Life's Little Adventures

Austria's Greatest Alpine Lake

Here's yet another SAMPLE ENTRY from my current app "Innsbruck Travel: the City & the Alps." The complete app for the iPad, iPhone, and iPod Touch may be downloaded at Apple's iTunes App Store. This app takes you to many unusual places within daytrip range of Innsbruck, and within the city itself, along with the popular favorites. It is also available on Google's App Store for download to most Android devices under the name "Innsbruck & the Alps."

Exploring the Achensee

Here's a one-day trip from Innsbruck that's easy to do but packs a lot of alpine experiences into a single passage.

It begins by riding a small 19th-century steam-operated cogwheel train through gorgeous countryside to one of the most fabulous lakes anywhere.

There you ascend by cable car to the top of a 6,000-foot mountain and perhaps take a short trail walk with sweeping vistas, or even try your hand at paragliding.

To finish off a fun-filled day you board a boat for a two-hour cruise to lakeside villages and return, with the opportunity for dinner onboard. After that, it's back the way you came.

The Achensee is the largest lake in the Tirol, with crystal-clear mountain water that's nearly pure enough to drink without treatment. It is sometimes referred to as the "Fjord of the Alps" as it lies at the bottom of a deep valley surrounded by rugged snow-covered peaks.

This complete trip can only be taken between the beginning of May and the end of October, when both the steam train and the boats operate. Otherwise, you could drive or take buses the entire way, but that's not nearly as much fun.

Watch your time carefully so you don't miss the last connection back to Jenbach.

There are numerous places for lunch around Maurach, the upper station of the Rohan cable car, and on board the lake steamer. All serve typical Tyrolean dishes, or just coffee, cakes, and other refreshments.

Trains depart Innsbruck's main station quite frequently for the short ride to Jenbach, which takes no more than 30 minutes. Return service operates until late evening.

By Car, take the A-12 highway 22 miles (35 km) northeast to Jenbach, then north a few blocks on Achenseestrasse and right on Bahnhofstrasse. There you'll find the Achenseebahn station to the right.

TOUR:

Touch photo in upper left. It will then fill the screen and morph into a DIAGRAM MAP. Touch this to remain on screen, and again to exit. NUMBERS on the map correspond to numbers in the text.

[Names in BOLD FACE CAPITAL LETTERS are actually links to separate entries within the app to those attractions. These links do not function on this blog, nor are the photos and additional practical information posted here].

Begin at the Achenseebahn station (1), next to Jenbach's regular train station. Here you purchase a combo ticket valid for the cogwheel train, cable cars, and boats, then board the ancient ACHENSEEBAHN steam train for a 35-minute ride to Maurach.

From the Maurach stop (2) it is only a short walk to the Rofan Seilbahn (3), a cable car that takes you right up to the ROFANSPITZE (4), where you can take an easy hike along the mountain top, engage in the thrilling sport of paragliding, enjoy the view from the Eagle's Nest, or just have lunch at one of several mountain inns.

Returning to the valley, either re-board the cog train or walk to Seespitz (5), the lakeside terminus of the rail line. Here you board a lake steamer for the one-hour ACHENSEE CRUISE to Scholastica (6), and another one-hour ride back to Seespitz, followed by the steam train back to Jenbach. Meals are available on board the boats.

NEARBY SITE:

SCHLOSS TRATZBERG (7) lies a short ride west of Jenbach. Dating from at least 1149 and presented in a fairytale manner, this is one of the best-preserved medieval castles in Austria.

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A Miniature Journey by Steam

This is a sample entry from my current app London Travel: a Guide to Great Day Trips. The complete app for the iPad, iPhone, and iPod Touch may be downloaded at Apple's iTunes app store. This app takes you to many unusual places within daytrip range of London, along with the popular favorites. It is also available for Android devices on Google's play store, under the name London's Backyard.

Names in BOLD FACE CAPITAL LETTERS are actually links to separate entries within the app for those attractions. These are not active on this blog.

 

A ride on the Romney, Hythe & Dymchurch Railway is a pure delight. There are no famous sights along its 14-mile length, just the exhilarating joy of being hauled across the Romney Marshes aboard a miniature steam train. This fun-filled day trip is the perfect antidote to a steady diet of cathedrals, castles, and stately homes.

Opened in 1927, the railway is one of the most popular attractions in southern England. Its one-third-scale locomotives are faithful replicas of famous engines that once served on the main lines. 

Over 300,000 passengers, not all of them children by any means, are carried each year in the diminutive coaches. Join them and you'll be glad you did.

Trains leave about twice an hour from London's Charing Cross Station (CHX) for Folkestone Central Station (FKC), with a journey time of about 90 minutes. Service is reduced on Sundays, and some trains split enroute. Return trains run until mid-evening. From Folkestone you can travel the five miles to Hythe by taxi or Stagecoach Bus, which offers a combo ticket with the steam line.

By Car, take the A20 and M20 roads to Newington/Stanford (Junction 11), then the A261 to Hythe. The total distance is 68 miles southeast of London.

Good weather is necessary to really enjoy this trip. The local Tourist Information Centre in Folkestone, T: (01303) 258 594, W: discoverfolkestone.co.uk, is near the harbor. The entire trip is in the county of Kent.

DINING:

Meals and snacks are available at the Heywood Buffet in the New Romney station, and the Light Railway Café at the Dungeness Station. Drinks — including the RH&D Celebration Steam Ale — and snacks are served on the miniature bar car attached to some of the trains (50p extra fare).

In addition, picnic tables are available at the New Romney, Dymchurch, and Dungeness stations.

A few nearby restaurants and pubs are:

LA TAVERNETTA

THE BRITANNIA

TOUR:

Touch photo in upper left. It will then fill the screen and morph into a DIAGRAM MAP. Touch that to remain on screen, THEN slide a finger from right to left to see more photos. Touch in upper left to return to text. NUMBERS on the map correspond to numbers in the text.

Those coming by train will begin their trip at Folkestone Central Station (1). From there walk a few blocks southeast to the Folkestone Bus Station (2) on Cheriton Gardens. You could, of course, take a taxi directly from the train station to Hythe, a distance of about five miles.

The Romney, Hythe & Dymchurch Light Railway Station in Hythe (3) is next to the Royal Military Canal, which was built as a defense during the Napoleonic Wars. A short walk along its banks is a pleasant diversion if you have a wait before the next train departure.

Take a careful look at the posted schedule (also on their website) and decide whether you want to go just to New Romney, or make a stop there and then continue on all the way to Dungeness. Note that a few of the miniature trains are hauled by diesel traction, in which case you may want to wait for steam.

A ride from Hythe to New Romney takes about 35 minutes, stopping at Dymchurch and St. Mary's Bay along the way. New Romney (4) is the headquarters of the railway and has several interesting things to see, including yards, engine shops, and the fascinating Toy and Model Museum, located above the Heywood Café. Here you can relive childhood dreams with vintage toys and a fantastic computer-controlled model railway in OO gauge, and do it free if you have an "All Stations, All Day" ticket for unlimited travel. There is also a buffet serving anything from drinks to full meals, and a gift shop.

Continuing on to Dungeness (5), the rails follow very close to the sea. This is a lovely and sparsely inhabited region, a perfect spot for the nuclear power plant at the end of the line. Getting off there, you may visit the Lifeboat Station and perhaps climb to the top of the Old Lighthouse. Built in 1901 to a height of 143 feet, it is open to visitors whenever the trains run. Time permitting, you might want to stop by the Brittania Pub.

Those traveling back to London via Folkestone will probably want to see a bit of that town before they leave. From the bus station it is an easy walk to The Leas (6), a promenade with magnificent maritime viwes. The harbor (7) is in the oldest part of town. Return via the quaint and narrow High Street, then head back to Central Station by bus, taxi, or on foot.

To see the rest of this and the other 24 daytrips out of London, download of the entire "London Travel: a Guide to Great Day Trips" app on your iPad, iPhone, or iPod Touch at Apple's iTunes app store, or for Android devices download on Google's app store as "London's Backyard."

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Ascending the Schneeberg — An Easy Daytrip From Vienna

This is a sample entry from my current app Vienna Travel: the City & Great Day Trips. The complete app for the iPad and iPhone may be downloaded Free at Apple's iTunes app store. This app takes you to many unusual places within daytrip range of Vienna, along with the popular favorites.

