Life's Little Adventures

Daytrips From London

Oh, happy day! The first copy of my new guidebook just arrived from the printer, and it's all I hoped for. The operative word in the title — and what distinguishes it from my earlier books about England — is "From." This time I've eliminated the walking tours inside London in order to make space for new discoveries within daytrip range of the city. These include a preserved 19th-century canal village where you can ride a canal boat, take a waterside walk, visit the National Waterways Museum, or just watch the activities from a canalside café. Another is to a highly secret World War II military intelligence center where the Nazi codes were cracked and early computers developed. A third features a secluded 14th-century moated manor house, Winston Churchill's country estate, and one of the greatest of England's stately homes, along with the optional opportunity for real country walks. Then there's that Thameside village just west of London long favored by leading artists, and where the Keeper of the Royal Swans pursues his strange and uniquely British ceremonial duties.

 

 CLICK HERE for Free Sample Chapters!

 

RETURN to Current Main Page

RETURN to Daytrips Category

This book is also available from Amazon Great Britain for £13.50, or Amazon in Europe for €15.50.

 

Our Studio, Part XXIII

A few weeks ago I was reminiscing about the times in 1968 when my business partner Jim Houghton and I did photographic assignments for Time-Life Books, and especially about our photo essay on the power brokers, movers and shakers in Washington D.C. Completed over a period of several days, it covered no fewer than 63 individuals spread over some 13 pages. This book, The District of Columbia — The Seat of Government, and another one that we did on the Middle Atlantic States were part of the TIME-LIFE Library of America series. Since I haven't seen these books, or even any of the photos, in about 35 years, I did a Google search and found a used copy on Amazon for a mere $4. Here's the story behind it:

 

Photos above are of, left to right, Senate Minority Leader Everett Dirksen, Senate Majority Leader Mike Mansfield, Speaker of the House John McCormack, and House Minority Leader Gerald Ford.

  

For our first book in in the Time-Life Library of America series, on the Middle Atlantic States, we opted to use a large 8x10 view camera outdoors, emulating the work of Richard Avedon — whom both of us had assisted a few years earlier. This time, however, we chose to use handheld Mamiyaflex TLR cameras loaded with 120 Tri-X film, and portable strobe lights. Since this equipment was small, instead of driving we flew down on the wonderful old Eastern Shuttle, which required no reservations, used old Elektra turboprops, and left from LaGuardia Airport in New York. At Washington National Airport we rented a car, drove to a Holiday Inn in Arlington VA, and then set off for the first sitting in the Capitol Office buildings. This was of the Agricultural Committee, who claimed that this was the only time ever that every member showed up!

 The next day we were to work in the Capitol Building itself, so we drove there and looked for a place to park. The most convenient spot was right under the Capitol steps, from which a door led to where we were going. I doubt if you could get away with this today, what with security precautions, but no one bothered us and we left the car there until late afternoon. The most memorable session that day was of the House Minority Leader, Gerald Ford, who engaged me in a long conversation about building a home darkroom. This was before he became President.

Security was also rather lax at the White House, where we drove right in and parked at the door to the West Wing. A guard did check our papers, but never inspected the vehicle or its contents. Actually, President Johnson was out of town at the time, and we were to photograph his special assistant, Joseph Califano, who was called the "Deputy President for Domestic Affairs" by the New York Times. After we finished, he showed us into the Oval Office for a quick look around. I was sorely tempted to liberate a souvenir, but didn't.

Photos on the right are of Presidential Special Assistant Joseph Califano and his staff.

Now I'm interested in finding the other book in the series, as well as the one we did for Time-Life on gardening.

Photos and book text copyright © 1968 Time Inc., used non-commercially under Fair Use Doctrine to illustrate my story.

Blog text copyright © 2010 by Earl Steinbicker

Interested in photography? Check out my "Assisting Avedon" blog.

SO, just what Little Adventure am I up to now in 2012? Why, just the most challenging one of them all! CLICK HERE TO FIND OUT.

 

RETURN TO Our Studio Index.

RETURN TO Current Main Page.

New York 400

I've just found the most marvelous picture book ever about my favorite place, New York City. 480 pages of oversize drawings, paintings, maps, posters, playbills, music sheets, photographs and assorted artifacts — all beautifully printed on heavy stock in a hardbound coffee table book  — chronicle the entire history of the metropolis from its beginning in 1609 right up to the present in 2009. This is an absolute must for anyone who loves the city.

And it's a bargain! 

Even at the list price of $40.00 it's more than worthwhile, but Amazon (bless them) has it for only $21.60 (and eligible for free shipping).

New York 400 was created from the vast archives of The Museum of the City of New York, whose mandate is to explore the past, present, and future of the Big Apple. You can read all about it, along with reviews, by clicking on its name in the box below.

 

Interested in photography? Check out my "Assisting Avedon" blog.

RETURN to Life's Little Adventures blog.

SO, just what Little Adventure am I up to now in 2013? Why, just the most challenging one of them all! CLICK HERE TO FIND OUT.

 

Woodstock, England

Another selection from my travel guidebook Daytrips London is this easy and very popular outing to one of the grandest of grand palaces anywhere — Blenheim, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill.

Trip 38

Woodstock

Blenheim Palace is the attraction that brings thousands of visitors from all over the globe to the ancient town of Woodstock. One of the greatest of England's stately homes, it was built in the early 18th century as a fitting tribute to John Churchill, the first duke of Marlborough, who routed the French and Bavarians at the Battle of Blenheim in 1704. Before this, the vast property on which it sits was a royal hunting preserve. A manor house existed on the site since at least the time of Æthelred the Unready, everyone's favorite Saxon king. Henry I made great improvements, and his mansion remained a residence of royalty down through Tudor days. By the time Blenheim Palace was built, however, the old structure had almost fallen to ruin and all traces of it were demolished.

