Life's Little Adventures

A New Alpine Viewing Platform at Garmisch-Partenkirchen

Something new and exciting has just been added to the Garmisch-Partenkirchen-Zugspitze region, an area covered by my current guidebooks Daytrips Germany, Daytrips Bavaria, and Daytrips Austria.
 

The AlpspiX viewing platform juts out some 43 feet over the edge of an abyss, and it's 3,300 feet straight down to the Höllental Valley of Hell. Stroll out on it if you dare!

There are several ways of getting to it from Garmisch-Partenkirchen, the Gateway to the Zugspitze Mountain and an easy daytrip from Munich by train or car. There are some good walking/hiking opportunities here, ranging from comfortable to somewhat strenuous. And, of course, great views towards Germany's famed Zugspitze.  CLICK HERE for current information.

Earlier entries on this blog include the full chapters on both Garmisch-Partenkirchen and the Zugspitze, both with maps and photos. Click on their names to view.

 

 

Mariazell, Austria

Here's another sample chapter from my recent guidebook Daytrips Austria:

Trip 10

Mariazell

A Daytrip from Vienna or Graz

Austria's foremost place of pilgrimage, the home of its national shrine, is so beautifully situated that a daytrip there from either Vienna or Graz is worthwhile for the scenic splendor alone. As a bonus, you can visit a magnificent basilica of great religious and historical significance, ride to the top of a mountain for panoramic views, and take a short hike or steam-tram ride to a lovely lake. The town itself is a year-round resort, with many pleasant diversions.

Located in a snug valley between mountains in the northernmost reaches of Styria, Mariazell began its long history as a venerated site on December 21, 1157. According to tradition, that's when five monks set up a lonely priory in the forest, erecting a statue of the Virgin that was soon thought to be performing miracles. A pilgrimage church was built in 1200, and in 1377 the king of Hungary attributed his victory over the Turks to the Virgin of Mariazell, beginning a tide of pilgrimage that has not ceased to this day. For many centuries, it was this cult that enhanced the union of Austria with the Hapsburg dynasty. Today's visitors are drawn not only for devotional reasons, but also for the sheer natural pleasures this small resort offers. Railfans coming by train from Vienna will find this to be a particularly enticing trip.

GETTING THERE:

Trains from Vienna leave the Westbahnhof (West Station) frequently for the 45-minute ride to St. Pölten, where you change to the old narrow-gauge Mariazellerbahn, built in 1905 and still one of the most scenic mountain rail lines in Austria. Trains on this line depart several times in the morning and early afternoon, taking about 2½ hours to reach Mariazell. Return service operates until late afternoon. Check schedules in advance as there may be changes. W: Oebb.at and W: mariazellerbahn.at. Trains from Vienna's Westbahnhof may be moved to the new Hauptbahnhof in 2011 or so.

Trains from Graz leave fairly often for Bruck an der Mur, where you change to a bus for Mariazell, a two-hour ride.

By Car from Vienna, leave on the A-1 Autobahn and head west to the St. Pölten Sud exit, then take the B-20 south into the mountains. Mariazell is 138 km (86 miles) southwest of Vienna.

By Car from Graz, take the A-9 Autobahn north, then the S-35 to Kapfenberg, followed by the B-20 north, a total distance of about 150 km (94 miles).

PRACTICALITIES:

Mariazell flourishes all year round, although a few minor sights are closed in winter. The historic steam tram operates on weekends and holidays, from July through September. The local Tourist Office, T: (03882) 2366, W: mariazell.at, is at Hauptplatz 13, to the left of the basilica. Mariazell is in the Land of Steiermark and has a population of about 2,000.

This trip could be combined in the same day with the one to St. Pölten (page 62).

FOOD AND DRINK:    

Some especially good choices in Mariazell are:

Jägerwirt (Hauptplatz 2, directly across from the basilica) Traditional Austrian fare with an old-fashioned country atmosphere. T: (03882) 23-62. €€

Café Goldener Löwe (Hauptplatz 1a, across from the basilica) Austrian and Italian dishes, indoors or out. Check out the upstairs men’s room. X: Mon. T: (03882) 2444. € and €€

Edelweisshütte (Atop the Bürgeralpe, a short walk from the upper cable-car station past the observation tower) A rustic Alpine retreat with indoor and outdoor tables. T: (03882) 42-55. €

Brauhaus Mariazell (Wiener Strasse 5, just north of the Hauptplatz) Home-brewed beer and local dishes. X: Tues. T: (03882) 4255. €

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

For those coming by train from Vienna, the Mariazell Train Station (1) is a pleasant 15-minute walk along a path marked Bahnhofpromenade into the town proper. Follow Ludwig-Leber Strasse past the parking lot and bus station (for those arriving by bus or car), turning left on Grazer Strasse to the Hauptplatz, or main square. Rising in front of you is the great:

*BASILICA (2), T: (03882) 25-950, W: basilika-mariazell.at. Church open daily 6 a.m.-8 p.m. Free. Treasury open May to late Oct., Tues.-Sat. 10-3, Sun. 11-4. €.

Mariazell’s great basilica grew out of a pilgrimage church of 1200. The present structure dates from the 14th century, but was greatly enlarged and altered during the late 17th century. Its appearance may seem rather strange, what with two squat, bulbous Baroque towers flanking the original Gothic spire and porch. Inside, however, it is a triumph of the Baroque style, resplendent in its elaborate plasterwork and paintings. The main focus of pilgrimage, the *Gnadenkapelle or Chapel of Miracles, is in the center of the nave. A silver baldachin designed in 1727 by J.E. Fischer von Erlach the Younger shelters the original 12th-century statue of the Virgin of Mariazell, or Magna Mater Austriae, the Austrian national shrine. The silver grille around it was donated in 1756 by Empress Maria Theresa.

Beyond this is the High Altar of 1704, a famous creation by Austria's master of the Baroque, J.B. Fischer von Erlach the Elder. The Treasury (Schatzkammer), up a few steps, has a wonderful collection of votive offerings dating from medieval times to the present, along with valuable items of ecclesiastical art.

A path leads uphill from the rear of the church to the Kalvarienberg (Mount Calvary) (3), passing Stations of the Cross and a display of mechanical nativity figurines.

Return to the Hauptplatz and follow Wiener Strasse for two blocks to the lower station of the Bürgeralpebahn Cable Car (4), which quickly lifts you up to the 4,150-foot-high *Bürgeralpe Plateau (5) for a bird's-eye view of the surrounding mountains and lakes. A sham-medieval observation tower, just up the path, allows you to climb above the tree line for an even better look. Several invigorating forest strolls following marked trails can be taken from here. In winter this becomes a popular ski area, especially favored by family groups. Cable car round-trip €€.

