Dürnstein to Krems, and trains from Krems to Vienna's Franz-Josefs-Bahnhof. If this station is out of the way for you, you can get off at Heiligenstadt instead, and there transfer to a subway to the center of town. Check current schedules at oebb.at.

Boats operated by the DDSG line depart Melk at 11 a.m. or 1:30 p.m. for the cruise downstream to Dürnstein or Krems. Get current information online at ddsg-blue-danube.at.

A bargain Kombi-Ticket is available that covers the train and boat, as well as the Abbey of Melk and a museum in Krems. This can be purchased at the ticket windows in the Vienna Westbahnhof or from major tourist information offices. More information at ddsg-blue-danube.at.

By Car, you will have to forego the boat ride and drive from Melk to Dürnstein and/or Krems instead. Take the A-1 Autobahn west from Vienna to Melk, then cross the river nearby at Emmersdorf and take the B-3 road along the north bank of the Danube to Dürnstein and Krems. The same road continues back to Vienna. The total round trip is about 112 miles (180 km).

This trip requires good weather, and should be taken between April and October, when the boats operate and the abbey is open. Boats on this route operate from late April through late September, and with limited service from early to late April and late September to early November.

Visits to the Abbey at Melk are by advance reservation tours only from about November until mid-March, but open the rest of the year without reservations (although these are still recommended for guided tours).

Recommended restaurants on this route are:

TOM'S MELK

STIFTSRESTAURANT

ALTE POST

RATHAUSKELLER

To see DIAGRAM MAPS of this tour just touch the photo in the upper left. It will then fill the screen and morph into an area map. Touch that to keep it on the screen. Touch again for a map of Melk, THEN slide a finger from right to left for more photos. Touch in upper left to return to text. NUMBERS on the DIAGRAM MAPS correspond to numbers in the text.

Attractions mentioned in BOLD CAPITAL letters have their own entries with complete details. Touch to open.

Begin at the train station in Melk (1), then walk down Bahnhofstrasse to Kirchplatz, which has a fine 15th-century parish church. From here the narrow Kirchengasse leads through buildings to the main street, Hauptstrasse. Turn right and stroll through Rathausplatz (2), then climb Stiftsweg to the famous MELK ABBEY (3).

Return via Stiftsweg to Rathausplatz with its 16th-century Town Hall. From here the medieval Sterngasse, the oldest street in Melk, winds its way over to Hauptplatz (4). All along this route you will pass many fine old buildings, some dating from the 16th century.

At Felserweg make a right and continue to the waterfront, once the Danube itself but now just an arm of the great river. Turning right, go past the little bridge and the base of the abbey to the Pier (Lokal Schiffstation) (5) from which you board the boat for either Dürnstein or Krems.

The boat takes a leisurely 80 minutes to cover the 17-mile stretch to Dürnstein, making one stop along the way. Sleepy villages and gentle vineyards line the river's banks as the ruins of ancient castles on the hills remind us of the days when the Danube was the favorite route of marauding Eastern hordes. Evidence of man's earliest existence in these parts was found in Willendorf in the form of a tiny Venus statuette, which dates back to at least 20,000 B.C.  and is now displayed at the Natural History Museum in Vienna.

After a sharp bend in the river the boat arrives at Dürnstein, probably the prettiest little town on the Danube. Leaving the pier (6), climb the steep path inside a tunnel and turn left on Haupstrasse. At its end is an early-17th-century castle, now an elegant hotel. Beyond this, to the right, are remains of the Bürgerturm (7) and walls leading up to the ancient castle atop the hill. These date from at least the 12th century. Note how the main road along the north bank of the Danube tunnels under Dürnstein at this point, exiting at the other end of town near the train station. The railroad tracks take a similar route. These arrangements do much to preserve the tranquility of the old town by avoiding through traffic.

Return along the charming Hauptstrasse to the late-Gothic Town Hall (Rathaus) (8), which has a tourist information office, and turn right. A few steps down, on the right, is the entrance to the CHORHERRENSTIFT (9).

