Life's Little Adventures

Whats wrong with Guided Tours?

I can understand why some people prefer to experience Europe (or any other destination) on guided tours rather than on their own. Tours are easy. They're non-threatening. And they can be realatively inexpensive. But they're just never as rewarding as independent travel.

      For one thing, people on tours are treated more as tourists than as guests. The smiles they get are purchased smiles with hands out for tips, not a genuine friendliness or a desire to communicate.

    Another point is that many, if not most, tour directors lead their sheep to shops and restaurants from which they derive a percentage of the "take." These are seldom "bargains," and they do not result in an authentic experience.

    Then, too, guided tours tend to herd their charges into "attractions" that they consider to be of mass appeal, often at the bequest of the local tourist authorities — which are, after all, businesses. They seldom venture "off the beaten path."

    Plus, except in rare cases, you don't get to choose your travel mates. They may well be great people, or they could be unbearable louts. But whoever they are, you're stuck with them.

    Worst of all, you don't always get to see what YOU want to see.

Independent travelers, on the other hand, enjoy the satisfaction of having accomplished something on their own. And they have more fun doing it (photo, right).

    That's why I do what I do.

    What I do is explore on my own two feet, poke around promising places, develop a rational approach to them, connecting as much as possible with the locals, and then write and draw maps about it. I've been doing this since 1976, when I launched my Great Trips project, which later morphed into today's Daytrips series of guide books.

 

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Cuenca, Spain

Here's another posting from my former Great Trips / Europe project, this one to a most unusual town in Spain. Although written over 30 years ago, the terrific one-day trip from Madrid it describes remains completely feasible today. For current information refer to the websites listed at the end.

"CUENCA"

"Spain"

"A One Day Trip From Madrid"

"Trip 13"

"INTRODUCTION"

"Only a hundred miles from Madrid, at a spot where forbidding mountains give way to the endless plains of La Mancha, lies the isolated medieval town of Cuenca. Spectacular in its tormented hilltop setting, this brooding place of silence and mystery makes an unusual one-day trip. Well off the usual tourist trail, it is doubtful whether you will find any other Americans there. Until quite recently, this city of 35,000 souls was practically inaccessible; today it is linked with the capital by decent transport facilities."

"Originally a Roman site, Cuenca in the 9th century became a Moslem stronghold. Under the Catholic Monarchs it prospered for a while, then fell into decline in the 17th century. Surviving the heavy damage of the Civil War of 1937, Cuenca is now the capital of the province of the same name."

"Cuenca is completely a vertical town; everything is above or below everything else. Streets give way to steps, roads become footpaths. Although short, the walking tour described involves strenuous exercise that cannot be escaped; add to this a base altitude of 3,000 feet above sea level and it will be quickly realized that this trip should not be taken by people in poor physical condition. For the rest of us, a day's excursion to Cuenca is a wonderful stroll into a different world."

"TRANSPORTATION:"

"From Madrid's Atocha Station (near the Prado) take the 9:10 TALGO train marked for Valencia, which arrives in Cuenca at 11:30 a.m. This train requires reservations, even with a Eurailpass. You would be better off making reservations the day before, if possible. Unlike other European countries, which are rather relaxed about reservation requirements, the Spanish Railroad (RENFE) will not let you on an express train without a reservation, period. There is a café car, if you would like to have breakfast on the train. There are no other practical trains to Cuenca. Please check the schedule first, as the times have a way of changing. For the return journey, the same TALGO train leaves Cuenca at 5:44 p.m., arriving in Madrid at 8 p.m. Reservations for this can be made at the Cuenca station, whose ticket office is closed until 30 minutes before train departure time. If you should miss this train there is a local to Madrid at about 7 p.m."

"For those who are driving, take route N111 from Madrid to Tarancón, then left on N400 to Cuenca. Park in the modern (lower) part of town and pick up the walking tour from there. It is madness to attempt driving in the old (upper) part of town."

"TIME AND WEATHER"

"To appreciate the natural beauty and spectacular setting of Cuenca requires good, clear weather, which is common in Spain. The late spring, early summer, and fall are the best seasons; mid-summer being very hot and winter quite cold. The six hours between the arrival and departure of the TALGO trains is adequate to fully see the town and have a leisurely lunch. The museums are closed on Mondays."

"FOOD AND DRINK"

"There are several restaurants in the old town, the best being the somewhat expensive Mesón Casa Colgadas in the hanging houses. The dishes here are regional and the seting spectacular. My favorite for an inexpensive but excellent meal in nice surroundings is Los Arcos, close to the town hall. The Spaniards never eat lunch before 2 p.m.; if you show up before then you will eat alone. Wine with lunch is common in Spain, the Riojas being an especially good variety available in white (blanco) or red (tinto)."

"THE WALK:"

Click on map to enlarge

"Leaving the train station (1), follow Avenida General Moscardo to Calle Fermin Caballero, which becomes Calle Cervantes. Walk past Plaza del Generalisimo and along Avenida de Jose Antonio to Plaza de C. Sotelo, near which is located the tourist office. So far the walk has been through a rather uninteresting modern town, but the character begins to change when you make a right onto Calle F.L. de Leon, which leads you across the Huecar stream and up into the old town. Climb straight up, then turn right onto Posito. Immediately make a left on Calle de la Esperanza past the Church of El Salvador, then left on Calle Solera past a park and the Church of San Felipe."

"Follow Calle Alfonso VIII to the right and uphill to the Baroque Town Hall(Ayuntamiento) (2), an early 18th-century arched building that opens into the Plaza Mayor. This, the main square of the Old Town, is dominated by the Cathedral (3) (photo, left), built in the late 12th century on the site of a mosque. The style is Norman Gothic with Romanesque features and Renaissance decoration. It is considered to be one of the most interesting cathedrals in Spain and is certainly worth a visit. The Treasury contains a priceless collection of chalices, croziers, a Byzantine diptych and two El Greco paintings. Be sure to see the cathedral before lunch as it closes at 1 pm. and does not reopen until 4:30."

"Leaving the Cathedral, follow the streets on its side to the Archaeological Museum (Museo Arqueológico) (4), located in a 14th-century former parish house. The collection is particularly noted for its Roman coins, mosaics, ceramics, and statuary as well as Celtic and prehistoric pieces. Again, be sure to see it before lunch as it is closed between 1:30 p.m. and 5, also all day on Mondays."

"From here it is only a few steps down to the famous Hanging Houses (5) (top photo), which contain the Museum of Abstract Art and the Mesón Casas Colgadas restaurant. These unbearably romantic buildings, jutting out in space above the cliffs far below, were probably built in the 14th century, reputedly as the summer residence of the king. The museum they now house, the only one of its kind in Spain, is devoted to the works of contemporary Spanish painters and sculptors. Open 11-2 and 4-6, closed Mondays, so make your visit before lunch, which in any case is never served before 2 p.m."

"A passage under these buildings leads sharply downhill to a rickety pedestrian bridge (6) 130 feet above the narrow Huecar stream, from which fine views of the Hanging Houses and surrounding cliffs may be had. Another good viewpoint is downhill on the other side of the entrance to the Hanging Houses to a small park."

"It should now be time for lunch, which can be had either at the Casa Colgadas or around Plaza Mayor."

"That finished, stroll up Calle de San Pedro, making the two short side steps shown on the map, past the 17th-century Church of San Pedro (7) and through the archway of the remains of Alfonso VIII's Castle (8), now a parador."

"The view (photo, above) from here across the Jucar is of wild, staggering cliffs and deep ravines slashed through a desolate, arid landscape very reminiscent of America's Southwest."

"Returning through the archway, bear to the right and downhill along the Ronda del Jucar pathway. This leads to the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de las Augustias (9), a Franciscan monastery located on the very picturesque Plaza de los Descalzos."

"Climb back uphill to the path at the top of the cliff and follow it to the Church of San Miguel (10), now used as a concert hall. Now walk along the edge of the cliff until you come to an alleyway on the left, leading back to Plaza Mayor."

"From the Town Hall (2) take the steps to the right up Calle Santa Maria Ayala through Plaza de Merced to the Clock Tower(Torre de Mangana) (11), once part of a Moorish fortress to which later alterations were made. Follow around past Plaza del Carmen and down steps on the right to Calle General Mola, which leads you downhill.On the right is an archway with spectacular views. Don't go down this too far as you'll have to come back up again."

"In a few steps Calle General Mola becomes a charming pedestrian street to the right. Walk downhill on this to a park at the bottom. Turn left, crossing the Huecar stream, then right to a bridge (12) over the larger Jucar. Cross this for a good view of the rivers and Old Town, then back again to see the waterfalls."

"Past the park, go up the inclined path Calle de Cerillo Santiago, which turns to the left over steps. When you come to an intersection, turn to the right and up more steps past small houses and flower gardens to a little square. Here make a sharp left and down many steps to the main street, Calle Calderon de la Barca. A right here leads back into the new town, from which you can retrace your steps back to the train station (1)."

"If you have not made your reservation for the return to Madrid, do so now. There is a small, colorfully dingy café at the station where you can pass the time waiting for the train."

 

Text and Map Copyright © 1977 Earl Steinbicker

Train service has changed but is still completely practical. Reservations are essential. For current schedules, fares, and reservations visit www.RENFE.es  and click on English.

For tourist information about sights, museum openings, restaurants and cafés, etc. visit www.cuenca.org (in Spanish).

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Vaduz, Liechtenstein

A ONE-DAY TRIP FROM ZÜRICH, SWITZERLAND

I wrote about this Little Adventure as part of my Great Trips/Europe project was back in 1978, and it remains basically sound today. If you want to try it yourself you should first get up-to-date information from the sources at the bottom of this post.