Back in town, continue down Wiener Strasse to the Heimatmuseum (Museum of Local History) (6), featuring rustic room settings and folk arts from times gone by. Tours: May-June, Wed. at 2:30, Fri. at 10; July-Sept., Mon., Tues, Thurs., Sat. at 10, Wed. at 2:30, Sun. at 10:30. €€.

The route on the map returns you to the train station in about 10 minutes. From there, you might want to make a side trip of about two miles to the Erlaufsee (7), a lovely lake surrounded by impressive mountains. While this makes an excellent walk, if you happen to come on a weekend or holiday from July through September you could ride there on the delightful *Museumstramweg instead. Running with open cars from the train station to the lake, this claims to be the world's oldest remaining steam tram and, along with the train ride from St. Pö1ten provides a memorable experience. W: erlebnisbahn.at. There is also bus service to the lake. Ask at the tourist office for current schedules for both.

Text and map copyright © 2008 by Earl Steinbicker

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Kitzbühel, Austria

Heading to Austria? Visiting Innsbruck? Here'a an easy Daytrip high in the Tirol, taken directly from my recent guidebook Daytrips Austria:

Trip 24

 

Kitzbühel

 

A Daytrip from Innsbruck

Long regarded as one of the world’s premier winter ski resorts, Kitzbühel makes an excellent destination in the warmer seasons as well. The town itself is quite picturesque with its traces of a thousand-year history, and there are numerous easy walks in the region as well as two mountains – both offering great views – that can be ascended by cable car.

 “Kitz,” as it is often called, dates originally from Celtic times although its first recorded mention was around 1180. Once surrounded by a moat, it grew along a ridge between two Alpine streams. The medieval town received its first municipal charter in 1271 and flourished with the development of silver and copper mines, especially in the 16th century. Today it is a fashionable resort catering to an international clientele.

GETTING THERE:

Trains depart Innsbruck’s main station several times in the morning for Kitzbühel. Some require a change at Wörgl. Direct trains take about one hour; indirect trains a bit over 1½ hours. Return service operates until mid-evening.

By Car, Kitzbühel is about 95 km (59 miles) east of Innsbruck. Take the A-12 east to Wörgl, then the B-170 into Kitzbühel.

PRACTICALITIES:

Those coming during the warmer seasons won’t need any special attire other than good walking shoes. The Tourist Information Office is in the old town at Hinterstadt 18, T: (05356) 777, W: kitzbuehel.com.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Tennerhof (Griesenweg 26, 500 meters north of the historic churches) One of the truly great restaurants of Austria, serving contemporary Austrian cuisine. Reservations a must, T: (05356) 631-81, W: tennerhof.at. €€€ and €€€+ 

Eggerwirt (Gänsbachgasse 12, a block east of the historic churches) Local specialties in an Alpine setting. T: (05356) 624-37, W: eggerwirt-kitzbuehel.at. X: off-season. € and €€

Huberbräu Stüberl (Vorderstadt 18 in the old town) A friendly beer hall with typical Austrian cooking. T: (05356) 656-77. €

SUGGESTED TOUR:

 

 

 Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map. Click on map to enlarge.

Kitzbühel’s Main Train Station (Hauptbahnhof) (1) lies about a half-mile (.8 km) north of the old town. Walk straight ahead on Bahnhofstrasse, cross the stream, and turn left on Josef-Pichl-Strasse, following that around to two historic churches on the right. The Liebfrauenkirche (Church of Our Lady) (2) dates in part from 1373 and is noted for a massive square tower that seems much too large for the rest of the structure. Its upper floor was added in 1490 and redone in the Baroque style during the 1730s, with latter Rococo additions. Of particular note is the ceiling fresco depicting the Coronation of the Virgin by the local artist Simon-Benedict Faistenberger. Also noteworthy are the ex-votos, the grille, and the 17th-century altar painting of the Virgin done in the manner of Cranach.

Nearly adjoining this is the 15th-century Pfarrkirche St. Andreas (3), a parish church of some distinction. Although redecorated in the Baroque style in 1750, many of the original Gothic features remain in the triple nave. The same artist who added much to the Liebfrauenkirche (above) also contributed some of the ceiling frescoes. His grandfather, Benedict Faistenberger, created the high altar.

 Continue down Vorderstadt, bearing right onto Hinterstadt and passing the tourist information office. Straight ahead is the local Heimatmuseum (Museum Kitzbühel) (4). Housed in Kitzbühel’s oldest structure, a 12th-century grain store, this regional museum celebrates local history from prehistoric to modern times, including a section on winter sports. T: (05356) 672-74. Open mid-March to mid-June, Rues.-Sat. 10-1; mid-June to mid-Sept., daily 10-6; mid-Sept. through Ocr., Tues.-Sat. 10-1; Nov., Sat. 10-1; Dec., Wed.-Fri. 3-6, Sat. 10-6. €.

You can get a good view of Kitzbühel and the Alps surrounding it from the tops of two nearby mountains, both easily ascended by cable car. The best panorama is from the summit of the *Kitzbühler Horn (5). From an elevation of 6,550 feet (1,996 meters), the *view extends from the Kaisergebirge peaks in the north to the Grossglockner in the south. While up there, you can also visit the Alpine Flower Garden, where some 120 varieties bloom between June and August. T: (05356) 628-57, W: bergbahn-kitzbuehel.at. Cable car operates mid-May through early Oct. and late-Dec. through March, daily 8:30-4, until 5 in summer. Round trip €€€€.

 

The other easily-ascended mountain top is the Hahnenkamm (6), world-famous for its ski runs. In summer, visitors can take short scenic hikes (photo, above), dine high above the town at Restaurant Hochkitzbühel, and visit a summit museum devoted to cable cars. T: (05356) 628-57, W: bergbahn-kitzbuehel.at. Cable car operates daily late May through Oct. and Dec.-mid-April. 8:30-4, 4:30 in summer. Round trip €€€€.

An easy walk that can be taken from the town is to and around the Schwarzsee (7). This lovely lake lies just over a mile (2 km) northwest of Kitzbühel, reached on foot or by car by taking Franz-Reisch-Strasse (Route B-170) in the direction of Kirchberg. Trail #12 goes around the lake, a nearly level distance of 2 miles (3.2 km).

Text and map copyright © 2008 by Earl Steinbicker

Top photo copyright © by Kitzbühel Tourismus.

Bottom photo courtesy of Kitzbühel Bergbahn.

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The Wendelstein Mountain, Germany

Trip 22

The Wendelstein

A Daytrip from Munich

 

Towering at some 6,000 feet, the Wendelstein may not be the highest peak in the Bavarian Alps, but it does provide the focus for a very enjoyable daytrip. Münchners have been reveling in the view from its summit ever since Germany's first alpine rack railway was built there in 1912. A cable car down its other side has since been added, making possible an exciting circular tour. Add to this the charming small resort of Bayrischzell and you have the makings of a fun-filled day in the mountains.

