Off to Amsterdam? Want to visit some real working windmills? Why not take this easy, short little daytrip to nearby Zaanse Schans — as described in my guidebook about the Benelux countries, Daytrips Holland, Belgium & Luxembourg.
Trip 6
Zaanse Schans
You don't have to go far from Amsterdam to see working windmills in a setting of preserved quaintness. The Zaanse Schans is an extremely popular destination for visitors in search of a bit of Oud Holland, all neatly packaged and ready to be enjoyed. At first, this may seem like the ultimate Dutch tourist trap, but it can also be a lot of fun and should not be missed.
As the Zaan region, just northwest of Amsterdam, developed industrially its traditional buildings were in danger of being lost forever. Fortunately, some of Holland's precious heritage was saved in the 1950s by the Zaanse Schans Foundation, which moved an assortment of old windmills, houses, and other interesting structures to a 20-acre site on the banks of the Zaan River. Restored to their 18th-century appearance, the houses are not just an outdoor museum — indeed, most of them are actually lived in today, bringing real life to what would otherwise be only another tourist attraction. Some of the working windmills as well as all of the craft shops and small museums may be visited.
This trip can easily be combined in the same day with one to Alkmaar, described in the next chapter. They are both on the same rail line.
GETTING THERE:
Trains, bound for Alkmaar, depart Amsterdam's Centraal Station at frequent intervals for the 16-minute ride to Koog-Zaandijk, which is just a short walk from the site. Be sure to get on a local train (stoptrein). Return service operates until late evening.
By Car, leave Amsterdam via the Coen Tunnel and take the A-8 and A-7 motorways past Zaandam in the direction of Purmerend, then follow signs to Zaanse Schans. The total distance from central Amsterdam is 16 km (10 miles). Parking at the site is free for the first 30 minutes, then € for the next hour and €€ thereafter.
PRACTICALITIES:
The Zaanse Schans site is always open, and admission to it is free. Most of the attractions there are open Tuesdays through Sundays, with some also open on Mondays. The hours from March through October are 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. During the winter most sights are open only on weekends. If you combine this daytrip with Alkmaar, you may prefer to go on a Friday, in which case you should see Alkmaar first.
For further information contact the site's Visitor Center, T: (075) 616-8218. Practical information is available at W: zaanseschans.nl. Windmill fanciers might check out W: zaansemolen.nl.
FOOD AND DRINK:
Two good places to eat within the Zaanse Schans site are:
De Hoop Op d'Swarte Walvis (along Kalverringdijk, the main street) Superb French dining in an 18th-century house. Reservations preferred, T: (075) 616-5629. X: Sat. lunch, Sun. lunch. €€€ and €€€+
De Kraai (at the east end of the site) All sorts of pancakes, some with meat or cheese, along with sandwiches and drinks. Self-service in a colorful old warehouse, outdoor tables available. T: (075) 615-6403. X: winter. €
SUGGESTED TOUR:
Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.
Begin at the Koog-Zaandijk Station (1) and follow the signs to Zaanse Schans, a walk of about ten minutes. Those coming by car should park at the eastern end of the site itself and adjust the walk accordingly.
Kalverringdijk is the main street of the village. On the left as you enter there is an attractive French-style garden with a small tea pavilion, now a Pewter Shop in which visitors can watch pewter objects being handcrafted. The house next to it was originally a workshop from the 17th century, and now houses a fascinating Clock Museum (2), where you can examine antique timepieces from around the world and particularly from this part of Holland. T: (075) 617-9769. €. Museum Card holders free.
Adjacent to this is a 19th-century Grocery Store (3), operated as a small museum. Step inside to see (and smell!) how food was sold in the days before supermarkets. Continue on past several other old houses and the noted restaurant "De Hoop Op d'Swarte Walvis," an 18th-century structure once used as an orphanage. Near the end of the row is Het Noorderhuis (4), a merchant's house built in 1670. Its interior is filled with antique room settings complete with figures in period costumes, and may be visited. T: (075) 617-3237. €, Museum Card holders free.
Boat Trips on the Zaan River, going past a nice variety of windmills and lasting about 50 minutes, may be taken from the Pier (5). T: (075) 614-6762. Operates March through Oct., Tues.-Sun. €. Close to this is an 18th-century windmill, De Huisman, first built to grind snuff and later used for making mustard. A shop inside sells the mustard in an assortment of lovely containers.
From here, a row of windmills stretches along the river. The first of these, De Poelenburg, was built in 1869 to saw wood. €. A much older one, called *De Kat (6) and originally built elsewhere in the region in 1696, still grinds pigments for paints. You are welcome to climb all over its interior and watch the process at work. T: (075) 621-0477. €. Beyond it is a mill used to extract oil from grains. Known as De Zoeker (7), it is also open to visitors. T: (075) 628-7942. €. Another mill that can be visited is De Bonte Hen, just to the north. The mills extending beyond this are in various states of reconstruction.
Return to the village and turn left on Zeilenmakerspad (Sailmaker's path). Passing the oldest house at Zaanse Schans, built for a Zaandam merchant in 1623 and now home to an antiques shop, you will soon come to the Bakery (8). Beginning as a private house in 1658, it was converted to make bread in 1753 and is now restored as a small museum. Note the outdoor toilet over a ditch in its rear — those canal waters were not always so clean!
On your left is the Cheese Farm (9), where they sell good homemade cheese. Yes, you can taste some. Continue on past the small drainage windmill, which still functions, and cross a tiny lift bridge. You are now at the eastern end of the site, where a café and self-service restaurant occupies a complex of old structures, along with gift shops. The Wooden Shoe Workshop (10) is sure to have a pair of clogs in your size, should you feel so inclined.
Beyond this, across the parking lot, stands the striking new Zaans Museum. Here the whole saga of Europe's oldest industrial area comes to life through artifacts, reconstructions, videos, and other modern presentations. T: (075) 616-2862. Open Tues.-Sat. 10-5, Sun. noon-5. €, Museum Cards accepted. Café.
Return via a path called De Kwakels, along which is an old shipyard. It is now only a short walk back to the station or parking lot.
Copyright © 2006 Earl Steinbicker.
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