Leaving the monastery, return to Hauptstrasse and turn right. Just before the town gate make a left into the picturesque old cemetery (10) with its interesting 14th-century charnel house and Gothic church. Now pass through the Kremser Tor (11) gate and turn left. The street leads up the hill past houses and vineyards. At its end a path continues, following the old town walls, to the ruins of Dürnstein Castle (Kuenringerburg) (12).

It was here, in 1192-93 that King Richard the Lionhearted of England was held prisoner by the Duke of Babenburg following his return from the Third Crusade. While still in Palestein the proud king had insulted the duke's honor and upon returning to the Continent was captured near Vienna. According to popular legend his whereabouts were discovered by his faithful troubadur, Blondel, who wandered through the Wachau Valley singing songs that could only be known by an Englishman. At Dürnstein Castle Blondel heard a second stanza of the same song coming from within the walls, thus revealing the place of captivity. An enormous ransom was negotiated and King Richard moved to another castle in the German Rhineland before being set free.

After exploring the ruins, return via the well-worn woodland path that follows the town side of the walls. This brings you back on Hauptstrasse. Checking the time against the train schedule, you may find that you have a half-hour or so left before departure, in which case a visit to one of the wine gardens would be a pleasant way to end your day in Dürnstein. Then follow Hauptstrasse through the gate and stroll down past the intersection with the main road. Just beyond here, to the left, is the Train Station (Bahnhof) (13). Take the train to Krems and either change there to a connecting train for Vienna or, if time permits, explore this delightful old wine town.

Krems an der Donau, to use its full name, is a gorgeous town filled with Baroque and Renaissance treasures. It is joined to the neighboring village of Stein by a tiny settlement called Und, giving rise to the local saying that Krems Und Stein sind drei Städte, a puzzling statement that translates to "Krems and Stein are three towns." You can ponder this while sampling some of the local wines, produced here since time immemorial.

Walk straight ahead from the train station (14) and turn left onto Untere Landstrasse, in the heart of a pedestrian zone. Above this is Pfarrplatz and the Baroque St. Veit Church, behind which stands the 15th-century Piaristenkirche with its Gothic vaulting and Baroque interior. The Weinstadt Museum (15) has displays on local wine making and the local wine trade.

Now find your way back to the train station and board the next train to Vienna.

The entry on the actual app "Vienna: the City & Great Day Trips" contains more photos, maps, and entries for major attractions, along with eleven more daytrip destinations in and around Vienna. Download it Free to your iPad, iPhone, or iPod Touch at Apple's iTunes App Store. It is also available as "Vienna & Beyond Travel Guide" at $2.99 for Android devices at Google's App Play Store. 

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Exploring Moret-sur-Loing — An Easy Daytrip From Paris

This is a sample partial entry from my current app Paris Travel: the City & Great Daytrips. The complete app for the iPad and iPhone may be downloaded Free at Apple's iTunes store. This app takes you to many unusual places within daytrip range of Paris, along with the popular favorites.

Names in BOLD FACE CAPITAL LETTERS are actually links to separate entries for those attractions.

One of the Most Beautiful Villages in all France

Although it has long been a favorite weekend retreat for Parisians, Moret-sur-Loing has yet to be discovered by foreign visitors. This deliciously picturesque old town on the meandering Loing River looks like a scene from an Impressionist peinting, and in fact is one. The noted artist Alfred Sisley spent the latter days of his life here, immortalizing for all time its narrow streets, quaint church, delightful bridge, and charming watermills.

Moret was a strategically important fortress as early as the 12th century, when it protected the Île-de-France from the Counts of Champagne. Many of its original structures still exist, preserved amid a medieval atmosphere virtually unmatched elsewhere in the region. 

A trip to Moret can be combined quite easily with one to Fontainebleau, just 10 km (6 miles) away on the same rail line. If you are driving, you could visit Vaux-le-Vicomte, a fabulous château just outside Melun, instead.

Those going to Moret only will find that it makes a good afternoon trip.

