Life's Little Adventures

Lansdale's Wonderful Nature Trail

Not long ago, in 2008, the Borough of Lansdale, Pennsylvania, a suburb of Philadelphia, opened a new park. Now, Lansdale was already awash in parks, but this one is special in that it has a magnificent nature trail meandering through dense woodland. Stony Creek Park, as it is called, is a real treat in such a highly urbanized area. It is, in my opinion, the nearest thing to Heaven that you'll find in Lansdale.

 

Click on map to enlarge. Numbers on the map correspond to numbers in the text.

The Nature Trail:
A good appreciation of this amenity begins with a stroll of about a mile, level all the way. Starting at the parking lot (1) it follows a paved trail parallel to Hancock Street past a large pond (2) with a fountain and a statue (below) of three children fishing. The pond’s perimeter features native vegetation, various little wildlife, and geese. 

As the trail curves to the right, leave it and follow the sidewalk on Hancock Street to the Nature Trail entrance (3). If it’s a hot day you’ll immediately notice welcome relief under a golden canopy of moist leaves. I’ve walked here even in 95º weather and remained comfortable. The dense foliage, at times radiating in arboreal splendor, is especially nice on a sunny day during the Fall Foliage season.

A perfect musical accompaniment to this walk, if you happen to be carrying an audio device, is Forest Murmurs from Wagner's opera Siegfried. Another good choice would be Debussy's Prelude to the Afternoon of a Faun.

You’ll soon pass over an elevated wooden walkway protecting your feet from a short patch of soggy ground, then a wooden bench beside the crushed-stone trail. Turn left at the intersection (4), where there is another bench, and continue over another elevated walkway. The trail meanders around quite a bit through the Woodland area, then turns right to a second intersection (5).

Whoever designed this trail clearly understood the visual impact of the S-curve, a basic concept in both painting and photography. This place is full of them.

A left turn here leads out of the woods and onto a gravel road with an overhead power line. Just across this, mostly buried in the overgrowth, is an abandoned rail line (6) (photo, right) that was once a freight spur to long-since-vanished factories. To the right, just beyond the end of the gravel road, a nearly hidden path leads back into the woods. There are small clearings there where, I imagine, kids can go to hide and play. I know that we would have, way back when we were all of eight years old. This is exactly the kind of place where we built our “forts.”

While again exploring that hidden path today (Sept. 7, 2010) I noticed a large lean-to in the clearing, recently made of fallen branches. Some adventurous kids must have been building their "fort," just as we did 70 years ago! Hooray for them!

The active rail line just ahead now carries freight only, but prior to 1951 was the route of the Liberty Bell Limited, an interurban trolley car that ran from Allentown to Philadelphia.

Return to the intersection (5) and turn left. After curving around quite a bit among mature trees and dense forest, the trail enters its Wetlands stage. At this point it becomes an elevated wooden walkway (photo, above) for quite a distance, wandering around above tiny rivulets that come to life after a heavy rain.

Back on dry land, you’ll notice several small clearings between the tall, old trees. This scene just cries out for a gingerbread house, complete with Hänsel und Gretel and the Wicked Witch of Grimm’s fairy tale and Humperdinck’s opera. 

After the second sharp bend to the right following the wooden walkway a well-defined path leads off to the left and deep into the woods. The earth here is quite eroded from heavy rains, with a great many tree roots exposed. Again, this is a great place for kids to hide.

Turn left at the next intersection (7) and enter the treeless Meadows section of the trail. Here you can walk in the sun, soaking up Vitamin D to strengthen your bones. There’s both a bench and an explanatory sign along the way, but keep an eye out for bees!

Here the Nature Trail ends as you step into the park proper.

Park Facilities:

An overview of the entire park can be enjoyed from the top of a small rise (8), reached by a curving path to the right. After the exhausting 14-foot climb to the top you’ll be happy to see a bench, and for the curious a binocular gadget mounted on a pole.

Click on panoramic photo to make it really, really big

Below this is an enclosed playground (9) for very young kids, with all sorts of safe activities in a naturalistic environment sure to engage children’s vivid imaginations. 

The Pavilion (10) (photo, above) is a nice, shady place for an alfresco lunch, with both sheltered and open picnic benches provided along with two grills. It may be reserved for private affairs by contacting the Parks Department (link below), but most of the time is open to the general public. There is a convenient drinking fountain just outside the structure.

Finally, a most unusual and enlightening feature. The Labyrinth (11) reflects both the spiritual and philosophical aspects of medieval thought. The original design dates to around 400 BC and became widely used during the Middle Ages. Symbolically, it represents a single path to a deity in a clearly defined center reached from only one entrance, often thought of as birth. As well as spiritual salvation, that center goal can also be enlightenment. Meandering along the twists and turns causes a loss of direction and a sense of the outer world, thus quieting the mind. Or so they say.

Here’s a satellite view (above) of the Stony Creek Labyrinth. See if you can follow the route to the rock in its center. It’s tricky. And here's a view from inside the labyrinth (below).

Wildlife:

One day while walking along the Woodland section of the trail I saw a deer — a fawn, really — standing in the path watching me.  As I resumed walking it scampered off into the woods. Encounters like this enhance the experience of being in a natural environment, yet so close to busy urban life. Other wildlife includes rabbits, squirrels, and of course mosquitoes. For the latter it is wise to use a spray deterrent before setting out. Lastly, I once got stung by a bee in the neck, back in the Meadows area next to the sign explaining how bees pollinate the plant life.

A Plea to the Powers-That-Be:

Please leave the Nature Trail as it is. Don’t make it pretty. Remove only the fallen trees that actually cross the trail. Let Mother Nature do Her own thing. And please replace the missing shrubs in the labyrinth. That is all. Thank you.

Practicalities:

Hancock Street is only two lanes wide and is extremely busy in both directions during rush hours. Exiting the park, those making a left turn may have a long wait for a break in traffic. It may be easier to make a right turn, then a left at Church Road.

Pending construction of proper restroom facilities there is a porta-potty outhouse in the parking lot.

Be sure to use bug spray if you’re walking on the Nature Trail during summer. Mosquitoes abound.

There are two free dispensers of plastic dog waste bags, one by the parking lot and the other at the Hancock Street trail entrance.

How the Park Came To Be:

Stony Creek Park is part of the proposed Liberty Bell Trail, a string of parks and trails following the route taken by America’s Liberty Bell in 1777 as it was spirited off to a safe hiding place in Allentown during the Revolutionary War. Only a few of these parks have opened as yet, but more are on the way.  It also closely follows the route of the former Liberty Bell Limited, an interurban trolley car that connected Allentown with Philadelphia from around 1900 until 1951. As a child, I used to ride this back in the 1930s and '40s. Starting from a depot at 8th and Hamilton streets in Allentown, it crossed a long bridge over the Little Lehigh, then followed old route 309 (now 145) across South Mountain and down into Quakertown, Sellersville, Telford, Souderton, Hatfield, Lansdale (where it stopped across the street from the present SEPTA train station), West Point, East Norriton, Norristown, and down into Philadelphia. 