Names in BOLD FACE CAPITAL LETTERS are actually links to separate entries for those attractions.

A One-Day Adventure Atop Vienna's Own Mountain

A trip to the Schneeberg is strictly for fun. It may not be exactly towering by Alpine standards, but Vienna's very own "Snow Mountain" is close at hand and is just the place for a day's escape from the rigors of sightseeing.

Rising some 6,811 feet (2,076 meters) above sea level, it carries a mantle of snow throughout much of the summer, and in winter provides perfectly enjoyable skiing. The views are magnificent, the air is clean, and you can even try a little bit of mountain hiking if you like.

Being the highest peak in the province of Lower Austria is not the Schneeberg's only attraction. Thousands of people go there on Sundays and holidays just to experience the marvelous old Schmalspurige Dampfbetriebene Zahnradbahn (narrow-gauge steam-operated cog-wheel railroad) that chugs and clangs its smoky way for six miles in a mere 80 minutes, gaining 3,980 feet (1,233 meters) of altitude in the process. Built in the 1890s, these primitive trains still carry wooden cars with hard seats, and are an absolute delight for both railfans and normal people alike.

These are now supplemented on weekdays with modern, environment-friendly diesel railcars that offer a more comfortable — and faster — ride. Both take you almost to the top of the mountain, to a point where you can relish the view and perhaps have lunch or a few drinks; or you can continue on foot over good trails to the very summit to say that you've been there.

Trains leave Vienna's Südbahnhof several times daily from about 6:30 to 10 a.m. for the ride to Wiener Neustadt, changing there for Puchberg-am-Schneeberg where you board a steam or diesel cog-wheel train. Service is best on summer weekends. Return trains run from Puchberg to Vienna until late evening. It is imperative that you check the schedules in advance as they change seasonally and are subject to variations. Schedules can be had online at oebb.at.

By Car, take the A-2 Autobahn south from Vienna to the Wiener Neustadt West exit, then the B-26 west to Puchberg-am-Schneeberg. The total distance is 45 miles (72 km).

Avoid making this trip between November and late April, when the trains do not operate except as holiday specials. Some warm, layered clothing should be brought along as it is much cooler atop the mountain. A light jacket or sweater should suffice in summer. Clear weather is essential for enjoyment of this trip, and an early start is strongly recommended as are reservations for the steam train.

For further information visit the website schneebergbahn.at, which also has a nice 9-minute video (auf deutsch).

Recommended places for meals or drinks on the mountain are:

BERGHAUS HOCHSCHNEEBERG

FISCHERHÜTTE

DAMBÖCK HAUS

HALTSTELLE BAUMGARTEN

TOUR:

To see a DIAGRAM MAP of this tour just touch the photo in the upper left. It will then fill the screen and morph into a map. Touch that to keep it on the screen, THEN slide a finger from right to left for more photos. Touch in upper left to return to text. Numbers on the Diagram Map correspond to numbers in the text. NOTE that on this map North points towards the right to conserve space.

Begin at the Puchberg-am-Schneeberg Train Station (1), where you purchase your ticket and obtain a seat reservation (platzkarte). 

Those lucky enough to get the steam train should pause a moment to examine the cog-wheel locomotive before boarding. Built in the 1890s, it looks as though the front axles have collapsed, but this peculiar angle relative to the track is to keep the firebox level while climbing the mountain. The engine is at the downhill end of the train to prevent any coaches from giving you an excessively thrilling ride in the event of a coupling failure. Depending on your tolerance for the acrid smell of coal smoke, you may want to ride in the car next to the locomotive so that you can watch the engineer at work.

The faster, more comfortable "Salamander" rack-rail trains are less fun (and rather ugly as well) but still offer the same views.

The first stretch is spent climbing through a forest with ever-changing views of the valley, the mountain huts, and the babbling brooks. This is followed by a scheduled rest stop at the Baumgartner Haus (2), where you can get off for refreshments.

The climb now becomes much steeper, soon passing the timberline and entering a region of Alpine tundra. There are two tunnels in this stretch — those riding the steam train should close the windows quickly when the train enters them or be overwhelmed by its smoke!

The upper station, Hochschneeberg (3), is reached 55 minutes after leaving Puchberg (80 minutes by steam train). Here you should make reservations for the return journey.

Next to the station are sidings where the steam train is parked, awaiting its afternoon trip down. Its fire is kept going, making it fascinating to walk around the black, sooty, hissing beast.

On the other side of the tracks is a rather strange chapel, the Elizabethkirche, which was visited in 1902 by Kaiser Franz Joseph, who came by train.

It is only a short stroll to the Berghaus Hochschneeberg, a sturdy but primitive small hotel that opened when the tracks first reached these heights. Meals and drinks are available here, as are hiking maps (Wanderkarten) of the area.

From the station you can walk along a wide trail with green blazes, going around the Waxriegel summit (6,193 feet or 1,888 meters) and in 15 minutes reach the Damböck Haus (4), a hut maintained by the Austrian Touring Club (ÖTK) that offers cheap meals, rustic Gemütlichkeit, and even overnight accommodations. In the Austrian Alps, hikers do not sleep in tents or carry cooking equipment. Instead, they make use of some 700 such huts. This explains the small rucksacks that Austrian hikers carry in contrast to the huge backpacks common to Americans. The ecological lessons are clear; Austria is a nation of hikers and climbers, yet the mountains remain pristine.

From here it's an hour's hike to the Kaiserstein (5), site of another hut, the Fischerhütte, which at an altitude of 6,760 feet (2,060 meters) is Lower Austria's highest place to eat or sleep. A ridge trail with red blazes leads shortly to the main summit, the Klosterwappen (6), for a magnificent view from a height of 6,811 feet (2,076 meters) of the Pre-Alps as far as Vienna's Wienerwald, and across the Höllental Valley to the Raxalpe and the High Alps.

There are several trail options taking you back to the upper train station, but the easiest, quickest. and safest route is to just retrace your steps.

To see the rest of the trip, with photos and maps, take a FREE download of the entire Vienna Travel app on your iPad or iPhone at Apple's iTunes app store, or a $2.99 download as Vienna & Beyond for Android devices at Google's app store. Here are all the places it can take you to:

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Mariazell, Austria

Here's another sample chapter from my recent guidebook Daytrips Austria:

Trip 10

Mariazell

A Daytrip from Vienna or Graz

Austria's foremost place of pilgrimage, the home of its national shrine, is so beautifully situated that a daytrip there from either Vienna or Graz is worthwhile for the scenic splendor alone. As a bonus, you can visit a magnificent basilica of great religious and historical significance, ride to the top of a mountain for panoramic views, and take a short hike or steam-tram ride to a lovely lake. The town itself is a year-round resort, with many pleasant diversions.

Located in a snug valley between mountains in the northernmost reaches of Styria, Mariazell began its long history as a venerated site on December 21, 1157. According to tradition, that's when five monks set up a lonely priory in the forest, erecting a statue of the Virgin that was soon thought to be performing miracles. A pilgrimage church was built in 1200, and in 1377 the king of Hungary attributed his victory over the Turks to the Virgin of Mariazell, beginning a tide of pilgrimage that has not ceased to this day. For many centuries, it was this cult that enhanced the union of Austria with the Hapsburg dynasty. Today's visitors are drawn not only for devotional reasons, but also for the sheer natural pleasures this small resort offers. Railfans coming by train from Vienna will find this to be a particularly enticing trip.

GETTING THERE:

Trains from Vienna leave the Westbahnhof (West Station) frequently for the 45-minute ride to St. Pölten, where you change to the old narrow-gauge Mariazellerbahn, built in 1905 and still one of the most scenic mountain rail lines in Austria. Trains on this line depart several times in the morning and early afternoon, taking about 2½ hours to reach Mariazell. Return service operates until late afternoon. Check schedules in advance as there may be changes. W: Oebb.at and W: mariazellerbahn.at. Trains from Vienna's Westbahnhof may be moved to the new Hauptbahnhof in 2011 or so.

Trains from Graz leave fairly often for Bruck an der Mur, where you change to a bus for Mariazell, a two-hour ride.

By Car from Vienna, leave on the A-1 Autobahn and head west to the St. Pölten Sud exit, then take the B-20 south into the mountains. Mariazell is 138 km (86 miles) southwest of Vienna.