GETTING  THERE:

Trains leave Munich's main station several times in the morning for the 90-minute ride direct to Bayrischzell. Those making the full circular trip will be returning via Brannenburg, from which trains to Munich run until early evening. Some of these require a change at Rosenheim. If you decide against making the full circuit you can return from Osterhofen as late as early evening. Be sure to check the schedules very carefully; they vary on weekends and holidays. Schedules are at W: bahn.de.

By Car, Bayrischzell is 77 km (48 miles) southeast of Munich. Take the A-8 Autobahn to the Irschenberg exit and head south on local roads past Schliersee to Bayrischzell. It is not very practical to make the full circular tour by car, although there is limited bus service (May to September only) from Brannenburg back to Osterhofen.

PRACTICALITIES:

Good weather is absolutely essential for this trip as it involves a few miles of pleasant country walking, except for those who are driving. The cable car and rack railway operate all year round, except for two weeks in mid-April. Bayrischzell has a local Tourist Information Office (Kurverwaltung), T: (08023) 648, W: bayrischzell.de, at Kirchplatz 2. The permanent population of Bayrischzell is about 1,600.

FOOD  AND  DRINK:

Zur Post (Schulstr. 3 in Bayrischzell) An alpine hotel noted for its cooking. T: (08023) 819-710. X: Tues. in April, May & Oct. €€

Hotel Wendelstein (Ursprungstr. 1 in Bayrischzell) An inn with good-value meals in a beer garden. T: (08023) 808-90. X: Mon., Nov. to mid-Dec. € and €€

Wendelsteinhaus (at the top of the cable car) Meals, snacks or drinks with a view, indoors or out, full service or self-service. T: (08023) 404. €, €€ and €€€

 

 

SUGGESTED  TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Begin at the Bayrischzell train station (1). Tourist information is available at the Kur office near the church to the left. You might want to pick up a large-scale map (Wanderkarte) of the area before setting out. The pretty village is small enough to explore in a half-hour or so, and has a good selection of restaurants and cafés.

From Bayrischzell you can walk along a lovely trail (sign-posted as Route K5) just north of the railway line to the cable car station in Osterhofen (2), a distance of just under two miles. It is also possible to get there by train, bus, taxi, car, or bike.

Those making the circular tour should purchase a combination ticket for the cable car and rack railway to Brannenburg. If you would rather return to Munich from Osterhofen you can get a round-trip cable car ticket (Berg und Talfahrt) instead. Board the cable car (Seilbahn) for the eight-minute ride to the top. T: (08034) 30-80, W: wendelsteinbahn.de. Roundtrip €€€. Roundtrip including bus back to Osterhofen €€€€.

From the upper station (3) you can stroll out on a terrace for a fabulous view of the Alps and the Chiemsee far below. Food and drinks with a view are offered at the Wendelsteinhaus. There is an attractive chapel nearby, the highest in Germany, which dates from 1718. Just below this is the entrance to the 600-foot-long cave(Höhle), giving you a chance to explore the insides of the mountain. Trails lead in several directions, the most interesting of which climbs to the solar observatory at the summit (6,035 feet above sea level). Be sure to visit the Geo-Park(photo, below).

 

The rack railway(Zahnradbahn) to Brannenburg leaves from a station nearby. Those making the circular trip should board it for the delightful half-hour descent to the valley station (4). From here it is possible to get one of the infrequent buses (May-September only) back to Osterhofen, or walk a little less than two miles to the Brannenburg train station (5) and take a train from there to Munich. Some of these require a change at Rosenheim.

Text and map copyright © 2009 by Earl Steinbicker. Photos courtesy of Bayrischzell Tourist Office.

 

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This complete chapter is taken from my recent guidebooks Daytrips Germany and the more compact Daytrips Bavaria. 

Mountains

Several of the postings on this blog are are about glorious mountains:

Appalachian Trail, Pennsylvania. A 1950 adventure with three friends from school, in which we covered some 50 miles of woodland across Pennsylvania in nearly a week.

Berchtesgaden, Germany. The castle, the salt mines, Germany's most beautiful lake, snow-capped Alps, and the famous Eagle's Nest — all together in one easy daytrip from either Munich or Salzburg.

Eisriesenwelt, Austria. The world's largest perpetually-frozen ice cave can be explored on this easy daytrip from Salzburg.

Fuji, Japan. Our overnight experiences in climbing Japan's Mount Fuji back in 1959.

Füssen and Neuschwanstein, Germany. THE dream castle to end all castles was built high in the Bavarian Alps by crazy King Ludwig II in the 19th century. A daytrip from Munich.

Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany. Explore an alpine village at the foot of Germany's highest mountain, and wander through a whitewater ravine in this daytrip from Munich.

Innsbruck - Ascent of the Hafelekar, Austria. An easy but exciting mountain adventure in the Alps. 

Innsbruck Mountain Walk, Austria. An east hike in the Austrian Alps, now included in Daytrips Austria.

Kitzbühel, Austria. One of the world's leading winter resorts is equally attractive in warmer seasons. An easy daytrip from Innsbruck.

Mittenwald, Germany. One of Bavaria's most enchanting towns is easily seen on a daytrip from either Munich or Innsbruck. FRom watching violins being made to ascending a spectacular mountain to wandering through a whitewater gorge, there's planty to see and do.

New York's Adirondacks. Camping at Mount Marcy, then in the Catskills.

Nikko, Japan. We climb to the sacred shrines and then take in the natural splendors of Lake Chuzenji.

Rocky Mountain High, Colorado. A 2007 journey through Colorado's Rocky Mountains.

Schneeberg, Austria. Ride up Vienna's "Snow Mountain" on an ancient steam train, then hike to the summit for a view.

Vaduz, Liechtenstein. This easy daytrip takes you from Zurich to an adventurous mountain hike above the capital of a tiny nation.

Var Valley, France. Ride a narrow-gauge train from Nice on the Riviera to the lower Alps, stopping at a mountain resort and a walled town with a castle.

Wendelstein, Germany. This roundtrip by rail or car from Munich includes an alpine village, a cable car up a mountain, a cave, some nice hikes, and a cog-wheel train down the mountain.

Zugspitze, Germany. One of the classic daytrips in Germany is an excursion to the top of Germany's highest peak.

 

Interested in photography? Check out my "Assisting Avedon" blog.

 

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Ascent of the Hafelekar, Austria

My recent guidebook Daytrips Austria has several one-day mountain adventures that are easy to take and require no mountaineering skills. In fact, anyone in good health can do them, but they're still a lot of fun and take you high into the Alps.