A Living Blog:

My plan is to keep this blog alive with frequent updates and fresh observations as the seasons change and in all kinds of weather — always, of course, with new photos. The latest entries are at the bottom, just before Local Links.So keep coming back by noting this direct link:

 http://lifeslittleadventures.typepad.com/lifes_little_adventures/2010/08/lansdales-wonderful-nature-trail.html

These images are/will be copyrighted and available for use by others only with my permission. Non-commercial use will be free as long as attribution or a link to this blog is made; commercial use may require a fee. Nearly all of the photos are/will be available from me in high definition jpeg files suitable for reproduction.

Here's the lean-to I mentioned above. 

Current Observations:

Thurs., Sept. 9, 2010, 10:15 am. This morning there were "working on the railroad" sounds coming from the freight line west of the park. I followed these around to the abandoned rail line (6) and turned right. Up there a CSX crew was busy servicing their line with a strange device mounted on a truck that ran on both rails and roads. Returning to the intersection (5) I was startled when what I swear was a coyote (or maybe a fox) darted out from the woods, crossed the trail, and dashed into the dense underbrush to the east.

Fri., Sept. 24, 2010, 1:15 pm. Today I revisited the rock in the center of the magical Labyrinth. To some this represents God, to others Wisdom. To most, however, it's just a rock.

Another thought came to me on the trail. Why not occasionally leave the "beaten path" and just go off into the woods to really commune with nature, maybe becoming more one with the Universe. I tried it, and it works. 

Here's what the "Wetlands" part of the trail looked like on this, the day following the Autumnal Equinox:

Here'a a bend in the trail near position 5 on the map, in Autumn:

Click on it to enlarge.

Friday, Oct. 1, 2010, 10:30 a.m. Rain, glorious rain. After months of semi-drought came the downpour. From early yesterday morning until noon today something like 6 to 8 inches fell. Naturally, I had to rush out to see what the "Wetlands" part of the trail looked like. Along the way I had to climb over a fallen branch and wade through a shallow-but-wide puddle at the same spot where two days earlier I had seen a deer crossing the trail. Below is a little bit of it, looking down from the elevated walkway:

Finally, the "Wetlands" is wet! And by the next morning the fallen branches and puddles were gone. Good work, guys!

Tues., Oct 5, 2010, 10:00 a.m. The rain continues, with the "Meadow" area impassable without walking through wide-but-shallow puddles. So I got my feet wet. The elevated walkway through the "Wetlands" area carries walkers above roaring streams of water, a welcome change after a summer of baked, cracked earth. The "Woodlands" is, well, just dripping wet but easy to negotiate. I saw a fawn, leaping like a gazelle across the trail and gracefully bounding off into the woods. Others have seen as many a three young or female deer at a time, but never a buck. Wonder where he hides? 

Thursday, Oct 14, 2010, 3:00 p.m. More and more rain. This time I wandered through with my camera, determined to make it look as wet as it actually was. The photo above is of the "Wetland" sign, the elevated trail, and a flowing rivulet. Yesterday I got a fleeting glimpse of a strange animal as it dashed across the trail. It was solid black, looking like a very large cat, but with a huge, bushy tail. Wonder what that was?

Below is a new picture of the pond, taken the other day:

Sunday, Oct. 24, 2010, 12:30 p.m. Vandalism! The first act of deliberate vandalism and unlawful behavior that I have ever witnessed at Stony Creek occurred today. Four or five guys in their late teens or early 20s jumped out of a Nissan car with New York plates beginning with the letters FEZ, knocked over the PortaPotty in the parking lot, and ran down the Meadows path, shoving people out of the way while screaming loudly in Spanish. They entered the woods making extremely loud noises and frightening walkers. Fearing a dangerous encounter, I left. If this is allowed to continue there will be no point in having this park.

Thurs., Oct. 28, 2010, 2 pm. Fall has finally done its thing, and all the leaves are down. The trail has a certain beauty in this starkness, as I hope I captured in the photo above. This shows the elevated portion in the "Wetlands" portion. Today the park crew was busy removing the fountain in the pond before the pipes freeze. They are also planning to drop the water level in the pond so that when winter comes it will be safe for skaters.

Sun., Nov. 21, 2010, 10 a.m.

All the leaves are down...and the skies are grey...and the woods are small...but they're still okay,

It's amazing how much smaller the park seems without leaves. Now you can clearly see houses, businesses, and even a hotel through the barren branches. Soon it will snow.

Wed., Dec. 8, 2010, 10 a.m.

Bitter cold, much rain, and heavy winds have made the trail impassable. Much of the "Meadows" area was thin ice with about an inch of water under it. Winds have apparently swept water from the pond into the "Woodland" and "Wetland" areas, eroding the trail and leaving a frozen mess. There was also a large fallen tree trunk laying across the trail. I quickly gave up and went home to dry out my feet. The entire trail area is as dreary as dreary can possibly be dreary. But soon it will snow, bringing new visual pleasure. 

Saturday, January 1, 2011. It snowed last Sunday and Monday, and even though the temperature is in the high 40s right now, this much is still left.

 

Expanding This Blog:

Until now, Life's Little Adventures has focused on rather distant places and exotic happenings, covering periods of time from the mid-1930s until the near past. Now I plan to add more local material, some historical and some contemporary, with an emphasis on Eastern Pennsylvania, especially on Montgomery and Bucks counties. Stay tuned. 

Local Links:

Liberty Bell Trail 

Lansdale 

Lansdale Borough (click on Parks & Recreation) 

Labyrinth  (a spiritual rather than philosophical approach to understanding its meaning) 

More coming as I discover them.

 

Text, maps, and photos copyright © 2010, 2011 Earl Steinbicker

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Lubin Studios, Valley Forge Movie History near Lansdale

Doylestown, near Lansdale  A walking tour

New Adventures in Lansdale & Beyond

Interested in photography? Check out my "Assisting Avedon" blog. 

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Walking The High Line to the Chelsea Piers

New York City's latest attraction just opened on June 8, 2009, so naturally I had to give it a try. Imagine an elevated park, 30 feet above street level, winding its way through Lower Manhattan and piercing right through buildings. That's The High Line, and it's quite an accomplishment.

UPDATE: On May 4, 2012 I walked the High Line again, from 14th Street to 23rd Street, on my way to the Avedon photo exhibition at the Gagosian Gallery on West 21st Street, practically under the High Line. It's amazing to see just how much this elevated park has been extended and improved, with many snack vendors along the route! A few new photos are added at the bottom of this entry.

How did this come about? Its history actually goes all the way back to 1849, when the Hudson River Railroad ran a street-level line to the junction of Chambers and Hudson streets. Its locomotives tended to frighten horses, so each train was preceeded by a man on horseback blowing a horn. As the city grew and motor traffic replaced horses, this became more than a nuisance and a very real safety concern. By the late 1920s congestion had become so bad that it was decided to elevate the rail line, then owned by the New York Central Railroad. This work was completed in the mid-1930s and continued operation until 1980. After that, it was abandoned and slowly reverted to nature. Slated for demolition, the High Line was saved by activist citizens and in 2006 restoration by the city began.

A friend and I began our walk at the southern terminus, Gansevoort Street at Washington Street, in the heart of the historic Meatpacking District and next door to the new (2015) Whitney Museum of American Art. We got there from Penn Station via the 8th Avenue subway to 14th Street, then walked three blocks to the southwest. The line south of here had previously been demolished. Here, a stairway (photo, above) leads up to the park with its magnificent views across the Hudson River to Hoboken, New Jersey.

