Life's Little Adventures

Austria's Greatest Alpine Lake

Here's yet another SAMPLE ENTRY from my current app "Innsbruck Travel: the City & the Alps." The complete app for the iPad, iPhone, and iPod Touch may be downloaded at Apple's iTunes App Store. This app takes you to many unusual places within daytrip range of Innsbruck, and within the city itself, along with the popular favorites. It is also available on Google's App Store for download to most Android devices under the name "Innsbruck & the Alps."

Exploring the Achensee

Here's a one-day trip from Innsbruck that's easy to do but packs a lot of alpine experiences into a single passage.

It begins by riding a small 19th-century steam-operated cogwheel train through gorgeous countryside to one of the most fabulous lakes anywhere.

There you ascend by cable car to the top of a 6,000-foot mountain and perhaps take a short trail walk with sweeping vistas, or even try your hand at paragliding.

To finish off a fun-filled day you board a boat for a two-hour cruise to lakeside villages and return, with the opportunity for dinner onboard. After that, it's back the way you came.

The Achensee is the largest lake in the Tirol, with crystal-clear mountain water that's nearly pure enough to drink without treatment. It is sometimes referred to as the "Fjord of the Alps" as it lies at the bottom of a deep valley surrounded by rugged snow-covered peaks.

This complete trip can only be taken between the beginning of May and the end of October, when both the steam train and the boats operate. Otherwise, you could drive or take buses the entire way, but that's not nearly as much fun.

Watch your time carefully so you don't miss the last connection back to Jenbach.

There are numerous places for lunch around Maurach, the upper station of the Rohan cable car, and on board the lake steamer. All serve typical Tyrolean dishes, or just coffee, cakes, and other refreshments.

Trains depart Innsbruck's main station quite frequently for the short ride to Jenbach, which takes no more than 30 minutes. Return service operates until late evening.

By Car, take the A-12 highway 22 miles (35 km) northeast to Jenbach, then north a few blocks on Achenseestrasse and right on Bahnhofstrasse. There you'll find the Achenseebahn station to the right.

TOUR:

Touch photo in upper left. It will then fill the screen and morph into a DIAGRAM MAP. Touch this to remain on screen, and again to exit. NUMBERS on the map correspond to numbers in the text.

[Names in BOLD FACE CAPITAL LETTERS are actually links to separate entries within the app to those attractions. These links do not function on this blog, nor are the photos and additional practical information posted here].

Begin at the Achenseebahn station (1), next to Jenbach's regular train station. Here you purchase a combo ticket valid for the cogwheel train, cable cars, and boats, then board the ancient ACHENSEEBAHN steam train for a 35-minute ride to Maurach.

From the Maurach stop (2) it is only a short walk to the Rofan Seilbahn (3), a cable car that takes you right up to the ROFANSPITZE (4), where you can take an easy hike along the mountain top, engage in the thrilling sport of paragliding, enjoy the view from the Eagle's Nest, or just have lunch at one of several mountain inns.

Returning to the valley, either re-board the cog train or walk to Seespitz (5), the lakeside terminus of the rail line. Here you board a lake steamer for the one-hour ACHENSEE CRUISE to Scholastica (6), and another one-hour ride back to Seespitz, followed by the steam train back to Jenbach. Meals are available on board the boats.

NEARBY SITE:

SCHLOSS TRATZBERG (7) lies a short ride west of Jenbach. Dating from at least 1149 and presented in a fairytale manner, this is one of the best-preserved medieval castles in Austria.

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A Miniature Journey by Steam

This is a sample entry from my current app London Travel: a Guide to Great Day Trips. The complete app for the iPad, iPhone, and iPod Touch may be downloaded at Apple's iTunes app store. This app takes you to many unusual places within daytrip range of London, along with the popular favorites. It is also available for Android devices on Google's play store, under the name London's Backyard.

Names in BOLD FACE CAPITAL LETTERS are actually links to separate entries within the app for those attractions. These are not active on this blog.

 

A ride on the Romney, Hythe & Dymchurch Railway is a pure delight. There are no famous sights along its 14-mile length, just the exhilarating joy of being hauled across the Romney Marshes aboard a miniature steam train. This fun-filled day trip is the perfect antidote to a steady diet of cathedrals, castles, and stately homes.

Opened in 1927, the railway is one of the most popular attractions in southern England. Its one-third-scale locomotives are faithful replicas of famous engines that once served on the main lines. 

Over 300,000 passengers, not all of them children by any means, are carried each year in the diminutive coaches. Join them and you'll be glad you did.

Trains leave about twice an hour from London's Charing Cross Station (CHX) for Folkestone Central Station (FKC), with a journey time of about 90 minutes. Service is reduced on Sundays, and some trains split enroute. Return trains run until mid-evening. From Folkestone you can travel the five miles to Hythe by taxi or Stagecoach Bus, which offers a combo ticket with the steam line.