Woodstock itself originally grew up to service the royal manor. Several inns were established for this purpose, and today continue to provide hospitality to the many visitors who come to see Blenheim Palace. There is also a fine museum of rural life, an interesting church, and lovely old streets lined with picturesque buildings.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains depart London's Paddington Station frequently for the one-hour trip to Oxford, where you change to local bus S3. Train schedules at W: firstgreatwestern.co.uk. There is also excellent bus (coach) service from London's Victoria Coach Station to Oxford, taking about 1½ hours, W: oxfordtube.com. Local buses leave from various points in Oxford, including the train station. This service changes frequently, so check with the Oxford Tourist Centre (see page 000) for current details. The bus ride from Oxford to Woodstock takes less than 30 minutes. Schedules at W: stagecoachbus.com/timetables/S3.

By Car, Woodstock is 64 miles northwest of London. Take the A40 and M40 to Oxford, then continue on the A44 to Woodstock.

PRACTICALITIES:

Blenheim Palace is open daily from mid-February through October, and on Wednesdays to Sundays from November until mid-December. Fine weather will make this trip much more enjoyable. Some online information is available at W: woodstock-oxfordshire.com. Woodstock is in the county of Oxfordshire, and has a population of about 3,000.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

The town of Woodstock has quite a few inns, pubs, and restaurants, including:

Feathers (Market St.) Elegant, dressy dining with French overtones in a small hotel. For reservations T: (01993) 812-291. £££

The Bear (Park St.) A coaching inn from the 16th century. T: (0870) 400-8202. £££

Brothertons Brasserie (1 High St.) Light meals with a creative touch. T: (01993) 811-114. £ and ££

Black Prince (Manor Rd., just north along Oxford St.) A popular local pub with good food. T: (01993) 811-530. £

Blenheim Palace offers several places for a full meal or just a snack, including an inexpensive cafeteria.

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Begin your visit at the bus stop (1) on Oxford Street opposite the Marlborough Arms Hotel and follow the map down Market and Park streets to the entrance of the Blenheim Palace grounds. The Triumphal Arch (2), designed in 1723 by Nicholas Hawksmoor as a monument to the first duke of Marlborough, is a fitting introduction to so grandiose a place. On your right is a lake created in 1764 by the renowned landscape architect Lancelot “Capability” Brown.

*BLENHEIM PALACE (3), T: (01993) 811-325, W: blenheimpalace.com. Open mid-February through Oct., daily 10:30-5:30; November through mid-December, Wed.-Sun. 10:30-5:30. Last admission at 4:45. £££. Park open all year, daily 9-5. Park only ££. Frequent events. Food service.

Blenheim Palace has been continuously occupied by the dukes of Marlborough since it was begun by Sir John Vanbrugh in the early 18th century as a gift from Queen Anne. Sir Winston Churchill, grandson of the seventh duke, was born here in 1874 and is buried nearby at Bladon Church. There is an exhibition of his personal belongings in the palace, which remains home to the present (11th) duke. To see its magnificent interior you can either take one of the frequent guided tours, lasting about an hour, or wander through on your own.

Be sure to explore at least part of the palace grounds after seeing the interior. The Butterfly House, where exotic tropical butterflies live in a virtually natural habitat, is another attraction included in the entrance fee. You can get to it by miniature railway or on foot. Close to this is the Marlborough Maze (4), the world's largest symbolic hedge maze.

A pleasant way to return to Woodstock is to follow the route on the map (photo, above). The Grand Bridge (5), an extravagant span over what was then only a creek, was part of Vanbrugh's original design. Most of it is now under water. The land just beyond it was the site of the old Woodstock Manor, for centuries a country residence for England's kings and queens.

Back in the village, stroll down Park Street and visit the small but interesting Oxfordshire Museum (6), which features displays of local life through the centuries along with temporary exhibitions. It is located in the historic Fletchers House, which also has a small Tourist Office and a coffee shop. T: (01993) 811-456, W: oxfordshire.gov.uk/the_oxfordshire_museum.

The town stocks (image, right), outside the museum, have holes for five legs. Was this a joke or did Woodstock have an unusual number of one-legged culprits? The Church (7) is often overlooked but is actually a fascinating study in changing styles, ranging from Norman to Perpendicular. Beyond this, the village offers several interesting shops and some very appealing pubs in which to relax.

Text and map copyright © 2009 by Earl Steinbicker.

 

RETURN to Daytrips Chapters Index.

RETURN to Current Main Page.

 

An UPDATED version of this trip is featured in my new Daytrips From London guidebook.

Rothenburg ob der Tauber, Germany

Continuing the series of free Daytrips sample chapters, here's one that no visitor to Germany should miss, taken directly from the 7th edition of my guidebook Daytrips Germany, and from the more compact Daytrips Bavaria:

Trip 13

*Rothenburg ob der Tauber

A Daytrip from Munich or Frankfurt

Rothenburg is almost too good to be true. This once-prosperous medieval town went to sleep after the Thirty Years War and didn't wake up until centuries later, when hordes of tourists began knocking at the gates. By that time its dreamy antiquity had become a gold mine, and its citizens happily vowed to keep the town just as it was in the Middle Ages.

There was a castle at this strategic and easily defended spot high above the Tauber valley a thousand years ago. This was extended in the 12th century and around it a town developed. As the population increased the original ramparts became too confining, so that new walls — which are still completely intact — had to be built beginning in the 13th century.