Anyway, here's the original 1978 text:

"A MOUNTAIN WALK NEAR VADUZ"

"INTRODUCTION"

"About the closest we shall ever come to exploring that mythical Kingdom of Ruritania so beloved of operetta composers is a visit to Fürstentum Liechtenstein, a tiny but independent country neatly tucked away in the Alps between Switzerland and Austria. A daytrip spent hiking through its beautiful forests and magnificent mountains is a wonderful experience for any visitor to nearby Zürich who loves wandering around in the great outdoors."

"Yes, gentle traveler, there really is a Liechtenstein and it is a happy land ruled over by a genuinely benevolent Prince. Of the six independent states of Europe, it ranks third in size, being larger than San Marino, Monaco, or Vatican City but much smaller than either Andorra or Luxembourg. The people are prosperous and the taxes low although it is not quite true that the entire country is financed through the sale of postage stamps. Actually, Liechtenstein is primarily an industrial country; in fact the most intensely industrialized country in Europe — something you will never notice as the factories are nearly invisible."

"Its history is an interesting one. Originally part of the Rhaetian culture, it fell to the advancing Romans in 15 BC and was on their main route linking Germany with Italy. When the Allemanians chased the Romans out of the Alps in the third century it took on a Germanic character, being made part of Germany during the reign of Charlemagne's son Pippin. For a long time after that Liechtenstein, then known as the separate domains of Vaduz and Schellenberg, was ruled by local counts. It changed hands many times during the constant struggle between the Germans and Swiss."

"In 1719 it finally became an independent state within the Austrian Empire when it was purchased by a wealthy Viennese prince, Johann Adam von Liechtenstein. Although they owned vast lands all over the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the Liechtenstein family treated their tiny new principality as a pet hobby into which they poured great sums of money. "

"With the dissolution of the Holy Roman Empire in 1806 Liechtenstein became fully sovereign, with links to the German Confederation lasting until 1866. From then until the First World War it had certain ties with the home country of its ruling family, Austria. Barely escaping the final dismemberment of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in 1918, Liechtenstein allied itself with Switzerland by means of a customs and monetary union completed in 1924 and still in force today. The neutrality of the Swiss spared the Liechtensteiners the agony of World War Two, which surely would have engulfed them had they retained links with Austria."

"The present ruler, His Serene Highness, Franz Joseph II, Maria Aloys Karl Johannes Heinrich Michael Georg Ignatius Benediktus Gerhardus Majella, Twelfth Ruling Prince of Liechtenstein, Duke of Jägendorf, Count of Rietberg, Knight of the Golden Fleece, etc. is the world's last reigning Hapsburg. Despite all the royal titles, the Prince is a no-nonsense businessman who has brought a tremendous amount of investment capital in his stable and extremely prosperous land. Technically, he could be deposed at any time by the will of the very democratic people of Liechtenstein, but they are understandably reluctant to do this as in keeping the Monarchy they can enjoy the best of both worlds." [NOTE: This was written in 1978. The present ruling prince is his son, Hans Adam II, who in 2004 transferred executive power to his son Alois].

"Liechtenstein has a population of 24,000 [NOTE: Now 33,000] spread over an area of about 60 square miles. Most of the people live in the valley along the Rhine river surrounding the capital of Vaduz. As a result of its connection with neighboring Switzerland, the unit of money is the Swiss Franc and there are no border formalities for persons coming from that country. Driving through it in a car, this peaceful principality seems but a dot on the map pf Europe; however, on foot it assumes the proportions of a real kingdom, a magical place suspended in time between fairytales and the modern world. The walk described here should be a very enjoyable one indeed."

"TRANSPORTATION"

"From the Zürich Hauptbahnhof (Main Train Station) take the 8:21 AM train to Sargans, arriving there at 9:20 AM [NOTE: Check current schedules online at sbb.ch]. Change immediately to the bus marked Vaduz after first purchasing a roundtrip bus ticket in the Sargans station. This will get you to the bus terminal in Vaduz by 10 AM, at which point you begin your trip."

"Returning, take the 5:20 PM bus to Sargans, which is the last one to that town. Change there to the 5:50 PM train to Zürich. If you miss the last bus to Sargans there is a later (7:25 PM) one to Buchs, which also has frequent train service to Zürich. You could, of course, always take a taxi to Buchs (about 4 miles), from which the last train to Zürich leaves at 8:55 PM."

"As always, these schedules are subject to change and it would be a wise idea to check them beforehand, particularly the return times from Vaduz. The Tourist Information Office in Vaduz is across the main street from the bus terminal."

"By car from Zürich follow the N-3 on the south side of the Lake of Zürich to Sargans, then north on the E-61 a few miles until you come to a bridge crossing the Rhine. Go across this to Balzars in Liechtenstein and follow the local road to Vaduz. You will find ample parking near the bus terminal. The total distance is about 65 miles each way."

"TIME AND WEATHER"

"This trip requires nice, clear, warm weather as most of its charm depends on the vistas across the Alps and the valley far below. It can be taken from late Spring through early Fall. If the weather should turn bad be content to know that one of the world's best art museums is in Vaduz, so your day will not be a loss."

"FOOD AND DRINK"

"At the top of your walk, in the tiny village of Masescha and just in time for lunch, there is a good restaurant with both indoor and outdoor tables overlooking the Rhine Valley. Here, at a moderate price, you can get anything from a snack to a full meal. Go easy on the drinking, though, as the trail beyond this has a few treacherous spots."

"Back in Vaduz, there are several outdoor cafés on the main street that are quite charming. A good reward for your walking effort would be a glass or two of the deceptively light Vaduzer red wine, which resembles a rosé but packs a punch."

"WHAT TO BRING"

"First, a little experience in trail walking by at least one member of your party is recommended. Sturdy shoes are absolutely necessary. Bring along a light jacket or sweater for changing weather conditions. A bottle of water, fruit juice or soft drink would be very welcome. Finally, a camera and a pair of binoculars will greatly enhance your enjoyment of the trip."

"THE WALK"

"We begin by taking a bus over the steepest uphill climb, saving our energies for the more picturesque part of the trip. After checking the return schedules at the Tourist Information Office across the street from the Vaduz Bus Terminal (1), board the 10:40 AM local bus to Triesenberg, a distance of four miles, mostly up. Here your walk begins."

"At the bus stop in Triesenberg (2), an ancient Walser settlement and a popular resort, take the secondary road to the left toward Rotenboden. This follows a ridge overlooking the vast Rhine Valley landscape far below and is a relatively level walk. Once at Rotenboden (3), however, the road climbs to the right. There is virtually no traffic on this road, which crosses beautiful farmland. After a short while you will pass a stream with a waterfall to the left. Beyond this a footpath leads to the left and is marked for Masescha. Take this forest trail uphill until it again rejoins the paved road just before Masescha. In the winter this is a ski trail; the rest of the year it serves as a tractor path for the local farms."

"Arriving at Masescha (4) (photo, left), you will have climbed 1,160 feet since you left the bus at Triesenberg and are 2,560 feet above Vaduz and the Rhine Valley. Relax — from here on it's all downhill. But first have some lunch since the restaurant here is the only chance you will have to eat before ending up in Vaduz three hours later. Masescha is the oldest community of Walser settlers and has a small but interesting 14th-century church near the restaurant."

"Just beyond this, at a bend in the road, the trail takes off to the left. It is marked Vaduz Über Wildschloss (2¼ hours). After passing some farm buildings, the trail becomes a path going through an idyllic forest. Later, it opens again into farmland at the tiny settlement of Profatscheng (5), just beyond which you will come to a fork in the trail. Take the path marked Ruine Wildschloss & Vaduz to the right. This soon becomes a rough pathway in deep woods. There is another marked fork; again follow towards Ruine Wildschloss. The narrow path descends rapidly through the dense forest with occasional clearings providing beautiful views of the surrounding mountains. It then becomes a dirt logging road, which leads to the romantic ruin of an ancient fortress, Wildschloss (6)."

"Climb around the remaining walls and then continue on the dirt road to an intersection. Here take the fork to the left marked SCHLOSS VADUZ. you will pass a primitive animal feeding station on the right. When you come to a paved road turn to the right and walk downhill to Schloss Vaduz (7) (photo, right), the Royal Castle of the reigning prince. Built at least 700 years ago and added to throughout the centuries, it now houses, besides the royal family, the largest private art collection in the world. Unfortunately, it is not open to the public although its treasures are exhibited in the downtown art museum on a rotating basis."

"Beyond the castle a path to the left of the road leads down into the town of Vaduz. Where it joins the main street there are several outdoor cafés at which you can rest and reward yourself with a glass of the famous Vaduzer wine before taking leave of this improbable nation and returning to Zürich."

Copyright © 1978 Earl Steinbicker.

Although some 30 years old, this information remains basically valid today, with certain changes. CHECK FIRST before making the trip. A good source of current information about Liechtenstein is at W: tourismus.li. For current train schedules from Zürich visit W: sbb.ch.

 

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WHY DAYTRIPS?

My style of independent travel goes all the way back to my military service in Japan during the 1950s. Actually, my first memory of a one-day trip from home was even earlier, when my dad took me to the New York World's Fair in 1939 — where I marveled at those wonders to come. There were other early trips, too, usually by trolley car, bus, or steam train as we didn't have a car during the Great Depression or World War II.

A trip to England in 1975 really changed my life. I was over there on an ill-conceived quest to try my hand at movie making when I discovered that writing about travel destinations was much more to my liking than filming them. This got me started on the Great Trips / Europe project of creating brochure-guides for one-day adventures, described elsewhere on this blog.