The map above shows both the currently opened section, from Gansevoort Street north to 20th Street, and the section north of that to 30th Street which should open next year. Another section, from 30th Street northwest by the Penn Station Rail Yards is under negotiation with its owners, the CSX railroad.

Leaving Gansevoort Street (photo, above), we climbed the stairway (there are also elevators at 14th and 16th streets) some thirty feet to the linear park. From here a paved pedestrian walkway leads north to the end, bordered on the sides by remnants of the abandoned rail line. Between the tracks grow flowers, plants, and even trees (photo, right). Volunteer gardeners were busy at work making it even more attractive.

 Oddly, the High Line passes through several buildings along the way. Most of these were once industrial structures and warehouses, with rail sidings leading in at the third-floor level. Some of them have recently been converted into highly desirable loft apartments, and others into art galleries.

At 15th Street the trail cuts through the old Chelsea Market Building, formerly a Nabisco factory. Beyond this is the Northern Spur, where a side track went into a meat warehouse. It is now a horticultural preserve.

The High Line crosses Tenth Avenue around 17th Street, and a section of the structure has been lowered in steps to form a viewing platform looking out across the midtown skyline. A glass wall prevents those carried away by the view from falling off and tumbling down to the streets below.

Plans are afoot to build a grand staircase at 18th Street, leading down to a public plaza. Above this, a cantilevered snackbar will hover above the site. 

Strolling through the Chelsea Grasslands leads to the present northern terminus at 20th Street. Beyond this, the High Line is still under development and should open in 2010. Another friend, reached by cell phone, joined us nearby.

   From here it is only a short walk across Eleventh Avenue to the famous Chelsea Piers. Built in the early 1900s to accomodate ocean liners, the piers have a colorful history. This was the destination in 1912 of the Titanic, which of course sank on its maiden voyage, and it was here that its 706 survivors arrived aboard the RMS Carpathia. Three years later the RMS Lusitania (photo, right) sailed from these piers on its fateful journey to England. It was torpedoed by the German Navy off the coast of Ireland with great loss of life, an event that hastened America's entry into World War I.

In the mid-1930s passenger ships were moved north to new, larger piers around 50th Street, and the Chelsea Piers reduced to cargo handling as well as World War II troop ships. Nearly demolished in the early 1990s, they were saved by the abandonment of the Westway Project, and now form a major sports and entertainment complex.

We ended our day of exploring the High Line and Chelsea Piers by visiting a few of the sports facilities spread over 28 acres above the Hudson River. Among the many activities available are gymnastics, soccer, basketball, rock climbing, a golf driving range, health club, and more. But after shooting a few hoops my companions agreed with me that a visit to the Chelsea Brewing Company at the southern end of the complex was in order. There we had sandwiches and a variety of craft beers brewed on the spot before returning to Penn Station for the train ride home.

 

NEW PHOTOS, May 4 2012:

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Mountains

Several of the postings on this blog are are about glorious mountains:

Appalachian Trail, Pennsylvania. A 1950 adventure with three friends from school, in which we covered some 50 miles of woodland across Pennsylvania in nearly a week.

Berchtesgaden, Germany. The castle, the salt mines, Germany's most beautiful lake, snow-capped Alps, and the famous Eagle's Nest — all together in one easy daytrip from either Munich or Salzburg.

Eisriesenwelt, Austria. The world's largest perpetually-frozen ice cave can be explored on this easy daytrip from Salzburg.

Fuji, Japan. Our overnight experiences in climbing Japan's Mount Fuji back in 1959.

Füssen and Neuschwanstein, Germany. THE dream castle to end all castles was built high in the Bavarian Alps by crazy King Ludwig II in the 19th century. A daytrip from Munich.

Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany. Explore an alpine village at the foot of Germany's highest mountain, and wander through a whitewater ravine in this daytrip from Munich.

Innsbruck - Ascent of the Hafelekar, Austria. An easy but exciting mountain adventure in the Alps. 

Innsbruck Mountain Walk, Austria. An east hike in the Austrian Alps, now included in Daytrips Austria.

Kitzbühel, Austria. One of the world's leading winter resorts is equally attractive in warmer seasons. An easy daytrip from Innsbruck.

Mittenwald, Germany. One of Bavaria's most enchanting towns is easily seen on a daytrip from either Munich or Innsbruck. FRom watching violins being made to ascending a spectacular mountain to wandering through a whitewater gorge, there's planty to see and do.

New York's Adirondacks. Camping at Mount Marcy, then in the Catskills.

Nikko, Japan. We climb to the sacred shrines and then take in the natural splendors of Lake Chuzenji.

Rocky Mountain High, Colorado. A 2007 journey through Colorado's Rocky Mountains.

Schneeberg, Austria. Ride up Vienna's "Snow Mountain" on an ancient steam train, then hike to the summit for a view.

Vaduz, Liechtenstein. This easy daytrip takes you from Zurich to an adventurous mountain hike above the capital of a tiny nation.

Var Valley, France. Ride a narrow-gauge train from Nice on the Riviera to the lower Alps, stopping at a mountain resort and a walled town with a castle.

Wendelstein, Germany. This roundtrip by rail or car from Munich includes an alpine village, a cable car up a mountain, a cave, some nice hikes, and a cog-wheel train down the mountain.

Zugspitze, Germany. One of the classic daytrips in Germany is an excursion to the top of Germany's highest peak.

 

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Ascent of the Hafelekar, Austria

My recent guidebook Daytrips Austria has several one-day mountain adventures that are easy to take and require no mountaineering skills. In fact, anyone in good health can do them, but they're still a lot of fun and take you high into the Alps.

 

 

Trip 23

Innsbruck

Ascent of the Hafelekar

Here’s a trip that can be as comfortable as you desire – or as challenging. The Hafelekar mountain peak towers some 7,658 feet (2,334 meters) above Innsbruck and is easily reached by cable car for a staggering view across the Alps. Along the way is the highest zoo in Europe. Several rest stops feature places to eat and drink while basking in the glorious sights. Once at the top, you might take either a short walk along a civilized trail, or test your skills at real hiking for a short distance. Or just sit there gazing at the mountains.

The rugged Hafelekar is one of the highest peaks of the Nordkette (North Chain), a part of the Karwendel Range of the Alps. It has an overwhelming presence for the people of Innsbruck, dominating every northward view from downtown streets. These are true Alpine mountains — jagged, rugged peaks often covered with snow – that will reward even the most novice hiker with a real Alpine experience.

 

 

GETTING THERE:

This trip begins inside Innsbruck, with a choice of three transportation modes. The newest is to take the Hungerburgbahn from the Congress Innsbruck (Convention Center)(1) on Rennweg just north of the Hofburg. This modern funicular railway runs underground to the Löwenhaus, then crosses a spectacular bridge, and travels underground to the first stop, the Alpenzoo. It then continues to the Hungerburg stop, where you transfer to a cable car. The elegantly modern system, first opened in late 2007, was designed by the noted architect Zaha Hadid.

Another option is to take Route 2 of the Sightseer Bus from Maria Theresien Strasse to the Alpenzoo, then continue by Hungerburgbahn to Hungerburg and the cable car, or get there via a footpath.

The third option is to take City Bus W from Marktplatz to the Alpenzoo, then continue as above.

You will return via the same route.