During the Reformation the town turned Protestant and as a result suffered terribly in the Thirty Years War of the 17th century. Stripped of its wealth and much too poor to afford new buildings, Rothenburg sank into obscurity. Its revival began with the late-19th-century Romantics, who had discovered in the midst of their rapidly industrializing nation a true miracle in the form of this long-forgotten and perfectly preserved medieval town.

The only problem with Rothenburg is that everyone knows about it. The mobs of tourists who come here in summer will thin out considerably once you get away from the town hall area, and you may even have some parts of town to yourself.

Rothenburg also makes an excellent daytrip from Frankfurt, or from smaller bases such as Würzburg, Nürnberg, or Heidelberg. The very best way to visit the town, however, is to make an overnight stop en route between Munich and Frankfurt, or vice versa.

GETTING THERE:

One well-known way to reach Rothenburg, aside from driving, is via the Romantic Road Bus, operated by the railroad between Munich, Würzburg, and Frankfurt. Railpass holders get a large discount on the fare. To use the bus you should first check the schedule and then make reservations by contacting Deutsche Touring, Am Römerhof 17, Frankfurt, T: (069) 790-30, W: touring.de. There are drawbacks, however. Unless you are staying overnight, it will not allow enough time to see Rothenburg. Contrary to popular belief, it is actually possible to get there by train from either Munich or Frankfurt, or more easily from Würzburg.

Trains from Munich require a very early start and changes at both Würzburg and Steinach. Be sure to check the schedules both ways very carefully. The ride takes over three hours each way. There are other possible routes; consult information at the Munich station.

Trains from Frankfurt also call for an early start. Changes must be made at both Würzburg and Steinach. With good connections, the total trip should take about 2½ hours.

By Car from Munich, take the A-8 Autobahn to the Augsburg-West exit, then the B-2 north to Donauwörth, and finally the “Romantic Road” (Romantische Strasse) via Nördlingen and Dinkelsbühl into Rothenburg, which is 208 km (130 miles) northwest of Munich. You must park outside the walls, where there are several lots.

By Car from Frankfurt, take the A-3 Autobahn to Würzburg, then head south on the A-7 to the Rothenburg exit, which is about 185 km (115 miles) southeast of Frankfurt. Again, park outside the walls.

PRACTICALITIES:

Rothenburg can be visited at any time, and is especially lovely in winter after a fresh snowfall. For your own sanity, avoid weekends and holidays during the summer. The local Tourist Information Office (Rothenburg Tourism Service), T: (09861) 404-800, W: rothenburg.de, is on the Marktplatz. Rothenburg has a population of about 12,000.

Travel to and from the parking lots, and around town, can be done by rickshaw. T: mobile (0177) 880-7122. €€ to €€€€.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

This popular tourist town abounds in quaint old restaurants. Among the best are:

Hotel Eisenhut (Herrngasse 3-5, just west of the Rathaus) Exquisite dining in a lovely hotel occupying four medieval houses, with a garden terrace overlooking the valley. T: (09861) 70-50. €€€

Romantik-Hotel Markusturm (Rödergasse 1, by the Markusturm) A romantic 13th-century inn noted for its game and fish dishes. Dinner only, reserve. T: (09861) 942-80. €€€

Ratsstube (Marktplatz 6) Regional specialties in a popular old tavern. T: (09861) 55-11. €€

Reichs-Küchenmeister (Kirchplatz 8, just east of St.-Jakobs Church) An old inn famed for its game and fish. T: (09867) 97-00. €€

Baumeisterhaus (Obere Schmiedgasse 3, just south of the Marktplatz) Local specialties in the courtyard or dining room of a 16th-century patrician house. T: (09861) 947-00. €€

 Klosterstüble (Heringsbronnengasse 5, near the Franciscan Church) A good value. T: (09861) 67-74. €€

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Click on map to enlarge.

Leave the train station (l) and follow the map to the Old Town, which begins at the Rödertor (2). This 17th-century bastion leads through the medieval walls and onto Rödergasse. Walk straight ahead past the Markusturm — a surviving part of the oldest ramparts — and into the very center of Rothenburg, the Marktplatz.

The imposing *Rathaus (Town Hall) (3) (photo, above) reflects the former wealth of this small town. It consists of two adjoining structures, one in the 16th-century Renaissance style facing the market place and the other a Gothic building completed in the 14th century, which opens onto Herrngasse. You may explore the interior by using the entrance on Marktplatz. The Imperial Hall is interesting, but the main attraction is to climb the 165-foot *tower for a fabulous view of medieval Rothenburg. This is reached by a difficult staircase that get progressively narrower. Be warned in advance that some minor acrobatics are required to get out on the platform. The tower is open daily from April-October, from 9:30-12:30 and 1-5; in Nov. and Jan. through March, weekends only 12-3; and in Dec. daily 12-3. €.

Beneath the Rathaus lie the Historical Vaults with their dark dungeons and an exhibition on the Thirty Years War. Open April-Oct., daily 9:30-5:50; Christmas Market daily 1-4. €.

On the north side of the Marktplatz is the 15th-century Ratstrinkstube, a former tavern for the city councilors. Above this there is a clock with mechanical figures, which act out the story of the Meistertrunk at 11 a.m., noon, and 1, 2, 3, 8, 9, and 10 p.m. daily. The legend dates from the Thirty Years War, when Protestant Rothenburg was captured by the Catholic General Tilly, who ordered widespread destruction and executions. Pleas for mercy fell on deaf ears until Tilly was offered a cup of the local wine. Impressed, he agreed to spare the town if one of the councilors could drink the entire 3¼-liter bumper in one mighty draught. An ex-mayor named Nusch performed the feat, then slept for three days and nights and lived on for another 37 years before dying at the age of 80. It's a nice story. The tourist office, by the way, is in the same building.