Out of that experience came the opportunity to write travel guide books with a daytrips theme for a long-established New York publisher, Hastings House.

This is how I make the point in my Daytrips guidebooks:

"The word "Daytrip" may not have made it into dictionaries yet, but for experienced independent travelers it represents the easiest, most natural, and often the least expensive approach to exploring a fresh new destination from a fixed base, such as a major city.

While not the answer to every travel situation, daytrips offer significant advantages over point-to-point touring following a set plan. Here are a dozen good reasons for considering the daytrip approach:

1. Freedom from the constraints of a fixed itinerary. You can go wherever you feel like going whenever the mood strikes you.
2. Freedom from the burden of luggage. Your bags remain in your hotel while you run around with only a guidebook and camera.
3. Freedom from the anxiety of reservation foul-ups. You don't have to worry each day about whether that night's lodging will actually materialize.
4. The flexibility of making last-minute changes to allow for unexpected weather, serendipitous discoveries, changing interests, new-found passions, and so on.
5. The flexibility to take breaks from sightseeing whenever you feel tired or bored, without upsetting a planned itinerary. Why not sleep late in your base city for a change?
6. The opportunity to sample different travel experiences without committing more than a day to them.
7. The opportunity to become a "temporary resident" of your base city. By staying there for a week or so you can get to know it in depth, becoming familiar with the local restaurants, shops, theaters, night life, and other attractions — enjoying them as a native would.
8. The convenience of not having to hunt for a hotel each day, along with the security of knowing that a familiar room is waiting back in your base city.
9. The convenience of not having to pack and unpack your bags each day. Your clothes can hang in a closet where they belong, or even be sent out for cleaning.
10. The convenience (and security!) of having a fixed address in your base city, where friends, relatives, and business associates can reach you in an emergency. It is often difficult to contact anyone who changes hotels daily.
11. The economy of staying at one hotel on a discounted longer-term basis, especially with airline package plans. You can make reservations for your base city without sacrificing any flexibility at all.
12. The economy of getting the most value out of a railpass. Daytripping is ideally suited to rail travel since the best train service operates out of base-city hubs. This is especially true in Europe.

Above all, daytrips ease the transition from tourist to accomplished traveler. Even if this is your first trip abroad, you can probably handle an uncomplicated one-day excursion on your own. The confidence gained will help immensely when you tackle more complex destinations, freeing you from the limitations of guided tours and putting you in complete control of your own trip."

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Helsingør & Helsingborg

A ONE-DAY TRIP FROM COPENHAGEN

One of the last of my brochure-guides from the Great Trips / Europe project describes this do-it-yourself Little Adventure to Helsingør in Denmark and Helsingborg in Sweden. Although dating from 1980, this daytrip can still be done today after checking current information on the website links given at the bottom of this posting.

Here's the original 1980 text:

"Trip 154"

"INTRODUCTION:"

"To be or not to be in Helsingør — that is the question. With apologies to the Bard, the problem is whether its castle was actually the home of his unhappy Prince of Denmark. Its answer is of course not — the Hamlet we know existed only in fiction. The fortress of Helsingør, however, was well known to English sailors in Shakespeare's time who, dropping the H, commonly called it Elsinore. Even if the connection is tenuous, the fact remains that a more perfect locale for the drama is almost unthinkable. One look at its outer bastions is all you need to almost see the beckoning ghost of the king."

"There are other reasons to make this trip as well. The twin towns of Helsingør and Helsingborg have a long history dating back to medieval days and both are remarkably well preserved. Taking the international ferry between them is a pleasant adventure in itself. The walk on the Swedish side reveals many of the subtle ways in which that country's lifestyle differs from the Dane's. From the top of Kärnan tower you will gain, besides an unparalleled panorama of sea and land, an instant appreciation of the strategic value these narrow straits played in history. The wealth of Denmark, which often occupied both sides of the water, was very much dependent on the tolls it collected from merchant ships sailing the Øresund sound between the 15th and 19th centuries. This in turn brought an early prosperity to both towns, endowing them with particularly attractive reminders of the past."

"TRANSPORTATION:"

"Frequent trains depart Copenhagen's Central Station at about 30 minute intervals for the less-than'50-minute ride to Helsignør, making reference to a schedule unnecessary. Return trains operate until about midnight."

"Upon arrival at Helsignør go immediately to the adjoining ferry terminal and board the connecting boat to Helsingborg in Sweden, a ride of about 20 minutes. The voyage is covered by the Eurailpass if you have one, otherwise purchase a ticket. The ferry departs every 15 minutes."

"By car, Helsignør is a fast 28 miles from Copenhagen on the E4 (A3) highway."

"TIME AND WEATHER:"

"The best time of year for this trip is between the beginning of May and the end of September, when the days are longer and the weather generally fair. The castle, however, can be quite crowded during July and August, particularly on weekends. From October through April the castle closes earlier, but you can still see everything if you get off to an early start. All of the major sights are open daily. It is a wise idea to bring along a small umbrella just in case."

"FOOD AND DRINK:"

"The lunch hour will probably fall between the end of the Helsingborg walk and the start of that in Helsingør. Fortunately, there is a fairly good selection of restaurants  near both of these places, with the widest choice being around the Stegade in Helsingør. Be sure to eat before going to Kronborg Castle as you will find little there to appease the appetite."

"FORMALITIES:"

"Bring your passport on this trip since it ventures into Sweden. Change at least a little money into Swedish Kronor, which is worth a bit more than the Danish Kroner. This can be done on the ferry or upon arrival."

"THE WALK — HELSINGBORD:"

Click on map to enlarge

"Upon disembarking at the ferry terminal (Färjestaden) (1) go through customs and walk straight ahead into the handsome Town Hall (Radhus) (2) of 1897. At this point turn right and follow Järnvägsgatan past docks until you get to a park on the left. Turn up Trädgardsgatan and make another left into Södra Storgatan, which leads to St. Mary's Church (Maria Kyrkan) (3). Originally built of sandstone in the Romanesque style during the 13th century, it was heavily reconstructed as a Gothic brick church in the 15th. The interior is noted for its magnificent altarpiece dating to 1450 as well as its late Renaissance pulpit of 1615."

"Continuing straight ahead, the street becomes Norra Storgatan, which has several fascinating old houses. At its end is the noted Jacob Hansens Hus (4) of 1641, the oldest half-timbered house in town. Opposite this is a small square with a fountain in memory of the famous 16th-century Danish astronomer Tycho Brahe, who lived in Helsingbord."

"Turn right up Langvinkelsgatan until you get to a tiny alleyway on the right called Kärngränden. This leads to the Kärnan (5), a 126-foot-high fortified tower erected in the 14th century. Once part of a vast fortress begun in the 11th century, Kärnan is all that remains of Helsingbord's medieval defenses. It is one of the most outstanding buildings from the Middle Ages remaining in Scandinavia. The interior rooms, including a kitchen and a chapel, are quite interesting, while the view from the top across the sound is breathtaking."

"Stroll through Slottshagen Park and make a left onto Bergaliden, which becomes Kopparmöllegatan. Follow this modern street to Hälsovägen where you again turn left and descend along a busy thoroughfare going through Oresund Park. At the bottom you will pass a strikingly contemporary theater and impressive concert hall. A final left there onto Drottninggatan will return you to the Town Hall (2), just a few steps from the ferry terminal (1). Board the boat of the SJ line — the one you came over on — and return to Denmark."

"THE WALK — HELSINGØR:"

"Arriving at the ferry terminal (6), turn right and walk along Havnegade past the shipyards. Make a right onto Kronborgvej. To your left you will see Grønnehave Station (7) from which vintage steam train excursions depart on Sundays in summer."

"Continue along the same road to the entrance of Kronborg Castle (8), The Elsinore of Shakespearean fame. This is the most magnificent Renaissance building in all Scandinavia. On its site King Eric of Pomerania built, around 1425, an earlier fortress to impose his newly established toll on ships passing through the straits. Parts of this are incorporated in the foundations of the present structure. In 1574 construction was begun on the castle we see today, which was completed in 1585. A terrible fire in 1629 swept through most of it, causing considerable damage. Restoration following the original plans was started a few years later. The interior, however, reflected the tastes of that time, as it still does. Two years of occupation by the Swedes starting in 1658 resulted in further changes. Throughout the 18th century the outer bastions were enlarged and in 1785 the castle became a military installation; a role it was to play until 1922. Since then, Kronborg has been renovated to as close an approximation of its original state as possible."

"Upon entering the castle, buy a combination ticket for the State Apartments, Casements, and Maritime Museum. Although sparsely furnished, the Apartments (9) are very interesting. Be sure to see the Great Hall on the third floor, the largest such room in northern Europe. The Chapel in the south wing was spared from the flames of 1629 and preserves its 16th-century appointments. The highlight of the visit is a descent unto the Casements (10), which can be seen only on a guided tour. Groups are taken at frequent intervals through the dark dungeons and underground passageways, stopping to examine the statue of Ogier the Dane (photo, right) who, according to legend, will spring to life should Denmark ever be invaded. Ogier must have been asleep in 1940. When you return to the courtyard, drop in at the Maritime Museum (11) in the north wing. Here you will find fascinating displays relating to Denmark's long history of shipping, trade, and colonization. No tour of the castle is complete without a stroll along the Outer Bastions (12) that the ghost allegedly appeared to Hamlet, a scene very easy to reconstruct in your mind's eye."

"Saying farewell to Kronborg and the drama so long associated with it, return along Kronborgveg to Kongensgade and turn left into St. Annagade. To your left is the Carmelite Monastery (Von Frue Kloster) (13), founded in 1430. Enter the gate and wander around its quietly picturesque precincts. While there, pay a visit to the Church of St. Mary. The famous 17th-century composer Diderik Buxtehude was organist here between 1660 and 1668. He was born a few blocks away in 1637, the son of the organist at St. Olaf's."