By Car from Graz, take the A-9 Autobahn north, then the S-35 to Kapfenberg, followed by the B-20 north, a total distance of about 150 km (94 miles).

PRACTICALITIES:

Mariazell flourishes all year round, although a few minor sights are closed in winter. The historic steam tram operates on weekends and holidays, from July through September. The local Tourist Office, T: (03882) 2366, W: mariazell.at, is at Hauptplatz 13, to the left of the basilica. Mariazell is in the Land of Steiermark and has a population of about 2,000.

This trip could be combined in the same day with the one to St. Pölten (page 62).

FOOD AND DRINK:    

Some especially good choices in Mariazell are:

Jägerwirt (Hauptplatz 2, directly across from the basilica) Traditional Austrian fare with an old-fashioned country atmosphere. T: (03882) 23-62. €€

Café Goldener Löwe (Hauptplatz 1a, across from the basilica) Austrian and Italian dishes, indoors or out. Check out the upstairs men’s room. X: Mon. T: (03882) 2444. € and €€

Edelweisshütte (Atop the Bürgeralpe, a short walk from the upper cable-car station past the observation tower) A rustic Alpine retreat with indoor and outdoor tables. T: (03882) 42-55. €

Brauhaus Mariazell (Wiener Strasse 5, just north of the Hauptplatz) Home-brewed beer and local dishes. X: Tues. T: (03882) 4255. €

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

For those coming by train from Vienna, the Mariazell Train Station (1) is a pleasant 15-minute walk along a path marked Bahnhofpromenade into the town proper. Follow Ludwig-Leber Strasse past the parking lot and bus station (for those arriving by bus or car), turning left on Grazer Strasse to the Hauptplatz, or main square. Rising in front of you is the great:

*BASILICA (2), T: (03882) 25-950, W: basilika-mariazell.at. Church open daily 6 a.m.-8 p.m. Free. Treasury open May to late Oct., Tues.-Sat. 10-3, Sun. 11-4. €.

Mariazell’s great basilica grew out of a pilgrimage church of 1200. The present structure dates from the 14th century, but was greatly enlarged and altered during the late 17th century. Its appearance may seem rather strange, what with two squat, bulbous Baroque towers flanking the original Gothic spire and porch. Inside, however, it is a triumph of the Baroque style, resplendent in its elaborate plasterwork and paintings. The main focus of pilgrimage, the *Gnadenkapelle or Chapel of Miracles, is in the center of the nave. A silver baldachin designed in 1727 by J.E. Fischer von Erlach the Younger shelters the original 12th-century statue of the Virgin of Mariazell, or Magna Mater Austriae, the Austrian national shrine. The silver grille around it was donated in 1756 by Empress Maria Theresa.

Beyond this is the High Altar of 1704, a famous creation by Austria's master of the Baroque, J.B. Fischer von Erlach the Elder. The Treasury (Schatzkammer), up a few steps, has a wonderful collection of votive offerings dating from medieval times to the present, along with valuable items of ecclesiastical art.

A path leads uphill from the rear of the church to the Kalvarienberg (Mount Calvary) (3), passing Stations of the Cross and a display of mechanical nativity figurines.

Return to the Hauptplatz and follow Wiener Strasse for two blocks to the lower station of the Bürgeralpebahn Cable Car (4), which quickly lifts you up to the 4,150-foot-high *Bürgeralpe Plateau (5) for a bird's-eye view of the surrounding mountains and lakes. A sham-medieval observation tower, just up the path, allows you to climb above the tree line for an even better look. Several invigorating forest strolls following marked trails can be taken from here. In winter this becomes a popular ski area, especially favored by family groups. Cable car round-trip €€.

Back in town, continue down Wiener Strasse to the Heimatmuseum (Museum of Local History) (6), featuring rustic room settings and folk arts from times gone by. Tours: May-June, Wed. at 2:30, Fri. at 10; July-Sept., Mon., Tues, Thurs., Sat. at 10, Wed. at 2:30, Sun. at 10:30. €€.

The route on the map returns you to the train station in about 10 minutes. From there, you might want to make a side trip of about two miles to the Erlaufsee (7), a lovely lake surrounded by impressive mountains. While this makes an excellent walk, if you happen to come on a weekend or holiday from July through September you could ride there on the delightful *Museumstramweg instead. Running with open cars from the train station to the lake, this claims to be the world's oldest remaining steam tram and, along with the train ride from St. Pö1ten provides a memorable experience. W: erlebnisbahn.at. There is also bus service to the lake. Ask at the tourist office for current schedules for both.

Text and map copyright © 2008 by Earl Steinbicker

 

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The Chiemsee, Germany

From the pages of my guidebooks Daytrips Germany and the more compact Daytrips Bavaria, here's an easy do-it-yourself trip from Munich that features a lake cruise, a ride on a steam train, and a visit to one of Europe's most fabulous palaces — crazy King Ludwig's incomparable Herrenchiemsee.

 

 

Trip 19

The Chiemsee

The enchanting Chiemsee, Bavaria's largest lake, lies just north of the Alps within easy reach of Munich. It was on an island in these idyllic waters that Ludwig II, the unbalanced "Dream King," built a Teutonic version of Versailles as his final castle. He was not the first to appreciate the lonely beauty of this spot, however. As far back as 782 a Benedictine convent was founded on a neighboring island; its 15th-century replacement remains there to this day, as does an old fishing community that is fast becoming a modest resort. Between the nearby town of Prien and the ferry dock a 19th-century narrow-gauge steam train shuttles enthusiastic visitors out for a day of fun, sun, and exploration.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains depart Munich's main station several times in the morning for the one-hour ride to Prien, the starting point of this trip. Return service operates until mid-evening.

By Car, the Chiemsee is 85 km (54 miles) southeast of Munich via the A-8 Autobahn. Use the Bernau exit and follow signs for Prien, parking at the ferry dock.

PRACTICALITIES:

The best time to visit the Chiemsee is between late May and late September, when boats are frequent and the steam train operates. The castle is open daily all year round, except for a few major holidays. Some boats operate during the off-season. Good weather will greatly enhance this trip. The local Tourist Information Office (Kur-und-Tourismusbüro), T: (08051) 690-50, W: prien.chiemsee.de, is at Altes Rathaus Strasse 11, near the train station in Prien.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

Some choice restaurants and cafés are:

AT STOCK-HAFEN:

Reinhart (Seestr. 117, near the pier) Rustic country charm. T: (08051) 694-401. X: Feb.-March. €€

Luitpold am See (Seestr. 110, near the pier) Indoor/outdoor dining by the lake. T: (08051) 609-100. X: Mon. €€

Neuer am See (Seestr. 104, near the pier) Snacks and meals by the lake. T: (08051) 609-960. X: Oct.-April. € and €€

ON HERRENINSEL:

Schlosshotel Herrenchiemsee (by the Altes Schloss) Noted for its fish dishes, also has outdoor tables and a café. T: (08051) 690-30. €€

Café Ludwig II (in the Schloss Herrenchiemsee) Light meals and snacks on the terrace. T: (08051) €

ON FRAUENINSEL:

Zur Linde (near the pier) A gasthof from the 14th century. T: (08054) 903-66. X: Jan. to mid-March. €€

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Begin at the Prien Train Station (1). From there you can get to the ferry pier (Stock-Hafen) by either the 19th-century *Chiemsee Bahn steam train departing from the adjacent station, or by bus, depending on which is running at the moment. Just follow the crowds — they're going to the same place. T: (08051) 60-90, W: chiemsee-schifffahrt.de. €.  A combination round-trip ticket for the steam train or bus plus the ferry rides is available, €€. If you decide to walk, or are driving, just follow Seestrasse for about one mile.

Ferries for the two islands depart from the Stock-Hafen Pier (2), and are timed to meet the arrival of trains and buses. Boat tickets are also sold there.

The Chiemsee (pronounced keem-zay) covers an area of over 31 square miles and has three islands; one of which, Krautinsel, is uninhabited. Of the other two, Herreninsel (Men's Island) has had a monastery since the Middle Ages, and Fraueninsel (Ladies' Island) a nunnery since 782. According to legend, Krautinsel (Vegetable Island) was the spot where the monks and nuns got together, at least to grow veggies.