By Car, take the A20 and M20 roads to Newington/Stanford (Junction 11), then the A261 to Hythe. The total distance is 68 miles southeast of London.

Good weather is necessary to really enjoy this trip. The local Tourist Information Centre in Folkestone, T: (01303) 258 594, W: discoverfolkestone.co.uk, is near the harbor. The entire trip is in the county of Kent.

DINING:

Meals and snacks are available at the Heywood Buffet in the New Romney station, and the Light Railway Café at the Dungeness Station. Drinks — including the RH&D Celebration Steam Ale — and snacks are served on the miniature bar car attached to some of the trains (50p extra fare).

In addition, picnic tables are available at the New Romney, Dymchurch, and Dungeness stations.

A few nearby restaurants and pubs are:

LA TAVERNETTA

THE BRITANNIA

TOUR:

Touch photo in upper left. It will then fill the screen and morph into a DIAGRAM MAP. Touch that to remain on screen, THEN slide a finger from right to left to see more photos. Touch in upper left to return to text. NUMBERS on the map correspond to numbers in the text.

Those coming by train will begin their trip at Folkestone Central Station (1). From there walk a few blocks southeast to the Folkestone Bus Station (2) on Cheriton Gardens. You could, of course, take a taxi directly from the train station to Hythe, a distance of about five miles.

The Romney, Hythe & Dymchurch Light Railway Station in Hythe (3) is next to the Royal Military Canal, which was built as a defense during the Napoleonic Wars. A short walk along its banks is a pleasant diversion if you have a wait before the next train departure.

Take a careful look at the posted schedule (also on their website) and decide whether you want to go just to New Romney, or make a stop there and then continue on all the way to Dungeness. Note that a few of the miniature trains are hauled by diesel traction, in which case you may want to wait for steam.

A ride from Hythe to New Romney takes about 35 minutes, stopping at Dymchurch and St. Mary's Bay along the way. New Romney (4) is the headquarters of the railway and has several interesting things to see, including yards, engine shops, and the fascinating Toy and Model Museum, located above the Heywood Café. Here you can relive childhood dreams with vintage toys and a fantastic computer-controlled model railway in OO gauge, and do it free if you have an "All Stations, All Day" ticket for unlimited travel. There is also a buffet serving anything from drinks to full meals, and a gift shop.

Continuing on to Dungeness (5), the rails follow very close to the sea. This is a lovely and sparsely inhabited region, a perfect spot for the nuclear power plant at the end of the line. Getting off there, you may visit the Lifeboat Station and perhaps climb to the top of the Old Lighthouse. Built in 1901 to a height of 143 feet, it is open to visitors whenever the trains run. Time permitting, you might want to stop by the Brittania Pub.

Those traveling back to London via Folkestone will probably want to see a bit of that town before they leave. From the bus station it is an easy walk to The Leas (6), a promenade with magnificent maritime viwes. The harbor (7) is in the oldest part of town. Return via the quaint and narrow High Street, then head back to Central Station by bus, taxi, or on foot.

To see the rest of this and the other 24 daytrips out of London, download of the entire "London Travel: a Guide to Great Day Trips" app on your iPad, iPhone, or iPod Touch at Apple's iTunes app store, or for Android devices download on Google's app store as "London's Backyard."

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Exploring Giverny and Vernon: a Daytrip from Paris

 

This is a sample entry from my current app "Paris Travel: the City & Great Day Trips." The complete app for the iPad, iPhone, and iPod Touch may be downloaded Free at Apple's iTunes App Store. It is also available for Android devices at $2.99 at Google's Play App Store under the title "Paris Day Trips Travel Guide."

This app takes you to many unusual places within daytrip range of Paris, and within the city itself — along with the popular favorites. Names in BOLD FACE CAPITAL LETTERS are actually links to separate entries describing the attractions in detail. These links do not function on this blog. Also, the actual app contains many more photos and maps than are shown here, along with separate entries for the various attractions and eating places.

The Monet Gardens and More

Born in 1840, the celebrated French painter Claude Monet was one of the founding fathers of Impressionism and a vital force in the modern art movement it led to.

After a long period of ridicule and poverty, his talent finally received broad public recognition. Now fairly prosperous, Monet in 1883 created for himself and his family a lovely home surrounded by lush gardens near the Seine, in the tiny hamlet of Giverny. It was in this serene environment that his greatest works were achieved.

Following Monet's death in 1926, the property deteriorated badly until 1966, when it was willed to the Institut de France by his son Michel. Generous donations, primarily from the United States, have made possible a stunning restoration of this extraordinary place.

Ever since its public opening in 1980 as the Claude Monet Foundation, the gardens — along with his remarkably charming house and cavernous studio — have become an extremely popular destination, indeed a pilgrimage, for art lovers and tourists alike.