"Some very narrow and charming streets follow. Turn left immediately and then right onto Kirkestraede. This brings you to St. Olaf's Cathedral (Sankt Olai Kirke) (14), built in 1521 on the site of a 12th-century church. Follow St. Olaigade to Bjergegade and turn right. In a block you will come to Helsingør's main market square, the Axeltorv. At its far end make a left on Kampergade, then right onto Stjernegade. This entire route is lined with fascinating old buildings and courtyards. Again reaching St. Olaigade, turn right to Fiolgade, taking it to the pedestrians-only Stengade. A left here reveals a very well-preserved street which now serves as a shopping area. All along it are numerous cafés and restaurants at which to sit down and relax after a busy day's exploration. When you are ready to return to Copenhagen, take the narrow Brostraede to an open square called Tolbod Plads, across from which is the Train Station (15)."

Copyright © 1980 Earl Steinbicker.

Although written nearly 30 years ago, this trip can still be made with only minor changes. Note that the original guide of 1980 used the alternative spelling of Hälsingbord for the Swedish town. Here I use the preferred spelling. For up-to-date information check the following websites:

For train schedules: W: dsb.dk

For rail passes: W: scanrail.com

For information about the castle: W: kronborgslot.dk

For tourist information about Denmark: W: visitdenmark.com

For information about Scandinavia: W: goscandinavia.com

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Great Trips #160: Odense, Denmark

Although I wrote this piece some 27 years ago, Odense remains a great daytrip option for anyone visiting Copenhagen. In fact, it is better now since the Great Belt Bridge was opened in 1997 — dramatically cutting the travel time to under an hour and a half. What follows is an exact copy of the original Great Trips / Europe text from 1980; if you take this trip today you should check the new, vastly improved transportation details, as well as costs and opening times. The attractions remain basically the same.

Odense, Denmark

A One-Day Trip From Copenhagen

Text, map, and photos copyright © 1980 Earl Steinbicker

"INTRODUCTION:"

"If being Hans Christian Andersen's birthplace was the only claim to fame that Odense possessed it would still be worth a visit. As it is, however, Denmark's third-largest city has enough other attractions to make for a very adventurous daytrip out of Copenhagen. First, there is the journey itself — getting there is half the fun, involving an hour's boat ride in each direction. Then there is Den Fynske Landsby, a fabulous reconstruction of an 18th-century rural village filled with old mills and picturesque farm houses. No child's fairytale world would be complete without a model railroad, and this Odense has too, in the form of the Danish State Railway Museum. In addition, there is a great cathedral, several good museums, colorful old neighborhoods, and excellent restaurants."

"Odense, whose name derives from that of the Nordic god of war, Odin, dates back to at least the 10th century. In 1086, King Canute of Denmark was murdered here by peasants angry at a tax increase. His canonization in 1101 as St. Canute has long made Odense a religious center. Its prosperity declined sharply following the Swedish War of 1658, and economic recovery did not begin until the next century when King Frederik IV built a castle in the center of town. The opening of a ship canal linking Odense with the sea in 1804 has created an industrial center that grew from a population of barely 6,000 in 1801 to nearly 200,000 today. Despite a bustling metropolitan atmosphere, prosperous Odense has kept much of its past intact, making it a thoroughly delightful city to explore on foot."

"TRANSPORTATION:"

"From Copenhagen's Central Station take either the 7:15, 8:00, or 8:15 AM train to Odense, getting there at 9:51, 10:55, or 10:51 AM respectively. The 7:15 and 8:15 departures do not operate on Sundays or holidays. All of these trains follow the Great Belt route and require advance reservations, even with a railpass. You should take care of this at least a day in advance; at the same time also make a return reservation. Since Odense is on the island of Funen (Fyn) the trains are put aboard a large ferry for the one-hour ride between Korsør and Nyborg. During this time you can go up to the main deck and have a snack or meal at either the cafeteria or dining salon while enjoying the scenic cruise."

"Return trains leave Odense at 5:16, 6:15, 7:22, 8:16, and 8:22 PM, getting to Copenhagen 2½ to 3 hours later. Those marked "L" (for Lyntog) are the fastest. It is important to reconfirm the schedules when you make your reservations at Copenhagen's station as they are subject to change."

"By car the distance is about 100 miles each way, takes almost 3½ hours, and requires advance ferry reservations which can be made at the Copenhagen station. Follow the A-1 (E-66) route, going by way of Roskilde, Ringsted, Halsskov, and Knudshoved, all the way to Odense, parking in the center of town."

"TIME AND WEATHER:"

"This trip is best made between April and September, when the days are long enough to see it all. From August 15 to the end of September the Funen Village closes at 5:30 PM. St. Canute's Cathedral is open every day except that on Sundays visits are limited to 11:30 AM - 12:30 PM. During the winter season most of the attractions have greatly curtailed hours, which should be checked at the tourist office aside of the Copenhagen station before deciding to go. Heavy traffic can be expected along the entire route on weekends in summer. Weather conditions are rather unpredictable, so it is a wise idea to bring along an umbrella. A little rain, should it fall, will not stop you from enjoying this trip."

"FOOD AND DRINK"

"You will find a wide selection of restaurants along the entire walking route, with a particularly charming one opposite the Andersen House (3) and another by the entrance to the Funen Village (8). Prices are moderate at both of these. For a faster or smaller lunch, the Magasin Department Store (11) offers a nice cafeteria. On the way back to Copenhagen you can have an excellent dinner in the main dining salon aboard the ferry if you hurry up to it as soon as the train is put on, getting there before the mob of hungry Danes."

Click on map to enlarge.

"THE WALK:"

"Arriving at the train station (1) in Odense, head directly to the Danish State Railway Museum (DSB Jernbanemuseum) (2), which is part of the station complex. Housed in a former locomotive shed, the collection of historic rolling stock dating back to the 1850s as well as the model train layout, reconstructed signal tower, and other railway paraphernalia, will be fascinating to anyone with the slightest interest in trains. An English-language description of each major display is available along with an illustrated catalog at nominal cost."

"Return to the station proper and exit from its front door. Crossing the main street, enter the park opposite and stroll through it until you come to the 18th-century castle of King Frederik IV, which today houses county offices. Now turn left and then right onto Nørregade. At Gravens make another left and cross the busy T.B. Thriges Gade, entering the pedestrians-only Hans Jensen Straede. You have stepped out of the present and into a heavily restored old part of town, once a poor neighborhood but now a rather chic place to live."

"At the corner of Bangs Boder is located the supposed Birthplace of Hans Christian Andersen (3), the number-one tourist attraction of Odense. In it and an adjoining building you will be treated to a vast collection of memorabilia and scenes of his remarkable life. Affectionately known to the Danes simply as H.C. Andersen, the national hero was born in 1805, the son of a cobbler and a washerwoman. The family later moved to even poorer lodgings on Munkemøllestraede (7), which you can also visit, where the young Andersen remained until he set out to seek his fortune in Copenhagen at the tender age of fourteen."

"Walk down Bangs Boder, through very charming surroundings, and turn left into Sortebrødre Torv, then right on Møtestraede to the Møntergården Museum (4) on Overgade. This grouping of fine old buildings dating from the 16th and 17th centuries today re-creates the interior settings of Odense as it was in the past. Stroll through its rooms and return to Overgade, following this to Paaskestraede. At number 19, on the corner, is the school that H.C. Andersen attended as a child."

"Turn left on Paaskestraede for one block, then right onto Adelgade, which leads to Albani Torv. Just beyond is Flak Haven, an open square in front of the Town Hall (Rådhus) (5). The front façade of this highly unusual structure was built in 1883 as a facsimile of the medieval Palazzo Pubblico in Siena; the rest of the building is an outstanding example of modern Danish architecture erected in 1955. If you have the time be sure to take a look at its sumptuous interior."

"Across the square is Denmark's finest Gothic church and the oldest building in Odense, St. Canute's Cathedral (Sankt Knuds Kirke) (6), built of brick in the 13th century. In its crypt you can view the bones of St. Canute himself in a glass-covered reliquary; the fatal skull fracture caused by a stone-throwing mob of angry farmers in 1086 being easily visible. The cathedral's greatest treasure, however, is the extremely intricate gold altarpiece carved by Claus Berg in 1526."

"Leaving the Cathedral, walk through Klingenberg and down Sct. Knuds Kirkestraede to Munkemøllestraede, onto which you turn left. At number 3-5 is Hans Christian Andersen's Childhood Home (7). The great writer of fairy tales lived in these humble rooms with his impoverished parents between the ages of 2 and 14. Many of the events that shaped his future destiny took place in this tiny abode, now a museum devoted to his formative years. It will only take a few minutes to see, but the experience can be quite touching."

"At this point you can choose whether to walk or take a bus to the next destination, the Funen Village. If you opt for the bus, return to Flak Haven and board the number 2 bus across the street from the Cathedral (6), telling the driver to let you off at Den Fynske Landsby. On the other hand, should you decide to walk the two miles, go down the street to Klosterbakken, turn right and follow it as it becomes Filosofgangen to the boat landing at Munke Mose. From here turn left into the park and follow the map all the way."

"Arriving at the Funen Village (Den Fynske Landsby) (8), one of the largest open-air museums in Denmark, pay the small admission charge and enter into an enchanting world of old-time rural life. An English-language booklet that completely describes each of the twenty-odd buildings is available at nominal cost. Your first destination should be straight ahead to the Water Mill and Wind Mill (cover photo) (9), behind which there is an amphitheater used for concerts, folk dancing, and - you guessed it - presentations of Andersen's stories."

"From here amble down the main road past all sorts of old farm structures, the interiors of which can be visited. At the end is a fascinating Brickworks (10) re-creating an early industry of Funen. All of the buildings in the village are authentic although they have been moved there from other parts of the island in an effort to save for posterity a heritage that was rapidly disappearing."

"Return, via the number 2 bus or on foot, to Flak Haven. Just beyond the large Magasin Department Store is an old commercial area (11) whose beautifully-restored streets are lined with interesting shops, restaurants, and outdoor cafés; the perfect place to end your visit. Walk down Pogestraede, turn right on Klaregade, and right again onto Vestergade. When you are finished looking about, follow Jernbanegade back to the train station for the departure for which you have made reservations."

Again, remember that this was written in 1980 and that some of the practical information has changed in the years since. This is especially true of transportation — now much, much faster if not as much fun.

 

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BEETHOVEN'S VIENNA

Back in 1970 my business partner and I were doing photography for Pan Am in Paris. With a few days off, we decided to fly to Vienna and do an assignment that I had for Opera News Magazine, photographing the various places in the Austrian capital associated with Ludwig van Beethoven. Several years later, in 1979, as part of my Great Trips / Europe project I was able to use photos from this trip on one of my brochure guides. This was the result:

NOTE: This material is nearly 30 years old, so some of it is out of date. But not much. With a few changes, you should be able to easily take the same Little Adventure today. Ask at your hotel, the local tourist office, or consult a good guidebook*.

Beethoven's Vienna

A One-Day Trip in Vienna

Great Trips / Europe #48

Text, map, and B&W photos Copyright © 1979 Earl Steinbicker

INTRODUCTION:

Vienna during the 18th and 19th centuries was the unchallenged world capital of music, a magnet that attracted the talents of many young composers intent on rising to the top of their art. Perhaps the most famous of these émigrés was Ludwig van Beethoven, born 1770 in Bonn, Germany. His musical gifts became apparent at an early age and were exploited by an alcoholic father, a musician in the chapel of the Elector. Having gained the attention of the local nobility, the boy was sent at their expense to Vienna in 1787, where he received lessons from Mozart. Within weeks, however, his mother died and he returned to Bonn, soon to be faced with the task of supporting his now unemployed father and two younger brothers. Rising above his petit bourgeois origins, the young Beethoven became close friends with several members of the aristocracy, and it was through them that, in 1792, he again went to Vienna; there to spend the rest of his life.

Beethoven's position in the history of music can hardly be overestimated. He was the transitional force between formal classicism and romanticism; the first to successfully abandon pretty tunes for richer mining in the emotional depths of the human soul. He was probably also the first musician to earn a living exclusively on a free-lance basis, unconnected with any court. Although he had his share of financial difficulties, Beethoven was never poor. Nor did he lack acclaim; his works being well received throughout most of his career. Vienna, indeed, was very fortunate to claim this pivotal talent as one of its own.

During the thirty-five years preceeding his death in 1827, Beethoven had a great many different addresses in and about Vienna, having moved no fewer than seventy-nine times. This was due more to his tempermental nature than to landlord problems, as is commonly supposed. While many of these dwellings no longer exist, a few have been preserved and four now contain small museums of his life. Our trip will visit those that are most significant in understanding the composer's genius. We begin in the elegant suburb of Baden, traveling mostly by tram through Vienna, and wind up in the wine-producing foothills north of the city, there to perhaps enjoy a glass or two of heurige in Beethoven's own backyard.

Before you start out on this delightful adventure, however, I would like to add one small disclaimer. In Beethoven's time accurate records were not always kept of the comings and goings of each citizen; it is therefore possible that a few of the places may be more legend than fact. The composer himself, perhaps from having moved so often, was rather casual about addresses, so that in two cases, that of the Baden House (4) and the Testament House (10), no hard evidence exists proving that he actually lived there and not in a neighboring building. Please accept both in the spirit of symbolic memorials rather than proven fact and enjoy their contents — which are genuine.

TRANSPORTATION:

You will be using streetcars — trams — for most of this trip, a colorful way to see most of the city at the same time. For the sake of convenience, and to save a few schillings, you should purchase a 24 hour transit pass, called a 24 STUNDEN NETZCARTE, at a local tobacco shop in Vienna. Validate it in the device provided on board the tram (or bus or in the subway station) at the beginning of the first ride, then retain it throughout the day.

The streetcar that goes to and from Baden — the BADNER BAHN — is privately owned and does not accept the pass. You will have to pay a cash fare both ways. If you have a Eurailpass or Austria Ticket, you can save money by taking the regular tram to the South Station (Südbahnhof), there boarding one of the frequent railroad trains to Baden. The insert map of Baden shows the location of both the train station and the terminus of the Badner Bahn.

TIME AND WEATHER:

This trip should be made in warm weather, between late April and late October, when the Beethovengang is at its most charming, the Heurigen are open, and the museum in Baden is operating. Everything is closed on Mondays, and the Baden Museum on Thursdays. Sundays and holidays present limited hours and little tram service. Therefore, make the trip on a Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday or Saturday. As little walking is involved, the day does not have to be particularly nice, so long as you are suitably equipped. Be sure to start out by at least 8:30 AM — the Baden museum closes at 11.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Upon returning from Baden, you will be in the area of the Opera (1) just in time for lunch. Within a few blocks are numerous restaurants of every description. After this, however, the pickings are slim until you get to the end at Heiligenstadt, where there are a few eating places as well as the charming café in the Beethoven House ar no. 2 Pfarrplatz (10), which also serves food.

THE TRIP:

Begin at the streetcar stop of the Badner Bahn on the Ring diagonally opposite the Vienna Opera (1), a central point that is easy to reach. There board the large and wonderfully old fashioned tram to Baden, paying your fare to the conductor. Passing along city streets, through suburbs, and finally open countryside, you will find the 70-minute journey to be both interesting and enjoyable. Upon arrival at the Baden terminus of the line, Josefs Platz (2), follow the insert map a few blocks to the Beethovenhaus (4) at no. 10 Rathausgasse.

If you have elected to take the regular railroad instead, begin your trip at the Südbahnhof station in Vienna, which can be reached from the Opera by the D line tram and from other parts of the city via tram, bus, Schnellbahn, or subway; all covered by the transit pass. There is no point in taking the regular train as opposed to the Badner Bahn unless you have a Eurailpass or Austria Ticket and wish to save a few dollars. Upon arrival at Baden Station (3) follow the insert map to the Beethovenhaus (4).

During the latter years of his life, Beethoven occupied several different houses in Baden, a town he favored for both its aristocratic atmoshere and noted hot springs, believing that exposure to the latter would alleviate his deafness. This faith, of course, was in vain and the great tragedy is that he never heard his own Ninth Symphony — although he sat with the orchestra at its premier. By tradition, the house you now visit is the one in which he wrote that consummate work. With a quiet simplicity characteristic of all his lodgings, this small museum speaks volumes about his life. To the casual observer, such tiny quarters seem out of place in light of his fame and social recognition. It must be realized, however, that Beethoven kept as many as four different apartments at the same time to satisfy his constant restlessness. As you now see it, the room is clean and tidy, quite the opposite of the slovenly conditions in which he always lived.

While in Baden it would be interesting to see some of this elegant resort town, so long favored by royalty. The short walks shown on the insert map will take you to the Casino and Kurpark (5), the main square, and back to either the Badner Bahn terminus (2) or the station (3).

Returning to the Opera (1) in Vienna, either board the D tram on the Ring in the direction of Nussdorf and take it to Schottentor, or walk there following Augustin Strasse and Herrengasse. The house at number 8 Mölkerbastei, known as the Pasqualati House (6), sits atop what remains of the old city walls. Beethoven lived here, on and off, for a total period of eight years, mostly between 1804-08 and 1810-14. The landlord, a Baron von Pasqualati, was an admirer of his and assisted him in legal matters. The apartment on the fourth floor, now a museum, is up a narrow staircase and has an excellent collection of Beethoven memorabilia.

Cross the Ring at the Schottentor underpass and follow Währinger Strasse a few blocks to Schwarzspanier Strasse. At this intersection board the G2 streetcar in the direction of Hohe Warte, in Heiligenstadt. As the tram runs along Döblinger Hauptstrasse keep an eye on the house numbers to the right. Get off at no. 92, just past Pokornygasse. This is the Eroica House (7), in which Beethoven composed much of his Third Symphony during the year 1803. Both the house and the neighborhood, once rural, have undergone great changes. The four rooms in which the composer lived have been recently restored to their original condition and may be visited. A small collection of keepsakes is displayed.

Return to the streetcar stop and continue on by tram in the same direction to Hohe Warte, the end of the line. Get off and walk straight ahead on a footpath into Heiligenstädter Park, where you will find a remarkable monument (8) commemorating Beethoven's stays in that village. Turn left on Grinzinger Strasse and follow it two blocks beyond the church to no. 64, the home (9) in which he composed his Sixth Symphony, the Pastorale, in 1808. It is not open to the public but its exterior is much the same as it was in those days.

Return to the intersection by the church and turn left on Armbrustergasse, then make a right onto Probusgasse. Enter the doorway at no. 6. In the courtyard there are two small museums (10), both up short flights of stairs. It is traditionally assumed that this is the house in which Beethoven wrote his profound Heiligenstadt Testament of 1802, a letter to his two brothers in which all of the grief and despair brought on by ever-increasing deafness is poured out in an emotionally charged document. Be sure to read the English translation.