 

 

Trip 23

Innsbruck

Ascent of the Hafelekar

Here’s a trip that can be as comfortable as you desire – or as challenging. The Hafelekar mountain peak towers some 7,658 feet (2,334 meters) above Innsbruck and is easily reached by cable car for a staggering view across the Alps. Along the way is the highest zoo in Europe. Several rest stops feature places to eat and drink while basking in the glorious sights. Once at the top, you might take either a short walk along a civilized trail, or test your skills at real hiking for a short distance. Or just sit there gazing at the mountains.

The rugged Hafelekar is one of the highest peaks of the Nordkette (North Chain), a part of the Karwendel Range of the Alps. It has an overwhelming presence for the people of Innsbruck, dominating every northward view from downtown streets. These are true Alpine mountains — jagged, rugged peaks often covered with snow – that will reward even the most novice hiker with a real Alpine experience.

 

 

GETTING THERE:

This trip begins inside Innsbruck, with a choice of three transportation modes. The newest is to take the Hungerburgbahn from the Congress Innsbruck (Convention Center)(1) on Rennweg just north of the Hofburg. This modern funicular railway runs underground to the Löwenhaus, then crosses a spectacular bridge, and travels underground to the first stop, the Alpenzoo. It then continues to the Hungerburg stop, where you transfer to a cable car. The elegantly modern system, first opened in late 2007, was designed by the noted architect Zaha Hadid.

Another option is to take Route 2 of the Sightseer Bus from Maria Theresien Strasse to the Alpenzoo, then continue by Hungerburgbahn to Hungerburg and the cable car, or get there via a footpath.

The third option is to take City Bus W from Marktplatz to the Alpenzoo, then continue as above.

You will return via the same route.

PRACTICALITIES:

Bring along a jacket and/or sweater, even in summer, as it can be quite cool (or even snowing) at the summit. Those planning to take the short walk will need good walking shoes; for the longer trek real hiking boots are more appropriate, along with a trail map. Of course, if you’re not going farther than the upper cable car station, ordinary shoes and attire will suffice.

If you are taking the long hike, be sure to check the weather forecast first, keep an eye on the clouds, have enough clothing to keep you warm in case of a sudden storm, and be prepared to turn back quickly in that event. Experienced hikers have died on this trail due to sudden weather changes.

For further information contact the Innsbruck Tourist Office, T: (0512) 598-60, W: innsbruck-tourismus.com. Some other useful websites are: W: sightseer.at, W: alpenzoo.at, and W: nordpark.com/bahn.

 FOOD AND DRINK:

Restaurant Seegrube (at the Seegrube cable car station) Both full service and cafeteria dining, indoors with a view or out on the sun terrace. T: (0512) 293-375. €, €€, and €€€

During the summer season the Hafelekar Mountain Lodge at the upper cable car station also operates a restaurant, with casual indoor/outdoor dining.

 

 

 

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Begin your tour by taking any one of the three transit options to the Alpenzoo (2), or drive there. The brand-new Hungerburgbahn Funicular starts at the Congress (Convention Center)(1) on Rennweg, just above the Hofburg in central Innsbruck. Runs weekdays 7 a.m. to 7:30 p.m., weekends and holidays 8 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. Roundtrip €€, combo ticket including Alpenzoo and cable cars to Hafelekar available. 

In just a few minutes you will reach the stop for the:

ALPENZOO (2), T: (0512) 292-323, W: alpenzoo.at. Open April-Oct., daily 9-6; Nov.-March, daily 9-5. €€. Café.

 Europe’s highest zoo features wildlife of the Alps, with over 2,000 animals and birds representing some 150 different species. Among them are bears, ibexes, moose, rodents, reptiles, amphibians, and vultures. There is also a cold-water aquarium teeming with fish native to the region.

Return to the funicular and continue your uphill journey to Hungerburg. At the upper station you cross the street to the lower station (Talstation) of the Nordkettenbahn cable car (3), first built in 1927 but recently modernized. This will lift you in minutes to an elevation of 6,250 feet (1,905 meters) at Seegrube (4), from which you will get excellent panoramic views of Innsbruck and its valley. There is a good restaurant and cafeteria here, with both indoor and outdoor dining. Several hiking trails lead off, offering the possibilities of a short walk.

Now for the real climb. Board the steep cable car for Hafelekar (5), whose upper station (Bergstation) is at the dizzying height of 7,400 feet (2,256 meters), with a nearly vertical fall. The peak (Hafelekarspitze) is just 256 feet (78 meters) above this. Again, there is a restaurant and snack bar, this one open in the summer season only. Visitors can also inspect (from the outside) the research station operated by Victor Franz Hess (1883-1964), who won the Nobel Prize for Physics in 1936 for his discovery of cosmic radiation. You can then opt to just enjoy the stupendous *view, or you might go for a hike or shorter walk.

A short walk leads from the cable car station towards the east along the Goetheweg path (marked as #219), soon turning left up the east ridge to the Hafelekarspitze (6), then back down to the cable car. This should take about 45 minutes to complete.

A longer hike begins on the same Goetheweg path (marked as #219), but instead of turning left for the peak, contine on in the direction of Pfeishütte (7). You probably won’t get as far as that Alpine hut before turning back, but you will enjoy incomparable views to the south extending as far as the Europabrücke, Europe’s highest highway bridge, and beyond into Italy. Watch your time — it’s a 4½-hour roundtrip trek if you go all the way to the hut. Long before then, the trail passes to the north side of the ridge, with an entirely different landscape looking north into Germany.

Return to the cable car station to begin the trip back into Innsbruck. Mountain goats and experienced climbers might want to hike back as far as Hungerburg (3) by following the steep Arzler Reisse trail down a rubble-strewn gully.

 Text and map Copyright © 2008 Earl Steinbicker

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Herculaneum and Vesuvius, Italy

Here's another free sample chapter from my guidebook Daytrips Italy Fifth Edition (2005), updated to 2009. 

Trip 37

 

Herculaneum

and Vesuvius

 (Ercolano e Vesuvio)

A Daytrip from Naples or Sorrento

When Mount Vesuvius blew its top in AD 79 it destroyed more than just Pompeii. The residential and resort town of Herculaneum was also buried under as much as 80 feet of muddly effluent that hardened into a form of tufa stone, preserving its buildings to a truly remarkable degree. Although it is much smaller and less famous than Pompeii, Herculaneum is in some ways more interesting — and a lot less crowded. The surrounding modern town of Ercolano is also the departure point for trips to the top of the volcano, so it is easily possible to combine visits to both the victim and the perpetrator in the same day.

Herculaneum began as the Greek settlement of Herakleion, founded, according to legend, by Hercules. Later occupied by Oscans and Samnites, it fell into Roman hands in 89 BC. Possibly used as a retirement colony for veterans, the town became a resort for wealthy Romans, who built splendid villas there. At the time of its destruction it had a population of about 5,000. 