Organized bus tours to Giverny are offered by several firms in Paris, which are certainly a convenient way to reach this secluded spot. They have the disadvantage, however, of limiting the amount of time you can spend savoring its enchanting atmosphere. They also overlook nearby Vernon, an ancient town of considerable charm, worthy of a trip in itself.

Trains depart St.-Lazare Station in Paris several times daily for Vernon, less than an hour away. From here take a taxi (or Navette bus) the three-mile distance to Giverny. It's also possible to walk or rent a bicycle. Return trains run until early evening.

By Car, take the A-13 Autoroute to Bonnières-Vernon exit, then the N-15 into Vernon, cross the seine and follow signs to the Monet Museum. It is about 73 km (46 miles) northwest of Paris.

The Monet gardens and house are open daily from April through October. Avoid coming on a rainy day. The Tourist Office in Vernon is at 36 Rue Carnot, near the church.

Some good places for lunch in the area are:

LES NYMPHÉAS GIVERNY

ANCIEN HÔTEL BAUDY

LE BISTRO

TOUR:

Touch photo in upper left. It will then fill the screen and morph into a DIAGRAM MAP. Touch that to remain on screen, THEN slide a finger from right to left to see the Vernon Town Map and more photos. Touch in upper left to return to text. Numbers on the maps correspond to numbers in the text.

From the Vernon Train Station (1) you can take a taxi or bus some three miles to the FONDATION CLAUDE MONET (2) & (3).

Walking is also possible by following the map, or rent a bicycle in Vernon.

While in Giverny you might want to visit the stunning MUSEUM OF IMPRESSIONISM (4).

Returning to Vernon, you will have a beautiful view from the bridge of the town, the Seine, and the woods beyond. Visit the COLLEGIATE CHURCH OF NOTRE-DAME (5).

In the immediate vicinity stand a number of medieval half-timbered houses, lending atmosphere to this ancient settlement founded by Rollo, the first Duke of Normandy, in the 9th century.

Stroll down Rue Carnot and Rue Potard. The Archives Tower (6) is all that remains of a massive castle built in 1123 by King Henry I of England. Closeby, in another venerable building, is the POULAIN MUNICIPAL MUSEUM (7).

Another worthwhile sight stands a mile southwest of Vernon. Sometimes called "Le Petit Versailles," the CHÂTEAU BIZY (8) is a baroque masterpiece surrounded by forest.

To see the rest of this tour (including more photos and another map), along with the other 18 one-day adventures, take a FREE download of the entire "Paris Travel: the City and Great Day Trips" on your iPad, iPhone, or iPod Touch at Apple's iTunes App Store. It is also available for Android devices for $2.99 as "Paris Day Trips Travel Guide" at Google's Play App Store.

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On Being an Assistant Photographer

NOTE: This entry is taken directly from my recent app "Assisting Avedon," which is available for download to your iPad, iPhone, or iPod Touch from Apple's iTunes App Store. I assisted the world-famous photographer Richard Avedon from 1952 to 1965, and hope that this advice will help anyone interested in a similar career move.

 

What's Expected of You

Here I'd like to discuss just what it takes to become an assistant to a talented photographer such as Avedon. Especially as a learning experience, and as an apprenticeship before heading out on your own.

The first, and most important point, is to choose your mentor carefully. It must be someone whose work you really admire, and from whom you can learn. To assist the wrong photographer will just be time wasted. Preferably it should be someone located in a major city that is home to various media (magazines, ad agencies, etc.) — Americans should think New York or Los Angeles, Europeans London, Paris, Milan, or Berlin. Places that are hotbeds of creative activity.

The first lesson, therefore, is: Determine who you want to work for and pursue them. Relentlessly.

A second consideration is to make a list of ways in which you can make yourself most useful to the photographer. Some obvious choices are:

• Hardworking.
• Dependable.
• Willing to take direction.
• A strong body that can lift stuff.
• A good, safe driver with a clean record.
• Handiness with tools, paintbrushes, etc.
• Ability to do minor repairs.

Some valuable traits are:

• A well-rounded education, especially with some knowledge of the arts and philosophy.
• Ability to anticipate needs and act without having to be told what to do.
• Ability to live within your means, without becoming a burden. Face it, you're not going to make much until you acquire real skills.
• A good appearance. You are representing the boss. Look it.
• Good language skills, especially English. A smattering of foreign tongues wouldn't hurt, either.
• A good conversationalist.
• Computer savvy.
• Curiosity about the world around you.
• Lastly, a burning passion for photography; a real fire in the belly.

Notice that I said nothing about being a talented photographer. You're there to learn and assist the photographer, not to take the pictures. In the past, darkroom experience would have been a valuable asset; today it would most certainly help to at least be familiar with Adobe Photoshop.

And if you get the job, don't blow it!