Continue along Probusgasse to Pfarrplatz, where the house at no. 2 (11) is now a heurigen, serving both new wine and food. The composer lived here in 1817. Although the rooms cannot be visited, you may very well enjoy sitting at one of the tables in the courtyard and trying the local product. But first stroll a few blocks up the quiet Eroicagasse to the Beethovengang (12). Here a footpath to the left follows a tiny brook in a setting of rural tranquility, along which the immortal musician often strolled, gathering the strength that manifests itself in his work. At the end you will find the earliest memorial to his genius, erected in 1863.

Retrace your steps to the Eroicagasse, at which point you can either return to Pfarrplatz for some wine and food, or continue along the stream to Nussdorf (13), the end of the line for the D tram, which goes back to the Opera (1).

AGAIN, please remember that I wrote this nearly 30 years ago, so some changes must be expected. If you intend to make this trip yourself, be sure to check locally for up-to-date information. This is especially true concerning transportation.

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GAUDI'S BARCELONA

Great Trips #24 — A One-Day Walk Exploring The Work Of A Great Architect

Flash back to May 3, 1977. I've just arrived in Barcelona, Spain, to gather new material for my "Great Trips/Europe" program. The overnight train ride from Marseille was uneventful except for the change of track gauge at the Spanish border, and I was soon installed in Room 204 of the Hotel Montecarlo on the Rambla Estudios.

Something (perhaps a little weird) in me had long had a fascination for the strange architecture of Antonio Gaudi, whose best works are scattered around central Barcelona and can be experienced in a single day. This is what I wrote about it way back then:

NOTE: Although written over 30 years ago, most of the material is probably still valid — but if you intend to take this trip yourself you should check with the tourist office first concerning such matters as opening times. The photos are in glorious Black & White because that's what I needed at the time.

"INTRODUCTION:"

"Walk around in Barcelona and inevitably you will come across some very strange buildings, creations out of a surrealist dream combining what could be described as organic form realized in texture and color. These are the works of the great Catalan genius (some would say madman) Antonio Gaudi, the architect who first anticipated Art Nouveau and then surpassed it. Not often do we get a chance to explore the accomplishments of a major talent in a single day, but with Gaudi this is possible. Practically all of his important works are right here in Barcelona and can be seen on foot in the space of a few hours. The tour described will take you to his most outstanding structures, some of which can be visited in detail"

"To understand Gaudi, if that is possible at all, you must first understand that he was a Catalan, which is something apart from being a Spaniard. The people of Catalonia, of which Barcelona is the capital, have their own language, their own culture and history as well as a fierce sense of independence. Gaudi was a politically outspoken separationist who hardly ever ventured beyond Catalonia and, even though he understood it, refused to speak Spanish."

"Born Antonio Gaudi i Cornet on June 25 1852 of humble parentage in the southern Catalonian town of Reus, he worked his way through the Barcelona School of Architecture, getting his degree in 1878. By that time he was already well established as a result of an apprenticeship with several important builders. His showcase designs for the Paris Exposition of 1878 brought him to the attention of Eusebio Güell, a wealthy Catalonian industrialist who became his patron and financier. Through the Güell family he made the right social connections, which landed him choice commissions. In 1884 he began his major work, the Expiatory Temple of the Holy Family (Sagrada Familia), to which he devoted his entire later life and which remains unfinished today."

"From the talented social climber of his early years, Gaudi slowly became a religious zealot, abandoning most of the material wealth that was his for the asking. He was always well known and liked by the people of Barcelona, who regarded him as somewhat of a saint. Never married, he lived with his aged father (his mother, brother and sister having died during his youth) until the latter's death in 1907."

"Gaudi also became in some respects an eccentric. Once a dandy, he was careless in his dress and although he lived in a beautiful house (which today is a museum), he lived there without style. His frugality, vegetarianism and religious devotion set him apart from the society which made his work possible."

"In the end, it was his slovenly appearance which caused his death. On June 7th 1926, while walking to church, he was struck by a trolley car. Unrecognized and taken for an indigent, he was left on the street to die. At last removed to the paupers' ward of a hospital where friends finally found him, Gaudi's life was beyond saving. All Barcelona mourned the loss (his funeral procession was nearly a half-mile long) and later went through bouts of self-incrimination at the social injustice their attitudes had caused. A great talent was forever lost although his spirit lives on in the continuing construction of that supreme achievement, the Sagrada Familia."

"Today, people come to Barcelona from all over the world to experience the work of Antonio Gaudi. His structures transcend style as few buildings do. They incorporate the very spirit of human existence within their undulating and welcoming shapes. What we have to learn from him is not what buildings should necessarily look like, but how they might fit into the real needs of humans everywhere."

"TIME AND WEATHER:"

"Good weather would be very welcome on this mostly outdoor trip. The views from Parque Güell and the towers of the Sagrada Familia across the Mediterranean are spectacular when the air is clear. The Gaudi Museum is open on Sundays and Holidays only, from 12 noon to 2 PM and again from 4 PM to 7 PM. The museum is quite small and a visit there is not really necessary for the understanding of his work if you cannot make the trip on a Sunday."

"FOOD AND DRINK:"

"The best places for lunch are along the Ramblas and the upper part of the Paseo de Gracia. There is very little to choose from in the vicinity of the Sagrada Familia. At the Parque Güell there are two snackbars, one by the entrance and another with outdoor tables on the terrace near the famous benches."

"THE WALK:"

"Your walking tour begins at the foot of the Ramblas, an elegant tree-lined avenue leading from the harbor through the old part of Barcelona to the edge of the modern section. At the Conde del Asalto make a left a few yards to the Güell Palace (1), a townhouse Gaudi designed for his patron, Eusebio Güell, in 1886. The building now houses the Museum of Scenic Art (open weekdays except Mondays, 11 AM to 2 PM and 6 PM to 8 PM; Sundays and holidays from 11 AM to 2 PM only), which affords you the opportunity to explore its interior. Also located here is the office of the Amigos de Gaudi, an international organization devoted to further understanding of Gaudi's work. If you are interested enough, they may be able to help you in obtaining permission to visit some of Gaudi's buildings which are closed to the public, although most of these are located in remote parts of Barcelona and getting to them would require a car. While in the Güell Palace, note in particular the entrance vestibule with its demounting steps for guests arriving by carriage. From here a spiral ramp leads to stables in the basement."

"Now head back to the Ramblas, crossing it and continuing straight ahead to the Plaza Real (2). The four lamp posts in the square are among Gaudi's earliest work, dating from 1878, the year he graduated from architectural school."

"Returning to the Ramblas, turn right and follow it to the Plaza de Catalûna which you walk around until you get to the Paseo de Gracia. Continue along this spacious boulevard to the intersection Calle de Aragon. The second building in from the near left is the Casa Batilo (3), a more mature work which clearly shows Gaudi's style in a very developed stage. By the time he built this (1904), he was already at the height of public recognition and had no trouble getting his own way in æsthetic matters."

"A few blocks further along the Paseo de Gracia will bring you to the Casa Mila (4), located on the far right corner at the intersection of Calle de Provenza. Otherwise known as La Pedrera (the quarry) for its mountainous appearance, this apartment building is Gaudi's best known work aside from his great church. Like the previous Casa Batilo, it is a private building which is not open to casual visitors. You can, however, enter the courtyard and part of the basement in which are located several shops."

"Follow along the Calle de Provenza, crossing the Avenida del Generalisimo Franco, and continue to the Sagrada Familia (5) (Expiatory Temple of the Holy Family), Gaudi's greatest achievement and today virtually the symbol of Barcelona. Ground for this was broken in 1882 under a different architect. After a dispute, the work was turned over to the young Gaudi in 1884, who continued to work on it until his death in 1926. From about 1910 on, Gaudi's entire creative energies were directed to this one project."

"The surprising thing about the church, especially to one who has only seen photos of it, is the state of incompleteness. The towers we know from pictures (photo, right) are only those of the Nativity Transept; the front ones are to be much larger. Actually an active construction site, a visit here us just about the only opportunity we may ever have to witness the building of a vast cathedral. Forgotten for a time during Spain's political troubles during the thirties and heavily damaged by the Civil War in 1936, work on it has been going on at a brisk pace with the idea of completing the other (Passion) transept in time for the Universal Exhibition of 1982. Gaudi's plans are being followed although there is some question as to the legitimacy of doing so as he himself usually ignored his own blueprints and improvised on the spot."

"You can visit the crypt, in which Gaudi is buried, and climb to the top of the two completed towers for a marvelous view. There are scale models of the original plans and a bookstore selling various literature on Gaudi's work. Aside from that, there is the fascination of just watching the craftsmen at their ancient and tedious tasks. The church is open during normal working hours."

"From here it is a long walk, and an uphill one at that, to the next stop. This will take you through an interesting variety of neighborhoods, although if you're not quite up to the hike you can ride there vis subway or taxi. The directions for the subway (Metro) are as follow: Get on at the Sagrada Familia stop next to the church and ride Line V in the direction of Pubilla Casas to the second stop, Diagonal. Here change to Line III, which you ride to the end station, Lesseps. From there follow the map for the short uphill walk to Güell Park. If you are going to walk all the way from the church (3 km, uphill), the map indicates the best route."

"Parque Güell (6) was intended to be a model housing development. Again financed by his patron, Eusebio Güell, it failed to attract buyers and only two houses were ever built, neither designed by Gaudi. His genius lay in the concept and layout of the plots, roadways, pathways and in the brilliantly executed public areas. These include the two buildings at the entrance, the staircase (photo, above) and the covered market area above which is an open-air platform bounded by the famous serpentine bench, originally intended to be a Greek theater. The roadway winds around, clinging to the shape of the hillside while the pedestrian path takes an independent course, occasionally going under the road in a series of marvelous galleries."

"Gaudi's designs were by this time entirely organic. Having observed that there are no straight lines in nature, he provided none in the park. His ideas neither imitated nature nor stylized it; rather, they are completely human shapes which complement the natural world."

"The house in which Gaudi lived from 1906 until his death in 1926 is in the park and is now the Gaudi Museum (7), which is worth a visit if it is open. Since the late twenties Parque Güell has been a public park operated by the City of Barcelona."

"Now follow the map downhill past the Lesseps subway stop to the Casa Vincens (8) on the Calle Carolinas. This was one of his earliest works, begun in 1878. What we see was heavily modified in 1926 following Gaudi's advice. The style, still related in many ways to Spanish Mudejar (hybrid Moslem), anticipated Art Nouveau and provided inspiration for many other architects."

"The Gaudi trip is now completed. There are several other buildings, which are described in the literature available at the Sagrada Familia bookstore, but they are more of interest to dedicated Gaudi fans than to the general traveler. From here you can follow the Calle Mayor de Gracia and Paseo de Gracia downhill to the start of your trip, get on the subway at Fontana (Line III follows down the Ramblas) or take a taxi back to your hotel."

Copyright © 1978 by Earl Steinbicker.

WELL, THERE YOU HAVE IT. It wasn't until five years later when my editor at Hastings House taught me the difference between that and which, further and farther and how to use hyphens, that my grammar improved, at least a little. So please pardon the grammatical errors in the above post. My bad.

 

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INNSBRUCK MOUNTAIN WALK

Great Trips #158 — A One-Day Mountain Hike From Innsbruck

It's July 1979 and I'm in Innsbruck, Austria, gathering material for my "Great Trips / Europe" program. What I discovered was a relatively easy but thoroughly enjoyable 8-mile hike high in the Alps. This is what I wrote about it way back then:

NOTE: Although written 27 years ago, most of the information here is probably valid — still, if you intend to take this Little Adventure yourself you should check with the local tourist office first. I have deleted information regarding taking this daytrip from Munich, which was completely out of date.

UPDATE: I have recently redone this trip for my new guidebook Daytrips Austria. See details at bottom of page.

 

NEW UPDATE, June 2011. Owners of Apple's iPad, iPhone, and iPodTouch can now take all of the latest information along with them for this and other Austrian delights. Details at bottom of page. Now Also for Android devices.

The photos are in glorious Black & White because that's what I needed back then. I tried to add a little sepia to enhance them.

INTRODUCTION:

"Glorious mountains are what the Tirol is all about, and it is to them that you should head for a wonderful odyssey into this remarkable land. This daytrip from Innsbruck is a relatively easy ramble across a fantastic landscape far above the cares of the ordinary world, winding up in the splendid old village of Hall. Along the way you will pass some of the sites of the 1964 and 1976 Winter Olympics, ride a cable car to the top of a mountain, walk for over two hours along a gentle path with spectacular vistas, have lunch at a rustic alpine inn, descend on a chairlift, stroll through unspoiled countryside, cross the Inn River on a wooden covered bridge and, finally, explore one of the most charming little towns that Austria has to offer. If you love the out-of-doors but have been a bit hesitant about just marching off into the Alps by yourself, this pleasant excursion may well be the most memorable highlight of your visit to the Tirol."

TRANSPORTATION:

"From Innsbruck, begin at the main train station (Hauptbahnhof) (1) about 9 a.m. and follow the directions in THE TRIP section below."

[Travel information from Munich was no longer valid and was deleted]

TIME AND WEATHER:

"A clear, warm day between June and mid-October is essential for enjoyment of this trip. Since you will be walking at an altitude of nearly seven thousand feet, you can expect it to be a great deal cooler along the trail than it was in Innsbruck. You may, in fact, encounter a little leftover snow, even in August. This trip may be taken any day of the week, although the cable car can be a bit crowded on Sundays."

FOOD AND DRINK:

"Expect to find generous portions of inexpensive mountain type food at either of the alpine inns (4) and (5) near the end of your first walk. By this I mean meals of the pea soup, sausage, and beer variety; delicious and filling after the hike, but simply served in a rustic atmosphere.."

"At day's end, in the picturesque village of Hall, there are several nice outdoor cafés at which to relax before returning to Innsbruck."

WHAT TO BRING:

"A jacket or sweater is absolutely necessary on this trip, even if it is 90 degrees in the shade in Innsbruck. You won't be sorry if you bring both. A folding umbrella could be helpful should the weather change. Comfortable walking shoes are also required, although mountain boots are not necessary as the trail is well surfaced."

THE TRIP:

"From the front of Innsbruck's main train station (Hauptbahnhof) (1) take the "J" line bus, which departs every half-hour on the half and full hour, to the lower station of the Patscherkofel Cable Car (2) just above the resort village of Igls."

"You will pass various Olympic installations along the way, notably the ice stadium and ski jumps. Although this route may seem short on the map, it is very steep and not really suitable for walking. Once there, purchase a one-way ticket to the top of the mountain and board the large cable car. As it ascends the mountain  keep a lookout on the left for the spectacular Olympic bobsled run. Just beyond this, at Heiligwasser, you disembark and change to another cable car, which takes you to the Patscherkofel Berghotel (3), the starting point of our walk."

"Leaving the terrace of the hotel, at an altitude of 6,435 feet, follow the footpath marked Zirbenweg to the left in the direction of Tulfeinalm and Glungezer Hütte. This section of the trail is identified as Path #32, although the number changes later. The total walk to our first destination, Tulfeinalm (4), will take a little over two hours. Distances on alpine trails are commonly marked in terms of time rather than linear measurement; thus 2½ Std. (Stunde) refers to hours, not kilometers. A good walker will probably do better than the indicated time."

"The relatively level trail continues along the ridge of a high mountain with glorious panoramic vistas up and down the Inn Valley. Cows and goats, their clanging bells filling the air with music, can be seen grazing alongside the path. Presently you will reach a fork at which Path #32 is marked for Meissner Haus. Rather than take this, remain on the Zirbenweg, which bears left and is shown as Path #48. Gradually the trail enters a lovely pine forest still sheltering — in shaded spots — patches of last winter's snow, even in the height of summer."

"All along the walk you will meet other hikers who, if they are Austrian (as most are), will greet you with a friendly Grüss Gott, meaning "good day" in the local dialect. Just smile and try to repeat the phrase back to them."

"Still in the forest, a branch trail leads off to both sides. Avoid the one marked to Glungezer Hütte and stay with the Zirbenweg, following the signs to Tulfeinalm. From here on, the trail no longer has a number, Path #48 having turned down the mountain. Soon it crosses the tiny Lavierenbach brook. The first leg of our trip is almost over now. In only a few hundred yards you will come to the Tulfeinalm (4) where a rustic climber's hut offers hearty food at very reasonable prices. You can either eat here or at another similar place halfway down the mountain."

"On a small mound a few yards from the hut is the upper station of the Glungezer Sesselbahn. Buy a one-way ticket to Tulfes, seat yourself as gracefully as possible on the moving chairlift, and descend to the midway station, Halsmarter (5). The ride is surprisingly enjoyable and not in the least bit scary. Still, if you don't care for chairlifts, there is a dirt road paralleling it all the way down, which can easily be walked. Getting off at Halsmater, you will find another hut with good food and, delightfully, an outdoor café at which to relax and enjoy the sun-filled view."

"Continue on the second stage of the chairlift all the way to Tulfes (6). In the center of that village there is a bus stop (Haltstelle) from which you can get a ride to Hall-in-Tirol. A schedule is posted at the chairlift station. It is, however, far more interesting to walk the few miles. Follow the road downhill and, just before the first big bend to the left, turn right onto a path marked Fussweg nach Hall. This trail will again cross the main road. If you are really worn out by now take the paved road to the right. Otherwise, continue on the path, which goes a bit uphill, then down to the river. "

"Along the way the trail sometimes becomes a dirt road, even paved at points, goes through farms, forests, and crosses a fence. The first tiny settlement is called Gasteig. At the next one, Taschenlehen, be on the lookout for a path with a well-hidden sign marked for Hall. This is just before a short row of houses. It will lead you down under the Autobahn and onto a covered wooden bridge (7) crossing the Inn River."

"Emerging at the far end of this unusual span, you are now at Hall-in-Tirol, sometimes known as Solbad Hall, our final destination and one of the loveliest towns in Austria. Continue straight ahead on the Münzergasse to Burg Hasegg, an old castle from the Middle Ages. Opposite it, on the left, is the Münzerturm (8). Built around 1450, this brick tower has housed the Ducal Mint since 1477 and may be visited. It was here that the early Taler coins, forerunner of our dollars, were struck. In those days Hall was a very wealthy place, its prosperity derived from the salt mines and river navigation. It was also a notorious pleasure center for those wishing to escape the rigid life of Innsbruck."

"A short stroll beyond will take you to Unterer Stadtplatz. From here the Schweighofstiege steps lead to Eugenstrasse, at which you turn right to the Damenstift (9), a ladies' abbey founded in 1567. Walk through the Stiftsplatz and make a left onto Rosengasse. Just a few steps farther and you are in the marvelously picturesque Oberer Stadtplatz (10), a scene right out of a child's fairytale. The 13th-century parish church of St. Nikolaus, which dominates the square, is a visual fantasy. Opposite it is the 16th-century Town Hall (Rathaus), in front of which there is most conveniently placed an outdoor café, the perfect spot at which to end you day's ramblings."

"After exploring some of the narrow alleyways radiating from this gorgeous spot, head down the Langer Graben at the rear of the church and return to Unterer Stadtplatz. From here you can, if you wish, get a bus for the very short trip back to Innsbruck. If you would rather take the train, or if you are returning directly to Munich, follow the map to the train station (Bahnhof) (11), just a few blocks away."