PRACTICALITIES:

Bring along a jacket and/or sweater, even in summer, as it can be quite cool (or even snowing) at the summit. Those planning to take the short walk will need good walking shoes; for the longer trek real hiking boots are more appropriate, along with a trail map. Of course, if you’re not going farther than the upper cable car station, ordinary shoes and attire will suffice.

If you are taking the long hike, be sure to check the weather forecast first, keep an eye on the clouds, have enough clothing to keep you warm in case of a sudden storm, and be prepared to turn back quickly in that event. Experienced hikers have died on this trail due to sudden weather changes.

For further information contact the Innsbruck Tourist Office, T: (0512) 598-60, W: innsbruck-tourismus.com. Some other useful websites are: W: sightseer.at, W: alpenzoo.at, and W: nordpark.com/bahn.

 FOOD AND DRINK:

Restaurant Seegrube (at the Seegrube cable car station) Both full service and cafeteria dining, indoors with a view or out on the sun terrace. T: (0512) 293-375. €, €€, and €€€

During the summer season the Hafelekar Mountain Lodge at the upper cable car station also operates a restaurant, with casual indoor/outdoor dining.

 

 

 

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Begin your tour by taking any one of the three transit options to the Alpenzoo (2), or drive there. The brand-new Hungerburgbahn Funicular starts at the Congress (Convention Center)(1) on Rennweg, just above the Hofburg in central Innsbruck. Runs weekdays 7 a.m. to 7:30 p.m., weekends and holidays 8 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. Roundtrip €€, combo ticket including Alpenzoo and cable cars to Hafelekar available. 

In just a few minutes you will reach the stop for the:

ALPENZOO (2), T: (0512) 292-323, W: alpenzoo.at. Open April-Oct., daily 9-6; Nov.-March, daily 9-5. €€. Café.

 Europe’s highest zoo features wildlife of the Alps, with over 2,000 animals and birds representing some 150 different species. Among them are bears, ibexes, moose, rodents, reptiles, amphibians, and vultures. There is also a cold-water aquarium teeming with fish native to the region.

Return to the funicular and continue your uphill journey to Hungerburg. At the upper station you cross the street to the lower station (Talstation) of the Nordkettenbahn cable car (3), first built in 1927 but recently modernized. This will lift you in minutes to an elevation of 6,250 feet (1,905 meters) at Seegrube (4), from which you will get excellent panoramic views of Innsbruck and its valley. There is a good restaurant and cafeteria here, with both indoor and outdoor dining. Several hiking trails lead off, offering the possibilities of a short walk.

Now for the real climb. Board the steep cable car for Hafelekar (5), whose upper station (Bergstation) is at the dizzying height of 7,400 feet (2,256 meters), with a nearly vertical fall. The peak (Hafelekarspitze) is just 256 feet (78 meters) above this. Again, there is a restaurant and snack bar, this one open in the summer season only. Visitors can also inspect (from the outside) the research station operated by Victor Franz Hess (1883-1964), who won the Nobel Prize for Physics in 1936 for his discovery of cosmic radiation. You can then opt to just enjoy the stupendous *view, or you might go for a hike or shorter walk.

A short walk leads from the cable car station towards the east along the Goetheweg path (marked as #219), soon turning left up the east ridge to the Hafelekarspitze (6), then back down to the cable car. This should take about 45 minutes to complete.

A longer hike begins on the same Goetheweg path (marked as #219), but instead of turning left for the peak, contine on in the direction of Pfeishütte (7). You probably won’t get as far as that Alpine hut before turning back, but you will enjoy incomparable views to the south extending as far as the Europabrücke, Europe’s highest highway bridge, and beyond into Italy. Watch your time — it’s a 4½-hour roundtrip trek if you go all the way to the hut. Long before then, the trail passes to the north side of the ridge, with an entirely different landscape looking north into Germany.

Return to the cable car station to begin the trip back into Innsbruck. Mountain goats and experienced climbers might want to hike back as far as Hungerburg (3) by following the steep Arzler Reisse trail down a rubble-strewn gully.

 Text and map Copyright © 2008 Earl Steinbicker

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A Really Great Way To Travel

A Really Great Way to Travel

Quite by accident back in 1975 I stumbled upon a fascinating and endlessly enjoyable travel guide entitled Turn Left at the Pub — and it changed my life. At that time I was bored and looking for something new to do, something to do with travel, and possibly something to do with making travel movies for cable TV. I had already made some films of our adventures in Japan, Australia, Tahiti, and all over Europe while on photo assignments for Pan Am, and had done a particularly nice one while sailing the Greek Islands with some friends. These were mostly shot with a Nikon Super 8 camera, and some with a Kodak Ektasound camera.

In search of inspiration I visited a travel bookstore on New York’s Madison Avenue around 35th Street, looking for unusual guides to offbeat places. One practically screamed out to me. This was Turn Left At The Pub: 22 Walking Tours Through The British Countryside by George W. Oakes, first published in 1968 and revised in 1974 (and revised again in 1998).  It described, in step-by-step detail, a series of 24 one-day walking tours in England, mostly to unusual destinations not covered in conventional guides. My cup of tea exactly, as I love to walk and love poking around in strange places.

So I equipped myself with a used pro-level Beaulieu Super 8 camera with a huge zoom lens, and a high-quality Sony tape recorder for “wild” sound capture. Then I took off for a month’s stay in Britain, installing myself in a cheap hotel in London’s Kensington district. 

My first destination was to Sevenoaks, easily reached by rail from London’s Charing Cross Station in some 40 minutes. From there it was a stroll of about a mile to one of Britain’s grandest stately homes, the 15th-century Knole House (old Illustration, left). Built on the site of an earlier mansion, it is called a "calendar house" owing to its having 365 rooms, 52 staircases, 14 entrances, and 7 courtyards. Originally home to the Archbishop of Canterbury, it was seized by King Henry VIII in 1538. Twenty-eight years later, Queen Elizabeth I gave it to her cousin Thomas Sackville, whose descendants have lived there ever since. One of these, the writer Vita Sackville-West, wrote the definitive guide to the place in 1922. Her friend Virginia Woolf answered with Orlando, an acclaimed 1928 novel based on the house and its family. Inside the house are treasures of 17th-century royal furniture, along with paintings by Van Dyck, Gainsborough, and Reynolds, plus magnificent copies of the Raphael Cartoons.

However, the splendid interior tour was nothing compared to the joyful country walk that followed. 

It was nearly six miles to the next destination, but what bliss! First, I passed a cricket pitch, then stables, slaughterhouses, breweries, workshops, and other estate outbuildings. A narrow road continued uphill, affording a wonderful view of Knole House before crossing a golf course. Herds of deer grazed here, and there was a pond and a farm house. Chestnut Walk led through woods to Bitchet Green, then a public footpath went through an orchard and followed a small stream past oast houses.

I now arrived at Ightham Mote (photo, below), a 14th-century fortified manor house so well preserved that to step inside is to find yourself back in the Middlle Ages. It is surrounded by a defensive moat and iron gates. At the time of my visit the place was still considered to be haunted by the ghost of a woman whose skeleton was — according to the story — found bricked up inside a wall of the banqueting hall. This has since been pretty well disproved, but the whole house still has a ghostly feel about it. Outside, white swans presented by the Queen glide across ponds fed by a waterfall next to woods.