The worst case of missed opportunity I ever heard of actually happened in Avedon's studio back in 1965. An international service club had a program of finding trainee jobs for talented but impoverished youth. Avedon agreed to take on a young guy from an underprivileged background and train him in studio ways, paying him a modest wage. He showed up the first day full of enthusiasm and really tried hard to please. We were quite happy with him. The next day, however, he never came to work. Concerned that something might have happened to him, we called his mother. She answered that he just didn't feel like working today, so that was the end of his brief employment.

Another one occurred in 1960 when a trainee decided that a weekend social engagement was more important than assisting on a sudden, unexpected weekend photo assignment. He was told not to return. As long as you are a junior assistant you are expected to be available at any time.

Some other things that could nip a career in the bud are:

• Displays of personal drama. Be cool.
• Taking attention away from the boss by showing too much personality, dressing too sharply, or otherwise being too noticeable. Be invisible at times.
• Contradicting the boss in front of clients. They won't have much confidence in him if even his assistants think he's wrong.
• Allowing your cell phone to ring during jobs. Turn it off.
• Asking stars and VIPs for autographs.
• Being a pest.
• Ordering the most expensive food and drink when dining out with the boss and/or clients.
• Taking your own photos while the boss is taking his.

IS THIS ASKING TOO MUCH? If you think so, you may be better off pursuing a different career.

ANOTHER APPROACH, and for some a better one, is to set yourself up as a FREE-LANCE ASSISTANT, working by the day or job. This allows you to learn from different photographers with varying techniques and to get a better oversight of the entire business. The downside is that work only comes when the photographers' own staffs cannot handle the load, and that there will be dry periods of no income during which you can work on developing your own portfolio. It helps to have worked for a well-known photographer who will recommend your services to others.

 

AGAIN, the link for downloading the entire "Assisting Avedon" app to your iPad, iPhone, or iPod Touch is HERE.

More samples, including a table of contents, are on my Assisting Avedon blog. 

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A Walk Into the 18th Century

This is a sample entry from my current app London Travel: a Guide to Great Day Trips. The complete app for the iPad, iPhone, and iPod Touch may be downloaded at Apple's iTunes app store. This app takes you to many unusual places within daytrip range of London, along with the popular favorites.

Names in BOLD FACE CAPITAL LETTERS are actually links to separate entries for those attractions. Links are not functional on this "Life's Little Adventures" blog.

 

The many canals of England are enjoying a resurgence of popularity unknown since the 19th century, not as the commercial carriers of old but as a watery two-thousand-mile-long linear park for pleasure boaters, fishermen, and just plain walkers in search of a quiet calm far removed from the busy world.

Preservation societies and government agencies have restored much of the system as a pleasant amenity of the English countryside where you can go back in time to a simpler age.

This trip can be taken two ways. First, for those up to an eight-mile walk (level all the way), there is the towpath hike from Wolverton to Stoke Bruerne and the Bilsworth Tunnel. An easier approach is to travel by car or a train/bus combination directly to the unspoiled village of Stoke Bruerne, visit its superb canal museum, watch narrowboats working through its locks, perhaps take a canal boat ride, stroll out to the tunnel, and then relax in one of its colorful pubs. The choice is yours.

Stoke Bruerne (pronounced Stoke Brewin) is regarded as the best example of a true canal village in England. It lies on the Grand Union (formerly Grand Junction) Canal linking London with the Midlands.

Begun in 1783 to eliminate deficiencies in the earlier Oxford Canal-River Thames route, the canal was completed by 1800 except for the Blisworth Hill Tunnel at Stoke Bruerne, which took another five years during which time a horse-drawn tram-road carried the boats' cargo across the hill.

At the same time the Great Ouse Aqueduct near Wolverton was completed, replacing the steps of locks to river bed and back up.

For another 40 years the canal prospered until the coming of the railways forced its decline. From these changing conditions a gypsy way of life evolved among the canal folk, still evoked in the colorful decorations of the narrowboats seen on the canal today.

An attempt at modernization was started in 1929 following the amalgamation of several canals into the Grand Union Canal. In 1948 the transport structure of Great Britain was nationalized, including the canals, which continued their decline in usefulness.

It was the environmental spirit born in the 1960s that recognized canals as an asset in ways other than commercial haulage. Today much of the system has been restored to a condition of tranquil beauty far surpassing that of any time in its past.

Trains depart London's Euston Station (EUS) frequently for the ride to Milton Keynes Central (MKC), with a change there for Wolverton (WOL). The total journey takes about 40 minutes. Return trains run until late evening.

There is bus service between Wolverton and Stoke Bruerne, or you could take a taxi (much faster).

By Car, take the M1 north, then head west on the A422 into Wolverton, then north on the A5, and finally the A508 into Stoke Bruerne.