Trains leave Gare de Lyon station in Paris hourly for Moret-Véneux-les-Sablons, usually stopping at Fontainebleau en route. The trip takes less than one hour. Return service operates until mid-evening. Although Moret is a very small town, it is also an important rail junction, with trains to and from Paris using different, widely-spaced platforms. Be careful to note the correct one on the departure board.

By Car, take the A6 highway to the Fontainebleau exit, then the N6 into Moret, which lies about 74 km (46 miles) southeast of Paris.

Moret can be enjoyed at any time in good weather, particularly on weekends. Son et Lumiére spectacles are held on Saturday nights from mid-June through September.

Moret is in the Département of Seine-et-Marne, and has a population of about 4,500.

Some restaurant choices:

RELAIS DE PONT-LOUP

AUBERGE DE LA TERRASSE

HOSTELLERIE DE CHEVAL NOIR

TOUR:

Touch photo in upper left. It will then fill the screen and morph into a DIAGRAM MAP. Touch that to remain on screen, THEN slide a finger from right to left to see more photos. Touch in upper left to return to text. Numbers on the map correspond to number in the text.

 The Moret-Véneux-les-Sablons Train Station (1) is nearly a mile from the town proper. You could call for a taxi, although the walk is rather pleasant.

Enter the Old Town through the 12th-century Porte de Samois gate (2), near the tourist office. Continue down Rue Grande where, at number 24, opposite the war memorial park, you will pass the house where Napoleon spent the last night on his return from Elba.

Here stands the so-called Maison François I (3), a splendid Renaissance façade built in 1527 and later moved, stone-by-stone, to Paris where it remained until 1956. It was then returned to Moret.

Back on Rue Grande there are two fine Renaissance houses at numbers 28 and 30.

Stroll straight ahead through the venerable 12th-century Porte de Bourgogne gate (4). From here a famous bridge spans the Loing River. Midstream, on either side, are two striking old mills, now private residences. 

Once across, make a left into the park (5) on the river's edge, where you can enjoy the romantic view captured in Sisley's renowned painting, The Bridge at Moret, displayed in the Orsay Museum in Paris.

From here it's just a short stroll down Route de Saint-Mammès to Moret's intriguing BICYCLE MUSEUM (6).

There's more...

To see the rest of the trip, take a Free download of the entire Paris Travel app on your iPad or iPhone at Apple's iTunes store. Here are all the places it can take you to: 

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Free Travel APP

Have an iPad? iPhone? iPodTouch? Like to travel? 

Well, here's a great FREE app to download that can open a new world of travel possibilities and inspiration! Check it out!

http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/sutro-world/id446206531?mt=8

 

Yes, I'm on it a little bit, but so are two hundred other travel writers.

Not only is this the very best source of reliable travel apps anywhere, but soon this little fella's joining in the fun as well.

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Paris Day Trips

At long last: My travel app for easy one-day trips to intriguing destinations both inside and outside of Paris is available for download to Apple iPad, iPhone, and iPodTouch devices — and soon it will also be ready for Android devices as well.

"...The Île de France has no regional unity, it does not offer any precise boundaries..." This undefined region within easy daytrip range of Paris is truly the heart of France. Its best attractions are fully explored on my Paris Travel: the City & Great Day Trips app. Click for more information, and how to get a FREE download.

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Warwick, England

 Here's a sample chapter from my new 2011 Daytrips from London guidebook, available now.

Trip 29

Warwick

A Daytrip from London

Many visitors go to see the magnificent castle at Warwick but completely overlook the town itself. That's a pity, because this is surely one of the least spoiled places in England. Small and compact, it has a wonderful blend of Tudor and Georgian architecture, a splendid church, marvelous gardens, and several fine museums.