Stroll over to the St.-Jakob-Kirche (St. James' Church) (4), begun in the early 14th century and consecrated in the late 15th. Its Altar of the Twelve Apostles, at the east end, is beautifully carved and merits a careful examination, as do the stained-glass windows. The main attraction, however, is in the west gallery, up a flight of stairs. This is the *Altarpiece of the Holy Blood (photo, right), a major work by the renowned sculptor Tilman Riemenschneider, completed in 1504. Its depiction of the Last Supper is simply fantastic. Open April-Oct., daily 9-5:15; Nov. and Jan. through March, daily 10-noon and 2-4; and Dec. daily 10-5. €.

Now follow the map to the Klingentor (5), a 14th-century town gate attached to the very curiously fortified Church of St. Wolfgang. The latter dates from the late 15th century and has windows on the south side only. To the north it is a fortress, whose casemates and subterranean passages may be explored via an entrance near the High Altar. Open April-Sept., daily 10-1 and 2:30-5; Oct. Wed.-Mon., 2-4. €.

Continue along the walls to the Burg Tor (Castle Gate) (6), leading into a park built on the site of the original 10th-century castle. All that remains of its 12th-century successor is the Chapel of St. Blasius, now a war memorial. There is a marvelous view from the gardens, extending across the Tauber valley and encompassing the tiny and rather odd Toppler Castle, just below, and the medieval fortified Double Bridge to the left.

Leave the gardens and walk around to the Franciscan Church (7), the oldest in town, which dates from the 13th century. An unusual feature is the wooden screen separating the nave from the choir. It also contains some fine tombs. From here the elegant and wide Herrngasse, lined with stately homes of the gentry, leads back to the Town Hall.

Turn right on Obere Schmiedgasse, passing several beautiful patrician houses. The most notable of these is the Renaissance-style Baumeister House at number 3, with statues of the seven virtues and the seven deadly sins adorning its upper façade. In a few steps you will come to the:

*KRIMINALMUSEUM (Medieval Crime Museum) (8), T: (09861) 53-59, W: kriminalmuseum.rothenburg.de. Open April-Oct., daily 9:30-6; Nov. and Jan.-Feb., daily 2-4; Dec. and March daily 1-4. €.

Don’t miss seeing this large and fascinating display of medieval life and justice, featuring ingenious implements of torture, strange punishments, and horrendous executions. The collections occupy four floors of an ancient building and every item, from the gruesome to the humorous, is thoroughly explained in both German and English.

The most famous spot in Rothenburg is the *Plönlein (9) (photo, top of page), the subject of countless travel pictures. Formed by the intersection of two cobbled streets, each with a tower, and framed by half-timbered houses, this little square is almost unbearably picturesque. Continue straight ahead through Siebers Tower and turn left to the walls.

From here you can walk along the top of the Ramparts (photo, left), remarkably unchanged since the 14th century. At the Rödertor (2) it is possible to climb out into the tower for an even better view. Stay on the walls as far as the Galgentor (Gallows Gate) (10), then descend and follow the map past the 12th-century Weisser Turm (White Tower) (11), another part of the earliest town walls.

A series of narrow streets lead to the:

REICHSSTADTMUSEUM (Imperial City Museum) (12), T: (09861) 939-043, W: reichsstadtmuseum.rothenburg.de. Open April-Oct., daily 10-5; Nov.-March, daily 1-4. €.

Here, in a former Dominican convent, you’ll find the whole history of Rothenburg displayed in surviving artifacts — including the famous wine tankard used by the ex-mayor Nusch to perform his heroic feat.

Now walk over to the nearby Marktplatz, from which you can retrace your steps back to the train station.

ADDITIONAL  ATTRACTIONS:

German Christmas Museum (Deutsches Weihnachtsmuseum) – Explore the history of Christmas in a town that knows how to celebrate it. Antique ornaments, historic nutcrackers, Father Christmas figures and more take visitors back to olden times. Herrngasse 1. T: (09861) 409-365. Open daily 10-5:30, shorter hours off season, closed Good Friday. €.

Dolls and Toys Museum (Puppen und Spielzeugmuseum) — Antique dolls and toys, some dating from as far back as the 18th century, enchant the child in everyone. Hofbronnengasse 13. T: (09861) 73-30, W: spielzeugmuseum.rothenburg.de. Open March-Dec., daily 9:30-6; Jan.-Feb. daily 11-5. €.

Text and map copyright 2009 by Earl Steinbicker. Photos courtesy of Wikipedia.

 

RETURN to Current Main Page.

RETURN to Sample Daytrips Index.

 

Mariazell, Austria

Here's another sample chapter from my recent guidebook Daytrips Austria:

Trip 10

Mariazell

A Daytrip from Vienna or Graz

Austria's foremost place of pilgrimage, the home of its national shrine, is so beautifully situated that a daytrip there from either Vienna or Graz is worthwhile for the scenic splendor alone. As a bonus, you can visit a magnificent basilica of great religious and historical significance, ride to the top of a mountain for panoramic views, and take a short hike or steam-tram ride to a lovely lake. The town itself is a year-round resort, with many pleasant diversions.

Located in a snug valley between mountains in the northernmost reaches of Styria, Mariazell began its long history as a venerated site on December 21, 1157. According to tradition, that's when five monks set up a lonely priory in the forest, erecting a statue of the Virgin that was soon thought to be performing miracles. A pilgrimage church was built in 1200, and in 1377 the king of Hungary attributed his victory over the Turks to the Virgin of Mariazell, beginning a tide of pilgrimage that has not ceased to this day. For many centuries, it was this cult that enhanced the union of Austria with the Hapsburg dynasty. Today's visitors are drawn not only for devotional reasons, but also for the sheer natural pleasures this small resort offers. Railfans coming by train from Vienna will find this to be a particularly enticing trip.