There is a certain thrill about going to the top of Mount Vesusvius — after all, it is an active volcano, the only one on the European mainland. Since the last major eruption in 1944 it had lost its distinctive plume of smoke that often colored the Neapolitan skies, and today emits only scattered vapors. This can be deceptive, however, as the beast is only sleeping and certainly not dead.

GETTING THERE:

Commuter trains operated by the private Circumvesuviana Railway in the direction of Sorrento depart frequently from their own station underneath the Centrale station in Naples. These same trains leave a few minutes earlier from the Circumvesuviana station on Corso Garibaldi. Take one of these as far as the Ercolano stop, about 15 minutes from Naples. Return service operates until mid-evening. Railpasses are not accepted on this line, but fares are very low. Those coming from Sorrento should take the same line in the direction of Naples. Online information: W: vesuviana.it.

By Car, take the A-3 Autostrada southeast to the Ercolano exit, about 11 km (7 miles) from Naples. From here follow signs a short distance to Scavi di Ercolano for Herculaneum, and signs for Vesuvio to visit Mount Vesuvius.

PRACTICALITIES:

The excavations at Herculaneum are open daily except New Year's Day, May 1, and Christmas. Clear weather is absolutely essential for an enjoyable ascent of Mount Vesuvius, for which a light jacket or sweater may be welcome — along with suitable shoes and sunglasses.

Your best source of information is the provincial Tourist Office in Naple's Centrale train station, T: 081-206-666. In Ercolano there is a small local tourist office, T: 081-788-1243, at Via IV Novembre 84, between the train station and the excavations.

FOOD AND DRINK:

The local wine of Mount Vesuvius is the golden white Lacrima Christi, grown right on the slopes of the volcano. There are a few ordinary pizzerias and bars between the train station and the excavations in Ercolano, and some snack bars at the parking lot of Mount Vesuvius.

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Begin your tour at the Ercolana train station (1). If you intend to visit Mount Vesuvius (12) by bus you should start with that first as their schedule is limited. The bus (and taxis) to Vesuvius leave from directly opposite the train station. If you have any questions about this, stop at the local tourist office. 

Continue straight ahead along the main street for about three blocks to the entrance of:

*HERCULANEUM EXCAVATIONS(Scavi di Ercolano) (2), T: 081-857-5331, W: pompeiisites.org. Open April-Oct., daily 8:30-7:30; Nov.-March, daily 8:30-5. Closed Jan. 1, May 1, Dec. 25. €€. Free for EU citizens under 18, over 65. Combined ticket with Pompeii available. 

Once inside you will see several authorized guides who will offer to take you around, expecting a tip in reward. This is by far the best way to see Herculaneum since the guides are knowledgeable and have the keys to those houses that are locked. Attempting to identify the ruined structures by yourself is very difficult, even using the best guide books available. After the guided tour is finished you can retrace your steps — the site is quite small — and spend more time at those spots of greatest interest. The short descriptions given below are only a rough guide to the most important highlights.

Herculaneum was discovered in 1709 when a local prince came across ruins while digging a well. Further excavations were made with the support of the king of Naples after 1738 but, as was common in those days, the only interest was in recovering valuable artifacts. Real systematic archaeological work began in 1927 and is still underway. Digging is especially painstaking as everything is literally encased in stone. To date, only a small portion of Herculaneum has been uncovered since most of it lies under the modern town of Ercolano, once known as Resina.

From the bottom of the long entrance ramp turn right to the *House of the Mosaic Atrium (Atrio a Mosaico) (3), which has some very fine mosaic floor and a lovely garden. Some of its wooden window frames are preserved, a feature of Herculaneum that is missing in Pompeii, where the hot ashes ignited the wood. Just up the street is the House of the Wooden Trellis (Graticcio) (4), a plebian dwelling using cheap wood-and-plaster construction and incorporating a shop. Not all of the wood here is orginal, of course. Next to this is the House of the Wooden Partition (Tramezzo di Legno), a multi-storied private house where parts of a wooden wall are still well preserved. Bits of furniture and even some ancient food are displayed in glass cases. The shop on the corner has a wooden clothes press in excellent condition.

On the opposite corner stands the Samnite House(Sannitica) (5) which, although modified, has interesting pre-Roman origins. Its interior atrium is especially noteworthy. The large *Baths(Thermae) (6) have survived much as they were when first built during the reign of Augustus. Not as luxurious as those at Pompeii, they are nonetheless quite well planned and have separate entrances for men and women.

Cross the street to the House of the Charred Furniture(Mobilio Carbonizzato) (7), a charming middle-class home with some orginal furniture. Standing next to it is the House of the Neptune Mosaic(Nettuno e di Anfitrite) with a siperbly well-preserved shop on the street, complete with merchandise that was for sale at the moment of destruction. Step into the courtyard to view the besutiful mosaics of Neptune and Anfitrite.

Continue up the street to the House of the Beautiful Courtyard (Bel Cortile) (8), an unusual structure in which objects of everyday life are displayed. Now turn right onto the main street, the Decumanus Maximus, where there is a public fountain.The Forum, not yet excavated, lies buried beyond this.

The House of the Bicentenario (9) was so named because it was unearthed 200 years after the first serious digs began. Curiously, the outline of a cross on a wall of an upstairs room seems to suggest that a Christian lived here, although the crucifix symbol was not known to have been used as early as AD 79.

Turn right onto the Cardo V street and follow it past many interesting sights, including the partially excavated Palestra, to the House of the Deer (Cervi) (10). This is the most luxurious villa yet unearthed at Herculaneum, and is filled with remarkable art and sculpture. A ramp from here leads down to the former port, now far away from the sea. The Suburban Baths (Thermae) (11) were constructed shortly before the disaster and are in exceptionally fine condition.

You have now seen the major attractions of Herculaneum. Return to the entrance and walk up the street to the train station (1).

Buses to Mount Vesuvius (Vesuvio) depart from the corner diagonally opposite the station. Otherwise, you can take a cab (but negotiate a price first!), or if you have a car drive there following the signs. The road takes you most of the way up and ends at a parking lot. From there it's an easy climb of about 30 minutes over loose gravel. At the *Summit (12) you are required to use the services of a guide, who will take you around the crater. The view from the top, 4,189 feet above the sea, is simply fantastic. Transporti Vesuviani buses depart more-or-less hourly, about 9-1:30, with returns from about 11 tp 4. Roundtrip €, purchase on bus. Entrance and guide €€. W: vesuvioinrete.it for information.

Text and map copyright © 2005 Earl Steinbicker

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Vaduz, Liechtenstein

A ONE-DAY TRIP FROM ZÜRICH, SWITZERLAND

I wrote about this Little Adventure as part of my Great Trips/Europe project was back in 1978, and it remains basically sound today. If you want to try it yourself you should first get up-to-date information from the sources at the bottom of this post.