Warwick grew up around its castle, whose origins date back to a fortification built here in 914 by Ethelfleda, daughter of Alfred the Great, to protect her kingdom of Mercia. Nothing of this remains, but there are still traces of the motte built by William the Conqueror in 1068. The castle you see today is largely of 14th-century construction with great modifications made down through the years to convert the interior into a luxurious home. Sold to Madame Tussaud's in 1978, it is now a showcase combining medieval elements with those of a more recent stately home, and outfitted with the inevitable wax figures.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains depart London's Marylebone Station on Chiltern Railways frequently for Warwick Town Station (not Warwick Parkway Station), a trip of about 90 minutes. Good return service operates until mid-evening, after that it is infrequent and slow. Service is reduced on Sundays and holidays.

By Car, Warwick is 96 miles northwest of London via the M40 to Junction 15, then the A429.

PRACTICALITIES:

The castle is open every day except Christmas Day, but some of the other sights are closed on Sundays or Mondays. The local Tourist Information Centre, T: (01926) 492-212, W: visitwarwick.co.uk, is in the Court House on Jury Street. Markets are held on Saturdays, and a farmers’ market on the 3rd Friday of each month. Warwick is the county town of Warwickshire, and has a population of about 22,000.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

    Some choice places for lunch are:

     Rose and Crown (30 Market Place). An upmarket dining pub with superb modern cuisine, voted one of the best pubs in England. T: (01926) 411-117, W: roseandcrownwarwick.co.uk. Open daily from 8 a.m. on. £, ££, and £££

    Tudor House Inn (92 West St., beyond Lord Leycester Hospital) Traditional, simple English dishes in a 15th-century inn. T: (01926) 495-447, W: thetudorhousewarwick.co.uk. ££

    Piccolinos (31 Smith St., west of St. John's House) Italian, specializing in chicken and fish dishes for over two decades. T: (01926) 491-020, W: ilpiccolinos.co.uk. £ and ££

    Catalan (6 Jury St.) Mediterranean cuisine, especially noted for tapas. T: (01926) 498-930, W: cafecatalan.com. X: Sun. £ and ££

    Tilted Wig (11 Market Place, near the County Museum) A popular pub with a variety of English, International, and vegetarian dishes. T: (01926) 411-534, W: the tiltedwig.co.uk. £ and ££

    There are also two eateries and a snack bar at the castle. Picnicking is permitted on the grounds.

 
Click on map to enlarge 

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leave the train station (1) and follow the map to:

 *WARWICK CASTLE (2), T: (01926) 406-600, W: warwick-castle.co.uk. Open daily except Christmas Day, 10-6, closing at 5 from Oct.-March. Last admission is half an hour before closing. Admission not including dungeon: Adults £17.95, seniors £11.95, children £10. Advance online purchases save 20%. With dungeon £25.45, £19.45, £17.50 respectively. Special events. Gift shop. Restaurants. Café. Picnic area.

Warwick Castle as painted by Canaletto in 1752 

Considered by many to be the finest medieval castle in England, it will easily take two or three hours to explore. Everything is well marked and explained. The main attractions include the Barbican and Gatehouse, a 14th-century complex featuring an exhibition on the life of Richard III; the Armoury with its superb collection of weapons; and the Dungeon and Torture Chamber, which has fascinating (if grisly) displays of medieval torture instruments. Beyond this, Guy's Tower may be climbed and the ramparts walked. The Ghost Tower is allegedly haunted by a 17th-century apparition. A major attraction — “Kingmaker — A Preparation for Battle” — brings to life the sights and sounds of 1471 as the Earl of Warwick readies his army for combat. More Victorian in character, the *State Apartments make a gorgeous show of baronial splendor. Next to them is the Royal Weekend, a re-creation of a turn-of-the-century house party enlivened with wax figures of famous nobility.

Beyond the castle are lovely gardens created by “Capability” Brown in the 18th century. Peacocks roam about the trees, some of which were planted by such luminaries as Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. Cross the bridge over the River Avon to an island (3) that has wonderful views of the south face. Also facing the river is the Mill & Engine House. This medieval watermill was converted to generate electricity for the castle as early as 1894 – quite an innovation at the time, and one that is thoroughly explained to visitors.

The Conservatory (4) is a fantasy recalling the spirit of Georgian times.

