A Daytrip From Italy's Florence

LUCCA, ITALY

Heading for Italy? Going to Florence? Don't miss this easy one-day adventure from the pages of my guidebook Daytrips Italy: 40 One Day Adventures by Rail, Car or Bus

Often overlooked in favor of the more famous towns of Tuscany, Lucca is a refreshing escape from the tourist hordes and yet remains every bit as fascinating as the rest. It is completely encircled by massive 16th-century ramparts that offer delightful opportunities for strolls with a view. The streets within the well-preserved medieval center are both level and uncrowded, making this one of the most eminently walkable of cities. Although it has no major tourist sights, such as Pisa's Leaning Tower, Lucca is filled with a magical charm that never fails to enchant discriminating visitors.

Originally settled by the Ligurians and later the Etruscans, Lucca became a Roman colony in 180 BC. Despite incessant wars with Pisa and Florence during the Middle Ages, the town has always been prosperous, a happy situation reflected in its splendid buildings. In 1805 Napoleon gave it to his sister as a principality, and in 1847 it was incorporated into the Grand Duchy of Tuscany, soon to become part of the Kingdom of Italy.

This trip could be combined in the same day with one to Pisa, just 22 km (14 miles) away, as there is excellent transportation between the two towns. If you do this, you may prefer to visit Lucca first.

GETTING THERE:

Trains, mostly bound for Viareggio, depart Florence's main station several times in the morning. The average time to Lucca is about 80 minutes. Return service operates until mid-evening. Most trains are second-class only but largely uncrowded, except when the Florentines are heading for the beach. There is also good train service between Lucca and Pisa.

Buses leave from the Lazzi terminal just opposite the east side of the main train station in Florence. The ride to Lucca takes about 90 minutes. Buy your ticket before boarding. The bus station in Lucca is at Piazzale Verdi at the west end of the ramparts.

By Car, Lucca is 74 km (46 miles) west of Florence via the A-11 Autostrada. Park by the train station (1), or at Piazzale Verdi, and don't attempt to drive in the old part of town.

PRACTICALITIES:

Lucca may be enjoyed at any time, but remember that its major museum is closed on Mondays and some major holidays. The local Tourist Office, T: 0583-442-944, is at Piazzale Verdi, by the bus station. Two good websites to check are Welcome Tuscany and In Lucca.

FOOD AND DRINK:

The restaurants of Lucca offer unusually good dining for your money. Some excellent choices on or near the walking route are:

Buca di Sant' Antonio (Via della Cervia, near Piazza San Michele) Regarded as the best restaurant in Lucca; features Tuscan cuisine. T: 0583-558-81. X: Sun. eve., Mon., mid-July. €€€

Antica Locanda dell' Angelo (Via Pescherie 21, a block southeast of Piazza San Michele) A nice, quiet restaurant with outdoor tables in season. T: 0583-477-11. X: Sun. eve., Mon. €€€

Da Giulio (Via delle Conce 45, 3 blocks northwest of the National Gallery) Very popular with the local crowd, an exceptional value. Reserve, T: 0583-559-48. X: Sun., Mon. €€

Osteria Baralla (Via Entiteatro 5-9, by the Roman Amphitheater) Traditional Tuscan cuisine, a local favorite. T: 0583-440-240. X: Sun. € and €€

Girovita (Piazza Antelminelli 2, by the Cathedral) Both vegetarian and carnivorous dishes are featured. T: 0583-469-412. X: Mon. €

Da Leo (Via Tegrimi 1, 2 blocks north of San Michele in Foro) A good value for local specialties. T: 0583-492-236. X: Sun. €

Pizzeria Centro Storico (Via San Paolono, by the Palazzo Mansi) Pizza by the slice, plus other simple dishes. T: 0583-492-09. €

There are two good local wines, the red Colline Lucchesi and the white Montecarlo. Lucca is world famous for its superb olive oil.

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leaving the Train Station (1), follow the map through the Porta San Pietro gate and into the Old Town. Via Vittorio Veneto leads to the main square, Piazza Napoleone, dominated on the west by the handsome 16th-century Palazzo della Provincia (or Ducale). Continue on to the:

*CATHEDRAL OF ST. MARTIN (Duomo di San Martino) (2). Open Mon.-Fri. 9-6, Sat. 9-7, Sun. 9-9:50, 11:30-11:50, 1-5:45. Free. Sacristy open Mon.-Fri. 9:30-4:45, Sat. 9:30-6:45, Sun. 9-9:50, 11:30-11:50, 1-5:45. Sacristy €.

Lucca's intriguing 11th- to 13th-century Romanesque structure appears to be leaning against its bell tower. Its richly decorated façade with three tiers of arches somewhat resembles that of Pisa, although a top pediment was never added.

The interior, built in the Gothic style during the 14th century, has a fine inlaid marble floor. The cathedral's greatest treasure, from a religious point of view, is the *Holy Face (Volto Santo), a wooden effigy of Christ on the Cross housed in its own little temple in the middle of the north aisle (photo, right).

There is an utterly fantastic story associated with this, one that drew pilgrims to Lucca for many years. According to this legend, the figure was carved by Nicodemus shortly after the Crucifixion, and remained hidden for centuries. Through a vision, an Italian bishop found it in Lebanon and cast it adrift on an unmanned boat. Miraculously, it appeared off the Italian shore at Luni, near La Spezia. Naturally, there was a dispute as to which town got it. To solve this, the Crucifix was placed on a cart drawn by two untamed oxen who would go wherever God willed them. They went to Lucca. The flaw in the tale is that the figure seems to be of 11th-century origin. In any case, the people of Lucca love their statue and honor it with an evening procession every September 13th. The temple that houses it was built in 1484 by Lucca's own Matteo Civitali.

The cathedral has several other art treasures, foremost of which is the celebrated Tomb of Ilaria del Carretto, an early 15th-century masterpiece by Jacopo della Quercia in the Sacristy. To the right of this, in a chapel, is a famous painting of the Madonna with St. Stephen and St. John the Baptist. Returning towards the west end, the third chapel in the south aisle has a marvelous Last Supper by Tintoretto. Just before exiting, note the sculpture near the center door of St. Martin and the Beggar.

Just across the street is the Cathedral Museum (Museo della Cattedrale), where more of its religious treasures are displayed. T: 0583-490-530. Open April-Oct., daily 10-6; Nov.-March, daily 10-3. Closed Jan. 1, Easter, Dec. 25. €.

Now wind your way through the ancient streets to a most peculiar sight, the 14th-century Guinigi Tower (3). There is nothing unusual about medieval Italian town palaces with towers, but this one is topped by full-grown trees and, what's more, you can climb up (230 steps) and sit in the shade under them (photo, above). The *view is absolutely marvelous and well worth the effort. T: 0583-316-846. Open March-Sept., daily 9-8; Nov.-Feb. 9-5:30. €.

Continue on, following the map, past the 13th-century Church of Santa Maria Forisportam, so named because it was then outside the gate of the original Roman walls. Via del Fosso, divided by a small canal, is all that remains of a medieval defensive moat (photo, left). Stroll along it to the statue of the Madonna atop a column, then turn right on Via della Quarquonia.

The National Museum, housed in the impressive 15th-century Villa Guinigi (4) just outside the Old Town, contains a rich collection of art and artifacts. The ground floor rooms are filled with Roman, Etruscan, and even Ligurian items found locally, along with Lucchese sculpture from the 8th through the 14th centuries. The painting galleries, upstairs, include among their treasures two large major works by Fra Bartolomeo. There is also some interesting furniture, textiles, and inlay work. T: 0583-496-033. Open Tues.-Sat. 9-7, Sun. and holidays 9-2. Closed Mon., Jan. 1, Dec. 25. €.

Retrace your steps and continue on to Via dell' Anfiteatro, which follows the walls of the Roman Amphitheater (5), or what's left of it. Built in the 2nd century AD to house ten thousand spectators, the area becama a quarry after the fall of the Empire, many of its stones being used in church construction. Some remained, however, and medieval dwellings were built incorporating the original walls with newer masonry. As you walk down the street you will be able to pick out clearly the Roman stones and arches from the later fabric. Enter the first archway into Piazza del Mercato, an outdoor market place in the center of the former arena. The atmosphere here is charged with ancient memories, especially after the last vegetable sellers have gone home.

The Church of Saint Frediano (6), nearby, was built in the 12th century on the site of a 6th-century basilica. Its rather austere façade is topped with a wonderful mosaic depicting Christ and the Twelve Apostles. Inside, there is a magnificent 12th-century font in the right aisle, carved with the story of Moses, the Good Shepherd, and the Apostles. The Trenta Chapel, on the left, has some fine reliefs by Jacopo della Quercia. Also on the left aisle is the Chapel of St. Augustine with a fresco illuminating the transport of the Holy Face to Lucca, a legend you already came across on your visit to the cathedral.

Just a few steps away stands the elegant 17th-century Palazzo Pfanner (7), a luxurious villa filled with period furnishings. Its former owner, one Felix Pfanner, introduced beer to the wine-drinking Italians, a heritage from his native Austria. The magnificent 18th-century statuary gardens should not be missed. T: 0583-491-243. Open March to mid-Nov., daily 10-6, and on other dates by reservation. €.

Now follow the map down Via Fillungo, a narrow pedestrian street steeped in the atmosphere of the Middle Ages. The Torre delle Ore, a 13th-century clock tower on the left, is one of the few medieval towers to survive in a town once full of them. This, too, may be climbed. T: 0583-316-846. Open March-April, daily 10-6; May-Sept., daily 10-7; Oct.-Feb., daily 9-5:30. €.

A right on Via Roma brings you to the Piazza San Michele, a large open square on the site of the Roman Forum. Note the Renaissance loggia of the Palazzo Pretorio at the southwest corner. The *Church of San Michele in Foro (8) has an absolutely marvelous oversized façade (photo, right), easily the most impressive in town. Crowned with an enormous statue of the Archangel Michael, it was built in the 13th century for a planned enlargement of the 12th-century church — which never took place. Step inside to see, on the first altar on the south side, the terracotta Madonna and Child by Andrea della Robbia and, in the north transept, a panel painting of Four Saints by Filippo Lippi. Open daily 8-noon and 3-6.

It is now only a few steps to the House of Giacomo Puccini (9) on Via di Poggio. Born here in 1858, the renowned composer studied music in Lucca before moving on to Milan. Opera lovers will, of course, want to go upstairs to see the small museum devoted to his life. Among its treasures is the very piano used by Puccini in composing his masterpiece, Turandot. T: 0583-584-028. Open June-Sept., daily 9-6; Oct.-Dec. and mid-March to May, Tues,-Sun. 10-1 and 3-6. €.

Continue straight ahead to the National Gallery (Pinacoteca Nazionale) (10) in the 17th-century Palazzo Mansi. Its sumptuous interior houses an excellent collection of paintings, primarily from the Renaissance through the 19th century. T: 0583-555-70. Open Tues.-Sat. 8:30-7, Sun. 8:30-1:30. Closed Mon., Jan. 1, May 1, Dec. 25. €.

Now wander past the bus terminal at Piazzale Verdi and head straight uphill onto the 16th-century *fortifications that encircle the Old Town. These tree-shaded ramparts offer wonderful views as well as a delightful route back to the train station.

Text and map copyright © 2005 by Earl Steinbicker.

 

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Comments

[Davei]

Excellent Lucca piece. It brought back lots of good memories of my week there in the seventies.

Don't forget the Luigi Boccherini Conservatory, named after another of Lucca's famous musical sons. Boccherini (1743-1805) was a moster of the pre-classical sonata and wrote hundreds of pieces for string quintet and sextet.

[Montanaandy]

Wish I had known about your book before my recent trip to Italy (Florence & Rome). The crowds in Florence at the major attractions were depressing. A day trip to Siena was OK but it too was very crowded. Lucca sounds like what we were looking for in Siena but did not find. Oh well, there is always next time.