Copyright © 1980 by Earl Steinbicker.

Please remember that this was written 27 years ago, before I was taught how to write by the editors at Hastings House. I apologize for any bad grammar and especially for the excessive use of adjectives. Some of the facts have no doubt changed over the years, so check first if you intend to take this daytrip yourself.

This trip and many others like it have been fully updated and placed in my brand-new guidebook, Daytrips Austria. For some free sample chapters from that and other similar guides, CLICK HERE. 

 

 

 

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Some other mountain adventures in Austria on this blog are: Ascent of the Hafelekar (from Innsbruck), Kitzbühel (also from Innsbruck), Eisriensenwelt (from Salzburg), and Schneeberg (from Vienna).

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Bicycling in Holland

A One-Day Rent-a-Bike Trip from Amsterdam

It's October 1975 and I'm in Amsterdam gathering stuff for my "Great Trips / Europe" project. I was a wee bit younger then but still over 40 and slightly overweight from all that Heineken brew. Anyway, in search of another Little Adventure I rented a bike and took off on a 32-mile ride. This is what I wrote about it way back then:

"Holland is an absolute paradise for cyclists. To begin with, the land is virtually flat, with seldom even the slightest rise. Then there are the roads. On all but the most rural of these cyclists have their own lanes, often separated by a divider strip. There are even special roads just for bikes. And cyclists are respected. Motorists and pedestrians alike are always on the lookout for them. The reason for this is simple enough; in Holland practically everyone bikes, which also helps explain the exceptional health and longevity of the Dutch."

"If you enjoy biking and happen to be visiting Holland, a day spent pedaling through the charming countryside far removed from traffic will be a most enjoyable experience. And it's very easy to arrange. The tour described here, which starts and ends in the very center of Amsterdam, takes you well into the countryside, and is of variable length depending on your speed and physical condition."

"BIKE RENTALS: A current list of bike rental shops in Amsterdam may be obtained from the Tourist Information Office (V.V.V.) at number 5 Rokin, by our starting point, Dam Square. I've had good luck with one such shop only two blocks from here, M.E. Fikkert, located ar number 71 Rokin (phone 247608). Prices at all shops are quite reasonable. Most require a deposit and furnish you with a lock and small repair kit. In almost all cases, rental bikes have no gears, a deficit in my mind, but you'll find that you can get along without them on such level terrain. Whichever place you choose to rent from, it's always a good idea to phone first concerning availability and hours of operation, which varies among different shops. Language is never a problem in Holland, where practically everyone speaks English."

"RULES OF THE ROAD: A round blue sign with a white bicycle on it indicates a compulsory bike lane. You must not mix with auto traffic when you see this. A rectangular black sign with the white letters "Rijwielpad" or "Fietspad" denotes an optional bike lane. Wherever you see the outline of a bike, whether painted on the street or on the lens of a traffic light, or on a direction and distance sign, it pertains to you. Bike lanes often tunnel under highways and intersections, and sometimes wander away from the road, only to return to it. With so many cyclists on the road, you really have nothing to worry about."

"TIME AND WEATHER: You'll need a fine day to enjoy this trip, so save the rainy ones for museuming. Since no advance reservations are needed, why not just go out on the first really nice day of your visit? If you think ahead and get a list of rental shops from the V.V.V. as soon as you get to Amsterdam, you'll be all set to get moving on a moment's notice. The summer season is best, for one thing the Marken-Monnikendam ferry dosen't operate other times, although this is only an optional cut-off, and there is a land route duplicating it. Don't attempt this trip in the dead of winter; some of the roads are very secondary indeed. Try to start out by 9 AM if you can, so you'll have no trouble taking in the entire route and returning before the shop's closing hour, which of course you've checked before leaving."

"FOOD AND DRINK: There are a number of reasonable eating places near the pier in Marken. Check the ferry schedule before eating, as you can also eat at Volendam or Monnikendam after the ferry ride. Whatever you do though, go easy on the excellent Dutch beer or you'll be in no condition to pedal back. A good rest stop on the return lag is Broek-in-Waterland, which has some charming cafés."

"THE TRIP: Leaving Dam Square (1), pedal down the Rokin to the Muntplein (2), a big intersection of streets and canals with its famous 1620 Mint Tower. Take the first left after crossing the canal onto Reguliersbreestraat, which leads to the Rembrandtsplein (3), after which the same street becomes the Amstelstraat. Follow this a few blocks to the Blue Bridge (4), a copy of the Pont Alexander III in Paris and painted green, not blue. This will take you across the Amstel River and onto Waterlooplein to the left. At the square turn onto the Muiderstraat, which shortly crosses a bridge and becomes the Plantage Midden Laan, leading you past the Artis Park (5) on your left. After the park you cross another bridge and make a hard left onto the Sarphati Straat, on which in a few blocks you come to a windmill. Just before this, turn right onto the Zeeburgerstraat, across yet another bridge, and bear left onto Zeeburgerdijk, which parallels a canal. Continue along this a while until you come to a complex intersection on the right, following the bike path onto the Zuiderzee Weg."

"At this point you are out of the city proper. A separate bike lane takes you across a series of large highway bridges over the Rijnkanaal and two inlets from the Ijsselmeer (pronounced Eye-sel-mar). Back on land again, make the first right and again right onto the Durgerdammer Dijk. With the dike rising on your right and land on your left, you have no view of water yet. But soon you'll come to the first village, Durgerdam (6), and a very pretty one it is. Sailboats are moored on the right and quaint houses line the road to the left. Follow the road a few miles to Uitdam. On the way there is a place where you can stop and climb to the top of the dike for a good view of the Ijsselmeer, formerly the Zuiderzee. A little over a mile past Uitdam you come to an intersection. Take the road to the right, which leads you over a narrow causeway to our first destination, Marken (7). Just before the village there is a large parking lot on the left. Pedal through it and over the wooden draw bridge into the village. Except for those belonging to local residents, cars are not allowed here, but bikes are."

"Marken is one of those quaint Dutch fishing villages where traditional costumes are still worn, a tourist trap in fact, but fun anyway. After the drawbridge, go first to the right into the center and see the old church. The village is so small that you can't get lost. Absorbing the atmosphere of this seafaring place, which is being closed in by land reclamation projects, head for the pier area. The body of water between here and the mainland will become a large lake, the Gouwzee. Around the pier are several eating places and shops, a fine place for a lunch break. At this point you can take a ferry to either Volendam ot Monnikendam. If you go to Volendam you add almost two hours to the trip, but this is still practical. It is larger than Marken, and more touristy, with quite a different atmosphere. Check the ferry schedules and make your choice. In either case you will see Monnikendam, which should not be missed."

"Putting your bike on the top deck of the little ferry, sit outside for the half-hour ride to Volendam (8), where the inhabitants make a business of being quaint. You can take all the pictures you care to of them in their colorful costumes without causing offense. If you haven't eaten yet, Volendam is a good place to do so. Cycle around the side streets as well as the pier area, you can hardly get lost."

"From the main street along the pier, head south alongside the water out of town through Katwoude towards Monnikendam. When you get to the E-10 highway, go left onto the bike path on the opposite side and across the bridge, then right down under the highway and into the town of Monnikendam (9). This street will lead you to the pier area, which is where you would arrive had you come here by ferry direct from Marken."

"Unlike the two previous places, Monnikendam is not at all touristy, though it is certainly a lovely spot. This makes it all the more interesting, for it is a real, functioning small Dutch town. There are no sights as such, although the Great Church (Grote Kerk) is worthwhile. Just pedal about, particularly around the piers and the canal leading from it, and soak up the atmosphere. When you've had enough here, follow south from the pier area, keeping the water to your left, until you come to the first right turn after the town. This will lead you to the Zuiderwoude, where you make a right to Broek-in-Waterland. This village lies on the opposite side of the E-10 highway, which you cross."

"Although small, Broek-in-Waterland (10) is permeated in charm. The 15th-century church should be visited, and perhaps one of the nearby cheesemaking places. This is your last chance to fortify yourself before the seven-mile ride back to Amsterdam. Fortunately, there are a few nice cafés in the village."

"Crossing the E-10 highway again, bear right to Zunderdorp, then south on the Zunderdorper Gouw, which becomes the Beemsterstraat. At the Ijdoornlaan, make a right, until you get to the big highway, the E-10, here called the Nieuwe Leewarder Weg. Don't cross it. Instead, make a left following the highway, which is on your right, all the way to the Johan Van Hassel Weg, then a right over the highway and the Noord Hollandsch Kanaal, then immediately down and around onto the Buiksloter Weg, keeping the canal on your left. Stay straight on this road and it will lead you right onto a ferry boat (free!) which goes to Amsterdam Centraal Station (11). When the boat docks after crossing the Het Ij, pedal to the right and make the first left after the station. Continue bearing left to the front of the train station, then across the second bridge onto Danrak, the main drag with many hotels and restaurants on the right, and in a few blocks you will be back at Dam Square (1), where you started."

Quoted material © 1977 by Earl Steinbicker.

The photos were taken by me on that trip, using a very pocketable Rollei 35 camera loaded with Tri-X B&W film.

Remember that this was written in 1976, before I really learned to write, and that a few of the details may have changed after all those years. Check before using it as a guide today!

Whew! I'm tired just reading that, and thankful for all the guidance I've received from various editors in properly composing English in the years since 1976! But not as tired as I was at the end of this bicycle ride back in October 1975. Fortunately, right next to the bike rental place was an outdoor café, where I plopped down and ordered a Heineken. And another, and another. My hotel was just across the street.

 

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