Leave the Castle and return to Castle Hill. A short walk down Mill Street takes you to the lovely Mill Gardens (5), a treat for gardeners everywhere. T: (01926) 492-877. Open daily Apr.-Oct., 9-6. £1.50.

Now follow the map to Oken's House at the bottom of Mill Lane, an Elizabethan dwelling that survived the devastating fire of 1694. It now houses an utterly delightful tea room, the perfect spot for a break. W: thomasokentearooms.com. 

Continue up Castle Street and make a left on High Street to the Lord Leycester Hospital (6), (photo on right), a group of picturesque 14th-century almshouses that have been used since the 16th century as a retirement home for old soldiers. One of these gentlemen will be happy to show you around, and then you can visit the restored 16th-century Master’s Garden. T: (01926) 491-422, W: lordleycester.com. 

Walk down Brook Street to the Warwickshire Museum (7) in the Market Place. Displays here cover archaeology, natural history, and local bygones in addition to changing exhibitions. T: (01926) 412-500. Open Tues.-Sat. 10-5; and also Sun. from Apr.-Sept., 11:30-5. Free.

St. Mary's Church (8), nearby, has parts dating from the 12th century, although it was largely rebuilt after the 1694 fire. Its 15th-century *Beauchamp Chapel is incomparable, and its tower can be climbed for a nice view of Warwickshire. T: (01926) 403-940, W: stmaryswarwick.org.uk. Open daily 10-6, closing at 4 in winter. Free. Tower open daily in summer, weather permitting, nominal charge.

Jury Street leads past the East Gate, a relic of the old town wall, and as Smith Street to St. John's House (9). This beautiful 17th-century mansion is now a museum featuring period reconstructions of a parlor, a kitchen, and a Victorian classroom, along with costumes and musical instruments. There is a regimental military exhibition on the floor above. T: (01926) 412-132. Open Tues.-Sat. and Bank Holiday Mon., 10-5; and also on Sun. from Apr.-Sept., 2:30-5. Free. 

A short walk in the garden completes your tour before returning to the nearby train station.

Text and map copyright © 2010 by Earl Steinbicker

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Guildford, England

These pages are taken from my newest guidebook, Daytrips From London, which outlines 47 one-day adventures by rail or car in Southern England — each complete with a walking tour map.

Trip 14

Guildford

Dating back at least a thousand years, Guildford is an unusually attractive old town with a rich architectural heritage. The Saxons named it Gyldeford — the ford of the golden flowers — after its strategic position on the River Wey. A Norman castle was built here, which remained a favorite royal residence for centuries. During medieval times Guildford became the county town of Surrey, a status it still holds. Throughout the Middle Ages the peaceful and prosperous town boasted a thriving woolen industry that died out in the 17th century, only to be replaced by another source of wealth, the shipping of goods by barge along its newly navigable river.

Guildford today is a remarkable blend of past and present. While it has done a good job of preserving the old, it also has some first-rate modern structures. The town is particularly rich in parks, gardens, and open spaces.

GETTING  THERE:

   Trains to Guildford leave London's Waterloo Station at least every half-hour, with a journey time of well under an hour. Return service operates until late evening.

    By Car, Guildford is 33 miles southwest of London via the A3 road.

PRACTICALITIES:

    Guildford may be visited at any time, but note that the museums are closed on Sundays, and the castle is closed from October through March. The local Tourist Information Centre, T: (01483) 444-333, W: Guildford.gov.uk, is at 14 Tunsgate, between the castle and the Guildhall. Guildford is the county seat of Surrey, and has a population of about 66,000.