The boat ride to Herreninsel takes only 15 minutes. Upon arrival at its landing stage (3), purchase your palace ticket (also valid for Altes Schloss) and walk uphill (or take the horse-drawn coach, €) to the 17th-century Altes Schloss (4), once the home of Augustinian canons. There is an attractive outdoor café and restaurant in its precincts. There is also the Museum im Alten Schloss, where the 1,200-year history of the island is recounted. Open daily Apr.-Sept., 9-6; Oct. 10-5:45; Nov.-March 10-4:45. €, included with palace. From here a path leads through the woods, opening suddenly to reveal the palace in all its splendor.

King Ludwig II of Bavaria was just about the strangest monarch ever to rule a European country. Born centuries too late, he lived in a sheltered dreamworld of his own making. In the end, events swept him aside and he died tragically at the age of 40. The legacy he left behind, from the operas of Richard Wagner to the fantastic castles dotting the Bavarian landscape, has, however, greatly enriched all of Western civilization.

Rising before you is the:

*PALACE OF HERRENCHIEMSEE (5), T: (08051) 688-70, W: herren-chiemsee.de. Open April-Sept., daily 9-6; Oct., daily 9:40-5; Nov.-March, daily 9:40-4. Closed Jan. 1, Shrove Tues., Dec. 24, 25, 31. €€.

The Palace of Herrenchiemsee was Ludwig's final paean to an age that vanished long before he was born. Ludwig purchased the island, a religious center until 1803, as the site for his Teutonic Versailles. Louis XIV of France had long been his idol, and he made two visits to Paris to study the palace of the "Sun King." The similarity between the two buildings, while striking, is only superficial — most of the interior decoration at Herrenchiemsee is distinctly German. Construction began in 1878 and continued until 1885, when funds gave out. Ludwig occupied the unfinished Schloss on only one occasion, and then for only 10 days. This was in the fall of 1885. Less than a year later he was deposed, and afterwards found drowned in Lake Starnberg.

The interior of the palace is simply incredible. To see it you will have to join one of the very frequent guided tours, some of which are in English. An illustrated booklet describing the entire palace is available at the entrance, where there is also a small museum devoted to Ludwig's life.

Leaving the palace, walk straight ahead to the Latona Fountain (6), which erupts into jets of water at frequent intervals. From here stroll back to the landing stage and board the next boat for Fraueninsel. Ask to make sure that you are on the right boat, as some go to other points on the lake.

Arriving at the Fraueninsel landing stage (7), recheck the posted schedule to determine just how much time can be spent there. Turn left and walk around the Benedictine nunnery, founded in 782 and rebuilt several times. Its Abbey Church (8), dating from the 13th and 15th centuries and combining Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque elements, is very well worth a visit. W: frauenwoerth.de.

Besides the convent, Fraueninsel is essentially a fishing village, albeit one that is rapidly being taken over by vacationers. A circular stroll around its perimeter reveals an oasis of quiet beauty with a panorama of mountains to the south, a perfect spot to relax at one of the outdoor cafés before returning to Stock-Hafen, Prien, and Munich.

If you have time left in Prien, you might want to visit the town's Folk Museum (Heimatmuseum) in an old farmhouse at Friedhofweg 2, about three blocks west of the train station. Open Wed.-Sat., 10-12 and 2-5, with shorter times in winter. €.

Text, map, and palace photo copyright © 2009 by Earl Steinbicker.

 

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Shanklin, Isle of Wight, England

Here's another sample chapter from my guidebook Daytrips London, Seventh Edition. This has been updated in preparation for an eighth edition due in 2010.

Trip 26

Shanklin

(Isle of Wight)

A Daytrip from London

Just off the southern coast of England lies the Isle of Wight, a delightful island whose bracing air and spectacular scenery combine to form an unusual and very enjoyable daytrip destination. A favorite holiday retreat ever since the days of Queen Victoria, it remains relatively unknown to foreign travelers. Although the Isle of Wight shares a common heritage with the rest of England, its friendly people regard themselves as somehow different from the mainlanders. Here, British sophistication yields to simpler charms and London seems far away.

GETTING THERE:

Trains leave London's Waterloo Station hourly for Portsmouth Harbour Station, the ride taking about 1½ hours. On arrival there, follow the crowds to the pier, a part of the station complex, and board the Wightlink ferry to Ryde. BritRail Passes are not accepted on the boat, so you may have to buy a ticket. Fifteen minutes later you will disembark at Ryde Pier Head. Get on the waiting train marked for Shanklin and take it as far as Sandown, a ride of 17 minutes. You will probably be returning from Shanklin, so be sure to get a round-trip ticket from London to there if you do not have a BritRail Pass. Combined tickets including the ferry, and also for the I.O.W. Steam Railway are available. Check the return schedule on arrival to avoid missing the last evening connection back to London. Rail schedules at W: nationalrail.co.uk. Photo of ferry courtesy of IW Council, www.islandbreaks.co.uk.

By Car, follow the A3 from London to Portsmouth Harbour, a distance of 71 miles. Continue on by passenger ferry and rail or bus, as above. It is impractical to take a car to the Isle of Wight for only one day.

PRACTICALITIES:

The Isle of Wight is most attractive between mid-spring and early fall. Good weather is absolutely essential to enjoyment of this trip.

The local tourist office for Shanklin is at 67 High Street, near the Old Village, T: (01983) 862-942. For the island in general contact Isle of Wight Tourism, County Hall, Newport, I.O.W. PO30 1UD, T: (01983) 813-813, W: islandbreaks.co.uk. Ferry schedules are available at T: (0871) 376-1000, W: wightlink.co.uk. 

FOOD AND DRINK:

Being a popular tourist area, the Isle of Wight is well endowed with restaurants and pubs. Some choice establishments in Shanklin are:

[list is being revised for new edition]

Click on map to enlarge.

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Arriving by ferry at Ryde Pierhead (1), board one of the vintage London Underground cars that serve on the I.O.W. Electric Railway, W: island-line.co.uk, and ride it as far as Sandown Station (2). From there walk straight ahead down Station Avenue and make a right on Albert Road. This leads to The Esplanade, a road built atop a sea wall, which is crowded with vacationers during the season. The beach here is perhaps the best in England, with fine sand and a long, gradual slope. Ahead lies the Pier (3), an attractive modern structure; a stroll to its far end will reward you with a lovely panorama of sea, cliffs, and rolling hills.

Just beyond the pier turn right off The Esplanade and climb Ferncliff Crescent, which begins as steps. At the top make a left into Battery Gardens (4). Amble through this to Cliff Walk and follow the trail that leads to Shanklin. For the next 1½ miles the pathway, sometimes becoming a road, clings to the upper edge of a steep precipice. Far below, tiny bathing huts make a tenuous hold on the narrow strip of sand between sea and cliff. Midway, you will pass the settlement of Lake. Shanklin now opens into view and beyond it lie the hills that define the southern end of Sandown Bay.

 

Photo of Old Village courtesy of IW Council, www.islandbreaks.co.uk

At Shanklin, continue along the Cliff Walk to the Cliff Lift and turn right on Palmerston Road, following it to the center of town. At High Street make a left, passing the tourist office, and step right out of the present century. The Old Village (5), oozing with quaintness, is just about everyone's vision of that imagined England of long ago. Thatched-roof cottages line the streets, many of them now restaurants, pubs, and gift shops. A more romantic place to stop for lunch could hardly be desired.

Continue straight ahead on Church Road to the Old Parish Church of St. Blasius (6), one of the most beautifully situated country churches you'll ever encounter. Architecturally undistinguished and of uncer-tain age — parts of it may date from the 14th century — it nevertheless works a strange charm on the visitor. Be sure to see its interior and graveyard.

Return on Church Road and turn right on Priory Road, then left on Popham Road to Rylstone Public Park (7). This lovely spot of sylvan splendor overlooking the sea is a delight to explore and the perfect place to sit down for a rest.

From here, Chine Hollow leads to the upper entrance of:

*SHANKLIN CHINE (8), T: (01983) 866-145, W: shanklinchine.co.uk. Open April-June, daily 10-5; July to mid-Sept., daily 10-10; mid-Sept. through Oct., daily 10-5. ££. Tea garden. Gift shop.