GETTING THERE:

Trains from Vienna leave the Westbahnhof (West Station) frequently for the 45-minute ride to St. Pölten, where you change to the old narrow-gauge Mariazellerbahn, built in 1905 and still one of the most scenic mountain rail lines in Austria. Trains on this line depart several times in the morning and early afternoon, taking about 2½ hours to reach Mariazell. Return service operates until late afternoon. Check schedules in advance as there may be changes. W: Oebb.at and W: mariazellerbahn.at. Trains from Vienna's Westbahnhof may be moved to the new Hauptbahnhof in 2011 or so.

Trains from Graz leave fairly often for Bruck an der Mur, where you change to a bus for Mariazell, a two-hour ride.

By Car from Vienna, leave on the A-1 Autobahn and head west to the St. Pölten Sud exit, then take the B-20 south into the mountains. Mariazell is 138 km (86 miles) southwest of Vienna.

By Car from Graz, take the A-9 Autobahn north, then the S-35 to Kapfenberg, followed by the B-20 north, a total distance of about 150 km (94 miles).

PRACTICALITIES:

Mariazell flourishes all year round, although a few minor sights are closed in winter. The historic steam tram operates on weekends and holidays, from July through September. The local Tourist Office, T: (03882) 2366, W: mariazell.at, is at Hauptplatz 13, to the left of the basilica. Mariazell is in the Land of Steiermark and has a population of about 2,000.

This trip could be combined in the same day with the one to St. Pölten (page 62).

FOOD AND DRINK:    

Some especially good choices in Mariazell are:

Jägerwirt (Hauptplatz 2, directly across from the basilica) Traditional Austrian fare with an old-fashioned country atmosphere. T: (03882) 23-62. €€

Café Goldener Löwe (Hauptplatz 1a, across from the basilica) Austrian and Italian dishes, indoors or out. Check out the upstairs men’s room. X: Mon. T: (03882) 2444. € and €€

Edelweisshütte (Atop the Bürgeralpe, a short walk from the upper cable-car station past the observation tower) A rustic Alpine retreat with indoor and outdoor tables. T: (03882) 42-55. €

Brauhaus Mariazell (Wiener Strasse 5, just north of the Hauptplatz) Home-brewed beer and local dishes. X: Tues. T: (03882) 4255. €

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

For those coming by train from Vienna, the Mariazell Train Station (1) is a pleasant 15-minute walk along a path marked Bahnhofpromenade into the town proper. Follow Ludwig-Leber Strasse past the parking lot and bus station (for those arriving by bus or car), turning left on Grazer Strasse to the Hauptplatz, or main square. Rising in front of you is the great:

*BASILICA (2), T: (03882) 25-950, W: basilika-mariazell.at. Church open daily 6 a.m.-8 p.m. Free. Treasury open May to late Oct., Tues.-Sat. 10-3, Sun. 11-4. €.

Mariazell’s great basilica grew out of a pilgrimage church of 1200. The present structure dates from the 14th century, but was greatly enlarged and altered during the late 17th century. Its appearance may seem rather strange, what with two squat, bulbous Baroque towers flanking the original Gothic spire and porch. Inside, however, it is a triumph of the Baroque style, resplendent in its elaborate plasterwork and paintings. The main focus of pilgrimage, the *Gnadenkapelle or Chapel of Miracles, is in the center of the nave. A silver baldachin designed in 1727 by J.E. Fischer von Erlach the Younger shelters the original 12th-century statue of the Virgin of Mariazell, or Magna Mater Austriae, the Austrian national shrine. The silver grille around it was donated in 1756 by Empress Maria Theresa.

Beyond this is the High Altar of 1704, a famous creation by Austria's master of the Baroque, J.B. Fischer von Erlach the Elder. The Treasury (Schatzkammer), up a few steps, has a wonderful collection of votive offerings dating from medieval times to the present, along with valuable items of ecclesiastical art.

A path leads uphill from the rear of the church to the Kalvarienberg (Mount Calvary) (3), passing Stations of the Cross and a display of mechanical nativity figurines.

Return to the Hauptplatz and follow Wiener Strasse for two blocks to the lower station of the Bürgeralpebahn Cable Car (4), which quickly lifts you up to the 4,150-foot-high *Bürgeralpe Plateau (5) for a bird's-eye view of the surrounding mountains and lakes. A sham-medieval observation tower, just up the path, allows you to climb above the tree line for an even better look. Several invigorating forest strolls following marked trails can be taken from here. In winter this becomes a popular ski area, especially favored by family groups. Cable car round-trip €€.

Back in town, continue down Wiener Strasse to the Heimatmuseum (Museum of Local History) (6), featuring rustic room settings and folk arts from times gone by. Tours: May-June, Wed. at 2:30, Fri. at 10; July-Sept., Mon., Tues, Thurs., Sat. at 10, Wed. at 2:30, Sun. at 10:30. €€.

The route on the map returns you to the train station in about 10 minutes. From there, you might want to make a side trip of about two miles to the Erlaufsee (7), a lovely lake surrounded by impressive mountains. While this makes an excellent walk, if you happen to come on a weekend or holiday from July through September you could ride there on the delightful *Museumstramweg instead. Running with open cars from the train station to the lake, this claims to be the world's oldest remaining steam tram and, along with the train ride from St. Pö1ten provides a memorable experience. W: erlebnisbahn.at. There is also bus service to the lake. Ask at the tourist office for current schedules for both.

Text and map copyright © 2008 by Earl Steinbicker

 RETURN to Sample Daytrips Chapters Index.

RETURN to Railfan Index.