FOOD  AND DRINK:

    Some of the better restaurants and pubs are:

    Café de Paris (35 Castle St., near the castle) Exceptional French cuisine in a combined bistro and restaurant. T: (01483) 534-896. X: Sun. £££

    The Gate (3 Milkhouse Gate, a block south of Guildford House) Contemporary Mediterranean cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere. T: (01483) 576-300. X: Sun. ££ and £££

    Rumwong (16 London Rd., 2 blocks northeast of the Royal Grammar School) The tasty cuisine of Thailand in a colorful restaurant. T: (01483) 536-092. ££ and £££

    The Weyside (Millbrook, near the boathouse) A riverside pub with garden seating and homemade pub food. T: (01483) 568-024. £ and ££

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

    Leaving the train station (1), follow Park Street and Millmead to the River Wey, which was converted into a navigable waterway as early as 1653. Through a series of canals and locks it is joined with the Thames to the north, and a one time was open all the way to the south coast. Now owned by the National Trust, the Wey Navigation is very popular with pleasure boaters, who have replaced the commercial barges of old.

    Cross the footbridge to Millmead Lock. From here you can stroll along the water past the Guildford Boathouse (2), which offers river cruises, boat rentals, and a cruising restaurant.  To reach it, use the footbridge and return via Millbrook. Cruises Easter through Oct., narrow boats all year. Daily, 9-5. Evening cruises to 10. Rates vary from ££ to ££££ for adults, less for children, depending on length of cruise and food service. Row boat rentals. T: (01483) 504-494, W: guildfordboats.co.uk.

    The Yvonne Arnaud Theatre (3), delightfully located by Millmead Lock, is a modern circular structure that often previews productions before they open in London's West End. Its restaurant and café overlook the river. T:(01483) 440-000, W: Yvonne-arnaud.co.uk. Just beyond is the town mill, built over a millrace and now used as a scenery workshop for the theater.

   Cross Millbrook and follow Mill Lane to St. Mary's Church (4), the oldest building in Guildford. Its Saxon tower dates from about 1050, with the rest being completed by the 13th century.

  Continuing along Quarry Street, take a look down Rosemary Alley, a steep medieval path to the river. Just beyond it is the Guildford Museum (5), which has exhibits of local archaeology and history as well as items connected with Lewis Carroll, author of Alice in Wonderland, who spent a great deal of his time in Guildford. T:(01483) 444-750, W: guildford.gov.uk. Open Mon.-Sat. 11-5. Free.

    Pass through the adjacent Castle Arch, dating from 1265. To the right, on Castle Hill, is a private house called The Chestnuts that was leased by Lewis Carroll as a home for his six spinster sisters. This is where he died in 1898.

      A path leads up to the Castle Keep (6). Built in 1170 on an earlier mound, it's all that remains of the great Norman castle that was once a favorite royal residence until it fell into neglect in the 15th century. Later used as a jail, the keep offers a marvelous view from the top. T:(01483) 444-718, W: guildford.gov.uk. Open April-Sept., daily 10-5, Oct. & March, Sat.-Sun. 11-4. Closed Jan.-Feb. and Nov.-Dec. Adults £2.60, seniors and children £1.30. Grounds open all year, free.

    Leave the grounds and follow the map to Milk House Gate, a quaint narrow passageway just before the multi-story parking facility. This leads to High Street, across which to the left is the Guildhall (7) with its protruding clock, easily the most photographed sight in Guildford. Its dramatic façade was erected in 1683, but the main structure is Elizabethan. Ask about the free guided tours on Tuesday and Thursday at 2 and 3. T: (01483) 444-750.

      Head up High Street to the Guildford House (8) at number 155. Used for art exhibitions, it was built in 1660 and is noted for its beautifully molded plaster ceilings and carved wooden staircases. T: (01483) 444-740, W: guildfordhouse.co.uk. Open Tues.-Sat. 10-4:45. Café. Shop.

    Just beyond stands Abbot's Hospital (9), or Hospital of the Blessed Trinity, an old almshouse with an interesting history. It was founded in 1619 by George Abbot, a poor local boy who was given a free education by the town. He rose to become the Archbishop of Canterbury and repaid the people of Guildford by building this home for their elderly poor, which is still used for that purpose. A guided tour of its splendid interior is available at stated times or by appointment. T: (01483) 455-591, W: abbotshospital.org.

    The Royal Grammar School (10) is a little farther up High Street. Its modern buildings are on the left side, but those on the right date from 1586. Enter the old courtyard and look around. Visitors are occasionally admitted to the library, which contains priceless old chained books.