A walk of under a mile took me to the hamlet of Ivy Hatch, where I relaxed over a pint or so at a colorful pub called The Plough. After that, a short walk ended at a main road at which I got a bus ride back to Sevenoaks, then a train to London. All in all, a glorious day of exploration and healthy excercise.

The movie project never did work out as I found it to be much more than I could handle, but the experience itself started me on a new career as a travel writer, really changing my life in profound ways.

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Eisriesenwelt, Austria

Here's another sample chapter from my new guidebook, Daytrips Austria. This one-day adventure from Salzburg will be especially welcome on a hot summer day as it takes you deeply underground into a fantasy world of eternally frozen ice.

Trip 17

 

Eisriesenwelt

 

A Daytrip from Salzburg

 The Eisriesenwelt cave system, whose name literally means "World of the Ice Giants," is one of the strangest sights in Austria. This is actually the largest complex of caves in Europe, with over 25 miles of interconnecting caverns explored so far. Perched some 5,460 feet above sea level and 3,280 feet above the valley floor, it is a short 28 miles south of Salzburg. Nearly the first mile of the caves is perpetually frozen into a wonderland of fantastic ice formations, some of which may date from the last Ice Age. Eisriesenwelt is indeed regarded as the greatest ice cave in the world, whose proximity to Salzburg has long made it a popular — if chilly — daytrip destination.

The ice is formed as a result of unique ventilation conditions in the cave. During the winter months cold winds cause the water trickling down from the plateau above to freeze. In summer, the flow of air is reversed, so that the warm air does not enter, hence the caves remain eternally frozen. Even on hot summer days, the inside temperature is always below freezing.

An additional attraction is Burg Hohenwerfen, a dramatically-situated fortress with falconry shows and medieval dungeons.

 GETTING THERE:

Trains of all classes depart Salzburg's main station (Hauptbahnhof) fairly frequently in the morning for the under-one-hour ride to Werfen. Return service operates until mid-evening.

By Car, take the A-10 Tauern Autobahn to the Werfen exit, then highway B-159 into Werfen. It is possible to drive up to the parking lot near the lower station of the cable car, thus avoiding a taxi or bus ride.

 

PRACTICALITIES:

The cave is closed between late October and the end of April, while the fortress has a slightly longer season. Be sure to bring warm clothes, sturdy shoes, and possibly gloves as you will be spending over an hour at freezing temperatures. Photography or videotaping is forbidden as it disrupts the tour presentation. This trip should not be taken by claustrophobic or physically handicapped persons and is not suitable for very young children. An early start is recommended. A few miles of outdoor walking are involved, so if it looks like rain bring an umbrella. You will be supplied with a lantern to find your way underground.

For further information, contact the Werfen Tourist Office at Markt 24 in Werfen, T: (06468) 5388, W: werfen.at or eisriesenwelt.at.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Obauer (Markt 46 in Werfen) One of the very finest restaurants in all of Austria, with creative Austrian cuisine. Reservations essential, T: (06468) 5212-12), W: Obauer.com. €€€+

Gasthaus Zaismann (on the mountain road to the cable car, about 1 km from Werfen) Traditional Austrian country food, convenient for those driving up. T: (06468) 7251, W: zaismann.at €€

Dr.0edl-Haus (by the upper cable car station) A rustic Alpine chalet with indoor and outdoor tables, a great view, and traditional Austrian fare. Open same times as the cave. T: (06468) 5248-12, W: oedlhaus.at. €

SUGGESTED TOUR:

 Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

From the Werfen Train Station (1) it is only a short walk across the river to Werfen's main square(Markt) (2), where you can board a minibus that takes you to a parking lot halfway up the mountain. Be sure to arrange for a return ride at the same time. It is also possible to board this at the train station instead, but there are fewer departures. Those with cars can drive to the parking lot, bearing in mind that the road is quite steep and somewhat difficult to negotiate. You could also hike the distance, about four miles with a 1,200-foot climb if you're up to it, but in that case plan on taking a late train back.

However you get to the parking lot (3) you now walk for 15 minutes along a beauitiful path to the lower station(Seilbahn Talstation) (4) of the cable car, where refreshments are available. Purchase a combination ticket (Kombinierter Tarif) that includes the cave tour, and board the cable car for a very steep 5-minute ascent to the upper station. 

Adjacent to the upper station(Bergstation) is the Dr.-Oedl-Haus (5), a rustic Alpine retreat with good, inexpensive meals and cheap overnight accommodations. This is where you are assembled into groups for the cave tour.

 

*EISRIESENWELT ICE CAVES (6), T: (06468) 5291, W: eisriesenwelt.atOpen May 1 until late Oct., tours daily from 9:30-3:30. Allow 3-4 hours for total trip. Combination ticket for cable car and cave tour: Adults €€€, children to 14 years €€.

The groups leave more or less hourly for the 15-minute uphill walk to the cave entrance (Höhleneingang). There they are met by a guide and outfitted with lanterns as there is no lighting in the caves other than an occasional magnesium flare used by the guide to highlight certain features. When the door is opened, there is a tremendous gush of cold air as you fight your way into the large underground hall; then a sudden stillness.

Steps lead from the entrance hall to the enormous Posselt-Halle, named after the person who first entered it in 1879. You then climb up the Grosser Eiswall (big ice wall) that runs across the entire width of the cave. The first man to overcome this barrier and thus be able to explore the miles of caves beyond was Alexander von Mork, who accomplished this feat in 1913 along with two companions.

Beyond the ice wall a long, narrow corridor leads into the magnificent Hymir Halle with its fantastic ice formations such as the Schloss Hymir and the Ice Organ. You are then led through the Thrym Halle and up a drafty air passage to the shimmering frozen curtains of the Ice Gateway, followed by the *Alexander von Mork Cathedral, the largest chamber in the cave. A white marble urn in a recess there contains the ashes of von Mork, who perished in World War I.

The Ice Palace lies beyond this, a half-mile from the entrance and as far into the caves as the tour goes before beginning the downhill journey to the entrance. Spelunkers might be interested in arranging for a private tour extending much farther into the subterranean labyrinth.

Emerge into the daylight and stroll back to the Dr.-Oedl-Haus (5), where you can stop for a much-deserved drink, snack, or meal. From here retrace the route back to Werfen (2), where you might want to hike or drive uphill for about a mile (or take the new elevator from the village) to another worthwhile attraction:

BURG HOHENWERFEN (7), T: (06468) 7603-4, W: salzburg-burgen.at. Open April, Tues.-Sun. 9:30-4:30; May-June and Sept., daily 9-5; July-Aug., daily 9-6; Oct.-Nov., daily 9:30-4:30. Falconry shows at 11 and 3. €€. Elevator to castle €.

First built in 1077 to guard the valley approach to Salzburg, this mighty fortress was destroyed in a peasant uprising in 1525 and reconstrucyed to its present form later in the 16th century. Several falconry shows are presented daily against a backdrop of towering mountains. The tour includes visits to a special exhibition, a falconry museum, a chapel, an arsenal, and — of course — the dungeons.

Text and map copyright © 2008 Earl Steinbicker

 Two more nearby underground adventures in Austria are at Hallein and Hallstatt.

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Vaduz, Liechtenstein

A ONE-DAY TRIP FROM ZÜRICH, SWITZERLAND

I wrote about this Little Adventure as part of my Great Trips/Europe project was back in 1978, and it remains basically sound today. If you want to try it yourself you should first get up-to-date information from the sources at the bottom of this post.

