Life's Little Adventures

Warwick, England

 Here's a sample chapter from my new 2011 Daytrips from London guidebook, available now.

Trip 29

Warwick

A Daytrip from London

Many visitors go to see the magnificent castle at Warwick but completely overlook the town itself. That's a pity, because this is surely one of the least spoiled places in England. Small and compact, it has a wonderful blend of Tudor and Georgian architecture, a splendid church, marvelous gardens, and several fine museums.

Warwick grew up around its castle, whose origins date back to a fortification built here in 914 by Ethelfleda, daughter of Alfred the Great, to protect her kingdom of Mercia. Nothing of this remains, but there are still traces of the motte built by William the Conqueror in 1068. The castle you see today is largely of 14th-century construction with great modifications made down through the years to convert the interior into a luxurious home. Sold to Madame Tussaud's in 1978, it is now a showcase combining medieval elements with those of a more recent stately home, and outfitted with the inevitable wax figures.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains depart London's Marylebone Station on Chiltern Railways frequently for Warwick Town Station (not Warwick Parkway Station), a trip of about 90 minutes. Good return service operates until mid-evening, after that it is infrequent and slow. Service is reduced on Sundays and holidays.

By Car, Warwick is 96 miles northwest of London via the M40 to Junction 15, then the A429.

PRACTICALITIES:

The castle is open every day except Christmas Day, but some of the other sights are closed on Sundays or Mondays. The local Tourist Information Centre, T: (01926) 492-212, W: visitwarwick.co.uk, is in the Court House on Jury Street. Markets are held on Saturdays, and a farmers’ market on the 3rd Friday of each month. Warwick is the county town of Warwickshire, and has a population of about 22,000.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

    Some choice places for lunch are:

     Rose and Crown (30 Market Place). An upmarket dining pub with superb modern cuisine, voted one of the best pubs in England. T: (01926) 411-117, W: roseandcrownwarwick.co.uk. Open daily from 8 a.m. on. £, ££, and £££

    Tudor House Inn (92 West St., beyond Lord Leycester Hospital) Traditional, simple English dishes in a 15th-century inn. T: (01926) 495-447, W: thetudorhousewarwick.co.uk. ££

    Piccolinos (31 Smith St., west of St. John's House) Italian, specializing in chicken and fish dishes for over two decades. T: (01926) 491-020, W: ilpiccolinos.co.uk. £ and ££

    Catalan (6 Jury St.) Mediterranean cuisine, especially noted for tapas. T: (01926) 498-930, W: cafecatalan.com. X: Sun. £ and ££

    Tilted Wig (11 Market Place, near the County Museum) A popular pub with a variety of English, International, and vegetarian dishes. T: (01926) 411-534, W: the tiltedwig.co.uk. £ and ££

    There are also two eateries and a snack bar at the castle. Picnicking is permitted on the grounds.

 
Click on map to enlarge 

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leave the train station (1) and follow the map to:

 *WARWICK CASTLE (2), T: (01926) 406-600, W: warwick-castle.co.uk. Open daily except Christmas Day, 10-6, closing at 5 from Oct.-March. Last admission is half an hour before closing. Admission not including dungeon: Adults £17.95, seniors £11.95, children £10. Advance online purchases save 20%. With dungeon £25.45, £19.45, £17.50 respectively. Special events. Gift shop. Restaurants. Café. Picnic area.

Warwick Castle as painted by Canaletto in 1752 

Considered by many to be the finest medieval castle in England, it will easily take two or three hours to explore. Everything is well marked and explained. The main attractions include the Barbican and Gatehouse, a 14th-century complex featuring an exhibition on the life of Richard III; the Armoury with its superb collection of weapons; and the Dungeon and Torture Chamber, which has fascinating (if grisly) displays of medieval torture instruments. Beyond this, Guy's Tower may be climbed and the ramparts walked.The Ghost Tower is allegedly haunted by a 17th-century apparition. A major attraction — “Kingmaker — A Preparation for Battle” — brings to life the sights and sounds of 1471 as the Earl of Warwick readies his army for combat. More Victorian in character, the *State Apartments make a gorgeous show of baronial splendor. Next to them is the Royal Weekend, a re-creation of a turn-of-the-century house party enlivened with wax figures of famous nobility.

Beyond the castle are lovely gardens created by “Capability” Brown in the 18th century. Peacocks roam about the trees, some of which were planted by such luminaries as Queen Victoria and Prince Albert. Cross the bridge over the River Avon to an island (3) that has wonderful views of the south face. Also facing the river is the Mill & Engine House. This medieval watermill was converted to generate electricity for the castle as early as 1894 – quite an innovation at the time, and one that is thoroughly explained to visitors.

The Conservatory (4) is a fantasy recalling the spirit of Georgian times.

Leave the Castle and return to Castle Hill. A short walk down Mill Street takes you to the lovely Mill Gardens (5), a treat for gardeners everywhere. T:(01926) 492-877. Open daily Apr.-Oct., 9-6. £1.50.

Now follow the map to Oken's House at the bottom of Mill Lane, an Elizabethan dwelling that survived the devastating fire of 1694. It now houses an utterly delightful tea room, the perfect spot for a break. W: thomasokentearooms.com. 

Continue up Castle Street and make a left on High Street to the Lord Leycester Hospital (6), (photo on right), a group of picturesque 14th-century almshouses that have been used since the 16th century as a retirement home for old soldiers. One of these gentlemen will be happy to show you around, and then you can visit the restored 16th-century Master’s Garden. T: (01926) 491-422, W: lordleycester.com. 

Walk down Brook Street to the Warwickshire Museum (7) in the Market Place. Displays here cover archaeology, natural history, and local bygones in addition to changing exhibitions. T: (01926) 412-500. Open Tues.-Sat. 10-5; and also Sun. from Apr.-Sept., 11:30-5. Free.

St. Mary's Church (8), nearby, has parts dating from the 12th century, although it was largely rebuilt after the 1694 fire. Its 15th-century *Beauchamp Chapel is incomparable, and its tower can be climbed for a nice view of Warwickshire. T: (01926) 403-940, W: stmaryswarwick.org.uk. Open daily 10-6, closing at 4 in winter. Free. Tower open daily in summer, weather permitting, nominal charge.

Jury Street leads past the East Gate, a relic of the old town wall, and as Smith Street to St. John's House (9). This beautiful 17th-century mansion is now a museum featuring period reconstructions of a parlor, a kitchen, and a Victorian classroom, along with costumes and musical instruments. There is a regimental military exhibition on the floor above. T: (01926) 412-132. Open Tues.-Sat. and Bank Holiday Mon., 10-5; and also on Sun. from Apr.-Sept., 2:30-5. Free. 

A short walk in the garden completes your tour before returning to the nearby train station.

Text and map copyright © 2010 by Earl Steinbicker

 

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Guildford, England

These pages are taken from my newest guidebook, Daytrips From London, which outlines 47 one-day adventures by rail or car in Southern England — each complete with a walking tour map.

Trip 14

Guildford

Dating back at least a thousand years, Guildford is an unusually attractive old town with a rich architectural heritage. The Saxons named it Gyldeford — the ford of the golden flowers — after its strategic position on the River Wey. A Norman castle was built here, which remained a favorite royal residence for centuries. During medieval times Guildford became the county town of Surrey, a status it still holds. Throughout the Middle Ages the peaceful and prosperous town boasted a thriving woolen industry that died out in the 17th century, only to be replaced by another source of wealth, the shipping of goods by barge along its newly navigable river.

Guildford today is a remarkable blend of past and present. While it has done a good job of preserving the old, it also has some first-rate modern structures. The town is particularly rich in parks, gardens, and open spaces.

GETTING  THERE:

   Trains to Guildford leave London's Waterloo Station at least every half-hour, with a journey time of well under an hour. Return service operates until late evening.

    By Car, Guildford is 33 miles southwest of London via the A3 road.

PRACTICALITIES:

    Guildford may be visited at any time, but note that the museums are closed on Sundays, and the castle is closed from October through March. The local Tourist Information Centre, T: (01483) 444-333, W: Guildford.gov.uk, is at 14 Tunsgate, between the castle and the Guildhall. Guildford is the county seat of Surrey, and has a population of about 66,000.

FOOD  AND DRINK:

    Some of the better restaurants and pubs are:

    Café de Paris (35 Castle St., near the castle) Exceptional French cuisine in a combined bistro and restaurant. T: (01483) 534-896. X: Sun. £££

    The Gate (3 Milkhouse Gate, a block south of Guildford House) Contemporary Mediterranean cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere. T: (01483) 576-300. X: Sun. ££ and £££

    Rumwong (16 London Rd., 2 blocks northeast of the Royal Grammar School) The tasty cuisine of Thailand in a colorful restaurant. T: (01483) 536-092. ££ and £££

    The Weyside (Millbrook, near the boathouse) A riverside pub with garden seating and homemade pub food. T: (01483) 568-024. £ and ££

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

    Leaving the train station(1), follow Park Street and Millmead to the River Wey, which was converted into a navigable waterway as early as 1653. Through a series of canals and locks it is joined with the Thames to the north, and a one time was open all the way to the south coast. Now owned by the National Trust, the Wey Navigation is very popular with pleasure boaters, who have replaced the commercial barges of old.

    Cross the footbridge to Millmead Lock. From here you can stroll along the water past the Guildford Boathouse (2), which offers river cruises, boat rentals, and a cruising restaurant.  To reach it, use the footbridge and return via Millbrook. Cruises Easter through Oct., narrow boats all year. Daily, 9-5. Evening cruises to 10. Rates vary from ££ to ££££ for adults, less for children, depending on length of cruise and food service. Row boat rentals.T: (01483) 504-494, W:guildfordboats.co.uk.

    The Yvonne Arnaud Theatre(3), delightfully located by Millmead Lock, is a modern circular structure that often previews productions before they open in London's West End. Its restaurant and café overlook the river. T:(01483) 440-000, W: Yvonne-arnaud.co.uk. Just beyond is the town mill, built over a millrace and now used as a scenery workshop for the theater.

   Cross Millbrook and follow Mill Lane to St. Mary's Church (4), the oldest building in Guildford. Its Saxon tower dates from about 1050, with the rest being completed by the 13th century.

  Continuing along Quarry Street, take a look down Rosemary Alley, a steep medieval path to the river. Just beyond it is the Guildford Museum (5), which has exhibits of local archaeology and history as well as items connected with Lewis Carroll, author of Alice in Wonderland, who spent a great deal of his time in Guildford.T:(01483) 444-750, W: guildford.gov.uk. Open Mon.-Sat. 11-5. Free.

    Pass through the adjacent Castle Arch, dating from 1265. To the right, on Castle Hill, is a private house called The Chestnuts that was leased by Lewis Carroll as a home for his six spinster sisters. This is where he died in 1898.

      A path leads up to the Castle Keep (6). Built in 1170 on an earlier mound, it's all that remains of the great Norman castle that was once a favorite royal residence until it fell into neglect in the 15th century. Later used as a jail, the keep offers a marvelous view from the top. T:(01483) 444-718, W: guildford.gov.uk. Open April-Sept., daily 10-5, Oct. & March, Sat.-Sun. 11-4. Closed Jan.-Feb. and Nov.-Dec. Adults £2.60, seniors and children £1.30. Grounds open all year, free.

    Leave the grounds and follow the map to Milk House Gate, a quaint narrow passageway just before the multi-story parking facility. This leads to High Street, across which to the left is the Guildhall (7) with its protruding clock, easily the most photographed sight in Guildford. Its dramatic façade was erected in 1683, but the main structure is Elizabethan. Ask about the free guided tours on Tuesday and Thursday at 2 and 3.T: (01483) 444-750.

      Head up High Street to the Guildford House (8) at number 155. Used for art exhibitions, it was built in 1660 and is noted for its beautifully molded plaster ceilings and carved wooden staircases. T: (01483) 444-740, W: guildfordhouse.co.uk. Open Tues.-Sat. 10-4:45. Café. Shop.

    Just beyond stands Abbot's Hospital (9), or Hospital of the Blessed Trinity, an old almshouse with an interesting history. It was founded in 1619 by George Abbot, a poor local boy who was given a free education by the town. He rose to become the Archbishop of Canterbury and repaid the people of Guildford by building this home for their elderly poor, which is still used for that purpose. A guided tour of its splendid interior is available at stated times or by appointment. T:(01483) 455-591, W: abbotshospital.org.

    The Royal Grammar School(10) is a little farther up High Street. Its modern buildings are on the left side, but those on the right date from 1586. Enter the old courtyard and look around. Visitors are occasionally admitted to the library, which contains priceless old chained books.

    Return down High Street, passing Holy Trinity Churchon the left. This Classical building was erected in 1763 on the site of the medieval church that collapsed in 1740. It was used as a cathedral from 1927 to 1961. Another classical structure, the Tunsgate Arch, directly opposite the Guildhall, fronted the former Corn Exchange when it was built in 1818. A road now passes beneath it.

    Turn right on Angel Gate, a narrow lane by the side of the ancient Angel Inn. This leads to North Street, scene of a colorful farmers' market held on Fridays and Saturdays. Make a left and return by Swan Lane to High Street, which you follow to the river.

    Cross that and return to the train station (1).

NEARBY ATTRACTIONS:

DAPDUNE WHARF (11), Wharf Road, off Woodbridge Rd (A322), about a mile north of Guildford. T:(01483) 561-389, W: nationaltrust.org.uk. Open mid-March through Oct.; Mon., Thurs., Fri., Sat., Sun. 11-5. River trips 11-4, weather permitting. Site admission: Adults £3.80, children £2. Boat trips: Adults £3.50, children £2. Tea room, picnic facilities. Ask at the tourist office or phone ahead for current information regarding public transportation to the site.

     Operated by the National Trust, Dapdune Wharf is a part of the River Wey & Godalming Navigations, which first opened in 1653 and reached Godalming by 1764. From then until its closure to commercial traffic in 1964 it was used to transport heavy goods to London via the River Thames. Today it is a perfectly preserved recreational asset offering boat rides along with a restored stable, smithy, and barge-building shed where visitors can climb aboard the barge Reliance. Interactive displays aid in discovering the history of Surrey’s secret waterway.

 

GUILDFORD CATHEDRAL(12), Stag Hill, reached via Guildford Park Road and Richmount, about one mile from the station. T: (01483) 565-287, W:guildford-cathedral.org.Open daily 8:30-5:30. Donations accepted. Refectory Restaurant offers quality meals.

    The first Anglican cathedral to be built on a new site in the south of England since the Reformation, it was begun in 1936 and consecrated in 1961. Although in line with the great English cathedrals, it is definitely a work on the 20th century, relying on proportion, mass, volume and line rather than elaboration and ornament. Its dramatic site atop Stag Hill overlooks Guildford and can be seen for miles around.

Text and map copyright © 2010 by Earl Steinbicker

 

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Woodstock, England

Another selection from my travel guidebook Daytrips London is this easy and very popular outing to one of the grandest of grand palaces anywhere — Blenheim, the birthplace of Sir Winston Churchill.

Trip 38

Woodstock

Blenheim Palace is the attraction that brings thousands of visitors from all over the globe to the ancient town of Woodstock. One of the greatest of England's stately homes, it was built in the early 18th century as a fitting tribute to John Churchill, the first duke of Marlborough, who routed the French and Bavarians at the Battle of Blenheim in 1704. Before this, the vast property on which it sits was a royal hunting preserve. A manor house existed on the site since at least the time of Æthelred the Unready, everyone's favorite Saxon king. Henry I made great improvements, and his mansion remained a residence of royalty down through Tudor days. By the time Blenheim Palace was built, however, the old structure had almost fallen to ruin and all traces of it were demolished.

Woodstock itself originally grew up to service the royal manor. Several inns were established for this purpose, and today continue to provide hospitality to the many visitors who come to see Blenheim Palace. There is also a fine museum of rural life, an interesting church, and lovely old streets lined with picturesque buildings.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains depart London's Paddington Station frequently for the one-hour trip to Oxford, where you change to local bus S3. Train schedules at W: firstgreatwestern.co.uk. There is also excellent bus (coach) service from London's Victoria Coach Station to Oxford, taking about 1½ hours, W: oxfordtube.com. Local buses leave from various points in Oxford, including the train station. This service changes frequently, so check with the Oxford Tourist Centre (see page 000) for current details. The bus ride from Oxford to Woodstock takes less than 30 minutes. Schedules at W: stagecoachbus.com/timetables/S3.

By Car, Woodstock is 64 miles northwest of London. Take the A40 and M40 to Oxford, then continue on the A44 to Woodstock.

PRACTICALITIES:

Blenheim Palace is open daily from mid-February through October, and on Wednesdays to Sundays from November until mid-December. Fine weather will make this trip much more enjoyable. Some online information is available at W: woodstock-oxfordshire.com. Woodstock is in the county of Oxfordshire, and has a population of about 3,000.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

The town of Woodstock has quite a few inns, pubs, and restaurants, including:

Feathers (Market St.) Elegant, dressy dining with French overtones in a small hotel. For reservations T: (01993) 812-291. £££

The Bear (Park St.) A coaching inn from the 16th century. T: (0870) 400-8202. £££

Brothertons Brasserie (1 High St.) Light meals with a creative touch. T: (01993) 811-114. £ and ££

Black Prince (Manor Rd., just north along Oxford St.) A popular local pub with good food. T: (01993) 811-530. £

Blenheim Palace offers several places for a full meal or just a snack, including an inexpensive cafeteria.

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Begin your visit at the bus stop (1) on Oxford Street opposite the Marlborough Arms Hotel and follow the map down Market and Park streets to the entrance of the Blenheim Palace grounds. The Triumphal Arch (2), designed in 1723 by Nicholas Hawksmoor as a monument to the first duke of Marlborough, is a fitting introduction to so grandiose a place. On your right is a lake created in 1764 by the renowned landscape architect Lancelot “Capability” Brown.

*BLENHEIM PALACE (3), T: (01993) 811-325, W: blenheimpalace.com. Open mid-February through Oct., daily 10:30-5:30; November through mid-December, Wed.-Sun. 10:30-5:30. Last admission at 4:45. £££. Park open all year, daily 9-5. Park only ££. Frequent events. Food service.

Blenheim Palace has been continuously occupied by the dukes of Marlborough since it was begun by Sir John Vanbrugh in the early 18th century as a gift from Queen Anne. Sir Winston Churchill, grandson of the seventh duke, was born here in 1874 and is buried nearby at Bladon Church. There is an exhibition of his personal belongings in the palace, which remains home to the present (11th) duke. To see its magnificent interior you can either take one of the frequent guided tours, lasting about an hour, or wander through on your own.

Be sure to explore at least part of the palace grounds after seeing the interior. The Butterfly House, where exotic tropical butterflies live in a virtually natural habitat, is another attraction included in the entrance fee. You can get to it by miniature railway or on foot. Close to this is the Marlborough Maze (4), the world's largest symbolic hedge maze.

A pleasant way to return to Woodstock is to follow the route on the map (photo, above). The Grand Bridge (5), an extravagant span over what was then only a creek, was part of Vanbrugh's original design. Most of it is now under water. The land just beyond it was the site of the old Woodstock Manor, for centuries a country residence for England's kings and queens.

Back in the village, stroll down Park Street and visit the small but interesting Oxfordshire Museum (6), which features displays of local life through the centuries along with temporary exhibitions. It is located in the historic Fletchers House, which also has a small Tourist Office and a coffee shop. T: (01993) 811-456, W: oxfordshire.gov.uk/the_oxfordshire_museum.

The town stocks (image, right), outside the museum, have holes for five legs. Was this a joke or did Woodstock have an unusual number of one-legged culprits? The Church (7) is often overlooked but is actually a fascinating study in changing styles, ranging from Norman to Perpendicular. Beyond this, the village offers several interesting shops and some very appealing pubs in which to relax.

Text and map copyright © 2009 by Earl Steinbicker.

 

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An UPDATED version of this trip is featured in my new Daytrips From London guidebook.

Arundel, England

 

 

This little do-it-yourself adventure in England is taken from my new guidebook Daytrips From London, available now.

Trip 12

Arundel

Like a vision from a fairy tale, the picture-book town of Arundel nestles snugly at the base of its massive castle. Both date from the time of the Norman Conquest, and possibly even earlier. Arundel was mentioned in the Domesday Book of 1086 as a port of some consequence, which it remained throughout the Middle Ages. There is still a good deal of boating activity on its river, the Arun, which flows into the sea at nearby Littlehampton. Delightful country walks can be made along its banks and to the Arundel Wetlands Centre, or through peaceful Arundel Park. Those preferring more sedentary activities will find excellent antique and crafts shops, charming pubs, and a  small museum. The main attraction remains, of course the castle — one of the finest in all England.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains to Arundel leave hourly from London's Victoria Station. The journey takes about 90 minutes, with return services until mid-evening.

 By Car, Arundel is 56 miles south of London via the A24 and A29 roads.

PRACTICALITIES:

Avoid coming on a Monday (except in August) or between early November and the end of March, when the castle is closed. The local Tourist Information Centre, T: (01903) 882-268, W: sussexbythesea.com, is at 1-3 Crown Yard Mews on River Road. Arundel is in the county of West Sussex, and has a population of about 3,000.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Among the many restaurants, pubs, and tea rooms are:

    The Town House (65 High St.) Fine dining in an elegant Regency building, with less expensive lunch choices. Reserve, T: (01903) 883-847, W: thetownhouse.co.uk. ££ and £££

    Arun Restaurant (in the Norfolk Arms Hotel, 22 High St.) Traditional English dishes at an old coaching inn. T: (01903) 882-101, W: norfolkarmshotel.com. ££

    Tudor Rose (49 High St.) Light meals in a quaint tearoom stuffed with all manner of oddities. T: (01903) 883-813. £

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leaving the train station (1), turn left and follow The Causeway and Queen Street to the River Arun. Because the main part of castle does not open until noon, you might want to begin with a short country walk of a bit over one mile.

To do this, cross the bridge and turn right on Mill Road, passing a parking lot. Continue on until you come to a recreation ground on the right. Just beyond this turn right on a well-defined track that leads to the river, then turn right and follow the embankment with its gorgeous views of town and castle. Back near the bridge are the ruins of the Dominican Priory (2), founded in the mid-13th century for preaching friars near the bridge and market place where townspeople came together. Nearby, in temporary quarters, is the Arundel Museum and Heritage Centre, featuring displays of bygone times with models, tools, weapons, clothes, photographs and the like. T: (01903) 88-23-04, W: arundelmuseum.org.uk. Open mid-March through late Oct., daily, 11-3. £. A new museum building is to be located closeby.

Follow the map uphill to:

*ARUNDEL CASTLE (3), T: (01903) 883-136, W: arundelcastle.org. Open Tues.-Sun. (plus Mon. in Aug.), first Sat. in April to first Sun. in November., grounds at 10, keep at 11, interior at noon. Closes at 5. Last admission at 4. ££₤. Restaurant. Gift shop. Enter castle via drawbridge.

Arundel Castle is everything a great fortress should be. Built in the late 11th century, it was besieged by Henry I in 1102 and again by King Stephen in 1139. After severe damage caused by Parliamentary forces during the Civil War in 1643, it fell into a dilapidated state until restoration began in the 18th century. What you see today is mostly a romantic Victorian vision, a stately home with all the trappings of a medieval stronghold. Throughout most of its history, the castle has been the seat of the dukes of Norfolk and their ancestors, the Fitzalans. This family, among the highest nobility in England, has always remained Roman Catholic despite centuries of persecution, a fact that explains much of what you'll see in Arundel.

Enter the castle grounds via Lower Lodge in Mill Road and follow the signed route up the driveway. Enter the castle itself via an iron gateway and a flight of steps. The immense *Barons' Hall features some interesting paintings, including a portrait by Van Dyck. The route leads past the Dining Room and the drawing room, which has an appealing lived-in quality and several fine portraits by Gainsborough, Reynolds, and Van Dyck. The elaborate bed in the Victoria Room was made for the queen's visit in 1846. From here you go through the handsome Library and several smaller rooms to an exit near the keep the shop and restaurant.

Before or after touring the main castle building, you might want to climb the steps of the 12th-century Keep, which was occupied only during a siege. A banner is flown from its top whenever the duke is in residence.

Before leaving the castle grounds, take a walk over to the 14th-century Fitzalan Chapel (4). Many of the earls of Arundel and dukes of Norfolk are buried here. A wrought-iron grill and glass wall separates this Catholic chapel from the Anglican parish church, another part of the same building.

Exit through the gate and stroll up London Road. On your right is the Protestant part of the church, which makes an interesting contrast and should be visited.

Just beyond this stands the Roman Catholic Cathedral of Our Lady and St. Philip Howard (5), begun in a grandiose French Gothic style in 1869 as a parish church. It became a cathedral only in 1965, when a new bishopric was created for the region. Inside is the tomb of the 13th Earl of Arundel, canonized in 1970 as Saint Philip, who died in the Tower of London in 1595 for the crime of praying for the success of the Spanish Armada. Other features of the cathedral include its attractive rose window above the west door, and its fine stone carvings throughout. T: (01903) 882-297. Open daily 9-6, or dusk when earlier. Free. 

Follow the map to the spooky Ghost Experience (6), in the underground prison cells of the old Town Hall, where ghosts of former inmates tell their tales. Open daily, 10-6, ££. T: (01903) 889-821, W: arundelghostexperience.com. 

Two other places in Arundel may interest you, both just off the map but within easy walking distance along Mill Road (7). They are Arundel Park, a gorgeous 1,100-acre spread of natural beauty beginning at Swanbourne Lake, and the Arundel Wetland Centre where you can observe a great variety of exotic wildfowl from around the world in natural environments from hidden vantage points. The latter is open daily from 9:30–5:30, closing at 4:30 p.m. in winter. Last admission an hour before closing. Closed Christmas Day. ££₤. Restaurant. Gift shop. Picnic facilities. T: (01903) 883-355, W: wwt.org.uk.

Text and map copyright © 2009 by Earl Steinbicker

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King's Lynn, England

Trip 50

King's Lynn

A Daytrip from London

 

 

 

Steeped in atmosphere and haunted by its past, King's Lynn is neither quaint nor picturesque. What makes it appealing, though, is the sharply medieval aura of its narrow streets and ancient buildings. Once an outpost of the Hanseatic League, its older sections are more reminiscent of northern Germany or the Low Countries than of England. Like so many great places, Lynn reveals itself slowly and with reluctance. Much of it is mundane. Yet, to stroll its quays and half-forgotten alleyways is to awaken memories of a world long vanished.

 

The River Great Ouse brought early prosperity to Lynn. Connecting the seaport with the rich hinterlands of England, the Ouse provided a watery route for commerce to follow. And follow it did. By the end of the 12th century, Lynn was the fifth-largest port in England and the center of trade with the frozen north. Then known as Bishop's Lynn, the town expanded rapidly during the 11th century and began its Hanseatic association in the 13th. When exports declined in the 14th century, the port turned to coastal shipping and fishing. Henry VIII knew a good thing and made the place his own in 1537, changing the name to King's Lynn. Prosperity continued through the 18th century, when the coming of the railways rendered the inland waterways and coastal shipping obsolete, making Lynn the backwater port and market town that it is today.

If time permits, or if you’re staying overnight, you might consider visiting nearby Castle Rising and Sandringham, a home of the Royal Family.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains operated by First Capital Connect depart London's King's Cross Station hourly for the under-two-hour ride to King's Lynn, with returns until late evening. 

By Car, follow the M11 to Cambridge and switch to the A10.  King's Lynn is 103 miles north of London.

 PRACTICALITIES:

This trip can be taken in any season. Colorful outdoor markets are held every Tuesday, Friday, and Saturday. The local Tourist Information Centre, T: (01553) 763-044, W: visitwestnorfolk.com, is in the Custom House (5) on Purfleet Quay. King's Lynn is in the county of Norfolk, and has a population of about 40,000.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

You'll find pubs and restaurants all along the walking route, including:

Griffins (Duke’s Head Hotel, Tuesday Market Place) Inventive International dishes in an historic country hotel. T: (01553) 774-996. ££

Riverside Rooms (in the Arts Centre) An atmospheric restaurant on the river's edge, with indoor and outdoor seating. T: (01553) 773-134. X: Sun. ££

Tudor Rose (St. Nicholas St., off Tuesdays Market Place) A 15th-century inn with a restaurant. T: (01553) 762-824. £ and ££

Archers (Purfleet St., near the Custom House) A convenient spot for an inexpensive lunch. T: (01553) 764-411. X: Sun. £

Giffords (Purfleet St., off King St.) A wine bar with good-value meals, including vegetarian. T: (01553) 769-177. X: Sun. eve. £

Hog’s Head (High St., below Tuesday Market Place) A busy pub with good ales. T: (01553) 660-780. £

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leave the train station (1) and follow the map to the Tuesday Market Place (photo, above) (2), an attractive open square where a colorful outdoor market is held each Tuesday. At its far end turn right on St. Nicholas Street and stroll over to St. Nicholas' Chapel, founded in 1145 to handle the overflow from St. Margaret's Church, which by the 12th century was already too small for the growing population. The present structure dates from 1419 but is now closed. Behind it is True’s Yard (3), all that’s left of an old fishing community that was largely demolished during a slum clearance in the 1930s. Two adjoining cottages have been lovingly restored to tell the story of the hard, dangerous life the Northenders lived in the 1850s and 1920s. A guide will take you around, and perhaps let you into the old St. Nicholas’ Chapel. T: (01553) 770-479, W: welcome.to/truesyard. Open daily, 9:30-3:45. £. Gift shop.

Return to the Market Place, noticing the fine old houses on its north side, and make a left. At the far corner of Water Lane is the Corn Exchange, an exuberant Victorian building of 1854, now converted into a theater.

The King’s Lynn Arts Centre (4) is a complex fronting on King Street. It occupies the former *Guildhall of St. George, the oldest and largest medieval merchants' guild building in England. Built around 1410, this may be the only building still standing in England in which Shakespeare probably performed in one of his own plays. Again used as a theater, it is the center of the annual King's Lynn Festival held in late July. T: (01553) 773-578, W: kingslynnarts.co.uk. Open to visitors Mon.-Fri. 10-4, Sat. 10-1 and 2-3:30; except when it's in use. Free. The adjoining structures, all beautifully restored, now house an art gallery and restaurant.

Turn right on Ferry Lane and walk out to the quay (photo, above, at low tide) for some good views of the old harbor. There is a tiny ferry from here to West Lynn.

King Street has hardly changed through the centuries. Wealthy merchants once lived in the homes along its west side, behind which stand ancient warehouses and private wharfs. Here and there, narrow alleyways lead to the river. The same pattern of residences and adjoining warehouses repeats itself on Queen Street and other streets parallel to the Ouse. At the corner of Purfleet Street, once a fleet, or creek, is located the most notable structure in Lynn, the *Custom House (photo, top of page) (5). Built in 1683 as a merchants' exchange, it was designed in the Palladian style by the town's mayor, Henry Bell, who was also an accomplished architect. The niche over its entrance contains a statue of Charles II. This elegant structure now houses the Tourist Information Centre.

Turn right into King Staithe Square. A staithe is a waterside depot equipped for loading boats. The Bank House on its south side has historic significance as it was from here that the explorer Samuel Cresswell successfully set out in 1850 to discover a northwest passage to India. Note the statue of Charles I above the doorway.

Turn left and follow South Quay. King Staithe Lane, to the left, is a delightful remnant of the past. Continue along the quay to the Green Quay Discovery Centre (6), a thoroughly up-to-date interactive celebration of The Wash and its environment, complete with an aquarium, videos, computers, telescopes, and more. T: (01553) 818-500, W: thegreenquay.co.uk. Open daily 9-5. Free.

Make a left into St. Margaret's Lane. The Hanseatic Warehouses (7), now restored and used as offices, were built in 1428 by the Hansa merchants as their local depot. Next door to them is Hampton Court, a great block of merchants' homes, countinghouses, warehouses, and apprentices' quarters, begun before 1200 but considerably altered later.

Turn right on Nelson Street, which has some very attractive old façades. Follow Bridge Street to All Saints' Street. Along the way you will pass the timber-framed Greenland Fishery of 1605. In the 18th century it became a pub frequented by whalers, hence its name. It is now used for offices. Making a left up Church Lane, stop at All Saints' Church (8), built in the 14th century over Norman foundations. The painted rood screen is about 600 years old. Continue through the churchyard to Tower Place and turn right down St. James' Street to the Greyfriars Tower (9). Dating from the 15th century, this is all that remains of the old Greyfriars monastery that was disbanded by Henry VIII.

Return to St. James' Street and turn left, then make another left on Church Street. A right on Priory Lane leads to the Priory Cottages. In the courtyard, reached through an archway, stand some magnificently preserved old houses, once part of a Benedictine priory established about 1100. Go around the corner and visit St. Margaret's Church (photo, left) (10), one of the few parish churches to have two towers. A mixture of styles ranging from Norman to Victorian, the huge church was founded about 1100 and is noted for its two great Flemish brasses, each nearly ten feet long. Don't miss the flood marks by the entrance; the latest, and highest, being dated 1978. They tell a lot about the hazards of living in Lynn.

Cross the Saturday Market Place to the 15th-century Guildhall of the Holy Trinity (11), incorporating parts of the present Town Hall and the Old Gaol. Inside this lurks a scary exhibition called Tales of the Old Gaol House, recalling stories of local witches, murderers, robbers, and highwaymen set in the original 18th- and 19th-century cells. The tour begins in King’s Lynn’s 1930s police station and ends as the culprits meet their doom. Included in the visit is an astonishing collection of regalia, including the famous so-called “King John Cup,” probably of 16th-century origin but having nothing to do with the tyrant who, however, did grant the royal charter of 1204. Among the borough archives is the Red Register of 1300, one of the oldest paper books in the world. T: (01553) 774-297. Open Easter through Oct., Mon.-Sat. 10-5; Nov. to Easter, Tues.-Sat. 10-4. ££.

Thoresby College, opposite the Guildhall on Queen Street, was built about 1500 and is now a youth hostel. Farther along, at number 46 Queen Street, you will come to the Town House Museum of Lynn Life (12). This superb attraction re-creates ordinary life in Lynn throughout the ages, with all manner of artifacts on display, including period room settings from the Middle Ages, the 17th century, the Victorian and Edwardian eras, both World Wars, and the 1950s. T: (01553) 773-450. Open May-Oct., Mon.-Sat. 10-5, Feb.-April, Mon.-Sat. 10-4. Closed Bank Holidays. Gift shop. £. 

Turn right on Purfleet Street and follow the map through a modern shopping center to Market Street and the Lynn Museum (13). Four thousand years of West Norfolk life are brought to life here with active displays and re-created settings from prehistoric to Victorian times. T: (01553) 775-001. Open Tues.-Sat. 10-5. £.

From the nearby bus station you can get a ride to nearby Castle Rising or Sandringham before ambling back to the train station.

 

NEARBY  SIGHTS:

Castle Rising (photo, right)(14), built in 1138, is one of the best Norman castles still standing in England. It can be reached by taking the bus marked for Hunstanton, which runs every half-hour.  Ask the driver to let you off at the right place and be sure to inquire about the return schedule before leaving Lynn. The ride takes only 20 minutes. T: (01553) 631-330, W: castlerising.co.uk. Castle open April-Oct., daily 10-6; Nov.-March, Wed.-Sun. 10-4. ££, includes audio tour. Picnic area. 

Sandringham (15), a home of the Royal Family, lies just beyond this on the same bus route. Purchased by Queen Victoria in 1862, its 600-acre spread of landscaped beauty was the favorite residence of George V. Besides the mansion, you can visit the extensive gardens, and the coach museum with its collection of royal cars from a 1900 Daimler to the half-scale Aston Martin used by princes William and Harry. T: (01553) 772-675, W: sandringhamestate.co.uk. Open mid-April-late July and Aug.-Oct., daily 11-4:45. Closed when the Royal Family is in residence, usually mid-July to early Aug. Ask at the tourist office. £££; less for just the grounds and museum. Gift shop. Restaurants. Those with cars should follow the A149 north in the direction of Hunstanton.

Text and map copyright © 2003 by Earl Steinbicker, updated to 2009.

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The new, updated 2011 DAYTRIPS FROM LONDON is now available. 

Hastings, England

 

 

 

Here's another chapter from my travel guidebook Daytrips London, which I've just revised for the new 2011 Daytrips From London guidebook. Enjoy: 

 

 Trip 19

Hastings

 

An intriguing combination of past and present, Hastings has managed to maintain its heritage while serving as a popular resort. In a sense it is really two towns split neatly down the middle.

With origins going back to the 7th century, Hastings became one of the Cinque Ports during the time of Edward the Confessor. It had a harbor then, which silted up during the 12th century, never to be successfully rebuilt. William the Conqueror invaded the town in 1066 after landing his Norman troops at nearby Pevensey Bay. The famous Battle of Hastings was fought a few days later on a hill six miles to the northwest, the site of today's village of Battle. During the Hundred Years War of the 14th century the town was repeatedly pillaged by the French. It survived as a fishing village, a role it still plays, and in the 19th century became the seaside resort it is today. Although some of its past glory has sadly faded, enough of interest remains to make this indeed a worthwhile daytrip.

This trip can easily be combined with one to either Rye, Battle, or Tunbridge Wells as there are excellent rail and road connections.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains to Hastings, operated by Southeastern, leave from London's Charing Cross Station at frequent intervals. The journey takes about 90 minutes, and return service operates until late evening. Some require a change enroute.

By Car, Hastings is 63 miles (100 km) southeast of London via the A21 highway.

PRACTICALITIES:

Being a seaside resort, Hastings is best visited during the summer, although the main attractions are open all year round. Good weather is essential to enjoy this trip fully.

The local tourist office, T: (01424) 781-111, W: www.visit1066country.com/hastings/, is by the Town Hall on Queens Square. Hastings is in the county of East Sussex and has a population of about 86,000.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

There are numerous tourist eateries all along the walking route, including:

     Dragon Bar (71 George St., near the West Hill Lift, beneath the Castle) Unusual foods in a comfy setting. T: (01424) 423-688. X: Sun. dinner. ££ and £££

    ThaiXperience (6 Claremont, two blocks southwest of tourist office) Superb modern Thai cuisine in a contemporary setting. T: (01424) 440-074, W: thaixperience.co.uk. X: Mon., Tues. lunch. ££ and £££

    Cosmo (Havelock Road, a block west of the tourist office) Chinese cuisine, upstairs fine dining, downstairs an all-you-can-eat buffet. £ and ££

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leaving the train station (1), follow Havelock Road and Castle Street to Marine Parade. Continue up George Street to the West Hill Lift (photo, right), which will spare you a climb to the castle. Operates Apr.-Oct. daily 10:30-5:30; Nov.-March daily 11-4. ₤. From the top of the hill, bear left to the cliff overlooking the beach for a marvelous view and the:

1066 STORY in HASTINGS CASTLE (2), West Hill, T: (01424) 781-111, W: sugglersadventure.co.uk. Open Easter-Oct., daily 11-5; Oct.. to Easter 11-4. ₤₤, combination ticket with Smugglers Adventure (below) available.

Hastings Castle was built by William the Conqueror shortly after the Battle of Hastings. Now little more than a romantic ruin, it is still very much worth exploring. Be sure to visit the 1066 Story, where those dramatic events of long ago are brought to life with modern audiovisual technology — all inside a re-created medieval siege tent.

Stroll over to the:

SMUGGLERS ADVENTURE in ST. CLEMENT’S CAVES (3), West Hill, T: (01424) 422-964, W: sugglersadventure.co.uk. Open daily 10-5:30. Closed Dec. 25-26. £££.

St. Clement's Caves are an extensive and somewhat bizarre network of rambling subterranean passages, partly natural and partly man-made. They were used in centuries past by smugglers, a drama recalled today in the Smugglers’ Adventure exhibition deep within the labyrinth. The adventure walk encounters over 50 life-size figures in re-created settings, complete with sound effects and a few surprises. There is also a museum and a video theater. 

The most interesting part of Hastings is its Old Town, a picturesque fishermen's quarter of narrow streets and ancient buildings. Descend into it via Exmouth Place and turn left on Hill Street. St. Clement's Church (4) dates from the 14th century. Two cannon balls are lodged in the south wall of its tower, the one on the right being the result of a French bombardment in the late 17th century. The other one was put there just to balance things off. Inside, there are some fine stained-glass windows and two superb old brasses.

Walk down to High Street and turn left to the Old Town Hall, now the Old Town Hall Museum (5). Life-size mannequins provide a touch of the past while other displays are concerned with the Battle of Hastings, the story of the Cinque Ports, and smuggling — once a major vocation in these parts. T: (0845) 274-1053, W: hmag.org.uk. Open April-Sept., Mon.-Sat. 10-5, Sun. 11-5; Oct.-March, Mon.-Fri. 10-4, Sat.-Sun. 11-4. Donation.

Continuing up High Street with its Tudor homes on the left, you will come to the Stables Theatre, which at one time housed horses for the 18th-century Old Hastings House at the top of the street.

Return by way of All Saints' Street. Destroyed by the French in 1377, All Saints' Church was rebuilt in the 15th century. Inside, there is a well-preserved mural from that time depicting the Last Judgement. Farther along, on the left, is the Piece of Cheese, a peculiar wedge-shaped house that resembles its name.

Probably the best-known sight in Hastings is of its Net Shops (photo, above)(6), an extraordinary group of tall black wooden sheds used by fishermen to store their nets. The unusual shape, unchanged since Elizabethan times, was dictated by high rents on the available ground between the sea and cliff. Next to this is the fish market, a place where local fish-ermen sell the day's catch right off the boat.

The Fishermen's Museum (7) on Rock-a-Nore Road houses the Enterprise, the last fishing vessel to be built in Hastings before the local shipyards closed in 1909. It is typical of the luggers, a style of wide boats with thick bottoms designed to be beached in these harborless waters. Like most of the Hastings luggers, she ferried men back from Dunkirk in that heroic rescue of 1940. There are other fascinating items in the museum as well. T: (01424) 461-446, W: hastingsfish.co.uk. Open April-Oct., daily 10-5; Nov.-March, daily 10-4. Donation. 

Just up the road a few yards is the Shipwreck & Coastal Heritage Centre (8), where over 3,000 years of maritime history are illustrated with exhibitions of underwater treasures. There is a spectacular audiovisual show and working radar equipment allowing you to monitor shipping activity in the English Channel. T: (01424) 437-452, W: shipwreckheritage.org.uk. Open April-Oct., daily 10:30-5, Oct.-April, daily 11-4. Donation.

Nearly adjacent to this is the Blue Reef Aquarium (9), one of those modern aquariums where you can walk below the sea without getting wet — and look up at the sharks. There’s also a touch pool, a seabed, a sea lab, a show, and more. T: (01424) 718-776. Open daily 10-5:30. Closed Dec. 24-26. ££₤.  

From here you can stroll back along the shore. The character quickly changes to that of a resort as you pass a small boating lake and amusement area.

The Museum and Art Gallery (10), on the way back to the train station, is worth a stop. It has interesting collections of Sussex ironwork, local ceramics, and a fantastic pavilion from a 19th-century Indian Colonial palace. T: (0845) 274-1052, W: hmag.org.uk. Open April-Sept., Mon.-Sat. 10-5, Sun. 11-5; Oct.-March, Mon.-Fri. 10-4, Sat.-Sun. 11-4. Donation.

From here it is only a short stroll back to the train station.

Text and map copyright © 2003 by Earl Steinbicker, updated to 2009.

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Dover, England

NEW FOR 2011: Daytrips From London. Here's a sample entry:

 

Trip 14

Dover

For over two thousand years the fabled White Cliffs of Dover have marked the gateway to England. Iron Age man settled these shores, and so did the Romans, who built their port of Dubris here in AD 43. Strategically, Dover is of paramount importance to Britain, being the closest point to the Continent and only 22 miles from France. A great fortress inevitably rose on this site, defending the island nation right down to modern times. Today, the massive 12th-century castle is a major tourist attraction that’s well worth the daytrip itself, while the harbor it overlooks is the busiest passenger port in England.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains to Dover's Priory Station operated by Southeastern leave at least hourly from Victoria station in London, with a journey time of nearly two hours. Be sure to board the correct car as some trains split en route. There is also slower service from London's Charing Cross station, requiring a change enroute. Return service operates until mid-evening.

By Car, Dover is 74 miles (118 km) southeast of London by way of either the A2 and M2 highways, or the A20 and M20 highways.

PRACTICALITIES:

Good weather is essential for this largely outdoor trip, especially for the maritime views for which you might want to bring along binoculars. The Castle is open every day except on Tuesdays and Wednesdays from November through January, and on Christmas Day, Boxing Day, and New Year's, but the Roman Painted House is closed in winter and on Mondays.

The local Tourist Information Centre, T: (01304) 205-108, W: whitecliffscountry.org.uk, is in the Old Town Gaol on Biggin Street, in the town center. Dover is in the county of Kent, and has a population of about 34,000.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

     Cullins Yard (11 Cambridge Rd., by the harbor, between Marine Parade and the Prince of Wales Pier) Mostly seafood, with a wide beer selection and a boat-shaped bar. T: (01304) 211-666, W: cullinsyard.com. ££

    Dino's Italian Restaurant (58 Castle St., near the Market Square) Good Italian cooking at modest prices. T: (01304) 294-678, W: dinosrestaurant.co.uk. X: Mon. ££

    La Salle Verte (14/15 Cannon St., near the Dover Museum) Light meals, sandwiches and snacks, served woth organic coffee or tea. T: (01304) 201-547, W: lasalleverte.co.uk. £

    Inexpensive cafeteria meals are available at the castle.

    

 SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

From Priory Station (1) you can either take a bus direct to the castle or follow the map into town. Here, at the Bus Station (2), you can get a ride up to the castle, perched dramatically atop a nearby hill. It is also possible to get there by taxi or car, or even on foot if you don't mind the stiff climb.

 

*DOVER CASTLE (3-4), T: (01304) 201-628, W: English-heritage.org.uk. Open Apr.-July, daily 10-6; Aug., daily 9:30-6; Sept., daily 10-6; Oct., daily 10-5; Nov.-Jan, Thurs.-Mon. 10-4; Feb.-March, daily 10-5. Last admission one hour before closing. Closed Dec. 24-26 and New Year’s Day. £££. Snack bar. Gift shop.

Dover Castle is by far the finest and most fascinating military structure in England. While essentially of Norman construction, parts of it date from Saxon and even Roman times. Brutally strong, its 20-foot-thick walls have withstood sieges during its entire history. Begin your visit with the mighty Keep (3), surrounded by a defensive curtain wall. Built in 1180 by Henry II to replace earlier structures, the keep has been continually modified down through the centuries. You can easily spend hours exploring the many rooms and passageways, and examining the exhibitions displayed there — including re-creations of the Siege of 1216 and preparations for the arrival of Henry VIII and the Tudor Court. Be sure to get up to the roof, from which there is a fabulous *view extending all the way to France in clear weather. A visit to the Underground Works beneath the castle is well worth the effort, although it involves some steep climbs. The entry to this tunnel system is just outside the keep, and an audio guided tour is available.

The existence of a maze of secret tunnels used in World War II was declassified in 1986, and parts of the subterranean labyrinth later opened to visitors. Known as the *Secret Wartime Tunnels, the complex is shown on tours that include control rooms, a hospital, and an opening in the side of the White Cliffs from which Winston Churchill watched the Battle of Britain — made all the more realistic with sounds, smells, and audiovisuals.

More of the castle's past can be seen by strolling over to the Pharos (4) (photo, right), a Roman lighthouse erected in the 2nd century AD to guide the Imperial Navy into port. This is the tallest surviving Roman structure in Britain. Directly adjacent to it stands the Saxon Church of St. Mary de Castro, which was heavily restored during the 19th century. Although its exact age is unknown, parts of it may date from as far back as the 7th century. From here you might want to amble around the outer ramparts before leaving the precincts. Don't miss Queen Elizabeth's Pocket Pistol, a 24-foot-long cannon presented to Henry VIII.

Return to the town by bus or, since it is downhill, on foot.  Just follow the path opposite the bus stop, which leads through Victoria Park. Laureston Place and Castle Hill Road will bring you to Castle Street, at the end of which is the Market Square, built over the site of the ancient Roman harbor. From there take King and Bench streets to Marine Parade.

There are splendid views of the harbor from Marine Parade (5), but for an even better look you should walk out on the Prince of Wales Pier (6), which offers wonderful panoramas of the famous White Cliffs. From here you can watch the comings and goings of the speedy SeaCats and leisurely ferries. No quick trip through the Channel Tunnel will ever match the experience of a genuine sea voyage to the Continent.

Return to Market Square and the:

DOVER MUSEUM & BRONZE AGE BOAT GALLERY (7), T: (01304) 201-066, W: dovermuseum.co.uk. Open Mon.-Sat., 10-5:30; also Sun. from April through Aug., noon-5. Closed Dec. 25-26 and Jan. £.

Dover’s Roman history is explored in an archaeological gallery on the ground floor, which also includes finds from an Anglo-Saxon cemetery. Upstairs, there are special exhibitions and artifacts of local history from 1066 to the present day. The center of attraction, though, is the world’s oldest seagoing boat, built some 3,550 years ago and discovered in a Dover dig in 1992. Along with this is a re-created full-scale Bronze Age home, many treasures from that time, and interactive computers that allow you to build your own boat and see if it survives a Channel crossing.

Nearby, on New Street, is the Roman Painted House (8). Britain's answer to Pompeii, this excavated 2nd-century town house has lovely painted walls and an intact underfloor heating system. T: (01304) 203-279. Open April-Sept. Tues.-Sat. 10-5, also on Sun. from April-Aug., noon-5; and on Bank Holiday Mon. in July-Aug. £.

Now follow Cannon Street and Biggin Street to the Tourist Office (9) in the Old Town Gaol by the historic Town Hall. St. Edmund's Chapel (10) on Priory Road is on the way back to the train station. Dating from the 13th century, it ceased religious services in 1544 and was later used as a forge. In 1968 the tiny wayside chapel was re-consecrated and is thought to be the smallest in England in regular use.

Text, B&W photos, and map copyright © 2003 by Earl Steinbicker, updated to 2009.

Color photo by Remi Jouan, used under GNU Free Documentation License.

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The Chiemsee, Germany

From the pages of my guidebooks Daytrips Germany and the more compact Daytrips Bavaria, here's an easy do-it-yourself trip from Munich that features a lake cruise, a ride on a steam train, and a visit to one of Europe's most fabulous palaces — crazy King Ludwig's incomparable Herrenchiemsee.

 

 

 

 

 

Trip 19

The Chiemsee

The enchanting Chiemsee, Bavaria's largest lake, lies just north of the Alps within easy reach of Munich. It was on an island in these idyllic waters that Ludwig II, the unbalanced "Dream King," built a Teutonic version of Versailles as his final castle. He was not the first to appreciate the lonely beauty of this spot, however. As far back as 782 a Benedictine convent was founded on a neighboring island; its 15th-century replacement remains there to this day, as does an old fishing community that is fast becoming a modest resort. Between the nearby town of Prien and the ferry dock a 19th-century narrow-gauge steam train shuttles enthusiastic visitors out for a day of fun, sun, and exploration.

 

 

GETTING  THERE:

Trains depart Munich's main station several times in the morning for the one-hour ride to Prien, the starting point of this trip. Return service operates until mid-evening.

By Car, the Chiemsee is 85 km (54 miles) southeast of Munich via the A-8 Autobahn. Use the Bernau exit and follow signs for Prien, parking at the ferry dock.

PRACTICALITIES:

The best time to visit the Chiemsee is between late May and late September, when boats are frequent and the steam train operates. The castle is open daily all year round, except for a few major holidays. Some boats operate during the off-season. Good weather will greatly enhance this trip. The local Tourist Information Office (Kur-und-Tourismusbüro), T: (08051) 690-50, W: prien.chiemsee.de, is at Altes Rathaus Strasse 11, near the train station in Prien.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

Some choice restaurants and cafés are:

AT STOCK-HAFEN:

Reinhart (Seestr. 117, near the pier) Rustic country charm. T: (08051) 694-401. X: Feb.-March. €€

Luitpold am See (Seestr. 110, near the pier) Indoor/outdoor dining by the lake. T: (08051) 609-100. X: Mon. €€

Neuer am See (Seestr. 104, near the pier) Snacks and meals by the lake. T: (08051) 609-960. X: Oct.-April. € and €€

ON HERRENINSEL:

Schlosshotel Herrenchiemsee (by the Altes Schloss) Noted for its fish dishes, also has outdoor tables and a café. T: (08051) 690-30. €€

Café Ludwig II (in the Schloss Herrenchiemsee) Light meals and snacks on the terrace. T: (08051) €

ON FRAUENINSEL:

Zur Linde (near the pier) A gasthof from the 14th century. T: (08054) 903-66. X: Jan. to mid-March. €€

 

 

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Begin at the Prien Train Station (1). From there you can get to the ferry pier (Stock-Hafen) by either the 19th-century *Chiemsee Bahn steam train departing from the adjacent station, or by bus, depending on which is running at the moment. Just follow the crowds — they're going to the same place. T: (08051) 60-90, W: chiemsee-schifffahrt.de. €.  A combination round-trip ticket for the steam train or bus plus the ferry rides is available, €€. If you decide to walk, or are driving, just follow Seestrasse for about one mile.

Ferries for the two islands depart from the Stock-Hafen Pier (2), and are timed to meet the arrival of trains and buses. Boat tickets are also sold there.

The Chiemsee(pronounced keem-zay) covers an area of over 31 square miles and has three islands; one of which, Krautinsel, is uninhabited. Of the other two, Herreninsel (Men's Island) has had a monastery since the Middle Ages, and Fraueninsel (Ladies' Island) a nunnery since 782. According to legend, Krautinsel (Vegetable Island) was the spot where the monks and nuns got together, at least to grow veggies.

The boat ride to Herreninsel takes only 15 minutes. Upon arrival at its landing stage (3), purchase your palace ticket (also valid for Altes Schloss) and walk uphill (or take the horse-drawn coach, €) to the 17th-century Altes Schloss (4), once the home of Augustinian canons. There is an attractive outdoor café and restaurant in its precincts. There is also the Museum im Alten Schloss, where the 1,200-year history of the island is recounted. Open daily Apr.-Sept., 9-6; Oct. 10-5:45; Nov.-March 10-4:45. €, included with palace. From here a path leads through the woods, opening suddenly to reveal the palace in all its splendor.

King Ludwig II of Bavaria was just about the strangest monarch ever to rule a European country. Born centuries too late, he lived in a sheltered dreamworld of his own making. In the end, events swept him aside and he died tragically at the age of 40. The legacy he left behind, from the operas of Richard Wagner to the fantastic castles dotting the Bavarian landscape, has, however, greatly enriched all of Western civilization.

Rising before you is the:

 

 

*PALACE OF HERRENCHIEMSEE (5), T: (08051) 688-70, W: herren-chiemsee.de. Open April-Sept., daily 9-6; Oct., daily 9:40-5; Nov.-March, daily 9:40-4. Closed Jan. 1, Shrove Tues., Dec. 24, 25, 31. €€.

The Palace of Herrenchiemsee was Ludwig's final paean to an age that vanished long before he was born. Ludwig purchased the island, a religious center until 1803, as the site for his Teutonic Versailles. Louis XIV of France had long been his idol, and he made two visits to Paris to study the palace of the "Sun King." The similarity between the two buildings, while striking, is only superficial — most of the interior decoration at Herrenchiemsee is distinctly German. Construction began in 1878 and continued until 1885, when funds gave out. Ludwig occupied the unfinished Schloss on only one occasion, and then for only 10 days. This was in the fall of 1885. Less than a year later he was deposed, and afterwards found drowned in Lake Starnberg.

The interior of the palace is simply incredible. To see it you will have to join one of the very frequent guided tours, some of which are in English. An illustrated booklet describing the entire palace is available at the entrance, where there is also a small museum devoted to Ludwig's life.

 

Leaving the palace, walk straight ahead to the Latona Fountain (6), which erupts into jets of water at frequent intervals. From here stroll back to the landing stage and board the next boat for Fraueninsel. Ask to make sure that you are on the right boat, as some go to other points on the lake.

Arriving at the Fraueninsel landing stage (7), recheck the posted schedule to determine just how much time can be spent there. Turn left and walk around the Benedictine nunnery, founded in 782 and rebuilt several times. Its Abbey Church (8), dating from the 13th and 15th centuries and combining Romanesque, Gothic, and Baroque elements, is very well worth a visit. W: frauenwoerth.de.

Besides the convent, Fraueninsel is essentially a fishing village, albeit one that is rapidly being taken over by vacationers. A circular stroll around its perimeter reveals an oasis of quiet beauty with a panorama of mountains to the south, a perfect spot to relax at one of the outdoor cafés before returning to Stock-Hafen, Prien, and Munich.

If you have time left in Prien, you might want to visit the town's Folk Museum (Heimatmuseum) in an old farmhouse at Friedhofweg 2, about three blocks west of the train station. Open Wed.-Sat., 10-12 and 2-5, with shorter times in winter. €.

Text, map, and palace photo copyright © 2009 by Earl Steinbicker.

 

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The Avedon Years, Part XLIV

Think Pink — The

Making of Funny Face

Some movies were never destined for greatness, yet remain highly enjoyable and can be watched over and over again, only getting better with age. Such is the case with Funny Face, a 1957 flick inspired by Richard Avedon’s photographic career. Although only 32 at the time, Dick was already famous as the star photographer for Harper’s Bazaar magazine. So it was only natural that Hollywood director Stanley Donen based his fashion-fantasy musical on Avedon, even though the resemblance was more in spirit than in fact.

 

Avedon was hired by Paramount as a consultant on the film, and also had quite a bit to say about which stars would appear in it. He once commented on Fred Astaire playing the role of fashion photographer “Dick Avery” by saying “It’s all very strange. I’d learned how to be me by pretending to be him and then I had to teach him to pretend to be me.” Astaire was Avedon’s childhood idol, so it was no surprise that the dancer was chosen for the part despite being some thirty years older than his co-star Audrey Hepburn in the romantic comedy.

Funny Face began in 1927 as a Broadway Musical starring Fred and Adele Astaire, with music by George and Ira Gershwin. Although the 1957 movie had a completely different story line, both the spirit, the title, and four of the songs are taken directly from the Broadway show.

CLICK on photos to see them supersized

In a previous entry I described our 1955 trip to San Francisco to do a cosmetic ad for Helena Rubinstein featuring supermodel Suzy Parker with the Dave Brubeck Quartet. A second, and more important, part of that trip was a meeting between Avedon and movie director Stanley Donen (born 1924) about a proposed romantic musical comedy inspired by the former’s life in fashion photography. As a result of this meeting I drove Dick and his wife Evie along with Donen and his wife, actress Marion Marshall, to the Hearst Castle at San Simeon for further discussions. 

Since Dick was associated with the Hearst Corporation as a result of his work for Harper’s Bazaar, he had wangled an invitation to use the castle for the meeting. William Randolph Hearst was already dead and the family seldom used the place, which they later gave to the State of California as a tourist attraction. The photo above was taken by Stanley Donen in the castle, showing Avedon (standing), me (seated, puffing on pipe), and Mrs. Donen. During the first hours there, Dick shot some historic pictures of the estate to present to the Hearst family. 

As an accomplished film director, Stanley Donen was most intrigued by this estate being the “real” home of Citizen Kane, a classic 1941 movie by Orson Welles that had been removed from circulation years earlier for legal and financial reasons, as it was thought to portray Hearst in a scandalous light. None of us had ever seen it, and Donen — especially — thought that, perversely, a print just might be hidden away in the estate’s theater. We searched the projection room, but no such luck.

After discussions had reached an agreement, I drove our whole gang south to Los Angeles, dropping them off in Bel Air. From there I drove to Beverly Hills, where I stayed for two days before flying back to New York with the precious film from the San Francisco sitting.

Despite the disparity in ages, Avedon insisted on having his idol Fred Astaire play opposite his muse, Audrey Hepburn. This actually worked out very well and he fit the part better than any other male dancer including the obvious first choice, Gene Kelly. The screenplay was written by Avedon’s friend, playwright Leonard Gershe (1922-2002).  

The story, such as it is, opens with a scene in the New York offices of "Quality," a fictitious slick fashion magazine obviously based on Harper's Bazaar. The head fashion editor, "Maggie Prescott" (photo, left), played wonderfully by Kay Thompson, is a dead ringer for Bazaar's very own Diana Vreeland. After dictating that all the world's women wear pink, she confides that she herself "wouldn't be caught dead in it." Her next inspiration was to depict intellectual women wearing smart designs by leading designers. 

 

For this the whole gang, "Maggie," her fawning assistants, photographer "Dick Avery," and the model "Marion," played by real model Dovima, race down to Greenwich Village and invade a dusty bookstore specializing in odd works by obscure philosophers. The store clerk, "Jo Stockton," played by Audrey Hepburn, appears in the corner of one of the pictures. Back at the office, "Avery" suggests that "Jo" has real charm and would make a great model, despite her "funny face." Later, "Avery" does a song-and-dance in the darkroom with her (photo, left), convincing her that she should go to Paris with them.

So it's off to Paris with "Jo," whose real motivation in going is to meet with her idol, "Professor Emile Flostre" and discuss his theories of "Empathicalism." Arriving at Orly Airport (photo, right), they each take off on their own to see the town before settling down to modeling and photography. This results in wonderful scenes, great music, and some stunning split-screen cinematography. 

 

Then it's down to work photographing the creations of couturier "Paul Duval," a character based on real-life Hubert de Givency — who actually designed all of Audrey Hepburn's Paris costumes (photo, left). But "Jo" was more interested in meeting "Professor Flostre," leading her to overlook some of her responsibilities, such as being there when needed. This leads "Dick" and "Maggie" to pose as beatniks and tear around the Latin Quarter in a strange little car (photo, right) in search of "Flostre" and "Jo." Turns out that "Flostre" is interested in more than philosophy, and "Jo" realizes what a mess she's gotten herself into. After a song-and-dance routine (photo, below), "Maggie" and "Dick" rescue her, "Dick" and "Jo" fall in love, and everything heads to a romantic, happy ending.

Of course, all of this is silly fluff — but that's exactly what makes it so much fun!   

 

Being a major production from Paramount, Funny Face was shot entirely in their proprietary VistaVision process. This high-resolution widescreen system used conventional 35mm motion picture film stock, running horizontally rather than vertically, with an 8-sprocket image measuring a wide 18.3mm x 36mm. It was developed by Paramount in 1954 to compete with  CinemaScope, which used an anamorphic lens to compress widescreen images onto a conventional 4-sprocket 35mm frame running vertically, with an image size of 18.6mm x 21.95mm. VistaVision was quite superior in picture quality but expensive to produce as it used twice as much film stock. It also required a lot of light to maintain depth-of-field, as the larger image size needed longer focal-length lenses and consequently smaller f/stops to keep both foreground and background in common focus. Another drawback was the reluctance on the part of theater owners to purchase the special projectors needed. Paramount overcame this by making compressed release prints that ran on conventional projectors equipped with anamorphic lenses. 

Doing this resulted in loss of image quality, but it was still a bit better than rival systems. The last motion picture shot entirely in VistaVision was in 1961, after which Paramount switched to the anamorphic Panavision. VistaVision was still used for some special effects scenes until being replaced by digital imagery in the early 21st century. 

Strangely, Funny Face was really an MGM movie produced and distributed by rival Paramount. MGM owned the rights to the story, and nearly all of the major creative staff including director Stanley Donen were under contract to them. Fred Astaire was freelancing at the time and owed Paramount a film. Hepburn was Paramount's most valuable star, so in no way would they release her to MGM. Consequently the whole project had to move over to Paramount, as Avedon was insistent on having both Astaire and Hepburn in "his" film.

Filming began in April 1956 and concluded that July.  Prior to that time Dick made a trip to Hollywood in his role as consultant, and again when filming began. He also traveled to Paris in late April to oversee the location shooting there. The photo on the right shows him with Fred Astaire in the Tuileries with a strange French view camera, not the Deardorff he always used at the time. The TLR camera dangling from Astaire's neck isn't a Rolleiflex, either. Sadly, I was not present on any of these shooting days or on the later ones during June and July in Hollywood. The editing was done that Fall, with Avedon present in Los Angeles on October 19-20, November 10-11, and November 14-17; but by that time I had already been drafted into the U.S. Army. Dick wrote to me during basic training offering to arrange a private showing in New York before the premiere if I could get off, although I had to decline rather than go AWOL.

Funny Face was released on VHS Video tape in 1995, and again in 2001. That same year it was also released on DVD, and an improved 50th Anniversary DVD in 2007. In 2009 a 2-disc DVD set including many extras was released as part of the Paramount Centennial Collection.

 

NEW:

Photography's Golden Age ended long ago but remains very much in my memory. From 1952 through 1965 I was assistant to Richard Avedon during his most creative period, and do I have the stories to tell! Now, at the end of 2015, is the time to reveal all while I'm still alive and kicking. Tales of personalities, motivations, intrigues, and even the fine details of how it was all done. 

What I need to make this project a reality is a co-conspirator to aid in getting the whole, true, uncensored story published -- either as a book, an e-book, or even a documentary. I am not interested in self-publishing.

Anyone interested? Leave a comment and I'll get back to you.

 

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Lake Starnberg, Germany

This sample chapter appears in two of my recent guidebooks: the compact Daytrips Bavaria and the more complete Daytrips Germany, 7th Edition. This is an especially easy outing for visitors to Munich, and a most enjoyable one in good weather.

Trip 3

A Daytrip From Munich

Lake Starnberg

 

 

Long a popular playground for the people of Munich, Lake Starnberg is a delightful daytrip destination within sight of the Alps. Its particular attraction, beyond natural beauty, lies in the fact that it is so easy to reach. Only a half-hour ride from the city by commuter train or car, the lake has a good boat service that carries visitors onwards to lovely, secluded villages.

Royalty has been drawn to these shores for centuries. The castle at Berg, still a residence of the Wittelsbachs, was always a favorite of King Ludwig II. It was here, too, that his bizarre life ended in tragedy. The artistic collaboration between Ludwig and the composer Richard Wagner was first realized at Starnberg, with many later scenes in their strange relationship taking place nearby.

For travelers, the Lake Starnberg region offers a wonderful alternative to staying in Munich. A wide choice of accommodations, at prices often well below those in the city, is available through the local tourist office in Starnberg.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains to Starnberg leave frequently from the lower level of Munich's main station. They may also be boarded at other S-Bahn stations, including those under Marienplatz or Karlsplatz. Take route S-6 in the direction of Tutzing for the half-hour ride to Starnberg. Those without railpasses should follow the ticketing instructions on page 00.

By Car, Starnberg is some 26 km (16 miles) southwest of Munich on the A-95 Autobahn.

PRACTICALITIES:

This trip is most pleasant on a fine, warm day in summer; and is well suited for weekend travel. The local Tourist Information Office (Verkehrsamt) in Starnberg is at Wittelsbacherstrasse 2c, T: (08151) 90-60-0, W: sta5.de. The town of Starnberg has a population of about 22,500.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

IN STARNBERG:

Seerestaurant Undosa (Seepromenade 1, on the lake) A big, lively restaurant, indoors and outdoors. T: (08151) 998-930, W: undosa.de. €€

Ristorante Al Gallo Nero (in Seehof Hotel, Bahnhofsplatz 4, by the station) Italian cuisine, with an outdoor café. T: (08151) 22-21. €€

Kðnigswasser (Maximilianstr, 2B, near the station) Light meals and snacks. T: (08151) 444-088. €

AROUND THE LAKE:

Strandhotel Schloss Berg (Seestr. 17, by the dock in Berg) A lovely, quiet hotel at the edge of the lake, with indoor and outdoor dining. T: (08151) 96-30. €€

Seehotel Leoni (Assenbucherstr. 44, by the dock at Leoni) A modern lakeside hotel with a restaurant and outdoor dining. Continental cuisine. T: (08151) 50-60, W: seehotel-leoni.com. €€ and €€€

Tutzinger Biergarten (Midgardstr. 3-5, Tutzing) A charming lakeside beer garden with light meals. T: (08158) 1216. €

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

 

Leave the Starnberg train station (1) and stroll over to the pier, just a few yards away. Study the posted boat schedule and decide whether to take a ride to Berg now, or see the town of Starnberg first. If you choose the latter, continue up Wittelsbacher Strasse past the tourist office to Kirchplatz, where the parish church is located. Boat schedules at W: seenschifffahrt.de.

Cross Hauptstrasse and follow the map past the town hall, climbing uphill to the 16th-century Castle (2) around which the town developed. This is now occupied by government offices, but you can poke your head in for a look. Just beyond the Schloss there is a beautiful garden with fine views of the lake and the distant Alps.

Schlossbergstrasse leads over a boldly designed arch to the St.-Josef-Kirche, an enchanting 18th-century rococo church typical of Bavarian villages. Its interior is well worth a visit, especially for the high altar. 

Return to lakeside via the Günther Steig, Achheimstrasse, and Bahnhofstrasse. Turn right just before the railway to the Museum Starnberger See (3). Originally located in a charming early-16th-century log-built house, one of the oldest structures of its kind in Germany, it has recently overflowed into an adjuacent modern structure. On display here are exhibits on anything having to do with the lake district, from history to culture to nature. T: (08151) 4477-570,W: museum-starnberger-see.de. Open Tues.-Sun. 10-5. €.

From here you can take a lovely stroll along the lakeside promenade (4). There are several outdoor cafés and restaurants along the way, as well as places where you can rent electric boats quite reasonably. This may be a more intriguing idea than the boat ride.

Walk back to the pier (1) and board the boat. The short round-trip cruise (Nördliche-Rundfahrt) goes to Berg and Leoni before returning to Starnberg and takes about an hour, not including stopovers. The *longer round-trip(Grosse-Rundfahrt) covers the entire 12-mile length of the lake, stopping at Berg, Leoni, Possenhofen, Tutzing, Ammerland, Bernried, Ambach, and Seeshaupt; and then makes the same halts on the way back. This takes a total of about three hours, again not counting any stopovers. T: (08151) 8061,W: seenschifffahrt.de. Boats operate from May through mid-Oct. €€ and €€€.

A highly recommended trip is to take the boat to Berg, walk a bit over a mile to Leoni, then either return to Starnberg or continue on the long cruise. If you do the latter you can get off at Possenhofen or Tutzing and catch an S-Bahn train back to Munich rather than return to Starnberg.

 

Disembarking at Berg (5), walk up Wittelsbacher Strasse past Berg Castle, a favorite residence of King Ludwig II. This is where he spent his last captive hours after being deposed in 1886. It is still occupied by the family and cannot be visited. From here a path, Am Hofgarten, leads through the woods to the Votive Chapel erected in his honor. At the water's edge a cross marks the spot where the young monarch's body was found along with that of his doctor. Both drowned under highly mysterious circumstances, possibly murder but more likely a struggle to escape followed by suicide. Completely out of touch with reality, Ludwig's dream world was shattered and he had nothing more to live for.

Following the path to Leoni (6), you can either take a boat back to Starnberg or continue on the long cruise. Suggestions for a stop along the way include Possenhofen (7), where Ludwig's distant cousin, the empress Elisabeth of Austria, spent much of her time. At one point he was engaged to her younger sister Sophie, but this was hastily terminated by the king as the actual date drew near.

From here the boat passes the Roseninsel, a tiny island where Ludwig had yet another castle, and where some of his affairs took place. Tutzing (8), a quiet resort, is the last stop on the lake to be served by S-Bahn commuter trains. Those venturing beyond will have to return by boat. Three other interesting halts are at Ammerland (9), an ancient fishing village with a castle; and Bernried, with its stunning new:

*BUCHHEIM MUSEUM (10), Am Hirschgarten 1, Bernried, T: (08158) 997-060, W: buchheimmuseum.de. Open Tues.-Sun. 10-6, closing at 5 Nov.-March. Restaurant. Café. €€. There is a direct “Phantasie” boat from Starnberg May-Oct., Tues.-Sun., departing Starnberg at 12:30, 2:45, and 5. Combination boat fare and entrance €€€. Calling itself a Museum of the Imagination, the Buchheim displays a fantastic collection of German Expressionist art, especially that of the Brücke movement. Some of the artists represented include Dix, Beckmann, and Schmitt-Rotluff.

The last stop is at Seeshaupt, the southern end of the lake, practically next door to the Alps.

Text and map copyright © 2007, 2009 by Earl Steinbicker. Top photo by Alexander Z., used under GNU Free Documentation License. Bottom photo courtesy of Touismusverband Starnberger Fünf-Seen-Land.

 Other entries on this blog about King Ludwig II are: Bayreuth, Neuschwanstein, and Nymphenburg.

 

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