Once notorious as the haunt of smugglers, Shanklin Chine descends into a deep and narrow ravine with plunging waterfalls. The word chine is peculiar to this area and derives from the Anglo-Saxon cine, meaning fissure. A path leads through the heavily wooded glen, passing a stone bridge, an aviary, a Heritage Centre, and a Victorian tea garden along the way. Following the right-hand trail after a fork near the lower end will reveal traces of Pluto, a secret pipeline built during World War II, which carried fuel from England across the channel to the Normandy beachhead.

At the end, where the stream runs into the sea, turn left and climb up onto The Esplanade, a road along the beach. From here you can follow the map to Shanklin Station (9) and begin the return journey. The nearby lift will save an uphill climb. Runs daily Easter to Oct. If you would rather walk some more, a particularly nice route to follow is along the beach to Sandown. There is a surfaced path going all the way.

 

ADDITIONAL ATTRACTION:

Photo of Steam Railway courtesy of IW Council, www.islandbreaks.co.uk.

I.O.W. STEAM RAILWAY (10), T: (01983) 882-204, W: island-line.co.uk, and click on "Steam Railway" in left column. Operates many days in April and Oct.-Dec.; most days in May-June and Sept.; daily in July-Aug. Check website for exact times and fares, or ask locally. 

Railfans, and many normal people as well, can enjoy a ride on the restored I.O.W. Steam Railway, departing from the Smallbrook Junction station of the I.O.W. Electric Railway, three stops south of the Ryde Pierhead station. This could be done either at the beginning or the end of your Isle of Wight daytrip.

Locomotives on the vintage trains date back as far as 1876; passengers cars from as far back as 1864! A wide variety of antique equipment is used, and rides can be made in either Third or First class — at different prices, of course.

Text and map copyright © 2003 by Earl Steinbicker, updated to 2009.

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Bluebell Railway, England

Railfans Rejoice! One of the world's very best preserved steam railway lines is within easy reach of London, and you can have a fun day riding it. I first visited this line in the summer of 1975 with the idea of filming it for a proposed travel documentary series on cable TV. That fell through, but the idea reappeared in my Great Trips guides in the late 70s, and later in my Daytrips London guidebook in 1982. What follows is from my brand new 2011 Daytrips From London guidebook

 

 

Trip 20

A Daytrip from London

Bluebell

The glorious Age of Steam is alive and well on the Bluebell Railway! People who love old trains will rejoice in this delightful trip as they ride across unspoiled countryside in antique coaches hauled by locomotives that date as far back as 1872.

No mere amusement, the Bluebell was a working standard-gauge branch line from 1882 until 1958, when it closed for economic and political reasons. Preservation by a dedicated band of amateurs began the following year, and since 1960 the railway has become one of the most popular attractions in southeastern England. Being a non-profit organization, staffed largely by volunteers, has allowed it to devote much of its income to improvements. The Bluebell's growing collection of locomotives is equaled only by the National Railway Museum in York. Not only is the rolling stock collection growing, but so is the railway itself as it pushes north to East Grinstead where it will once again connect with Southern main line service to London. It now operates trains as far as Kingscote station, just a mile and a half from the ultimate goal, offering an 18-mile round trip. For a special treat, the Bluebell also features the Golden Arrow Pullman, a train of genuine Pullman cars dating from 1924, which must be booked in advance.

As an extra bonus, the National Trust's magnificent 18th-century Sheffield Park Garden is within easy walking distance of the Bluebell's southern terminus.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains operated by Southern depart London's Victoria Station frequently for the 55-minute ride to East Grinstead. From there, the Bluebell Railway operates bus service 473 to and from Kingscote Station, connecting with Bluebell trains. A joint ticket from London is available. On the few weekends when this is not running you can take public bus 270 from East Grinstead to Horsted Keynes instead, but this is slow and not recommended. NOTE: The extension of Bluebell tracks and rail service to East Grinstead should be completed sometime in 2010 or so, after which the bus will no longer be needed. It is best to check schedules online at SouthernRailway.com or by phone at (08451) 27-29-20. 

By Car, take the A23 and A22 south from London, going past East Grinstead, then the A275 to Sheffield Park Station and do the train trip in reverse as there is no parking at Kingscote. The total distance is about 45 miles. Going by car is preferred as it gives you more scheduling options.

PRACTICALITIES:

Open all year, the Bluebell Railway operates daily from May through October and during local school holidays; and on weekends throughout the year. Sheffield Park Station is open for viewing even when there are no trains running, daily 11 to 4, except Christmas Day. For current schedules check their website at Bluebell-Railway.co.uk or phone (08125) 720-800. For Golden Arrow Pullman information or reservations, T: (01825) 722-801 or check the website.

It's a good idea to check the website prior to your visit as schedules vary quite a bit, and different vintage locomotives and cars are used on different days. This way you can choose a date that features the equipment you're most interested in and, if you're coming by train, a date when the connecting bus from East Grinstead operates.

Fares vary according to distance and class of service, ranging from ₤₤ to ₤₤₤₤ for roundtrips. There is a bargain family rate, and a bargain combination fare that includes transport by rail and bus from London’s Victoria Station. Also offered is a combination ticket with Sheffield Park Gardens, below. BritRail passes are not accepted on the steam line.

The Bluebell Railway is partially handicap accessible, although it is best to inquire in advance about specific needs. Dogs are welcome everywhere except in food service areas, and have their own tickets. Smoking is not allowed anywhere. There is a dress code for Golden Arrow Pullman service.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

Complete inexpensive meals and snacks are available in the Puffers Restaurant (£), and snacks and real ale at the Bessemer Arms Pub (₤), both at Sheffield Park Station. The wonderful Victorian Refreshment Room (£) on platform 2 at Horsted Keynes Station serves draft beer and other beverages along with snacks. With advance reservations, you can dine aboard the luxurious Golden Arrow Pullman (£££).

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

 

Those coming by train will begin at Southern Railway's East Grinstead Station (1). A Bluebell Railway bus leaves from the front of the station, connecting with Bluebell steam trains. This takes you two miles to Kingscote Station (2), built in the Victorian style in 1882, abandoned in 1958, and lovingly restored in 1993. NOTE that by sometime in 2010 or so the Bluebell Railway will extend all the way to East Grinstead, directly connecting there with the Southern Railway from London. 

Board the train and enjoy the nine-mile *ride to Sheffield Park, the southern end of the line. Along the way you will pass the site of the former West Hoathly station before plunging into the half-mile-long Sharpthorne Tunnel (3). Next stop is Horsted Keynes (4) (photo, above), a former junction station where two lines met, and the northern terminus of the Bluebell from 1960 until 1992. There is often activity here as cars are shunted about. The carriage shed is usually busy with restoration projects on the large stock of vintage coaches. Other old cars are parked on sidings near the station; some of these may be inspected.

The journey continues to *Sheffield Park Station (5) (photo, left), the headquarters of the railway. You may visit its locomotive sheds, which house a large collection of steam engines ranging in age from over 130 years old to some built as late as 1958. On the far platform is a museum of railway relics. Those coming by car will begin their trip here at Sheffield Park, doing it in reverse.

While here, you may be interested in taking a half-mile walk to the Sheffield Park Garden (6), a lovely place with rare trees and shrubs spaced among four lakes at different levels. It was laid out by the famous landscape architect Capability Brown during the 18th century and is especially noted for its rhododendrons and azaleas in May and June, as well as for its water lilies, daffodils, bluebells, gentians, and autumn colors. T: (01825) 790-0231, W: nationaltrust.org.uk. Open March-Dec., Tues.-Sun. 10:30-5:30 or dusk; Jan.-Feb. weekends only, 10:30-4 or dusk. Open Bank Holiday Mondays. Last admission an hour before closing. ££.

Text and maps copyright © 2011 Earl Steinbicker.

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Railfan Adventures

 

A growing number of postings on this blog describe intriguing journeys by historic trains in both Europe and the U.S.A., along with visits to train museums and model exhibitions. Here they are, just click to open them:

 

Bluebell Railway, England: Europe's largest standard-gauge preserved all-steam railway offers a wide variety of experiences. A daytrip from London.

Ffestiniog Railway, Wales: A narrow-gauge steam ride through the mountains of North Wales, for visitors to that land or a very long daytrip from London.

Hoorn, Holland: Ride an ancient steam train across the North Holland landscape, then travel by boat on the IJsselmeer. A daytrip from Amsterdam.

I.O.W. Steam Railway, England. A small country line on the Isle of Wight, with equipment dating back as far as 1876.

Mariazell, Austria. Get there on a very old narrow-gauge mountain rail line, then visit the lake on the world's oldest remaining steam tram.

Miniatur-Wunderland, Germany. The world's greatest model train exhibition is in Hamburg, Germany.

My N-Gauge Railway Model: Re-creating the German Railways in miniature.

New York City's High Line: The trains no longer run, but the tracks are still there, right next to the new elevated hiking trail that cuts through Manhattan's Lower West Side.

Rocky Mountain Ski Train: Ride high through the Rockies from Denver to Winter Park.

Romney, Hythe & Dymchurch Railway, England: Ride a miniature steam train to a seaside nuclear station, a daytrip from London.

York, England: Home of the National Railway Museum, considered to be the best train museum anywhere. Get there from London by High Speed rail.

Schneeberg, Austria: Ride up Vienna's "Snow Mountain" on a narrow-gauge rack-rail steam train, then hike to the summit for a view.

Spa Valley Railway, England. Ride 3.5 or more miles through the Kentish countryside in ancient coaches hauled by primitive steam engines. Board at Royal Tunbridge Wells, a short ride from London.

Strasburg, Pennsylvania, U.S.A: Ride the Strasburg Rail Road behind steam, visit the state train museum, and have fun at the model train exhibition. A daytrip from Philadelphia.

Var Valley, France: Leave Nice on a narrow-gauge commuter train that takes you along a narrow valley into the lower Alps.

Lansdale, Pennsylvania, U.S.A. Memories of the former Liberty Bell Limited, an interurban trolley car that ran from Allentown to Philadelphia from 1900-1951.

More coming, stay tuned.

 

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Nuremberg, Germany

Here is another complete daytrip chapter from the pages of my latest guidebook, Daytrips Germany, Seventh Edition. This same chapter also appears in Daytrips Bavaria, a more compact guide. Enjoy:

Trip 15

*Nürnberg

(Nuremberg)

A Daytrip from Munich

 

 Often regarded as the most German of German cities, Nürnberg makes a fascinating daytrip destination whose very name recalls a contradiction of images. It is at once the perfect medieval city, the toy capital of the world, the setting for Wagner's incomparable opera "Die Meistersinger, " and a charming center of intellect and culture. Yet, Nürnberg was the place chosen by Hitler for the infamous Nazi rallies of the 1930s, and the city that lent its proud name to the despicable laws of racial purity. In retribution, it was practically leveled during World War II, and is still best known for the war-crime trials held there after the collapse of the Third Reich. Since then, the old part of town has been largely restored to its former appearance so that it at least looks ancient. It is commonly known in English as Nuremberg.

Not really old as medieval cities go, Nürnberg was founded around 1050 as a military stronghold by Emperor Heinrich III. With the downfall of the Imperial House of Hohenstaufen in the 13th century it became a free city, fortunately located at the junction of several important trade routes. During this period the arts flourished with such local talents as Albrecht Dürer and Hans Sachs. Prosperity came to an end with the Thirty Years War, when Nürnberg's population and wealth declined greatly. It was not until the Industrial Revolution of the 19th century that the city, by now a part of Bavaria, regained its prominent position in German affairs.

Nürnberg is also a good base for excursions to Würzburg, Bamberg, Bayreuth, Regensburg, or even Rothenburg.

GETTING THERE:

Trains depart Munich's main station at least hourly for Nürnberg, less than 100 minutes away by ICE Express, or a bit longer by ordinary trains. Return service operates until mid-evening.

By Car from Munich, take the A-9 Autobahn 165 km (103 miles) north to Nürnberg.

 PRACTICALITIES:

Several of Nürnberg's best attractions are closed on Mondays. Good weather is not essential for this trip as much of the time is spent indoors. There is a local Tourist Information Office at Königstrasse 93, across from the Handerkerhof, T: (0911) 233-6132, and a branch office at Hauptmarkt 18, T: (0911) 233-6135. For further information contact the Congress-und-Tourismus Zentrale, T: (0911) 233-60, W: nuernberg.de. Nürnberg has a population of about 494,000. 

FOOD AND DRINK:

The local specialty is Bratwurst, those little sausages that taste better here than anywhere else. Nürnberg is also noted for its Lebkuchen cookies, excellent Franconian wines, and superb beer. Among the choice restaurants are: 

Essigbrätlein (Weinmarkt 3, a block west of St. Sebaldus Church) Modern and traditional local cuisine in elegant, ancient surroundings. Dress nicely and reserve, T: (0911) 225-131. X: Sun., Mon. €€€

Nassauer Keller (Karolinenstr. 2, opposite St. Lorenz Church) Traditional cuisine in the cellar of a 13th-century house. T: (0911) 225-967. X: Sun. €€ and €€€

Heilig Geist Spital (Spitalgasse 12, on the Pegnitz River) An authentic wine tavern, very popular with tourists for its inexoensive lunches. T: (0911) 221-761. € and €€

Bratwurst Häusle (Rathausplatz 1, across from the Old Town Hall) A boisterous, fun place for grilled sausages and sauerkraut. T: (0911) 227-695. X: Sun. €

Bratwurstglöcklein (in the Handwerkerhof by the Königstor) A rustic place for bratwurst, sauerkraut, potato salad, and beer. T: (0911) 227-625. X: Sun., holidays. €

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Begin your walk at the main train station (Hauptbahnhof) (1). From here use the underground passageway to reach the Königstor (2), a part of the massive old fortifications. These walls, constructed over a period of centuries, remain intact today and give Nürnberg a medieval appearance that is largely missing from other major German cities. The main tourist office is across the street. Next to the tower is an entrance to the Handwerkerhof, a courtyard of small shops where present-day craftsmen carry on in the medieval tradition. You may want to return here later. Stroll along Königstrasse to the St.-Lorenz-Kirche (St. Lawrence's Church) (3). Built in the 13th and 15th centuries, this is the city's largest house of worship. It contains some remarkable works of art, including the 16th-century *Annunciation by Veit Stoss that hangs suspended in the choir. Other pieces to look for are the tabernacle by Adam Kraft, to the left of the high altar, and the wonderful stained-glass windows in the choir. 

Opposite the front of the church is the tower-like Nassauer Haus, parts of which date from the early 13th century. It is reputed to be the oldest dwelling in town, and now houses a delightful restaurant. Continue along Königstrasse, here reserved for pedestrians, to the Museum Bridge. To your right is one of those wonderful scenes so typical of Nürnberg. The Heilig-Geist-Spital (4), a 14th-century almshouse spanning the Pegnitz River, still serves its original purpose and also contains a very popular Weinstube and restaurant.

You are now only steps from the Hauptmarkt (main market place) (photo, above)  (5), an open area usually filled with farmers' stalls. The traditional Christkindlesmarkt is held here each December for the sale of toys and ornaments. W: christkindlesmarkt.de. Facing the east side of the square is the 14th-century Frauenkirche (Church of Our Lady), which provides a free spectacle every day at noon in the form of mechanical figures acting out the story of the Golden Bull of 1356. Step inside to see the famous Tucher altarpiece from 1440. 

One of the best-known sights in Nürnberg is the *Schöner Brunnen (Beautiful Fountain) (photo, above) in the northwest corner of the square. Dating from the 14th century, it is decorated with 40 sculpted figures arranged in four tiers, and surrounded by a 16th-century wrought-iron grille. Now walk up to the Altes Rathaus (Old Town Hall) (6), where you can take a gruesome tour through the 14th-century dungeons (Lochgefängnisse) and visit the torture chamber. T: (0911) 231-26-90, W: museen.nuernberg.de. Open mid-April through Oct., Tues.-Sun. 10-4:30; Feb. to mid-April and Nov.-Dec., Mon.-Fri. 10-4:30. €.

St.-Sebaldus-Kirche (St. Sebald's Church) (7) was begun in 1225, making the transition from the Romanesque to the Gothic style. On the outside of its choir, facing the Old Town Hall, is the magnificent Schreyer-Landauer tomb of 1492 by Adam Kraft. Enter through the west portal and visit the *Shrine of St. Sebaldus, a wonderful 16th-century brass sculpture containing the silver coffin of Nürnberg's patron saint. There are several other exceptional works of art, including a sunburst Madonna on a north aisle pillar, a Crucifixion group by Veit Stoss near the main altar and, in the south aisle, a stone sculpture by Adam Kraft of Christ bearing the Cross.

A climb up Bergstrasse leads to the:

*ALBRECHT DÜRER HOUSE (8) (photo, right), T: (0911) 231-25-68, W: museen.nuernberg.de. Open March-Oct., Tues.-Sun. 10-5, until 8 on Thurs., also on Mon. in July-Sept.; Nov.-Feb., Tues.-Fri. 1-5, weekends 10-5. €€.

This is where the great artist lived from 1509 until his death in 1528. The first three floors are open as a museum, and give a good impression of the surroundings in which he lived and worked. Of particular interest is the original kitchen, a replica of his printing press, and copies of his works. The picturesque square next to this has some attractive outdoor cafés.

Follow the map uphill and through a garden to an opening in the town wall, from which you will have a marvelous *view of the square. Return through the garden and stroll past the Fünfeckiger Turm (Pentagonal Tower), which dates from the 11th century and is regarded as the oldest structure in Nürnberg. Adjoining this are the Imperial Stables, used as a youth hostel. You are now within the precincts of:

*NÜRNBERG CASTLE (9-10), T: (0911) 225-726, W: kaiserburg-museum.de. Open April-Sept., daily 9-6; Oct.-March, daily 9-4. €€.

Nürnberg Castle was the residence of all acknowledged German kings and emperors from 1520 to 1571. Continue on to the 13th-century Sinwellturm (9), a massive round tower that may be climbed for the best possible panoramic view of the city. Close to this is the Tiefer Brunnen (Deep Well), a source of water since the earliest days. It, too, may be visited.

The major part of the castle, the Kaiserburg (10), was begun in the 12th century, although most of what you see today dates from the 15th and 16th centuries. There are frequent guided tours through its Gothic interior visiting, among other rooms, the interesting 12th-century chapel, a double-deck affair where emperors worshipped above the heads of lesser folk.

Walk down and turn right on Burgstrasse. This leads to the Fembo Haus (11), an excellent museum of life in old Nürnberg, located in a well-preserved Renaissance mansion. Be sure to see the large model of the Old City with its introductory sound-and-light show. If you have an hour to spare, there is also a multimedia extravaganza called Noricama. T: (0911) 231-2595, W: museen. nuernberg.de. Open Tues.-Fri. 10-5, weekends 10-6. Museum €, Noricama €, discount combo ticket available.

The route again passes Stl. Sebald's Church, then follows Weinmarkt and Karlstrasse to the:

*SPIELZEUG MUSEUM (Toy Museum) (12). T: (0911) 231-3164, W: museen.nuernberg.de. Open Tues.-Sun. 10-5, also open Mon. during Christkindlesmarkt and toy fair. €.

A wealth of delightful playthings from all over the world is on display, ranging from simple dolls to elaborate model railway setups. Toys have been a major Nürnberg industry for centuries, making a visit here especially appropriate.

Continue on to the Maxbrücke (13), a bridge with stunning views up and down the Pegnitz River. The large half-timbered structure to your left, the Weinstadel, was built in 1446 as a home for lepers. Later used for wine storage, it is now a residence for university students. Adjacent to this is the Wasserturm, a part of the older 14th-century fortifications. From here the Pegnitz is spanned by a covered wooden footbridge called the Henkersteg, or hangman's bridge, to whose solitary dwelling it led. To the right, the view of the medieval walls arched over the river is equally engaging.

Follow the map past the 15th-century Unschlitthaus (14), a former granary, and through a more modern part of town to the formidable:

GERMANISCHES NATIONAL MUSEUM (Germanic National Museum) (15), T: (0911) 133-10, W: gnm.de. Open Tues.-Sun. 10-5, staying open until 9 on Wed. €.

Dedicated to the many aspects of German art and culture from prehistoric times to the 21st century, this vast treasure house requires several hours to see properly.

Railfans and kids, as well as some otherwise normal people, will really enjoy a visit to the:

VERKEHRSMUSEUM (Transportation Museum) (16), Lessingstrasee 6, T: (0911) 219-2428, W: dbmuseum.de. Open Tues.-Sun. 9-5. €.

This superb museum's collection of old trains features the Adler, the first locomotive to operate in Germany, and "mad" King Ludwig II's incredible private cars. Three floors of exhibits are almost entirely devoted to railroading, with a special treat being the huge model train layout (Modellbahn), which runs hourly on the half-hour. There is an inexpensive cafeteria with local dishes and drinks served in a 19th-century machine shop setting. From here it is only a short walk back to the station.

ADDITIONAL ATTRACTIONS:

Those lucky enough to stay overnight in Nürnberg have plenty of other sights to take in. Here are some particularly worthwhile sights:

Documentation Center — Nazi Party Rally Grounds (Reichsparteitagsgelände) — The eerie and somehow terrifying grounds of Dutzendteich, in the southeastern fringes of the city, was once the scene of Hitler's most infamous Nazi rallies — immortalized in Leni Riefenstahl's 1936 film, Triumph of the Will. Part of this is now a gripping exhibition on the ruthless misuse of power under National Socialism. The nearby Zeppelinwiese field is where those overblown, Wagnerian, quasi-religious ceremonies took place; today it is used mostly by skateboarders. T: (0911) 231-56-66, W: museen.nuernberg.de. Take tram 9 or bus 36 to Luitpoldhain, or tram 4 or commuter train S-2 to Dutzenteich, or bus 55 or 65 to Dolku-Zentrum. Open Mon.-Fri. 9-6, Sat.-Sun. 10-6. €.

Justizgebäude — This is where the Nazi era ended in the famous Nuremberg Trials of 1946, which sent ten leaders to the gallows for their crimes against humanity. Now restored to its original state, the courtroom is still in use but open to visitors on weekends. T: (0911) 231-54-21. Fürther Strasse 110, Bärenschanzstrasse entrance. Take subway U-1 or U-11 to Bärenschanze. Open Sat.-Sun. 10-6. €.

Neues Museum — Nürnberg's new museum of modern art and design occupies a stunningly transparent structure just east of the Germanic National Museum (15). T: (0911) 240-200, W: nmn.de. Open Tues.-Fri. 10-8, Sat.-Sun. 10-6. €.

Jüdisches Museum Franken — Nearby Fürth was once a major center of Jewish life in Germany. This heritage is celebrated through exhibitions of its history in Franconia from the Middle Ages to the present. T: (0911) 770-577, W: juedisches-museum.org. Königstrasse 89, Fürth. Take subway U-1 to Fürth-Rathaus. Open Tues.-Sun. 10-5, remaining open on Tues. until 8. €.

Copyright © 2009 by Earl Steinbicker 

 

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JimThorpe, Pennsylvania

Here's another inexpensive daytrip from my homestate that is easily made from the Philadelphia area, the Lehigh Valley, or even New York. It is taken from my guidebook Daytrips Pennsylvania Dutch Country & Philadelphia, which I plan on revising soon. This entry has been updated to late 2008. 

Trip 25

 Jim Thorpe

 Jim Thorpe, as the historic town of Mauch Chunk is now known, lies within easy daytrip range of Philadelphia and is a unique place well worth the journey.It takes its name from the great Native American athlete who astonished the world with an unprecedented record-breaking performance at the 1912 Olympics. Jim Thorpe was not born here, nor did he ever pass through here while he was alive. The story of how the town came to be named for him is a story of hard times: hard times for the man, who was unfairly stripped of his Olympic medals (since restored) on a technicality, and hard times for Mauch Chunk (the Indian name for "Bear Mountain") and East Mauch Chunk, booming coal and railroad towns in the 19th century, declining and economically strapped in the 20th. In 1953 Jim Thorpe died in poverty after a long, painful illness, and his wife sought to have him buried with a public memorial in his home state, Oklahoma. Oklahoma said no. Hearing of the plight of Mauch Chunk, Mrs.Thorpe proposed to lend the town her husband's name in return for their assistance in memorializing him. Though the towns had been squabbling for years, their citizens were inspired by this idea, transcended their differences, and merged to become Jim Thorpe, Pennsylvania.

