Life's Little Adventures

LUTHERSTADT WITTENBERG, GERMANY

Here's a free sample chapter from my new travel guidebook, Daytrips Berlin and Northern Germany. 

Trip 11

Lutherstadt Wittenberg

Wittenberg is famous for only one thing, and that one thing draws visitors by the thousands from all over the world. From 1508 to 1546 it was the home of Martin Luther — the place where he taught, where he preached, where he defied the church, and where he allegedly nailed those 95 theses to the castle door. So much does his memory dominate this small town in Saxony-Anhalt that its official name is actually "Lutherstadt Wittenberg." Not even the atheistic communist regime of East Germany was able to eradicate his influence; in fact they more or less adopted him as a "hero of the common folk."

Wittenberg began as a fortress around 1130, and achieved town status in 1293. Its university was formed in 1502, becoming a center of European intellectual life during the time of Martin Luther and Philipp Melanchthon, but later merged with nearby Halle University as Wittenberg increasingly became a backwater place. Today, its historic core is a beautifully preserved bit of the past attracting a great many tourists and church groups, while the newer sections have been prospering since reunification.

GETTING THERE:

Trains of the IC and ICE classes leave Berlin's Hauptbahnhof Station at about one-hour intervals for the 40-minute run to Lutherstadt Wittenberg, with return until mid-evening. There are also slower (and cheaper) trains of the RE class that take a bit over an hour.

By Car, Wittenberg lies about 108 km (67 miles) southwest of Berlin. Take the A-9 (E-51) Autobahn south to Coswig, then the B-187 east. Park as close to Lutherhalle as possible.

PRACTICALITIES:

Some sights are closed on Mondays between November and March. The Tourist Information Office (Wittenberg-Information), T: (03491) 498-610, W: wittenberg.de, is at Schlossplatz 2. Wittenberg has a population of about 47,000.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Heavily touristed Wittenberg abounds in places to eat. Here are a few good choices:

Schlosskeller (Schlossplatz 1, behind the Schlosskirche) Dining in a cavernous cellar deep below the ancient castle, very atmospheric and tasty. T: (03491) 480-805. €€

Brauhaus (Markt 6, on the Market Place) Local dishes and freshly-brewed beer, indoors or out. T: (03491) 433-130. € and €€

Kartoffelhaus (Schlossstrasse 2, near the Market Place) Serves a variety of tasty potato-based dishes. T: (03491) 411-200. €

Click on map to enlarge

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Those coming by rail will begin at the train station (Bahnhof Lutherstadt Wittenberg) (1), located outside the town proper but within walking distance. Just beyond the railroad underpass, on the right, stands the so-called Luther Oak (Luthereiche) (2). Planted in the 19th century, it commemorates Luther's public burning of the Bull of Excommunication on December 10th, 1520. Although this action is historically documented, its exact location is not, so the tree may or may not be in the right place.

Stroll a few yards up Collegienstrasse to the:

*LUTHERHALLE (3), T: (03491) 420-30, W: martinluther.de. Open April-Oct., daily 9-6; Nov.-March, Tues.-Sun. 10-5. €.

This is the former Augustinian monastery (photo, above) in which Luther lived in 1508 and from 1511 until his death in 1546. Although the monastery was closed in 1522, Luther continued to reside here (with his wife and family since 1525), and in 1532 the building was given to him as a present. His heirs sold it to the University in 1546, who used it until 1816, after which it housed a theological training college and later a free school for the poor. Since 1883 the structure has been occupied by the Museum for the History of the Reformation (Reformationsgeschichtliches Museum). Luther's living quarters have been preserved, and there are numerous artifacts relating to him. Among the treasures are paintings by Lucas Cranach the Elder (portrait of Luther, above) and other artists of the German Renaissance, early Bibles, exhibits devoted to Luther's monumental translation of the Bible into German, and much documentary evidence of the turmoil he created.

