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Trip 14
Dover
For over two thousand years the fabled White Cliffs of Dover have marked the gateway to England. Iron Age man settled these shores, and so did the Romans, who built their port of Dubris here in AD 43. Strategically, Dover is of paramount importance to Britain, being the closest point to the Continent and only 22 miles from France. A great fortress inevitably rose on this site, defending the island nation right down to modern times. Today, the massive 12th-century castle is a major tourist attraction that’s well worth the daytrip itself, while the harbor it overlooks is the busiest passenger port in England.
GETTING THERE:
Trains to Dover's Priory Station operated by Southeastern leave at least hourly from Victoria station in London, with a journey time of nearly two hours. Be sure to board the correct car as some trains split en route. There is also slower service from London's Charing Cross station, requiring a change enroute. Return service operates until mid-evening.
By Car, Dover is 74 miles (118 km) southeast of London by way of either the A2 and M2 highways, or the A20 and M20 highways.
PRACTICALITIES:
Good weather is essential for this largely outdoor trip, especially for the maritime views for which you might want to bring along binoculars. The Castle is open every day except on Tuesdays and Wednesdays from November through January, and on Christmas Day, Boxing Day, and New Year's, but the Roman Painted House is closed in winter and on Mondays.
The local Tourist Information Centre, T: (01304) 205-108, W: whitecliffscountry.org.uk, is in the Old Town Gaol on Biggin Street, in the town center. Dover is in the county of Kent, and has a population of about 34,000.
FOOD AND DRINK:
Cullins Yard (11 Cambridge Rd., by the harbor, between Marine Parade and the Prince of Wales Pier) Mostly seafood, with a wide beer selection and a boat-shaped bar. T: (01304) 211-666, W: cullinsyard.com. ££
Dino's Italian Restaurant (58 Castle St., near the Market Square) Good Italian cooking at modest prices. T: (01304) 294-678, W: dinosrestaurant.co.uk. X: Mon. ££
La Salle Verte (14/15 Cannon St., near the Dover Museum) Light meals, sandwiches and snacks, served woth organic coffee or tea. T: (01304) 201-547, W: lasalleverte.co.uk. £
Inexpensive cafeteria meals are available at the castle.
SUGGESTED TOUR:
Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.
From Priory Station (1) you can either take a bus direct to the castle or follow the map into town. Here, at the Bus Station (2), you can get a ride up to the castle, perched dramatically atop a nearby hill. It is also possible to get there by taxi or car, or even on foot if you don't mind the stiff climb.
*DOVER CASTLE (3-4), T: (01304) 201-628, W: English-heritage.org.uk. Open Apr.-July, daily 10-6; Aug., daily 9:30-6; Sept., daily 10-6; Oct., daily 10-5; Nov.-Jan, Thurs.-Mon. 10-4; Feb.-March, daily 10-5. Last admission one hour before closing. Closed Dec. 24-26 and New Year’s Day. £££. Snack bar. Gift shop.
Dover Castle is by far the finest and most fascinating military structure in England. While essentially of Norman construction, parts of it date from Saxon and even Roman times. Brutally strong, its 20-foot-thick walls have withstood sieges during its entire history. Begin your visit with the mighty Keep (3), surrounded by a defensive curtain wall. Built in 1180 by Henry II to replace earlier structures, the keep has been continually modified down through the centuries. You can easily spend hours exploring the many rooms and passageways, and examining the exhibitions displayed there — including re-creations of the Siege of 1216 and preparations for the arrival of Henry VIII and the Tudor Court. Be sure to get up to the roof, from which there is a fabulous *view extending all the way to France in clear weather. A visit to the Underground Works beneath the castle is well worth the effort, although it involves some steep climbs. The entry to this tunnel system is just outside the keep, and an audio guided tour is available.
The existence of a maze of secret tunnels used in World War II was declassified in 1986, and parts of the subterranean labyrinth later opened to visitors. Known as the *Secret Wartime Tunnels, the complex is shown on tours that include control rooms, a hospital, and an opening in the side of the White Cliffs from which Winston Churchill watched the Battle of Britain — made all the more realistic with sounds, smells, and audiovisuals.
More of the castle's past can be seen by strolling over to the Pharos (4) (photo, right), a Roman lighthouse erected in the 2nd century AD to guide the Imperial Navy into port. This is the tallest surviving Roman structure in Britain. Directly adjacent to it stands the Saxon Church of St. Mary de Castro, which was heavily restored during the 19th century. Although its exact age is unknown, parts of it may date from as far back as the 7th century. From here you might want to amble around the outer ramparts before leaving the precincts. Don't miss Queen Elizabeth's Pocket Pistol, a 24-foot-long cannon presented to Henry VIII.
Return to the town by bus or, since it is downhill, on foot. Just follow the path opposite the bus stop, which leads through Victoria Park. Laureston Place and Castle Hill Road will bring you to Castle Street, at the end of which is the Market Square, built over the site of the ancient Roman harbor. From there take King and Bench streets to Marine Parade.
There are splendid views of the harbor from Marine Parade (5), but for an even better look you should walk out on the Prince of Wales Pier (6), which offers wonderful panoramas of the famous White Cliffs. From here you can watch the comings and goings of the speedy SeaCats and leisurely ferries. No quick trip through the Channel Tunnel will ever match the experience of a genuine sea voyage to the Continent.
Return to Market Square and the:
DOVER MUSEUM & BRONZE AGE BOAT GALLERY (7), T: (01304) 201-066, W: dovermuseum.co.uk. Open Mon.-Sat., 10-5:30; also Sun. from April through Aug., noon-5. Closed Dec. 25-26 and Jan. £.
Dover’s Roman history is explored in an archaeological gallery on the ground floor, which also includes finds from an Anglo-Saxon cemetery. Upstairs, there are special exhibitions and artifacts of local history from 1066 to the present day. The center of attraction, though, is the world’s oldest seagoing boat, built some 3,550 years ago and discovered in a Dover dig in 1992. Along with this is a re-created full-scale Bronze Age home, many treasures from that time, and interactive computers that allow you to build your own boat and see if it survives a Channel crossing.
Nearby, on New Street, is the Roman Painted House (8). Britain's answer to Pompeii, this excavated 2nd-century town house has lovely painted walls and an intact underfloor heating system. T: (01304) 203-279. Open April-Sept. Tues.-Sat. 10-5, also on Sun. from April-Aug., noon-5; and on Bank Holiday Mon. in July-Aug. £.
Now follow Cannon Street and Biggin Street to the Tourist Office (9) in the Old Town Gaol by the historic Town Hall. St. Edmund's Chapel (10) on Priory Road is on the way back to the train station. Dating from the 13th century, it ceased religious services in 1544 and was later used as a forge. In 1968 the tiny wayside chapel was re-consecrated and is thought to be the smallest in England in regular use.
Text, B&W photos, and map copyright © 2003 by Earl Steinbicker, updated to 2009.
Color photo by Remi Jouan, used under GNU Free Documentation License.
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