    The town of Jim Thorpe lies at the bottom of a gorge on the Lehigh River, flanked by sheer mountainsides, in a region sometimes known as the "Switzerland of America." The town's appearance is as fascinating as the story of its name. In its heyday it spawned a slew of self-made millionaires who built the palatial residences and impressive public buildings you'll see on your walk. They were also responsible for Mauch Chunk's once being a popular summer resort, and for the railroading heritage that is still so much alive today.

GETTING THERE:

    By Car, Jim Thorpe lies about 81 miles northwest of downtown Philadelphia. Take the Pennsylvania Turnpike Northeast Extension (I-476) north to Exit 74, then US-209 South in a westerly direction through Lehighton into Jim Thorpe. Park by the train station for your walking tour of the town.  

PRACTICALITIES:

    Most of the attractions are open daily from Memorial Day through September or October, but be sure to check the individual listings and their websites to be sure.The Pocono Mountains Visitors Bureau office is in the train station, T: 1-800-762-6667, W: 800poconos.com.  Some other helpful websites are: www.jimthorpepa.com, www.jimthorpe.org, and www.visitjimthorpe.com.  

FOOD AND DRINK:

    Emerald Restaurant & Molly Maguires Pub (24 Broadway) Irish-American and Continental cuisine in an authentic setting. T: 570-325-8995. $$

    JT's Steak & Ale House, Hotel Switzerland (5 Hazard Square) This old Victorian establishment features American cuisine. T: 570-325-4563. $ and $$

    Black Bread Café (47 Race St.) Sandwiches and vegetarian fare for a healthy lunch. T: 570-325-8957. $

 SUGGESTED TOUR:

    Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

    Downtown Jim Thorpe, a.k.a. Old Mauch Chunk, is best explored on foot. Begin your walk at the Jersey Central Railroad Station (1)(photo, top of page), a splendidly Victorian structure of 1888 that once welcomed hordes of tourists to the "Switzerland of America." Although regular passenger service ceased in 1954, vintage train rides are still offered on weekends and holidays from mid-May through late December. Lehigh Gorge Scenic Railroad, T: 570-325-8485, W: www.lgsry.com. The former Men's Waiting Room (there was another one for the ladies!) is now the local Tourist Office, where you can get information.

    Follow the map up Packer Hilll to the nearby:

*ASA PACKER MANSION (2) (photo, above), Packer Hill, Jim Thorpe PA 18229, T: 570-325-3229, W: www.asapackermansion.com. Open day after Memorial Day through Oct., daily 11-4:15; April to late May and Nov.-early Dec., weekends 11-4:15. Adults $8, seniors $7, students $5, 5 and under free.

    Asa Packer (1805-79) came to Mauch Chunk in 1833 and soon grew rich producing coal boats for the Lehigh Canal. By mid-century he had switched to railroading by raising the necessary funds to build the Lehigh Valley Railroad, a line running from Mauch Chunk to Easton that eventually stretched from the Canadian border to New York City, carrying coal as well as passengers. One of the wealthiest men in the country at that time, Packer was as much a philanthropist as a tycoon. He founded Lehigh University in Bethlehem, served two terms as a U.S. Congressman, served in the state legislature and as a county judge, and once ran for governor.

    Asa Packer built this magnificent Italianate mansion overlooking Old Mauch Chunk (and his beloved railroad) in 1861, living there for the rest of his life. His daughter, Mary Packer Cummings, continued to live in it until her death in 1912, bequeathing the house and its furnishings to the Borough of Mauch Chunk and its successors. What you see today is not a restoration; it is the real thing, existing just as it was when the Packers lived there.

    Among the highlights you'll see on the tour are the office with a desk that supposedly once belonged to Robert E. Lee, a parlor of true Victorian splendor, a main hallway filled with Gothic art, a sitting room with fabulously handcarved woodwork, and a dining room with stained-glass windows.

    Head downhill and turn right onto Broadway, soon passing what was once Mauch Chunk's "Millionaires Row." Although few of the people who built these houses were actually millionaires, they were wealthy by the standards of the late 19th century, having gained social and economic prominence from their roles in the coal, lumber, and transportation industries. The Mauch Chunk Opera House, built in 1882, is still used as a theater and for various events including performances by leading pop stars. A bit farther along, the Mauch Chunk Museum (3), housed in the county's oldest church, traces local history with working models and other displays. 41 West Broadway, T: 570-325-9190, W: www.mauchchunkmuseum.com. Open weekends April to Memorial Day, Tues.-Sun. Memorial Day through Oct., and weekends Nov.-New Years Day; 10-4. Adults $5, children under 8 $2.

 

     Continue up to the Old Jail (4)(photo, above), an 1871 penal facility that remained in use until 1995. It was here that seven of the "Molly Maguires," a gang of labor organizers, were hanged in 1877 and 1878 after a mockery of a trial. Be sure to see the mysterious "handprint-on-the-wall" that supposedly proves the innocence of the last man to be hanged here. At one time the jail boasted two gallows, one indoor and one outdoor, so bad weather was never an obstacle to justice. Highlights include 28 cells, a dungeon, the warden's apartment, and the gallows. 128 West Broadway, T: 570-325-5259. Tours: Memorial Day weekend through Labor Day, daily except Wed., noon-4:30; Sept. and Oct., weekends only, noon-4:30. Adults $5, seniors & students $4, children 6-12 $3.

     Return on Broadway and turn right to Race Street, known for its Stone Row (5) (photo, left). This group of 16 row houses was built by Asa Packer for the engineers and foremen of the Lehigh Valley Railroad. Individualized with bay windows, balconies, and door styles, the houses were built of stone for fire prevention purposes. Today they are occupied by artisans, serving as studio, display, and residential space. Below this stands St. Mark's Episcopal Church (6), a Gothic Revival structure of 1869. Built into the hillside, this remarkable stone church contains some real art treasures, including early stained-glass windows by Louis C. Tiffany. There is also an ornate baptismal font with great gas standards representing the flames of the Holy Spirit, replicas of the altar and reredos in Windsor Castle, England, and a gold-and-silver alms basin set with jewelry.

    Back near the train station is the Old Mauch Chunk H.O.-Scale Model Train Display (7), featuring over a dozen trains racing along some 1,100 feet of track lined with some 200 tiny buildings and crossing a hundred bridges. 41 Susquehanna St., T: 570-325-4371, W: www.omctraindisplay.com. Open complex schedule, check website or call. Adults $4, seniors $3, children $2.

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS:

    Across the river on Route PA-903 (North Street) stands the Jim Thorpe Mausoleum (8), the final resting place of the renowned athlete. It is inscribed with the words spoken by Sweden's King Gustav as he presented Jim Thorpe with the gold medals at Stockholm's 1912 Olympics: "Sir, you are the greatest athlete in the world."

    The Lehigh River offers some terrific whitewater rafting. If you want to shoot the rapids, try Jim Thorpe River Adventures (T: 570-325-2570 or 1-800-424-RAFT, W: www.jtraft.com) or Pocono Whitewater Rafting (T: 1-800-WHITEWATER, W: www.whitewaterrafting.com). Both firms also offer mountain and rail/trail bicycling and other outdoor adventures. 

    Feel like going underground? The No. 9 Coal Mine & Museum offers tours through the world's oldest continuously-operated anthracite coal mine (1855-1972) in nearby Lansford, just off Route 209, about 8 miles west of Jim Thorpe. For information T: 570-645-7074, W: www.no9mine.tripod.com. 

    There's also recreation at man-made Mauch Chunk Lake three miles west of town, and a great view from Flagstaff Mountain Park, some 1.400 feet above it. Railfans and hikers might also explore the bed of the historic Switchback Gravity Railroad, completed in 1827 as the first of its kind in America. Closed in 1933 and scapped in 1937, it is now being considered for restoration as a tourist attraction. For current information contact the Switchback Gravity Railroad Foundation at W: www.switchbackgravityrr.org. 

Copyright © 2000 by Earl Steinbicker, updated to 2008.

 

 

 

 

SO, just what Little Adventure am I up to now in 2013? Why, just the most challenging one of them all! CLICK HERE TO FIND OUT.

 

 

That's me at the station, Fall 2008 (photo, above).

 

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