A few yards up Collegienstrasse stands the:

MELANCHTHONHAUS (4), T: (03491) 403-279, W: martinluther.de. Open April-Oct., daily 9-6; Nov.-March, Tues.-Sun. 10-5. €.

Luther's closest colleague Philipp Melanchthon lived here from 1536 until his death in 1560. His actual family name was Schwarzend, but he adopted the Greek translation of that when he became a professor of Greek at Wittenberg in 1519. Melanchthon's influence on the Reformation was considerable as he was a far more tolerant man than Luther, able to reconcile differences between factions and bring about a measure of Christian unity. The house, given to him as a gift by the local ruler, is quite handsome and today houses both memorabilia of his life and a small museum of local history.

Follow the map to the Town Church (Stadtkirche St. Marien) (5) (photo, above), a triple-aisle Gothic structure begun around 1280 and modified over the years. Martin Luther preached here frequently, and it was here that he was wed and had his children baptized. His marriage, in 1525, was quite a daring act for a monk, especially as his bride was a nun. The most striking item in the church is its *Reformation Altarpiece, an unusual triptych by Lucas Cranach the Elder, the famous artist and friend of Luther. The center panel of this masterpiece depicts the Last Supper, with Jesus and the twelve apostles seated around a circular table, portraying Luther as the twelfth disciple. The bottom panel shows Luther preaching from a pulpit, with the crucified Christ in front of him.

Continue on to the nearby Market Place (Markt) (6) (photo, above), a large open square fronted by the impressive 16th-century Town Hall (Rathaus). Inside, there is an exhibition of 20th-century biblical art by such talents as Picasso, Chagal, and Beckmann. Open Tues.-Sun. 10-5. €.

In front of this are two large, canopied statues — one of Luther and the other of Melanchthon. Leading off from the south side, at Schlossstrasse 1, is the home of the artist Lucas Cranach the Elder, who was also the mayor of Wittenberg. Stroll down into the courtyard (7), where Cranach had his workshop and apothecary.

Schlossstrasse leads to the Palace Church (Schlosskirche) (8), one of the few remaining parts of the former palace complex. It was to the door here that Martin Luther supposedly nailed his famous 95 Theses condemning the doctrine of indulgences on October 31, 1517. Whether this actually happened is uncertain, but the original door has long been replaced with a bronze one inscribed with the full text in Latin. The church, the site of the first Protestant service ever, also contains the tombs of both Luther and Melanchthon. The church tower, 288 feet high, is topped with a crown-shaped dome under which is inscribed the opening words of that famous Lutheran hymn, A Mighty Fortress is Our God. It may be climbed for a good view, should you have the energy left. T: (03491) 402-585. Church open daily 10-6. Free. Tower open Mon.-Fri., noon-4; weekends 10-5. €.

Behind the Palace Church stand what remains of the once-great palace, built at the beginning of the 16th century. In its courtyard is another attraction, the Schlosskeller, a colorful cellar restaurant where you can stop for a drink or a meal before heading back to the station.

Copyright © 2008 by Earl Steinbicker.

 

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Pennsylvania's Amish Countryside

A Daytrip Into The Distant Past

Usually I write about Daytrips in Europe, but this time I've selected one right here in my own backyard. Well, almost — it's about a 60-mile drive from my home. This is a really relaxing, laid-back tour through pastoral countryside, just an hour's journey from Philadelphia. Along the way you'll meet some truly fascinating folks and experience a bit of an unusual life style.

This self-guided trip was taken directly from the pages of my guidebook on this region, but updated with color added. It can also be done by bicycle. Don't forget to bring along a hearty appetite!

CLICK below to check out the book on Amazon.com:

Daytrips Pennsylvania Dutch Country & Philadelphia: 50 One-Day Adventures from the Philadelphia and Lancaster Areas (Daytrips Pennsylvania Dutch Country and Philadelphia)

This is a cow

Heart of the Amish Countryside

Click on underlined items for links to their websites.