Touch the photo in the upper left. It will then fill the screen and morph into a DIAGRAM MAP. Touch that to remain on screen, and again to exit, or slide a finger from right to left to see another photo. NUMBERS on the map correspond to numbers in the Tour 1 and Tour 2 texts.

Those taking the 8-mile-long towpath walk described in Suggested Tour 1 should wear suitable shoes as some areas may be a bit muddy.

Some recommended restaurants and pubs are:

NAVIGATION INN (in Cosgrove)

WHITE HART PUB (in Grafton Regis)

SPICE OF BRUERNE

THE BOAT INN

THE NAVIGATION

Those doing the entire walk start with SUGGESTED TOUR 1.

Once in Stoke Bruerne use SUGGESTED TOUR 2.

These links lead to separate entries for the two tours, each complete with map and photos. Links are not functional on this "Life's Little Adventures" blog entry, only on the app. Download the entire London Travel: a Guide to Great Day Trips app to your iPad, iPhone, or iPod Touch at Apple's iTunes App store.

 

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Musical Mittenwald — An Easy Daytrip From Innsbruck

This is a sample entry from my current app Innsbruck Travel: the City & the Alps. The complete apps for the iPad and iPhone may be downloaded Free at Apple's iTunes app store. This app takes you to many unusual places within daytrip range of Innsbruck, along with the popular favorites.

Names in BOLD FACE CAPITAL LETTERS are actually links to separate entries for those attractions. 

A One Day Adventure in the "Village of a Thousand Violins"

If you were asked to design a stage set for an Alpine romance, you could hardly do better than to copy Mittenwald. This dreamy German town on the Austrian border, easily reached from Innsbruck, has everything — a rugged mountain peak rising vertically from its own back yard, colorfully-painted houses lining the peaceful streets, and a rich musical heritage as the "Village of a Thousand Violins."

The latter is Mittenwald's chief industry, next to tourism. Once a prosperous trading post on the Venice-to-Augsburg road, its economy fell to ruin as traffic moved to other passes.

Then, in the 17th century, an unlikely miracle happened. A local lad named Matthias Klotz had moved to Cremona, where he learned the art of violin making from the legendary Nicolo Amati. On his return in 1684 he founded the trade that today exports Mittenwald string instruments to the entire world.

Although not as high as Garmisch's Zugpitze, a ride up the Karwendel mountain at Mittenwald is a more satisfying experience as its summit is wide open, allowing good opportunities for hiking, climbing, or just playing in the snow.

Trains bound for Munich depart Innsbruck's main station several times in the morning for Mittenwald, a trip of about one hour.

By Car, Mittenwald is about 40 miles (64 km) northwest of Innsbruck. Take the B-171 road west to near Zirl, then head north on the B-177, becoming Germany's B-2 in Germany, into Mittenwald.

Mittenwald is a year-round resort, but good weather is really necessary to enjoy it. You might want to bring along hiking boots and a sweater for a romp in the snow atop the Karwendel — even in summer. Bicycles may be rented from several local firms.

Some especially good restaurants and cafés are:

ARNSPITZE

ALPENROSE

HOTEL RIEGER

HOTELPOST

TOUR:

Touch photo in upper left. It will then fill the screen and morph into a DIAGRAM MAP. Touch that to remain on screen, and again to exit. NUMBERS on the diagram map correspond to numbers in the text. 

Leave the Train Station (1) and follow Bahnhofstrasse to the Rathaus (Town Hall) (2), which houses the tourist office.

From here it is a short stroll to the stunning Baroque Pfarrkirche (Parish Church) (3). Built in the 18th century by the famous architect Josef Schmuzer, its beautifully-frescoed and richly decorated interior are symbols of the town's prosperity. Note the ceiling images of angels playing stringed instruments. In front of it stads a statue of Matthia Klotz making a violin.

A few steps down Ballenhausgasse brings you to the GEIGENBAU MUSEUM (4). 

Stroll along a street called Im Gries to see the oldest houses in Mittenwald, among which are several outstanding examples of Lüftmalerei, the characteristic art of outdoor frescoes that originated during the Counter-Reformation to help proclaim the Catholic faith.

Return to the church and turn right onto Obermarkt, the main street. This is also lined with some wonderfully-frescoed structures. Walk along it to the edge of town, where it becomes Innsbrucker Strasse. Just before the first bridge a path leads off to the right and the LEUTASCHKLAMM (5).

Return to Innsbrucker Strasse and stroll down Mühlen Weg. Cross a bridge and walk along the Isar, a river on which goods were once floated downstream to Munich. You will soon come to the lower station of the KARWENDELBAHN (6), a large cable car that transports you in 10 minutes to the heights of the Karwendel Mountain (7).

After the mountaintop experience, return to Mittenwald and Innsbruck.

To see the rest of this and other trips, take a FREE download of the entire Innsbruck Travel app on your iPad or iPhone at Apple's iTunes app store, or a $2.99 download as Innsbruck & the Alps for Android devices at Google's app store.