 

The Avedon Years, Part XLV

 

In Cold Blood

 

A recent viewing of the 2005 movie “Capote” brought back memories of an odd chapter in Dick Avedon’s career. It was in April 1960 that Dick traveled alone to Garden City, Kansas, for a meeting with author Truman Capote (1924-1984), who was there researching material for a fact-based novel about one of the most savage multiple murders in American history. The final result, published in serial form in The New Yorker magazine in September 1965 and as a book in January 1966, was entitled In Cold Blood. 

 

Dick’s connection with Truman Capote went back to their early 1959 collaboration on Observations, a handsome book of photography and prose. I was away in the Army at that time, but upon returning to civilian life at the end of the year was given an autographed copy by Dick as we discussed the possibility of my working for him once again, which I did.

 

Avedon’s role in this strange 1960 undertaking, a self-imposed assignment, was to do portraits of everyone involved, from the police to the murderers themselves, and to capture the atmosphere of the crime scene. This he did without assistance using just his Rolleiflex TLR and 35mm Pentax cameras. The image to the right is Avedon's portrait of one of the murderers, Richard Hickock, taken in the Kansas jail on April 15, 1960. 

How would these strange New Yorkers be received in small town Kansas? Well, Capote was there some four months earlier with fellow writer Harper Lee so the locals were already used to his eccentricities and had come to accept him. Avedon by contrast was so “normal” that he could almost have passed off as a Kansan himself.

Upon Dick's return to New York I developed the film and made prints from the negatives. Those images of the two murderers have haunted me ever since. The story goes like this: Two drifters meet in jail and are soon released on probation; they plan to rob an isolated Kansas farmhouse of a rumored fortune in cash, liquidating the entire family to make sure there are no witnesses. The brutal slaughter of the Clutter family was carried out on November 15, 1959. Ironically, there was little money, and the murderers left almost empty handed. In January of 1960 they were apprehended in Las Vegas and brought back to Kansas for trial.

Capote’s interest begins after reading a small article about the crime in the back pages of the New York Times in November 1959. At first he planned only a short story but after getting to know the jailed murderers decides on a full major work. An agreement with his publisher is reached by April 1960, when he asks his friend Avedon to meet him in Kansas to make a photographic record of the events. 

Dick’s involvement only lasted a few days, but Truman lingered on in hopes of getting critical anecdotal information from the accused for his book. The trial was soon held, resulting in a guilty verdict and a sentence of death by hanging. Capote, by now strangely attracted to one of the murderers, Perry Smith (police mug shot, right), funds their appeals — a process that drags on for five years. Finally, all appeals exhausted, on April 14, 1965 both are hanged, with Capote as an official witness at the gallows.

At last, Capote could finish his book.

Quickly completed, the book gave birth to a new style of literature in which the lines between fact and fabrication are blurred. In Cold Blood is neither reportage nor fiction, but a hybrid in which truth is embellished for dramatic effect.

During the interim Capote, who had little or no knowledge of photography, purchased a Rolleiflex camera identical to the ones Dick used and asked him to teach him to use it. This task was given to me, and I spent a few sessions instructing the author.

By September of 1965 the book had been edited and typeset. Capote dropped off the complete set of galley proofs at Avedon’s studio and left them there overnight. Fascinated, I stayed nearly all night reading the text.

In Cold Blood was serialized in The New Yorker magazine beginning on September 25th, printed as a book later that year, and released in early January 1966. It soon became a best seller and has gone through numerous editions ever since. On January 7, 1966, LIFE magazine published a major article entitled “Horror Spawns a Masterpiece,” illustrated with Avedon’s photos from that trip to Kansas in April 1960. Some of these same photos later appeared in various museum exhibitions, and in Avedon’s 1994 book Evidence.

The movie version of In Cold Blood opened in 1967 to critical acclaim, but it could not halt Capote’s downward spiral into drug addiction and alcoholism brought on primarily by the emotional stresses of the whole affair. He died in 1984.

In  2003 Avedon helped coach actor Philip Seymour Hoffman in his portrayal of Truman Capote in the movie Capote, mostly in getting the gestures and voice right. Unfortunately, Dick never saw that film as he died in 2004, months before it was completed.

In this film the brief role of Dick Avedon (screen shot, above) was marred by a serious error involving the camera Dick supposedly used, a Hasselblad (screen shot, right). Dick never used a Hasselblad until much later in his career. His portraits of the murderers and others involved were all taken with a Rolleiflex 2.8E. Also, the Hasselblad in the film lacks a sunshade, a big no-no, and it was a model not even available at that time. His method of softly manipulating the subjects does seem genuine, however. 

The following year, 2006, Infamous, another film on the same subject as Capote and covering pretty much the same story, was released. Infamous is somewhat more violent and more explicit in the sexual attraction Truman Capote felt for the condemned murderer Perry. Although the 2006 film does not even mention Avedon, it does have actors playing the roles of some of Dick’s closest friends.

Text copyright © 2009 by Earl Steinbicker.

  

RETURN to Avedon Years Index.

RETURN to Current Main Page.

 

NEW:

Photography's Golden Age ended long ago but remains very much alive in my memory. From 1952 through 1965 I was an assistant to Avedon during his most creative period. Do I ever have the stories to tell! Now, near the end of 2015, is the time to reveal all, while I'm still alive and kicking. Tales of personalities, motivations, intrigues, and even the fine details of how it was done.

What I need to make this project a reality is a co-conspirator to aid in getting the whole, true, uncensored story published -- either as a book, an e-book, or even a documentary.

Anyone interested? Leave a comment below and I'll get back to you.