From the sublimely bucolic to the ridiculously tacky, this drive covers a wide, wide range of Pennsylvania Dutch Country experiences — all within a short distance of Lancaster, and completely feasible as a daytrip from Philadelphia. Along the way you'll encounter some of the most gorgeous scenery in the world, which more than compensates for the patches of shameless tourist traps near the beginning and end. Even scattered among these lurk some real gems that are just too good to miss.

Relax, take it easy, and drive slow. There are quite a few attractions along the way, but none as important as the setting itself. Why not pull over to the side of the road and take a walk along country lanes, drinking in the delicious sights and exchanging greetings with the friendly folks you'll meet? And for that matter, why stick to the suggested route? Driving down some of the side roads may lead to serendipitous discoveries — especially north of Route PA-340. For the physically ambitious, this trip makes a wonderful bicycle excursion. The terrain is rolling, with a few moderate hills, and for the most part traffic is light.

GETTING THERE:

The starting point of this 25-mile-long scenic drive is about 11 miles southeast of Lancaster, along US-30 just east of Paradise. From Philadelphia, take US-30 west for about 58 miles, expecting congestion in the last few miles around Gap and Kinzers.

PRACTICALITIES:

Good weather is absolutely essential for this largely outdoor trip. Weekdays are preferred, as you'll encounter less traffic in the tourist areas. Several of the best attractions are closed on Sundays, and many in the off-season. Check the individual listings, remembering that the drive itself is the main attraction.

You may well encounter more horse-drawn buggies and farm vehicles than cars, so drive slowly and very, very carefully. Passing on the narrow roads should be done with great caution, being careful not to "spook" the horses by blowing your horn.

Taking photographs of Amish people in which they can be recognized is a violation of their religious beliefs concerning graven images, and is highly offensive. Please respect their privacy and avoid trespassing on their land.

Regional information is available from the Pennsylvania Dutch Convention & Visitors Bureau, just east of Lancaster at 501 Greenfield Road (at US-30), Lancaster, PA 17601, T: 717-299-8901 or 1-800-723-8824.

FOOD AND DRINK:

Pennsylvania Dutch cuisine means hearty servings of "comfort" foods like your great-grandmother used to make, often in large restaurants with communal seating and frequently no menus. This "family style" dining is just that — you sit with strangers, pass around the overflowing dishes, take all you want of whatever you want, and generally have a good time. Some establishments offer buffet or à la carte service at private tables instead. Be sure to try the shoofly pie — "chust this once." Most restaurants do not serve liquor, and some are closed on Sundays. Among the better choices are:

Plain & Fancy Farm (PA-340, 2 miles east of Bird-in-Hand) Fixed-price PA-Dutch meals served family-style in a large barn. Reduced prices for children. No menu. Reservations suggested, T: 717-768-4400. $$

Good "N" Plenty (PA-896, a half-mile south of PA-340, at Smoketown) An enormous family-style restaurant with copious servings of PA-Dutch favorites. Reduced prices for children. T: 717-394-7111. X: Sun. $$

Miller's Smorgasbord (US-30, east of the intersection with N. Ronks Rd.) A fixed-price buffet with all you can eat. Special prices for children. In business since 1929. Reservations are accepted, T: 717-687-6621. $$

Bird-in-Hand Family Restaurant (PA-30 near Ronks Rd., Bird-in-Hand) PA-Dutch home cooking from both smorgasbord and menu, with a kid's buffet in the shape of Noah's Ark. X: Sun. T: 717-768-1500. $

For something different, you might try the restaurants in nearby Strasburg.

SUGGESTED TOUR:

Numbers in parentheses correspond to numbers on the map.

Where better to begin your trip than in Paradise (1)? Head about a mile east along US-30 from this small town, and turn north on Belmont Road. Suddenly, in just yards, all of the traffic and tourist traps disappear and you're out in the real countryside. Soon you'll come to Paradise Bridge (2), a delightful covered bridge built in 1893, also known as the Leaman Place or Eshelman's Mill Bridge. Before crossing it, pull over to the side of the road, get out, and wait for the first horse-drawn buggy to come along. You won't have to wait long. What an idyllic scene!