Anyway, here's the original 1978 text:

"A MOUNTAIN WALK NEAR VADUZ"

"INTRODUCTION"

"About the closest we shall ever come to exploring that mythical Kingdom of Ruritania so beloved of operetta composers is a visit to Fürstentum Liechtenstein, a tiny but independent country neatly tucked away in the Alps between Switzerland and Austria. A daytrip spent hiking through its beautiful forests and magnificent mountains is a wonderful experience for any visitor to nearby Zürich who loves wandering around in the great outdoors."

"Yes, gentle traveler, there really is a Liechtenstein and it is a happy land ruled over by a genuinely benevolent Prince. Of the six independent states of Europe, it ranks third in size, being larger than San Marino, Monaco, or Vatican City but much smaller than either Andorra or Luxembourg. The people are prosperous and the taxes low although it is not quite true that the entire country is financed through the sale of postage stamps. Actually, Liechtenstein is primarily an industrial country; in fact the most intensely industrialized country in Europe — something you will never notice as the factories are nearly invisible."

"Its history is an interesting one. Originally part of the Rhaetian culture, it fell to the advancing Romans in 15 BC and was on their main route linking Germany with Italy. When the Allemanians chased the Romans out of the Alps in the third century it took on a Germanic character, being made part of Germany during the reign of Charlemagne's son Pippin. For a long time after that Liechtenstein, then known as the separate domains of Vaduz and Schellenberg, was ruled by local counts. It changed hands many times during the constant struggle between the Germans and Swiss."

"In 1719 it finally became an independent state within the Austrian Empire when it was purchased by a wealthy Viennese prince, Johann Adam von Liechtenstein. Although they owned vast lands all over the Austro-Hungarian Empire, the Liechtenstein family treated their tiny new principality as a pet hobby into which they poured great sums of money. "

"With the dissolution of the Holy Roman Empire in 1806 Liechtenstein became fully sovereign, with links to the German Confederation lasting until 1866. From then until the First World War it had certain ties with the home country of its ruling family, Austria. Barely escaping the final dismemberment of the Austro-Hungarian Empire in 1918, Liechtenstein allied itself with Switzerland by means of a customs and monetary union completed in 1924 and still in force today. The neutrality of the Swiss spared the Liechtensteiners the agony of World War Two, which surely would have engulfed them had they retained links with Austria."

"The present ruler, His Serene Highness, Franz Joseph II, Maria Aloys Karl Johannes Heinrich Michael Georg Ignatius Benediktus Gerhardus Majella, Twelfth Ruling Prince of Liechtenstein, Duke of Jägendorf, Count of Rietberg, Knight of the Golden Fleece, etc. is the world's last reigning Hapsburg. Despite all the royal titles, the Prince is a no-nonsense businessman who has brought a tremendous amount of investment capital in his stable and extremely prosperous land. Technically, he could be deposed at any time by the will of the very democratic people of Liechtenstein, but they are understandably reluctant to do this as in keeping the Monarchy they can enjoy the best of both worlds." [NOTE: This was written in 1978. The present ruling prince is his son, Hans Adam II, who in 2004 transferred executive power to his son Alois].

"Liechtenstein has a population of 24,000 [NOTE: Now 33,000] spread over an area of about 60 square miles. Most of the people live in the valley along the Rhine river surrounding the capital of Vaduz. As a result of its connection with neighboring Switzerland, the unit of money is the Swiss Franc and there are no border formalities for persons coming from that country. Driving through it in a car, this peaceful principality seems but a dot on the map pf Europe; however, on foot it assumes the proportions of a real kingdom, a magical place suspended in time between fairytales and the modern world. The walk described here should be a very enjoyable one indeed."

"TRANSPORTATION"

"From the Zürich Hauptbahnhof (Main Train Station) take the 8:21 AM train to Sargans, arriving there at 9:20 AM [NOTE: Check current schedules online at sbb.ch]. Change immediately to the bus marked Vaduz after first purchasing a roundtrip bus ticket in the Sargans station. This will get you to the bus terminal in Vaduz by 10 AM, at which point you begin your trip."

"Returning, take the 5:20 PM bus to Sargans, which is the last one to that town. Change there to the 5:50 PM train to Zürich. If you miss the last bus to Sargans there is a later (7:25 PM) one to Buchs, which also has frequent train service to Zürich. You could, of course, always take a taxi to Buchs (about 4 miles), from which the last train to Zürich leaves at 8:55 PM."

"As always, these schedules are subject to change and it would be a wise idea to check them beforehand, particularly the return times from Vaduz. The Tourist Information Office in Vaduz is across the main street from the bus terminal."

"By car from Zürich follow the N-3 on the south side of the Lake of Zürich to Sargans, then north on the E-61 a few miles until you come to a bridge crossing the Rhine. Go across this to Balzars in Liechtenstein and follow the local road to Vaduz. You will find ample parking near the bus terminal. The total distance is about 65 miles each way."

"TIME AND WEATHER"

"This trip requires nice, clear, warm weather as most of its charm depends on the vistas across the Alps and the valley far below. It can be taken from late Spring through early Fall. If the weather should turn bad be content to know that one of the world's best art museums is in Vaduz, so your day will not be a loss."

"FOOD AND DRINK"

"At the top of your walk, in the tiny village of Masescha and just in time for lunch, there is a good restaurant with both indoor and outdoor tables overlooking the Rhine Valley. Here, at a moderate price, you can get anything from a snack to a full meal. Go easy on the drinking, though, as the trail beyond this has a few treacherous spots."

"Back in Vaduz, there are several outdoor cafés on the main street that are quite charming. A good reward for your walking effort would be a glass or two of the deceptively light Vaduzer red wine, which resembles a rosé but packs a punch."

"WHAT TO BRING"

"First, a little experience in trail walking by at least one member of your party is recommended. Sturdy shoes are absolutely necessary. Bring along a light jacket or sweater for changing weather conditions. A bottle of water, fruit juice or soft drink would be very welcome. Finally, a camera and a pair of binoculars will greatly enhance your enjoyment of the trip."

"THE WALK"

"We begin by taking a bus over the steepest uphill climb, saving our energies for the more picturesque part of the trip. After checking the return schedules at the Tourist Information Office across the street from the Vaduz Bus Terminal (1), board the 10:40 AM local bus to Triesenberg, a distance of four miles, mostly up. Here your walk begins."