Dover, England

NEW FOR 2011: Daytrips From London. Here's a sample entry:

 

Trip 14

Dover

For over two thousand years the fabled White Cliffs of Dover have marked the gateway to England. Iron Age man settled these shores, and so did the Romans, who built their port of Dubris here in AD 43. Strategically, Dover is of paramount importance to Britain, being the closest point to the Continent and only 22 miles from France. A great fortress inevitably rose on this site, defending the island nation right down to modern times. Today, the massive 12th-century castle is a major tourist attraction that’s well worth the daytrip itself, while the harbor it overlooks is the busiest passenger port in England.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains to Dover's Priory Station operated by Southeastern leave at least hourly from Victoria station in London, with a journey time of nearly two hours. Be sure to board the correct car as some trains split en route. There is also slower service from London's Charing Cross station, requiring a change enroute. Return service operates until mid-evening.

By Car, Dover is 74 miles (118 km) southeast of London by way of either the A2 and M2 highways, or the A20 and M20 highways.

PRACTICALITIES:

Good weather is essential for this largely outdoor trip, especially for the maritime views for which you might want to bring along binoculars. The Castle is open every day except on Tuesdays and Wednesdays from November through January, and on Christmas Day, Boxing Day, and New Year's, but the Roman Painted House is closed in winter and on Mondays.

The local Tourist Information Centre, T: (01304) 205-108, W: whitecliffscountry.org.uk, is in the Old Town Gaol on Biggin Street, in the town center. Dover is in the county of Kent, and has a population of about 34,000.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

     Cullins Yard (11 Cambridge Rd., by the harbor, between Marine Parade and the Prince of Wales Pier) Mostly seafood, with a wide beer selection and a boat-shaped bar. T: (01304) 211-666, W: cullinsyard.com. ££

    Dino's Italian Restaurant (58 Castle St., near the Market Square) Good Italian cooking at modest prices. T: (01304) 294-678, W: dinosrestaurant.co.uk. X: Mon. ££

    La Salle Verte (14/15 Cannon St., near the Dover Museum) Light meals, sandwiches and snacks, served woth organic coffee or tea. T: (01304) 201-547, W: lasalleverte.co.uk. £

    Inexpensive cafeteria meals are available at the castle.

    

 SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

From Priory Station (1) you can either take a bus direct to the castle or follow the map into town. Here, at the Bus Station (2), you can get a ride up to the castle, perched dramatically atop a nearby hill. It is also possible to get there by taxi or car, or even on foot if you don't mind the stiff climb.

 

*DOVER CASTLE (3-4), T: (01304) 201-628, W: English-heritage.org.uk. Open Apr.-July, daily 10-6; Aug., daily 9:30-6; Sept., daily 10-6; Oct., daily 10-5; Nov.-Jan, Thurs.-Mon. 10-4; Feb.-March, daily 10-5. Last admission one hour before closing. Closed Dec. 24-26 and New Year’s Day. £££. Snack bar. Gift shop.

Dover Castle is by far the finest and most fascinating military structure in England. While essentially of Norman construction, parts of it date from Saxon and even Roman times. Brutally strong, its 20-foot-thick walls have withstood sieges during its entire history. Begin your visit with the mighty Keep (3), surrounded by a defensive curtain wall. Built in 1180 by Henry II to replace earlier structures, the keep has been continually modified down through the centuries. You can easily spend hours exploring the many rooms and passageways, and examining the exhibitions displayed there — including re-creations of the Siege of 1216 and preparations for the arrival of Henry VIII and the Tudor Court. Be sure to get up to the roof, from which there is a fabulous *view extending all the way to France in clear weather. A visit to the Underground Works beneath the castle is well worth the effort, although it involves some steep climbs. The entry to this tunnel system is just outside the keep, and an audio guided tour is available.

The existence of a maze of secret tunnels used in World War II was declassified in 1986, and parts of the subterranean labyrinth later opened to visitors. Known as the *Secret Wartime Tunnels, the complex is shown on tours that include control rooms, a hospital, and an opening in the side of the White Cliffs from which Winston Churchill watched the Battle of Britain — made all the more realistic with sounds, smells, and audiovisuals.

More of the castle's past can be seen by strolling over to the Pharos (4) (photo, right), a Roman lighthouse erected in the 2nd century AD to guide the Imperial Navy into port. This is the tallest surviving Roman structure in Britain. Directly adjacent to it stands the Saxon Church of St. Mary de Castro, which was heavily restored during the 19th century. Although its exact age is unknown, parts of it may date from as far back as the 7th century. From here you might want to amble around the outer ramparts before leaving the precincts. Don't miss Queen Elizabeth's Pocket Pistol, a 24-foot-long cannon presented to Henry VIII.

Return to the town by bus or, since it is downhill, on foot.  Just follow the path opposite the bus stop, which leads through Victoria Park. Laureston Place and Castle Hill Road will bring you to Castle Street, at the end of which is the Market Square, built over the site of the ancient Roman harbor. From there take King and Bench streets to Marine Parade.

There are splendid views of the harbor from Marine Parade (5), but for an even better look you should walk out on the Prince of Wales Pier (6), which offers wonderful panoramas of the famous White Cliffs. From here you can watch the comings and goings of the speedy SeaCats and leisurely ferries. No quick trip through the Channel Tunnel will ever match the experience of a genuine sea voyage to the Continent.

Return to Market Square and the:

DOVER MUSEUM & BRONZE AGE BOAT GALLERY (7), T: (01304) 201-066, W: dovermuseum.co.uk. Open Mon.-Sat., 10-5:30; also Sun. from April through Aug., noon-5. Closed Dec. 25-26 and Jan. £.