Ahead lies the village of Intercourse (3), whose curious name raises a few eyebrows — especially as the road from it leads to Paradise. Actually, its name probably refers to its location at the junction of what in the early 19th century were two main highways. In the mid-1950s an attempt was made to change the name, and a decade later a pornorgraphy publisher attempted to use it as a mailing address. Fortunately, both schemes failed. Once a delightful Amish settlement, Intercourse is today overrun with quaint gifte shoppes, but it does have at least one place of compelling interest, namely:

THE OLD COUNTRY STORE, Route 340, Intercourse, PA 17534, T: 1-800-828-8218. Open Mon.-Sat., 9-5, remaining open until 6:30 from June-Oct. Closed Sun., New Year's, Thanksgiving, Christmas. Free. Book shop. Craft shop.

You might want to visit this historic country store for two reasons. First, to shop for genuine local items created by Amish and Mennonite craftspersons, and second to visit the free People's Place Quilt Museum on the second floor. Here you can examine changing exhibitions of unique Amish and Mennonite quilts, mostly dating from the 19th and early 20th centuries. The store itself was established in 1833 and rebuilt in 1881 after a disastrous fire. Be sure to stroll the outdoor Story Walk on the west side of the building, which explains local history.

Poke around the other shops of Intercourse, then head north on PA-772 (Newport Road), following the map and occasionally making diversions from it as the mood strikes you. Continue north on Hess Road, turning left on East Eby Road. Here, on the right, you'll come to an old Amish Cemetery (4), whose gravestones can be read by peering over the fence. Turn right (south) on Stumptown Road, which soon brings you to the utterly delightful little hamlet of Mascot (5).

Right at the intersection, a dam backs up the water of Mill Creek to provide water power for the local mill, as Amish lads fish in the stream. There's even a free place to park here, and not a commercial establishment in sight. But there are two marvelous free attractions:

*MASCOT ROLLER MILLS, Ronks, PA, T: 717-656-7616. Open May-Oct., Mon.-Sat. 9-4. Free.

Almost too picturesque to believe, the old Mascot Mill was built of stone in 1760 and continued operations until 1977. It was owned by three generations of the Ressler family from 1864 until the retirement of W. Franklin Ressler, who with his sister created the Ressler Mill Foundation to preserve this rural heritage for all time. A large enough endowment was left to pay for restoration, maintenance, and guides — which is why everything here is free. Stop in, watch the video, enjoy a demonstration of the working machinery, and examine the colorful old Mascot Post Office, unchanged since 1934.

The *Ressler Family House, next door to the mill, is equally intriguing, and is also open to visitors as part of the same foundation. It, too, is miraculously free. Everything here is as it was; simple, practical, and well-loved by the many generations of the same family. Be sure to take the tour as this is the kind of place that's all too seldom encountered.

Continue west on Stumptown Road, making a left onto Gibbons Road at an especially attractive farm, and another left onto Beechdale Road. In about a half-mile, turn left again on Church Road, and left yet again on Weavertown Road. Finally, a right onto North Harvest Road brings you to the Old Philadelphia Pike, PA-340. To the left is the:

AMISH EXPERIENCE THEATER & AMISH COUNTRY HOMESTEAD (6), 3121 Old Philadelphia Pike, Bird-in-Hand, PA 17505, T: 717-768-3600. Open daily April-Nov., weekends Dec.-March, closed Thanksgiving and Christmas. Theater open daily April-Dec., weekends Jan.-March. Homestead: Adults $7.95, children (4-12) $4.95. Theater: Adults $8.95, children (4-12) $5.95. Bargain combo tickets available.