"At the bus stop in Triesenberg (2), an ancient Walser settlement and a popular resort, take the secondary road to the left toward Rotenboden. This follows a ridge overlooking the vast Rhine Valley landscape far below and is a relatively level walk. Once at Rotenboden (3), however, the road climbs to the right. There is virtually no traffic on this road, which crosses beautiful farmland. After a short while you will pass a stream with a waterfall to the left. Beyond this a footpath leads to the left and is marked for Masescha. Take this forest trail uphill until it again rejoins the paved road just before Masescha. In the winter this is a ski trail; the rest of the year it serves as a tractor path for the local farms."

"Arriving at Masescha (4) (photo, left), you will have climbed 1,160 feet since you left the bus at Triesenberg and are 2,560 feet above Vaduz and the Rhine Valley. Relax — from here on it's all downhill. But first have some lunch since the restaurant here is the only chance you will have to eat before ending up in Vaduz three hours later. Masescha is the oldest community of Walser settlers and has a small but interesting 14th-century church near the restaurant."

"Just beyond this, at a bend in the road, the trail takes off to the left. It is marked Vaduz Über Wildschloss (2¼ hours). After passing some farm buildings, the trail becomes a path going through an idyllic forest. Later, it opens again into farmland at the tiny settlement of Profatscheng (5), just beyond which you will come to a fork in the trail. Take the path marked Ruine Wildschloss & Vaduz to the right. This soon becomes a rough pathway in deep woods. There is another marked fork; again follow towards Ruine Wildschloss. The narrow path descends rapidly through the dense forest with occasional clearings providing beautiful views of the surrounding mountains. It then becomes a dirt logging road, which leads to the romantic ruin of an ancient fortress, Wildschloss (6)."

"Climb around the remaining walls and then continue on the dirt road to an intersection. Here take the fork to the left marked SCHLOSS VADUZ. you will pass a primitive animal feeding station on the right. When you come to a paved road turn to the right and walk downhill to Schloss Vaduz (7) (photo, right), the Royal Castle of the reigning prince. Built at least 700 years ago and added to throughout the centuries, it now houses, besides the royal family, the largest private art collection in the world. Unfortunately, it is not open to the public although its treasures are exhibited in the downtown art museum on a rotating basis."

"Beyond the castle a path to the left of the road leads down into the town of Vaduz. Where it joins the main street there are several outdoor cafés at which you can rest and reward yourself with a glass of the famous Vaduzer wine before taking leave of this improbable nation and returning to Zürich."

Copyright © 1978 Earl Steinbicker.

Although some 30 years old, this information remains basically valid today, with certain changes. CHECK FIRST before making the trip. A good source of current information about Liechtenstein is at W: tourismus.li. For current train schedules from Zürich visit W: sbb.ch.

 

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Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Germany

Here's another chapter from my recent guidebook, Daytrips Bavaria. This one ties in nicely with two others already posted on this blog that describe Little Adventures atop Germany's highest mountain and a nearby musical town on the Austrian border.

Trip 6

Garmisch-Partenkirchen

It was the Winter Olympics of 1936 that made Garmisch-Partenkirchen famous. Formerly two separate resort towns, they were merged for that event and have shared the unwieldy name ever since. Neatly split down the middle by the Partnach stream, with Garmisch to the west and Partenkirchen — once the Roman settlement of Parthanum — to the east, the combined entity has become Germany's leading center for winter sports. Today, most people just call it "Garmisch," as will this book.

Mountains are what Garmisch is all about. The town lies in a broad, flat valley at the foot of the higest peak in Germany, the Zugspitze, and is surrounded on all sides by towering Alps, whose bases literally run right into the village streets. Despite immense popularity, Garmisch remains remarkably unspoiled in its easygoing Bavarian manner.

By getting off to a very early start and cutting the tour short, it is possible to combine this trip in the same day with the one to the Zugspitze, covered in the next chapter. With its wide range of accommodations, the town also makes an excellent base for daytrips to Oberammergau, Mittenwald, or Füssen, all served by local buses.

GETTING THERE:

Trains depart Munich's main station hourly for the 90-minute trip to Garmisch-Partenkirchen, with return service until mid-evening.

By Car, Garmisch-Partenkirchen is 89 km (55 miles) south of Munich via the A-95 Autobahn and the B-2 road.

PRACTICALITIES:

The resort is open all year round, but the Partnachklamm may be closed after a heavy snow or spring melt. Those making this walk should be prepared to get a trifle wet, and need suitable shoes. They might also want to bring along a folding umbrella and a small flashlight. The mountains can be chilly, even in summer. The local Tourist Information Office(Verkehrsamt)T: (08821) 180-700, W: garmisch-partenkirchen.de, is at Richard-Strauss-Platz 2, in the center of Garmisch near the casino. Garmisch has a population of about 27,000.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Some good restaurants are:

Reindl's Restaurant of the Partenkirchner Hof (Bahnhofstr. 15, 2 blocks east of the station) Well known for its international European cuisine. Dress up and reserve, T: (08821) 943-870. X: mid-Nov. to mid-Dec. €€€

Mühlenstube (Hotel Obermühle, 4 blocks west of the casino) A dining room famous for its seafood. Reservations advised. T: (08821) 70-40. €€€

Gasthof Fraundorfer (ludwigstr. 24, near the Folk Museum) A rustic Bavarian inn, somewhat touristy but fun. T: (08821) 92-70. X: Tues., Wed. lunch. €€

Spago (Partnachstr. 50, 2 blocks northeast of the station) Modern Italian, Mediterranean, and International cuisine, with good-value lunch specials, all in a casual setting. T: (08821) 966-555. € and €€

Hofbräustüberl (Chamonixstr. 2, between the station and the tourist office) Meaty Bavarian dishes, indoors or out. T: (08821) 717-16. €

There are also several inexpensive, rustic places along the way to the Partnachklamm, and a pleasant café atop the Wank.

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Leave the Train Station (1) and follow the map along the Partnach stream to the Olympic Ski Stadium (2). Accommodating about 80,000 spectators, this gigantic outdoor structure was built by the Nazi regime as a showcase. Removing the swastikas did little to improve the architecture, but functionally it is still excellent and remains in use every winter. The outdated ski jump was demolished in April 2007 and will be replaced with a new one in 2008. Entry is free.

Follow the road leading away from town for an easy and pleasurable walk in the woods to the dramatic Partnachklamm, one of the most memorable sights in the Bavarian Alps. In about one mile, level all the way, you will come to the tiny Graseckbahn cable car (3). Ride this to its upper station, near which refreshments are available. Note that it is also possible to enter the Partnachklamm from this lower level without using the cable car.

Cross the terrace and continue along a trail with spectacular views, then descend a steep path to the upper end of the *Partnachklamm (4). This wildly romantic gorge, only a few feet wide but up to 263 feet deep, is filled with torrents of rushing white water. A narrow footpath with guardrails has been carved from the sheer rock sides, at times tunneling through impossible passages. You'll get a little wet, but that's a small price to pay for such a breathtaking experience. Closed during spring melt and in heavy snow. €.