Anyway, here's the original 1978 text:

"A MOUNTAIN WALK NEAR VADUZ"

"INTRODUCTION"

"About the closest we shall ever come to exploring that mythical Kingdom of Ruritania so beloved of operetta composers is a visit to Fürstentum Liechtenstein, a tiny but independent country neatly tucked away in the Alps between Switzerland and Austria. A daytrip spent hiking through its beautiful forests and magnificent mountains is a wonderful experience for any visitor to nearby Zürich who loves wandering around in the great outdoors."

"Yes, gentle traveler, there really is a Liechtenstein and it is a happy land ruled over by a genuinely benevolent Prince. Of the six independent states of Europe, it ranks third in size, being larger than San Marino, Monaco, or Vatican City but much smaller than either Andorra or Luxembourg. The people are prosperous and the taxes low although it is not quite true that the entire country is financed through the sale of postage stamps. Actually, Liechtenstein is primarily an industrial country; in fact the most intensely industrialized country in Europe — something you will never notice as the factories are nearly invisible."

"Its history is an interesting one. Originally part of the Rhaetian culture, it fell to the advancing Romans in 15 BC and was on their main route linking Germany with Italy. When the Allemanians chased the Romans out of the Alps in the third century it took on a Germanic character, being made part of Germany during the reign of Charlemagne's son Pippin. For a long time after that Liechtenstein, then known as the separate domains of Vaduz and Schellenberg, was ruled by local counts. It changed hands many times during the constant struggle between the Germans and Swiss."

"In 1719 it finally became an independent state within the Austrian Empire when it was purchased by a wealthy Viennese prince, Johann Adam von Liechtenstein. Although they owned vast lands all over the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the Liechtenstein family treated their tiny new principality as a pet hobby into which they poured great sums of money. "

"With the dissolution of the Holy Roman Empire in 1806 Liechtenstein became fully sovereign, with links to the German Confederation lasting until 1866. From then until the First World War it had certain ties with the home country of its ruling family, Austria. Barely escaping the final dismemberment of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in 1918, Liechtenstein allied itself with Switzerland by means of a customs and monetary union completed in 1924 and still in force today. The neutrality of the Swiss spared the Liechtensteiners the agony of World War Two, which surely would have engulfed them had they retained links with Austria."

"The present ruler, His Serene Highness, Franz Joseph II, Maria Aloys Karl Johannes Heinrich Michael Georg Ignatius Benediktus Gerhardus Majella, Twelfth Ruling Prince of Liechtenstein, Duke of Jägendorf, Count of Rietberg, Knight of the Golden Fleece, etc. is the world's last reigning Hapsburg. Despite all the royal titles, the Prince is a no-nonsense businessman who has brought a tremendous amount of investment capital in his stable and extremely prosperous land. Technically, he could be deposed at any time by the will of the very democratic people of Liechtenstein, but they are understandably reluctant to do this as in keeping the Monarchy they can enjoy the best of both worlds." [NOTE: This was written in 1978. The present ruling prince is his son, Hans Adam II, who in 2004 transferred executive power to his son Alois].

"Liechtenstein has a population of 24,000 [NOTE: Now 33,000] spread over an area of about 60 square miles. Most of the people live in the valley along the Rhine river surrounding the capital of Vaduz. As a result of its connection with neighboring Switzerland, the unit of money is the Swiss Franc and there are no border formalities for persons coming from that country. Driving through it in a car, this peaceful principality seems but a dot on the map pf Europe; however, on foot it assumes the proportions of a real kingdom, a magical place suspended in time between fairytales and the modern world. The walk described here should be a very enjoyable one indeed."

"TRANSPORTATION"

"From the Zürich Hauptbahnhof (Main Train Station) take the 8:21 AM train to Sargans, arriving there at 9:20 AM [NOTE: Check current schedules online at sbb.ch]. Change immediately to the bus marked Vaduz after first purchasing a roundtrip bus ticket in the Sargans station. This will get you to the bus terminal in Vaduz by 10 AM, at which point you begin your trip."

"Returning, take the 5:20 PM bus to Sargans, which is the last one to that town. Change there to the 5:50 PM train to Zürich. If you miss the last bus to Sargans there is a later (7:25 PM) one to Buchs, which also has frequent train service to Zürich. You could, of course, always take a taxi to Buchs (about 4 miles), from which the last train to Zürich leaves at 8:55 PM."

"As always, these schedules are subject to change and it would be a wise idea to check them beforehand, particularly the return times from Vaduz. The Tourist Information Office in Vaduz is across the main street from the bus terminal."

"By car from Zürich follow the N-3 on the south side of the Lake of Zürich to Sargans, then north on the E-61 a few miles until you come to a bridge crossing the Rhine. Go across this to Balzars in Liechtenstein and follow the local road to Vaduz. You will find ample parking near the bus terminal. The total distance is about 65 miles each way."

"TIME AND WEATHER"

"This trip requires nice, clear, warm weather as most of its charm depends on the vistas across the Alps and the valley far below. It can be taken from late Spring through early Fall. If the weather should turn bad be content to know that one of the world's best art museums is in Vaduz, so your day will not be a loss."

"FOOD AND DRINK"

"At the top of your walk, in the tiny village of Masescha and just in time for lunch, there is a good restaurant with both indoor and outdoor tables overlooking the Rhine Valley. Here, at a moderate price, you can get anything from a snack to a full meal. Go easy on the drinking, though, as the trail beyond this has a few treacherous spots."

"Back in Vaduz, there are several outdoor cafés on the main street that are quite charming. A good reward for your walking effort would be a glass or two of the deceptively light Vaduzer red wine, which resembles a rosé but packs a punch."

"WHAT TO BRING"

"First, a little experience in trail walking by at least one member of your party is recommended. Sturdy shoes are absolutely necessary. Bring along a light jacket or sweater for changing weather conditions. A bottle of water, fruit juice or soft drink would be very welcome. Finally, a camera and a pair of binoculars will greatly enhance your enjoyment of the trip."

"THE WALK"

"We begin by taking a bus over the steepest uphill climb, saving our energies for the more picturesque part of the trip. After checking the return schedules at the Tourist Information Office across the street from the Vaduz Bus Terminal (1), board the 10:40 AM local bus to Triesenberg, a distance of four miles, mostly up. Here your walk begins."

"At the bus stop in Triesenberg (2), an ancient Walser settlement and a popular resort, take the secondary road to the left toward Rotenboden. This follows a ridge overlooking the vast Rhine Valley landscape far below and is a relatively level walk. Once at Rotenboden (3), however, the road climbs to the right. There is virtually no traffic on this road, which crosses beautiful farmland. After a short while you will pass a stream with a waterfall to the left. Beyond this a footpath leads to the left and is marked for Masescha. Take this forest trail uphill until it again rejoins the paved road just before Masescha. In the winter this is a ski trail; the rest of the year it serves as a tractor path for the local farms."

"Arriving at Masescha (4) (photo, left), you will have climbed 1,160 feet since you left the bus at Triesenberg and are 2,560 feet above Vaduz and the Rhine Valley. Relax — from here on it's all downhill. But first have some lunch since the restaurant here is the only chance you will have to eat before ending up in Vaduz three hours later. Masescha is the oldest community of Walser settlers and has a small but interesting 14th-century church near the restaurant."