Here visitors can discover how the Old Order Amish live today, without electricity but with surprising adaptations to contemporary life. The replica Homestead is authentically furnished, and affords a glimpse into a world you could hardly penetrate otherwise. The adjacent Amish Experience Theater tells the story of these remarkable people through the medium of a 30-minute multimedia production, intermingled with the drama of a modern Amish teenager's quest to discover himself.

Bird-in-Hand (7), which got its name from the sign of an early inn, is the next village. Just west of it is Abe's Buggy Rides (8), a concession that has been offering short two-mile rides in Amish horse-drawn buggies for over 35 years. T: 717-392-1794. Open Mon.-Sat., 8-dusk. Adults $10, children (3-12) $5.

Continue west, turning south on Oakview Road. Make a left onto US-30, a congested highway lined with outlet shops, fast-food eateries, strip malls, tourist traps of the worst kind, and — incredibly — on the right, the Mennonite Information Center (9), where you can learn more about the Amish and Mennonite ways of life. The center also offers a short film about the Mennonites, and tour guides who can lead you (in your car) to many out-of-the-way places not spoiled by commercialism. Adjacent to the center is the Hebrew Tabernacle Reproduction, an actual-size model of the ancient Tabernacle of Jerusalem described in the Bible, including the *Ark of the Covenant. 2209 Mill Stream Rd., Lancaster, PA 17602, T: 717-299-0954. Open April-Oct., Mon.-Sat. 8-5; Nov.-March, Mon.-Sat. 8:30-4:30. Center free, tabernacle tours: Adults $6, seniors $5.50, children (7-12) $3.50. Tour guides $36 for 2 hours, each additional hour $12, reservations T: 1-800-858-8320.

Down the road is the Dutch Wonderland Amusement Park (10), where the kids can have fun after all this sightseeing. Continuing east on US-30 brings you to a final attraction, the:

AMISH FARM AND HOUSE (11), 2395 Lincoln Hwy. East (US-30), Lancaster, PA 17602, T: 717-394-6185. Open daily all year, 8:30-6 in summer, until 5 in spring and fall, closing at 4 in winter. Closed Christmas. Adults $7.25, seniors (60+) $6.50, children (5-11) $4.75. Gift shop. Snacks.

You won't meet any Amish at this commercial attraction, but otherwise it's a quite authentic presentation of their rural ways of life. Visits begin with a lecture and tour of the 10-room farmhouse, built around 1805 and simply furnished in the Old-Order Amish tradition. You can then explore the 25-acre farm with its barn, windmill, waterwheels, spring house, chicken coop, corn crib, lime kiln, blacksmith shop, and more. Live animals and growing crops add to the interest, as does the small museum.

Copyright © 2000 by Earl Steinbicker, updated in 2007, slightly modified for web use and with color added.

 

Interested in photography? Check out my "Assisting Avedon" blog.

SO, just what Little Adventure am I up to now in 2013? Why, just the most challenging one of them all! CLICK HERE TO FIND OUT.

 

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More Adventures in Israel

ON TO JERUSALEM

In my last post on this thread (CLICK HERE TO VIEW), I had just finished a week in Tel Aviv. Now for the biggie.

Thirty-nine miles and a few thousand years separate secular Tel Aviv from pious Jerusalem. Now it's time to make that journey. Thursday, January 30, 1992. It's raining. And cold. Not wanting to wait for a bus, and feeling flush, I took a taxi the whole distance. The road is straight, hemmed in on both sides by the Palestinian West Bank, and goes steadily uphill as it climbs from sea level into the mountains.

Since it was the middle of winter, hardly tourist season, I didn't bother with making a hotel reservation. Big mistake. How was I to know about the worldwide medical convention in town? After several attempts to find a room, I took out my list of all hotels and started calling ones in Arab East Jerusalem. Luck was with me — the Hotel Alcazar had a room, in fact they had many rooms. A nice, big room with bath for only 30 dollars a day, including breakfast! Very nice people, too. They couldn't do enough for me. And it was within easy walking distance of the walled Old City.