Leaving the gorge will put you back on the forest road to the Olympic Ski Stadium. Return there and either walk or take a bus to the Werdenfels Folk Museum(Heimatmuseum) (5) on Ludwigstrasse, where you can see an exhibition of mountain life in olden times. T: (08821) 21-34. Open Tues.-Fri., 10-1 and 3-6; weekends 10-1. €.

Now follow the map to the early-18th-century Pilgrimage Church of St. Anton (6), going past some remarkable Stations of the Cross along the hilly path. The interior of this chapel, with its frescoed oval dome and elaborate plaster work, is quite attractive and well worth the climb. On the way in you will pass a touching display of plaques, some with photographs, in memory of local sons who never returned from the last two wars.

The Philosophenweg, a trail with stunning views of the Alps, leads to the Schützenhaus. From there take a steep but short footpath to the lower station of the Wankbahn cable car (7). Board one of the small cabins for a lift up the mountain, but don't get off at the first stop. Stay on all the way to the Wank Summit (8) for the most glorious panorama possible of the Zugspitze and the Wetterstein range towering over a toy-like Garmisch, safely nestled in its valley below. There is a sunny outdoor café to help you enjoy the scene even more. T: (08821) 797-979. Operates daily 9-5, closed in winter except Christmas to New Year's Day. Summer season begins late April. Roundtrip fare: €€€.

There are several easy trails of about one mile along the ridge, offering great views and a chance for a nice walk.

At 5,850 feet, the summit is a center for the thrilling sport of hang gliding. This is a fast way down for some brave souls, but you will probably prefer to return on the cable car.

Leave the lower station and follow the map through Partenkirchen and into Garmisch. A path along the Garmisch stream brings you to the Kurpark, from which it is a short stroll to the Old Church(Alte Kirche) (9). Located in a picturesque district, its origins may predate the spread of Christianity into this area. Or at least according to local tradition. Some of the mural paintings date as far back as the 13th century. The church itself was originally Romanesque, but later rebuilt in the Gothic style.

Take a look down Frühlingstrasse, a colorful street of quaint chalets. Straight ahead, at Zoeppritzstrasse 42, is the villa of the composer Richard Strauss, who died in Garmisch in 1949.

Along the way back to the station, you might want to stop at the Casino(Spielbank) (10) for a fling with Lady Luck, where games of roulette, blackjack, and poker begin at 3 p.m. For the less wealthy there are slot machines, and you don't even have to dress up. Alternatively, visit the Olympic Ice Sports Center (11), which seats 12,000 spectators under one roof and is the largest in Europe. Close to this and adjacent to the train station is the Zugspitz Bahnhof (12), from which private cog-wheel trains depart for an excursion up the Zugspitze Mountain by train and cable car, as described in the next chapter.

Copyright © 2007 by Earl Steinbicker. Color added to map for web use. Color photos courtesy of Garmisch-Partenkirchen Tourist Office.

 

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France's Var Valley

In each of my Daytrips guidebooks I include a few really offbeat destinations that you probably won't find in other guides. This is because I like strange experiences. One of these, taken from the Sixth Edition of Daytrips France, describes a journey by narrow-gauge train from Nice up into the lower reaches of the Alps.

Trip 48

Var Valley

Little known to foreign visitors, the narrow-gauge rail line through the Var Valley offers a magnificent visual treat coupled with an exciting ride. The private railway, properly known as the Chemins de Fer de la Provence, operates along a spectacular mountain route in the lower Alps netween Nice and Digne. The same trip can also be made by car.

GETTING THERE:

Trains of the private railway depart from the Gare de Nice CP, just a few blocks north of the main station, T: 04-9703-8080. It is necessary to get to the station by 8:30 a.m. if you plan to make a whole day of it. Be sure to pick up a current schedule to determine which stops can be made — and for how long. Schedules are also available at the main Nice station, and also online.

On some days during the summer a steam train with antique cars is used on one or more runs on part of the route between Puget-Théniers and Annot. A premium charge is made for this. Ask at the Nice station or online for details.

By Car, you can cover most of the same route by following the N-202 north from the Nice Airport. There are difficult mountain roads between Scaffarels and St.-André-les-Alpes, but these can be bypassed by sticking to the N-202. The end of the route, St.-André-les-Alpes, is about 120 km (74 miles) northwest of Nice.

PRACTICALITIES:

Trains operate all year round, although on a reduced schedule in winter. The Tourist Office in Entrevaux, T: 04-9305-4673, is inside the town gate. The phone number in Nice for the Provence Railway is T: 04-9703-8080.

FOOD AND DRINK:

There are simple restaurants and cafés at each of the stops. Some of the better choices are:

Le Vauban (Place Marceau, Entrevaux) Specialties of Provence indoors or out on a terrace with great views. X: Sun. eve., Mon. T: 04-9305-4240. €€ and €€€

De l'Avenue (in the village of Annot) A small country inn with meals. X: Nov. through March. T: 04-9283-2207. € and €€

L'Amandier (N-202 at the station in Puget-Théniers) A great value, and convenient. X: Sun. eve., Mon., Nov. T: 0409305-0513. €

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers on parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Board the train in Nice (1) and ride it all the way to St.-André-les-Alpes (2), a trip of about 2½ hours, or 120 km (74 miles). Along the way you will climb through narrow gorges to an elevation of 3,353 feet, then begin a short descent to the pleasant little mountain resort (photo, below). This is a fine place for a delightful country lunch, or you may decide to take the next train back to Annot or Entrevaux and eat there, depending on the schedule.

 

The wonderfully picturesque old town of Annot (3), founded in the 12th century, is another excellent place to have lunch. If you do stop there, be sure to check the schedule so you don't miss out on seeing Entrevaux.

The most visually exciting town along this route is Entrevaux (4), an ancient walled fortress approached via a drawbridge over the Var stream (photo, above). Once a frontier between France and the Kingdom of Savoy, its present ramparts were built in 1695 by Vauban, Louis XIV's great military engineer. Wander through the unspoiled passageways to the 12th- and 17th-century former Cathedral, known for its richly-decorated interior. Perched high above the village is the mighty Citadelle — a castle (photo, left) that may be visited in summer by asking at the tourist office (Bureau d'Accueil). There is also an interesting small museum of about 70 motorcycles dating from 1901 to 1965 in the village. T: 04-9305-4078. Open Apr.-Sept.

If time permits, you may want to make a stop at Puget-Théniers (5) before returning to Nice. This lovely old town, dominated by the ruins of an ancient castle, has a fine 13th-century church and an attractive square. It is also a well-known center for steam-train activities.

Text, map, and B&W photos copyright © 2005 by Earl Steinbicker, updated to 2007.

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