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Ascending the Schneeberg — An Easy Daytrip From Vienna

This is a sample entry from my current app Vienna Travel: the City & Great Day Trips. The complete app for the iPad and iPhone may be downloaded Free at Apple's iTunes app store. This app takes you to many unusual places within daytrip range of Vienna, along with the popular favorites.

Names in BOLD FACE CAPITAL LETTERS are actually links to separate entries for those attractions.

A One-Day Adventure Atop Vienna's Own Mountain

A trip to the Schneeberg is strictly for fun. It may not be exactly towering by Alpine standards, but Vienna's very own "Snow Mountain" is close at hand and is just the place for a day's escape from the rigors of sightseeing.

Rising some 6,811 feet (2,076 meters) above sea level, it carries a mantle of snow throughout much of the summer, and in winter provides perfectly enjoyable skiing. The views are magnificent, the air is clean, and you can even try a little bit of mountain hiking if you like.

Being the highest peak in the province of Lower Austria is not the Schneeberg's only attraction. Thousands of people go there on Sundays and holidays just to experience the marvelous old Schmalspurige Dampfbetriebene Zahnradbahn (narrow-gauge steam-operated cog-wheel railroad) that chugs and clangs its smoky way for six miles in a mere 80 minutes, gaining 3,980 feet (1,233 meters) of altitude in the process. Built in the 1890s, these primitive trains still carry wooden cars with hard seats, and are an absolute delight for both railfans and normal people alike.

These are now supplemented on weekdays with modern, environment-friendly diesel railcars that offer a more comfortable — and faster — ride. Both take you almost to the top of the mountain, to a point where you can relish the view and perhaps have lunch or a few drinks; or you can continue on foot over good trails to the very summit to say that you've been there.

Trains leave Vienna's Südbahnhof several times daily from about 6:30 to 10 a.m. for the ride to Wiener Neustadt, changing there for Puchberg-am-Schneeberg where you board a steam or diesel cog-wheel train. Service is best on summer weekends. Return trains run from Puchberg to Vienna until late evening. It is imperative that you check the schedules in advance as they change seasonally and are subject to variations. Schedules can be had online at oebb.at.

By Car, take the A-2 Autobahn south from Vienna to the Wiener Neustadt West exit, then the B-26 west to Puchberg-am-Schneeberg. The total distance is 45 miles (72 km).

Avoid making this trip between November and late April, when the trains do not operate except as holiday specials. Some warm, layered clothing should be brought along as it is much cooler atop the mountain. A light jacket or sweater should suffice in summer. Clear weather is essential for enjoyment of this trip, and an early start is strongly recommended as are reservations for the steam train.

For further information visit the website schneebergbahn.at, which also has a nice 9-minute video (auf deutsch).

Recommended places for meals or drinks on the mountain are:

BERGHAUS HOCHSCHNEEBERG

FISCHERHÜTTE

DAMBÖCK HAUS

HALTSTELLE BAUMGARTEN

TOUR:

To see a DIAGRAM MAP of this tour just touch the photo in the upper left. It will then fill the screen and morph into a map. Touch that to keep it on the screen, THEN slide a finger from right to left for more photos. Touch in upper left to return to text. Numbers on the Diagram Map correspond to numbers in the text. NOTE that on this map North points towards the right to conserve space.

Begin at the Puchberg-am-Schneeberg Train Station (1), where you purchase your ticket and obtain a seat reservation (platzkarte). 

Those lucky enough to get the steam train should pause a moment to examine the cog-wheel locomotive before boarding. Built in the 1890s, it looks as though the front axles have collapsed, but this peculiar angle relative to the track is to keep the firebox level while climbing the mountain. The engine is at the downhill end of the train to prevent any coaches from giving you an excessively thrilling ride in the event of a coupling failure. Depending on your tolerance for the acrid smell of coal smoke, you may want to ride in the car next to the locomotive so that you can watch the engineer at work.

The faster, more comfortable "Salamander" rack-rail trains are less fun (and rather ugly as well) but still offer the same views.

The first stretch is spent climbing through a forest with ever-changing views of the valley, the mountain huts, and the babbling brooks. This is followed by a scheduled rest stop at the Baumgartner Haus (2), where you can get off for refreshments.

The climb now becomes much steeper, soon passing the timberline and entering a region of Alpine tundra. There are two tunnels in this stretch — those riding the steam train should close the windows quickly when the train enters them or be overwhelmed by its smoke!

The upper station, Hochschneeberg (3), is reached 55 minutes after leaving Puchberg (80 minutes by steam train). Here you should make reservations for the return journey.

Next to the station are sidings where the steam train is parked, awaiting its afternoon trip down. Its fire is kept going, making it fascinating to walk around the black, sooty, hissing beast.

On the other side of the tracks is a rather strange chapel, the Elizabethkirche, which was visited in 1902 by Kaiser Franz Joseph, who came by train.

It is only a short stroll to the Berghaus Hochschneeberg, a sturdy but primitive small hotel that opened when the tracks first reached these heights. Meals and drinks are available here, as are hiking maps (Wanderkarten) of the area.

From the station you can walk along a wide trail with green blazes, going around the Waxriegel summit (6,193 feet or 1,888 meters) and in 15 minutes reach the Damböck Haus (4), a hut maintained by the Austrian Touring Club (ÖTK) that offers cheap meals, rustic Gemütlichkeit, and even overnight accommodations. In the Austrian Alps, hikers do not sleep in tents or carry cooking equipment. Instead, they make use of some 700 such huts. This explains the small rucksacks that Austrian hikers carry in contrast to the huge backpacks common to Americans. The ecological lessons are clear; Austria is a nation of hikers and climbers, yet the mountains remain pristine.

From here it's an hour's hike to the Kaiserstein (5), site of another hut, the Fischerhütte, which at an altitude of 6,760 feet (2,060 meters) is Lower Austria's highest place to eat or sleep. A ridge trail with red blazes leads shortly to the main summit, the Klosterwappen (6), for a magnificent view from a height of 6,811 feet (2,076 meters) of the Pre-Alps as far as Vienna's Wienerwald, and across the Höllental Valley to the Raxalpe and the High Alps.

There are several trail options taking you back to the upper train station, but the easiest, quickest. and safest route is to just retrace your steps.

To see the rest of the trip, with photos and maps, take a FREE download of the entire Vienna Travel app on your iPad or iPhone at Apple's iTunes app store, or a $2.99 download as Vienna & Beyond for Android devices at Google's app store. Here are all the places it can take you to:

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Exploring Moret-sur-Loing — An Easy Daytrip From Paris

This is a sample partial entry from my current app Paris Travel: the City & Great Daytrips. The complete app for the iPad and iPhone may be downloaded Free at Apple's iTunes store. This app takes you to many unusual places within daytrip range of Paris, along with the popular favorites.

Names in BOLD FACE CAPITAL LETTERS are actually links to separate entries for those attractions.

One of the Most Beautiful Villages in all France

Although it has long been a favorite weekend retreat for Parisians, Moret-sur-Loing has yet to be discovered by foreign visitors. This deliciously picturesque old town on the meandering Loing River looks like a scene from an Impressionist peinting, and in fact is one. The noted artist Alfred Sisley spent the latter days of his life here, immortalizing for all time its narrow streets, quaint church, delightful bridge, and charming watermills.

Moret was a strategically important fortress as early as the 12th century, when it protected the Île-de-France from the Counts of Champagne. Many of its original structures still exist, preserved amid a medieval atmosphere virtually unmatched elsewhere in the region. 

A trip to Moret can be combined quite easily with one to Fontainebleau, just 10 km (6 miles) away on the same rail line. If you are driving, you could visit Vaux-le-Vicomte, a fabulous château just outside Melun, instead.

Those going to Moret only will find that it makes a good afternoon trip.

Trains leave Gare de Lyon station in Paris hourly for Moret-Véneux-les-Sablons, usually stopping at Fontainebleau en route. The trip takes less than one hour. Return service operates until mid-evening. Although Moret is a very small town, it is also an important rail junction, with trains to and from Paris using different, widely-spaced platforms. Be careful to note the correct one on the departure board.

By Car, take the A6 highway to the Fontainebleau exit, then the N6 into Moret, which lies about 74 km (46 miles) southeast of Paris.

Moret can be enjoyed at any time in good weather, particularly on weekends. Son et Lumiére spectacles are held on Saturday nights from mid-June through September.

Moret is in the Département of Seine-et-Marne, and has a population of about 4,500.

Some restaurant choices:

RELAIS DE PONT-LOUP

AUBERGE DE LA TERRASSE

HOSTELLERIE DE CHEVAL NOIR

TOUR:

Touch photo in upper left. It will then fill the screen and morph into a DIAGRAM MAP. Touch that to remain on screen, THEN slide a finger from right to left to see more photos. Touch in upper left to return to text. Numbers on the map correspond to number in the text.

 The Moret-Véneux-les-Sablons Train Station (1) is nearly a mile from the town proper. You could call for a taxi, although the walk is rather pleasant.

Enter the Old Town through the 12th-century Porte de Samois gate (2), near the tourist office. Continue down Rue Grande where, at number 24, opposite the war memorial park, you will pass the house where Napoleon spent the last night on his return from Elba.

Here stands the so-called Maison François I (3), a splendid Renaissance façade built in 1527 and later moved, stone-by-stone, to Paris where it remained until 1956. It was then returned to Moret.

Back on Rue Grande there are two fine Renaissance houses at numbers 28 and 30.

Stroll straight ahead through the venerable 12th-century Porte de Bourgogne gate (4). From here a famous bridge spans the Loing River. Midstream, on either side, are two striking old mills, now private residences. 

Once across, make a left into the park (5) on the river's edge, where you can enjoy the romantic view captured in Sisley's renowned painting, The Bridge at Moret, displayed in the Orsay Museum in Paris.

From here it's just a short stroll down Route de Saint-Mammès to Moret's intriguing BICYCLE MUSEUM (6).

There's more...

To see the rest of the trip, take a Free download of the entire Paris Travel app on your iPad or iPhone at Apple's iTunes store. Here are all the places it can take you to: 

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Exploring Bletchley Park — An Easy Daytrip From London

This is a sample partial entry from my current app London Travel: a Guide to Great Day Trips. The complete app for the iPad and iPhone may be downloaded at Apple's iTunes app store. This app takes you to many unusual places with daytrip range of London, along with the popular favorites. It is also available for ANDROID devices under the name London's Backyard.

Enigma: Something That is Not Easily Explained or Understood

Many of the deepest secrets of World War II are revealed at this rather nondescript estate north of London, where British and American cryptographers decoded the most sensitive Nazi and Japanese communications and played a critical role in the ultimate Allied victories. 

Military history buffs will love this place, as will anyone fascinated by computers. Not only was Bletchley Park a top-secret intelligence center, but it was also home to the world's first digital computer, which has recently been replicated. 

This is also the best place to learn about the fabled ENIGMA machine and its big brother, the LORENZ — Hitler's secret weapons that could have won him mastery over Europe had not the specialists at Bletchley done their jobs so well.

Bletchley is part of the modern "New Town" of Milton Keynes, created in 1967 at a point midway between London, Birmingham, Cambridge, and Oxford. Unlike other destinations on this app, it is not configured as a suggested tour since everything is in one place.

Trains depart London's Euston Station (EUS) frequently for the 40-minute ride to Bletchley (BLY), with returns until late evening. Avoid the slower ones requiring a change at Milton Keynes. Bletchley Station is very close to the estate.

By Car, take the A5 north to the A4146 exit marked Bletchley/Fenny Stratford. At the next big roundabout make a left onto a dual highway. When you pass under a railway bridge, follow signs to the Railway Station, making a right onto Sherwood Drive. Bletchley Park is on the left shortly. It is about 60 miles (97 km) northwest of London. Onsite parking is £3.

Touch photo in upper left. It will then fill the screen and morph into a DIAGRAM MAP. Touch that to remain on screen, THEN slide a finger from right to left to see more photos. Touch in upper left to return to text.

The National Museum of Computing, also on the same grounds and same admission ticket, is open only on Thursdays, Saturdays, and bank holidays, from 1-4; and also on guided tours on Tuesday and Sunday afternoons. Some parts are open daily.

Visitors should wear sensible clothes and footwear as some outdoor walking is involved. There are no restrictions on photography or videoing.

A full range of meals, snacks, and drinks are served at The Café in Hut 4, a restored WWII codebreaking location. There are also a few pubs nearby on Buckingham Road.

TOUR:

Begin at the Block-B Exhibition Centre, housed in an original wartime building. This is where you can get a good introduction to the process of communications interception, decryption, translation, interpretation, and analysis — the very heart of intelligence gathering that was so vital to winning the war.

Surely, the most famous item here is the Nazi Enigma machine, an electro-mechanical device that uses a series of rotating wheels to scramble plaintext messages into incoherent ciphertext. There were billions and billions of possible combinations, so the system was considered to be absolutely secure to all except another Enigma machine with exactly the same settings.

There was a weak point point, however. Any letter of the alphabet could represent any other letter, EXCEPT itself. That clue, and work done by Polish mathematicians before the war, enabled the Bletchley codebreakers to crack the Enigma code early on, giving the Allies a big advantage that probably shortened the war by two years and saved countless lives.

Much of the Enigma codecracking was done on the Bombe machine, developed here by mathematicians Alan Turing (considered to be the "father" of digital computing) and Gordon Welchman. Some 200 of these were built, and all destroyed after the war for security reasons. One has recently been rebuilt at Bletchley.

There are displays of similar machines dating from the 1920s to the 1970s, from Britain, U.S.A., Russia, Sweden, and Switzerland.

To see the rest of the trip, with photos and maps, take a download of the entire London Travel app into your iPad or iPhone on Apple's iTunes app store. Here's all the places it takes you to:

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MORE HERE

ASSISTING AVEDON

My Assisting Avedon app for the iPad, iPhone, and iPodTouch is now up and running on Apple's iTunes.

CHECK IT OUT HERE, then download to find all about the great photographer's early years, and a lot more as well.

There's also more on my other blog, www.assistingavedon.com.

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