Another selection from my travel guidebook Daytrips London is this easy and very popular outing to one of the grandest of grand palaces anywhere — Blenheim, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill.
Trip 38
Woodstock
Blenheim Palace is the attraction that brings thousands of visitors from all over the globe to the ancient town of Woodstock. One of the greatest of England's stately homes, it was built in the early 18th century as a fitting tribute to John Churchill, the first duke of Marlborough, who routed the French and Bavarians at the Battle of Blenheim in 1704. Before this, the vast property on which it sits was a royal hunting preserve. A manor house existed on the site since at least the time of Æthelred the Unready, everyone's favorite Saxon king. Henry I made great improvements, and his mansion remained a residence of royalty down through Tudor days. By the time Blenheim Palace was built, however, the old structure had almost fallen to ruin and all traces of it were demolished.
Woodstock itself originally grew up to service the royal manor. Several inns were established for this purpose, and today continue to provide hospitality to the many visitors who come to see Blenheim Palace. There is also a fine museum of rural life, an interesting church, and lovely old streets lined with picturesque buildings.
GETTING THERE:
Trains depart London's Paddington Station frequently for the one-hour trip to Oxford, where you change to local bus S3. Train schedules at W: firstgreatwestern.co.uk. There is also excellent bus (coach) service from London's Victoria Coach Station to Oxford, taking about 1½ hours, W: oxfordtube.com. Local buses leave from various points in Oxford, including the train station. This service changes frequently, so check with the Oxford Tourist Centre (see page 000) for current details. The bus ride from Oxford to Woodstock takes less than 30 minutes. Schedules at W: stagecoachbus.com/timetables/S3.
By Car, Woodstock is 64 miles northwest of London. Take the A40 and M40 to Oxford, then continue on the A44 to Woodstock.
PRACTICALITIES:
Blenheim Palace is open daily from mid-February through October, and on Wednesdays to Sundays from November until mid-December. Fine weather will make this trip much more enjoyable. Some online information is available at W: woodstock-oxfordshire.com. Woodstock is in the county of Oxfordshire, and has a population of about 3,000.
FOOD AND DRINK:
The town of Woodstock has quite a few inns, pubs, and restaurants, including:
Feathers (Market St.) Elegant, dressy dining with French overtones in a small hotel. For reservations T: (01993) 812-291. £££
The Bear (Park St.) A coaching inn from the 16th century. T: (0870) 400-8202. £££
Brothertons Brasserie (1 High St.) Light meals with a creative touch. T: (01993) 811-114. £ and ££
Black Prince (Manor Rd., just north along Oxford St.) A popular local pub with good food. T: (01993) 811-530. £
Blenheim Palace offers several places for a full meal or just a snack, including an inexpensive cafeteria.
SUGGESTED TOUR:
Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.
Begin your visit at the bus stop (1) on Oxford Street opposite the Marlborough Arms Hotel and follow the map down Market and Park streets to the entrance of the Blenheim Palace grounds. The Triumphal Arch (2), designed in 1723 by Nicholas Hawksmoor as a monument to the first duke of Marlborough, is a fitting introduction to so grandiose a place. On your right is a lake created in 1764 by the renowned landscape architect Lancelot “Capability” Brown.
*BLENHEIM PALACE (3), T: (01993) 811-325, W: blenheimpalace.com. Open mid-February through Oct., daily 10:30-5:30; November through mid-December, Wed.-Sun. 10:30-5:30. Last admission at 4:45. £££. Park open all year, daily 9-5. Park only ££. Frequent events. Food service.
Blenheim Palace has been continuously occupied by the dukes of Marlborough since it was begun by Sir John Vanbrugh in the early 18th century as a gift from Queen Anne. Sir Winston Churchill, grandson of the seventh duke, was born here in 1874 and is buried nearby at Bladon Church. There is an exhibition of his personal belongings in the palace, which remains home to the present (11th) duke. To see its magnificent interior you can either take one of the frequent guided tours, lasting about an hour, or wander through on your own.
Be sure to explore at least part of the palace grounds after seeing the interior. The Butterfly House, where exotic tropical butterflies live in a virtually natural habitat, is another attraction included in the entrance fee. You can get to it by miniature railway or on foot. Close to this is the Marlborough Maze (4), the world's largest symbolic hedge maze.
A pleasant way to return to Woodstock is to follow the route on the map (photo, above). The Grand Bridge (5), an extravagant span over what was then only a creek, was part of Vanbrugh's original design. Most of it is now under water. The land just beyond it was the site of the old Woodstock Manor, for centuries a country residence for England's kings and queens.
Back in the village, stroll down Park Street and visit the small but interesting Oxfordshire Museum (6), which features displays of local life through the centuries along with temporary exhibitions. It is located in the historic Fletchers House, which also has a small Tourist Office and a coffee shop. T: (01993) 811-456, W: oxfordshire.gov.uk/the_oxfordshire_museum.
The town stocks (image, right), outside the museum, have holes for five legs. Was this a joke or did Woodstock have an unusual number of one-legged culprits? The Church (7) is often overlooked but is actually a fascinating study in changing styles, ranging from Norman to Perpendicular. Beyond this, the village offers several interesting shops and some very appealing pubs in which to relax.
Text and map copyright © 2009 by Earl Steinbicker.
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An UPDATED version of this trip is featured in my new Daytrips From London guidebook.
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