    Return down High Street, passing Holy Trinity Church on the left. This Classical building was erected in 1763 on the site of the medieval church that collapsed in 1740. It was used as a cathedral from 1927 to 1961. Another classical structure, the Tunsgate Arch, directly opposite the Guildhall, fronted the former Corn Exchange when it was built in 1818. A road now passes beneath it.

    Turn right on Angel Gate, a narrow lane by the side of the ancient Angel Inn. This leads to North Street, scene of a colorful farmers' market held on Fridays and Saturdays. Make a left and return by Swan Lane to High Street, which you follow to the river.

    Cross that and return to the train station (1).

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS:

DAPDUNE WHARF (11), Wharf Road, off Woodbridge Rd (A322), about a mile north of Guildford. T: (01483) 561-389, W: nationaltrust.org.uk. Open mid-March through Oct.; Mon., Thurs., Fri., Sat., Sun. 11-5. River trips 11-4, weather permitting. Site admission: Adults £3.80, children £2. Boat trips: Adults £3.50, children £2. Tea room, picnic facilities. Ask at the tourist office or phone ahead for current information regarding public transportation to the site.

     Operated by the National Trust, Dapdune Wharf is a part of the River Wey & Godalming Navigations, which first opened in 1653 and reached Godalming by 1764. From then until its closure to commercial traffic in 1964 it was used to transport heavy goods to London via the River Thames. Today it is a perfectly preserved recreational asset offering boat rides along with a restored stable, smithy, and barge-building shed where visitors can climb aboard the barge Reliance. Interactive displays aid in discovering the history of Surrey’s secret waterway.

 

GUILDFORD CATHEDRAL (12), Stag Hill, reached via Guildford Park Road and Richmount, about one mile from the station. T: (01483) 565-287, W: guildford-cathedral.org. Open daily 8:30-5:30. Donations accepted. Refectory Restaurant offers quality meals.

    The first Anglican cathedral to be built on a new site in the south of England since the Reformation, it was begun in 1936 and consecrated in 1961. Although in line with the great English cathedrals, it is definitely a work on the 20th century, relying on proportion, mass, volume and line rather than elaboration and ornament. Its dramatic site atop Stag Hill overlooks Guildford and can be seen for miles around.

Text and map copyright © 2010 by Earl Steinbicker

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Woodstock, England

Another selection from my travel guidebook Daytrips London is this easy and very popular outing to one of the grandest of grand palaces anywhere — Blenheim, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill.

Trip 38

Woodstock

Blenheim Palace is the attraction that brings thousands of visitors from all over the globe to the ancient town of Woodstock. One of the greatest of England's stately homes, it was built in the early 18th century as a fitting tribute to John Churchill, the first duke of Marlborough, who routed the French and Bavarians at the Battle of Blenheim in 1704. Before this, the vast property on which it sits was a royal hunting preserve. A manor house existed on the site since at least the time of Æthelred the Unready, everyone's favorite Saxon king. Henry I made great improvements, and his mansion remained a residence of royalty down through Tudor days. By the time Blenheim Palace was built, however, the old structure had almost fallen to ruin and all traces of it were demolished.

Woodstock itself originally grew up to service the royal manor. Several inns were established for this purpose, and today continue to provide hospitality to the many visitors who come to see Blenheim Palace. There is also a fine museum of rural life, an interesting church, and lovely old streets lined with picturesque buildings.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains depart London's Paddington Station frequently for the one-hour trip to Oxford, where you change to local bus S3. Train schedules at W: firstgreatwestern.co.uk. There is also excellent bus (coach) service from London's Victoria Coach Station to Oxford, taking about 1½ hours, W: oxfordtube.com. Local buses leave from various points in Oxford, including the train station. This service changes frequently, so check with the Oxford Tourist Centre (see page 000) for current details. The bus ride from Oxford to Woodstock takes less than 30 minutes. Schedules at W: stagecoachbus.com/timetables/S3.

By Car, Woodstock is 64 miles northwest of London. Take the A40 and M40 to Oxford, then continue on the A44 to Woodstock.

PRACTICALITIES:

Blenheim Palace is open daily from mid-February through October, and on Wednesdays to Sundays from November until mid-December. Fine weather will make this trip much more enjoyable. Some online information is available at W: woodstock-oxfordshire.com. Woodstock is in the county of Oxfordshire, and has a population of about 3,000.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

The town of Woodstock has quite a few inns, pubs, and restaurants, including:

Feathers (Market St.) Elegant, dressy dining with French overtones in a small hotel. For reservations T: (01993) 812-291. £££

The Bear (Park St.) A coaching inn from the 16th century. T: (0870) 400-8202. £££

Brothertons Brasserie (1 High St.) Light meals with a creative touch. T: (01993) 811-114. £ and ££

Black Prince (Manor Rd., just north along Oxford St.) A popular local pub with good food. T: (01993) 811-530. £

Blenheim Palace offers several places for a full meal or just a snack, including an inexpensive cafeteria.

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Begin your visit at the bus stop (1) on Oxford Street opposite the Marlborough Arms Hotel and follow the map down Market and Park streets to the entrance of the Blenheim Palace grounds. The Triumphal Arch (2), designed in 1723 by Nicholas Hawksmoor as a monument to the first duke of Marlborough, is a fitting introduction to so grandiose a place. On your right is a lake created in 1764 by the renowned landscape architect Lancelot “Capability” Brown.

*BLENHEIM PALACE (3), T: (01993) 811-325, W: blenheimpalace.com. Open mid-February through Oct., daily 10:30-5:30; November through mid-December, Wed.-Sun. 10:30-5:30. Last admission at 4:45. £££. Park open all year, daily 9-5. Park only ££. Frequent events. Food service.

Blenheim Palace has been continuously occupied by the dukes of Marlborough since it was begun by Sir John Vanbrugh in the early 18th century as a gift from Queen Anne. Sir Winston Churchill, grandson of the seventh duke, was born here in 1874 and is buried nearby at Bladon Church. There is an exhibition of his personal belongings in the palace, which remains home to the present (11th) duke. To see its magnificent interior you can either take one of the frequent guided tours, lasting about an hour, or wander through on your own.

Be sure to explore at least part of the palace grounds after seeing the interior. The Butterfly House, where exotic tropical butterflies live in a virtually natural habitat, is another attraction included in the entrance fee. You can get to it by miniature railway or on foot. Close to this is the Marlborough Maze (4), the world's largest symbolic hedge maze.

A pleasant way to return to Woodstock is to follow the route on the map (photo, above). The Grand Bridge (5), an extravagant span over what was then only a creek, was part of Vanbrugh's original design. Most of it is now under water. The land just beyond it was the site of the old Woodstock Manor, for centuries a country residence for England's kings and queens.

Back in the village, stroll down Park Street and visit the small but interesting Oxfordshire Museum (6), which features displays of local life through the centuries along with temporary exhibitions. It is located in the historic Fletchers House, which also has a small Tourist Office and a coffee shop. T: (01993) 811-456, W: oxfordshire.gov.uk/the_oxfordshire_museum.

The town stocks (image, right), outside the museum, have holes for five legs. Was this a joke or did Woodstock have an unusual number of one-legged culprits? The Church (7) is often overlooked but is actually a fascinating study in changing styles, ranging from Norman to Perpendicular. Beyond this, the village offers several interesting shops and some very appealing pubs in which to relax.

Text and map copyright © 2009 by Earl Steinbicker.

New link, Dec. 19, 2011:

ATTENTION owners of the iPad, iPhone, or iPodTouch:

 

An up-to-date, interactive, improved version (now with video links) of this daytrip and many others in England is now available for use on iDevices at Apple's website:

   http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/londons-backyard/id440430871?mt=8

CLICK to find out more. The download costs less than a cup of coffee — and includes FREE future updates.

 

NOW AVAILABLE FOR ANDROID

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