"Just beyond this, at a bend in the road, the trail takes off to the left. It is marked Vaduz Über Wildschloss (2¼ hours). After passing some farm buildings, the trail becomes a path going through an idyllic forest. Later, it opens again into farmland at the tiny settlement of Profatscheng (5), just beyond which you will come to a fork in the trail. Take the path marked Ruine Wildschloss & Vaduz to the right. This soon becomes a rough pathway in deep woods. There is another marked fork; again follow towards Ruine Wildschloss. The narrow path descends rapidly through the dense forest with occasional clearings providing beautiful views of the surrounding mountains. It then becomes a dirt logging road, which leads to the romantic ruin of an ancient fortress, Wildschloss (6)."

"Climb around the remaining walls and then continue on the dirt road to an intersection. Here take the fork to the left marked SCHLOSS VADUZ. you will pass a primitive animal feeding station on the right. When you come to a paved road turn to the right and walk downhill to Schloss Vaduz (7) (photo, right), the Royal Castle of the reigning prince. Built at least 700 years ago and added to throughout the centuries, it now houses, besides the royal family, the largest private art collection in the world. Unfortunately, it is not open to the public although its treasures are exhibited in the downtown art museum on a rotating basis."

"Beyond the castle a path to the left of the road leads down into the town of Vaduz. Where it joins the main street there are several outdoor cafés at which you can rest and reward yourself with a glass of the famous Vaduzer wine before taking leave of this improbable nation and returning to Zürich."

Copyright © 1978 Earl Steinbicker.

Although some 30 years old, this information remains basically valid today, with certain changes. CHECK FIRST before making the trip. A good source of current information about Liechtenstein is at W: tourismus.li. For current train schedules from Zürich visit W: sbb.ch.

 

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Let's Go For A Healthy Walk

Here are some of my experiences in hiking, from 1950 to now:

Hiking the Appalachian Trail. A 1950 adventure with three friends from school, in which we covered some 50 miles of woodland across Pennsylvania in nearly a week.

The Conquest of Japan's Mount Fuji. In 1959 two army buddies and I climb to the top of the sacred mountain in two days.

Innsbruck Mountain Walk. Walking along a ridge line high in the Austrian Alps, and what I wrote about that Little Adventure back in 1979.

Stoke Bruerne, England. An eight-mile stroll along the towpath of the Grand Union Canal to a lovely old village with a great pub.

A Mountain Walk Near Vaduz, Liechtenstein. An easy daytrip from Zürich in Switzerland takes you through the woods of a tiny nation, with great views.

Backpacking in New York State. Two three-day hikes in the 1970s, on by Mount Marcy in the Adirondacks, the other in the Catskills.

Why Walking Tours? Why I focus my travel writing on healthy walks.

Schneeberg, Austria. Ride up a real mountain in Vienna's backyard on an ancient steam train, then hike to its summit for a view.

Cookham, England. An easy country hike along the River Thames not far from London.

A Really Great Way to Travel. Musings on day hikes in England.

Ascent of the Hafelekar. A mountain walk or hike high above Innsbruck, Austria.

New York City's High Line. An abandoned elevated rail line that cuts through Manhattan's Lower West Side has been transformed into a wonderful hiking trail.

Wendelstein Mountain, Germany. Two short hikes in the foothills of the Alps and a walk atop a mountain are featured in this easy daytrip from Munich.

Lansdale's Wonderful Nature Trail. A near-wilderness experience in the Philadelphia suburbs.

More coming...stay tuned!

 

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SO, just what Little Adventure am I up to now in 2013? Why, just the most challenging one of them all! CLICK HERE TO FIND OUT.

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Why Walking Tours?

According to the health "experts," I should have perished long ago. But I'm still here, 73 years young and still in excellent shape. And I've never been seriously sick.

When I was a kid, back in the 1930s and 40s, we used to play with lead toys, little balls of mercury, and fistfuls of fluffy asbestos. And we ate lots of candy, soda, and hot dogs. Not exactly "healthy" living. To make matters worse, I started smoking as a teenager and didn't stop until my mid-50s. And then there's all that lovely beer.

So why am I still around?

BECAUSE I WALK.

I have always walked a lot as a kid, from the Appalachian Trail to the streets of Manhattan. To and from school, even when high school was well over two miles each way. When I moved to New York City in 1952 I quickly discovered that walking was often the best way to get around.

So when I started writing travel guides in the mid-1970s it was only natural that I organize them around walking tours. Not only is walking a key to good health, not only is it economical, but it is also the very best way of experiencing a destination. At a walking pace you can absorb the ambiance of a place more completely than when traveling in a car, bus, or even on a bicycle. And you get to meet more people.

Walking not only keeps me healthy, it also makes me happy — as seen in this very recent drawing of me by my nephew's 6-year-old daughter Haley, which really captures my spirit. Picasso could not have done better.

All it takes is decent footwear, which needn't cost much. In this regard I am partial to walking sneakers by New Balance, mostly because I have very wide feet, and because they last practically forever.

The only other thing needed is, of course, a place to walk. Fortunately, my town in the suburbs of Philadelphia has some really good trails. The top photo shows one of these, on which I walk several miles nearly every day, usually keeping up a 4 mph pace. That's my fellow walker Charlie just ahead.

By the way, I do not advocate that we go back to playing with lead, mercury, or asbestos — or eating junk food, smoking or overindulgence in booze. These are of course very unhealthy and must be avoided. It's just that they didn't manage to kill me, largely because I made up for their destructiveness by daily exercise in walking.

 

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INNSBRUCK MOUNTAIN WALK

Great Trips #158 — A One-Day Mountain Hike From Innsbruck

It's July 1979 and I'm in Innsbruck, Austria, gathering material for my "Great Trips / Europe" program. What I discovered was a relatively easy but thoroughly enjoyable 8-mile hike high in the Alps. This is what I wrote about it way back then:

NOTE: Although written 27 years ago, most of the information here is probably valid — still, if you intend to take this Little Adventure yourself you should check with the local tourist office first. I have deleted information regarding taking this daytrip from Munich, which was completely out of date.

UPDATE: I have recently redone this trip for my new guidebook Daytrips Austria. See details at bottom of page.

 

NEW UPDATE, June 2011. Owners of Apple's iPad, iPhone, and iPodTouch can now take all of the latest information along with them for this and other Austrian delights. Details at bottom of page. Now Also for Android devices.

The photos are in glorious Black & White because that's what I needed back then. I tried to add a little sepia to enhance them.

INTRODUCTION:

"Glorious mountains are what the Tirol is all about, and it is to them that you should head for a wonderful odyssey into this remarkable land. This daytrip from Innsbruck is a relatively easy ramble across a fantastic landscape far above the cares of the ordinary world, winding up in the splendid old village of Hall. Along the way you will pass some of the sites of the 1964 and 1976 Winter Olympics, ride a cable car to the top of a mountain, walk for over two hours along a gentle path with spectacular vistas, have lunch at a rustic alpine inn, descend on a chairlift, stroll through unspoiled countryside, cross the Inn River on a wooden covered bridge and, finally, explore one of the most charming little towns that Austria has to offer. If you love the out-of-doors but have been a bit hesitant about just marching off into the Alps by yourself, this pleasant excursion may well be the most memorable highlight of your visit to the Tirol."

TRANSPORTATION:

"From Innsbruck, begin at the main train station (Hauptbahnhof) (1) about 9 a.m. and follow the directions in THE TRIP section below."

[Travel information from Munich was no longer valid and was deleted]

TIME AND WEATHER:

"A clear, warm day between June and mid-October is essential for enjoyment of this trip. Since you will be walking at an altitude of nearly seven thousand feet, you can expect it to be a great deal cooler along the trail than it was in Innsbruck. You may, in fact, encounter a little leftover snow, even in August. This trip may be taken any day of the week, although the cable car can be a bit crowded on Sundays."

FOOD AND DRINK:

"Expect to find generous portions of inexpensive mountain type food at either of the alpine inns (4) and (5) near the end of your first walk. By this I mean meals of the pea soup, sausage, and beer variety; delicious and filling after the hike, but simply served in a rustic atmosphere.."

"At day's end, in the picturesque village of Hall, there are several nice outdoor cafés at which to relax before returning to Innsbruck."

WHAT TO BRING:

"A jacket or sweater is absolutely necessary on this trip, even if it is 90 degrees in the shade in Innsbruck. You won't be sorry if you bring both. A folding umbrella could be helpful should the weather change. Comfortable walking shoes are also required, although mountain boots are not necessary as the trail is well surfaced."

THE TRIP:

"From the front of Innsbruck's main train station (Hauptbahnhof) (1) take the "J" line bus, which departs every half-hour on the half and full hour, to the lower station of the Patscherkofel Cable Car (2) just above the resort village of Igls."

"You will pass various Olympic installations along the way, notably the ice stadium and ski jumps. Although this route may seem short on the map, it is very steep and not really suitable for walking. Once there, purchase a one-way ticket to the top of the mountain and board the large cable car. As it ascends the mountain  keep a lookout on the left for the spectacular Olympic bobsled run. Just beyond this, at Heiligwasser, you disembark and change to another cable car, which takes you to the Patscherkofel Berghotel (3), the starting point of our walk."

"Leaving the terrace of the hotel, at an altitude of 6,435 feet, follow the footpath marked Zirbenweg to the left in the direction of Tulfeinalm and Glungezer Hütte. This section of the trail is identified as Path #32, although the number changes later. The total walk to our first destination, Tulfeinalm (4), will take a little over two hours. Distances on alpine trails are commonly marked in terms of time rather than linear measurement; thus 2½ Std. (Stunde) refers to hours, not kilometers. A good walker will probably do better than the indicated time."

"The relatively level trail continues along the ridge of a high mountain with glorious panoramic vistas up and down the Inn Valley. Cows and goats, their clanging bells filling the air with music, can be seen grazing alongside the path. Presently you will reach a fork at which Path #32 is marked for Meissner Haus. Rather than take this, remain on the Zirbenweg, which bears left and is shown as Path #48. Gradually the trail enters a lovely pine forest still sheltering — in shaded spots — patches of last winter's snow, even in the height of summer."

"All along the walk you will meet other hikers who, if they are Austrian (as most are), will greet you with a friendly Grüss Gott, meaning "good day" in the local dialect. Just smile and try to repeat the phrase back to them."

"Still in the forest, a branch trail leads off to both sides. Avoid the one marked to Glungezer Hütte and stay with the Zirbenweg, following the signs to Tulfeinalm. From here on, the trail no longer has a number, Path #48 having turned down the mountain. Soon it crosses the tiny Lavierenbach brook. The first leg of our trip is almost over now. In only a few hundred yards you will come to the Tulfeinalm (4) where a rustic climber's hut offers hearty food at very reasonable prices. You can either eat here or at another similar place halfway down the mountain."

"On a small mound a few yards from the hut is the upper station of the Glungezer Sesselbahn. Buy a one-way ticket to Tulfes, seat yourself as gracefully as possible on the moving chairlift, and descend to the midway station, Halsmarter (5). The ride is surprisingly enjoyable and not in the least bit scary. Still, if you don't care for chairlifts, there is a dirt road paralleling it all the way down, which can easily be walked. Getting off at Halsmater, you will find another hut with good food and, delightfully, an outdoor café at which to relax and enjoy the sun-filled view."

"Continue on the second stage of the chairlift all the way to Tulfes (6). In the center of that village there is a bus stop (Haltstelle) from which you can get a ride to Hall-in-Tirol. A schedule is posted at the chairlift station. It is, however, far more interesting to walk the few miles. Follow the road downhill and, just before the first big bend to the left, turn right onto a path marked Fussweg nach Hall. This trail will again cross the main road. If you are really worn out by now take the paved road to the right. Otherwise, continue on the path, which goes a bit uphill, then down to the river. "

"Along the way the trail sometimes becomes a dirt road, even paved at points, goes through farms, forests, and crosses a fence. The first tiny settlement is called Gasteig. At the next one, Taschenlehen, be on the lookout for a path with a well-hidden sign marked for Hall. This is just before a short row of houses. It will lead you down under the Autobahn and onto a covered wooden bridge (7) crossing the Inn River."

"Emerging at the far end of this unusual span, you are now at Hall-in-Tirol, sometimes known as Solbad Hall, our final destination and one of the loveliest towns in Austria. Continue straight ahead on the Münzergasse to Burg Hasegg, an old castle from the Middle Ages. Opposite it, on the left, is the Münzerturm (8). Built around 1450, this brick tower has housed the Ducal Mint since 1477 and may be visited. It was here that the early Taler coins, forerunner of our dollars, were struck. In those days Hall was a very wealthy place, its prosperity derived from the salt mines and river navigation. It was also a notorious pleasure center for those wishing to escape the rigid life of Innsbruck."

"A short stroll beyond will take you to Unterer Stadtplatz. From here the Schweighofstiege steps lead to Eugenstrasse, at which you turn right to the Damenstift (9), a ladies' abbey founded in 1567. Walk through the Stiftsplatz and make a left onto Rosengasse. Just a few steps farther and you are in the marvelously picturesque Oberer Stadtplatz (10), a scene right out of a child's fairytale. The 13th-century parish church of St. Nikolaus, which dominates the square, is a visual fantasy. Opposite it is the 16th-century Town Hall (Rathaus), in front of which there is most conveniently placed an outdoor café, the perfect spot at which to end you day's ramblings."

"After exploring some of the narrow alleyways radiating from this gorgeous spot, head down the Langer Graben at the rear of the church and return to Unterer Stadtplatz. From here you can, if you wish, get a bus for the very short trip back to Innsbruck. If you would rather take the train, or if you are returning directly to Munich, follow the map to the train station (Bahnhof) (11), just a few blocks away."

Copyright © 1980 by Earl Steinbicker.

Please remember that this was written 27 years ago, before I was taught how to write by the editors at Hastings House. I apologize for any bad grammar and especially for the excessive use of adjectives. Some of the facts have no doubt changed over the years, so check first if you intend to take this daytrip yourself.

This trip and many others like it have been fully updated and placed in my brand-new guidebook, Daytrips Austria. For some free sample chapters from that and other similar guides, CLICK HERE. 

 

 

 

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Some other mountain adventures in Austria on this blog are: Ascent of the Hafelekar (from Innsbruck), Kitzbühel (also from Innsbruck), Eisriensenwelt (from Salzburg), and Schneeberg (from Vienna).

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