Sacred to the three great monotheistic religions, Jerusalem is the repository of some 3,000 years of turbulent history — a cultural cauldron still bubbling away. Ironically, this world center of spirituality is also the focus of ancient animosities that remain unresolved to this day, but that's what makes this such a vibrant, dynamic place. You may love it or hate it, but you can only gain by sampling its infinite experiences. A successful visit here can well be one of the highlights of your life.

The photo above is of the Damascus Gate, one of several entrances into the walled Old City.

The first two days were spent exploring the Old City. On foot, of course. The "streets" here are extremely narrow and often stepped. I entered through the Jaffa Gate, next to the Citadel built in 24 BC for Herod the Great, then strolled through the quiet Armenian Quarter and into the more lively Jewish Quarter. This is home to the Western Wall, often called the Wailing Wall, which is all that remains of the ancient Temple Mount. Male visitors here must wear a yarmulka (provided free) and go to the shady mens' section (women use the sunny section). Immediately overlooking this is the Muslim-controlled Temple Mount itself, home to the Dome of the Rock, built in AD 691 on the spot where Muhammad took off on his Night Journey to Heaven. The third-holiest place in Islam, this was also where Abraham came to sacrifice his son, and where the ancient Jewish Temple stood.

From here I wandered into the crowded Muslim Quarter, and walked the length of the Via Dolorosa past various Stations of the Cross and into the Christian Quarter. The historic route ends in the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, supposedly the very spot (photo, left) where Jesus was crucified and buried. Actually, some Christians believe that the Crucifixion and Burial took place elsewhere, in the Protestant Garden Tomb in nearby East Jerusalem — a very quiet and contemplative place.

Other highlights in the city included the Mount of Olives, the Garden of Gethsemane, and the extremely orthodox Mea She'arim neighborhood where visitors must dress and behave according to their rules (click on the photo, right, to enlarge and read these clearly). In the Western New City lies the Knesset (Parliament) and the Shrine of the Book, a modern cave-like structure (photo, below) where visitors can come face-to-face with the Dead Sea Scrolls.

I took a bus ride outside the city proper to the most eloquent and moving of all Holocaust museums, Yad Va'shem. Then it was off to Bethlehem, which although only six miles from Jerusalem is an Arab town in the West Bank. The sole attraction here is of course the Church of the Nativity, built in AD 531 on the supposed spot of Jesus' birth. The exact location of the manger was determined in AD 325 by the Roman empress Helena, mother of Constantine the Great. This is now the Altar of the Manger (photo, left) in the Grotto of the nativity.

Did I mention that it was cold? On February 4th we were hit by a wicked snow storm (photo above). So I made daytrips to warmer climes, namely the Dead Sea at Ein Gedi and that cornerstone of Israeli national identity, Masada. The Dead Sea is the lowest spot on Earth, and Masada more than 1,400 feet above it in a sheer vertical climb. This was the luxurious refuge of King Herod the Great, a spot to which he could flee in the event of an uprising. The Jews of Palestine revolted against oppressive Roman rule in AD 66 and were defeated. Some of them, called the Zealots, escaped and took over the mountain refuge, holding out there until the Romans finally trapped them in AD 72. According to legend, they chose to commit collective suicide rather than become slaves. The photo on the right is of Herod's Palace, or what's left of it. The mountains in the background are in Jordan.

NEXT, the scene moves to Haifa, my favorite Israeli city.

The guidebook I wrote from these experiences, Daytrips Israel, went through two editions (1993 and 1996) before increasing terrorism made do-it-yourself travel less attractive and effectively killed the market for it. Maybe someday there can be a third edition.

 

Interested in photography? Check out my "Assisting Avedon" blog.

 

SO, just what Little Adventure am I up to now in 2013? Why, just the most challenging one of them all! CLICK HERE TO FIND OUT.

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CHECK OUT Daytrips Israel by clicking on its name in the box below, or on the Buy button to purchase: