Taken directly from the 2006 edition of my guidebook Daytrips Holland, Belgium & Luxembourg, here's a most enjoyable Little Adventure that can easily be done from Amsterdam in a single day. Enjoy!
Additional sample chapters from the same book are also on this blog:
And on my publisher's blog:
Volendam, Marken & Edam, Holland
Trip 4
Hoorn and the Historic Triangle
Here is an easy and thoroughly enjoyable daytrip that is just filled with sun and fun. You can travel by train or car to the historic port of Hoorn, then ride an ancient steam train through the lovely North Holland landscape to Medemblik, where you board an excursion boat to Enkhuizen. From there it's a short train ride back to Hoorn, a most delightful place to explore on foot.
Known as the "Historic Triangle" (Historische Driehoek), this rich argricultural area is loaded with memories of the former Zuider Zee, the arm of the North Sea that became the landlocked IJsselmeer. Many of its traditions may be probed at the Westfries Museum in Hoorn, while the magnificent and truly fascinating outdoor museum at Enkhuizen — described in the next chapter — brings the rural past to life. This later attraction could be included on this trip instead, by cutting both walking tours short and eliminating the museum in Hoorn.
First settled in the early 14th century, Hoorn was a major port for international trade until the late 17th century. It gave its name to Cape Horn, the southernmost tip of South America, which was discovered in 1616 by the locally-born navigator Willem Schouten. This was an important center of the Dutch East Indies Company, which brought about the prosperity so clearly seen in the town's many old buildings. Alas, as trade increased, so did the draught of the ships needed to carry the goods. The local waters are relatively shallow and subject to silting, and so the maritime trade gradually moved to deeper ports. One of the most attractive towns in Holland, Hoorn thrives today as a regional shopping and yachting center.
GETTING THERE:
Trains, marked for Enkhuizen, depart Amsterdam's Centraal Station at half-hour intervals for the 36-minute ride to Hoorn. Return service operates until late evening.
By Car, the most attractive route to follow from central Amsterdam is through the Ij Tunnel, then the N-10 and N-247 roads north by way of Edam to Hoorn. It may be slightly faster to take the A-7/E-22 motorway instead. In either case, the distance is about 40 km (25 miles).
PRACTICALITIES:
This trip may be taken on any day during July and August, on Tuesdays through Sundays during April-June and September-October, or on weekends during January-March and November-December. The "Historic Triangle" steam train and boat combination does not operate at other times. To avoid disappointment you should check first with the information office in Amsterdam's Centraal Station, or with the museum in Hoorn. Good weather is essential, as is an early start — around 8 a.m. at the latest.
The Tourist Office in Hoorn, T: (072) 511-4284 (toll call), W: vvvhoorn.nl, is at Veemarkt 4, three blocks south of the train station. Current schedules for the "Historic Triangle" combination can be had at T: (0229) 214-862.
FOOD AND DRINK:
Snacks and drinks are available on both the steam train and the boat. Restaurant choices for Enkhuizen are noted in the next chapter. Some good restaurants in Hoorn are:
Brasserie Bontekoe (Nieuwendam 1, near the Binnenhaven) Tavern cuisine in a 17th-century warehouse. T: (0229) 217-324. €€
De Waag (Rode Steen 8, near the Westfries Museum) Light lunches, plus full French and seafood specialties in the evenings. T: (0229) 215-195. € and €€
Azië (49 Veemarkt, a block south of the train station) Superb Chinese cuisine, with a good-value lunch. T: (0229) 218-555. € and €€
SUGGESTED TOUR:
Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.
Begin your tour at the Hoorn Train Station (1), where you cross a pedestrian bridge over the tracks to the:
*MUSEUM STOOMTRAM HOORN-MEDEMBLIK (Museum Steam Train) (2), T: (0229) 214-862. Operates daily July-Aug.; Tues.-Sun. in April-June and Sept.-Oct.; and on weekends in Jan.-March and Nov.-Dec. Closed on some holidays. Combination steam train and boat fare €€€€.
There is a great deal of intriguing activity here as locomotives and open-ended cars, some a century old, are shunted about. Buy a combination ticket for the *steam train and boat (combi stoomtram + boot) and study the printed schedule (in English) carefully. These rides are privately operated and are not covered by any railpass.
You will probably have time before departure to enjoy visiting the yards and special steam exhibitions. No one seems to mind your walking around on the tracks or even in the train sheds and machine shops. This is a very popular outing with Dutch families, so expect to run into hordes of little children.
Now board the ancient train and take delight in the passing countryside. The ride to Medemblik takes about one hour, and there is a primitive bar car to help you pass the time. Upon arrival at Medemblik Station (3), walk straight ahead down the main street to the harbor (4), where you will find the large excursion boat (probably the M.S. Friesland) that will take you to Enkhuizen. This delightful cruise on the IJsselmeer tales about 75 minutes. Again, snacks and drinks are available.
From the Enkhuizen Pier (5) it is only a few steps to the train station, where there are frequent trains back to Hoorn. While here, however, you might want to explore one or more of the outstanding attractions this town is famous for. You will find a full description of these, along with a map, in the next chapter. Remember that a stop here will most likely eliminate the possibility of a visit to the Westfries Museum in Hoorn.
Return to Hoorn by train and begin your walking tour of the old port town by following the map to the Town Hall (Stadhuis) (6), a lovely twin-gabled building from 1613. Continue down Nieustraat past the enormous Grote Kerk, a 19th-century church that has been strangely converted into shops. Kerkstraat leads to Rode Steen, the town's main square (photo, below). Named after the red stone that was once a place of public execution, this large open square is surrounded by exquisite old buildings.
One of these structures, the highly-ornate 17th-century Staten College (State Council) is now the home of the Westfries Museum (7). Step inside to witness the wealth this town once possessed. Sumptuous furniture, paintings, weapons, ship models, and anything else associated with the history of the region — they're all there, all displayed in elegant surroundings. T: (0229) 280-028. Open Mon.-Fri. 11-5, Sat.-Sun. 2-5. Museum Cards accepted. €.
On the opposite side of the square is the Waag, an especially nice weighhouse from 1609. Stroll down Grote Oost past the Oosterkerk, a Gothic church founded in 1450. Its stained-glass window from 1620 depicts a famous naval battle. Turn right at Slapershaven and amble along the picturesque harbor, busy with pleasure boats. The early-16th-century Hoofdtoren (8) was a part of the old fortifications and sports a delicate belfry from 1651. From here you may want to just wander around and soak up the delicious atmosphere before returning to the train station and Amsterdam.
ADDITIONAL ATTRACTION:
Hoorn has another nearby museum that might interest you. The Museum van de Twintigste Eeuw (Museum of the Twentieth Century) celebrates a hundred years of local life at Bierkade 4. T: (0229) 214-001. Open Tues.-Fri. 10-5, Sat.-Sun. noon-5. €.
Text, maps & B&W photos copyright © 2006 by Earl Steinbicker. Partially updated to 2007, with new color map drawn for this blog.
Interested in photography? Check out my "Assisting Avedon" blog.
SO, just what Little Adventure am I up to now in 2013? Why, just the most challenging one of them all! CLICK HERE TO FIND OUT.
RETURN to Sample Daytrips Chapters Index
CHECK OUT Daytrips Holland, Belgium & Luxembourg by clicking on its name in the box below, or on the Buy button to purchase:
Comments