Dover’s Roman history is explored in an archaeological gallery on the ground floor, which also includes finds from an Anglo-Saxon cemetery. Upstairs, there are special exhibitions and artifacts of local history from 1066 to the present day. The center of attraction, though, is the world’s oldest seagoing boat, built some 3,550 years ago and discovered in a Dover dig in 1992. Along with this is a re-created full-scale Bronze Age home, many treasures from that time, and interactive computers that allow you to build your own boat and see if it survives a Channel crossing.

Nearby, on New Street, is the Roman Painted House (8). Britain's answer to Pompeii, this excavated 2nd-century town house has lovely painted walls and an intact underfloor heating system. T: (01304) 203-279. Open April-Sept. Tues.-Sat. 10-5, also on Sun. from April-Aug., noon-5; and on Bank Holiday Mon. in July-Aug. £.

Now follow Cannon Street and Biggin Street to the Tourist Office (9) in the Old Town Gaol by the historic Town Hall. St. Edmund's Chapel (10) on Priory Road is on the way back to the train station. Dating from the 13th century, it ceased religious services in 1544 and was later used as a forge. In 1968 the tiny wayside chapel was re-consecrated and is thought to be the smallest in England in regular use.

Text, B&W photos, and map copyright © 2003 by Earl Steinbicker, updated to 2009.

Color photo by Remi Jouan, used under GNU Free Documentation License.

RETURN to Sample Daytrip Chapters Index.

RETURN to Castles Index.

RETURN to Current Main Page.

 

Why Amazon?

I have come to prefer shopping for many items, especially books, CDs and DVDs, online rather than in stores. For me, the service from Amazon.com has been particularly good over the past several years for several reasons:

 

• Customer reviews really help in selecting products, and can usually be relied on if there are, say, five or more. I always check the lowest ratings (1 or 2 stars) first to see what might be wrong with the item, followed by the higher (3, 4, or 5 stars) ones.  
• Products are described in minute detail. 
• A full range of similar or competitive products is usually shown. 
• Links are provided to independent vendors in their Advantage program who may, or may not, offer lower prices or used merchandise. These are rated as to reliability, determined by customer feedback.
• Suggestions are made for related items. 
• There is no pressure to buy. 
• Delivery is often free if the total order is for $25 or more. 
• Depending on your location, they often do not collect sales taxes.

On several occasions I have gone to Amazon intent on purchasing a particular item, but changed my mind after reading the reviews. I then selected a similar product that was more satisfactory. This helpful guidance is one of the reasons I love Amazon. The other is price — not always the very cheapest, but usually quite reasonable.

 

SO, just what Little Adventure am I up to now in 2013? Why, just the most challenging one of them all! CLICK HERE TO FIND OUT.

 

RETURN to WebTech and Blogs Index.

RETURN to Current Main Page.

If you have not already experienced shopping at Amazon, you can see what it's like by clicking on the ITEM'S NAME in the box below, NOT on the Buy button. Doing this will get you full information. I have chosen one of my own books as an example because its Amazon listing is very informative. FULL DISCLOSURE: Clicking on any Amazon links on this blog and then purchasing anything at all before leaving the site puts a few pennies in my pocket, which helps defray the cost of maintaining this blog. Thank you.

 

 

Last Year at Marienbad Redux

People either hate or love this hypnotic 1961 movie — there is no middle ground. It has long been regarded by some as the highest of high art, by others as the most pretentious p.o.s. ever made. Until now, there was little possibility of checking it out for yourself as it was only available on a badly-made VHS tape or the even worse DVD derived from that tape. BUT NOW (summer 2009) the good folks at Criterion have fully restored it on a stunning two-disc set with beautiful, haunting images composed with rich, silky blacks and luminous whites. Fans of black-and-white photography will thrill to the tonalities here, even if the plot escapes them. Reminiscent of 1930's fashion photography (think Chanel), it features exquisite lighting and careful compositions. All of the dialog is in French with English subtitles, and the original name of the film is L' Année dernière à Marienbad.

The story, such as it is, depends completely on the viewer's imagination and participation as a co-author. You only get out of it what you put in. If, like me, you are content with absorbing waves of gorgeous images enhanced by an appropriate musical score, you won't need a plot. Otherwise, it might go something like this: Character X, a handsome male member of Europe's idle rich, meets Character A, a stunning young lady at an unnamed aristocratic spa rich in baroque décor (photo, above). He tries to convince her that they met before, possibly last year, at another spa, perhaps Marienbad (now Mariánské Lázne), and they possibly had an affair. Enter Character M, who might be A's husband, or lover, or not. An allegorical game, at which M could lose but never does, may or may not play a pivotal role.

Past and present, memory and reality, fact and fiction are juxtaposed without transition or explanation. So, it's up to the viewer to make some sense out of it, or just lay back and let the haunting images wash all over you.   

I saw this film at a small art house in Greenwich Village on, I believe, West 8th Street between Fifth and Sixth avenues, in 1961 or possibly '62. Soon after that I purchased a book (photo, left) of the text for the film for the princely sum of $1.95. Although quite battered, I still treasure it.

Finding myself in Munich a few years later, I visited Schloss Nymphenburg, where much of the 1960 filming was done, especially the famous scene in the gardens (photo, below) in which the trees, statues, and other fixtures cast no shadows while the people cast long ones. How this was done is quite simple; it was shot at high noon and the actor's shadows were painted on the walkways. Obviously, the actors could not move, and the scene is quite short. At the time I was playing with a new toy, a Fuji Single 8 movie camera loaded with grainy black-and-white film, attempting to capture some of the old magic.

The new (2009) Criterion set contains a second disc featuring recent interviews with director Alain Resnais and others, a half-hour "making of" documentary, a critical analysis, and two short earlier films by the same director.

 RETURN to Current Main Page.